WO2015135313A1 - 宝乐果(Borojo)护肤品及其天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的用途 - Google Patents

宝乐果(Borojo)护肤品及其天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的用途 Download PDF

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WO2015135313A1
WO2015135313A1 PCT/CN2014/087111 CN2014087111W WO2015135313A1 WO 2015135313 A1 WO2015135313 A1 WO 2015135313A1 CN 2014087111 W CN2014087111 W CN 2014087111W WO 2015135313 A1 WO2015135313 A1 WO 2015135313A1
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parts
baoleguo
skin care
group
care product
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PCT/CN2014/087111
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English (en)
French (fr)
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焦红
刘山
向文浩
洪红
李宏
梁公璧
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广州市宜健医学技术发展有限公司
焦红
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Priority to NZ724409A priority Critical patent/NZ724409A/en
Priority to JP2016555658A priority patent/JP6383001B2/ja
Publication of WO2015135313A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015135313A1/zh
Priority to US15/164,864 priority patent/US9839605B2/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P37/00—Drugs for immunological or allergic disorders
    • A61P37/08—Antiallergic agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of skin care products, in particular to skin care products which have natural moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet, anti-allergic and whitening effects.
  • Borojo is a fruit that grows in the tropical rainforests of South America, the only one that adapts to the climate of Ecuador, the genus Valeriana. Borojo fruit has a diameter of 7-12 cm. It is green when immature. It turns into brownish brown after maturity. It weighs 700-1000 g/piece. The flesh is soft, sour and sticky. The weight of the seeds is 88%.
  • Fresh Borojo is a very acid (pH 2.74), low moisture (69.22%), high carbohydrate (28.02%), low sugar (9.72%), high protein (1.22%), high dietary fiber (2.98%) fruit. B1, B2, niacin, folic acid and vitamin E in B vitamins are much higher than most fruits.
  • the total content of free amino acids is 1.35%, 25 kinds; after hydrolysis, there are 19 kinds of amino acid substances, the total amount is 2.51%, including 5 kinds of essential amino acids, and 2 kinds of essential amino acids.
  • Borojo is rich in trace elements, including potassium 3500mg/kg, magnesium 280mg/kg, iron 160mg/kg and zinc 0.64mg/kg. It contains essential trace elements zinc, copper, cobalt and iron. It may be trace elements manganese, silicon and nickel. , boron, and rare trivalent chromium and nickel in vegetables and fruits.
  • the total amount of rare earth elements and 16 kinds of rare earth elements are in the normal range, and there is no potential harm to human health.
  • the harmful heavy metal lead is 24 ⁇ g/kg, and mercury, arsenic and cadmium are below the minimum detection limit.
  • Borojo is rich in essential linoleic acid (9.91%) and linolenic acid (0.89%), total flavonoids up to 335.2mg/kg, 8,9-Iridoid glycosides up to 1.92g/100g, polyphenols up to 270mg/kg .
  • Borojo is a fruit with high nutritional value, but there is currently no report on applying Borojo to the skin care sector.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome the above-mentioned deficiencies of the prior art and to provide a skin care product containing Borojo powder, which has natural moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergy and whitening effects. .
  • the technical solution adopted by the present invention is: a Baoleguo skin care product comprising a matrix, the skin care product further comprising Borojo powder.
  • the matrix described in the present invention is a basic component of cosmetics, and can be reasonably selected by those skilled in the art according to the prior art, and the substrate can be used as an unused component, thereby obtaining a matrix of different types of skin care products.
  • the Borojo powder can be Combines different matrix components in the prior art to provide moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergic and whitening functions.
  • the Borojo powder is prepared by the following method:
  • the BRIX in the step (4) means the content of the soluble solids in the product.
  • the Baoleguo powder in the skin care product of the invention is prepared by the specific method described above, and the obtained Baoleguo powder has better anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergy and whitening effects.
  • the quality concentration of the Baoledo powder in the skin care product is 5%.
  • the mass concentration of the baota powder in the skin care product is most preferably 5%, because the whitening effect of the obtained Baoleguo skin care product is particularly remarkable at this concentration.
  • the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 50-70 parts of water, 2-10 parts of glycerin, 2-10 parts of epoxy dimethylsiloxane , 2-10 parts of caprylic or capric triglyceride, 1-7 parts of titanium dioxide, 1-7 parts of squalane, C30-45 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane or polycyclohexene oxide cross-linked polymer 0.1-3 parts, panthenol 0.1-3 parts, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 0.1-3 parts, cetearyl alcohol 0.1-3 parts, C12-20-alkyl glucoside 0.1-3 parts, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium or mineral oil or PPG-1 tridecyl ether - 60.1-3 parts, polydimethylsiloxane 0.1-3 parts, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.1-3 parts, an appropriate amount of methylisothiazolinone, an appropriate amount of
  • oil phase raw materials cyclomethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, titanium dioxide, squalane, cyclopentasiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, C12- Cross-polymerization of 20 alkyl glucoside, polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, C30-45 alkyl dimethicone or polycyclohexene oxide Put into the emulsified pot and dissolve it by heating;
  • the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 60-80 parts of water, 3-10 parts of cyclomethicone, and C12-15 alcohol benzene. 3-10 parts of formate, 3-10 parts of isopropyl myristate, 3-10 parts of propylene glycol, 2-10 parts of glycerin, 1-5 parts of cetearyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane 1- 5 parts, PEG-100 stearate 0.5-5 parts, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate 0.1-5 parts, glyceryl stearate 0.1-5 parts, methyl glucose sesqui-semi-hard 0.1-5 parts of fatty acid ester, 0.1-5 parts of tocopherol acetate, polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and 70.3-1 parts of laureth, 0.1-1 part of potassium C12-13 alcohol phosphate , vitamin P or hexadecene copolymer 0.1-1 part
  • oil phase raw materials cyclomethicone, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane, PEG- 100 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, tocopheryl acetate, bisabolol, hydroxybenzene Methyl ester, hydroxypropyl propyl ester, put into the emulsification pot, heated to dissolve;
  • the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 75-90 parts of water, 1-10 parts of butanediol, 1-10 parts of glycerol, ⁇ -glucan 1-5 parts of sugar, phenoxyethanol, 0.05-0.5 parts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.05-0.5 parts of allantoin, 0.05-0.5 parts of EDTA disodium, proper amount of methylparaben, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil The right amount of flavor.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product composed of the substrate and the Baoleguo powder mainly has an antiallergic effect.
  • the substrate is prepared by the following method:
  • the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 50-70 parts of water, 1-10 parts of glycerin, 1-10 parts of hydrogenated polydecene, and ethyl palmitate 1-10 parts of hexyl hexyl ester, 1-10 parts of butane diol, 1-10 parts of cyclomethicone, 0.1-5 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1-5 parts of C12-20 alkyl glucoside , C13-14 isoparaffin 0.1-5 parts, PEG-100 stearate 0.1-5 parts, polyacrylamide 0.1-5 parts, polydimethylsiloxane 0.1-5 parts, laureth-70.1 -5 parts, 0.1-5 parts of titanium dioxide, 0.1-5 parts of tocopherol acetate, 0.1-1 part of allantoin, 0.1-1 part of xanthan gum, 0.1-1 part of tranexamic acid, appropriate amount of essence, sodium hyaluron
  • the Baoleguo skin care product composed of the substrate and the Baoleguo powder mainly has a whitening effect.
  • the substrate is prepared by the following method:
  • oil phase raw materials hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl palmitate, cyclomethicone, cetearyl alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearic acid Ester, polydimethylsiloxane, tocopheryl acetate, put into the emulsification pot, and dissolved by heating;
  • the invention also provides a preparation method of the above-mentioned Baoleguo skin care product, wherein the method comprises mixing and stirring the Borojo powder in the matrix uniformly.
  • the Baoleguo powder skin care product of the invention can simply mix and disperse the Baole fruit powder in the matrix uniformly, and the matrix can adopt different skin types of different types and different functions in the prior art, and adopt different
  • the matrix is mixed with the Baoleguo powder of the present invention, and the Baoleguo skin care products with different effects can be obtained, and the main functions are moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet, anti-allergic and whitening.
  • the present invention also provides the use of the Borojo powder in a skin care product, which is prepared by the following method:
  • the Baoleguo powder of the invention has the functions of moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet, anti-allergic and whitening, and can be combined with various skin care products to obtain a treasure with moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet, anti-allergic and whitening effects. Dimetho skin care products.
  • the quality concentration of the baota powder in the skin care product is 5%.
  • the quality concentration of Baole fruit powder in skin care products is 5%, the Baole fruit can better exert moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergy and whitening effects in skin care products.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product of the present invention is added with the specific Borojo powder, and in combination with the matrix, the Baoleguo skin care having anti-aging or anti-UV or anti-allergic or whitening effect can be obtained.
  • Product. The preparation method of the Baoleguo skin care product of the invention has the advantages of simple operation, convenient and quick obtaining the Baoleguo skin care product having anti-aging or anti-UV or anti-allergic or whitening effect.
  • the use of the Baoleguo powder of the present invention is that the inventors of the present invention have found through extensive research that the Baoleguo powder prepared by the method has anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergy and anti-allergy when used in skin care products.
  • the whitening effect, combined with different kinds of matrix, can get different kinds of skin care products with moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-UV, anti-allergy and whitening effects.
  • Figure 1 shows the histopathological morphology of the skin of a blank group of mice.
  • Figure 2 is a histopathological morphology of the skin of mice in the stromal group.
  • Figure 3 shows the histopathological morphology of the skin of the Baole fruit group.
  • Figure 4 shows the histopathological morphology of the skin of the positive control mice.
  • Figure 5 shows the histopathological morphology of the skin of Baoleguo+positive control mice.
  • Figure 6 is a graph showing the appearance of mouse skin.
  • Figure 7 is a bottom view of the mouse skin tissue section: Figure 7A is a blank group, Figure 7B is a matrix group, Figure 7C For the Baole fruit group, Figure 7D is the positive control group, and Figure 7E is the Baole fruit + positive control group.
  • Figure 8 shows the inhibitory effects of different concentrations of Baoleguo powder on tyrosinase activity.
  • Figure 9 is a comparison of staining of skin sections (x 100 times) after application of a drug to a guinea pig.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product of the embodiment comprises a matrix and a Baoleguo powder
  • the Baoleguo powder is prepared by the preparation method of the above invention part.
  • the quality concentration of the Baole fruit powder in the skin care product is 5%
  • the Baoleguo skin care product described in the embodiment is prepared by the following method:
  • oil phase raw material 2 parts of cyclomethicone, 10 parts of caprylic or capric triglyceride, 7 parts of titanium dioxide, 1 part of squalane, cyclopenta-dimethylsilane 0.1 part of oxane, 3 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 part of C12-20 alkyl glucoside, 0.1 part of polydimethylsiloxane, 3 parts of PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, C30 0.1 part of -45 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane or polycyclohexene oxide crosslinked polymer, put into an emulsification pot, and dissolved by heating;
  • the preparation of Baole fruit skin care products the Baole fruit powder in the matrix prepared in step 1 mixed and dispersed evenly, that is, Baole fruit anti-aging cream.
  • the base of the Baoleguo skin care product of the present embodiment comprises the following components by weight: 70 parts of water, 2 parts of glycerin, 10 parts of epoxy dimethyl siloxane, 2 parts of octanoic acid or citric acid triglyceride, titanium dioxide.
  • squalane 7 parts 1 part, squalane 7 parts, C30-45 alkyl dimethicone or polycyclohexene oxide cross-linking polymer 3 parts, panthenol 0.1 part, cyclopentapolydimethylsiloxane 3 , cetylstearyl alcohol 0.1 parts, C12-20-alkyl glucoside 3 parts, acrylic acid copolymer sodium or mineral oil or PPG-1 tridecyl polyether - 63 parts, polydimethyl silicon 3 parts of oxane, 0.1 part of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1 part of methyl isothiazolinone, 0.1 part of ethylhexyl glycerol, 1 part of carbomer, 0.01 part of xanthan gum, three 0.01 part of ethanolamine and 0.2 part of disodium EDTA.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product of the embodiment comprises a matrix and a Baoleguo powder
  • the Baoleguo powder is prepared by the preparation method of the above invention part.
  • the quality concentration of the Baole fruit powder in the skin care product is 5%
  • the Baoleguo skin care product described in the embodiment is prepared by the following method:
  • the preparation of Baole fruit skin care products the Baole fruit powder in the matrix prepared in step 1 is mixed and dispersed uniformly, that is, Baole fruit anti-UV repair milk.
  • the skin care product of the present embodiment is the same as the third embodiment except for the matrix.
  • the base of the Baoleguo skin care product of the present embodiment comprises the following components by weight: 60 parts of water, 10 parts of cyclomethicone, 3 parts of C12-15 alcohol benzoate, and myristic acid.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product of the embodiment comprises a matrix and a Baoleguo powder
  • the Baoleguo powder is prepared by the preparation method of the above invention part.
  • the quality concentration of the Baole fruit powder in the skin care product is 5%
  • the Baoleguo skin care product described in the embodiment is prepared by the following method:
  • the preparation of Baole fruit skin care products the Baole fruit powder in the matrix prepared in step 1 is mixed and dispersed evenly, that is, Baole fruit anti-allergic essence.
  • the skin care product of the present embodiment is the same as the embodiment 5 except for the matrix.
  • the base of the Baoleguo skin care product of the present embodiment comprises the following components by weight: 90 parts of water, 1 part of butanediol, 1 part of glycerol, 5 parts of ⁇ -glucan, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, and hydroxyethyl 0.5 parts of cellulose, 0.5 parts of allantoin, 0.05 parts of disodium EDTA, 0.1 part of methylparaben, 1 part of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and 1 part of flavor.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product of the embodiment comprises a matrix and a Baoleguo powder
  • the Baoleguo powder is prepared by the preparation method of the above invention part.
  • the quality concentration of the Baole fruit powder in the skin care product is 5%
  • the Baoleguo skin care product described in the embodiment is prepared by the following method:
  • oil phase raw material 1 part of hydrogenated polydecene, 1 part of ethyl hexyl palmitate, 10 parts of cyclomethicone, 5 parts of cetearyl alcohol, C12-20 5 parts of alkyl glucoside, 0.1 part of PEG-100 stearate, 0.1 part of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1 part of tocopheryl acetate, put into an emulsification pot, and dissolved by heating;
  • the preparation of Baole fruit skin care products the Baole fruit powder in the matrix prepared in step 1 is mixed and dispersed evenly, that is, Baobao fruit whitening cream.
  • the skin care product of the present embodiment is the same as the embodiment 7 except for the matrix.
  • the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 50 parts of water, 10 parts of glycerin, 10 parts of hydrogenated polydecene, 10 parts of ethylhexyl palmitate, 1 part of butanediol, 1 part of cyclomethicone, 0.1 part of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 part of C12-20 alkyl glucoside, 5 parts of C13-14 isoparaffin, 5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, polypropylene 5 parts of amide, 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 70.1 parts of laureth, 0.1 part of titanium dioxide, 5 parts of tocopherol acetate, 0.1 part of allantoin, 1 part of xanthan gum, 0.1 part of tranexamic acid 1 part of essence, 1 part of
  • Blank group indicates a group that did not use any drugs or experimental interventions
  • Matrix group a cosmetic base component (matrix) that does not contain baotaric powder;
  • Baole fruit group Baobao fruit skin care products containing Baole fruit powder and substrate;
  • Positive control group means skin care products containing Baole fruit, but containing market-recognized positive components and matrix with anti-allergic, anti-UV repair, anti-aging and whitening effects;
  • Baoleguo + positive control group a skin care product containing both Baole fruit, positive components and matrix;
  • the above-mentioned base comprises the following components by weight: 50-70 parts of water, 2-10 parts of glycerin, 2-10 parts of epoxy dimethylsiloxane, 2-10 parts of caprylic acid or capric acid triglyceride, titanium dioxide 1-7 parts, squalane 1-7 parts, C30-45 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane or polycyclohexene oxide cross-linked polymer 0.1-3 parts, panthenol 0.1-3 parts, ring five Polydimethylsiloxane 0.1-3 parts, cetearyl citrate 0.1-3 parts, C12-20-alkyl glucoside 0.1-3 parts, acrylic acid copolymer sodium or mineral oil or PPG-1 Tridecyl polyether-60.1-3 parts, polydimethylsiloxane 0.1-3 parts, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate 0.1-3 parts, methylisothiazolinone amount, B The amount of hexyl glycerin, 0.01-1 part of carbomer,
  • the quality concentration of Baoleguo powder in skin care products was 5%.
  • the positive component comprises the following components: tocopherol acetate and retinyl palmitate.
  • tocopherol acetate and retinyl palmitate In the above positive control group and Baoleguo + positive control group, the mass concentration of tocopherol acetate in skin care products was 5%, and the concentration of retinyl palmitate in skin care products was 1%. .
  • mice were randomly divided into 5 groups and 12 rats in each group.
  • Group A was a blank control group
  • group B was a matrix group
  • group C was a fruit-containing group
  • group D was a positive group
  • group E was a baicaluo+ positive group.
  • the back hair of each group of mice was removed 24 hours before the experiment, and the exposed area was about 4 cm ⁇ 3 cm.
  • mice in the other groups were injected subcutaneously with 5% D-galactose (200 mg ⁇ kg -1 ) every day for 28 days to establish a subacute aging model of mice.
  • the blank control group did not do any treatment.
  • the administration was started from the first day of modeling.
  • Group A was not coated with any drugs
  • group B was coated with matrix every day
  • group C was coated with Baoleguo cosmetics every day
  • group D was coated with positive drugs
  • group E was coated with Baole fruit + positive cosmetics
  • each group was coated with cosmetic samples at 2 mg/cm2 every day for 28 days. The mice were sacrificed 1 h after the last administration.
  • TIMP-1 content in the skin homogenate supernatant Each mouse was taken with a circular area of 1.2 cm in diameter, scraped off the fat layer, and homogenized for 5 min at a speed of 18000 r ⁇ min-1 using a homogenizer. A 1% homogenate was prepared and centrifuged for 10 min at 16000 r/min using a frozen high speed centrifuge. The supernatant was taken for use. The skin tissue homogenate TIMP-1 concentration was determined according to the ELISA kit instructions.
  • mice in each group grew normally, the body weight increased steadily, no abnormal obesity and weight loss were observed. There was no abnormality in daily drinking water and urination. There was no significant difference between the weight of each group and the blank control group (P>0.05). 1. Compared with the blank group, each D-galactose subacute aging model mice group was apathetic, and the back hair growth was slow and the skin was dark red.
  • the blank control group had intact epidermal tissue structure, clear cell layer, normal skin thickness and obvious epidermal process.
  • the dermis layer showed wavy fibrous tissue, arranged in order, evenly distributed, dense and dense, and the dermal papilla was clear. .
  • the mice in the blank group were not subjected to aging modeling, and the skin tissue microscopy showed normal skin tissue morphology, as shown in Fig. 1.
  • the epidermal tissue of the matrix model group is obviously thinner, the structure is not complete, the stratification is unclear, and the epidermal dermis The junction is linear, the epidermis disappears; the dermis is disorderly arranged, the distribution is uneven, the structure is sparse, the dermal papilla is not obvious, and the sebaceous glands and sweat glands are atrophied.
  • the skin tissue of the matrix group showed obvious aging tissue morphology, as shown in Figure 2.
  • the skin tissue of Baoleguo group, positive control group and Baoleguo+positive control group showed more consistency under the microscope.
  • the epidermal tissue showed mild thinning, the skin cells were stratified more clearly, the epidermis and dermal papilla were more obvious, and the dermis layer showed wavy fibrous tissue, arranged in order, evenly distributed, and had more sebaceous glands.
  • the Baoleguo group is shown in Figure 3
  • the positive control group is shown in Figure 4
  • the Baoleguo+ positive control group is shown in Figure 5.
  • the hydroxyproline content in the skin homogenate of the aging mice using the Baoleguo group, Baoleguo+positive control group, and the positive control group is compared with the normal mice without aging modeling. There was no difference (P>0.05).
  • Baoleguo can significantly increase the concentration of hydroxyproline in the skin tissue of aging mice. The possibility and size of the increase in concentration are consistent with the positive control group and the blank group before the aging model; Baoleguo+ positive control The synergistic effect of the group was not significant.
  • Cosmetics containing Baole fruit powder can significantly increase the content of hydroxyproline in the subcutaneous tissue of aging mice, and its concentration can reach the content of hydroxyproline in the subcutaneous tissue of normal unaged mice.
  • TIMP-1 concentration in mouse skin As shown in Table 3, compared with the matrix model group, TIMP-1 was significantly increased in the skin of Baoleguo group, positive control group, Baoleguo+positive control group (P). ⁇ 0.05); TIMP-1 content in the matrix group was significantly lower than that in the unmodeled blank group (P ⁇ 0.01), between the Baoleguo group, the positive control group, the Baoleguo+positive control group. There was no significant difference in TIMP-1 concentration in skin (P>0.05).
  • the matrix model group did not use Baoleguo and anti-aging positive substances, and the TIMP-1 in the skin homogenate was the same as the normal unmodeled blank group, Baoleguo group, positive control group, Baoleguo+ positive.
  • the control group showed a significant decrease.
  • the concentration of TIMP-1 in the skin of the mice was significantly increased, and the possibility and the size of the increase in concentration were consistent with the positive control group and the blank group before the aging model;
  • the dimethoate + positive control group was used synergistically, and the effect of increasing the concentration was not obvious.
  • the cosmetics containing Baole fruit powder can significantly increase the TIMP-1 content in the subcutaneous tissue of aging mice, and its concentration can reach the TIMP-1 content in the subcutaneous tissue of normal unaged mice.
  • the secretion and activity of the metalloproteinase inhibitor TIMP-1 inhibits the degradation of skin collagen caused by metalloproteinases and promotes the proliferation of tissue cells. At the same time, it can effectively increase the content of the main collagen-hydroxyproline in the dermis. stable. Baole fruit powder has obvious anti-D-galactose-induced skin aging effect.
  • Blank group indicates a group that did not use any drugs or experimental interventions
  • Matrix group a cosmetic base component (matrix) that does not contain baotaric powder;
  • Baole fruit group Baobao fruit skin care products containing Baole fruit powder and substrate;
  • Positive control group means skin care products containing Baole fruit, but containing market-recognized positive components and matrix with anti-allergic, anti-UV repair, anti-aging and whitening effects;
  • Baoleguo + positive control group a skin care product containing both Baole fruit, positive components and matrix;
  • the above-mentioned base comprises the following components by weight: 60-80 parts of water, 3-10 parts of cyclomethicone, 3-10 parts of C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate 3-10 parts, 3-10 parts of propylene glycol, Gan 2-10 parts of oil, 1-5 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 1-5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.5-5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, sec-semi-hard of PEG-20 methyl glucose 0.1-5 parts of fatty acid ester, 0.1-5 parts of glyceryl stearate, 0.1-5 parts of methylglucose sesquistearate, 0.1-5 parts of tocopherol acetate, polyacrylamide and C13-14 70-3-1 parts of isoparaffin and laureth, 0.1-1 part of potassium C12-13 alcohol phosphate, 0.1-1 part of vitamin P or hexadecene copolymer, 0.1-1 part of potassium sebacate , bis(hydroxy
  • the quality concentration of Baoleguo powder in skin care products was 5%.
  • the positive component comprises the following components: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
  • titanium dioxide ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
  • 4-methylbenzylidene camphor ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
  • butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane a positive control group and Baoleguo+positive control group.
  • mice were randomly divided into blank control, stromal group, Baoleguo group, positive control group, Baoleguo+ positive control group. The back hair of the mouse was removed before the experiment. Each group was evenly applied to the corresponding skin care products, the dosage was 2 mg ⁇ cm -2 . After 25 minutes of administration, the mice were irradiated under ultraviolet light. The initial irradiation time was 30 min, and the irradiation time was gradually increased every day until the irradiation time was After 1h, it will not increase any more, and it will be irradiated for 14 days. The blank control group did not give any drugs and did not irradiate ultraviolet rays.
  • mice were sacrificed by cervical dislocation. Each mouse was taken with a skin area of 1.2 cm in diameter, and the fat layer was scraped off. The homogenizer was used at 18000 r ⁇ min -1 . The mixture was homogenized for 5 min to prepare a 5% homogenate. After centrifugation for 10 min using a frozen high-speed centrifuge at 16000 r ⁇ min -1 , the supernatant was taken for use.
  • SOD superoxide dismutase
  • mice in each group grew well, the body weight increased steadily, no abnormal obesity and weight loss were observed. There was no abnormality in daily drinking and urination, and the mental state was good. There was no significant difference between the weight of each group and the blank control group (P>0.05).
  • the results are shown in Table 4. Each group of mice showed mania after UV irradiation and had a strong attack power.
  • the Baoleguo group and the positive control group can reduce the MDA content in the skin homogenate (P ⁇ 0.05), while the Baoleguo+ positive control group can significantly reduce the MDA content in the skin homogenate. (P ⁇ 0.01).
  • the MDA content in the skin homogenate of the matrix group was increased (P ⁇ 0.05), and there was no significant difference between the Baoleguo and the positive control group in the same group without UV irradiation (P>0.05). There was no difference between the groups.
  • Ultraviolet irradiation can lead to an increase in MDA content in mouse skin homogenate, while Baoleguo has a significant inhibitory effect on the increase of MDA content in mouse skin homogenate caused by ultraviolet irradiation. If the synergistic effect is synergistic with other positive components, more obvious.
  • FIGS 7A and 7D The microscopes are shown in Figures 7A and 7D: blanks without UV irradiation and no drug use were consistent with UV-irradiated and used positive drug groups.
  • the surface layer of the skin of mice is intact, thin, and the cells are layered clearly. It has obvious epidermal mastoid and dermal papilla.
  • the dermis layer has wavy collagen fiber tissue. The thickness and distribution of collagen fibers are uniform, without obvious breakage and disorder. phenomenon.
  • mice were coated with bacon, positive components and skin care products containing two kinds of mixture 25 minutes before exposure to ultraviolet light.
  • the MDA content in the mouse skin homogenate increased significantly, SOD The activity was significantly reduced, while the matrix group without the above substances did not have this effect, indicating that Baoleguo had obvious resistance to ultraviolet light.
  • test materials were matrix group, Baole fruit group, positive control group and Baole fruit + positive control group, and each group was the same as 1.1.3 of this example.
  • Ultraviolet light source Ultraviolet high pressure quartz mercury lamp 2, power 125W, light wavelength: 300-400nm produced by Philips (China) Investment Co., Ltd.
  • the guinea pig's back hair was removed 24 h before the experiment, and the Seriesn 170 shaver was used to remove the guinea pig's back hair and preheated for 10 min before irradiation.
  • the ultraviolet light source is located directly above the irradiation portion, and is perpendicular to the irradiation portion at a distance of 35 cm, and the irradiation power is 1346 uw/cm 2 .
  • Each group of cosmetics was applied to the entire sunscreen area in an amount of 2 mg/cm 2 and irradiated with ultraviolet light after 25 minutes of application.
  • the back of the guinea pig hair was removed 24 hours before the experiment, and the back was covered with an opaque medical rubber paste.
  • the medical rubber paste had three small holes of 1.2 cm in diameter from top to bottom on both sides of the spine.
  • the animals were irradiated under ultraviolet light and then irradiated with irradiation times of 15S, 19S, 23S, 29S, 36S, and 46S (the irradiation time was proportional to the irradiation dose), and one hole was covered with a rubber paste after the irradiation.
  • the irradiated portion was observed 16-24 h after the irradiation, and the minimum irradiation time at which erythema was observed was the MED value.
  • the back hair of guinea pigs was removed 24 hours before the experiment, and the back was covered with opaque medical rubber paste.
  • the medical rubber paste has three small holes with a diameter of 1.2 cm from top to bottom on both sides of the spine. After the animals were fixed, they were irradiated under ultraviolet light.
  • the irradiation time was irradiated according to the SPF values of the in vitro experiments of each group of cosmetics (see Table 7) and the irradiation dose increasing tables of different groups (see Table 8). The irradiation time is shown in Table 9.
  • the erythema of each area was observed 16-24h after irradiation, and the minimum exposure time of the red line was faintly visible in the smear area as the MED value of the sunscreen sample.
  • SPF ratio of MED of sunscreen lotion to MED of sunscreen lotion.
  • the MED value of the matrix group was 19S, and the MED values of each group of cosmetics were shown in Table 11.
  • the anti-ultraviolet effect of Baoleguo cosmetics belongs to superior sunscreen.
  • the sunscreen effect of positive group belongs to superior sunscreen.
  • the positive sunscreen effect of positive + Baole fruit group belongs to super sunscreen.
  • Blank group indicates a group that did not use any drugs or experimental interventions
  • Matrix group a cosmetic base component (matrix) that does not contain baotaric powder;
  • Baole fruit group Baobao fruit skin care products containing Baole fruit powder and substrate;
  • Positive control group means skin care products containing Baole fruit, but containing market-recognized positive components and matrix with anti-allergic, anti-UV repair, anti-aging and whitening effects;
  • Baoleguo + positive control group a skin care product that contains both Baole fruit, positive ingredients and matrix.
  • the above-mentioned substrate comprises the following components by weight: 75-90 parts of water, 1-10 parts of butanediol, 1-10 parts of glycerol, 1-5 parts of ⁇ -glucan, an appropriate amount of phenoxyethanol, hydroxyethyl 0.05-0.5 parts of cellulose, 0.05-0.5 parts of allantoin, 0.05-0.5 parts of disodium EDTA, appropriate amount of methylparaben, suitable amount of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, and proper amount of flavor.
  • the quality concentration of Baoleguo powder in skin care products was 5%.
  • the positive component comprises the following components: willow orchid or leaf or stem extract.
  • the mass concentration of the willow orchid or the leaf or stem extract in the skin care product was 1.5%.
  • mice were randomly divided into blank group, stromal group, Baoleguo group, positive control group, Baoleguo+ positive control group.
  • the test solution was evenly applied to the shaved skin, once a day, 100 ⁇ L/piece, and continuously applied for 7 days.
  • the blank group did not give any medicine.
  • a solution of 4-aminopyridine (containing 0.02% physiological saline) was injected subcutaneously into the applicator of the neck to 0.01 mL/g, and the blank group was injected with physiological saline. The number of carcasses in each group was recorded within 10 min, and the reaction inhibition rate was calculated.
  • mice completed by the antipruritic test were immediately sacrificed by cervical dislocation, and the sensitized skin of the same area of about 1.5 cm ⁇ 2 cm was cut out to make a tissue homogenate; using a frozen high-speed centrifuge After centrifugation at 16000 r/min for 15 min, the supernatant was taken, and the histamine concentration of the tissue homogenate was determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (Elisa) kit.
  • the Baoleguo group, the positive control group, the Baoleguo+positive control group had significant inhibition of the steroidal response in mice (P ⁇ 0.01).
  • the inhibition of the steroid reaction induced by 4-AP in Baole fruit group was the strongest, which was 52.1%.
  • the Baoleguo+ positive control group was 46.9%; the positive control group was 46.4%.
  • the matrix group was 22.7%, and there was no significant difference between the matrix group and the blank group (P>0.05).
  • the Baoleguo group, the positive control group, the Baoleguo+positive control group had significant inhibitory effects on the histamine content in the skin of the mice (P ⁇ 0.05), and the positive control group inhibited the effect. The strongest. There was no significant difference in the inhibition of histamine in the skin between the Baoleguo+positive control group and the positive control group and Baoleguo group (P>0.05).
  • Table 15 shows the inhibitory effect of each group on the histamine content in mice induced by 4-AP
  • mice were randomly divided into blank group, stromal group, Baoleguo group, positive control group, Baoleguo+ positive control group. A 2 cm x 3 cm area of hair was shaved on the back and abdomen using a shaver.
  • Ear sensitization 1 h after the last administration of abdominal sensitization, 1% DNcB was evenly applied to the right ear of each group for attack. After 24 hours of challenge, the mice were sacrificed by dislocation and punched with a 6 mm diameter metal puncher at a distance of 1 mm from the ear root in the middle of the ears of the mouse. The punch was taken and the ear tissue was accurately weighed in a thousandth of a day. The difference between the weight of the right ear piece is taken as the degree of swelling.
  • mice were weighed by open thoracotomy, and the spleen weight (mg) and thymus weight (mg) of each 10 g mouse were used as the spleen index and thymus index.
  • RESULTS Statistical comparisons were made with the increase or decrease of ear swelling, spleen index and thymus index in each group. The results were used as indicators for the positive or inhibitory effect of Baoleguo on delayed type hypersensitivity test.
  • mice in each group grew well, the body weight increased steadily, no abnormal obesity and weight loss were observed. There was no abnormality in daily drinking and urination, and the mental state was good. There was no significant difference between the weight of each group and the blank control group (P>0.05). The results are shown in Table 16.
  • mice showed swelling of the right ear, obvious thickening, and hyperemia at 24 hours after the right ear allergy challenge. Compared with the blank group, there was no difference between the groups in the ear swelling degree of each group (P>0.05).
  • the spleen index of the Baole fruit group was significantly lower than that of the blank group and the other three groups, indicating that Baole fruit significantly inhibited the spleen index increase caused by delayed type hypersensitivity in animals (P ⁇ 0.05). There was no difference between the other groups (P>0.05).
  • the inhibition effect on the spleen was significantly different between the Baoleguo group and the other groups.
  • the spleen index inhibition results were consistent among the other groups. It indicated that Baoleguo had a significant inhibitory effect on the increase of spleen index caused by delayed allergic reaction in animals, but other thymus index and ear swelling were not obvious.
  • Tyrosinase manufactured by Worthington, specification: 500 U/mg, lot number: LS003789. Weigh accurately 5 mg of tyrosinase, place it in a 25 ml volumetric flask, dilute to the mark with PBS buffer of pH 7.2, and prepare a solution with a tyrosinase activity of 100 U.
  • B.L-dopa (manufacturer: Worthington, size > 99% batch number: FBA169). Weigh accurately 0.03750g of L-dopa, place it in a 25ml volumetric flask, dilute to the mark with PBS buffer of pH 7.2, and prepare 0.15% levodopa solution.
  • Preparation of 7% sample solution accurately weigh 700 mg of Baole fruit powder, place it in a 10 ml volumetric flask, dilute to the mark with PBS buffer of pH 7.2, and prepare a 7% sample solution.
  • test sample 3mL PBS + 0.5mL tyrosinase solution
  • test sample 1 mL sample solution + 2 mL PBS + 0.5 mL tyrosinase solution;
  • test sample 1 mL sample solution + 2.5 mL PBS.
  • A, B, C, D 4 test samples were prepared immediately after the addition of 0.15% L-dopa solution 0.5mL, constant temperature reaction at 37 ° C for 5min, measuring the absorbance at 475nm.
  • Tyrosinase inhibition rate (%) [(A-B)-(C-D)] / (A-B) ⁇ 100
  • sample solutions are: 1%, 3%, 5%, 7%, 9% Baoleo powder solution.
  • Matrix group a cosmetic base component (matrix) that does not contain baotaric powder;
  • Baole fruit group Baobao fruit skin care products containing Baole fruit powder and substrate;
  • Positive control group means skin care products containing Baole fruit, but containing market-recognized positive components and matrix with anti-allergic, anti-UV repair, anti-aging and whitening effects;
  • Baoleguo + positive control group a skin care product containing both Baole fruit, positive components and matrix;
  • the above-mentioned substrate comprises the following components by weight: 50-70 parts of water, 1 - 10 parts of glycerin, 1 - 10 parts of hydrogenated polydecene, 1 - 10 parts of ethyl hexyl palmitate, 1 - 10 parts of butanediol Parts, cyclomethicone 1 - 10 parts, cetearyl alcohol 0.1 - 5 parts, C12 - 20 alkyl glucoside 0.1 - 5 parts, C13 - 14 isoparaffins 0.1 - 5 parts, PEG - 0.1-5 parts of 100 stearate, 0.1-5 parts of polyacrylamide, 0.1-5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 70.1-5 parts of laureth, 0.1-5 parts of titanium dioxide, tocopherol acetate 0.1-5 parts of ester, 0.1-1 part of allantoin, 0.1-1 part of xanthan gum, 0.1-1 part of tranexamic acid, appropriate amount of essence, 0.1
  • the quality concentration of Baoleguo powder in skin care products was 5%.
  • the positive component comprises the following components: tranexamic acid, ethyl ascorbic acid, niacinamide, bisabolol, and ceramide.
  • the mass concentration of tranexamic acid in the skin care product was 0.1%
  • the mass concentration of ethyl ascorbic acid in the skin care product was 0.1%
  • the nicotinamide was in the skin care product.
  • the mass concentration in the medium is 2%
  • the mass concentration of the bisabolol in the skin care product is 0.1%
  • the mass concentration of the ceramide in the skin care product is 0.5%.
  • guinea pigs were randomly divided into 4 groups: matrix group (a), Baole fruit group (b), positive control group (c), Baole fruit + positive control group (d).
  • matrix group (a) Baole fruit group (b), positive control group (c), Baole fruit + positive control group (d).
  • Each guinea pig was shaved into two pieces of a size of about 2 cm x 2 cm using a shaver, one area was used as the application area, and the other area was left as no treatment, and no medicine was applied.
  • Use cotton swabs to evenly apply the corresponding drugs to the skin in the application area.
  • (drugs contained in each of a, b, c, and d) administered in an amount of 0.2 mg/cm 2 twice daily.
  • the back of the guinea pig hair was shaved with a razor before each administration. After 30 days of continuous administration, the skin tissue was taken and fixed with 10% neutral formaldehyde solution, and conventional paraffin sections were
  • tissue sections were dewaxed, they were immersed in a 0.1% L-dopa solution for 4 hours, and the buffer was washed and subjected to conventional HE staining. After staining, the film was observed and photographed with a microscope, and subjected to optical density analysis.
  • the stained sections were photographed with a microscope, and the images were analyzed by Image-pro Plus 6.0 software. 15 samples were randomly taken for optical density analysis, and the average optical density value was used to express the melanin content.
  • the amount of melanin in the slice is closely related to its average optical density value. The higher the average optical density value, the higher the relative value of melanin content in the skin. Conversely, the lower the average optical density value, the lower the relative value of melanin content in the skin.
  • Average optical density value inhibition rate (blank average optical density value - average optical density value of the administration group) / blank average optical density value * 100%
  • Tyrosinase inhibition rate (%) [(A-B)-(C-D)] / (A-B) ⁇ 100
  • Group average optical density value inhibition rate (group blank average optical density value - group cosmetic average optical density value) / group blank average optical density value * 100%
  • the difference in the inhibition rate of the optical density values between the groups was compared, and it was used as an indicator for judging the inhibition of tyrosinase by Baoleguo cosmetics and reducing the production of melanin.
  • the guinea pigs in each group grew well, the body weight increased steadily, no abnormal obesity and weight loss were observed, and there was no abnormality in daily drinking water and diet, and the mental state was good.
  • the inhibition rates of optical density in the Baoleguo group, the positive control group, the Baoleguo+positive control group were 37.21%, 50.47%, and 66.38%, respectively, indicating that the combination of Baoleguo and positive components was synergistic. It has a better effect in reducing the level of melanin in the skin.
  • Average optical density value inhibition rate (blank average optical density value - average optical density value of administration) / blank average optical density value * 100%
  • Baoleguo has obvious inhibition of tyrosinase activity in vitro, which can effectively prevent the conversion of L-tyrosine hydroxylation into dopaquinone, which hinders the formation of melanin in the body, thereby achieving the whitening effect.
  • This effect is most effective for animals in the case of a concentration of 5% of Baole fruit powder.
  • Baoleguo also has obvious inhibition of tyrosinase activity in animals, reducing melanin production in the skin and achieving obvious whitening effect.
  • the Baoleguo skin care product used in the embodiment comprises Baoleo powder and a matrix, and the matrix comprises the following components by weight: 50-70 parts of water, 2-10 parts of glycerin, epoxy dimethylsiloxane 2- 10 parts, 2-10 parts of caprylic or capric triglyceride, 1-7 parts of titanium dioxide, 1-7 parts of squalane, C30-45 alkyl dimethicone or polycyclohexene oxide cross-linking 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts of polymer, 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts of panthenol, 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts of cyclopentamethicone, 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts of C12 ⁇ 20-alkyl glucoside , Acrylate Copolymer Sodium or Mineral Oil or PPG-13 Pyropolyether-60.1 ⁇ 3 parts, Polydimethylsiloxane 0.1 ⁇ 3 parts, PEG ⁇ 20 Methyl Glucose sesquihard Acid ester 0.1-3 parts
  • the skin moisture content was obtained by non-invasive testing of the skin by a volume sensor using a moisture analyzer Corneometer.
  • Determination of water loss Apply the skin surface moisture loss tester Tewameter to directly measure the moisture content of the epidermal evaporation by testing the skin without damage.

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Abstract

一种宝乐果护肤品及其制备方法，所述护肤品包含基质和宝乐果（Borojo）粉，其制备方法为：将宝乐果（Borojo）粉在所述基质中混合搅拌均匀即得。

Description

宝乐果(Borojo)护肤品及其天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的用途 技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品领域，尤其是具有天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的护肤品。
背景技术
宝乐果(Borojo)是一种生长在南美洲热带雨林的水果，唯一适应厄瓜多尔气候，茜草科林果属。Borojo果实直径达到7-12厘米，未成熟时绿色，成熟后转为茶褐色，重量700-1000克/只，果肉柔软，味酸且粘稠，去种子后果肉重量占88％。新鲜Borojo是极酸(pH2.74)、低水分(69.22％)、高碳水化物(28.02％)、低糖(9.72％)、高蛋白(1.22％)、高膳食纤维(2.98％)的水果。B族维生素中的B1、B2、烟酸、叶酸和维生素E的含量远高于大多数水果。游离氨基酸总含量为1.35％，25种；水解后含19种氨基酸物质，总量达2.51％，其中含5种人体必须氨基酸，2种条件必须氨基酸。Borojo中微量元素丰富，含钾3500mg/kg，镁280mg/kg，铁160mg/kg和锌0.64mg/kg；含有人体必需微量元素锌、铜、钴、铁，可能必需微量元素锰、硅、镍、硼，以及蔬菜水果中少有的三价铬和镍。稀土总量及16种稀土元素含量都在正常范围内，对人类健康无潜在危害。有害重金属铅为24μg/kg，汞、砷、镉在最低检测限以下。Borojo含有丰富的人体必需亚油酸(9.91％)和亚麻酸(0.89％)，总黄酮达335.2mg/kg，8,9-环烯醚萜苷达1.92g/100g，多酚达270mg/kg。
Borojo是一种营养价值很高的水果，但目前并未有将Borojo应用于护肤品领域的报道。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述现有技术的不足之处而提供一种含有宝乐果(Borojo)粉的护肤品，所述护肤品具有天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案为：一种宝乐果护肤品，包含基质，所述护肤品还包含宝乐果(Borojo)粉。
本发明中所述的基质为化妆品的基础成分，是本领域技术人员根据现有技术可以合理选择的，所述基质可采用不用的成分，从而得到不同种类护肤品的基质。当采用不同的基质时，结合所含有的宝乐果(Borojo)粉，可以得到保湿或抗衰老或防晒或抗过敏或美白等不同功效的护肤品，即所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉可结合现有技术中的不同基质成分，发挥保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功能。
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)取宝乐果(Borojo)新鲜果实，清洗去皮，将果、核分离；
(2)在果肉中加入10％果肉重量的水，研磨，然后加入1‰果肉重量的果 胶酶，在30～40℃下，使果肉酶解消化1.5小时；
(3)将酶解消化后的果肉压滤除杂，加热至80℃保持5min，杀酶；
(4)加入5‰果肉重量的碳酸钠调节pH，然后在-65℃真空浓缩至BRIX达20％；
(5)加入1％果肉重量的β-环状糊精，然后喷雾干燥，即得宝乐果(Borojo)粉。
所述步骤(4)中的BRIX是指产品中的可溶性固形物的含量。本发明所述护肤品中的宝乐果粉，采用上述所述的特定方法制备而成，得到的宝乐果粉具有较好的抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效。
采用上述所述方法制备得到的宝乐果粉的营养成分见下表：
项目 单位 含量范围 平均值
卡路里 kcal/100g 351.2-343.9 348.1
碳水化合物 ％ 84.4-81.7 83.2
膳食纤维 ％ 4.05-5.50 4.70
水分 ％ 4.25-4.86 4.52
蛋白质 ％ 1.30-1.43 1.38
脂肪 ％ 0.038-0.045 0.042
磷酸盐 mg/kg 1330-1496 1314.3
总糖 ％ 35.4-37.8 36.7
总酸 ％ 1.40-1.41 1.41
PH值   4.04-4.09 4.07
灰分 ％ 6.0-6.5 6.2
酸不溶性灰分 ％ 0.44-0.48 0.46
Vit B2 mg/kg 2.10-2.47 2.28
Vit B3(烟酸) mg/kg 4.98-6.13 5.47
Vit B5(泛酸) mg/kg 37.1-44.8 41.3
Vit E mg/kg 0.899-0.939 0.916
水解后总游离氨基酸 ％ 1.19-1.29 1.24
钾 mg/kg 15724.5-15956.44 15820.22
钠 mg/kg 10783.05～14195.64 11938.54
钙 mg/kg 496.79-526.10 509.60
镁 mg/kg 983.13-985.17 984.45
铁 mg/kg 17.91-18.07 17.97
铜 mg/kg 1.2-1.3 1.3
锌 mg/kg 2.5-2.7 2.6
铬 mg/kg 5.33-5.76 5.49
月桂酸 ％ 1.47-1.58 1.52
棕榈酸 ％ 18.59-20.22 19.58
油酸 ％ 7.182-7.73 7.52
硬脂酸 ％ 12.97-14.05 13.69
花生酸 ％ 1.77-1.86 1.80
芥酸 ％ 0.93-1.12 1.01
亚油酸 ％ 47.96-64.01 54.88
多酚 mg/100g 270.0-273.6 270.4
总黄酮 mg/kg 189.9-460.1 334.2
8，9-环稀醚萜苷 g/100g 1.90-1.94 1.92
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％。所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度最优选为5％，因为此浓度时，所得到的宝乐果护肤品的美白效果尤为显著。
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50-70份、甘油2-10份、环氧二甲基硅氧烷2-10份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯2-10份、二氧化钛1-7份、角鲨烷1-7份、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物0.1-3份、泛醇0.1-3份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1-3份、C12-20-烷基葡糖苷0.1-3份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-60.1-3份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-3份、甲基异噻唑啉酮适量、乙基己基甘油适量、卡波姆0.01-1份、黄原胶0.01-1份、三乙醇胺0.01-1份、EDTA二钠0.01-0.2份。当所述基质的采用如上所述的组分时，所述基质与宝乐果粉组成的宝乐果护肤品主要具有抗衰老的功效。所述基质采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)称出油相原料：环聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、二氧化钛、角鲨烷、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡硬脂醇、C12-20烷基葡糖苷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物，投入乳化锅，加热溶解；
(2)称出水相原料：水、甘油、泛醇、卡波姆、黄原胶、EDTA二钠，投入水锅，搅拌均匀加热溶解；
(3)开启乳化锅搅拌，开真空抽入水相，加入三乙醇胺、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-6，均质搅拌后，冷却降温，投入称量的甲基异噻唑啉酮、乙基己基甘油，搅拌均匀，出料，即得用于抗衰老护肤品的基质。
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水60-80份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷3-10份、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯3-10份、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯3-10份、丙二醇3-10份、甘油2-10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇1-5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1-5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.5-5份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-5份、聚丙烯酰胺和C13-14异链烷烃及月桂醇聚醚-70.3-1份、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾0.1-1份、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物0.1-1份、壬二酰二甘氨酸钾0.1-1份、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲和碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1-1份、红没药醇0.1-1份、尿囊素0.1-1份、羟苯甲酯0.05-0.2份、黄原胶0.1-0.5份、羟苯丙酯 0.05-0.2份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.02-1份、甜橙花油0.02-1份。当所述基质采用如上所述的组分时，所述基质与宝乐果粉组成的宝乐果护肤品主要具有抗紫外防晒的功效。所述基质采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)称出油相原料：环聚二甲基硅氧烷、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、生育酚乙酸酯、红没药醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯，投入乳化锅，加热到溶解；
(2)称出水相原料：水、丙二醇、甘油、黄原胶、尿囊素、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物，投入水锅，搅拌均匀；
(3)开启乳化锅搅拌，抽入水相，加入聚丙烯酰胺或C13-14异链烷烃或月桂醇聚醚-7、尿囊素，开均质三分钟，冷却降温，投入壬二酰二甘氨酸钾、薄荷醇乳酸酯、甜橙花油、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲或碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯，搅拌均匀，出料，即得用于抗紫外防晒护肤品的基质。
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水75-90份、丁二醇1-10份、甘油1-10份、β-葡聚糖1-5份、苯氧乙醇适量、羟乙基纤维素0.05-0.5份、尿囊素0.05-0.5份、EDTA二钠0.05-0.5份、羟苯甲酯适量、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油适量、香精适量。当所述基质采用如上所述的组分时，所述基质与宝乐果粉组成的宝乐果护肤品主要具有抗过敏的功效。所述基质采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)称出水相原料：水、丁二醇、甘油、羟乙基纤维素、尿囊素、EDTA二钠、羟苯甲酯，投入搅拌锅，加热溶解后降温；
(2)投入称量的β-葡聚糖、苯氧乙醇、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、香精，搅拌均匀，出料，即得用于抗过敏护肤品的基质。
作为本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的优选实施方式，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50-70份、甘油1-10份、氢化聚癸烯1-10份、棕榈酸乙基己酯1-10份、丁二醇1-10份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷1-10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1-5份、C12-20烷基葡糖苷0.1-5份、C13-14异链烷烃0.1-5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、聚丙烯酰胺0.1-5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-5份、月桂醇聚醚-70.1-5份、二氧化钛0.1-5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-5份、尿囊素0.1-1份、黄原胶0.1-1份、凝血酸0.1-1份、香精适量、透明质酸钠0.1-1份、苯氧乙醇0.1-1份。
当所述基质采用如上所述的组分时，所述基质与宝乐果粉组成的宝乐果护肤品主要具有美白的功效。所述基质采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)称出油相原料：氢化聚癸烯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡硬脂醇、C12-20烷基葡糖苷、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷、生育酚乙酸酯，投入乳化锅，加热溶解；
(2)称出水相原料：水、甘油、丁二醇、尿囊素、黄原胶、透明质酸钠、二氧化钛，投入水锅，加热搅拌均匀；
(3)开启乳化锅搅拌，抽入水相，加入C13-14异链烷烃、聚丙烯酰胺、月桂醇聚醚-7，均质三分钟，冷却降温，投入称量的凝血酸、香精和苯氧乙醇，搅拌均匀，出料，即得用于美白护肤品的基质。
本发明上述所述用于各种功效护肤品的基质中，所述组分中的适量为本领域技术人员根据需要及现有技术，可以熟知的。
本发明还提供了上述所述宝乐果护肤品的制备方法，所述方法为将宝乐果(Borojo)粉在所述基质中混合搅拌均匀，即得。本发明所述宝乐果粉护肤品，简单的将宝乐果粉在基质中混合分散均匀即可，所述基质可采用现有技术中不同种类和用于不同功效的护肤品基质，采用不同的基质与本发明所述宝乐果粉混合，可以得到具有不同功效的宝乐果护肤品，主要功效为保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白。
另外，本发明还提供了所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉在护肤品中的用途，所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉采用以下方法制备而成：
(1)取宝乐果(Borojo)新鲜果实，清洗去皮，将果、核分离；
(2)在果肉中加入10％果肉重量的水，研磨，然后加入1‰果肉重量的果胶酶，在30～40℃下，使果肉酶解消化1.5小时；
(3)将酶解消化后的果肉压滤除杂，加热至80℃保持5min，杀酶；
(4)加入5‰果肉重量的碳酸钠调节pH，然后在-65℃真空浓缩至BRIX达20％；
(5)加入1％果肉重量的β-环状糊精，然后喷雾干燥，即得宝乐果(Borojo)粉。本发明所述宝乐果粉具有保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效，可结合各种护肤品基质使用，得到具有保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白功效的宝乐果护肤品。
作为本发明所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉在护肤品中的用途的优选实施方式，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％。当宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％时，所述宝乐果在护肤品中能够更好的发挥保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效。
本发明所述宝乐果护肤品，添加了所述特定的宝乐果(Borojo)粉，结合所述基质的不同，可以得到具有抗衰老或抗紫外或抗过敏或美白功效的宝乐果护肤品。本发明所述宝乐果护肤品的制备方法，操作简单，可以方便快捷得到具有抗衰老或抗紫外或抗过敏或美白功效的宝乐果护肤品。本发明所述宝乐果粉的用途，是本申请发明人经过大量研究发现，所述方法制备而成的宝乐果粉，当用于护肤品时，具有抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效，结合不同种类的基质时，可以得到不同种类的具有保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的功效的护肤品。
附图说明
图1为空白组小鼠皮肤组织病理学形态。
图2为基质组小鼠皮肤组织病理学形态。
图3为宝乐果组小鼠皮肤组织病理学形态。
图4为阳性对照组小鼠皮肤组织病理学形态。
图5为宝乐果+阳性对照组小鼠皮肤组织病理学形态。
图6为小鼠皮肤外观评价图。
图7为小鼠皮肤组织切片镜下图：图7A为空白组、图7B为基质组、图7C 为宝乐果组、图7D为阳性对照组、图7E为宝乐果+阳性对照组。
图8为不同浓度的宝乐果粉对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制作用。
图9为花色豚鼠涂抹药物后皮肤切片染色对比图(×100倍)。
具体实施方式
为更好的说明本发明的目的、技术方案和优点，下面将结合附图和具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例1
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品含有基质和宝乐果粉，所述宝乐果粉采用上述发明内容部分的制备方法制备而成，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品采用以下方法制备而成：
1、基质的制备
1.1称取以下重量份的出油相原料：环聚二甲基硅氧烷2份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯10份、二氧化钛7份、角鲨烷1份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3份、C12-20烷基葡糖苷0.1份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯3份、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物0.1份，投入乳化锅，加热溶解；
1.2称取以下重量份的出水相原料：水50份、甘油10份、泛醇3份、卡波姆0.01份、黄原胶1份、EDTA二钠0.01份，投入水锅，搅拌均匀加热溶解；
1.3开启乳化锅搅拌，开真空抽入水相，加入以下重量份的三乙醇胺1份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-60.1份，均质搅拌后，冷却降温，投入以下重量份的甲基异噻唑啉酮0.2份、乙基己基甘油0.5份，搅拌均匀，出料，即得基质；
2、宝乐果护肤品的制备：将宝乐果粉在步骤1制备得到的基质中混合分散均匀，即得宝乐果抗衰老乳霜。
实施例2
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例护肤品除基质外，其余均与实施例1相同。本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品中基质包含以下重量份的组分：水70份、甘油2份、环氧二甲基硅氧烷10份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯2份、二氧化钛1份、角鲨烷7份、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物3份、泛醇0.1份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1份、C12-20-烷基葡糖苷3份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-63份、聚二甲基硅氧烷3份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1份、甲基异噻唑啉酮1份、乙基己基甘油0.1份、卡波姆1份、黄原胶0.01份、三乙醇胺0.01份、EDTA二钠0.2份。
实施例3
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品含有基质和宝乐果粉，所述宝乐果粉采用上述发明内容部分的制备方法制备而成，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品采用以下方法制备而成：
1、基质的制备
1.1称取以下重量份的出油相原料：环聚二甲基硅氧烷3份、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯10份、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.5份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1份、甘油硬脂酸酯5份、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1份、红没药醇0.1份、羟苯甲酯0.05份、羟苯丙酯0.05份，投入乳化锅，加热到溶解；
1.2称取以下重量份的出水相原料：水80份、丙二醇3份、甘油2份、黄原胶0.1份、尿囊素0.05份、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾1份、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物1份，投入水锅，搅拌均匀；
1.3开启乳化锅搅拌，抽入水相，加入以下重量份的聚丙烯酰胺或C13-14异链烷烃或月桂醇聚醚-71份、尿囊素0.05份，开均质三分钟，冷却降温，投入以下重量份的壬二酰二甘氨酸钾0.1份、薄荷醇乳酸酯1份、甜橙花油0.02份、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲或碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯1份，搅拌均匀，出料，即得基质；
2、宝乐果护肤品的制备：将宝乐果粉在步骤1制备得到的基质中混合分散均匀，即得宝乐果抗紫外修复乳。
实施例4
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例护肤品除基质外，其余均与实施例3相同。本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品中基质包含以下重量份的组分：水60份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷10份、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯3份、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯3份、丙二醇0份、甘油10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇1份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯5份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯5份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1份、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯5份、生育酚乙酸酯5份、聚丙烯酰胺和C13-14异链烷烃及月桂醇聚醚-70.3份、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾0.1份、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物0.1份、壬二酰二甘氨酸钾1份、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲和碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1份、红没药醇1份、尿囊素1份、羟苯甲酯0.2份、黄原胶0.5份、羟苯丙酯0.2份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.02份、甜橙花油1份。
实施例5
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品含有基质和宝乐果粉，所述宝乐果粉采用上述发明内容部分的制备方法制备而成，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品采用以下方法制备而成：
1、基质的制备
1.1称取以下重量份的出水相原料：水75份、丁二醇10份、甘油10份、羟乙基纤维素0.05份、尿囊素0.05份、EDTA二钠0.5份、羟苯甲酯1份，投入搅拌锅，加热溶解后降温；
1.2投入称取的以下重量份的β-葡聚糖1份、苯氧乙醇0.5份、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油0.2份、香精0.6份，搅拌均匀，出料，即得基质；
2、宝乐果护肤品的制备：将宝乐果粉在步骤1制备得到的基质中混合分散均匀，即得宝乐果抗敏精华液。
实施例6
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例护肤品除基质外，其余均与实施例5相同。本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品中基质包含以下重量份的组分：水90份、丁二醇1份、甘油1份、β-葡聚糖5份、苯氧乙醇1份、羟乙基纤维素0.5份、尿囊素0.5份、EDTA二钠0.05份、羟苯甲酯0.1份、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油1份、香精1份。
实施例7
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品含有基质和宝乐果粉，所述宝乐果粉采用上述发明内容部分的制备方法制备而成，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％，本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品采用以下方法制备而成：
1、基质的制备
1.1称取以下重量份的出油相原料：氢化聚癸烯1份、棕榈酸乙基己酯1份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇5份、C12-20烷基葡糖苷5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.1份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1份，投入乳化锅，加热溶解；
1.2称取以下重量份的出水相原料：水70份、甘油1份、丁二醇10份、尿囊素1份、黄原胶0.1份、透明质酸钠0.1份、二氧化钛5份，投入水锅，加热搅拌均匀；
(3)开启乳化锅搅拌，抽入水相，加入以下重量份的C13-14异链烷烃0.1份、聚丙烯酰胺0.1份、月桂醇聚醚-75份，均质三分钟，冷却降温，投入称量的以下重量份的凝血酸1份、香精0.5份、苯氧乙醇1份，搅拌均匀，出料，即得基质；
2、宝乐果护肤品的制备：将宝乐果粉在步骤1制备得到的基质中混合分散均匀，即得宝乐果美白霜。
实施例8
本发明宝乐果护肤品的一种实施例，本实施例护肤品除基质外，其余均与实施例7相同。本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品中基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50份、甘油10份、氢化聚癸烯10份、棕榈酸乙基己酯10份、丁二醇1份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷1份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1份、C12-20烷基葡糖苷0.1份、C13-14异链烷烃5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯5份、聚丙烯酰胺5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷5份、月桂醇聚醚-70.1份、二氧化钛0.1份、生育酚乙酸酯5份、尿囊素0.1份、黄原胶1份、凝血酸0.1份、香精1份、透明质酸钠1份、苯氧乙醇0.1份。
实施例9本发明宝乐果护肤品抗衰老效果实验
1实验材料与方法
1.1实验动物昆明小鼠，SPF级，60只，雌雄各半，体重25-30g，由广州中医药大学实验动物中心提供，许可证号为SCXK(粤)-2013-0020。
1.2主要仪器石蜡包埋机EG 1160(德国莱卡LEICA)，酶标仪(Biotek Elx808),石蜡切片机RM2255(德国莱卡LEICA)，石蜡切片漂烘仪TEC-2500(德国莱卡LEICA),BSA224S电子分析天平(赛多利斯科学仪器(北 京)有限公司)，恒温水浴锅(上海精密实验设备有限公司)，FJ200-S数显高速分散机上海标本模型厂，CP-8000剃毛器深圳科德士电器有限公司，Seriesn170剃毛器德国BRAUN，UV-2450紫外-可见分光光度计(日本，岛津)，TYXH-1旋涡混合器(上海汉诺仪器有限公司)等。
1.3.1实验样品：
空白组：表示未使用任何药物和实验干预的组别；
基质组：表示不含宝乐果粉的化妆品基础成分(基质)；
宝乐果组：表示含有宝乐果粉和基质的宝乐果护肤品；
阳性对照组：表示不含宝乐果，但含有市场确认的有抗过敏、抗紫外修复、抗衰老和美白作用的阳性成分和基质的护肤品；
宝乐果+阳性对照组：表示既含宝乐果，又含阳性成分以及基质的护肤品；
上述所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50-70份、甘油2-10份、环氧二甲基硅氧烷2-10份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯2-10份、二氧化钛1-7份、角鲨烷1-7份、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物0.1-3份、泛醇0.1-3份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1-3份、C12-20-烷基葡糖苷0.1-3份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-60.1-3份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-3份、甲基异噻唑啉酮适量、乙基己基甘油适量、卡波姆0.01-1份、黄原胶0.01-1份、三乙醇胺0.01-1份、EDTA二钠0.01-0.2份。
上述所述宝乐果组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度均为5％。
所述阳性成分包含以下组分：生育酚乙酸酯和视黄醇棕榈酸酯。上述所述阳性对照组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，生育酚乙酸酯在护肤品中的质量浓度均为5％，视黄醇棕榈酸酯在护肤品中的质量浓度均为1％。
1.3.2实验试剂D-半乳糖(上海蓝季科技发展有限公司生产，批号：120820)；羟基脯氨酸试剂盒(碱水解法)(南京建成生物工程研究所生产，批号：20130806)；小鼠金属蛋白酶抑制因子-1(TIMP-1)ELISA试剂盒(天津博瑞康生物公司生产，批号：BRK-E80-8189100801)；无毒环保H-E染色试剂盒(批号：201307929)购于南京建成生物工程研究所；其他化学试剂均为分析纯。
1.4实验方法
1.4.1动物造模及给药将小60只小鼠按体重随机分为5组、每组12只。A组为空白对照组、B组为基质组，C组为含果乐宝组、D组为含阳性物组、E组为含宝乐果+阳性对照组。实验前24h将各组小鼠背部毛剔除干净，暴露面积约4cm×3cm。除空白对照组以外，其他组小鼠每天颈背部皮下注射5％的D-半乳糖(200mg·kg-1),连续注射28天,建立小鼠亚急性衰老模型。空白对照组不做任何处理。从造模的第1天开始给药。A组不涂任何药物、B组每天涂基质，C组每天涂含宝乐果化妆品，D组涂阳性药物，E组涂宝乐果+阳性化妆品，各组每天按2mg/cm2涂化妆品样品，连续涂28天，末次给药1h后处死小鼠。
1.4.2皮肤匀浆上清液中羟基脯氨酸含量测定：每只小鼠取直径为1.2cm圆形皮肤,去除脂肪层，将皮肤剪碎后置于99℃水浴放置20min，取出后流水冷却， 调PH值，稀释至10ml，加碳粉、然后以3500转/min的速度离心10min，取上清液，按说明书步骤充分混合，置于分光光度计于550nm处比色，测各管的吸光度A值。
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000001
1.4.3皮肤匀浆上清液中TIMP-1含量测定：每只小鼠取直径为1.2cm圆形面积皮肤，刮去脂肪层，使用匀浆器以18000r·min-1转速匀浆5min，制成1％的匀浆液，使用冷冻高速离心机16000r/min离心10min后取上清液备用。按照ELISA试剂盒说明书测定皮肤组织匀浆液TIMP-1浓度。
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000002
注：c：标准曲线c值；b:标准曲线斜率
1.4.4病理组织学观察：各组另取部分皮肤组织在10％***溶液浸泡2d，取出常规脱水，浸蜡、切片、HE染色，在显微镜下观察各组皮肤组织的表皮厚度、组织结构完整度，细胞分层、表皮突触清晰度；真皮层纤维组织排列分布状况，真皮***层与皮脂腺萎缩情况等。并同空白组未进行衰老造模组的小鼠皮肤组织形态比较。
1.4.5统计：所有统计在DAS1.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000003
表示，组间比较采用进行t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
1.4.6结果判断：对不同组中羟脯氨酸和TIMP-1含量进行统计学分析，观察宝乐果组同其他组之间的差异。
2结果
2.1小鼠一般状况
各组小鼠生长正常，体重稳步增加，未见异常肥胖和体重减少，每日饮水和排尿均未见异常，各组体重与空白对照组比较均无明显差异(P>0.05)，结果见表1。同空白组相比，各D-半乳糖亚急性衰老造模小鼠组小鼠精神萎靡,不喜活动背部毛发生长缓慢，皮肤呈深红色。
表1各组小鼠体重(g)变化(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000004
n＝12)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000005
2.2各组皮肤组织病理学形态观察
2.2.1空白对照组小鼠表皮组织结构完整，细胞分层清晰，皮肤厚度正常，具有明显的表皮突；真皮层可见波浪状纤维组织，排列有序，分布均匀，疏密有致，真皮***清晰。空白组小鼠未进行衰老造模，其皮肤组织镜下观察呈现正常皮肤组织形态，见附图1所示。
2.2.2基质模型组表皮组织明显变薄，结构不甚完整，分层不清，表皮真皮 交界呈直线状，表皮突消失；真皮组织排列紊乱，分布不均，结构稀疏，真皮***不明显，皮脂腺与汗腺萎缩。基质组小鼠皮肤组织呈现明显衰老组织形态，见附图2所示。
2.2.3宝乐果组、阳性对照组及宝乐果+阳性对照组小鼠皮肤组织在镜下观察呈现较多的一致性。表皮组织呈现轻度的变薄，皮肤细胞分层较清晰，表皮突和真皮***较明显，真皮层可见波浪状纤维组织，排列有序，分布均匀，有较多的皮脂腺。宝乐果组见附图3所示，阳性对照组见附图4所示，宝乐果+阳性对照组见附图5所示。
2.3小鼠皮肤中羟基脯氨酸浓度测定结果：同基质组相比较，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组皮肤匀浆中羟基脯氨酸明显升高(P<0.05)；同空白组相比，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组较未进行衰老造模的正常小鼠皮肤匀浆中羟基脯氨酸含量无明显差异(P>0.05)；宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组三组之间的羟基脯氨酸浓度进行比较无明显差异(P>0.05)。因此可得：使用了宝乐果组，宝乐果+阳性对照组，以及阳性对照组的衰老小鼠，其皮肤匀浆中的羟基脯氨酸含量同未进行衰老造模的正常小鼠对比无差异(P>0.05)。宝乐果可以使衰老小鼠皮肤组织中羟基脯氨酸浓度显著升高，浓度升高发生的可能性以及大小同阳性对照组、未衰老造模前的空白组一致；宝乐果+阳性对照组协同使用，浓度增加效应不明显。
表2各组小鼠皮肤中羟基脯氨酸含量(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000006
n＝12)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000007
注：与基质组比较P1<0.05,P2<0.01。
结论：含宝乐果粉成分的化妆品可以明显升高衰老小鼠皮下组织中的羟基脯氨酸含量，其浓度可以达到正常未衰老小鼠皮下组织中的羟基脯氨酸含量。
2.4小鼠皮肤中TIMP-1浓度测定结果：由表3可知，与基质模型组相比较，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组皮肤中TIMP-1明显升高(P<0.05)；同未造模的空白组比较，基质组皮肤中TIMP-1含量显著降低(P<0.01)，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组三组之间的皮肤中TIMP-1浓度无明显差异(P>0.05)。
由此可知，基质模型组未使用宝乐果以及抗衰老阳性物质，其皮肤匀浆中的TIMP-1同正常未造模的空白组、宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组相比显著下降。使用了宝乐果组和阳性对照组后，小鼠皮肤中的TIMP-1浓度显著升高，浓度升高发生的可能性以及大小同阳性对照组、未衰老造模前的空白组一致；宝乐果+阳性对照组协同使用，浓度增加效应不明显。
表3各组小鼠皮肤中TIMP-1含量(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000008
n＝12)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000009
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000010
注：与基质组比较P1<0.05,P2<0.01。
结论：含宝乐果粉成分的化妆品可以明显升高衰老小鼠皮下组织中的TIMP-1含量，其浓度可以达到正常未衰老小鼠皮下组织中的TIMP-1含量。
3讨论和结论
本研究用D-半乳糖致小鼠衰老，同未致衰老的正常小鼠进行比较，了解使用含宝乐果粉成分化妆品对衰老小鼠皮肤组织中的羟基脯氨酸和TIMP-1含量的影响。实验过程中还同时设置阳性对照组；设置宝乐果+阳性对照组做协同作用对照。研究中发现宝乐果粉可有效升高D-半乳糖导致的衰老皮肤组织中金属蛋白酶TIMP-1含量,有效升高衰老皮肤组织中羟脯氨酸含量，其作用机制可能是通过增加皮肤中金属蛋白酶抑制剂TIMP-1的分泌与活力，抑制由金属蛋白酶导致的皮肤胶原蛋白降解，促进组织细胞增殖；同时可以有效升高真皮组织内主要胶原蛋白—羟脯氨酸的含量且使其达到稳定。宝乐果粉具有明显的抗D-半乳糖所致皮肤衰老的作用。
实施例10本发明宝乐果护肤品抗紫外线功效实验
1实验材料与方法
1.1实验材料
1.1.1实验动物昆明小鼠，SPF级，雌雄各半，60只，体重18-22g，由广州中医药大学实验动物中心提供，许可证号为SCXK(粤)-2013-0020。
1.1.2主要仪器紫外线高压石英汞灯、功率125W，灯光波长：300-400nm，由飞利浦(中国)投资有限公司生产；BSA224S电子分析天平(赛多利斯科学仪器(北京)有限公司)，石蜡包埋机EG 1160(德国莱卡LEICA)，石蜡切片机RM2255(德国莱卡LEICA)，石蜡切片漂烘仪TEC-2500(德国莱卡LEICA)，倒置光学显微镜(日本Olympus)，恒温水浴锅(上海精密实验设备有限公司)，FJ200-S数显高速分散机(上海标本模型厂)，CP-8000剃毛器(深圳科德士电器有限公司)，Seriesn170剃毛器(德国BRAUN)，UV-2450紫外-可见分光光度计(日本，岛津)，TYXH-1旋涡混合器(上海汗诺仪器有限公司)等。
1.1.3实验样品
空白组：表示未使用任何药物和实验干预的组别；
基质组：表示不含宝乐果粉的化妆品基础成分(基质)；
宝乐果组：表示含有宝乐果粉和基质的宝乐果护肤品；
阳性对照组：表示不含宝乐果，但含有市场确认的有抗过敏、抗紫外修复、抗衰老和美白作用的阳性成分和基质的护肤品；
宝乐果+阳性对照组：表示既含宝乐果，又含阳性成分以及基质的护肤品；
上述所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水60-80份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷3-10份、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯3-10份、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯3-10份、丙二醇3-10份、甘 油2-10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇1-5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1-5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.5-5份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-5份、聚丙烯酰胺和C13-14异链烷烃及月桂醇聚醚-70.3-1份、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾0.1-1份、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物0.1-1份、壬二酰二甘氨酸钾0.1-1份、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲和碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1-1份、红没药醇0.1-1份、尿囊素0.1-1份、羟苯甲酯0.05-0.2份、黄原胶0.1-0.5份、羟苯丙酯0.05-0.2份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.02-1份、甜橙花油0.02-1份。
上述所述宝乐果组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度均为5％。
所述阳性成分包含以下组分：二氧化钛、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、4-甲基苄亚基樟脑和丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷。上述所述阳性对照组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，二氧化钛在护肤品中的质量浓度均为2％，甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯在护肤品中的质量浓度均为4％，4-甲基苄亚基樟脑在护肤品中的质量浓度均为1％，丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷在护肤品中的质量浓度均为0.5％。
1.1.4试剂盒SOD试剂盒(批号:20130906)、MDA试剂盒(批号:2013006)、考马斯亮蓝(批号:20130918)无毒环保HE染液(批号；20130729)试剂盒均有南京建成生物工程研究所生产。
1.2方法
1.2.1实验方法按体重将小鼠随机分为空白对照、基质组、宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组。实验前将小鼠背部毛剔除干净。各组均匀涂抹相对应护肤品，给药量为2mg·cm-2，给药25min后，将小鼠放在紫外灯下照射，起初照射时间为30min，每天逐渐增加照射时间，直到照射时间为1h后不再增加，一共照射14d。空白对照组不给任何药物，也不照射紫外线。
1.2.2皮肤组织匀浆的制备末次给药1h后，将小鼠颈椎脱臼处死，每只小鼠取面积直径为1.2cm皮肤，刮去脂肪层，使用匀浆器以18000r·min-1的转速匀浆5min，制成5％的匀浆液，使用冷冻高速离心机16000r·min-1离心10min后取上清液备用。
1.2.3皮肤MDA含量的测定严格按MDA试剂盒说明书操作，将样品充分混匀，95℃水浴放置80min，取出用流动凉水冷却，在3500转min-1速度离心10min，取上清液，用分光光度计在532nm处比色，测试各管的吸光度A值。
1.2.4超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)活性的检测将1.1.2皮肤匀浆液稀释5倍，制成1％的匀浆液，严格按SOD试剂盒说明书操作，在分光光度计于波长550nm处比色，测试各管吸光度A值。
1.2.5皮肤组织病理学观察将各组小鼠另取部分皮肤组织放入10％***溶液浸泡2d，取出按常规脱水，浸蜡、切片、HE染色，在显微镜下观察。
1.2.6统计所有统计在SPSS 13.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000011
表示，组间比较采用进行t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
1.2.7结果判断
1、以各组皮肤匀浆中SOD和MDA活力的差异性的统计学比较结果，表示 不同组小鼠皮肤抗紫外照射修复能力；
2、以显微镜下各组表皮、真皮层结构以及胶原纤维的组织结构变化同空白对照组比较结果，判断宝乐果的抗紫外效果。
1.3结果
1.3.1体重变化
各组小鼠生长良好，体重稳步增加，未见异常肥胖和体重减少，每日饮水和排尿均未见异常，精神状态良好，各组体重与空白对照组比较均无明显差异(P>0.05)，结果见表4。各组小鼠紫外照射后出现躁狂现象，具有很强攻击力。
表4各组小鼠体重变化(g,
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000012
n＝12)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000013
1.3.2皮肤外观评价
紫外线照射4d后，基质组照射部位开始出现红斑，随着照射时间的延长，红斑面积逐渐扩大并加重，实验结束时背部皮肤出现程度不一的皱纹；宝乐果组及阳性对照组背部皮肤也出现轻度红斑，其后随着实验时间的延长、背部皮肤出现少量的皱纹；宝乐果和阳性成分一样，使用后可使小鼠皮肤外观受紫外照射后造成的损伤得到保护。宝乐果+阳性对照组小鼠皮肤红斑较浅，面积较小，少数小鼠与空白组相似，宝乐果同阳性成分协同使用可使小鼠皮肤外观受紫外照射后造成的损伤得到更多的保护，结果见附图6所示。
1.3.3宝乐果使小鼠皮肤匀浆中SOD含量明显升高
由表5可见：同基质组相比，宝乐果组皮肤匀浆中SOD含量增多(P<0.05)；而阳性对照组与宝乐果+阳性对照组皮肤匀浆中SOD含量显著增多(P<0.01)。与空白未经紫外照射组相比，基质组皮肤中SOD含量减少(P<0.01)，其余各组同空白组无显著差异(P>0.05)，各组之间亦无显著差异性(P>0.05)。说明紫外线照射导致小鼠皮肤中的SOD酶活性下降，而宝乐果对紫外照射造成的小鼠皮肤匀浆中SOD酶活性下降有明显地抑制作用，该抑制作用如果同其他阳性成分协同使用将更加明显。
表5紫外线对各组小鼠皮肤SOD的影响
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000014
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000015
注：与基质组比较：P1<0.05，P2<0.01
1.3.4宝乐果使小鼠皮肤匀浆中MDA含量明显降低
由表6可知：同基质组相比，宝乐果组与阳性对照组可以降低皮肤匀浆中MDA含量(P<0.05)，而宝乐果+阳性对照组可以显著降低皮肤匀浆中MDA含量(P<0.01)。同空白未经紫外照射组相比，基质组皮肤匀浆中MDA含量升高(P<0.05)，宝乐果和阳性对照组各组同空白未经紫外照射组无显著差异(P>0.05)，各组之间亦无差异。紫外线照射可导致小鼠皮肤匀浆中MDA含量增高，而宝乐果对紫外照射造成的小鼠皮肤匀浆中MDA含量的增高有明显地抑制作用，该抑制作用如果同其他阳性成分协同使用将更加明显。
表6紫外线对各组小鼠皮肤MDA的影响
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000016
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000017
注：与基质组比较：P1<0.05，P2<0.01
1.3.5小鼠皮肤组织切片镜下结果
紫外线对各组小鼠皮肤组织影响(显微镜下×100倍)观察结果如下：
显微镜下见图7A与7D：未经紫外照射和未使用药物的空白组同经紫外照射并用过阳性药物组皮肤组织镜下结果较一致。小鼠皮肤表皮层结构完整，较薄，细胞分层清晰，具有明显的表皮乳突及真皮***，真皮层可见波浪状胶原纤维组织，胶原纤维的粗细及分布皆均匀，没有明显断裂及排列紊乱现象。
显微镜下见图7B：基质组表皮厚度不一，角化过度，表皮有脱落，***层变平，真皮层变厚明显，真皮内胶原纤维增粗、有断裂现象，且排列紊乱，炎性细胞浸润多见，皮脂腺不规则增生。
显微镜下见图7C和7E:宝乐果组与宝乐果+阳性对照组其组织学改变位于上述两组之间。宝乐果组与基质组相比小鼠皮肤表皮层结构较为完整，细胞分层较为清晰，真皮层可见波浪状胶原纤维组织，胶原纤维的粗细及分布较为均匀，没有明显断裂及排列紊乱现象。宝乐果组与宝乐果+阳性对照组较为一致。宝乐果与空白组以及阳性对照组相比小鼠皮肤表皮层结构没有其完整，胶原纤维的粗细及分布没有其均匀。
1.4讨论与结论
本实验结果表明，小鼠在受到紫外线照射前25min涂抹含宝乐果、阳性成分以及含两种混合物的护肤品，当受到紫外线照射后，小鼠皮肤匀浆中MDA含量明显升高下降，SOD的活性明显降低升高，而不含上述物质的基质组则无此作用，说明宝乐果对紫外线具有明显抵抗作用。
2含宝乐果防晒化妆品SPF值测定实验
2.1材料与方法
2.1.1受试材料分别为基质组、宝乐果组、阳性对照组和宝乐果+阳性对照组，各组同本实施例的1.1.3。
2.1.2紫外光源紫外线高压石英汞灯2个，功率125W，灯光波长：300-400nm由飞利浦(中国)投资有限公司生产。
2.1.3紫外线生物测量仪台湾路昌UV340A紫外光光度计，UV-340A紫外光照度计。
2.1.4实验动物普通级白化豚鼠，体重250-300g，由广州中医药大学实验动物中心提供，许可证号：SCXK(粤)-2013-0020。
2.1.5实验方法实验前24h将豚鼠背部毛发剔除、Seriesn170剃毛器将豚鼠背部毛发剔除干，照射前预热10min。紫外线光源位于照射部位的正上方，距照射部位垂直距离35cm处，照射功率为：1346uw/cm2。将各组化妆品按2mg/cm2的量涂抹整个防晒区，涂抹25min后照射紫外光。
2.1.5.1最小MED测量
实验前24h将豚鼠背部毛发剔除干净，使用不透光医用胶皮膏覆盖其背部，医用胶皮膏在脊柱两侧自上而下分别有3个直径为1.2cm小孔。将动物放在紫外线下照射按照然后按15S、19S、23S、29S、36S、46S的照射时间(照射时间与照射剂量成正比)照射，照射完一孔使用胶皮膏覆盖一孔。照射后16-24h观察照射部分，以出现依稀可见红斑的最小照射时间为MED值。
2.1.5.2SPF值测定：实验前24h将豚鼠背部毛发剔除干净，使用不透光医用胶皮膏覆盖其背部，医用胶皮膏在脊柱两侧自上而下分别有3个直径为1.2cm小孔。将动物固定后，放在紫外灯下照射，照射时间根据各组化妆品体外实验SPF值(见表7)以及不同组样品照射剂量递增表(见表8)进行照射，照射时间见表9。照射后16-24h观察各区红斑情况,涂抹区出现依稀可见红班的最小照射时间为涂抹防晒样品的MED值。
表7各组化妆品体外实验SPF值测定结果(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000018
n＝3)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000019
表8紫外线照射剂量递增系列
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000020
表9各组化妆品自上而下每孔照射时间(单位：s)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000021
2.1.6SPF值计算判断
SPF＝涂抹防晒化妆品的MED/未涂抹防晒化妆品的MED的比值。
SPF值与保护范围的关系见表10。
表10SPF值与保护范围的关系及防晒化妆品的分类
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000022
2.2结果
基质组MED值是19S，各组化妆品每只动物MED值见表11。
表11各组化妆品每只动物MED值(单位Ss)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000023
根据SPF计算公式计算各组化妆品SPF值，结果见表12。
表12各组化妆品SPF值(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000024
n＝6)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000025
结论：宝乐果化妆品其抗紫外效果属于优级防晒，阳性组防晒效果属于优级防晒，阳性+宝乐果组防晒效果属于超级防晒。
实施例11本发明宝乐果护肤品抗过敏效果实验
1、宝乐果对速发型***反应影响效果
1.1实验材料
1.1.1实验动物SPF级KM小鼠，60只，雌雄各半，由中山大学(大学城)实验动物中心提供，体重19.0±1.7g，合格证号为：SCXK(粤)-2011-0029。
1.1.2主要仪器BSA224S电子分析天平(赛多利斯科学仪器(北京)有限公司)，恒温水浴锅(上海精密实验设备有限公司)，酶标仪Model680(伯乐生命医学产品有限公司)，高速冷冻离心机KDC-140HR(安徽中科中程科学仪器有限公司)，FJ200-S数显高速分散机(上海标本模型厂)，CP-8000剃毛器深圳科德士电器有限公司，Seriesn170剃毛器德国BRAUN。
1.1.3.1实验样品
空白组：表示未使用任何药物和实验干预的组别；
基质组：表示不含宝乐果粉的化妆品基础成分(基质)；
宝乐果组：表示含有宝乐果粉和基质的宝乐果护肤品；
阳性对照组：表示不含宝乐果，但含有市场确认的有抗过敏、抗紫外修复、抗衰老和美白作用的阳性成分和基质的护肤品；
宝乐果+阳性对照组：表示既含宝乐果，又含阳性成分以及基质的护肤品。
上述所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水75-90份、丁二醇1-10份、甘油1-10份、β-葡聚糖1-5份、苯氧乙醇适量、羟乙基纤维素0.05-0.5份、尿囊素0.05-0.5份、EDTA二钠0.05-0.5份、羟苯甲酯适量、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油适量、香精适量。
上述所述宝乐果组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度均为5％。
所述阳性成分包含以下组分：柳兰花或叶或茎提取物。上述所述阳性对照组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，柳兰花或叶或茎提取物在护肤品中的质量浓度均为1.5％。
1.1.3.2小鼠阳性致敏物4－氨基吡啶：Merck公司产品，批号：54914223。使用前用生理盐水配成0.02％溶液0.01mL/g。
1.1.3.3组胺实验试剂盒：小鼠HIS Elisa试剂盒，E-20451北京永辉科技有限公司生产，批号：201306。
1.2方法
1.2.1实验方法
1.2.1.1小鼠皮肤4-AP致痒模型对致痒阈影响实验
按体重将小鼠随机分为空白组、基质组、宝乐果组、阳性对照组，宝乐果+阳性对照组。使用剃毛器在其背部剃除2cm×3cm面积毛发，受试液均匀涂于剃毛区皮肤上，每天1次，100μL/只，连续涂抹7d，空白组不给任何药物。末次给药40min后于颈背部涂药部位的皮下注射4－氨基吡啶(生理盐水配成0.02％)溶液0.01mL/g，空白组注射生理盐水。记录各组在10min内的舔体次数，并计算反应抑制率。
记录标准：以小鼠前爪搔抓头部、腮部，后爪搔抓躯干，嘴咬全身各部位为每次瘙痒特征；以小鼠连续瘙痒至出现短暂停顿，作为一次瘙痒计算。短暂停顿要求：如有行走、伸头、直立或嗅东西等移动动作，不考虑时间长短；反复扭头、添手或洗脸不算停顿。
1.2.1.2组胺含量测定将止痒实验完成的小鼠立刻颈椎脱臼处死，剪下相同部位约1.5cm×2cm面积的致敏皮肤，制成组织匀浆；使用冷冻高速离心机 16000r/min离心15min后取上清液，采用酶联免疫吸附法(Elisa)试剂盒测定组织匀浆组胺浓度。
结果判断：以动物舔体反应抑制率以及各组动物皮肤匀浆中组胺浓度的统计学结果，作为宝乐果对4－氨基吡啶致痒的止痒效果观察指标。
1.2.3统计学方法所有统计在SPSS13.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000026
表示，组间比较采用进行t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
1.3结果
1.3.1体重变化
各组KM小鼠生长良好，体重稳步增加，未见异常肥胖和体重减少，每日饮水和排尿均未见异常，精神状态良好，各组体重与空白对照组比较均无明显差异(P>0.05)，结果见表13。
表13各组KM小鼠不同时间体重变化(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000027
单位g)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000028
1.3.2宝乐果对小鼠舔体反应抑制作用明显
见表14可知，同空白组和基质组相比，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组都有显著的小鼠舔体反应的抑制作用(P<0.01)。其中以宝乐果组4-AP致小鼠舔体反应的抑制作用最强，为52.1％。宝乐果+阳性对照组为46.9％；阳性对照组为46.4％。基质组为22.7％，基质组与空白组比较没有显著差异(P>0.05)。
表14各组抗过敏精华液对4-AP致小鼠舔体反应的影响
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000029
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000030
注：与空白组比较1)P<0.01，与基质对照组比较：*P<0.01
1.3.3宝乐果对过敏动物皮肤中组胺含量抑制作用明显
由表15可知，同空白组比较，宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组对小鼠皮肤中的组胺含量抑制作用明显(P<0.05)，其中阳性对照组抑制作用最强。宝乐果+阳性对照组对皮肤中组胺抑制作用较阳性对照组、宝乐果组无明显差异(P>0.05)。
表15各组对4-AP致小鼠皮肤组胺含量的抑制作用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000031
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000032
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000033
注：1、与空白组比较*P<0.05
1.4讨论与结论
本实验选用小鼠皮肤4-AP致痒模型来研究宝乐果对速发型***反应的影响。结果表明宝乐果组能明显降低小鼠对4-AP的致痒阈，有显著防止4-AP所致小鼠皮肤瘙痒，有效降低皮肤中组胺浓度的作用。
2、宝乐果对二硝基氟苯诱导小鼠迟发型***反应作用实验
2.1实验材料
2.1.1实验动物SPF级KM小鼠，60只，雌雄各半。由广州中医药大学实验动物中心提供,体重22.2±1.9g，合格证号为：SCXK(粤)-2008-0020。
2.1.2主要仪器BSA224S电子分析天平(赛多利斯科学仪器(北京)有限公司)，CP-8000剃毛器深圳科德士电器有限公司，Seriesn170剃毛器，德国BRAUN，6mm金属打孔器。
2.1.3药品与试剂
2.1.3.1实验样品与本实施例中1.1.3.1相同。
2.1.3.2试剂小鼠阳性致敏物：2,4－二硝基氯苯(DNCB)，上海晶纯试剂有限公司，批号：9085。
2.2方法
2.2.1实验方法按体重将小鼠随机分为空白组、基质组、宝乐果组、阳性对照组，宝乐果+阳性对照组。使用剃毛器在其背部及腹部剃除2cm×3cm面积毛发。
腹部致敏：24h后各组动物的腹部用5％2，4-二硝基氯苯(DNCB)丙酮溶液50μL使动物致敏，而后每组每天于背部脱毛区涂相应的药物1次，100μL/只，连续7d。
耳部致敏：腹部致敏末次给药后lh，将1％DNcB均匀涂于各组小鼠右耳进行攻击。攻击24h后，脱臼处死小鼠，用直径6mm金属打孔器于在小鼠双耳中部距耳根1mm处打孔，取打孔器打下耳组织在万分之一天平下精密称重，以左、右耳片重量之差作为肿胀度。同时开胸开腹取小鼠胸腺及脾进行称重，分别以每10g小鼠的脾重(mg)和胸腺重(mg)作为脾指数和胸腺指数。
结果判断：以各组小鼠耳片肿胀度、脾指数和胸腺指数的增高或降低数据，进行统计学比较，结果作为宝乐果对迟发型过敏实验阳性增强或抑制的指标。
2.2.2统计所有统计在SPSS13.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000034
表示，组间比较采用进行t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
2.3实验结果
2.3.1体重变化
各组小鼠生长良好，体重稳步增加，未见异常肥胖和体重减少，每日饮水和排尿均未见异常，精神状态良好，各组体重与空白对照组比较均无明显差异(P>0.05)，结果见表16。
表16各组小鼠体重(g)变化(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000035
n＝12)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000036
2.3.2小鼠迟发型过敏反应结果(见表17)
2.3.2.1各组小鼠进行右耳过敏激发后24小时肉眼见小鼠右耳肿胀、明显增厚，并有充血。同空白组比较，各组小鼠耳肿胀度测量各组之间无差异(P>0.05)。
2.3.2.2宝乐果组同空白组比较胸腺指数无差异(P>0.05)，其他三组胸腺指数各组进行比较无显著差异性(P>0.05)。说明宝乐果对动物迟发型过敏反应导致的胸腺指数变化同空白组是一致的。
2.3.2.3同空白组比较，宝乐果组脾脏指数较空白组和其他三组明显减少，说明宝乐果对动物迟发型过敏导致的脾脏指数增大有明显抑制作用(P<0.05)。其余各组之间相比无差异(P>0.05)。
表17各组药物对小鼠迟发型过敏反应结果
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000037
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000038
注：与空白组比较*P<0.05
3讨论和结论
宝乐果组在对脾脏的抑制作用上同其他各组比较有明显差异，其他各组之间脾指数抑制结果一致。说明宝乐果对动物迟发型过敏反应导致的脾脏指数增大有明显抑制作用，但其他胸腺指数和耳肿胀效果不明显。
实施例12本发明宝乐果护肤品美白效果实验
1、体外实验
1.1实验材料
1.1.1主要仪器：BSA224S电子分析天平(赛多利斯科学仪器(北京)有限公司)，恒温水浴锅(上海精密实验设备有限公司)，UV-2450紫外-可见分光光度计(日本，岛津)。
1.1.2药品和试剂
1.1.2.1实验样品宝乐果粉
1.1.2.2实验试剂及制备
A.酪氨酸酶(厂家：Worthington，规格：500U/mg，批号：LS003789)。精密称取酪氨酸酶5mg，置25ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，配成酪氨酸酶活性为100U的溶液，即得。
B.L-多巴(厂家：Worthington，规格>99％批号：FBA169)。精密称取L-多巴0.03750g，置25ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，配成0.15％的左旋多巴溶液，即得。
C.样品溶液制备
1％样品溶液制备：精密称取宝乐果粉100mg，置10ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，制备成1％样品溶液。
3％样品溶液制备：精密称取宝乐果粉300mg，置10ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，制备成3％样品溶液。
5％样品溶液制备：精密称取宝乐果粉500mg，置10ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，制备成5％样品溶液。
7％样品溶液制备：精密称取宝乐果粉700mg，置10ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，制备成7％样品溶液。
9％样品溶液制备：精密称取宝乐果粉900mg，置10ml容量瓶中，用PH为7.2的PBS缓冲液稀释至刻度，制备成9％样品溶液。
1.2方法
1.2.2体外酪氨酸酶活性测定
根据表“1.1.2.2”取相对应样品，每组样品按照下面测试方法测量相对应样品溶液对酪氨酸酶抑制作用:
A测试样：3mL PBS+0.5mL酪氨酸酶溶液；
B测试样：3.5mL PBS；
C测试样：1mL样品溶液+2mLPBS+0.5mL酪氨酸酶溶液；
D测试样：1mL样品溶液+2.5mL PBS。
A、B、C、D 4个测试样品液同时配制好后立即分别添加0.15％L-多巴溶液0.5mL，在37℃恒温反应5min，测量475nm处的吸光度值。
酪氨酸酶抑制率(％)＝[(A-B)-(C-D)]/(A-B)×100
注：样品溶液分别为：1％、3％、5％、7％、9％宝乐果粉溶液。
1.2.3统计所有统计在SPSS19.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000039
表示，组间比较采用t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
1.3结果
由表18及图8可知，不同浓度的宝乐果对酪氨酸酶的活性都有明显的抑制作用，浓度从低到高，酪氨酸酶的活性抑制呈递增趋势，在宝乐果浓度为5％时，抑制率为48.18％，随着宝乐果浓度继续增加，对酪氨酸酶的活性抑制作用逐渐减弱。
表18不同浓度的宝乐果样品对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制情况(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000040
n＝4)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000041
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000042
1.4结论体外实验研究表明，宝乐果在5％浓度下对酪氨酸酶酶活性抑制作用最强。
2动物实验
2.1实验材料
2.1.1实验动物普通级花色豚鼠，12只，雌性，体重194.7±23.2g，由广州中医药大学实验动物中心提供。
2.1.2主要仪器CP-8000剃毛器(深圳科德士电器有限公司)，Seriesn170剃毛器，石蜡切片机RM2255(德国莱卡LEICA)，石蜡包埋机EG 1160(德国莱卡LEICA)，石蜡切片漂烘仪TEC-2500(德国莱卡LEICA)。
2.1.3药品和试剂
2.1.3.1实验样品：
基质组：表示不含宝乐果粉的化妆品基础成分(基质)；
宝乐果组：表示含有宝乐果粉和基质的宝乐果护肤品；
阳性对照组：表示不含宝乐果，但含有市场确认的有抗过敏、抗紫外修复、抗衰老和美白作用的阳性成分和基质的护肤品；
宝乐果+阳性对照组：表示既含宝乐果，又含阳性成分以及基质的护肤品；
上述所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50‐70份、甘油1‐10份、氢化聚癸烯1‐10份、棕榈酸乙基己酯1‐10份、丁二醇1‐10份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷1‐10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1‐5份、C12‐20烷基葡糖苷0.1‐5份、C13‐14异链烷烃0.1‐5份、PEG‐100硬脂酸酯0.1‐5份、聚丙烯酰胺0.1‐5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1‐5份、月桂醇聚醚‐70.1‐5份、二氧化钛0.1‐5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1‐5份、尿囊素0.1‐1份、黄原胶0.1‐1份、凝血酸0.1‐1份、香精适量、透明质酸钠0.1‐1份、苯氧乙醇0.1‐1份。
上述所述宝乐果组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度均为5％。
所述阳性成分包含以下组分：凝血酸、乙基抗坏血酸、烟酰胺、红没药醇和神经酰胺。上述所述阳性对照组和宝乐果+阳性对照组中，凝血酸在护肤品中的质量浓度均为0.1％，乙基抗坏血酸在护肤品中的质量浓度均为0.1％，烟酰胺在护肤品中的质量浓度均为2％，红没药醇在护肤品中的质量浓度均为0.1％，神经酰胺在护肤品中的质量浓度均为0.5％。
2.1.3.2试剂左旋多巴(厂家：Worthington，规格>99％批号：FBA169)
2.2方法
2.2.1分组与试药
将花色豚鼠12只，随机分成4组，分别为基质组(a)、宝乐果组(b)、阳性对照组(c)、宝乐果+阳性对照组(d)。将每只豚鼠使用剃毛器剃成两块约2cm×2cm大小区域，一块区域作为施药区域，另一块区域作为不做任何处理，不涂任何药物。用棉棒在施药区域皮肤按分组情况分别均匀涂抹相对应的药物 (a、b、c及d各含的药物)，给药量0.2mg/cm2，每日2次。每次给药前均用剃须刀将豚鼠背部毛剃除干净，连续给药30天后，取皮肤组织，用10％的中性甲醛溶液固定，常规石蜡切片。
2.2.2染色与制切片
组织切片经脱蜡处理后，用0.1％L-多巴溶液中浸泡4h，冲洗干净缓冲液，进行常规HE染色。染色后，用显微镜观察及拍片，并对其进行光密度分析。
2.2.3光密度测定
对染色后的切片，采用显微镜拍照，再用Image-pro Plus6.0软件对图像进行分析，每个样品随机拍15张照片进行光密度分析，用平均光密度值表示黑色素含量。切片中黑色素量与其平均光密度值有着密切关系，平均光密度值越高代表皮肤中黑色素含量相对值越高，反之，平均光密度值越低代表皮肤中黑色素含量相对值越低。
平均光密度值抑制率＝(空白平均光密度值-给药组的平均光密度值)/空白平均光密度值*100％
2.2.4统计所有统计在SPSS19.0软件上完成，计量资料采用
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000043
表示，组间比较采用进行t检验，P<0.05有统计学意义。
2.2.5结果判断
酪氨酸酶抑制率(％)＝[(A-B)-(C-D)]/(A-B)×100
组平均光密度值抑制率＝(组空白平均光密度值-组化妆品平均光密度值)/组空白平均光密度值*100％
比较组间光密度值抑制率的差异性，作为判断宝乐果化妆品抑制酪氨酸酶，减少黑色素生成的效果指标。
2.3结果
2.3.1体重变化
各组豚鼠生长良好，体重稳步增加，未见异常肥胖和体重减少，每日饮水和饮食均未见异常，精神状态良好。
表19花色豚鼠不同时间体重变化(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000044
n＝3单位g)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000045
2.3.2宝乐果抑制酪氨酸酶减少黑色素的切片光密度结果
表20可知，在豚鼠皮肤上连续涂抹药物30天后，基质组给药区域同其相对应空白区域相比较没有显著性差异(P>0.05)，说明基质组对皮肤美白没有作用。宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组切片的平均光密度值与空白区域将比较均有显著性降低(P<0.01)，说明宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组均能减少皮肤中黑色素含量。其中宝乐果组、阳性对照组、宝乐果+阳性对照组较空白皮肤区域对光密度值抑制率分别为：37.21％、50.47％、66.38％，说明宝乐果与阳性成分联合使用对协同降低皮肤中黑色素水平有更好的效果。
平均光密度值抑制率＝(空白平均光密度值-给药的平均光密度值)/空白平均光密度值*100％
表20涂抹宝乐果后平均光密度值抑制率(％)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000046
注：各组与空白区域光密度值进行比较：*P<0.05,**P<0.01
3讨论与结论
实验研究中发现，宝乐果在体外具有明显抑制酪氨酸酶的活性，能有效阻止L-酪氨酸羟基化转变为多巴醌，使得体内黑色素形成受阻，从而达到美白的效果。这个作用对动物而言，当宝乐果粉成分的浓度为5％时作用最强。对动物而言，宝乐果在动物体内亦具有明显的抑制酪氨酸酶活性，减少皮肤内黑色素生成，达到明显的美白功效。
实验中还发现，宝乐果与其他美白物质联合使用，有可能协同增强动物体内黑色素的生成抑制，达到美白功效。
实施例13本发明宝乐果护肤品保湿效果实验
本实施例所用宝乐果护肤品包含宝乐果粉和基质，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50‐70份、甘油2‐10份、环氧二甲基硅氧烷2‐10份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯2‐10份、二氧化钛1‐7份、角鲨烷1‐7份、C30‐45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物0.1‐3份、泛醇0.1‐3份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1‐3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1‐3份、C12‐20‐烷基葡糖苷0.1‐3份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG‐1十三醇聚醚‐60.1‐3份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1‐3份、PEG‐20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1‐3份、甲基异噻唑啉酮适量、乙基己基甘油适量、卡波姆0.01‐1份、黄原胶0.01‐1份、三乙醇胺0.01‐1份、EDTA二钠0.01‐0.2份；所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％。
随机选取10位女性志愿者，分别在志愿者的左眼角外侧(A部位)、左眼角下缘(B部位)、右眼角外侧(C部位)和右眼角下缘(D)部位涂抹本实施例所述宝乐果护肤品30天，检测这四个部位的皮肤水分含量和水分流失，结果见表21。
表21皮肤水分含量和水分流失比较(
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000047
n＝10)
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000048
Figure PCTCN2014087111-appb-000049
皮肤水份测定：采用水分测定仪Corneometer，通过容量传感器对皮肤进行无损伤测试，获取皮肤水分含量值。统计前后百分率变化的程度，即：水份变化率＝(检测值‐基础值)/基础值。
水份流失测定：应用皮肤表面水分流失测定仪Tewameter，通过对皮肤无损伤测试，直接测出经表皮蒸发的水分含量。统计前后百分率变化的程度，即：水份流失变化率＝(检测值-基础值)/基础值。
由上表可知，10位女性志愿者连续使用本发明宝乐果护肤品17天后，产品皮肤适应性好，未观察到明显的皮肤刺激、过敏等不适反应，皮肤水分含量和流失情况同未使用前有明显差异；再继续使用本发明宝乐果护肤品30天后，对皮肤水分含量的增加和皮肤水分流失的减少具有明显的改善效果，皮肤保湿/滋润功效较使用17天时明显增强。
最后所应当说明的是，以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非对本发明保护范围的限制，尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明作了详细说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解，可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换，而不脱离本发明技术方案的实质和范围。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种宝乐果护肤品，包含基质，其特征在于，所述护肤品还包含宝乐果(Borojo)粉。
  2. 如权利要求1所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉采用以下方法制备而成：
    (1)取宝乐果(Borojo)新鲜果实，清洗去皮，将果、核分离；
    (2)在果肉中加入10％果肉重量的水，研磨，然后加入1‰果肉重量的果胶酶，在30～40℃下，使果肉酶解消化1.5小时；
    (3)将酶解消化后的果肉压滤除杂，加热至80℃保持5min，杀酶；
    (4)加入5‰果肉重量的碳酸钠调节pH，然后在-65℃真空浓缩至BRIX达20％；
    (5)加入1％果肉重量的β-环状糊精，然后喷雾干燥，即得宝乐果(Borojo)粉。
  3. 如权利要求1或2所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％。
  4. 如权利要求1所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50-70份、甘油2-10份、环氧二甲基硅氧烷2-10份、辛酸或癸酸甘油三酯2-10份、二氧化钛1-7份、角鲨烷1-7份、C30-45烷基聚二甲基硅氧烷或聚环己烯氧化物交联聚合物0.1-3份、泛醇0.1-3份、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1-3份、C12-20-烷基葡糖苷0.1-3份、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠或矿油或PPG-1十三醇聚醚-60.1-3份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-3份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-3份、甲基异噻唑啉酮适量、乙基己基甘油适量、卡波姆0.01-1份、黄原胶0.01-1份、三乙醇胺0.01-1份、EDTA二钠0.01-0.2份。
  5. 如权利要求1所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水60-80份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷3-10份、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯3-10份、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯3-10份、丙二醇3-10份、甘油2-10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇1-5 份、聚二甲基硅氧烷1-5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.5-5份、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甘油硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-5份、聚丙烯酰胺和C13-14异链烷烃及月桂醇聚醚-70.3-1份、C12-13醇磷酸酯钾0.1-1份、维生素P或十六碳烯共聚物0.1-1份、壬二酰二甘氨酸钾0.1-1份、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲和碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯0.1-1份、红没药醇0.1-1份、尿囊素0.1-1份、羟苯甲酯0.05-0.2份、黄原胶0.1-0.5份、羟苯丙酯0.05-0.2份、薄荷醇乳酸酯0.02-1份、甜橙花油0.02-1份。
  6. 如权利要求1所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水75-90份、丁二醇1-10份、甘油1-10份、β-葡聚糖1-5份、苯氧乙醇适量、羟乙基纤维素0.05-0.5份、尿囊素0.05-0.5份、EDTA二钠0.05-0.5份、羟苯甲酯适量、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油适量、香精适量。
  7. 如权利要求1所述的宝乐果护肤品，其特征在于，所述基质包含以下重量份的组分：水50-70份、甘油1-10份、氢化聚癸烯1-10份、棕榈酸乙基己酯1-10份、丁二醇1-10份、环聚二甲基硅氧烷1-10份、鲸蜡硬脂醇0.1-5份、C12-20烷基葡糖苷0.1-5份、C13-14异链烷烃0.1-5份、PEG-100硬脂酸酯0.1-5份、聚丙烯酰胺0.1-5份、聚二甲基硅氧烷0.1-5份、月桂醇聚醚-70.1-5份、二氧化钛0.1-5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-5份、尿囊素0.1-1份、黄原胶0.1-1份、凝血酸0.1-1份、香精适量、透明质酸钠0.1-1份、苯氧乙醇0.1-1份。
  8. 一种如权利要求1-7任一所述宝乐果护肤品的制备方法，其特征在于，将宝乐果(Borojo)粉在所述基质中混合搅拌均匀，即得。
  9. 一种宝乐果(Borojo)粉在护肤品中的用途，其特征在于，所述宝乐果(Borojo)粉采用以下方法制备而成：
    (1)取宝乐果(Borojo)新鲜果实，清洗去皮，将果、核分离；
    (2)在果肉中加入10％果肉重量的水，研磨，然后加入1‰果肉重量的果胶酶，在30～40℃下，使果肉酶解消化1.5小时；
    (3)将酶解消化后的果肉压滤除杂，加热至80℃保持5min，杀酶；
    (4)加入5‰果肉重量的碳酸钠调节pH，然后在-65℃真空浓缩至BRIX达20％；
    (5)加入1％果肉重量的β-环状糊精，然后喷雾干燥，即得宝乐果(Borojo)粉。
  10. 如权利要求9所述的宝乐果(Borojo)粉在护肤品中的用途，其特征在于，所述宝乐果粉在护肤品中的质量浓度为5％。
PCT/CN2014/087111 2013-03-13 2014-09-22 宝乐果(Borojo)护肤品及其天然保湿、抗衰老、抗紫外、抗过敏和美白的用途 WO2015135313A1 (zh)

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