TW201416506A - Fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Abstract

This invention is a fabric manufacturing method, and more particularly to a fabric process technology capable of benefiting the environmental protection and reducing ecological damage. The innovative manufacturing method for the fabric enhances twist through a thinner yarn threads. The fabric performed with sizing process, weaving, grey cloth, desizing, refining and baking adapts vegetable dyes to allow the fabric to carry out manual coloration, capable of retaining the activity of the fabric and drape appearance, showing the style of natural color, clearly presenting the texture of natural shirring of the fabric and having pretty and soft feels, thereby increasing practical values of products.

Description

布料製造方法 Fabric manufacturing method

本發明係一種布料製造方法，特別是指一種對環境保護有益，減少破壞生態的布料加工技術，以細支紗線加強撚度，再經由漿紗、織布、肧布、退漿、精練、烘乾後之布料，採用植物染料，使布料進行手工染色，即能製造出維持布料活性及垂墜感，呈現色彩天然之風格，更凸顯布料自然收皺的紋理，具有挺而柔感覺布料之創新製造方法，增加產品實用價值者。 The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a cloth, in particular to a cloth processing technology which is beneficial to the environment and reduces the damage to the ecology, and the twisted yarn is strengthened by the fine yarn, and then the sizing, the weaving, the weaving, the desizing, the scouring and the drying are carried out. After drying, the fabric is dyed by hand, so that the fabric can be dyed by hand, which can maintain the fabric's activity and drape, present the natural color of the fabric, and highlight the texture of the fabric's natural wrinkles. Manufacturing methods to increase the practical value of the product.

按，目前紡織技術對布料之製造方法，請參閱第一圖所示，一般具有幾個主要步驟：整經(11)：是將紗線，平行且均勻捲繞在經軸上，而捲繞在經軸上的紗線張力須保持一致，使紗線捲繞成正確的圓柱形，在整經過程中，不僅使紗線減少受到磨損，同時保持紗線的物理機械性能。 According to the current method of manufacturing textile fabrics, please refer to the first figure. There are generally several main steps: warping (11): the yarn is wound in parallel and evenly on the warp beam, and wound. The yarn tension on the warp beam must be kept consistent so that the yarn is wound into the correct cylindrical shape, which not only reduces the yarn wear but also maintains the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn during warping.

漿紗(12)：在紗線上施加漿料，以提高紗線在織布機上，能承受反覆摩擦、拉伸、彎曲等作用，而不致大量起毛甚至斷裂的性能；未上漿的單紗纖維互相抱合不牢，表面毛羽較多，難以織制，上漿後一部分漿液滲透入纖維之間，另一部分粘附在紗線表面。 Sizing (12): Applying a slurry on the yarn to improve the yarn on the loom, and can withstand the effects of repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc. without causing a lot of fluffing or even breaking; unspun single yarn The fibers do not hold each other tightly, and the surface has many hairiness and is difficult to weave. After the sizing, a part of the slurry penetrates into the fibers and the other part adheres to the surface of the yarn.

織布(13)：利用梭子牽引緯紗，橫向往復快速地進行織布。 Weaving (13): The weft yarn is pulled by a shuttle, and the weaving is performed in a lateral reciprocating manner.

肧布(14)：形成剛織好但未作任何加工前的布。 Crepe (14): Forms a cloth that has just been woven but has not been subjected to any processing.

退漿(15)：去除織物上漿料的過程。織物的紗線，在織造前大都先經過漿紗，而漿料在染整過程中會影響織物的潤濕性，且織物退漿兼具有去除織維中部分雜質的作用。 Desizing (15): The process of removing the slurry from the fabric. The yarn of the fabric is mostly sizing before weaving, and the slurry will affect the wettability of the fabric during the dyeing and finishing process, and the fabric desizing has the function of removing some impurities in the weaving dimension.

漂白(16)：由於肧布纖維上還有天然色素存在，其外觀不夠潔白，必須進一步去除纖維上的天然色素，賦予織物穩定的白度。 Bleaching (16): Since the natural pigment is present on the crepe fiber, its appearance is not white enough, and the natural pigment on the fiber must be further removed to impart a stable whiteness to the fabric.

染色(17)：藉工業染料與纖維在一定溫度、時間和所需化學染色助劑等條件下進行，使顏料牢固附著於纖維上。 Dyeing (17): The industrial dye and fiber are carried out under conditions of a certain temperature, time and required chemical dyeing assistant to firmly adhere the pigment to the fiber.

水洗(18)：將染色後之織物，以大量清水進行水洗，達到穩定染色效果。 Washing (18): The dyed fabric is washed with a large amount of water to achieve a stable dyeing effect.

加樹脂(19)：於織布上加入樹脂，使之彈性增加，減少生皺現象。 Adding resin (19): Adding a resin to the woven fabric increases the elasticity and reduces wrinkles.

烘乾(20)：使纖維處於一定張力，在受熱的條件下持續一定時間，使布料平整，又稱為熱定型(heat setting)。 Drying (20): The fiber is placed under a certain tension and heated for a certain period of time to make the fabric flat, also known as heat setting.

成品(21)：將完成之織布捲收或折疊包裝。 Finished product (21): The finished woven fabric is rolled up or folded.

由前述習用布料製造方法，其後段之漂白(16)、染色(17)、水洗(18)及加樹脂(19)等加工步驟，係屬織布染整工業；而織布染整工業是需要大量使用水和能源的一項污染工業，而且使用化學染料及各種藥劑，更是製造龐大的廢氣、廢水和廢棄物等，對環境造成嚴重負荷的產業。 According to the conventional fabric manufacturing method, the processing steps of bleaching (16), dyeing (17), washing (18) and adding resin (19) in the latter stage are woven fabric dyeing and finishing industries; A polluting industry that uses a lot of water and energy, and uses chemical dyes and various chemicals to make a huge load on the environment, such as waste gas, waste water and waste.

針對工業染料有關聯的環境問題之應對措施，除了經濟的考量外，更應加入對環境保護有益的方式，在使用既有染料 時，就需要善用不會破壞生態的加工技術，雖然要花費一些成本，但卻是有必要的。 In response to economic considerations, in addition to economic considerations, it is also necessary to add environmentally friendly ways to use existing dyes. At the time, it is necessary to make good use of processing technology that does not destroy the ecology. Although it costs some money, it is necessary.

本發明人遂累積多年專業製造之經驗，針對上述習用製造技術存在之缺憾，積極進行研究、開發，而為使本發明能發揮更佳功效，期間尤歷經多次試驗及改良，終得以完成一種創新之布料製造方法。 The inventor has accumulated many years of experience in professional manufacturing, and actively researched and developed in view of the shortcomings of the above-mentioned conventional manufacturing technology, and in order to make the present invention perform better, during the period of trial and improvement, it was finally completed. Innovative fabric manufacturing methods.

本發明之首要目的，係在提供一種布料之製造方法，特別是指一種對環境保護有益，減少破壞生態的布料加工技術，包括下列步驟：整經：將紗線平行捲繞且均勻地分佈在經軸上，進行紗線加撚，使紗線繞成圓柱形。 The primary object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a fabric, in particular to a fabric processing technique which is beneficial to environmental protection and reduces ecological damage, and includes the following steps: warping: winding the yarn in parallel and evenly distributed On the warp beam, the yarn is twisted to make the yarn into a cylindrical shape.

漿紗：在紗線上施加漿料，以提高紗線在織布機上，能承受反覆摩擦、拉伸、彎曲等作用，而不致大量起毛甚至斷裂的性能。 Sizing: Applying a slurry to the yarn to improve the yarn on the loom, and can withstand the effects of repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc. without causing a lot of fluffing or even breaking.

織布：利用梭子牽引緯紗，橫向往復快速地進行織布。 Weaving: The weft yarn is pulled by a shuttle, and the weaving is performed in a horizontally reciprocating manner.

肧布：形成剛織好但未作任何加工前的布。 Cloth: A cloth that has just been woven but has not been subjected to any processing.

退漿：去除織物上的漿料。 Desizing: Remove the slurry from the fabric.

精練：利用高溫條件下加入精練助劑，將殘留雜質被降解、乳化，再以水洗去除雜質。 Refining: Adding scouring aids under high temperature conditions, the residual impurities are degraded, emulsified, and then washed with water to remove impurities.

烘乾：使織布處於一定張力，在受熱的條件下持續一定時間，使布料平整；或使織布不受拉力、張力，在受熱風持續一 定時間，自然烘乾。 Drying: the woven fabric is under a certain tension, and it is kept in a heated condition for a certain period of time to make the fabric flat; or the woven fabric is free from tension and tension, and the hot air continues for one time. Set the time and dry naturally.

手工染色：係採用植物染料，將織布置入進行染色，經過至少20回以上的反覆浸染、提盪、水洗、晾曬，持續染色以達所需顏色之深度。 Hand-dyeing: using plant dyes, arranging the woven fabrics for dyeing, after at least 20 times of repeated dipping, tumbling, washing, drying, and continuous dyeing to achieve the desired color depth.

成品：將完成之織布捲收或折疊包裝。 Finished product: The finished woven fabric is rolled up or folded.

藉由上述製造方法，即能製造出維持布料活性及垂墜感，呈現色彩天然之風格，更凸顯布料自然收皺的紋理，具有挺而柔感覺布料。 By the above-mentioned manufacturing method, it is possible to produce a fabric that maintains the activity of the cloth and the drape, and presents a natural color style, which further highlights the texture of the natural wrinkle of the fabric, and has a soft and soft feeling fabric.

為使 貴審查官得以具體瞭解本發明之製造方法特徵及發明內涵，茲舉出本發明之較佳實施例，並佐以製造流程圖詳細說明之，更可明白本發明之優點。 The advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention.

首先，請參閱第二圖所示，本發明布料製造方法，包括下列步驟：整經(31)：將30支~120支的紗線，平行捲繞且均勻地分佈在經軸上，以大於一般標準撚度20%以上進行紗線加撚，使紗線繞成圓柱形。 First, referring to the second figure, the fabric manufacturing method of the present invention comprises the following steps: warping (31): 30 to 120 yarns are wound in parallel and evenly distributed on the warp beam to be larger than Generally, the standard twist is 20% or more, and the yarn is twisted to make the yarn into a cylindrical shape.

所謂「1支」，係指每一磅的紗線，可以紡製到840碼(約略768公尺)的長度，所以30支紗線，就是它可以抽拉到840碼的30倍長度，支數愈多，紗線愈細，接觸到皮膚時就愈柔軟舒適。 The so-called "1" means that each pound of yarn can be spun to a length of 840 yards (about 768 meters), so 30 yarns can be pulled to 30 times the length of 840 yards. The more the number, the finer the yarn and the softer and more comfortable it will be when it comes into contact with the skin.

所謂「撚度」，係指紗線單位長度上的撚回數(即螺旋圈數)， 常用一般紗線撚度約為20~40撚/10cm；撚度影響紗線的強力、剛柔性、彈性、縮率等指標。 The term "twist" refers to the number of twists per unit length of the yarn (ie, the number of turns). Commonly used yarns have a twist of about 20~40捻/10cm; the twist affects the strength, rigidity, elasticity and shrinkage of the yarn.

漿紗(32)：在紗線上施加漿料，以提高紗線在織布機上，能承受反覆摩擦、拉伸、彎曲等作用，而不致大量起毛甚至斷裂的性能。 Sizing (32): Applying a slurry on the yarn to improve the yarn's ability to withstand repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc. without causing excessive fluffing or even breaking.

織布(33)：將30支~120支的橫向緯紗，以大於一般標準撚度20%以上進行紗線加撚，使紗線繞成圓柱形。利用梭子牽引緯紗，橫向往復快速地進行織布。 Weaving (33): 30 to 120 transverse weft yarns are twisted with yarns greater than 20% of the normal standard twist to make the yarns into a cylindrical shape. The weft is pulled by the shuttle, and the weaving is performed in a laterally reciprocating manner.

肧布(34)：形成剛織好但未作任何加工前的布。 Crepe (34): Forms a cloth that has just been woven but has not been subjected to any processing.

退漿(35)：去除織物上漿料的過程。織物的紗線，在織造前大都先經過漿紗，而漿料在染整過程中會影響織物的潤濕性，且織物退漿兼具有去除織維中部分雜質的作用。 Desizing (35): The process of removing the slurry from the fabric. The yarn of the fabric is mostly sizing before weaving, and the slurry will affect the wettability of the fabric during the dyeing and finishing process, and the fabric desizing has the function of removing some impurities in the weaving dimension.

精練(36)：退漿後之布面雜質大部分已被去除，但仍有部分雜質殘留，利用高溫條件下加入精練助劑，將殘留雜質被降解、乳化，再以水洗去除雜質。 Refining (36): Most of the impurities on the fabric after desizing have been removed, but some impurities remain. The scouring aid is added under high temperature conditions to decompose and emulsify the residual impurities, and then remove the impurities by washing with water.

烘乾(37)：使織布處於一定張力，在受熱的條件下持續一定時間，使布料平整；或使織布不受拉力、張力，在受熱風持續一定時間，自然烘乾。 Drying (37): The woven fabric is placed under a certain tension, and the fabric is allowed to be flat under a heated condition for a certain period of time; or the woven fabric is not subjected to tension and tension, and is naturally dried in a heated wind for a certain period of time.

手工染色(38)：係採用植物發酵水解法(沉澱法)，將植物莖葉，放置於桶中，以水浸泡約二至四天，讓水和植物體中的微生物，在適宜的溫度、PH值等條件下迅速繁殖，充分發酵水解後，將植物撈出，放入石灰攪拌反應完成後，靜置沉澱； 再將沉澱之染泥溶解，加入營養劑及熱水，利用原本存在於植物染料中的細菌緩緩發酵還原，將織布置入進行染色，經過至少20回以上的反覆浸染、提盪、水洗、晾曬，持續染色以達所需之顏色深度。 Manual dyeing (38): using plant fermentation hydrolysis method (precipitation method), placing the plant stems and leaves in a bucket, soaking in water for about two to four days, allowing water and microorganisms in the plant to be at a suitable temperature, Rapidly multiply under the conditions of PH value, etc., after fully fermenting and hydrolyzing, the plant is removed, and the lime is stirred and the reaction is completed, and the precipitate is allowed to stand; The precipitated dyed mud is dissolved, nutrient and hot water are added, and the bacteria originally present in the vegetable dye are slowly fermented and reduced, and the woven fabric is arranged for dyeing, and after at least 20 times of repeated dipping, lifting, washing Dry, continue to dye to achieve the desired color depth.

前述手工染色(38)係採用植物染料進行染色，本發明亦能由大自然中取得五顏六色的礦石，常用的礦石染材有硃砂、赭石、黃土、黑煙、烏泥、石綠、鉛白等，其主要染色方法為塗染。 The aforementioned manual dyeing (38) is dyed with a vegetable dye, and the present invention can also obtain colorful ore from nature. The commonly used ore dyeing materials include cinnabar, vermiculite, loess, black smoke, black mud, stone green, lead white, etc. The main dyeing method is dyeing.

成品(39)：將完成之織布捲收或折疊包裝。 Finished product (39): The finished woven fabric is rolled up or folded.

本發明由前述之製造方法，即能製造出維持布料活性及垂墜感，呈現色彩天然之風格；更能凸顯布料自然收皺的紋理，具有挺而柔之感覺。 According to the manufacturing method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a fabric that maintains the activity and drape of the fabric, and presents a natural color style; the texture of the fabric is naturally wrinkled, and has a feeling of being quite soft.

本發明另一實施例，請參閱第三圖所示，係由整經(31)、漿紗(32)、織布(33)、肧布(34)、退漿(35)、精練(36)、烘乾(37)工序後，所形成之布料，先進行縫製衣服(40)，再將縫製後之衣服進行手工染色(38)，即能製造出維持布料活性及垂墜感，呈現色彩天然之風格，且凸顯布料自然收皺的紋理，具有挺而柔感覺之衣服成品(41)。 Another embodiment of the present invention, as shown in the third figure, is warping (31), sizing (32), woven fabric (33), crepe (34), desizing (35), refining (36). After the drying (37) process, the formed fabric is first sewn into the garment (40), and then the sewn garment is hand-dyed (38) to maintain the fabric activity and drape, and to present the color. Natural style, and highlights the natural wrinkle texture of the fabric, with a very soft and sensuous finished garment (41).

本發明之主要優點，係針對一般習用布料製造方法，其後段之漂白、染色、水洗及加樹脂等加工步驟，大量使用水和能源的一項污染工業，對生態環境造成嚴重負荷的缺失，加以改善，本發明之布料係以天然的植物或礦物染料進行手工染色， 不會破壞生態，對環保有益的加工技術。 The main advantage of the present invention is that it is directed to the conventional method of manufacturing cloth, the processing steps of bleaching, dyeing, washing and adding resin in the latter stage, and a pollution industry which uses a large amount of water and energy, and causes a serious load on the ecological environment. Improved, the fabric of the present invention is hand-dyed with natural plant or mineral dyes, It will not destroy the ecological and processing technology that is beneficial to the environment.

本發明另一優點，係以30支~120支的紗線，大於一般撚度20%以上進行紗線加撚，使紗線形成圓柱形，再將織成之布料進行手工植物染色，即能製造出維持布料活性及垂墜感，呈現色彩天然之風格，更凸顯布料自然收皺的紋理，具有挺而柔感覺布料之創新製造方法。 Another advantage of the present invention is that the yarn is twisted from 30 to 120 yarns, more than 20% of the general twist, the yarn is formed into a cylindrical shape, and the woven fabric is hand-plant dyed, which can be manufactured. It maintains the fabric's activity and drape, presents a natural color style, and highlights the natural wrinkle texture of the fabric. It has an innovative manufacturing method for the fabric.

上述詳細說明，係針對本發明之可行實施例之具體說明，惟前述實施例並非用以限制本發明之專利範圍，凡未脫離本發明技藝精神所為之等效實施或變更，均應包含於本發明之專利範圍中。 The detailed description of the present invention is intended to be illustrative of the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. In the scope of the invention patent.

綜上所述，本發明「布料製造方法」確實可達到發明之預期目的及作用，且從未具有雷同或近似之方法揭露於市，實已符合專利要件，懇請 貴審查官惠予審查，並賜准專利，實感德便。 In summary, the "fabric manufacturing method" of the present invention can indeed achieve the intended purpose and effect of the invention, and has never been disclosed in the same way or similarly, and has already met the patent requirements, and is requested to be reviewed by the examiner. Granting a patent, it is really sensible.

(習用技術) (practical technology)

(11)‧‧‧整經 (11) ‧ ‧ ‧ warping

(12)‧‧‧漿紗 (12)‧‧‧Sizing

(13)‧‧‧織布 (13)‧‧‧Weaving

(14)‧‧‧肧布 (14)‧‧‧肧布

(15)‧‧‧退漿 (15)‧‧‧ Desizing

(16)‧‧‧漂白 (16) ‧ ‧ bleaching

(17)‧‧‧染色 (17)‧‧‧Staining

(18)‧‧‧水洗 (18)‧‧‧Washing

(19)‧‧‧加樹脂 (19)‧‧‧Adding resin

(20)‧‧‧烘乾 (20) ‧ ‧ drying

(21)‧‧‧成品 (21)‧‧‧ finished products

(本發明) (this invention)

(31)‧‧‧整經 (31)‧‧‧

(32)‧‧‧漿紗 (32)‧‧‧Sizing

(33)‧‧‧織布 (33)‧‧‧Weaving

(34)‧‧‧肧布 (34)‧‧‧肧布

(35)‧‧‧退漿 (35)‧‧‧Desizing

(36)‧‧‧精練 (36) ‧‧‧Refining

(37)‧‧‧烘乾 (37) ‧ ‧ drying

(38)‧‧‧手工染色 (38)‧‧‧Manual dyeing

(39)‧‧‧成品 (39)‧‧‧ finished products

(40)‧‧‧縫製衣服 (40) ‧‧‧Sewing clothes

(41)‧‧‧成品 (41)‧‧‧ finished products

第一圖所示係習用布料製造方法流程圖。 The first figure shows a flow chart of the method of manufacturing a conventional fabric.

第二圖所示係本發明布料製造方法流程圖。 The second figure shows a flow chart of the fabric manufacturing method of the present invention.

第三圖所示係本發明另一實施製造方法流程圖。 The third figure shows a flow chart of another embodiment of the manufacturing method of the present invention.

(31)‧‧‧整經 (31)‧‧‧

(32)‧‧‧漿紗 (32)‧‧‧Sizing

(33)‧‧‧織布 (33)‧‧‧Weaving

(34)‧‧‧肧布 (34)‧‧‧肧布

(35)‧‧‧退漿 (35)‧‧‧Desizing

(36)‧‧‧精練 (36) ‧‧‧Refining

(37)‧‧‧烘乾 (37) ‧ ‧ drying

(38)‧‧‧手工染色 (38)‧‧‧Manual dyeing

(39)‧‧‧成品 (39)‧‧‧ finished products

Claims (3)

一種布料製造方法，包括下列步驟：整經：將紗線平行捲繞且均勻地分佈在經軸上，進行紗線加撚，使紗線繞成圓柱形；漿紗：在紗線上施加漿料，以提高紗線在織機上，能承受反覆摩擦、拉伸、彎曲等作用，而不致大量起毛甚至斷裂的性能；織布：利用梭子牽引緯紗，橫向往復快速地進行織布；肧布：形成剛織好但未作任何加工前的布；退漿：去除織物上的漿料；精練：利用高溫條件下加入精練助劑，將殘留雜質被降解、乳化，再以水洗去除雜質；烘乾：使織布受熱風持續一定時間定型；手工染色：係採用植物染料，將織布置入進行染色，經過至少20回以上的反覆浸染、提盪、水洗、晾曬，持續染色以達所需之顏色深度；成品：將完成之織布捲收或折疊包裝。 A fabric manufacturing method comprising the following steps: warping: winding yarns in parallel and evenly distributed on a warp beam, twisting the yarn to make the yarn into a cylindrical shape; sizing: applying a slurry on the yarn In order to improve the yarn on the loom, it can withstand the effects of repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc., without causing a lot of fluffing or even breaking. Weaving: weaving the weft yarn by the shuttle, and smoothly weaving in the lateral reciprocating manner; Just woven but not made any fabric before processing; desizing: remove the slurry on the fabric; scouring: using high temperature conditions to add scouring aids, the residual impurities are degraded, emulsified, and then washed with water to remove impurities; drying: The woven fabric is subjected to hot air for a certain period of time; manual dyeing: using plant dyes, arranging the woven fabrics for dyeing, after at least 20 times of repeated dip dyeing, lifting, washing, drying, continuous dyeing to achieve the desired color Depth; Finished product: The finished woven fabric is rolled up or folded. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之布料製造方法，其中整經，係將30支~120支的縱向經紗，以大於一般標準撚度20%以上進行紗線加撚。 The fabric manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein the warping is performed by twisting 30 to 120 longitudinal warp yarns with a twist of more than 20% of a general standard. 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之布料製造方法，其中織布，係將30支~120支的橫向緯紗，以大於一般標準撚度20%以上進行紗線加撚，利用梭子牽引緯紗，橫向往復快速地進行織布。 The fabric manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is 30 to 120 transverse weft yarns, and the yarn is twisted by more than 20% of the general standard twist, and the weft yarn is pulled by the shuttle, and the yarn is horizontally reciprocated. Weaving quickly.