WO2019243507A1 - Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d'oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane et un polymere cellulosique associatif - Google Patents
Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d'oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane et un polymere cellulosique associatif Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/415—Aminophenols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
- A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/548—Associative polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the field of dyeing of keratin fibers and more particularly to that of hair dyeing.
- this mode of coloring implements one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.
- oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, allow access to colored species.
- the nuances obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by associating them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
- the oxidation dyeing processes therefore consist in using with these dye compositions, a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, in general hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
- This oxidizing agent has the role of revealing the coloring, by a reaction of oxidative condensation of the oxidation dyes between them.
- Oxidation staining must also meet a number of requirements. Thus, it must be without drawbacks from the toxicological point of view, it must make it possible to obtain nuances in the desired intensity and have good resistance to external aggressions such as light, bad weather, washing, permanent undulations, the sweating and rubbing.
- the coloring process must also make it possible to cover gray hair, and finally be the least selective possible, that is to say allow to obtain the smallest possible color differences all along the same keratin fiber, which generally comprises zones that are differently sensitized (that is to say damaged) from its tip to its root, in order to obtain the most homogeneous coloration of the keratin fibers.
- the coloring compositions must also make it possible to confer good cosmetic properties on keratin fibers, in particular care, softness and / or discipline, have good qualities of use, in particular be easy to apply, while allowing achieve visible (i.e. intense, chromatic), consistent and tenacious color results.
- compositions used in a coloring process must, moreover, have good mixing and application properties on keratin fibers, and in particular good rheological properties so as not to run, when they are applied, on the face, the scalp, or outside the areas that it is proposed to dye, this allows in particular a homogeneous application from the roots to the tips.
- coloring compositions which are stable over time for several weeks.
- stable in the sense of the present invention is meant in particular that physical characteristics such as appearance, pH and / or viscosity vary little or even does not vary over time, in particular that the viscosity of the composition does not change or changes little during storage and / or that the composition does not phase during storage.
- the coloring compositions are stable over time, in particular stable after 1 month at 45 ° C., or even after 2 months at 45 ° C.
- coloring compositions can sometimes be destabilized (phase shifted) by high contents of certain compounds, and it is therefore desirable that these compositions are stable under these conditions, in particular which does not phase.
- composition (A) for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: - one or more oxidation dye (s);
- scleroglucan gum in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition;
- cellulose associative polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably nonionic.
- composition (A) comprising:
- scleroglucan gum in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition;
- one or more associative cellulosic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably nonionic;
- composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s).
- ready-to-use composition is meant within the meaning of the invention, any composition intended to be applied immediately to keratin fibers.
- the invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, implementing the application to the fibers of a coloring composition (A) as defined above, and of an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably from peroxide hydrogen, the oxidizing composition (B) being mixed with the coloring composition just before use (application to said fibers) (extemporaneously) or at the time of use, or else the coloring and oxidizing compositions being applied sequentially without intermediate rinsing.
- a coloring composition (A) as defined above
- an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably from peroxide hydrogen, the oxidizing composition (B) being mixed
- a subject of the invention is also a device (or “kit”) with several compartments allowing the use of the composition for coloring keratin fibers, preferably comprising at least two compartments, a first compartment containing the coloring composition (A) as defined above, and the second compartment containing at least one oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) hydrogen peroxide, preferably from hydrogen peroxide, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing; in particular the kit can be an aerosol device.
- kit can be an aerosol device.
- composition for coloring or by “coloring composition”
- composition for coloring is meant a composition intended to be applied to keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers and in particular the hair, optionally after mixing with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
- ready-to-use coloring composition or “ready-to-use composition” is meant a composition resulting from the mixture of a coloring composition and an oxidizing composition.
- the ready-to-use coloring composition can be prepared just before application to said keratin fibers.
- compositions according to the invention thus make it possible to lead to very good dyeing performance of keratin fibers, in particular in terms of rise, intensity, chromaticity and / or selectivity. They also make it possible to obtain compositions having good rheological properties so as not to run, during their application, on the face, the scalp, or outside the areas which it is proposed to dye.
- compositions according to the invention are stable.
- stable in the sense of the present invention is meant in particular that physical characteristics such as appearance, pH and / or viscosity vary little or even does not vary over time, in particular that the viscosity of the composition does not change or changes little during storage and / or that the composition does not phase during storage.
- it is desirable that the coloring compositions are stable over time, in particular stable after 1 month at 45 ° C., or even after 2 months at 45 ° C.
- compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being stable (do not phase shift) regardless of the pH and in particular with respect to extreme pH (for example at alkaline pH ranging from 9 to 12).
- compositions are preferably stable (do not phase shift) even in the presence of a high content of certain compounds, such as, for example, oxidation dyes and / or cationic compounds. , in particular cationic polymers
- compositions of the invention are advantageously translucent, which gives them an aesthetic and attractive visual appearance for the consumer and they have good application qualities (ease of spreading, elongation of the gel).
- the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, preferably the hair.
- composition according to the invention has a thickened texture, in the form of a cream or gel, preferably a gel, preferably it is translucent.
- the composition according to the invention generally exhibits at room temperature a viscosity greater than 50 cps, preferably between 200 and 100,000 cps, more preferably between 500 and 50,000 cps, and even more preferably between 800 to 10,000 cps, better still 1000 at 8000 cps measured at 25 ° C at a rotation speed of 200 rpm using a rheometer such as the rheomat RM 180 equipped with a mobile no.3 or 4, the measurement being carried out after 60 seconds of rotation of the mobile (time after which the viscosity and the speed of rotation of the mobile stabilize.
- a viscosity greater than 50 cps, preferably between 200 and 100,000 cps, more preferably between 500 and 50,000 cps, and even more preferably between 800 to 10,000 cps, better still 1000 at 8000 cps measured at 25 ° C at a rotation speed of 200 rpm using a rheometer such as the rheomat RM 180 equipped with a mobile no
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes.
- oxidation dye precursors which can be used in the present invention are generally chosen from oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more couplers.
- the oxidation bases can preferably be chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
- the oxidation base or bases of the invention are chosen from paraphenylenediamines and heterocyclic bases.
- paraphenylenediamines mention may be made, for example, of paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N- dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N -bis- (-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis
- paraphenylenediamine paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine,
- 2- -hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylene diamine 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine , 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl paraphenylenediamine and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
- para-aminophenol there may be mentioned by way of example, para-amino phenol, 4-amino-3-methyl phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino 2- (-hydroxyethyl aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
- para-amino phenol 4-amino-3-methyl phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-
- heterocyclic bases there may in particular be pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
- pyridine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5 diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3 amino pyridine, 3, 4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts.
- pyridine oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo- [1,5 a] -pyridine oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in patent application FR 2801308.
- pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine 2-acetylamino pyrazolo- [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-yl) - methanol; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-2-yl) -methanol
- oxidation bases according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo- [1,5 a] -pyridines preferably substituted in position 2 by:
- a heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 5 to 7 members, and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, cationic or not, optionally substituted with one or more (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl groups such as di (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylpiperazinium;
- pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88 169571; JP 05-63 124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4 hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine 2,4 dihydroxy 5, 6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5, 6 triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium.
- the heterocyclic oxidation bases of the invention are chosen from 4,5-diaminopyrazoles such as 4,5-diamino-1 - ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino - 1 - ⁇ -methoxyethyl) pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole will be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1 - (P-hydroxyethyl) -pyrazole and / or one of its salts.
- diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 , 7-dihydro- 1 H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-ajpyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro- l H, 5H- pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol - 1 -one, 2-amino-3 -isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro- l H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol- 1 -one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin- 1 -yl ) -6,7- dihydro- 1 H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol- 1 -one,
- heterocyclic bases use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-l - (-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H, 5H-pyrazolo [l, 2- a] pyrazol-l -one and / or a salt thereof.
- the oxidation base or bases used in the context of the invention are generally present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the coloring composition, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 5%.
- the additional couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers are preferably chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and also their addition salts.
- addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- the coupler (s) when they are present, are generally present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the coloring composition, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 5% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.
- the total content of oxidation dyes in the composition according to the invention is between 0.001 to 20% by weight; preferably between 0.001% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.01% and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- the composition of the invention comprises at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler.
- the composition (A) comprises one or more scleroglucan gums, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a Sclerotium-type fungus, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii. These are polysaccharides made up solely of glucose units.
- Scleroglucan gums can be modified or not. Preferably the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.
- scleroglucan gums which can be used in the present invention are, without limitation, the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and under the name AMIGUM or AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL.
- scleroglucan gums such as that treated with glyoxal described in French patent application No. 2,633,940, can also be used.
- the scleroglucan gum (s) which can be used according to the invention preferably represent from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight or even from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
- the oxidizing composition (B) comprises one or more scleroglucan gums, preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the scleroglucan gum (s) which can be used according to the invention preferably represent from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 , 5 to 3% by weight, even more preferably and even more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.7 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative cellulosic polymers.
- the associative cellulosic polymers according to the invention are cellulosic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and the molecules of which are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds.
- the fatty chain contains from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
- amphiphilic polymers that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic parts comprising at least one fatty chain by which the polymers interact and collect with each other or with other molecules.
- the associative cellulose polymers which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric associative polymers, and their mixtures.
- the associative cellulosic polymer (s) are nonionic.
- the associative polymer (s) is / are chosen (s) from nonionic associative polymers.
- the associative non-ionic cellulosic polymers are preferably chosen from:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably Cs-C 2 2, preferably such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (Ci 6 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,
- the associative cellulosic polymer or polymers are nonionic, and preferably chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain.
- the nonionic associative polymer or polymers are chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 -C22, and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether groups of alkyl phenol, and their mixtures, preferably cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.
- the associative polymer (s) is / are chosen from cationic associative cellulosic polymers.
- the cationic associative cellulose polymers are preferably chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives.
- cationic associative polymers there may be mentioned, alone or as a mixture:
- quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof ;
- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof ; iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):
- R and R ' identical or different, represent an ammonium group RaRbRcN + -, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C30 C 1 -C20, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; and
- n, x and y identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.
- the alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
- R represents the trimethylammonium halide and R 'represents the dimethyldodecylammonium halide more preferably R represents the trimethylammonium chloride Cl -, (CH3) 3N + - and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-, (CH3) 2 (C 12H25) N + -
- This type of polymer is known under the name INCI Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
- the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferably, the viscosity is inclusive between 2700 and 2800 cPs.
- SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs
- SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
- SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
- SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
- the cationic associative polymer (s) are preferably chosen from cationic polymers (B) derived from quaternized cellulose, particularly chosen from the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) and even better polyquaternium-67.
- the associative cellulose polymer (s), preferably nonionic, are present in the composition in a total weight content preferably between 0.01 and 10%, and even more preferably between 0.05 and 5% of the total weight of the composition, better between 0, 1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the coloring composition (A) according to the invention can advantageously comprise one or more carboxylic acids, and / or their addition salts and / or their solvates, said carboxylic acid (s) being aliphatic compounds, comprising from 2 to 10 atoms of carbon and preferably comprising at least two carboxylic groups.
- they are chosen from aliphatic dicarboxylic and / or tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
- carboxylic acid (s) is / are saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted.
- the carboxylic acids can be chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the carboxylic acid (s) comprise at least two carboxylic groups and are chosen from malonic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid and their mixtures; preferably selected from malonic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the carboxylic acid is citric acid.
- the total content of carboxylic acid (s) and / or their addition salts and / or their solvates preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) .
- the total content of carboxylic acid (s) varies from 0.1 to 20, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.
- the alkaline agent (s) (also called basifying agents) can be mineral, organic and / or hybrid.
- the alkaline agent (s) are chosen from among the mineral alkaline agent (s), preferably chosen from ammonia, also called ammonium hydroxide, (or ammonia precursors such as ammonium salts, for example ammonium halides and in particular ammonium chloride), silicates, phosphates, carbonates or bicarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, or mixtures thereof.
- ammonia also called ammonium hydroxide
- ammonia precursors such as ammonium salts, for example ammonium halides and in particular ammonium chloride
- silicates phosphates, carbonates or bicarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals
- the alkaline agent (s) are chosen from alkanolamines and / or amino acids.
- the alkaline agent (s) are chosen from alkanolamines.
- alkanolamine an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in C1 to C8 carrying one or more hydroxy radicals.
- organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, which may or may not be identical, at C1 to C4.
- the compounds of this type are preferably chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1, 2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l, 2-propanedio l, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane, and their mixtures, preferably monoethanolamine (MEA).
- MEA monoethanolamine
- the alkaline agent (s) are chosen from amino acids.
- amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.
- the alkaline agent (s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular arginine, metal metasilicates. alkaline or alkaline earth.
- composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents.
- composition according to the invention comprises:
- alkaline mineral agent preferably chosen from ammonia and / or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably ammonia;
- organic alkaline agents preferably chosen from alkanolamines and / or amino acids, preferably from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine.
- composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more alkaline agent (s), preferably it comprises one or more mineral alkaline agent (s) and one or more alkaline agent (s) ( s) organic (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s).
- alkaline agent preferably it comprises one or more mineral alkaline agent (s) and one or more alkaline agent (s) ( s) organic (s) chosen from alkanolamine (s).
- the composition comprises ammonia (ammonium hydroxide)
- its content preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition comprises one or more alkanolamines
- their total content preferably ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 9% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkaline agents, and they are present in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 18% by weight, better still from 5 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic associative polymers mentioned above.
- cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
- alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
- R10 and R1 independently of one another, denote a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl group, an C 1 -C 4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and Rl 1 can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R1, independently of one another, preferably denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group;
- - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
- the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts for example chloride
- the polymers of family (1) are chosen from dialkyl homopolymers diallyl ammonium.
- (2) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16 identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C 12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen
- R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-0-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- - Al and B l represent divalent polymethylenic groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which can contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
- Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;
- Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
- B l can also denote a group (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) p-, with n and p, identical or different , being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
- X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
- Mn number-average molar mass
- cationic polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
- R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from 'a mineral or organic acid.
- the cationic polymer (s) is / are chosen from homopolymers of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, in particular homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, the polymers consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (IV) ) above, in particular poly (dimethyliminio) - 1, 3-propanediyl (dimethyliminio) - 1, 6-hexanediyldichloride, whose INCI name is hexadimethrine chloride; and their mixtures.
- the total content of cationic polymers (other than associative polymers and fixing polymers) in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 7%, relative to the weight of the composition, again more advantageously from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more surfactants, these can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, and their mixtures, preferably from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- surfactants these can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, and their mixtures, preferably from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C0 2 H, C0 2 , SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3-, H 2 P0 3 , HPO3-, PO3 2 -, H 2 P0 2 , HP0 2 , P0 2 2 , POH and PO ⁇
- C 8 / Ci 6 alkyls are used (poly) glycoside 1, 4, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those sold by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
- nonionic surfactants are chosen from:
- - oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising at least one Cs to C 4 o alkyl chain, in particular Cs-C 2 o, even better in Cio-Ci s, saturated or not, linear or branched, and comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide; and
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from alkyl (poly) glycosides.
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants selected from (C6-C2 alkyl 4) (poly) glycosides, more preferably from (C 8 -C 8) (poly) glycosides, preferably from C 8 / Ci 6 alkyl - (poly) glucosides, preferably of type 1, 4, and preferably chosen from decylglucosides and / or caprylyl / capryl glucosides and / or cocoglucosides.
- the surfactant (s) are non-ionic, preferably chosen from (C 6 -C 2 alkyl) polyglycosides.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one or more cationic surfactants.
- the surfactant (s) are chosen from the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and their mixtures.
- tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearyl chloride on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyl ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
- the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of mono acyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethyl.
- Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 1 8 by the company REWO-WITCO.
- composition according to the invention can contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester salts of quaternary ammonium with a majority by weight of diester salts.
- ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.
- the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
- the cationic surfactant (s) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and their mixtures, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, methosethylethylammonium hydroxide mixtures.
- the composition preferably comprises one or more surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition preferably comprises one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight , based on the total weight of the composition
- the composition preferably comprises one or more cationic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the surfactant (s) are chosen from cationic or nonionic surfactants, and their mixtures, preferably cationic.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one or more cationic surfactants and one or more nonionic surfactants.
- the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more fatty alcohols.
- said fatty alcohol is chosen from non (poly) oxyalkylenated (alkyl having 1 to 3 carbon atoms) and non (poly) glycerolated alcohols.
- the non-oxyalkylene or non-polyglycerolated fatty alcohol is a fatty alcohol which comprises a hydroxy radical and at least one fatty chain having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and even more advantageously, from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, the fatty chains being optionally substituted by one or two additional hydroxyl groups.
- the fatty alcohol is a monoalcohol.
- fatty alcohols examples include lauric, cetyl, stearyl, behenic, myristic, linoleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, erucic, isoketyl, isostearyl, isobenyl alcohol, and their alcohol. mixtures.
- the composition comprises one or more non (poly) oxyalkylenated and non (poly) glycerolated fatty monoalcohols, comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and more precisely, from 16 to 1 8 carbon atoms, saturated.
- the composition has a fatty alcohol (s) content of between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 2 and 20% by weight and in accordance with an even more preferred variant of the invention, from 6 to 18% by weight.
- a fatty alcohol (s) content of between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 2 and 20% by weight and in accordance with an even more preferred variant of the invention, from 6 to 18% by weight.
- the cosmetically acceptable medium suitable for dyeing keratin fibers also called dye "support” generally comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds which would not be sufficiently soluble. in water.
- the organic solvents are chosen from monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2- methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentylglycol and 3-methyl- 1,5-pentanediol; glycerol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; as well as the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, in particular Ci-C 4 , such as for example, the monoethyl ether or the monobutyl ether of di
- compositions used according to the invention generally comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
- the composition according to the invention preferably comprises water.
- the water content varies from 5 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, better still from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 1 to 12.
- the pH of the composition (A) according to the invention is basic.
- basic pH within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a pH greater than 7.
- the pH of the composition (A) according to the invention is greater than 8, and particularly ranges from 8.5 to 12.
- the pH of the composition is between 9 and 12.
- the cosmetically acceptable medium can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers or even using conventional buffer systems.
- acidifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral acids such as for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid or organic acids such as for example the compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function, or the compounds with a carboxylic acid function such as those described above.
- mineral acids such as for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid or organic acids
- organic acids such as for example the compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function, or the compounds with a carboxylic acid function such as those described above.
- composition according to the invention may also contain various additives conventionally used in compositions for coloring the hair, such as mineral thickening agents, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickening agents other than scleroglucan gums, antioxidants; penetration agents; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersing agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents, fatty substances and / or additional direct dyes.
- mineral thickening agents such as clays, talc; organic thickening agents other than scleroglucan gums, antioxidants; penetration agents; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersing agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents, fatty substances and / or additional direct dyes.
- the above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0, 1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- Another object of the invention is a coloring process using a coloring composition (A) as described above, with an oxidizing composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
- the invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, implementing the application to the fibers of a coloring composition (A) as defined above, and an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably from hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing composition (B) being mixed with the coloring composition (A) just before use (application to said fibers) (extemporaneously) or at the time of use, or else the coloring and oxidizing compositions being applied sequentially without intermediate rinsing.
- a coloring composition A
- an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) of hydrogen peroxide, preferably from hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing composition (B) being mixed with the coloring composition (A
- the oxidizing composition (B) used with the coloring composition (A) according to the invention contains one or more chemical oxidizing agent (s), preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more hydrogen peroxide generating system (s).
- chemical oxidizing agent is meant an oxidizing agent other than air oxygen.
- the chemical oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates such as hydrogen peroxide.
- alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides solid chemical oxidizing agents generating hydrogen peroxide such as urea peroxide and polymer complexes which can release hydrogen peroxide, in particular those comprising a vinyl heterocyclic monomer such as polyvinylpyrrolidone complexes / thCh in particular in the form of powders; oxidases producing hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase).
- a suitable substrate for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.
- the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is / are chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more system (s) generating (s) hydrogen peroxide chosen (s) among a) urea peroxide, b) polymer complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide chosen from polyvinylpyrrolidone / fhCh; c) oxidases; (e) perborates and f) percarbonates; and their mixtures.
- the chemical oxidizing agent (s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals, peroxygenated salts, and mixtures of these compounds,
- the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
- the chemical oxidizing agent (s) represent from 0.05 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better still from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
- the oxidizing composition (B) according to the invention does not contain peroxygenated salts.
- the oxidizing composition (B) comprises one or more scleroglucan gums, preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the scleroglucan gum (s) which can be used according to the invention preferably represent from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 .5 to 3% by weight, better from 0.5 to 2%, or even 0.7 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
- the oxidizing composition (B) can also contain various additional compounds or various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for coloring the hair, in particular as defined above.
- the oxidizing composition (B) is generally an aqueous composition.
- aqueous composition means a composition comprising more than 20% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 40% by weight of 'water.
- the oxidizing composition (B) usually comprises water which generally represents from 10 to 98% by weight, preferably from 20 to 96% by weight, preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.
- This oxidizing composition (B) can also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents as described above. It can also include one or more acidifying agents.
- acidifying agents by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
- mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
- composition (B) is less than 7.
- the pH of the composition (B) of the invention is advantageously between 1 and 7, preferably between 1 and 4, and more preferably from 1.5 to 3.5.
- the oxidizing composition (B) is in various forms, such as, for example, a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
- the method of the invention can be implemented by applying the coloring composition (A) as defined above and the oxidizing composition (B) successively and without intermediate rinsing, the order being indifferent.
- the weight ratio R of the quantities of (A) / (B) varies from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 2, better still from 0.3 to 1.
- the application of the ready-to-use composition to the keratin materials is left in place for a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
- the temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.
- the keratin materials are optionally rinsed with water, possibly undergo a washing followed by a rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
- the keratin fibers are human keratin fibers, preferably human hair.
- the invention also relates to and a ready-to-use coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use of a composition (A ) including:
- one or more scleroglucan gums in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition
- composition (B) comprising
- the chemical oxidizing agent (s) preferably represent a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
- the invention relates to a device with several compartments comprising in a first compartment a coloring composition (A) as described above, and in a second, an oxidizing composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, these compositions having been described previously .
- the invention also has for its object and a device (or “kit”) with several compartments allowing the implementation of the composition for coloring keratin fibers, preferably comprising at least two compartments, a first compartment containing the composition coloring agent (A) as defined above, and the second compartment containing at least one oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or one or more generating system (s) (s) hydrogen peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing; in particular the kit can be an aerosol device.
- a device or “kit” with several compartments allowing the implementation of the composition for coloring keratin fibers, preferably comprising at least two compartments, a first compartment containing the composition coloring agent (A) as defined above, and the second compartment containing at least one oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and / or
- the coloration of the keratin fibers obtained in these examples can be advantageously evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system, by means of a Datacolor Spectraflash SF600X spectrocolorimeter.
- the parameters L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on the locks of hair after coloring and the parameters Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on the locks of untreated hair.
- DE * the higher the value of DE *, the better the coloration of the keratin fibers.
- the stability of the coloring compositions was evaluated by observing the compositions at T0 (immediately after preparation of the composition) and then after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.
- composition Al according to the invention is homogeneous and forms a translucent gel at T0. After 2 months at 45 ° the composition Al according to the invention is stable; it is homogeneous and translucent.
- the comparative compositions C l, C2 and C3 in which scleroglucan gum has been replaced weight for weight by another thickening agent of the polysaccharide type are not stable. Indeed, they are not homogeneous, from T0 there is a phase shift of these compositions.
- compositions were prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams:
- the stability of the coloring compositions was evaluated by observing the compositions at T0 (immediately after preparation of the composition) then after 2 months of storage at room temperature (25 ° C.), and after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.
- composition A2 according to the invention which comprises a content of scleroglucan gum greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition is stable at room temperature as well as at 45 ° for 2 months , unlike the comparative composition C4 which comprises a content of scleroglucan gum of 0.4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- Compositions A2 and C4 contain the same total content of thickening agent (s) (0.8%). The comparative composition C4 is therefore not stable.
- composition was prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams: Visual evaluation of the stability of the compositions
- the stability of the coloring composition was evaluated by observing them at T0 then after 48 hours at room temperature (25 ° C), then after 2 months of storage at 45 ° C.
- composition A3 according to the invention is homogeneous and form a translucent gel at T0. After 2 months at 45 ° composition A3 according to the invention is stable and in the form of a homogeneous and translucent gel.
- Composition A3 of Example 3 was mixed with 1 time its weight of oxidant 20 volumes (6 g% ai in H202). The mixture thus obtained was applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair.
- the bath ratio "mixture / wick” is respectively 10/1 (g / g) ⁇
- the locks are rinsed and then dried under a helmet at 40 ° C.
- the color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Datacolor Spectraflash SL600X spectrocolorimeter.
- composition is prepared according to the invention which comprises oxidation dyes in the composition below
- This composition is mixed with an oxidizing agent containing hydrogen peroxide under the conditions described above.
- a composition which is stable over time is thus obtained, which does not phase out and which makes it possible to obtain an intense coloration of the keratin fibers.
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Abstract
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Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
BR112020025640-4A BR112020025640B1 (pt) | 2018-06-20 | 2019-06-20 | Composição de coloração de fibras queratínicas, composições prontas para uso, processo de coloração de fibras queratínicas e dispositivo ou kit |
CN201980041465.2A CN112312974A (zh) | 2018-06-20 | 2019-06-20 | 包含氧化染料、硬葡聚糖胶和缔合纤维素聚合物的染发组合物 |
US17/252,883 US11278486B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2019-06-20 | Hair dyeing composition comprising an oxidation dye, a scleroglucan gum and an associative cellulose polymer |
EP19732983.2A EP3810288A1 (fr) | 2018-06-20 | 2019-06-20 | Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d'oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane et un polymere cellulosique associatif |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1855432A FR3082735B1 (fr) | 2018-06-20 | 2018-06-20 | Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d’oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane et un polymere associatif. |
FR1855432 | 2018-06-20 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2019243507A1 true WO2019243507A1 (fr) | 2019-12-26 |
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2019/066363 WO2019243507A1 (fr) | 2018-06-20 | 2019-06-20 | Composition de coloration capillaire comprenant un colorant d'oxydation, une gomme de scleroglucane et un polymere cellulosique associatif |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US11278486B2 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3810288A1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN112312974A (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3082735B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2019243507A1 (fr) |
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2019
- 2019-06-20 EP EP19732983.2A patent/EP3810288A1/fr active Pending
- 2019-06-20 CN CN201980041465.2A patent/CN112312974A/zh active Pending
- 2019-06-20 WO PCT/EP2019/066363 patent/WO2019243507A1/fr unknown
- 2019-06-20 US US17/252,883 patent/US11278486B2/en active Active
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US20040060125A1 (en) * | 2000-04-12 | 2004-04-01 | Marie-Pascale Audouset | Oxidation dyeing composition for keratinous fibres comprising a 3,5-diamino-pyridine derivative and a particular thickening polymer |
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WO2016091816A1 (fr) * | 2014-12-08 | 2016-06-16 | L'oreal | Procédé de coloration de cheveux utilisant au moins un colorant, un sel de titane et un polysaccharide cellulosique cationique hydrophobe |
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Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US11266589B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2022-03-08 | L'oreal | Hair dyeing composition comprising an oxidation dye, a scleroglucan gum, and an alkylpolyglycoside |
US11273115B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2022-03-15 | L'oreal | Hair dyeing method using a dye composition and an oxidizing composition, said compositions comprising a scleroglucan gum |
US11278487B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2022-03-22 | L'oreal | Hair dyeing composition comprising an oxidation dye, a scleroglucan gum and an alkaline agent such as an amino acid |
US11291617B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2022-04-05 | L'oreal | Hair dyeing composition comprising an oxidation dye, a scleroglucan gum and a cationic polymer |
US11413225B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2022-08-16 | L'oreal | Hair dyeing composition comprising an oxidation dye, a scleroglucan gum, an alcanolamine and a mineral alkaline agent |
US11701311B2 (en) | 2018-06-20 | 2023-07-18 | L'oreal | Device for dispensing a hair dyeing product using a dye composition and an oxidizing composition comprising a scleroglucan gum |
FR3130580A1 (fr) * | 2021-12-22 | 2023-06-23 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique comprenant du propane-1,3-diol, un ou plusieurs agents alcalins, un ou plusieurs polymères cellulosiques associatifs et un ou plusieurs colorants |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US11278486B2 (en) | 2022-03-22 |
BR112020025640A2 (pt) | 2021-03-23 |
CN112312974A (zh) | 2021-02-02 |
FR3082735B1 (fr) | 2022-03-11 |
US20210121385A1 (en) | 2021-04-29 |
FR3082735A1 (fr) | 2019-12-27 |
EP3810288A1 (fr) | 2021-04-28 |
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