US20210346250A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for treating hair to improve combing - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for treating hair to improve combing Download PDFInfo
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- US20210346250A1 US20210346250A1 US17/283,193 US201917283193A US2021346250A1 US 20210346250 A1 US20210346250 A1 US 20210346250A1 US 201917283193 A US201917283193 A US 201917283193A US 2021346250 A1 US2021346250 A1 US 2021346250A1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 150
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims description 64
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 title description 10
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 61
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 53
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- 239000010695 polyglycol Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- -1 1-oxo-2-propenyl Chemical group 0.000 claims description 192
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims description 77
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 56
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 39
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 33
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 32
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 29
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 26
- KUDUQBURMYMBIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-prop-2-enoyloxyethyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound C=CC(=O)OCCOC(=O)C=C KUDUQBURMYMBIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- GMSCBRSQMRDRCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)=C GMSCBRSQMRDRCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- DAKWPKUUDNSNPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Trimethylolpropane triacrylate Chemical compound C=CC(=O)OCC(CC)(COC(=O)C=C)COC(=O)C=C DAKWPKUUDNSNPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 13
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- BTAXGNQLYFDKEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N propyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC BTAXGNQLYFDKEF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DPBVJRXPSXTHOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N propyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC DPBVJRXPSXTHOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003531 protein hydrolysate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001944 prunus armeniaca kernel oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008171 pumpkin seed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940073745 quaternium-82 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000010526 radical polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940108325 retinyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019172 retinyl palmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011769 retinyl palmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013535 sea water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004760 silicates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium disulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])(=O)=O HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910001379 sodium hypophosphite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940001584 sodium metabisulfite Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010262 sodium metabisulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940045870 sodium palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940083982 sodium phytate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NTVDGBKMGBRCKB-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O NTVDGBKMGBRCKB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- NGSRGPMIUOKCKY-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2,2-bis(prop-2-enoxy)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].C=CCOC(C(=O)[O-])OCC=C NGSRGPMIUOKCKY-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- SZHIIIPPJJXYRY-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methylprop-2-ene-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=C)CS([O-])(=O)=O SZHIIIPPJJXYRY-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- GGXKEBACDBNFAF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;hexadecanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GGXKEBACDBNFAF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940057429 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960002920 sorbitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020712 soy bean extract Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940071136 stearoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L succinate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CCC([O-])=O KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003445 sucroses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920001864 tannin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000018553 tannin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001648 tannin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010491 tara gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000213 tara gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003505 terpenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000007586 terpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000005063 tetradecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 229940061605 tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J tetrasodium;(2s)-2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]pentanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CC[C@@H](C([O-])=O)N(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UZVUJVFQFNHRSY-OUTKXMMCSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000005040 tridecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O triethanolammonium Chemical compound OCC[NH+](CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 235000001019 trigonella foenum-graecum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(prop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)C=C OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001643 venotonic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N β-1,4-galactotrioside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](CO)O[C@@H](O[C@@H]2[C@@H](O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-BYLHFPJWSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
- C08F2/00—Processes of polymerisation
- C08F2/32—Polymerisation in water-in-oil emulsions
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
- C08F220/00—Copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and only one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical or a salt, anhydride ester, amide, imide or nitrile thereof
- C08F220/02—Monocarboxylic acids having less than ten carbon atoms; Derivatives thereof
- C08F220/10—Esters
- C08F220/20—Esters of polyhydric alcohols or phenols, e.g. 2-hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate or glycerol mono-(meth)acrylate
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
- C08F220/00—Copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and only one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical or a salt, anhydride ester, amide, imide or nitrile thereof
- C08F220/02—Monocarboxylic acids having less than ten carbon atoms; Derivatives thereof
- C08F220/10—Esters
- C08F220/26—Esters containing oxygen in addition to the carboxy oxygen
- C08F220/28—Esters containing oxygen in addition to the carboxy oxygen containing no aromatic rings in the alcohol moiety
- C08F220/285—Esters containing oxygen in addition to the carboxy oxygen containing no aromatic rings in the alcohol moiety and containing a polyether chain in the alcohol moiety
- C08F220/286—Esters containing oxygen in addition to the carboxy oxygen containing no aromatic rings in the alcohol moiety and containing a polyether chain in the alcohol moiety and containing polyethylene oxide in the alcohol moiety, e.g. methoxy polyethylene glycol (meth)acrylate
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
- C08F220/00—Copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and only one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical or a salt, anhydride ester, amide, imide or nitrile thereof
- C08F220/02—Monocarboxylic acids having less than ten carbon atoms; Derivatives thereof
- C08F220/52—Amides or imides
- C08F220/54—Amides, e.g. N,N-dimethylacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide
- C08F220/60—Amides, e.g. N,N-dimethylacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide containing nitrogen in addition to the carbonamido nitrogen
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
- C08F222/00—Copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule; Salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides, or nitriles thereof
- C08F222/10—Esters
- C08F222/1006—Esters of polyhydric alcohols or polyhydric phenols
- C08F222/102—Esters of polyhydric alcohols or polyhydric phenols of dialcohols, e.g. ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which is in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type comprising at least one thickener of crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte type, and intended to be used for facilitating the combing of locks of hair.
- the scalp is protected by a hydrolipid film, located at the surface of the epidermis, and consisting of sebum and sweat.
- This hydrolipid film protects the scalp against external attacking factors and dehydration.
- This hydrolipid film which acts as a lubricant, spreads along the hair stalk and also protects the hair, by smoothing the hair fiber scales and thus making the hair shiny and supple.
- the cornified layer dries out and loses its suppleness, which causes skin discomfort which is manifested by the appearance of irritation, redness and tautness.
- the hair follicles of frizzy hair types produce little sebum. This is why this frizzy hair type is often dry and dehydrated. It is thus necessary to “nourish” it several times a week, with creams or oils, thus supplying fatty phases to the dry areas of the scalp.
- the purpose of treating the hair after washing with shampoos is to make the hair manageable, to reduce the dryness of the scalp, to reduce the brittleness of the hair, to improve the sheen of the hair, and to facilitate the combing and/or disentangling of the hair.
- conditioners as an emulsion; notably emulsions of oil-in-water type or water-in-silicone type which contain cationic compounds.
- compositions for treating dry hair and the scalp more particularly for frizzy hair, to improve the ease of styling of the hair, to reduce the dryness of the scalp, to reduce the brittleness of the hair, to improve the sheen of the hair, and more particularly to facilitate the combing and/or disentangling of the hair.
- fatty phases which are silicone derivatives, and which may be used either directly on the hair, or in the form of an oily mixture containing same, or in the form of an emulsion containing same.
- Emulsions are preferred forms since they also make it possible to convey both the water-soluble substances and liposoluble substances that are commonly used in these applications.
- a distinction is made between oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions in which the continuous phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase, and the dispersed phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions in which the continuous phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase and the dispersed phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase.
- O/W oil-in-water
- W/O water-in-oil
- Oil-in-water emulsions are intrinsically more stable than water-in-oil emulsions; water-in-oil emulsions nevertheless have a number of advantages. Specifically, the separation between the water droplets reduces the possibility of the proliferation of microorganisms. Furthermore, the use of preserving agents, which is essential when the continuous phase is aqueous, can be avoided or reduced when the continuous phase is fatty. Water-in-oil emulsions are far less sensitive to low temperature than oil-in-water emulsions.
- EP 1961455 A1 discloses that an oily continuous phase makes it possible to cover the skin after application of the water-in-oil emulsion, which protects the skin from dehydration and against external substances by forming a persistent oily film, thus making it possible to treat dry skin.
- the technical problem is thus that of developing a novel composition in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type which is not characterized by the drawbacks presented above, which remains homogeneous at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C. after storage for a minimum of three months, and which can facilitate the combing and/or disentangling of the hair.
- composition (C1) which is in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type comprising, per 100% of its mass:
- a gelled aqueous phase comprising at least one crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte which comprises a proportion of greater than or equal to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC).
- AMPTAC 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride
- ATAC N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride
- a fatty phase comprising at least one oil and an emulsifying system comprising a combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S) selected from the elements of the group consisting of compositions of alkylpolyglycosides, compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.
- S emulsifying surfactant
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte denotes a nonlinear crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte, which is in the form of a three-dimensional network which is insoluble in water but swellable in water and which leads to the production of a chemical gel.
- the term “oil” denotes a compound and/or a mixture of compounds which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25° C., and more particularly:
- Z 1 and Z 2 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 5 to 18 carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether or dihexyl ether;
- R′ 1 —(C ⁇ O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms
- R′2 represents, independently of R′ 1 , a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain including from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl my
- R′ 3 (C ⁇ O), R′ 4 —(C ⁇ O), R′ 5 —(C ⁇ O) and R′ 6 —(C ⁇ O), which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a wax.
- the cosmetic composition (C1) according to the invention comprises a wax
- said wax is more particularly chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; plant waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; glycerides that are solid at room temperature.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the elements of the group consisting of castor oil, liquid paraffins, olive oil, cocoyl caprylate/caprate, isopropyl myristate and capric/caprylic triglyceride.
- composition according to the invention may have one or more of the characteristics below:
- the gelled aqueous phase (A1) comprises, per 100% of its mass, from 0.1% to 7% by mass of a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) and from 93% to 99.9% by mass of water, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass of a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) and from 95% to 99.5% by mass of water, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by mass of a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) and from 97% to 99.5% by mass of water,
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte comprises, per 100 mol %:
- a1) from 5 mol % to 60 mol %, preferably from 40 mol % to 60 mol % and even more preferentially from 45 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), a2) from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol %, preferably from 0.1 mol % to 3 mol % and even more preferentially from 0.5 mol % to 3 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer of formula (VI):
- R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20; a3) from 35 mol % to 94.9 mol %, preferably from 37 mol % to 59.9 mol % and even more preferentially from 37 mol % to 54.5 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one neutral monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; a4) a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 1 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units according to a1), a2), a3) and
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) comprises, per 100 mol %, from 5 mol % to 60 mol %, more particularly from 40 mol % to 60 mol % and even more particularly from 45 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC);
- said neutral monomer is chosen from acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; the neutral monomer will preferably be 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate;
- p represents an integer between 2 and 9, for instance 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl or 2-octyldodecyl radicals;
- m represents an integer between 2 and 16, for instance 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl or 16-methylheptadecyl radicals, or 2-hexyloctyl, 2-octyldecyl or 2-hexyldodecyl radicals;
- R represents an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
- R represents an alkyl radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl radicals;
- n represents an integer greater than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 20;
- said monomer of formula (VI) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate
- said monomer of formula (VI) is eicosaethoxylated stearyl methacrylate
- crosslinking monomer (AR) is used in a molar proportion of less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% and most particularly less than or equal to 0.1%; it is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005 mol %;
- said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte is chosen from terpolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or terpolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of eicosaethoxylated stearyl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate;
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate;
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) includes, per 100 mol %:
- said emulsifying system (S) consists of an alkylpolyglycoside composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
- composition (C 1 ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII 1 ), (VII 2 ), (VII 3 ), (VII 4 ) and (VII 5 ):
- said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C3) comprising, per 100% of its mass:
- composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII 1 ), (VII 2 ), (VII 3 ), (VII 4 ) and (VII 5 ):
- R′ 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical
- said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C4) comprising, per 100% of its mass:
- composition (C 1 ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII 1 ), (VII 2 ), (VII 3 ), (VII 4 ) and (VII 5 ):
- y 2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50
- R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical
- Z 2 represents a radical of formula (XII):
- y′ 2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′ 2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, where Z 2 ′ may be identical to or different from Z 2 , or a hydrogen atom.
- At least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR) notably denotes, in the definition of said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP), a monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of methylenebis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or a salt thereof, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, or a mixture of these compounds; and more particularly a monomer chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate or methylenebis(acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) used in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared by performing a radical polymerization process known to those skilled in the art, for instance processes of solution polymerization, suspension polymerization, inverse suspension polymerization, emulsion polymerization, inverse emulsion polymerization or polymerization in solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed.
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) used in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared by performing a process of polymerization in solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed, or of inverse emulsion polymerization optionally followed by a step of concentration and/or atomization.
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) used in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared according to one of the processes described above and may involve the use of transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.
- the transfer agents or chain-limiting agents are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of sodium hypophosphite, alcohols of low molecular weight, for example methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol or butanol, thiols, for example 2-mercaptoethanol, transfer agents comprising a sulfate function, for example sodium methallylsulfonate, or mixtures of said transfer agents.
- the transfer agents or chain-limiting agents are more particularly used in molar proportions, expressed relative to the total number of moles of monomers used, of from 0.001 mol % to 1 mol %, more particularly from 0.001 mol % to 0.5 mol %, and most particularly from 0.001 mol % to 0.1 mol %.
- alkylpolyglycoside composition denotes a composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
- composition (C2) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII 1 ), (VII 2 ), (VII 3 ), (VII 4 ) and (VII 5 ):
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical including from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups denotes, for the radical R 1 in formula (VII) as defined above:
- r represents an integer between 8 and 20, for example isodecyl, isoundecyl, isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl, isohexadecyl, isopentadecyl, isooctadecyl, isononadecyl, isoeicosyl or isodocosyl radicals; branched alkyl radicals, derived from Guerbet alcohols, of formula (2):
- t is an integer between 6 and 18, s is an integer between 4 and 18 and the sum s+t is greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 22, for example 2-butyloctyl, 2-butyldecyl, 2-hexyloctyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-dodecylhexadecyl and 2-tetradecyloctadecyl radicals.
- 2-butyloctyl 2-butyldecyl, 2-hexyloctyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-dodecylhexadecy
- R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical including from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
- reducing sugar in the definition of formula (VII) as defined above denotes saccharide derivatives that do not have in their structures any glycoside bonds established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined in the reference publication: “Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet/Judith G. Voet, page 250, John Wiley & Sons, 1990.
- the oligomeric structure (G) x may be in any isomeric form, whether it is optical isomerism, geometrical isomerism or regioisomerism; it may also represent a mixture of isomers.
- G represents a reducing sugar residue chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose; and more particularly G represents a reducing sugar residue chosen from glucose, xylose and arabinose residues.
- x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0 and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
- R 1 represents the radical chosen from at least one of the elements of the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals; G represents a reducing sugar residue chosen from glucose and xylose residues and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
- alkylpolyglycoside and fatty alcohol composition denotes a composition (C3) comprising, per 100% of its mass:
- R′ 1 which may be identical to or different from R 1 , represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, including from 12 to 36 carbon atoms.
- R 1 represents the radical chosen from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals
- G represents a reducing sugar residue chosen from glucose and xylose residues and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
- R 1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical
- G represents a xylose residue
- x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.
- R′ 1 represents a radical chosen from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals, R′ 1 most particularly represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical.
- polyglycerol ester denotes a compound of formula (IX):
- Z represents an acyl radical of formula R 2 —C( ⁇ O)—
- R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, including from 11 to 35 carbon atoms and more particularly a radical chosen from dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl and isostearyl radicals
- Z′ represents the acyl radical of formula R 2 —C( ⁇ O)— as defined above, with Z′, which may be identical to or different from Z, or a hydrogen atom, and y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.
- the compound of formula (IX) is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl isostearate, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monolinoleate and decaglyceryl monomyristate.
- alkoxylated polyglycerol ester denotes a compound of formula (X):
- Z 1 represents an acyl radical of formula R′ 2 —C( ⁇ O)—
- R′ 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon-based radical, including from 11 to 35 carbon atoms, and more particularly a radical chosen from dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl and isostearyl radicals
- Z 1 ′ represents the acyl radical of formula R′ 2 —C( ⁇ O)— as defined above, with Z 1 ′, which may be identical to or different from Z 1 , or a hydrogen atom
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical
- y 1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20, v 1 ,
- polyglycol polyhydroxystearate denotes a compound of formula (XI):
- y 2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50
- R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical
- Z 2 represents a radical of formula (XII):
- y′ 2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10 and Z′ 2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, with Z 2 ′ which may be identical to or different from Z 2 , or a hydrogen atom.
- polyglyceryl polyhydroxystearate denotes a compound represented by formula (XIII):
- Z 3 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above
- Z′ 3 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above
- Z 3 ′ which may be identical to or different from Z 3
- y 3 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.
- alkoxylated polyglyceryl polyhydroxystearate denotes a compound represented by formula (XIV):
- Z 4 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above
- Z′ 4 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above
- Z 4 ′ which may be identical to or different from Z 4 , or a hydrogen atom
- y 4 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20
- v′ 1 , v′ 2 and v′ 3 which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 50
- the sum [(y 4 . v′ 1 )+(y 4 . v′ 2 )+v′ 3 )] is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.
- polyethylene glycol-alkylglycol copolymer denotes a compound represented by formula (XV):
- w 1 and w′ 1 which may be identical or different, represent an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 25, w 2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 100, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.
- a subject of the present invention is also a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) comprising, per 100 mol %:
- cationic monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC),
- APTAC N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride
- R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20;
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) may have one or more of the following features:
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) for which the cationic monomer units are derived from N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC),
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) for which the monomer units derived from a neutral monomer are chosen from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate or 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate.
- the neutral monomer is 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) for which, in said monomer of formula (VI), R represents an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and even more particularly R represents an alkyl radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl radicals,
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) for which, in said monomer of formula (VI), n represents an integer greater than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 20,
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) for which said monomer of formula (VI) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate or eicosaethoxylated stearyl methacrylate,
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) is chosen from terpolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or terpolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of eicosaethoxylated stearyl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate,
- ATAC terpolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amine]propan
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate,
- APITAC N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride
- crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) includes, per 100 mol %:
- the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) that is a subject of the present invention is prepared by performing processes of solution polymerization, suspension polymerization, inverse suspension polymerization, emulsion polymerization, inverse emulsion polymerization, polymerization in solvent medium followed by a step of precipitating the polymer formed, as described previously for the preparation of the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP).
- a subject of the invention is also the use of the composition (C1) as defined previously for improving the combing of locks of hair.
- a subject of the invention is the use of the composition (C1) as defined previously for improving the combing of the ends of hair strands.
- composition (C1) that is a subject of the present invention as defined previously is intended to be applied to the hair and/or the scalp directly or indirectly, for instance via any type of support intended to be placed in contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc.).
- This step of applying the composition (C1) according to the invention takes place after at least one step of washing said hair and is followed by at least one rinsing step; this step of applying the composition (C1) according to the invention is followed by another step of rinsing, and optionally of drying the hair thus washed, treated and rinsed.
- composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention may be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a device of “pump-bottle” type, in a device equipped with a perforated wall, for example a grille, or in a device equipped with a ball applicator (known as a “roll-on”).
- composition (C1) that is a subject of the present invention may also include excipients and/or active principles commonly used in the field of formulations intended to be applied to the hair or the scalp.
- composition (C1) as defined previously also comprises one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and/or detergent surfactants, thickening and/or gelling surfactants, thickening and/or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, nacreous agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preserving agents, conditioning agents, deodorants, bleaching agents intended for bleaching bodily hair and the skin, active principles intended to provide a treating and/or protective action to the skin or the hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles that give a visual effect or that are intended for encapsulating active agents, exfoliant particles, texturing agents, optical brighteners and insect repellents.
- auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and/or detergent surfactants, thickening and/or gelling surfactants, thickening and/or gel
- foaming and/or detergent surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of topically acceptable anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming and/or detergent surfactants commonly used in this field of activity.
- foaming and/or detergent anionic surfactants that may be combined with the cosmetic composition (C1) that is a subject of the present invention
- foaming and/or detergent amphoteric surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
- foaming and/or detergent cationic surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made particularly of quaternary ammonium derivatives.
- foaming and/or detergent nonionic surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of alkylpolyglycosides including a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical and including from 8 to 12 carbon atoms; castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, coconut kernel amides and N-alkylamines.
- thickening and/or gelling surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of:
- emulsifying surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.
- emulsifying nonionic surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention
- fatty acid esters of sorbitol for example the products sold under the names MontaneTM 80 and MontaneTM 85 and MontaneTM 60
- ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil for example the product sold under the name SimulsolTM 989
- compositions comprising glyceryl stearate and stearic acid poly(ethoxylated) with between 5 mol and 150 mol of ethylene oxide for example the composition comprising stearic acid (ethoxylated) with 135 mol of ethylene oxide and glyceryl stearate sold under the name SimulsolTM 165
- ethoxylated sorbitan esters for example the products sold under the name MontanoxTM
- mannitan esters ethoxylated mannitan esters
- sucrose esters for example the products sold under the
- emulsifying anionic surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention
- decyl phosphate cetyl phosphate sold under the name AmphisolTM, glyceryl stearate citrate; cetearyl sulfate; the arachidyl/behenyl phosphates and arachidyl/behenyl alcohols composition sold under the name SensanovTM WR; soaps, for example sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, or N-acylated derivatives of amino acids which are salified, for instance stearoyl glutamate.
- emulsifying cationic surfactants that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention
- opacifiers and/or nacreous agents that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention
- N-acylamino acid derivatives for example lauroyl lysine sold under the name AminohopeTM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DryfloTM, myristyl polyglucoside sold under the name Montanov 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite and mica.
- organic solvents for example glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, and mixtures of water and
- Examples of active principles that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) which is a subject of the present invention include:
- thickening and/or gelling agents that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) according to the invention
- thickening and/or gelling agents that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) according to the invention, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharide derivatives, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids, and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic exudates and karaya gum exudates, and glucosaminoglycans.
- monosaccharide derivatives such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids, and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic exudates and karaya gum exudates, and glucosamino
- stabilizers that may be present in the cosmetic composition (C1) according to the invention, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly of ozokerite, and mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride.
- thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg/l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizines water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water and Tercis-les-Bains water.
- the cosmetic composition (C1) according to the invention and as defined previously is obtained by performing the preparation process comprising the following steps:
- a step a) of preparing the fatty phase (A 2 ) by mixing all of the elements constituting it in the desired proportions is generally performed at a temperature of greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 80° C., more particularly greater than or equal to 25° C. and less than or equal to 80° C., and even more particularly greater than or equal to 30° C. and less than or equal to 80° C.; it is performed with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed of greater than or equal to 50 rpm and less than or equal to 100 rpm;
- This mixing step is generally performed at a temperature of greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 80° C., more particularly greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 60° C., and even more particularly greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 40° C.; it is performed with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed of greater than or equal to 500 rpm and less than or equal to 3000 rpm;
- the aqueous phase (A 1 ) obtained on conclusion of step b) has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 20° C.
- composition according to the invention and less than or equal to 60° C., and even more particularly greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 40° C., with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed of greater than or equal to 50 rpm and less than or equal to 400 rpm, so as to obtain the composition according to the invention.
- a Self-Invertible Inverse Latex of the Copolymer APTAC/HEA/MAL(40E) (49.76/49.76/0.48) Crosslinked with MBA is Prepared as follows: The following are placed a beaker, with stirring: 151.0 g of permuted water; 147.9 g of hydroxyethyl acrylate; 351.0 g of a commercial solution containing 75% acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); 0.224 g of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate; 0.45 g of a commercial aqueous solution containing 40% sodium salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid.
- An oil phase is prepared by successively mixing: 259 g of isohexadecane 20 g of sorbitan isostearate (sold under the brand name MontaneTM 70 by the company SEPPIC) 5 g of HypermerTM 2296 (sold by the company Croda) 5 g of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate [MAL(40E)] 0.1 g of azobis(isobutyronitrile) (AIBN).
- the aqueous phase is gradually incorporated into the organic phase and then subjected to vigorous mechanical stirring using an Ultra-TurraxTM turbomixer, to form an inverse emulsion (water/oil). The emulsion is then cooled to about 10° C.
- the polymerization is then initiated by incorporating therein 10 cm 3 of a solution of cumene hydroperoxide at 0.68% by weight in isohexadecane. After homogenization of the medium, 25 g of an aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfite at 0.1% by weight are added while allowing the temperature of the mixture to rise to the final polymerization temperature followed by stirring for 90 minutes. The resulting mixture is then cooled to about 35° C., and 40 g of lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with 7 mol (SimulsolTM P7) are then added. The desired self-invertible inverse latex (LI1) is obtained.
- Polyelectrolyte content about 27.5% by weight
- a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention denoted (F 1 ), the mass proportions of the constituents of which are collated in table 1 below, the mass contents of the polyelectrolytes being indicated as a percentage of polymeric solids, is prepared by performing the following process:
- the constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, and mixed at a temperature of 20° C. using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a impeller-type stirring head at a speed of 100 rpm.
- the glycerol and water are mixed at room temperature in a beaker using a mechanical stirrer at a speed of 2000 rpm and the thickener is then added gradually.
- the stirring is maintained for a duration which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous phase which is in the form of a homogeneous gel.
- the fatty phase is added in a single portion to the aqueous gel at room temperature and at a moderate stirring speed (75 to 300 rpm) using a stirrer equipped with an anchor-type stirring head. This stirring is then maintained for 10 minutes and no cooling step is necessary.
- the conductivity ( ⁇ ) of the comparative emulsions (F′ 1 ) to (F′ 3 ) is measured at 20° C., after a period of storage of said emulsions of one day in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., by means of an LF 196TM brand conductivity meter from the company WTW equipped with a TetraConTM 96 electrode.
- ( ⁇ ) ⁇ 0.5 ⁇ S ⁇ cm ⁇ 1 the emulsion is considered to be non-conductive and consequently the external phase is not the aqueous phase but the oily phase, and said emulsion is of water-in-oil type.
- the emulsions (F 1 ) according to the invention and the comparative emulsions (F′ 1 ) to (F′ 3 ) are stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., for 7 days. On conclusion of this 7-day period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed. The emulsions are then returned and stored in the same insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., for up to 3 months. After this period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed.
- Treatment of the locks of hair moistened with the emulsion (F 1 ) according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the combing force by 87.8% between the untreated locks (0.98 N) and the locks treated with the emulsion (F 1 ) (0.12 N), whereas the comparative emulsion (F′ 1 ), which differs from the emulsion (F 1 ) only by the nature of the crosslinked polyelectrolyte used, does not allow a decrease in the combing force of 61.1% (control combing force of 1.26 N and combing force for the locks treated with (F′ 1 ) of 0.49 N).
- the comparative water-in-oil emulsion (F′ 2 ) which differs by the absence of polyelectrolyte in its formulation, does not make it possible to reduce the combing force by a value of 59.6% (control combing force of 1.18 N and combing force for the locks treated with (F′ 2 ) of 0.47 N).
- treatment of the locks of hair with the emulsion (F 1 ) makes it possible to obtain less combing force at the ends of the locks: 13.1 newtons for the locks of hair treated with the emulsion (F 1 ) as opposed to 45.7 newtons for the locks of hair treated with the comparative emulsion (F′ 2 ).
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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- Birds (AREA)
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- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
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Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1859055 | 2018-10-01 | ||
FR1859055A FR3086541B1 (fr) | 2018-10-01 | 2018-10-01 | Composition cosmetique sous forme d'emulsion eau-dans-huile pour ameliorer le peignage de meches de cheveux |
PCT/FR2019/052255 WO2020070410A1 (fr) | 2018-10-01 | 2019-09-25 | Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile destinée au traitement de cheveux pour améliorer leur peignage |
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US20210346250A1 true US20210346250A1 (en) | 2021-11-11 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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US17/283,193 Pending US20210346250A1 (en) | 2018-10-01 | 2019-09-25 | Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for treating hair to improve combing |
Country Status (8)
Country | Link |
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US (1) | US20210346250A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3860719B1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP7478724B2 (fr) |
KR (1) | KR20210069660A (fr) |
CN (1) | CN112955227B (fr) |
BR (1) | BR112021005616B1 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3086541B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2020070410A1 (fr) |
Family Cites Families (7)
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FR2721607B1 (fr) | 1994-06-28 | 1996-10-31 | Seppic Sa | Nouveaux dérivés d'ammoniums quaternaires, leur procédé de préparation et leur utilisation comme agents de surface. |
EP1002569A3 (fr) * | 1998-11-19 | 2000-09-06 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Compositions du genre eau dans l'huile contenant des polymères cationiques |
JP2001002925A (ja) * | 1999-06-21 | 2001-01-09 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 高内水相油中水型乳化化粧料 |
FR2851251B1 (fr) * | 2003-02-13 | 2005-04-08 | Seppic Sa | Nouveaux epaississants cationiques, procede pour leur preparation et composition en contenant |
FR2861397B1 (fr) | 2003-10-22 | 2006-01-20 | Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic | Nouveau latex inverse concentre, procede pour sa preparation et utilisation dans l'industrie |
FR2912651A1 (fr) | 2007-02-21 | 2008-08-22 | Oreal | Emulsion e/h pour le soin de la peau. |
JP2013063959A (ja) | 2011-08-29 | 2013-04-11 | Seiwa Kasei Co Ltd | W/o型乳化毛髪化粧料 |
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2018
- 2018-10-01 FR FR1859055A patent/FR3086541B1/fr active Active
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2019
- 2019-09-25 WO PCT/FR2019/052255 patent/WO2020070410A1/fr unknown
- 2019-09-25 JP JP2021515572A patent/JP7478724B2/ja active Active
- 2019-09-25 KR KR1020217012164A patent/KR20210069660A/ko unknown
- 2019-09-25 EP EP19795266.6A patent/EP3860719B1/fr active Active
- 2019-09-25 BR BR112021005616-5A patent/BR112021005616B1/pt active IP Right Grant
- 2019-09-25 CN CN201980071106.1A patent/CN112955227B/zh active Active
- 2019-09-25 US US17/283,193 patent/US20210346250A1/en active Pending
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Publication number | Publication date |
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BR112021005616B1 (pt) | 2023-12-05 |
JP7478724B2 (ja) | 2024-05-07 |
FR3086541B1 (fr) | 2021-10-08 |
CN112955227A (zh) | 2021-06-11 |
JP2022501380A (ja) | 2022-01-06 |
FR3086541A1 (fr) | 2020-04-03 |
EP3860719A1 (fr) | 2021-08-11 |
KR20210069660A (ko) | 2021-06-11 |
WO2020070410A1 (fr) | 2020-04-09 |
EP3860719B1 (fr) | 2023-02-08 |
CN112955227B (zh) | 2023-07-18 |
BR112021005616A2 (pt) | 2021-06-22 |
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