Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
  • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
  • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/91—Graft copolymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F265/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers of unsaturated monocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof as defined in group C08F20/00
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F265/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers of unsaturated monocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof as defined in group C08F20/00
  • C08F265/04—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers of unsaturated monocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof as defined in group C08F20/00 on to polymers of esters
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F283/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers provided for in subclass C08G
  • C08F283/06—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers provided for in subclass C08G on to polyethers, polyoxymethylenes or polyacetals
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
  • C08F290/02—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated end groups
  • C08F290/04—Polymers provided for in subclasses C08C or C08F
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
  • C08F290/02—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated end groups
  • C08F290/06—Polymers provided for in subclass C08G
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08F—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
  • C08F290/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups
  • C08F290/02—Macromolecular compounds obtained by polymerising monomers on to polymers modified by introduction of aliphatic unsaturated end or side groups on to polymers modified by introduction of unsaturated end groups
  • C08F290/06—Polymers provided for in subclass C08G
  • C08F290/068—Polysiloxanes
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L51/00—Compositions of graft polymers in which the grafted component is obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • C08L51/003—Compositions of graft polymers in which the grafted component is obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers grafted on to macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L51/00—Compositions of graft polymers in which the grafted component is obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • C08L51/08—Compositions of graft polymers in which the grafted component is obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers grafted on to macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising a particular polymer and intended for application to the skin of human beings.
• composition according to the invention may be a makeup composition or a care composition for the skin, and preferably a makeup composition.
• the makeup composition may be a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer, an eyeliner or a body makeup product. More especially, the invention relates to a foundation composition.
• the care composition may be a face and body skincare product, in particular a sun product, or a skin colouring product (such as a self-tanning product).
• Foundation compositions are commonly used to give the skin, in particular the face, an aesthetic colour.
• These makeup products generally contain oils, pigments and/or fillers and optionally additives, such as cosmetic or dermatological actives.
• compositions when they are applied to the skin, exhibit the disadvantage of transferring, i.e. of undergoing at least partial deposition, leaving marks, on certain substrates with which they may be contacted, and in particular a glass, cup, cigarette, item of clothing, or the skin.
• a consequence of this is mediocre persistence of the applied film, making it necessary regularly to renew the application of the lipstick or foundation composition.
• the appearance of these unacceptable marks, particularly on blouse collars may put certain women off using this type of makeup.
• sebum excreted by the skin over the course of time also alters the properties of the makeup.
• sebum does not promote the adhesion of the makeup to the skin, and the transfer of the makeup is even greater, giving rise to a substantial loss of the makeup remaining on the skin.
• Transfer-free skin makeup compositions are therefore sought which exhibit the advantage of forming a transfer-resistant deposit, especially in the presence of sebum, and especially compositions which do not undergo at least partial deposition onto substrates with which they are contacted (glass, clothing, cigarettes, fabrics).
• the inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain such a composition by using a particular polymer.
• the present invention provides a makeup or skincare cosmetic composition
• a makeup or skincare cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of particles, preferably solid particles, of a grafted ethylenic polymer in a liquid fatty phase as described below, the composition being in particular as defined below.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is such that, when it is present in sufficient quantity in the composition, that composition is capable of forming a deposit having a transfer index in the presence of sebum of less than 4.
• the invention also provides a method of making up the skin which comprises applying to the keratin materials, in particular to the skin, a composition as defined above.
• the invention further provides for the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a deposit, in particular a makeup deposit, on the skin that has good transfer resistance, especially in the presence of sebum.
• the invention additionally provides for the use, in a cosmetic composition, of a dispersion of particles (preferably solid particles) of a grafted ethylenic polymer in dispersion in a liquid fatty phase, the composition being capable in particular of forming a deposit having a transfer index in the presence of sebum of less than 4, for obtaining a deposit, in particular a makeup deposit, on the skin that exhibits good transfer resistance, especially in the presence of sebum.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer used in the composition according to the invention is such that, when it is present in sufficient quantity in the composition, that composition is capable of forming a deposit having a transfer index in the presence of sebum of less than 4, in particular less than or equal to 3.5, preferably less than or equal to 3, in particular less than or equal to 2.5, preferentially less than or equal to 2, more preferentially less than or equal to 1.5, and in particular less than or equal to 1.
• the transfer index in the presence of sebum of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention is determined in accordance with the measuring protocol described below.
• a substrate square of 40 mm ⁇ 40 mm
• a layer of neoprene foam which is adhesive on one of its faces (sold under the name RE70X40 212B from Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind) is prepared.
• An adhesive crown having an internal diameter of 24 mm and a thickness of approximately 250 ⁇ m is affixed to the non-adhesive face of the substrate.
• the composition is applied inside the crown and is levelled off with a glass slide so as to give a deposit of the composition approximately 250 ⁇ m thick, and then the crown is withdrawn and the deposit is left to dry in an oven at 37° C. for 20 hours.
• the substrate is subsequently bonded by its adhesive face to an endpiece with a diameter of 27 mm which is fixed on a press (Statif Manuel SV-1 from Imada Co. Ltd.) which is equipped with a dynamometer (DPS-5R from Imada Co. Ltd.)
• a press Statif Manuel SV-1 from Imada Co. Ltd.
• a dynamometer DPS-5R from Imada Co. Ltd.
• a piece of photo-quality coated paper reference Epson S041061, 102 g/m 2
• a strip is drawn which is 4 cm wide and 21 cm long, and within this strip 5 boxes each 4.2 cm long are drawn along the longitudinal axis of the strip.
• the paper is placed on the bed of the press.
• the substrate (comprising the sample of composition) is then pressed onto the first box of the paper strip, with a force of approximately 4 kg exerted for 5 seconds.
• the paper is then displaced in a regular, rectilinear fashion over the entire length of the strip, in such a way that the substrate is in contact with the entire length of the strip.
• the speed of displacement of the strip is of the order of 10 cm/s.
• a grade ranging from 0 to 5 in increments of 0.5 is awarded as a function of the number of boxes, from the first to the fifth, which have been traversed, where appropriate, completely or partly by the trail of product.
• a visualization step may be necessary in order to make the trail of product visible.
• a compound is used which is able to produce a coloured reaction on contact with the transferred product.
• an active which emits in the visible range at least some of a UV radiation (Wood lamp) is incorporated into the product under test.
• Grade 5 is awarded when, by observation, after the relative displacement between paper and substrate has taken place, there is substantially no product (less than 10%) remaining on the substrate. In this case, the transfer may be termed total.
• Grade 5 is also awarded when the trail of product extends beyond the fifth box, independently of the amount of product remaining on the substrate.
• Grade 0 is awarded when no product present on the support is transferred to the strip of paper. No visible trace can be observed on the sheet. The transfer may be termed zero.
• box n By convention, the line of separation between box n and box n+1 forms part of box n.
• the table below illustrates the way in which the other grades are awarded as a function of the point in boxes 1 to 5 at which the trail of product ends. For these grades, a larger or smaller amount of product remains on the substrate. The transfer is partial. Grade No. of the box at More Up to which the trail than half half of of product stops of the box the box 5 4.5 4 4 3.5 3 3 2.5 2 2 1.5 1 1 0.5
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a dispersion of particles, preferably solid particles, of a grafted ethylenic polymer in a liquid fatty phase.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a composition which is compatible with keratin materials, and particularly with the skin.
• ethylenic polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer dispersion is free in particular of stabilizing polymers other than the said grafted polymer, such as those described in EP 749 747, and the particles of grafted ethylenic polymer are therefore not surface-stabilized by such additional stabilizing polymers.
• the grafted polymer is therefore dispersed in the liquid fatty phase in the absence of additional stabilizer on the surface of the particles of the grafted polymer.
• grafted polymer a polymer having a skeleton comprising at least one side chain which is pendent or situated at the chain end, preferably pendent.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer comprises an ethylenic skeleton which is insoluble in the said liquid fatty phase, and side chains bonded covalently to the said skeleton and soluble in the said dispersion medium.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is in particular a non-crosslinked polymer.
• the polymer is obtained by polymerizing monomers containing a single polymerizable moiety.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is a film-forming polymer.
• film-forming polymer is meant a polymer suitable for forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film which adheres to a substrate, particularly to keratin materials.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is a grafted acrylic polymer.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is obtainable in particular by free-radical polymerization in an organic polymerization medium:
• At least one ethylenic monomer in particular at least one acrylic monomer and, optionally, at least one additional, non-acrylic, vinyl monomer, to form the said insoluble skeleton;
• the said macromonomer having a weight-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 200, the amount of polymerized macromonomer representing from 0.05% to 20% by weight of the polymer.
• the liquid fatty phase may contain the organic polymerization medium.
• the liquid organic dispersion medium corresponding to the medium in which the grafted polymer is provided, may be identical to the polymerization medium.
• the polymerization medium may be wholly or partly substituted by another liquid organic medium.
• This other liquid organic medium may be added after polymerization to the polymerization medium. The latter is then wholly or partly evaporated.
• the liquid fatty phase may comprise organic liquid compounds other than those present in the dispersion medium. These other compounds are selected such that the grafted polymer remains in the state of dispersion in the liquid fatty phase.
• the organic liquid dispersion medium is present in the liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention owing to the introduction of the grafted polymer dispersion obtained into the composition.
• the liquid fatty phase comprises, preferably on a majority basis, one or more liquid organic compounds (or oils) as defined below.
• the liquid fatty phase is a liquid organic phase which is non-aqueous and water-immiscible at ambient temperature (25° C.).
• a “liquid organic compound” is a non-aqueous compound which is in the liquid state at ambient temperature (25° C.) and which therefore flows under its own weight.
• a “silicone compound” is a compound containing at least one silicon atom.
• liquid organic compounds or oils in particular volatile or non-volatile, that may be present in the liquid organic dispersion medium, mention may be made of:
• liquid organic compounds especially silicone-based or non-silicone-based, having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 18 (MPa) 1/2 and preferably less than or equal to 17 (MPa) 1/2 ,
• monoalcohols having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa) 1/2 , and
• d D characterizes the London dispersion forces arising from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts
• d P characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles
• d H characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.).
• liquid organic compounds especially silicone-based or non-silicone-based, having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 18 (MPa) 1/2
• oils which may be selected from natural or synthetic, carbon-based, hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and silicone oils, which are optionally branched, alone or as a mixture.
• An “oil” is any non-aqueous medium which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and is compatible with application to the skin, mucosae (lips) and/or epidermal derivatives (nails, eyebrows, eyelashes, hair).
• oils formed from fatty acid esters and from polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower oil, sesame oil or rapeseed oil, or esters derived from acids or alcohols containing a long chain (i.e. a chain containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms), in particular the esters of formula RCOOR′ in which R represents a higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R′ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates and benzoates, in particular diisopropyl adipate.
• triglycerides such as sunflower oil, sesame oil or rapeseed oil
• esters derived from acids or alcohols containing a long chain i.e. a chain containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms
• RCOOR′ in which R represents a higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R′ represents a hydrocarbon-based
• Mention may also be made of linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which may be volatile, and in particular liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly or hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isododecane or “Isopars”, volatile isoparaffins. Mention may also be made of esters, ethers and ketones.
• silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, which are optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, and volatile silicone oils, which are especially cyclic.
• volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips in less than one hour, and especially having a vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa).
• volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
• non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned are non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially of C 8 -C 20 ), fatty alcohols (especially of C 8 -C 20 ) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene); amino polysiloxanes;
• ketones containing at least 6 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 30 carbon atoms are especially 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
• liquid monoalcohols having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa) 1/2 means aliphatic fatty liquid monoalcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon-based chain not comprising a substitution group.
• Monoalcohols according to the invention that may be mentioned include oleyl alcohol, decanol and linoleyl alcohol.
• the composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil in an amount ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
• the composition may comprise a non-volatile oil in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight.
• the liquid fatty phase may be a non-silicone-based liquid fatty phase.
• non-silicone-based liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase comprising one or more non-silicone-based liquid organic compound(s) or oil(s), such as those mentioned above, the said non-silicone compounds being predominantly present in the liquid fatty phase, i.e. to at least 50% by weight, especially from 50% to 100% by weight, preferably from 60% to 100% by weight (for example from 60% to 99% by weight), or alternatively from 65% to 100% by weight (for example from 65% to 95% by weight), relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
• the non-silicone-based liquid organic compounds may especially be selected from:
• non-silicone-based liquid organic compounds having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 18 (MPa) 1/2 ,
• monoalcohols having a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa) 1/2 ;
• the said non-silicone-based liquid fatty phase may thus optionally comprise silicone-based liquid organic compounds or oils, such as those mentioned previously, which may be present in an amount of less than 50% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, or even ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, or alternatively ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
• the non-silicone-based liquid fatty phase does not contain any silicone-based liquid organic compounds or oils.
• the macromonomers present in the grafted polymer are advantageously carbon-based macromonomers as described below.
• non-silicone-based grafted polymer means a grafted polymer predominantly containing a carbon-based macromonomer and optionally containing not more than 7% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, and preferably not more than 5% by weight, of silicone macromonomer, or even being free of silicone macromonomer.
• the liquid fatty phase may be a silicone-based liquid fatty phase.
• silicone-based liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase comprising one or more silicone-based liquid organic compound(s) or silicone oil(s) such as those described previously, the said silicone compounds being predominantly present in the liquid fatty phase, i.e. to at least 50% by weight, especially from 50% to 100% by weight, preferably from 60% to 100% by weight (for example from 60% to 99% by weight), or even from 65% to 100% by weight (for example from 65% to 95% by weight), relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
• the silicone-based liquid organic compounds may especially be selected from:
• liquid organic compounds which are especially non-silicone-based or silicone-based, with a total solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 18 (MPa) 1/2 .
• the said silicone-based liquid fatty phase may thus optionally comprise non-silicone-based liquid organic compounds or oils, as described previously, which may be present in an amount of less than 50% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, or even ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, or else ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
• the silicone-based liquid fatty phase contains no non-silicone-based liquid organic compounds.
• the macromonomers present in the grafted polymer are advantageously silicone-based macromonomers as described below.
• the grafted polymer present in the composition is advantageously a silicone-based grafted polymer.
• silicone-based grafted polymer means a grafted polymer predominantly containing a silicone-based macromonomer optionally containing up to 7% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, and preferably up to 5% by weight, of carbon-based macromonomer, or even being free of carbon-based macromonomer.
• the choice of monomers constituting the skeleton of the polymer, of macromonomers, the molecular weight of the polymer, and the proportion of the monomers and macromonomers may be made as a function of the liquid organic dispersion medium so as advantageously to obtain a dispersion of particles of grafted polymers, in particular a stable dispersion, this choice possibly being made by a person skilled in the art.
• stable dispersion means a dispersion that is not liable to form a solid deposit or to undergo liquid/solid phase separation, especially after centrifugation, for example, at 4000 rpm for 15 minutes.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer forming the particles in dispersion thus comprises a skeleton that is insoluble in the said dispersion medium and a portion that is soluble in the said dispersion medium.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer may be a random polymer.
• grafted ethylenic polymer means a polymer obtainable by free-radical polymerization:
• a “grafted acrylic polymer” is a polymer obtainable by free-radical polymerization:
• the acrylic monomers represent from 50% to 100% by weight, preferably from 55% to 100% by weight (in particular from 55% to 95% by weight), preferentially from 60% to 100% by weight (in particular from 60% to 90% by weight) of the mixture of acrylic monomers+optional non-acrylic vinyl monomers.
• the acrylic monomers are selected from monomers whose homopolymer is insoluble in the dispersion medium under consideration, i.e. the homopolymer is in solid (or non-dissolved) form at a concentration of greater than or equal to 5% by weight at ambient temperature (20° C.) in the said dispersion medium.
• the expression “macromonomer containing a polymerizable end group” means any polymer comprising on only one of its ends a polymerizable end group capable of reacting during the polymerization reaction with acrylic monomers and optionally the additional non-acrylic vinyl monomers constituting the skeleton.
• the macromonomer makes it possible to form the side chains of the grafted acrylic polymer.
• the polymerizable group of the macromonomer may advantageously be an ethylenically unsaturated group capable of free-radical polymerization with the monomers constituting the skeleton.
• carbon-based macromonomer means a non-silicone-based macromonomer and especially an oligomeric macromonomer obtained by polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated non-silicone-based monomer(s), and mainly by polymerization of acrylic and/or non-acrylic vinyl monomers.
• silicon-based macromonomer means an organopolysiloxane macromonomer and in particular a polydimethylsiloxane macromonomer.
• the macromonomer is selected from macromonomers whose homopolymer is soluble in the dispersion medium under consideration, i.e. fully dissolved at a concentration of greater than or equal to 5% by weight and at ambient temperature in the said dispersion medium.
• the grafted acrylic polymer comprises a skeleton (or main chain) consisting of a sequence of acrylic units resulting from the polymerization especially of one or more acrylic monomers and of side chains (or grafts) derived from the reaction of the macromonomers, the said side chains being covalently bonded to the said main chain.
• the skeleton (or main chain) is insoluble in the dispersion medium under consideration, whereas the side chains (or grafts) are soluble in the said dispersion medium.
• acrylic monomers means monomers selected from (meth)acrylic acid, (meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), and (meth)acrylic acid amides (also known as (meth)acrylamides).
• acrylic monomers that may be used to form the insoluble skeleton of the polymer, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following monomers, and also the salts thereof:
• R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• R 2 represents a group selected from:
• R 2 examples include the methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, methoxypolyoxyethylene (350 EO), trifluoroethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, dimethylaminoethyl, diethylaminoethyl or dimethylaminopropyl group;
• R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may comprise one or more substituents selected from —OH, halogen atoms (F, Cl, Br or I) and —NR′R′′ with R′ and R′′, which may be identical or different, selected from linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyls; or
• R 4 represents a hydrogen atom and R 5 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group.
• alkyl groups that can constitute R 4 and R 5 , mention may be made of n-butyl, t-butyl, n-propyl, dimethylaminoethyl, diethylaminoethyl and dimethylaminopropyl.
• (iii) (meth)acrylic monomers comprising at least one carboxylic, phosphoric or sulfonic acid function, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid.
• acrylic monomers those that may be mentioned most particularly are methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and isobutyl (meth)acrylates; methoxyethyl or ethoxyethyl (meth)acrylates; trifluoroethyl methacrylate; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate; dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide; (meth)acrylic acid; and the salts thereof; and mixtures thereof.
• the acrylic monomers are selected from methyl acrylate, methoxyethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, (meth)acrylic acid and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
• non-acrylic vinyl monomers that may be mentioned are:
• R 6 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a cyclic alkyl group containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and/or an aromatic group, for example of benzene, anthracene or naphthalene type;
• non-acrylic vinyl monomers comprising at least one carboxylic, phosphoric or sulfonic acid function, such as crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, and salts thereof;
• non-acrylic vinyl monomers comprising at least one tertiary amine function, such as 2-vinylpyridine or 4-vinylpyridine;
• the grafted polymer comprises (meth)acrylic acid.
• the acrylic monomers present in the grafted polymer comprise at least (meth)acrylic acid, and in particular at least (meth)acrylic acid and at least one monomer selected from the (meth)acrylates and the (meth)acrylamides described above in sections (i) and (ii).
• the acrylic monomers comprise at least (meth)acrylic acid and at least one monomer selected from C 1 -C 3 alkyl (meth)acrylates.
• (Meth)acrylic acid may be present in an amount of at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer (in particular ranging from 5% to 80% by weight), preferably of at least 10% by weight (in particular ranging from 10% by weight to 70% by weight), preferentially of at least 15% by weight (in particular ranging from 15% to 60% by weight).
• salts those that may be mentioned are those obtained by neutralization of acidic moieties with inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases such as alkanolamines, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol.
• inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide
• organic bases such as alkanolamines, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol.
• mineral acids that may be mentioned are sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
• organic acids that may be mentioned are acids comprising one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Acetic acid or propionic acid, terephthalic acid, and citric acid and tartaric acid may especially be mentioned.
• the grafted acrylic polymer contains no additional non-acrylic vinyl monomers as described above.
• the insoluble skeleton of the grafted ethylenic polymer is formed solely from acrylic monomers as described previously.
• non-polymerized acrylic monomers may be soluble in the dispersion medium under consideration, but the polymer formed with these monomers is insoluble in the dispersion medium.
• the grafted ethylenic polymer is obtainable by free-radical polymerization in an organic polymerization medium:
• methyl acrylate methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl acrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
• the additional acrylic monomers may be selected from:
• R′ 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• R′ 2 represents
• R 12 Possible examples include the group methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl, trifluoroethyl; 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, dimethylaminoethyl, diethylaminoethyl, dimethylaminopropyl.
• (meth)acrylic acid methoxyethyl or ethoxyethyl (meth)acrylates; trifluoroethyl methacrylate; dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
• the macromonomers comprise at one of the ends of the chain a polymerizable end group capable of reacting during the polymerization with the acrylic monomers and optionally the additional vinyl monomers, to form the side chains of the grafted ethylenic polymer.
• the said polymerizable end group may in particular be a vinyl or (meth)acrylate (or (meth)acryloyl) group, and preferably a (meth)acrylate group.
• the macromonomers are preferably selected from macromonomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of less than or equal to 25° C., especially ranging from ⁇ 100° C. to 25° C. and preferably ranging from ⁇ 80° C. to 0° C.
• Tg glass transition temperature
• the macromonomers have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 200, preferably greater than or equal to 300, preferentially greater than or equal to 500 and more preferentially greater than 600.
• the macromonomers have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 to 100 000, preferably ranging from 500 to 50 000, preferentially ranging from 800 to 20 000, more preferentially ranging from 800 to 10 000 and even more preferentially ranging from 800 to 6000.
• Mw weight-average molecular mass
• the weight-average (Mw) and number-average (Mn) molar masses are determined by liquid gel permeation chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).
• Carbon-based macromonomers that may in particular be mentioned include:
• polyolefins containing an ethylenically unsaturated end group, in particular containing a (meth)acrylate end group examples include the following macromonomers, it being understood that they have a (meth)acrylate end group: polyethylene macromonomers, polypropylene macromonomers, macromonomers of polyethylene/polypropylene copolymer, macromonomers of polyethylene/polybutylene copolymer, polyisobutylene macromonomers; polybutadiene macromonomers; polyisoprene macromonomers; polybutadiene macromonomers; poly(ethylene/butylene)polyisoprene macromonomers.
• Silicone-based macromonomers that may be mentioned in particular include polydimethylsiloxanes with a mono(meth)acrylate end group, and especially those of formula (II) below: in which R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R 9 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and optionally contains one or two ether bonds —O—; R 10 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 300, preferably ranging from 3 to 200 and preferentially ranging from 5 to 100.
• R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• R 9 denotes a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and optionally contains one or two ether bonds —O—
• R 10 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and especially from 2
• Silicone-based macromonomers that may be used include monomethacryloxypropyl polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the name PS560-K6 by the company United Chemical Technologies Inc. (UCT) or under the name MCR-M17 by the company Gelest Inc.
• the polymerized macromonomer (constituting the side chains of the grafted polymer) represents from 0.1% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight.
• grafted ethylenic polymer dispersed in a non-silicone-based liquid fatty phase it is possible to use those obtained by polymerization:
• methoxyethyl acrylate and of a polyethylene/polybutylene macromonomer with a methacrylate end group especially Kraton L-1253, in particular in isododecane;
• grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in a silicone-based liquid fatty phase it is possible to use those obtained by polymerization:
• methyl acrylate, acrylic acid and the monomethacryloyloxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane macromonomer with a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 800 to 6000, in particular in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or phenyltrimethicone.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the grafted polymer is preferably between 10 000 and 300 000, especially between 20 000 and 200 000 and better still between 25 000 and 150 000.
• the polymers have the capacity of folding over on themselves, thus forming particles of substantially spherical shape, the periphery of these particles having the deployed side chains, which ensure the stability of these particles.
• Such particles resulting from the characteristics of the grafted polymer have the particular feature of not agglomerating in the said medium and thus of being self-stabilized and of forming a particularly stable polymer particle dispersion.
• the grafted ethylenic polymers of the dispersion are capable of forming nanometre-sized particles, with a mean size ranging from 10 to 400 nm and preferably from 20 to 200 nm.
• the grafted polymer particles in dispersion are particularly stable and therefore have little susceptibility to form agglomerates.
• the dispersion of grafted polymer may thus be a dispersion that is stable and does not form sediments when it is placed at ambient temperature (25° C.) for an extended period (for example 24 hours).
• the dispersion of grafted polymer particles has a solids content (or dry extract) of polymer of from 40% to 70% by weight of solids and especially from 45% to 65% by weight.
• the dispersion of grafted polymer particles may be prepared by a process comprising a free-radical copolymerization step, in an organic polymerization medium, of one or more acrylic monomers as defined above with one or more macromonomers as defined above.
• liquid organic dispersion medium may be identical to or different from the polymerization medium.
• the copolymerization may be performed conventionally in the presence of a polymerization initiator.
• the polymerization initiators may be free-radical initiators.
• such a polymerization initiator may be selected from organic peroxide compounds such as dilauroyl peroxide, dibenzoyl peroxide or tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate; diazo compounds such as azobisisobutyronitrile or azobisdimethylvaleronitrile.
• the reaction may also be initiated using photoinitiators or with radiation such as UV or neutrons, or with plasma.
• the organic polymerization medium at least a portion of the organic polymerization medium, a portion of the additional acrylic and/or vinyl monomers, which will constitute the insoluble skeleton after polymerization, all of the macromonomer (which will constitute the side chains of the polymer) and a portion of the polymerization initiator are introduced into a reactor whose size is suitable for the amount of polymer to be prepared.
• the reaction medium forms a relatively homogeneous medium.
• the reaction medium is then stirred and heated up to a temperature to obtain polymerization of the monomers and macromonomers. After a certain time, the initially homogeneous and clear medium leads to a dispersion of milky appearance. A mixture consisting of the remaining portion of monomers and of polymerization initiator is then added. After an adequate time during which the mixture is heated with stirring, the medium stabilizes in the form of a milky dispersion, the dispersion comprising polymer particles stabilized in the medium in which they have been created, the said stabilization being due to the presence, in the polymer, of side chains that are soluble in the said dispersion medium.
• the grafted polymer described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and preferentially ranging from 2% to 25% by weight.
• the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more colorants selected from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent colorants such as pigments, nacres and flakes, which are well known to the person skilled in the art.
• the colorants may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
• pigments are meant white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any form which are insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended for colouring the composition.
• Nacres are irridescent particles of any form, produced in particular by certain molluscs within their shell, or else synthesized.
• the pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic.
• mineral pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder.
• organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium.
• effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or mineral, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, the said substrate being bare or covered with metallic substances such as aluminium, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or with metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and mixtures thereof.
• the nacreous pigments may be selected from white nacreous pigments such as titanium-coated mica, or bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• Use may also be made of interference pigments, especially liquid-crystal pigments or multilayer pigments.
• the grafted polymer present in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a good, homogeneous dispersion of the pulverulent colorants such as the pigments or the nacres.
• the invention accordingly further provides a foundation composition
• a foundation composition comprising a dispersion of particles of grafted ethylenic polymer in a liquid fatty phase, as described above, and at least one colorant, especially pigments and nacres, or any other filler having an optical effect.
• the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
• composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more fillers, in particular in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
• fillers are meant particles of any shape, colourless or white, mineral or synthetic, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.
• the fillers may be mineral or organic fillers of any form, platelet-like, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example, leaflet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industries), and of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium
• composition according to the invention may further comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetology, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, free-radical scavengers, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequesterants, perfumes, alkalifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, gums, waxes, propellants, or mixtures thereof.
• ingredients commonly used in cosmetology such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, free-radical scavengers, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequesterants, perfumes, alkalifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, gums, waxes, propellants, or mixtures thereof.
• the composition according to the invention may be present in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, solution, gel, emulsion, particularly an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or multiple (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O) emulsion, in the form of a cream, paste or mousse, a dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, a two-phase or multiphase lotion, or a spray, powder or paste.
• the composition may be anhydrous: for example, it may comprise a stick or an anhydrous paste.
• the composition may be a composition which is used without rinsing.
• a person skilled in the art may select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method of preparing it, on the basis of his or her general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the vehicle, and secondly the intended application of the composition.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
• the container may be in any appropriate form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet or a carton.
• the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cap, a tear-off strip or a capsule, especially of the type comprising a body attached to the container and a cover cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, especially a pump, a valve or a flap valve.
• the container may be combined with an applicator, especially in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer, a felt or a spatula.
• the applicator may be free (tuft or sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,426.
• the applicator may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.
• the product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
• the product may be arranged on an impregnated support, especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet.
• an impregnated support especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet.
• Such a support incorporating the product is described, for example, in patent application WO 01/03538.
• the closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
• the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, gripping, welding, adhesive bonding or by magnetic attraction.
• the term “snap-fastening” in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of the said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.
• the container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.
• thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene.
• the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).
• the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in the form of a tube or a tubular bottle.
• the container may comprise means for distributing or facilitating the distribution of the composition.
• the container may have deformable walls so as to allow the composition to exit in response to a positive pressure inside the container, this positive pressure being caused by elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
• the product may be driven out by a piston mechanism.
• the container may comprise a mechanism, especially a rack mechanism, a threaded-rod mechanism or a helical groove mechanism, and may be capable of moving a stick in the direction of the said aperture.
• a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566.
• Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.
• the container may consist of a carton with a base delimiting at least one housing containing the composition, and a lid, especially articulated on the base, and capable of at least partially covering the said base.
• a carton is described, for example, in patent application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
• the container may be equipped with a drainer arranged in the region of the aperture of the container.
• a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securely fastened.
• Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
• the composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at room temperature) or pressurized, especially by means of a propellent gas (aerosol).
• a propellent gas especially by means of a propellent gas (aerosol).
• the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).
• the present examples illustrate the preparation of polymers in accordance with the invention that are suitable for forming a dispersion of particles in an organic medium under consideration.
• the weight-average (Mw) and number-average (Mn) molar masses of the polymer, the glass transition temperature of the polymer, the solids content (or dry extract) of the dispersion and the size of the polymer particles are determined.
• the weight-average (Mw) and number-average (Mn) molar masses are determined by liquid gel-permeation chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).
• the measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) is performed according to standard ASTM D3418-97, by differential thermal analysis (DSC “Differential Scanning Calorimetry”) on a calorimeter, over a temperature range between ⁇ 100° C. and +150° C., at a heating rate of 10° C./minute in 150 ⁇ l aluminium crucibles.
• DSC differential thermal analysis
• the crucibles are prepared in the following manner: 100 ⁇ l of the dispersion obtained are introduced into a 150 ⁇ l aluminium crucible and the solvent is allowed to evaporate over 24 hours at 2.0 ambient temperature and at 50% relative humidity. The operation is repeated and the crucible is then introduced into a Mettler DSC30 calorimeter.
• the solids content i.e. the amount of non-volatile matter
• the solids content may be measured in various ways: mention may be made, for example, of the methods by oven-drying or the methods by drying by exposure to infrared radiation.
• the solids content is preferably measured by heating the sample with infrared rays with a wavelength of from 2 ⁇ m to 3.5 ⁇ m.
• the substances contained in the composition that have a high vapour pressure evaporate under the effect of this radiation. Measuring the weight loss of the sample makes it possible to determine the dry extract of the composition.
• the measuring protocol is as follows: about 1 g of the composition is spread onto a metal cup. After introducing this cup into the desiccator, it is subjected to a nominal temperature of 120° C. for an hour. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to the initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to the mass after exposure to the radiation, are measured using a precision balance.
• the particle sizes may be measured by various techniques: mention may be made in particular of light-scattering techniques (dynamic and static), Coulter counter methods, sedimentation rate measurements (related to the size via Stokes' law) and microscopy. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and, for some of them, a particle size distribution.
• the sizes and size distributions of the particles in the compositions according to the invention are preferably measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern.
• the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
• This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described especially in the work by Van de Hulst, H. C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
• the measurements are performed at 25° C. on a dilute particle dispersion, obtained from the composition in the following manner: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with water, 2) homogenization of the solution, 3) standing of the solution for 18 hours, 4) recovery of the whitish uniform supernatant.
• the “effective” diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and a mean refractive index of 1.42 for the particles.
• This example illustrates the preparation of a polymer forming a dispersion of particles in a carbon-based solvent, the said polymer being obtained by polymerization of methyl acrylate, acrylic acid and the macromonomer corresponding to a polyethylene/polybutylene copolymer (Kraton L-1253).
• the reaction mixture is stirred and heated at ambient temperature to 90° C. over 1 hour. After 15 minutes at 90° C., a change is observed in the appearance of the reaction medium, which passes from a transparent appearance to a milky appearance. Heating with stirring is continued for a further 15 minutes, and a mixture consisting of 130 g of methyl acrylate, 30 g of acrylic acid and 2 g of Trigonox 21S is then added dropwise over 1 hour.
• particle size 85 nm with polydispersity of 0.04, performed on a Malvern Autosizer Lo-C at 25° C.
• the grafted polymer comprises 8% by weight of macromonomer relative to the weight of the polymer.
• the stability of the dispersion obtained is demonstrated by implementing the following stability protocol: 8 ml of dispersion produced are placed in a haemolysis tube and centrifuged at 4000 rpm for 15 minutes using a Jouan C100-S5 centrifuge. After 15 minutes, it is found that there is no phase separation, thereby demonstrating the dispersion is stable.
• This example illustrates the preparation of a polymer forming a dispersion of particles in a silicone-based solvent, the said polymer being obtained by polymerization of methyl acrylate, acrylic acid and a monomethacryloyloxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane macromonomer having a weight-average molecular weight of 5000, sold under the name MCR-M17 by Gelest Inc.
• the reaction mixture is stirred and heated to 90° C. over 1 hour. After 15 minutes at 90° C., a change is observed in the appearance of the reaction medium, which passes from a transparent appearance to a milky appearance. Heating with stirring is continued for a further 15 minutes, and a mixture consisting of 120 g of methyl acrylate, 40 g of acrylic acid and 2 g of Trigonox 21S is then added dropwise over 1 hour. Next, the mixture is heated for 4 hours at 90° C. and the heptane is then distilled from the reaction medium.
• the grafted polymer comprises 7% by weight of macromonomer (and hence of side chains soluble in D5) relative to the weight of the polymer.
• dry extract 50% in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, performed by thermal balance
• particle size 170 nm with polydispersity of 0.04, performed on a Malvern Autosizer Lo-C at 25° C.
• This example illustrates the preparation of a polymer forming a dispersion of particles in a carbon-based solvent, the said polymer being obtained by polymerization of methyl acrylate, acrylic acid and the macromonomer corresponding to a polyethylene/polybutylene copolymer (Kraton L-1253).
• the reaction mixture is stirred and heated at ambient temperature to 90° C. over 1 hour. After 15 minutes at 90° C., a change is observed in the appearance of the reaction medium, which passes from a transparent appearance to a milky appearance. Heating with stirring is continued for a further 15 minutes, and a mixture consisting of 70 g of methyl acrylate, 90 g of acrylic acid and 2 g of Trigonox 21S is then added dropwise over 1 hour.
• the grafted polymer comprises 8% by weight of macromonomer relative to the weight of the polymer.
• This example illustrates the preparation of a polymer forming a dispersion of particles in a carbon-based solvent, the said polymer being obtained by polymerization of methyl acrylate, acrylic acid and the macromonomer corresponding to a polyethylene/polybutylene copolymer with methacrylate end groups (Kraton L-1253).
• the reaction mixture is stirred and heated at ambient temperature to 90° C. over 1 hour. After 15 minutes at 90° C., a change is observed in the appearance of the reaction medium, which passes from a transparent appearance to a milky appearance. Heating with stirring is continued for a further 15 minutes, and a mixture consisting of 150 g of methyl acrylate, 10 g of acrylic acid and 2 g of Trigonox 21S is then added dropwise over 1 hour.
• the grafted polymer comprises 6% by weight of macromonomer relative to the weight of the polymer.
• particle size 48 nm with polydispersity of 0.04, performed on a Malvern Autosizer Lo-C at 25° C.
• This example illustrates the preparation of a polymer forming a dispersion of particles in a silicone oil, the said polymer being obtained by polymerization of methyl acrylate and a monomethacryloyloxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane macromonomer having a weight-average molecular weight of 5000, sold under the name MCR-M17 by Gelest Inc.
• the reaction mixture is stirred and heated to 90° C. over 1 hour. After 15 minutes at 90° C., a change is observed in the appearance of the reaction medium, which passes from a transparent appearance to a milky appearance. Heating with stirring is continued for a further 15 minutes, and a mixture consisting of 160 g of methyl acrylate and 2 g of Trigonox 21S is then added dropwise over 1 hour. Next, the mixture is heated for 4 hours at 90° C. and the heptane is then distilled from the reaction medium.
• the grafted polymer comprises 5% by weight of macromonomer (and hence of side chains soluble in D5) relative to the weight of the polymer.
• particle size 160 nm with polydispersity of 0.04, performed on a Malvern Autosizer Lo-C at 25° C.
• the polymers of Examples 1 to 5 comprise the following monomers, their amounts being indicated as a percentage by weight of the polymer: Polymer Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Methyl acrylate 72 73 42 89 95 Acrylic acid 20 20 50 5 0 Carbon-based 8 — 8 6 — macromonomer Silicone-based — 7 — — 5 macromonomer
• ABIL EM 97 ⁇ , ⁇ -substituted, ethoxylated propoxylated silicone/cyclomethicone (85/15) blend, sold by the Goldschmidt Company Inwitor 780 K: mono- and diglycerides of isostearic acid esterified with succinic acid sold by the Sasol Company D5: cyclopentasiloxane Silicone gum: blend of polydiphenyl dimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane (15/85) sold under the name Mirasil C (DPDM by Rhodia) Nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 extra D NAT COS by Atofina the 10% of pigments comprise: 1.43% of yellow iron oxides coated with triisopropyl isostearoyl titanate (BYO-I 2 from Kobo) 0.46% of brown iron oxides coated with triisopropyl isostearoyl titanate (BRO-I 2 from Kobo) 0.22%
• compositions have a transfer index in the presence of sebum of less than 4.
• compositions of Examples 6 to 8 have a better transfer resistance in the presence of sebum than the compositions of Examples 9 and 10. It is therefore observed that the presence of acrylic acid in the grafted polymer promotes the non-transfer property of the deposit obtained with the composition.

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