MXPA02000480A - Cosmetic compositions. - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least 5 %, by weight, of humectant. The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such as good moisturisation, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack. In addition, such compositions are readily degraded once used and are consequently kinder to the environment.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that provide good benefits of wetting, moisturizing, skin feeling, skin smoothness and / or smoothness of the skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and fibrous collagen proteins that form the framework of its structure. The outermost part of these layers is referred to as the s t ra t um corn e um, it is known that it is composed of sets of 25nm proteins surrounded by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents normally penetrate the membrane of the s t ra t um corn e um and, by delipidization (ie elimination of the lipids of s t ra t um corn e um), destroy their integrity. This destruction of the topography of the surface of the skin leads to a rough feeling and eventually allow the surfactant or > . . solvent interact with keratin, creating irritation. Many people expose their skin to this mistreatment every day. In addition, the skin can be damaged by other factors such as, for example, exposure to the sun, exposure to air or cold wind, mechanical abrasion, immersion in water, etc. In this way, there is a need to mitigate or improve this damage. In the past, the compositions had been formulated to help the body to maintain its barrier and water retention function in its optimum performance despite the damaging interactions that the skin can find in washing, working, and recreation. The desirable properties for these compositions are those having good skin feel characteristics, water retention, wetting, absorption, and / or rubbing penetration. The compositions of the prior art have attempted to provide these properties by the use of one or more "skin-friendly agents". For example, one way of providing high moisture to the skin is to incorporate polyhydric alcohol-like humectant materials such as glycerin in the composition. The compositions for the skin with high levels of faith t i ii-? . Wetting and therefore high levels of wetting, however, are often perceived by the consumer as uncomfortable as the compositions may have a slimy feel when applied to the skin. There seems to be a direct relationship between the amount of the agent suitable for the skin and the effectiveness of the composition in providing the benefits for the skin. However, it is also the case that the higher the level of agent suitable for the skin, the greater the risk of the associated negative effects. Therefore, to date, it has been necessary to balance the benefits of compositions comprising high levels of skin-friendly agents against the negative effects associated with these high levels. In this way, there remains a need for compositions containing high levels of skin-friendly agents, and therefore provide high levels of associated benefits such as, for example, skin feeling, skin smoothness and skin smoothness. , although they show low levels of associated negative effects such as, for example, greasy, viscous or sticky character. ít.1, Í- *. < It is also known that quaternary ammonium agents are used in cosmetic compositions. See, for example, WO-A-99/27904, WO-A-96/32089, and EP-A-789, 076. Also, US-A-5, 804, 205 disclosing skin care compositions. which are claimed to provide a high degree of wetting without leaving a "viscous" or "sticky" residue. The compositions contain quaternary ammonium compounds having two alkyl groups of 16 to 22 carbon atoms, moisturizing and non-irritating hydrophobic micro spheres having an average particle size of less than 50 μm. It is claimed that polymer hydrophobic micro spheres significantly reduce the "stickiness" associated with high levels of humectant. However, the quaternary ammonium agents commonly used in the prior art often can not be easily biodegraded and therefore can be harmful to the environment. Unexpectedly it has been found that compositions comprising at least one quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded and at least 5% by weight of a humectant provide high levels of benefits 1 I1J l 'ttfifJ rÜrfir dWtUju ^ || luMaita Í..Z? I * - i associated with skin sensation, softness of the skin and smoothness of the skin, although they show low levels of associated negative effects such as fatty character , viscous or sticky. In addition, these compositions degrade easily once used and therefore do not harm the environment. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents of the present invention can form vesicles of humectants and promote their deposition on the skin. This results in a smooth and even application of the moisturizer to the skin with minimal viscous / sticky / fatty character. Even when the compositions comprise extremely high percentages of humectant, for example 30% by weight, there are only low levels of the usual negative effects. It is also believed that quaternary ammonium agents help reduce the loss of skin moisturizers due to environmental factors such as, for example, water or abrasion. In addition, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium agents themselves provide skin care benefits, such as, for example, good iat ^ fi. ^ J »a a. -H-aMB-MbMÜB moistening, good skin feeling, good skin smoothness.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded; and (b) at least 5% by weight of a humectant; The compositions of the present invention provide good benefits for skin care, such as, for example, good wetting, good hydration, good skin feeling, good skin smoothness and / or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negative effects such as, for example, greasy, sticky or viscous character. In addition, these compositions degrade easily once used and therefore do not harm the environment.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded and a humectant. Í -; ír¿r,, Í? -y-J.T - í i. * L? These elements will be described in more detail later. The compositions herein can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the compositions herein are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprising a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form although the different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials with each other. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise vesicles. Preferably, the vesicles comprise the quaternary ammonium compound together with a humectant. In the sense in which it is used in the present, the term "vesicle" means one or more bilayers arranged in a geometry usually spherical, closed, the bilayer a. ^ comprises a quaternary ammonium agent as will be described below. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant. The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a product viscosity of at least about 1,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range of between about 1,000 and 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably between about 2,500 and 250,000 mPa. . s and especially between about 5,000 and 200,000 mPa.s (26.8 C, pure, Brookfield DV-II + Spindle CP52 / CP41).Quaternary Ammonium Agent The compositions of the present invention should comprise at least one quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded. Any quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded, suitable for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. In the sense in which "& z • ** - & used herein, the term "quaternary ammonium agent" means a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably, two, entities containing six or more carbon atoms. As used herein, the term "readily biodegradable" means that, according to the OECD 301 test, at least 60% of the compounds are mineralized within a period of 28 days. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with two entities wherein each entity comprises ten or more, preferably, 12 or more, carbon atoms. Quite preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those that are capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents, as detected by microscopic analysis (polarized light microscopy at x60 magnification using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope). Preferably, the compositions herein comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably at least 0.1%, even more preferably at least 1%, still more preferably at least 3% by weight of the quaternary ammonium agent. Preferably, the quaternary ammonium agents to be used herein are selected from: (a) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (I) or (II): (-5) 4-n -N + - (CH2) n Q Rβ) m X "O) (R *) 4 m -H- (CH2) p- • CH- -CH, Q- • Re m X " "Re (H) wherein, each R 5 unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkyl, branched or straight C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl; each R6 unit is independently linear or branched Cn-C22 alkyl, linear or branched Cn-C22 alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X "is an anion that is compatible with active ingredients and adjuncts for skin care; m is from 1 to 4, of t * * .. -a í & y-aa a preference, 2; n is from 1 to 4, preferably 2; and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from: OR -or- wherein R7 is hydrogen, C? _C alkyl, C? -C4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof. In the example of the above quaternary ammonium compound, the -QRe unit contains a fatty acyl unit which is normally derived from a triglyceride source. The triglyceride source is preferably derived from tallow, partly tallow .. ^ .1 ii hydrogenated, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and / or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil , corn oil, soybean oil, wood pulp oil, rice bran oil, etc. and mixtures of these oils. The counter-ion, X "in the above compounds, can be any compatible anion, preferably the anion of a strong acid, for example, chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, etiisulfate, sulfate, nitrate and the like, more preferably chloride or metisulfate.The anion can also carry, although less preferred, a double charge in which case X ~ represents half of a group.The preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are the compounds of quaternary ammonium diester and / or diamide (DEQA), the diesters and diamides having the general formula (II), wherein the carbonyl group Q is selected from: -o- Tallow oil, cane oil and palm oil are convenient and inexpensive sources of fatty acyl units which are suitable for use in the present invention as Re units. The counter-ion, X ", may be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter-ion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The scope of this invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion In the sense in which it is used herein, when the diester is specified, it will include the monoester and triester which are normally present as a result of the manufacturing process. (b) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (III) or (IV): (IV) wherein R9 is a hydrocarbon group of C5-C2? acyclic aliphatic and Rio is an alkyl or alkylene group of Ci-Cß- These ammonium compounds, having a pKa value not greater than about 4, are capable of generating a cationic charge insitu when dispersed in an aqueous solution, with the proviso that the pH of the final composition is not greater than about 6. írh? Sá í n (c) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (V) or (VI): wherein Rg and Rio are as previously specified and Rn is selected from C1-C4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups. 10 The counter-ion, X ", may be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter ion of the ammonium compounds quaternary charged positively The scope of this invention is not considered limited to any particular anion. (d) quaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (VII) or (VIII): Or R ?. , 0 n (H2C) - -N- - (CH2) n- -N 'Ro H O (Vil) wherein, n is from 1 to 6, Rg is selected from acyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon groups of C? 5-C2? and R12 is selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups of C? C 4. These ammonium compounds have a pKa value not greater than about 4, are capable of generating a cationic charge in s i t u when dispersed in an aqueous solution, with the proviso that the pH of the final composition is not greater than about 6. The counter ion, X "may be chloride, bromide, methylisulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate, and mixtures thereof In fact, the anion, X, is present simply as a counter-ion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds The scope of this invention is not considered to be limited to any particular anion (e) dicuaternary ammonium compounds according to the general formula (IX) or (X): (IX) (X) wherein R5, R6, Q, n and X "are as defined above in relation to general formula (I) and > »*. JAJ.! -, (II), R 3 is selected from alkylene groups of Ci-Cd, preferably an ethylene group. (f) mixtures of the above quaternary ammonium compounds. Preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use in the present invention are those described in section (b) above. In particular, quaternary ammonium diester and / or diamide compounds (DEQA) are preferred according to general formula (II) above. Preferred diesters for use herein are those according to the general formula (II) wherein R5, R6, and X ~ are as defined above and Q is: O • O- The preferred diamides for use herein are those according to the general formula (II) wherein R5, R6, and X "are as defined above and Q is: Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in . The methods of the present invention are N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethyl-ammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N- methylisulfate. methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, -di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. For use herein, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulfate is particularly preferred. Although quaternary ammonium compounds derived from "canolyl" fatty acyl groups are preferred, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "canolyl" in the above examples is replaced by the terms "seboyl," cocoyl, palmyl, lauryl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl "corresponding to the triglyceride source from which the fatty acyl units are derived. These alternative fatty acyl sources can comprise any completely saturated chains, or preferably at least partially unsaturated. Humectant A second essential element of the compositions of the present invention is that which comprises at least 5% by weight of a humectant. In the sense in which it is used herein, the term "humectant" means a substance that provides the skin with benefits for water retention. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least 7.5%, more preferably at least 10%, still more preferably at least 15%, most preferably at least 30% by weight of the humectant. Any suitable humectant for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. Non-limiting examples of humectants suitable for use in the present invention are described in WO98 / 22085, W098 / 18444 and WO97 / 01326. Preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from the following: amino acids and derivatives thereof such as, for example, proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butyl glycol, propylene glycol and water, and codi extract. um t omen t um, amino acids or collagen peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine salts, glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, glycerin polyethylene glycol et al (eg glycereth 20), glycerin, monopropoxylate or glycerol, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, and extracts or derivatives thereof, hydrolyzed hydrogenated starch, hydrolysed mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG 10, methyl gluceth-10 and -20 (both commercially available from Amerchol located in Edison, NJ), methyl glucose, 3-met il-1,3-butanediol, N-acetyl glucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as, for example, PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythritol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythritol, 1,2 pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5 carboxylic acid and its salts such as, for example, glyceryl pea, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium poly-aspartate, sodium polyglutamate, sorbitan , sorbet 6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof as for example, glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethopropane, salts of tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane, and yeast extract, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from «^ • sw • i. * t -t glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin.

Optional ingredients The compositions herein can 10 contain a variety of optional components suitable to render the methods herein more cosmetic or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional use benefits. These conventional optional ingredients are well 15 known to those skilled in the art. These include any cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as, for example, those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, la. 20th edition, edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are provided below. 25 Emollients A fairly preferred optional ingredient of the compositions of the present invention is an emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and flexibility of the skin, prevent or alleviate the dryness of the skin, and / or protect the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2a. Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of materials suitable for use as emollients. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise more than 1%, more preferably at least 5%, still more preferably at least 10% by weight of the emollient. Preferably, the emollients for use herein are selected from: i) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as, for example, dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and derivatives thereof; same, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons. . & amp; amp; amp; & amp; - i *? ii) Alcohol esters of C? -C30, C? -C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, for example, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate. iii) Mono-, di- and t r i-glycides of C-C3o carboxylic acids and ethoxylated derivatives thereof. The polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include almond glycerides PEG-20, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11 avocado glycerides, PEG-6 capric glycerides / capric glycerides / PEG-8 calyceans, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, herb glycerides of the ass PEG-60, glyceryl cocoate PEG-7, glyceryl cocoate PEG-30, glyceryl cocoate PEG-40, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl cocoate PEG-80, glyceryl dioleate PEG-12, isostearate PEG-15 glyceryl, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango glycerides, PEG-13 miniplic glycerides , PEG-75 butter glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm seed glycerides, PEG-45 palm seed glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can also be used herein. iv) Alkylene glycol esters of C? -C30 carboxylic acids, for example, ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di-esters of C? -C30 carboxylic acids for example, ethylene glycol distearate. v) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil can be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" in the sense in which it is used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under an atmosphere of pressure) of about 100 ° C or more. The term "volatile" in the sense in which it is used in this context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones that go through a wide variety of volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued December 3, 1991. Preferred organopolysiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethicones, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures are preferred herein. thereof. For use herein, polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones are more preferred. Among the preferred polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones. vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, shad oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, oil rapeseed oil, flaxseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, partial and fully hydrogenated oils from the above sources, and mixtures thereof. vii) animal fats and oils, for example, cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives of the same as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred. viii) Also useful are the alkyl ethers of C4-C20 polypropylene glycols, C? -C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and Cs-C3o di-alkyl ethers, examples of which include butyl ether PPG-14, stearyl ether PPG-15, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof. ix) carboxylic acid and polyol esters. x) mixtures of the above. Preferred emollients for use in the compositions herein are selected from dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower oil, castor oil, oil coconut, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, oil palm, peanut oil, soybean oil, carboxylic acid esters and polyol and mixtures thereof. The most preferred emollients for use herein are selected from esters of carboxylic acid and polyol, petrolatum and mixtures thereof. í. . r. AS &. &Ji í _L_. - These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol entity and one or more carboxylic acid entities. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mixed soybean oil fatty acid tetraesters, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, tetraesters of arabinose of linoleic acid, xylose tet ralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaolate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate , sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester entities are palmitoleate and arachididate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester entities are linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; the maltose heptaester where the esterifying entities of carboxylic acid are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3: 4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid entities are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid entities are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is the sucrose polyester in which the The degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid entities are mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic Cis, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the 15 octaester of sucrose in which there are approximately 7 behenic fatty acid entities and about 1 oleic acid entity in the molecule. Other materials include sucrose esters of fatty acid from seed oil 20 cotton or soybean oil. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; United States Patent No. 25 4,005,195, by Jandacek, granted on January 25, BÜltífe -. ¥ uk ü ír أ أ RA 1977, U.S. Patent No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., Issued on April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989; U.S. Patent No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. Patent No. 4,517,360, Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985. The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein may be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. technique. These methods include: transesterification of the polyol with methyl, ethyl or fatty acid esters and glycerol using a variety of catalysts; the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and the acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid, per se. See, for example, the patent of i a.

United States No. 2,831,854; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977. An especially preferred material is known under the name INCI polyco t t on s eeda t e of sucrose.

Other Skin Suitable Agents Other suitable skin agents may be useful in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of other skin-friendly agents that can be used in the compositions herein include: (a) Vitamin Compounds The compositions herein may comprise vitamin compounds, precursors, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be in either natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include Vitamin A compounds (eg, beta carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl proprionate, etc.), Vitamin B (eg, niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, etc.). ), Vitamin C (for example, ascorbic acid, etc.), Vitamin D (for example, Jt i - ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol, etc.), of Vitamin E (for example, tocopherol acetate, etc.) and of Vitamin K (for example, phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.). Preferred vitamin compounds for use in the compositions of the present invention are vitamin B3 compounds. The vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating the condition of the skin as described in WO-A-97/39733. When they are present, 10 compositions of the present invention preferably comprise between about 0.01% and 50%, more preferably between about 0.1% and 10%, even more preferably between about 0.5% and 5% by weight, of the compound of 15 vitamin B3. In the sense in which it is used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e., alcohol nicotinic lycopene); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above. Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl tertiary alcohols of carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from several sources, for example, the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). The vitamin compounds can be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by the physical and / or chemical isolation appropriate to natural sources (e.g., plants). (b) Anti-wrinkle and anti-atrophying active ingredients of the skin Examples of active anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy agents that can be used in l. ^ Á. RÁ Z tá A.? .l m? e r .-. , compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: lactic acid and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and its derivatives (eg, cis and trans); retinol; retinyl esters; niacinamide, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; amino acids D and L containing sulfur and its derivatives and salts, in particular the N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example thereof is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, for example, ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; Fatty acidic acid, and agents for skin peeling (eg, phenol and the like). (c) Antimicrobial and Antifungal Assets Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal active agents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxazie, ñor f loxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin , 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, Metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, metacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, clortet hydrochloride, racicline, 10 oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, metacycline hydrochloride, Methenamine, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, sulphate of 20 amanfadine, octopirox, parachlorometa xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole. ^^^ «- - (d) Assets for sunscreen The compositions herein may also comprise active for sunscreen. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are useful herein. These sunscreen agents include both organic compounds and their salts, as well as inorganic particulate materials. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that sunscreen agents provide protection from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms, which include: absorption, scattering, and reflection of ultraviolet radiation. Non-limiting examples of these sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. granted on December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,160,731, to Sabatelli et al., issued November 3, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,138,089, to Sabatelli, issued August 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282, to Sabatelli, issued August 20, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and Segarin, et al., in Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Among the preferred sunscreen agents are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethyhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, N, N-dimethylaminobenzoate of 2-ethylhexyl, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyl-benz imidazole-5-sulphonic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4 'me t oxy-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4 -, - dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethyl oxy) benzophenone, 4-N acid ester, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid with 4-hydroxydibenzoyl-methane, 4-N, N-dimethyl-laminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethyl ester, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) ester ) -aminobenzoic acid with 2,4-dihydroxybenzo-phenone, 4 -, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 2 -hydroxy - 4 - (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, -di (2-ethylhexy-1) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxybenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-di (2-ethylhexyl) aminobenzoic acid ester with 4 - (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethexyhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethexhexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy- - (2-hydroxyethyoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N- (2-ethexy-1) methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof. In the compositions described herein, those preferred for use to a greater extent are the sunscreen agents selected from the group consisting of N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate of 2-ethexyl, p-methoxycinnamate of 2-ethylhexyl, octocrylene, octyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-1-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3- i i r? & A. »M» * á > «Í i. Ra. ». (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-N, N- (2-ethexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, and mixtures thereof. The exact amounts of sunscreens that can be used will vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) that will be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen against redness. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978.

Thickeners The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise thickeners. Any suitable thickener for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. The preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water soluble polymers, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include these water soluble polymers such as cellulose ethers (eg, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl) the k.¿ & JL? £ i & M ^ - ^ t? methylcellulose, ethylhydroxy ethylcellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), poly (ethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, guar gum with hydroxypropyl, amylose, hydroxyethyl amylose, starch, and starch derivatives. Suitable fatty alcohols are non-volatile primary molecular weight alcohols having the general formula RCH20H wherein R is a Ce-2o alkyl. They can be produced from natural fats or oils by reducing the COH grouping of fatty acid to the hydroxyl function. Alternatively, fatty alcohols identical or similarly structured can be produced according to conventional synthetic methods known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to: behenyl alcohol, Cg-Cn alcohols, C? 2-C? 3 alcohols, C? 2-C? 5 alcohols, C12-C alco alco alcohols, C alco? Alcohols. 4-C? 5, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.

Polar Solvent The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a polar solvent. Any suitable polar solvent for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein. However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to lead to the formation of vesicles in the present invention. Preferably, the polar solvent used in the compositions of the present invention is water. Preferably, the compositions herein will comprise between 10% and 90%, more preferably between 20% and 80%, even more preferably between 30% and 60% by weight of polar solvent.

Other optional ingredients The compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of other optional components. These additional components must be pharmaceutically acceptable.

Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include: abrasives, absorbers, anti-acne actives, anti-caking agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirant agents, anti-oxidants, anti-viral active, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, biological additives, bleaches, bleaches activators, brighteners, formers, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetics, cleansers, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, deodorants, active ingredients for desquamation, depilators, astringents of drug, dyes, agents for transfer of dyes, enzymes, external analgesics, foam generators, flavorings, film formers, fragrance components, insect repellents, mold exterminators, non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory active, opacifying agents, oxidative dyes, oxidizing agents, ingredients for pest control, pH adjusters such as, for example, citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutical actives, plasticizing agents, preservatives, radical scavengers, for skin, hair or to discolor the nails, conditioners for the skin, hair or nails , intensifiers for penetration of skin, hair or nails, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing agents, temperature reducers, viscosity modifiers, and heat generators such as, for example, exothermic zeolites. Also useful in the present are aesthetic components such as, for example, dyes, essential oils and skin healing agents. Other optional materials herein include pigments. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and / or inorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials that have a low color or luster such as, for example, agents for matte finish, and also agents for light scattering. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, iron oxides with acylglutamate, titanium dioxide, navy blue, dyes D &; C, carmine, and mixtures thereof.

Formulation process Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are prepared in such a way that the , rtr-? ? .. Á. Í í í ...

Quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. It is preferred that the vesicles also comprise a humectant. Preferably, the vesicles also comprise an emollient. In order to ensure optimum performance characteristics, it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention be prepared as follows: (i) all or part of the quaternary ammonium agent is mixed with humectant, water-soluble skin care active (when included), and, preferably, polar solvent at a temperature that is higher than the melting point of the ammonium quaternary agent; (ii) optionally, the mixture is stirred vigorously; (iii) In a separate container the emulsion is prepared as follows; the oil phase containing the emollients, the relevant thickener in case the thickener is soluble oil and any remaining ammonium quaternary agent are mixed together at a temperature which is higher than the melting point of the quaternary ammonium agent. The aqueous phase is prepared separately. The water, the relevant thickener, in case the thickener is soluble in water, and any remaining water-soluble ingredients are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase. (iv) the temperature of the oil and the aqueous phases of the emulsion is approximately equalized and the aqueous phase is combined with the oil phase with stirring. (v) In the production of the emulsion, the mixture formed in step (i) is added to the emulsion mentioned above with stirring.

Method of use The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be used in a conventional manner for the treatment of the skin. An effective amount of the composition, usually between about 0.1 grams and 50 grams, preferably between about 1 gram and 20 grams, is applied to wet or dry, preferably wet, skin. The application of the composition usually includes working the composition on the skin, generally with the hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed.

The preferred method for treating the skin, therefore, comprises the steps of: (a) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin, (b) rinsing the skin. A preferred aspect of the present invention includes the above method with an application of the composition to dry skin before application to wet skin. Therefore, a preferred method comprises: (i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin; (ii) rinse the skin under the shower; (iii) application of an additional amount of the composition; and (iv) further rinsing. Most damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure to surfactant-containing compositions during washing routines. It has been found that this damage can be mitigated using the compositions herein. Therefore, another preferred method comprises: (i) washing the skin using a composition comprising surfactants; . * & & I (ii) rinse the skin; (iii) applying to the wet skin a composition according to the present invention; (iv) rinse the skin. It has been found that the compositions herein are particularly useful when incorporated as part of a regular routine. Therefore, another preferred method comprises: (i) applying to the skin a composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; (b) a humectant; and (ii) rinsing the skin; (iii) repeat steps (i) and (ii) within a 48-hour period. The compositions herein may also be useful for mitigating the damage caused by exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation, the damage caused by exposure of the skin to water during swimming exercises or the like, damage caused by shaving or exfoliation. or the damage caused by the exposure of the skin to water during bathing. * -s s- * Examples The following examples further illustrate the preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided for purposes of illustration only and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention as many variations of the invention are possible without departing from its spirit or scope. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed as a percentage by weight of the active ingredient. * í í -. »» ** . < .l «a * .l? i rl . m i lAi .luí A-J J -sl-4 i < & AÍ ¿»• - ,; Available from Croda Available from Floratech, AZ, USA Available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA Available from Amerchol, NJ, USA Available from Rhodia, NJ, USA • In the examples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, -di Metisulphate ( canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620. • In examples 11, 25, 29, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18 . T i i xí? i > i n.?&Ztt • In Examples 12, 30, 32, the quaternary ammonium compound used is N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -monium chloride supplied by Goldschmidt, developing material (E25) «In examples 13, 39, 40, 42, the quaternary ammonium compound used is methyl sulfate Methylbis (hydrogenated tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 110.

• In Examples 14, 43, 44 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methylbis- (tallowamidoethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium methylisulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 222.

Process For those examples that include component C: 1. Premix 1: Combine the components of group A together at a temperature higher than the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, keeping behind a predetermined portion of the quaternary ammonium compound and Water. Shake this premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Combine the components of groups B and C with the remaining portions of the quaternary ammonium compounds and water not previously used in premix 1.

Heat above the quaternary melting point and oils. 3. Combine Premix 1 and 2 and let cool to 40 ° C, stir in the perfume.

For those examples that include component D: 1. Premix 1: Combine the components of group A together at a temperature higher than the transition temperature of the selected quaternary ammonium compound, keeping behind a predetermined portion of the water. Shake this premix vigorously. 2. Premix 2: Combine with agitation the components of group D with water not previously used in premix 1. 3. Combine premix 1 and 2 and the components of groups B and E. Shake vigorously. The compositions of the above examples provide good benefits for skin care, such as, for example, good wetting, good hydration, good skin feeling, good skin smoothness and / or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negative effects such as, for example, greasy, viscous or sticky character. ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ 14

Claims (10)

1. CLAIMS 1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded; and (b) at least 5% by weight of a humectant.
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.01%, more preferably at least 1% by weight, of the quaternary ammonium agent that can be easily biodegraded.
3. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the composition comprises at least 7.5%, more preferably at least 10% by weight of the humectant.
4. 4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein the humectant is selected from glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
5. 5. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises vesicles, wherein the vesicles comprise the quaternary ammonium agent and a humectant.
6. 6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium agent is selected from those that are capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents, as detected by microscopic analysis.
7. 7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein the quaternary ammonium agent is selected from N, N-di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N, N-dimethylammonium chloride, N, N-di (canolyl-oxy) methylisulfate ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium, N, N- di (canolyl-oxy-ethyl) -N-methyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
8. 8. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises an emollient.
9. 9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 3%, preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant.
10. 10. The use of the composition according to any of the preceding claims for the treatment of the skin.