KR101031718B1 - Mixed yarn of silk and ramie, method for producing mixed yarn of silk and ramie - Google Patents
Mixed yarn of silk and ramie, method for producing mixed yarn of silk and ramie Download PDFInfo
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- KR101031718B1 KR101031718B1 KR1020080063709A KR20080063709A KR101031718B1 KR 101031718 B1 KR101031718 B1 KR 101031718B1 KR 1020080063709 A KR1020080063709 A KR 1020080063709A KR 20080063709 A KR20080063709 A KR 20080063709A KR 101031718 B1 KR101031718 B1 KR 101031718B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
- D01G13/00—Mixing, e.g. blending, fibres; Mixing non-fibrous materials with fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
- D01G1/00—Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. stapling
- D01G1/06—Converting tows to slivers or yarns, e.g. in direct spinning
- D01G1/10—Converting tows to slivers or yarns, e.g. in direct spinning by cutting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
- D01G15/00—Carding machines or accessories; Card clothing; Burr-crushing or removing arrangements associated with carding or other preliminary-treatment machines
- D01G15/02—Carding machines
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
- D01G15/00—Carding machines or accessories; Card clothing; Burr-crushing or removing arrangements associated with carding or other preliminary-treatment machines
- D01G15/02—Carding machines
- D01G15/12—Details
- D01G15/46—Doffing or like arrangements for removing fibres from carding elements; Web-dividing apparatus; Condensers
- D01G15/64—Drafting or twisting apparatus associated with doffing arrangements or with web-dividing apparatus
- D01G15/68—Drafting or twisting apparatus associated with doffing arrangements or with web-dividing apparatus with arrangements inserting permanent twist, e.g. spinning
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
- D02G3/042—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
- D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/02—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fibres, slivers or rovings
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/08—Ramie
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/063—Load-responsive characteristics high strength
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 실크섬유 30 내지 80 중량％와 모시섬유 20 내지 70 중량％를 조합하고, 조합된 섬유를 얇은 섬유막의 형태인 웹을 제조하며, 제조된 웹을 적절한 폭으로 분할하는 카딩(Carding)공정을 거치고, 정방기를 이용하여 정방하여 실크와 모시의 혼방사를 제조하는 방법 및 상기의 제조방법에 의하여 제조된 혼방사에 관한 것이다.The present invention is a carding process of combining 30 to 80% by weight of silk fibers and 20 to 70% by weight of ramie fibers, producing a web in the form of a thin fibrous film, and dividing the prepared web into an appropriate width. After passing through, using a spinning machine to produce a blended yarn of silk and ramie and to a blended yarn produced by the above production method.
본 발명에 의한 혼방사 제조방법은 실크가 가지는 장점과 모시가 가지는 장점을 잘 조화하여, 저렴하면서도 우수한 강도와 신도를 가지며 광택성, 흡습성, 통풍성, 착용감 등이 뛰어난 실크와 모시 혼방사를 제공한다.The blended yarn production method according to the present invention blends the advantages of silk and the advantages of ramie, and provides silk and ramie blend yarn having excellent strength and elongation, and excellent gloss, hygroscopicity, breathability, and fit, etc., inexpensive.
혼방사, 실크, 모시, 카딩, 번수, 꼬임수, 혼방직물 Blended yarn, silk, ramie, carding, count, twist, blended fabric
Description
본 발명은 실크와 모시 혼방사 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 실크의 특성과 모시의 특성을 살려 실크섬유와 모시섬유를 혼합하고, 얇은 섬유막형태의 웹을 제조하고, 제조된 웹을 적절한 폭으로 분할하고,정방공정을 거쳐 실크와 모시로 이루어진 혼방사를 제조하는 방법과 상기의 방법에 의하여 제조된 실크와 모시 혼방사 및 상기 실크와 모시 혼방사를 사용하여 제조된 직물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to silk and ramie blend yarns and a method of manufacturing the same, and more particularly, to mix silk fibers and ramie fibers by utilizing the characteristics of silk and ramie, to prepare a thin fibrous film-like web, The present invention relates to a method for producing a blended yarn composed of silk and ramie by dividing into an appropriate width and to a square process, and to a fabric produced using the silk and ramie blend yarn and the silk and ramie blend yarn prepared by the above method.
최근 웰빙 열풍으로 천연소재에 관한 관심이 증가하고 있다. 과거에도 실크, 면 등의 천연 섬유소재는 다양한 제품에 사용되어 왔으며, 이들 천연 섬유들의 조합으로 생산된 혼방사의 제조도 활발히 이루어져 오고 있다.Recently, interest in natural materials is increasing due to the well-being craze. In the past, natural fiber materials such as silk and cotton have been used in various products, and the production of blended yarns produced from a combination of these natural fibers has been actively performed.
최근의 의류 트렌드 경향을 보아도 단일 소재 보다는 다양한 복합 소재가 많이 이용되고 있으며, 단일 소재가 가지는 단점을 커버하고, 다양해진 소비심리를 만족시킬 수 있는 장점이 있다.Even in the recent trend of clothing, a variety of composite materials are used more than a single material, and cover the disadvantages of a single material, there is an advantage that can satisfy the diversified consumer sentiment.
실크의 경우에도 다양한 이종 섬유와의 복합소재가 개발되어 기능성과 실용 성을 증대시키면서도 가격을 낮춘 제품이 개발되고 있다.In the case of silk, composite materials with various heterogeneous fibers have been developed to increase the functionality and practicality while lowering the price.
그러나, 실크와 모시의 혼방사는 모시가 실크에 비하여 저급한 섬유로 인식되어온 점, 모시는 소재의 특성상 여름소재로 인식된 점, 모시와 실크의 상이한 염색성, 모시를 방적하기 위해서는 모시를 분섬시켜야 되는데 그러한 기술이 개발되지 않았던 점 등의 문제로 인하여 실크와 모시의 혼방사의 개발이 이루어지지 않았다. 이로 인하여 실크의 부드러운 촉감, 아름다운 광택, 흡.방습성, 보온성, 드레이프성, 유연성 등의 장점과, 모시의 높은 강도, 우수한 흡수력과 발산력, 까칠까칠한 표면특성으로 인해 피부에 달라붙지 않는 장점을 살리면서, 실크의 형태불안정성, 취급과 보관이 어려운 점 등의 단점과 모시의 낮은 신축성, 구김성, 높은 열전도율 등의 단점을 보완하는 혼방사와 혼방직물이 개발되지 못했다.However, the blend of silk and ramie yarn has been recognized as a lower fiber than silk, and the ramie is regarded as a summer material due to the nature of the material, and the different dyeability of ramie and silk and ramie must be divided to spun yarn. Due to problems such as this was not developed, the development of a blend of silk and ramie was not made. This results in the silk's soft touch, beautiful luster, moisture absorption, moisture retention, warmth, drape and flexibility, and its high strength, excellent absorption and divergence, and the tough surface properties that make it hard to stick to the skin. However, blended yarns and blended fabrics have not been developed to compensate for the disadvantages of morphological instability, difficulty in handling and storage of silk, and disadvantages such as low elasticity, wrinkleability, and high thermal conductivity.
종래 실크와 모시의 단점을 보완하기 위하여, 실크와 모시의 교직물에 관한 연구와 특허출원이 있어왔다. 그러나 이러한 교직물은 방향에 따른 특성이 상이하고, 실크와 모시의 염색성의 차이를 극복하지 못하는 등 많은 문제점이 있었다.In order to make up for the shortcomings of conventional silk and ramie, there have been studies and patent applications on silk and ramie fabrics. However, these teaching fabrics have a variety of problems, such as different characteristics according to the direction, do not overcome the difference in the dyeability of silk and ramie.
모시와 실크의 혼방사를 제조하기 위해서는 모시를 혼방에 적합하게 분섬하여야 하는데, 본 출원인은 특허등록 제 0543554호에서 모시의 분섬기술에 관하여 특허를 받았으며, 실크와 모시 혼방사의 제조가능성을 높였다.In order to prepare a blended yarn of ramie and silk, it is necessary to split the ramie suitably for blending. Applicant has been granted a patent on the spinning technique of ramie in patent registration No. 0543554, and has increased the possibility of producing silk and ramie blend yarn.
본 발명은 상기 종래기술의 문제점을 해소하기 위하여, 실크와 모시를 조합하여 혼방사를 제조하는 방법을 제공하고, 그 제조방법에 의하여 제조된 실크와 모 시 혼방사 및 이를 이용한 혼방직물을 제공하여, 양 섬유의 장단점을 보완할 수 있는 새로운 섬유소재를 제공함에 그 목적이 있다.The present invention provides a method for producing a blended yarn by combining silk and ramie, in order to solve the problems of the prior art, by providing a silk and wool blended yarn and a blended fabric using the same by the production method, The purpose is to provide a new fiber material that can complement the advantages and disadvantages of the fiber.
본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사 제조방법은 실크섬유와 모시섬유를 혼합하고, 방모유, 대전방지제 및 물을 공급하고, 14 ∼ 20 시간 동안 에이징(ageing)하는 조합공정(S20)과 조합공정을 통해 골고루 조합된 섬유를 얇은 섬유막 형태의 웹을 제조하고 상기 제조된 웹을 일정한 폭으로 분할하는 카딩(Carding)공정(S30)과 카딩공정을 거쳐 제조된 웹을 정방기를 이용하여 정방하는 정방공정(S40)으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 한다.Silk and ramie blend yarn production method according to the present invention is a combination process (S20) and a combination step of mixing silk fibers and ramie fibers, supplying woolen milk, antistatic agent and water, and aged (ageing) for 14 to 20 hours Square process for producing a web in the form of a thin fibrous film evenly combined fibers through the spinning and carding process (S30) for dividing the produced web into a predetermined width and square the web manufactured through a carding process using a square machine ( S40) characterized in that.
이 경우,상기 조합공정에 앞서 방적하기에 적합한 일정한 길이로 절단된 실크 및 모시 슬라이버를 동일한 색상을 가지도록 개별 염색하는 공정(S10)을 선행하는 것을 특징으로 할 수 있다.In this case, it may be characterized in that it precedes the step (S10) of individually dyeing the silk and ramie sliver cut to a predetermined length suitable for spinning before the combination process to have the same color.
또한, 상기 조합공정(S20)은 상기 실크섬유 30 내지 80 중량％에 모시섬유 20 내지 70 중량％를 혼합하고, 혼합된 섬유중량에 대하여 방모유 0.03∼0.04, 대전방지제 0.01∼0.02, 물 0.08∼0.12 의 비로 공급하고, 14∼20시간 동안 에이징(ageing)하는 것으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하며, 상기 정방공정(S40)은 공통번수 1/16Nm 내지 1/25Nm 굵기로, 꼬임수 11.5 TPI 내지 14.3 TPI로 정방하는 것을 특징으로 한다.In the combining step (S20), 20 to 70% by weight of the ramie fibers is mixed with 30 to 80% by weight of the silk fiber, and 0.03 to 0.04 of woolen milk, 0.01 to 0.02 of the antistatic agent, and 0.08 to water, based on the blended fiber weight. It is supplied in a ratio of 0.12, characterized in that consisting of aging (ageing) for 14 to 20 hours, the spinning process (S40) is a common number of 1 / 16Nm to 1 / 25Nm thickness, twist number of 11.5 TPI to 14.3 TPI It is characterized by spinning.
상기의 실크와 모시 혼방사 제조방법에 의하여 실크와 모시의 혼방사가 제조된다. 제조된 실크와 모시 혼방사를 이용하여 직물을 방적할 수 있다. 실크와 모시 혼방사만을 경사와 위사로 사용하여 혼방직물을 제조할 수 있으며, 경우에 따라 경사만을 실크와 모시 혼방사를 사용하거나, 위사만을 실크와 모시 혼방사를 사용할 수 있다. 이 경우 혼방사가 사용되지 않는 경사 또는 위사는 면사, 견사, 양모사 등의 천연사, 또는 레이온, 폴리에스테르 등의 인조사 중 어느 하나를 선택하여 사용할 수 있다. 또한, 천연사 또는 인조사의 혼방사와 교직하여 혼방직물을 제조할 수도 있다.Blended yarns of silk and ramie are prepared by the method of producing silk and ramie blend yarns. The fabric can be spun using the prepared silk and ramie blend yarns. It is possible to produce a blended fabric using only silk and ramie blend yarns as warp and weft yarns, and optionally silk and ramie blend yarns can be used, or only weft yarns can use silk and ramie blend yarns. In this case, the warp or weft yarn in which the blended yarn is not used may be used by selecting any one of natural yarns such as cotton yarn, silk yarn and wool yarn, or phosphorus such as rayon and polyester. It is also possible to prepare a blended fabric by teaching with a blended yarn of natural or phosphorous yarn.
본 발명은 실크와 모시의 장점을 살리고, 단점을 서로 보완할 수 있는 실크와 모시의 혼방사를 제공한다.The present invention utilizes the advantages of silk and ramie, and provides a blend of silk and ramie that can complement the disadvantages.
모시와 실크를 개별 선염하고, 일정비율로 조합하고, 카딩 및 정방과정을 거쳐 혼방사를 제조하고, 제조된 실크와 모시 혼방사를 이용한 혼방직물을 제조함으로써 제직성과 방적성이 뛰어나면서, 우수한 인장 강도와 신도를 가지는 새로운 소재를 제공하게 되는 것이다.It is excellent in weaving and spinning property by making yarn and silk separately, combining them in a certain ratio, manufacturing blended yarns through carding and spinning process, and preparing blended fabrics using the manufactured silk and yarn blended yarns. It will provide a new material with elongation.
또한, 실크의 우수한 광택성, 보온성 등의 장점을 살리면서도 실크의 단점인 형태불안정성, 취급상의 난점을 극복하는 실크와 모시 혼방사 및 혼방직물을 제공하는 효과를 가진다.In addition, it has the effect of providing silk and ramie blend yarns and blended fabrics to overcome the disadvantages of the form, stability, handling difficulties while taking advantage of the excellent gloss, warmth and the like of the silk.
또한 실크와 모시의 열전도율의 차이를 이용하여 실크와 모시의 비율을 조절함으로써, 각 계절에 맞는 직물을 생산할 수 있게 되었다.In addition, by controlling the ratio of silk and ramie by using the difference in thermal conductivity of silk and ramie, it is possible to produce a fabric for each season.
본 명세서 및 청구범위에 사용된 용어나 단어는 통상적이거나 사전적인 의미 로 한정해서 해석되어서는 아니되며, 발명자는 그 자신의 발명을 가장 최선의 방법으로 설명하기 위해 용어의 개념을 적절하게 정의할 수 있다는 원칙에 입각하여 본 발명의 기술적 사상에 부합하는 의미와 개념으로 해석되어야만 한다.The terms or words used in this specification and claims are not to be construed as limiting in their usual or dictionary meanings, and the inventors may appropriately define the concept of terms in order to best describe their invention. It should be interpreted as meaning and concept corresponding to the technical idea of the present invention based on the principle that the present invention.
따라서, 본 명세서에 기재된 실시예와 도면에 도시된 구성은 본 발명의 가장 바람직한 일 실시예에 불과할 뿐이고 본 발명의 기술적 사상을 모두 대변하는 것은 아니므로, 본 출원시점에 있어서 이들을 대체할 수 있는 다양한 균등물과 변형예들이 있을 수 있음을 이해하여야 한다.Therefore, the embodiments described in the specification and the drawings shown in the drawings are only the most preferred embodiment of the present invention and do not represent all of the technical idea of the present invention, various modifications that can be replaced at the time of the present application It should be understood that there may be equivalents and variations.
본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사 및 제조방법을 이하 상세히 설명한다.The silk and ramie blend yarn and the production method according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사의 제조방법은 도1, 도2에 도시된 바와 같은 공정을 통하여 이루어진다. 주요한 공정을 보면 아래와 같다.The method for producing silk and ramie blend yarn according to the present invention is made through the process as shown in Figs. The main processes are as follows.
1. 염색공정(S10)1. Dyeing process (S10)
일반적으로 직물의 색상은 직물을 제조한 이후에 염색하는 것이 일반적이다. 그러나 실크와 모시의 혼방사로 제직한 직물은 실크와 모시의 염색특성이 달라 혼방사를 제조하기 전에 먼저 염색공정을 거친다.In general, the color of the fabric is generally dyed after the fabric is made. However, fabrics woven with a blend of silk and ramie have different dyeing characteristics of silk and ramie, so they are first dyed before the blended yarn is manufactured.
염색공정은 반드시 선행되어야 하는 공정은 아니며, 직물이 일정한 색상을 가져야 하는 경우에는 선행되는 것이 바람직하다.The dyeing process is not necessarily a process to be preceded, and is preferably preceded when the fabric should have a certain color.
먼저 실크와 모시의 슬라이버(sliver)를 준비하고, 방적에 적합한 길이(약 3cm 내지 5cm)로 절단하고 캐리어 염색기를 이용하여 개별 염색한다.First, slivers of silk and ramie are prepared, cut into lengths suitable for spinning (about 3 cm to 5 cm) and individually dyed using a carrier dyeing machine.
2. 조합공정(S20)2. Combination Process (S20)
조합공정은 실크와 모시를 일정하게 섞는 공정이다. 조합공정은 실크와 모시 가 균일하게 조합이 되느냐에 따라 최종 제품의 품질을 좌우하게 되는 중요한 공정이다.The combination process is a process of mixing silk and ramie regularly. The combination process is an important process that determines the quality of the final product depending on whether silk and ramie are evenly combined.
실크와 모시는 일정한 길이로 절단하여 조합한다. 실크와 모시는 실크 30 내지 80 중량％와 모시 20 내지 70 중량％로 혼합하는 것이 바람직하다.Silk and ramie are cut and combined to a certain length. Silk and ramie are preferably mixed in 30 to 80% by weight of silk and 20 to 70% by weight of ramie.
이때, 높은 보온성을 필요로 하는 경우에는 실크의 비율을 높이고, 시원한 소재가 필요한 경우에는 모시의 비율을 높게 혼합한다. 상기의 비율과 다르게 혼합하는 것도 가능하지만, 실크의 비율이 너무 높은 경우에는 경제성이 낮아지고, 모시의 비율이 너무 높은 경우에는 방적성이 떨어지고, 실크가 가지는 장점이 살아나기 어렵다.At this time, when high heat retention is required, the ratio of silk is increased, and when a cool material is required, the ratio of ramie is mixed high. It is also possible to mix differently from the above ratio, but when the ratio of silk is too high, the economical efficiency is low, and when the ratio of ramie is too high, the spinning property is inferior, and the advantage that silk has is difficult to survive.
본 공정에서는 실크와 모시의 혼합섬유에 혼합섬유의 중량대비 방모유 0.03∼0.04, 대전지방제 0.01∼0.02, 물 0.08∼0.12 의 비로 공급하고, 14∼20시간 동안 에이징(ageing)하여 섬유에 방모유를 흡수시키고, 모시의 숨을 죽임으로써 방적성을 높인다.In this process, the blended fibers of silk and ramie are fed at a ratio of woolen oil 0.03 to 0.04, charged fat agent 0.01 to 0.02, and water 0.08 to 0.12 relative to the weight of the mixed fibers, and aged for 14 to 20 hours to prevent fibers from aging. It absorbs breast milk and improves spinning by killing breath of ramie.
3. 카딩(carding)공정(S30)3. Carding process (S30)
본 공정은 조합된 실크와 모시의 조합원료를 방모카드로 투입하여 얇은 섬유막 형태인 웹을 제조한다. 방모카드는 3대의 로울러 카드를 연결해서 사용하며, 첫번째 카드는 브레이커 카드(breaker card)로 강침을 감은 실린더에 의해 단단하게 뭉쳐진 원료를 예비적인 개모를 한다. 두번째 카드는 인터메디에이트 카드(intermediate card)로 피이드 로울러 및 지름이 작고 성긴 침포로 원료를 실린더로 옮겨준다. 세번째인 콘덴서 카드(condenser card)는 도퍼에서 웹를 분할해서 다 수의 조사를 만드는 콘덴서가 연결되어 있다. 본 공정에서는 롤러의 페랄타(peralta) 압력을 울(wool) 혼방사 작업에 비하여 약 10％ 내지 20％ 높여줌으로써 모시의 터치감을 높이고, 가방성을 향상시킬 수 있다.This process prepares a web in the form of a thin fibrous membrane by adding the combined raw materials of silk and ramie as a woolen card. The woolen card is used by connecting three roller cards, and the first card is a preliminary reclaiming of raw materials that are tightly bound by a cylinder wound with a breaker card. The second card is an intermediate card, which feeds the material into the cylinder with a feed roller and a small, coarse needle. The third condenser card is connected to a condenser, which divides the web from the doffer and creates multiple irradiations. In this process, the peralta pressure of the roller is increased by about 10% to 20% as compared to the wool blended yarn operation, thereby improving the touch feeling of the ramie and improving bagability.
4. 정방공정(S40)4. Spinning process (S40)
상기 카딩공정을 거쳐 제조된 웹을 통상의 방법으로 로빙(roving)한 후, 정방기에서 정방된다. 본 정방공정에서는 공통번수 1/16Nm 내지 1/25Nm 굵기로, 꼬임수 11.5 TPI 내지 14.3 TPI로 정방하는 것이 바람직하다.After roving the web produced through the carding process in a conventional manner, it is spun in a spinning machine. In this spinning step, it is preferable to square with a twist number of 11.5 TPI to 14.3 TPI with a common number of 1 / 16Nm to 1 / 25Nm thickness.
5. 권사 및 제직공정(S50, S60)5. Winding and weaving process (S50, S60)
상기 정방공정으로 제조된 혼방사는 통상의 권사공정을 거친 후 최종제품으로 제조된다. 또한 권사공정을 거친 실크와 모시 혼방사를 통상의 제직공정을 통하여 실크와 모시 혼방 직물이 제조된다.The blended yarn produced by the spinning process is produced as a final product after the usual winding process. In addition, silk and ramie blend yarns which have undergone a winding process are manufactured through a conventional weaving process.
본 발명을 실시예를 통하여 보다 상세하게 설명한다. 아래 실시예1 내지 실시예4는 실크와 모시 혼방사에 관한 것이며, 실시예5는 실크와 모시 혼방사를 사용하여 제직한 직물에 관한 것이다. 이하의 실시예는 본 발명이 최적으로 실시될 수 있는 일례를 나타낸 것으로서, 이에 의해 본 발명이 한정되는 것은 아니다.The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. Examples 1-4 below relate to silk and ramie blend yarns, and Example 5 relates to fabrics woven using silk and ramie blend yarns. The following examples show one example in which the present invention may be optimally implemented, and the present invention is not limited thereto.
(실시예1)Example 1
실크와 모시의 혼용율을 80중량％ : 20중량％ 비율로 혼용하여 카딩 한 후 테이프 콘덴서를 사용하여 로빙하였으며, 이후 뮬(Mule) 정방기에서 공통번수 1/16 Nm 내지 1/25Nm의 굵기로 , 꼬임수 11.8 내지 14.3 TPI로 정방하여 혼방사를 제조 하였다. 카딩 공정시 얇은 섬유막 형태의 균일한 웹이 제조된 것을 확인하였으며, 제조된 제품에 대하여 인장강도 평가결과 통상의 실크 혼방섬유와 거의 동일한 수준임을 확인하였다.After mixing and mixing the blend ratio of silk and ramie at a ratio of 80% by weight to 20% by weight, and then roving using a tape condenser, the thickness of the common number of 1/16 Nm to 1 / 25Nm in the Mule spinning machine, The blended yarn was prepared by twisting 11.8 to 14.3 TPI. In the carding process, it was confirmed that a uniform web in the form of a thin fibrous membrane was produced. The tensile strength of the manufactured product was confirmed to be almost the same level as that of the normal silk blend fiber.
(실시예2)Example 2
실크와 모시의 혼용율을 70중량％ : 30중량％ 비율로 혼용하고, 공통번수 1/16 Nm 내지 1/25Nm의 굵기로 , 꼬임수 11.5 내지 13.5 TPI로 정방하여 혼방사를 제조한 것을 제외하고 상기 실시예1과 동일하게 수행하였다.The blending of silk and ramie was carried out in a 70% by weight: 30% by weight ratio, and was mixed with a thickness of common number 1/16 Nm to 1 / 25Nm and squared at a twist number of 11.5 to 13.5 TPI. It carried out similarly to Example 1.
(실시예3)Example 3
실크와 모시의 혼용율을 50중량％ : 50중량％ 비율로 혼용하고, 공통번수 1/16 Nm 내지 1/25Nm의 굵기로 , 꼬임수 11.8 내지 13.0 TPI로 정방하여 혼방사를 제조한 것을 제외하고 상기 실시예1과 동일하게 수행하였다.The above mixing was carried out except that the blending ratio of silk and ramie was mixed at a ratio of 50% by weight to 50% by weight, and a mixed yarn was prepared by spinning at a twist number of 11.8 to 13.0 TPI with a thickness of common number 1/16 Nm to 1 / 25Nm. It carried out similarly to Example 1.
(실시예4)Example 4
실크와 모시의 혼용율을 40중량％ : 60중량％ 비율로 혼용하고, 공통번수 1/16 Nm 내지 1/25Nm의 굵기로 , 꼬임수 11.5 내지 13.5 TPI로 정방하여 혼방사를 제조한 것을 제외하고 상기 실시예1과 동일하게 수행하였다.The above-mentioned mixing was carried out except that the blend ratio of silk and ramie was mixed at a ratio of 40% by weight to 60% by weight, and a mixed yarn was prepared by spinning at a thickness of 11.5-13.5 TPI with a thickness of common number 1/16 Nm to 1 / 25Nm. It carried out similarly to Example 1.
실시예1 내지 실시예4에 따른 혼방사의 혼용율과 섬도는 아래표1과 같다.The mixing ratio and fineness of the blended yarns according to Examples 1 to 4 are shown in Table 1 below.
[표1]Table 1
상기 표1에 따른 혼방사를 제조하고 혼방사에 따른 방적성을 실험한 결과, 방적 수율은 각 색상 및 번수별로 조합량이 500kg 이상일 때는 90％이상의 비교적 높은 수율이 가능하였다.As a result of manufacturing the blended yarn according to Table 1 and experimenting the spinning properties according to the blended yarn, the spinning yield was relatively high yield of more than 90% when the combination amount is 500kg or more for each color and number of times.
상기 표1에 따른 실크와 모시 혼방사에 대한 인장 강도(gf)와 신도(％)는 사인장 강도 시험기(스위스, USTER TENSORAPID 4, Zellweger Uster)를 사용하여 항온항습실에서 KS K 0402에 준하여 시험하였다. 아래 표2는 실험결과를 정리한 것이다.Tensile strength (gf) and elongation (%) for silk and ramie blend yarns according to Table 1 were tested according to KS K 0402 in a constant temperature and humidity room using a sinusoidal strength tester (Switzerland, USTER TENSORAPID 4, Zellweger Uster). Table 2 below summarizes the experimental results.
[표 2]TABLE 2
(실시예5)Example 5
상기의 실크와 모시의 혼방사를 사용하여, 제직기에 경사와 위사의 굵기와 밀도를 달리하여 제직하였고, 조직은 4매 주자직으로 제직하였다. 표3은 제직한 직물의 실시예를 나타낸 것이다.Using the blended yarn of silk and ramie, weaving machines were made with different warp and weft thicknesses and densities, and the tissues were woven into four runners. Table 3 shows examples of woven fabrics.
[표 3][Table 3]
상기 표3에 따라 제직된 직물에 대하여 직물의 굽힘특성과 표면거칠기를 측정하였다. 굽힘 특성의 중요한 파라미터는 굽힘 강성(B)과 굽힘 히스테리시스(2HB)로써 굽힘 강성은 실의 탄성성분에 기인하며, 굽힘 히스테리시스는 실과 실의 마찰에서 발생한다.실크와 모시 혼방사로 제직한 직물의 굽힘 특성과 표면거칠기를 측정한 결과는 표4와 표5에 정리하였다. 굽힘특성은 태측정시험기(일본, KES-FB SYSTEM, KE-4)를 사용하여 항온항습실에서 시험하였으며, 표면거칠기는 태측정시험기(일본, KES-FB SYSTEM,KE-4)를 사용하여 항온항습실에서 시험하였다.The bending characteristics and the surface roughness of the fabric were measured for the fabric woven according to Table 3 above. Important parameters of bending characteristics are bending stiffness (B) and bending hysteresis (2HB), where bending stiffness is due to the elasticity of the yarn, and bending hysteresis occurs in the friction between the yarn and the yarn. The results of measuring the characteristics and the surface roughness are summarized in Tables 4 and 5. The bending characteristics were tested in a constant temperature and humidity room using a measurement tester (Japan, KES-FB SYSTEM, KE-4), and the surface roughness was measured in a constant temperature and humidity room using a measurement tester (Japan, KES-FB SYSTEM, KE-4). Tested at
[표 4][Table 4]
[표 5]TABLE 5
도1은 본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사의 제조공정을 개략적으로 도시한 도면.1 is a view schematically showing a manufacturing process of silk and woolen blend yarn according to the present invention.
도2는 본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사와 실크와 모시 혼방직물의 제조공정을 개략적으로 도시한 도면.Figure 2 is a schematic diagram illustrating a process for producing silk and ramie blend yarns and silk and ramie blend fabrics according to the present invention.
도3은 본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사 제조방법에 의해 제조된 혼방사.Figure 3 is a blended yarn produced by the silk and wool blended yarn production method according to the present invention.
도4는 본 발명에 의한 실크와 모시 혼방사로 이루어진 실크와 모시 혼방직물.Figure 4 is a silk and ramie blend fabric consisting of silk and ramie blend yarn according to the present invention.
＜도면의 주요부호에 관한 설명＞<Description of Major Symbols in Drawing>
S10 : 염색공정 S20 : 조합공정S10: Dyeing Process S20: Combination Process
S30 : 카딩공정 S40 : 정방공정S30: Carding Process S40: Square Process
S50 : 권사공정 S60 : 제직공정S50: Winding process S60: Weaving process
Claims (8)
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| KR20100003128A KR20100003128A (en) | 2010-01-07 |
| KR101031718B1 true KR101031718B1 (en) | 2011-05-04 |
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| KR1020080063709A KR101031718B1 (en) | 2008-06-30 | 2008-06-30 | Mixed yarn of silk and ramie, method for producing mixed yarn of silk and ramie |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR101246731B1 (en) | 2011-05-04 | 2013-03-25 | (주)영원코포레이션 | High density natural fabrics by cotton yarn/silk yarn and its manufacturing method |
Families Citing this family (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR101146685B1 (en) * | 2009-08-25 | 2012-05-22 | 한국실크연구원 | Method for fabricating washable silk/ramie hanbok |
| KR101229117B1 (en) * | 2012-01-31 | 2013-02-01 | 백승근 | Manufacturing method of ramie-reinforced natural yarns |
| KR101406075B1 (en) * | 2012-09-24 | 2014-06-11 | 한국실크연구원 | Blended yarn of silk selvage regenerated fiber and cellulose fiber, and preparation method of the same |
| KR101406074B1 (en) * | 2012-09-24 | 2014-06-11 | 한국실크연구원 | Preparation method of fine spun yarn, fine spun yarn, preparation method of blended yarn of silk selvage regenerated fiber, and blended yarn of silk selvage regenerated fiber |
| WO2014064661A2 (en) * | 2012-10-26 | 2014-05-01 | Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli S.P.A. | Method for manufacturing a silk-based fabric imitating a cashmere fabric |
| CN103603110B (en) * | 2013-11-19 | 2015-10-28 | 际华三五零九纺织有限公司 | The method of high-grade knitted yarn is produced in a kind of silkworm protein fiber and nandina, cotton blending |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4294709A (en) | 1979-01-26 | 1981-10-13 | Imperial Chemical Industries Limited | Spin finish with anti-static agent |
| KR910018629A (en) * | 1990-04-23 | 1991-11-30 | 김상응 | Silk spinning refining agent and treatment method |
| KR0137508B1 (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1998-05-15 | 조현준 | Hemp hosiery and process for its manufacture |
| KR100629993B1 (en) | 2005-05-16 | 2006-10-02 | 김기환 | Worsted yarn spinning method |
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4294709A (en) | 1979-01-26 | 1981-10-13 | Imperial Chemical Industries Limited | Spin finish with anti-static agent |
| KR910018629A (en) * | 1990-04-23 | 1991-11-30 | 김상응 | Silk spinning refining agent and treatment method |
| KR0137508B1 (en) * | 1995-07-20 | 1998-05-15 | 조현준 | Hemp hosiery and process for its manufacture |
| KR100629993B1 (en) | 2005-05-16 | 2006-10-02 | 김기환 | Worsted yarn spinning method |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR101246731B1 (en) | 2011-05-04 | 2013-03-25 | (주)영원코포레이션 | High density natural fabrics by cotton yarn/silk yarn and its manufacturing method |
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| KR20100003128A (en) | 2010-01-07 |
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