US2713683A - Brassieres - Google Patents

Description

July 26, 1955 Filed Sept. 29, 1953 L. L. KRIEGER BRASSIERES 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig. I

INVEN TOR.

LARRY L. KRIE'GER A T TORNE Y July 26, 1955 L. L. KRIEGER BRASSIERES 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Sept. 29, 1953 INVENTOR.

LARRY L. KRIEGER ATTORNEY July 26, 1955 L. L. KRIEGER BRASSIERES 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Sept. 29, 1953 Fig. 9

INVENTOR.

LARRY L. KRIEGER ATTORNEY United States Patent BRASSIERES Larry L. Krieger, Dover, Del., assignor to International Latex Corporation, Dover, Del., a corporation of Delaware Application September 29, 195.3, Serial No. 383,011 8 Claims. (Cl. 2-42) This invention relates to brassieres or bras of the type which support and mold the breasts of the human female in a desired shape and is particularly concerned with providing such support and molding While imposing the least perceptible restraint on the body and movements of the wearer.

Because of the highly competitive nature of this field, there are many ingenious variations of the basic bra structure which comprises spaced breast shaping and sup-, porting members including breast cups, means for encircling the body and holding the bra in a more or less fixed position thereto, and shoulder straps attached to the top of each of the breast supporting members and to spaced positions on the back of the body encircling band. The body encircling means generally includes a band, strip or strap across the back which is discontinuous at the center and is joined or fastened together by fastening means, such as hooks and eyes. However, even currently popular variations of the basic brassiere structure involve compromises in desirable features or sacrifice some of these features in order to achieve an inexpensive construc tion.

One of the most troublesome problems confronting the manufacturer or designer of brassieres is that of satisfying the several characteristics desired by consumers in the functioning of the side portions of the brassiere (i. e., the portion of the brassiere which is backward from the outer sides of the breast, including the general region below the armpits). Among the most important of these characteristics is the molding or restraint of the pectoral muscle and the adipose tissue or flesh lying over and associated therewith. Support of this tissue contributes greatly to the comfort of a brassiere but too much restraint, particularly if unyielding, creates a bulge or protuberance which is unsightly and which may often be observed even though covered by a dress. Additionally, too, much restraint is uncomfortable to the wearer; indeed, the edge of a tight side section may even dig into the flesh of the wearer when the arms are moved upwards or sidewards or the trunk is turned. Conversely, a side section that does not restrain gives insuflicient support and the upper portion of the side of the brassiere may gape open. Another desired characteristic of the side section of the brassiere is the comfortable transmission of tension between the front and the back of the body encircling band so that a firm support for the bottom of the breast cups is provided in the front of the brassiere and so that there is little or no tendency of the brassiere to ride up in the back. However, side sections of presently known brassieres which transmit sufficient tension between the front and back as to adequately maintain the brassiere in a fixed position girthwise of the wearer often exert an uncomfortable and circulation-reducing restraint on the upper portions of the outer sides of the breasts.

Brassieres fabricated in accordance with the present invention embody the above characteristics while avoiding the disadvantages noted, by incorporating in such a brassiere a side section which comprises an elastic member which is attached to and extends marginally outwardly mm the outer edge of the adjacent breast cup and which a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it being understood that such an embodiment is shown by way of illustration and not by way of limitation, in which drawmgs:

Figure 1 shows a front view of the brassiere with the body encircling band in a extended, for simplification;

Figure 2 is an enlarged front view of a side section and part of a breast cup of the brassiere;

Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are cross-sectional views taken along the lines 3--3, 4-4, 55, 6-6, 7-7, and 88, respectively, of Fig. 2;

Figure 9 is an enlarged front view of the front center of the brassiere; and

Figure 10 is a cross-sectional View line 1010 of Fig. 9.

The brassiere shown taken along the figured nylon sheer and plain on the back of the body Body encircling band 20, back, is equipped at its lower portion 27 of the breast cup, between the two-ply fabric of the upper section 28 of the breast cup. The searn 29 between upper and lower sections 28 and 27,

horizontal direction, such a woven strip, band or piece of material containing bare or covered rubber threads woven with rayon or cotton threads; e. g., the material known as Lastex. The top of panel 31 is concavely shaped to conform to the bottom boundary of the breast while the vertical edges of panel 31 constitute extensions of the sides of the breast cup thereabove so that the panel cooperates with the breast cup and forms a firm base or support for the breast that also obviates escape of the flesh of the lower portion of the breast. The lower horizontal edge of panel 31 is formed by folding the fabric inwardly and stitching along 32, as described hereinafter.

In accordance with the present invention, the brassiere has a side section or portion (shown in detail in Fig. 2) which comprises a side panel, strip or band 33, the front vertical edge of which is joined to both the rear edge or side of adjacent breast cup 26 and to the rear edge or side of front panel 31 and the rear vertical edge of which is joined at scam 36 to the front edge or side of rear or dorsal panel 34 forming part of the body encircling band (see Fig. 1). The upper edge 35 of side panel 33 is inclined slightly upwardly towards the front of the garment (i. e., panel 33 has a generally rhomboidal form) and intersects the outer side of the breast cup approximately at the junction of the lower and upper portions (i. e., at seam 29) and hence is attached to and cooperates with the lower portion of 27 of the breast cup. Panel 33, which is made of elastic fabric the same or similar to the fabric used to make front panel 31, is dimensioned so that the rearward edge is in the region below the armpit, preferably towards the back thereof, as shown in Fig. 2, and is cut so that it has maximum elasticity in a horizontal direction, as indicated by arrow 37.

Affixed to the outer edges of the upper and lower portions 28 and 27 of the breast cup and hence coextensive with the outer side of the breast cup is the forward vertical edge or side of an elastic member, strip or band 38. In the embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the upper part of elastic member 38 is attached to and extends marginally outwardly from the uppermost portion of the upper half of the outer edge of the breast cup, thereby advantageously forming a narrow outer side marginal portion of the uppermost part of the breast supporting member which gives additional coverage of the pectoral muscle. The rearward vertical edge of elastic side member 38 is attached to the side of the body encircling band, such as at seam 36 which is common to the rearward edge of elastic side panel 33. Consequently the major portions of side panel 33 and outer elastic member 38 are in overlapping relationship, the latter overlaying substantially the entire length of the former. Seam 36 can be formed as shown in Fig. 3, by stitching side panel 33, elastic member 38 and back panel 34 at 3939, folding over back panel 36 and stitching at 41-41 to form a finished seam. The upper and lower edges of elastic member 38 are finished, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, by folding the edges over inwardly and stitching, as at 4242 and 43-43. As can be seen from Figs. 4 and 5, side panel 33 and elastic member 38 are separate (except at the outer edges) and therefore able to stretch or move independently to a limited but adequate extent.

As shown in Fig. 2, elastic member 38 has the general shape of a truncated right triangle (the forward edge being straight instead of curved as in the drawing where it is represented as curved as though encircling a breast). When elastic member 38 is fabricated from material whose elasticity varies in different directions (e. g. Lastex), the material is preferably cut so that it has its maximum elasticity in a diagonal direction, shown by arrow 44, which can be, for example, approximately 45 degrees to the horizontal, and has a limited biased elasticity, shown by arrow 45, in a horizontal direction. The direction of maximum elasticity referred to conforms generally to the line between outer end of the horizontal median line of the breast and the center of the front edge of back panel 34. Elastic member 38 (or side panel 33) can advantageously be made of a knitted two-way stretch elastic material or of elastic material that stretches in more directions than two. In any event, member 33 has substantial elasticity in the diagonal direction indicated. it has been found to be advantageous to space the bottom edge or base 46 of the elastic side member 38 above the bottom edge or base of side panel 33 a substantial distance, particularly at its forward edge, such as a distance equal to the height of the rear edge of front panel 31. The upper or top edge 50 (which appears as curved in Pig. 2 instead of straight because the brassiere is shown in wearing position) is inclined fairly steeply towards the back, such as at an angle to the horizontal of between about 45 to 60 degrees. Such a construction results in the transmittal of any sideways thrust resulting from the confinement of the breast within the breast cup to the back or dorsal portion of the body encircling band without interfering with the body encircling function of side panel 33 and front panel 31, since elastic member 38 can move or stretch diagonally somewhat independently of the latter two elements. Should side panel 33 stretch when on the wearer, elastic member 38 has enough limited elasticity to prevent puckering or drawing of the breast cup. Additionally, it has been found that the above construction tends to prevent gaping of the outer side of the breast cup, a particular advantage when worn by a relatively small breasted woman. Also elastic member 38 controls and elastically molds the flesh between the arm and breast of a full figured woman and avoids the creation of any unsightly bulge in this region.

As shown in Fig. 6, the forward edge of elastic member 38 and the rearward edges of the upper and lower portions of the breast cup can be joined, such as by sewing at 48-48, after which the forward edge of side panel 33 is laid in overlapping relation on the forward edge of elastic member 38, together with an inelastic tape or braid 49 (to give the seam a finished appearance) and joined thereto, as by sewing at 51-51 and 52-52. This produces an inelastic outer seam, periphery or edge of the breast cup which continuously extends from the bottom of the lower portion 27 to the top of the upper portion 28. Since lines of stitching 51 and 52 are continuous around the sides of the breast cup, the assembly of the breast cup and the side section and the finishing of the breast cup are simple and efficient operations. In a similar manner, the edges are finished and continuous elastic tapes or braids are etficiently and simply applied to the top and bottom of side panel 33, the top and bottom of side panel 34 and the bottom of front panel 31, the tapes being first sewn on the outer sides of these members (the edges being merely cut) as at 5353 and 5454 in Figs. 7 and 8, the edges folded inwardly and then stitched, as at 55-55 and 56-56. Advantageously a stretchable stitch, such as a zig-zag stitch, is employed for stitching in a direction where elasticity is desired.

The brassiere advantageously comprises inner elastic members 57 and 58 which are attached to the inner edges of the upper portions 28 of the breast cups and extend from substantially the tops of the breast cups thus forming narrow inner marginal or side portions or parts of the breast supporting members. Inner elastic members 57 and'58 are made from the same or similar material as that used for outer elastic members 38 and are cut in the shape of an arrowhead so that they can be folded to form twoply obtuse-angled triangles. The longest side of this triangular shape is affixed to the inner edge of the upper portion 28 of a breast cup and to the forward or inner side edge of the adjacent front panel 31 while the shortest side is attached to the inner side of the opposite front panel 31 (as shown in Fig. 9) the third side being a folded edge most of which becomes the innermost or central edge of the breast supporting member. Elastic members 57 and 58 are cut. so that they have maximum elasticity in opposite diagonal directions (i. e., substantially from the respective shoulder strap to the center of the front section),

as shown by arrows 59 and 61 and hence gently mold or restrain the inner upper portions of the breasts. Since the direction of maximum elasticity is parallel to the outer folded edges of members 57 and 58 (and approximately parallel to the inner edges of the breast cups), these members tendto advantageously remain flat or to curve in conformity with the breast when the brassiere is in use.

Elastic members 57 and 58 extend downwardly to the bottom of the body encircling band and overlap at their lower ends, thus forming a pocket in the shape of an inverted isosceles triangle. Positioned within this pocket and attached solely to the sides thereof, as by sewing at 6262, is a piece or strip 63 of pliable inelastic fabric, such as nylon taffeta, of the same shape (i. e., an inverted isosceles triangle) as the pocket. Such a construction forms an inelastic triangular central section which functions as part of the body encircling band and which serves to maintain a constant cups. Such a central section resists vertical collapse or rolling up of the front of the body encircling band and yet is comfortable because it is pliable circumferentially or girthwise.

As can be seen from the above description, the brassiere of the present invention affords a garment that is comfortable and yet positive in its action. Elastic marginal portions at the sides of the breast supporting members act to shape the breast forwardly into a desirable conical shape, and to prevent an embarrassing or uncomfortable displacement of the breast when the wearer is bending or exercising. The body encircling band is constructed so it resists rolling up or bunching or riding up on the back of the wearer. The side section allows the wearer to move her arms without uncomfortable restraint nor does it produce unsightly bulges even though it adequately transmits the necessary elastic tension between the front and back to keep the brassiere in a fixed girthwise position. All of these advantages are gained without undue complications in the assembly of the garment that would lead to high production costs.

Although the present invention has been described with particularity with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art, after understanding the invention, that various changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention and the appended claims should therefore be interpreted to cover such changes and modifications. I

I claim as my invention:

1. In a brassiere comprising a front portion having connected breast cups having generally vertical outer side edges, a back portion having dorsal band means adapted to extend across the back of the wearer, and shoulder straps attached to said cups and to said dorsal band means, the combination therewith of elastic side portions constituting the sole connections between said front and back portions, each of which side portions is adjacent the outer side of a breast cup and comprises a diagonally elastic side member, the rearward edge of which is connected to said dorsal band means and the forward edge of which is attached to solely the adjacent breast cup along at least the major portion of the generally vertical outer side edge of said breast cup, said diagonally elastic member being adapted to extend over and mold the pectoral muscle of the wearer, and a horizontally elastic side panel attached at its forward edge to the lower portion of said generally vertical outer side edge of the adjacent breast cup and connected at its rearward edge to said dorsal band and adapted to lie in the region below the armpit of the wearer, said diagonally elastic member being separate from and lying over said horizontally elastic member.

2. In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each having a top, base and inner and outer sides, body encircling means comprising front panels attached to the base of each cup and dorsal band means adapted to extend spacing or division of the breast across the back of the wearer, and shoulder straps attached to said dorsal band means and to the tops of said cups, the combination therewith of elastic portions, each adjacent the outer side of a breast cup, each portion comprising a diagonally elastic member peripherally attached at its forward side solely to the outer side of the adjacent breast cup' from proximate the point of attachment of the shoulder strap downwardly to the base of the cup and connected at its rearward side to said dorsal band means, and a horizontally elastic panel, the forward side of said panel being attached to the lower portion of the outer side of said breast cup and to said front panel and the rearward side of said horizontally elastic panel being connected to said dorsal band means, said diagonally elastic side member and said horizontally elastic panel being separate and being in superimposed relation.

3. A brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, having a base and sides; a body encircling band comprising front panels attached to the base of each breast cup, dorsal band means adapted to extend across the back of the wearer, and horizontally elastic side portions attached to the outer edges of both the cups and said front panels, each of the front edges of said side portions of the body encircling band extending vertically from the bottom of the adjacent front panel to a point proximate the horizontal median of the breast cup; elastic pectoral muscle controlling members extending from the outer sides of said breast cups to said dorsal band means, each of said pectoral muscle controlling members having maximum elasticity in a direction approximately defined by the middle of the breast cup and the center of the junction of said member with the dorsal band means and having a moderate biased elasticity in a horizontal direction, the bottoms of said pectoral muscle controlling members being spaced above the bottoms of the elastic side portions of the body encircling band, the rear vertical edges of said pectoral muscle controlling members being at tached to the outside of the body encircling band, said elastic side portions underlying said pectoral muscle controlling members and being separately movable therefrom.

4. In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each cup having inelastic margins at its top, base and sides, body encircling means comprising front panels attached to the base of each cup and extending to the center of the brassiere, and dorsal band means adapted to extend across the back of the wearer, and shoulder straps attached to said dorsal band means and to the top margins of saidcups, the combination therewith of elastic side portions, each adjacent the outer side of a breast cup, each portion comprising a diagonally elastic member attached at its forward side solely to the adjacent breast cup along at least a major portion of the outer periphery of said breast cup and connected at its rearward side to said dorsal band means, and a horizontally elastic side panel, the forward side of said horizontally elastic side panel being attached to the lower portion of the outer side of said breast cup and to the rearward side of said front panel and the rearward side of said horizontally elastic panel being connected to said dorsal band means; and breast hugging elastic members peripherally attached to the inelastic margins of the inner sides of said breast cups and extending from proximate the tops of said cups to the panels below said cups, the free edge of each breast hugging member diverging in a downward direction from the edge attached to the inelastic margin of the breast cup, the bottom portions of said breast hugging members being attached to the panels below said breast cups at the center of the brassiere, each breast hugging member having maximum elasticity in a direction parallel to its free edge.

5. A brassiere comprising spaced breast shaping and supporting members, said members comprising upper and lower sections of pliable fabric shaped to form conical cups, each cup having a base and sides; a body encircling each cup band comprising front panels sewn to the base of each breast supporting member and a substantially inelastic and circumferentially pliable front center section; a shoulder strap supporting the top of each said cups; narrow elastic marginal members substantially coextensive with the inner upper sides of said breast cups, the marginal member along the inner side of each cup being elastic in a diagonal direction from the shoulder strap to the top of the front center section of the brassiere; horizontally elastic side portions of the body encircling band attached to the outer edges of both the cups and said front panels, each of the front edges of said side portions of the body encircling band extending vertically from the bottom of the adjacent front panel to a point proximate the horizontal median of the breast cup; elastic pectoral muscle controlling members extending from the outer sides of said breast cups to the body encircling band, each of said elastic pectoral muscle controlling members having maximum elasticity in a direction approximately defined by the middle of the breast cup and the center of the junction of said member with the body encircling band and a moderate biased elasticity in a horizontal direction, the bottoms of said pectoral muscle controlling members being spaced above the bottoms of the elastic side portions of the body encircling band, the rear vertical edges of said pectoral muscle controlling members being attached to the outside of the body encircling band, said elastic side portions underlying said pectoral muscle controlling members and being separately movable therefrom; back panels attached to said elastic side portions and fastening means associated with said back panels,

6. In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each cup having a base and inner and outer sides, band means for holding the brassiere elastically girthwise of the wearer, and shoulder straps supporting the tops of said cups and attached to the back of said band means, the combination therewith of front panels below and attached to the bases of said breast cups, said panels forming a part of the body encircling band, elastic members marginally attached to the inner sides of said breast cups and extending substantially from the tops of said cups to the bottom of the panels below said breast cups, each of said members being made of elastic fabric cut and folded to form substantially an elongated obtuse-angled triangle, the longest side of said triangle being sewn to the inner side of one of said cups and the adjacent front panel, the shortest side being sewn to the opposite front panel, and the third side, which forms the margin at the inner edge of a breast cup, being a folded edge parallel to the direction of maximum elasticity of the fabric, the lowermost portions of said members forming a pocket with sewn sides and open at the top, and an inelastic pliable fabric positioned in said pocket and attached to the seams thereof.

7. In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each cup having a base and inelastic margins at the top and sides, body encircling band means for holding the brassiere elastically girthwise of the wearer, and shoulder straps directly attached to the inelastic top margins of said cups and attached to the back of said band means, the combination therewith of front panels below and attached to the bases of said breast cups, said panels extending to the center of the brassiere and forming a part of the body encircling band, breast-hugging elastic members peripherally attached to the inelastic margins of the inner sides of said breast cups and extending from proximate the tops of said cups to the panels below said breast cups, each of said members being made of elastic fabric shaped so that the free edge of each elastic member diverges in a downward direction from the edge attached to the inelastic margin of the breast cup, the bottom portions of said members being in overlapping relation and being connected to the sides of said panels at the center of the brassiere, each of said members having maximum elasticity in a direction parallel to its free edge, whereby tension exerted between the shoulder strap and the body encircling band causes the free edge of the member to hug the breast.

8. In a brassiere comprising spaced breast cups, each cup having a base and inner and outer sides, band means for holding the brassiere elastically girthwise of the wearer, and shoulder straps supporting the tops of said cups and attached to the back of said band means, the combination thereof with front panels below and attached to the bases of said breast cups, said panels forming a part of the body encircling band, and elastic members marginally attached to the inner sides of said breast cups and extending substantially from the tops of said cups to the bottom of the panels below said breast cups, each of said members being made of elastic fabric cut and folded to form substantially an elongated obtuse-angled triangle, the longest side of said triangle being sewn to the inner side of one of said cups and the adjacent front panel, the shortest side being sewn to the opposite front panel, and the third side, which forms the margin at the inner edge of a breast cup, being a folded edge parallel to the direction of maximum elasticity of the fabric, the lowermost portions of said members forming a pocket with sewn sides and open at the top.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,264,337 Scognamillo Apr. 30, 1918 1,698,070 Roth Jan. 8, 1929 1,979,120 Robbins Oct. 20, 1934 2,202,058 Malnick May 28, 1940 2,481,603 Lo Cascio Sept. 13, 1949 2,553,225 Weaver et al. May 15, 1951 2,578,175 Cuozzi Dec. 11, 1951 2,579,545 Cadous Dec. 25, 1951 FOREIGN PATENTS 415,023 Great Britain Aug. 13, 1934 595,743 Great Britain Dec. 15, 1947 1,010,621 France Mar. 26, 1952

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