JPH0519346Y2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPH0519346Y2 JPH0519346Y2 JP1986201478U JP20147886U JPH0519346Y2 JP H0519346 Y2 JPH0519346 Y2 JP H0519346Y2 JP 1986201478 U JP1986201478 U JP 1986201478U JP 20147886 U JP20147886 U JP 20147886U JP H0519346 Y2 JPH0519346 Y2 JP H0519346Y2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- heathered
- fused
- twisted
- yarns
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 11
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000004927 fusion Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 235000013351 cheese Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 2
- YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methylidene-3,5-dioxabicyclo[5.2.2]undeca-1(9),7,10-triene-2,6-dione Chemical group C1(C2=CC=C(C(=O)OC(=C)O1)C=C2)=O LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000007575 Calluna vulgaris Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000035597 cooling sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000006870 function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003303 reheating Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011144 upstream manufacturing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Description
【考案の詳細な説明】
（産業上の利用分野）
本考案は麻に似たシヤリ感と全面に微細な杢調
を呈した清涼感に溢れる杢調柄編地に関するもの
である。[Detailed description of the invention] (Field of industrial application) The present invention relates to a knitted fabric with a heathered pattern that has a smooth feel similar to linen and a cool feeling with a fine heathered texture all over the surface.
（従来の技術）
従来、異染性のマルチフイラメントが混在した
糸条からなる杢調柄編地や仮撚融着糸を用いたシ
ヤリ感を有する編地が多数知られている。(Prior Art) Conventionally, many knitted fabrics with a heathered pattern made of yarns in which discolored multifilaments are mixed, and knitted fabrics with a smooth feel using false twisted fusion yarns are known.
（考案が解決しようとする問題点）
しかし従来知られている杢調やシヤリ感を持た
せた編地は麻様のシヤリ感ときめ細かな杢調を同
時に満足したものではない。(Problem to be solved by the invention) However, conventionally known knitted fabrics with a heathered feel or a silky feel do not simultaneously satisfy the silkiness of linen and a fine heathered feel.
例えば特公昭48−9226号公報には染色性の異な
る２種のマルチフイラメント糸からなる仮撚融着
糸が提案されている。この融着仮撚糸を用いた編
地は該融着仮撚糸の芯部が融接着し鞘部が捲縮を
有している構造であるためシヤリ感に乏しく杢調
の表面効果もほとんど得られないものである。 For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-9226 proposes a false-twist fused yarn consisting of two types of multifilament yarns having different dyeability. The knitted fabric using this fused false twisted yarn has a structure in which the core part of the fused false twisted yarn is fused and the sheath part has crimps, so it lacks a crisp feel and almost has a heathered surface effect. It's something that doesn't exist.
また特公昭56−43133号公報には染色性の異な
るマルチフイラメントが断面方向に互いに混在せ
ず独立した融着層を部分的に形成し、他の部分は
捲縮が付与されている糸条が開示されている。し
かしこのような糸条を用いた編地は該糸条に捲縮
部が含まれているため杢が粗く、杢流れが生じや
すいものとなる。さらに単に染色性が同じである
フイラメントで構成された融着仮撚糸と杢調を呈
する糸状を交編した編地はシヤリ感も杢調効果も
中途半端なものとなる。すなわち融着糸条と杢糸
を交編すると、融着糸条と杢糸が別々の編目に形
成されるため融着糸条から生ずるシヤリ感が半減
し、外観は全面杢調とならず、無地組織の場合は
鹿の子調やボーダー調となり、柄組織の場合は杢
調部分と無地調部分が分布した模様となる。特に
***柄組織の表面を全面杢調とするには表面編目
全部を杢糸で形成する必要がある。この場合は全
面杢調が得られる代わりにシヤリ感は全つたく得
られず、一方シヤリ感を付与するために単なる融
着仮撚糸を部分的に使用した場合は全面杢調が消
失してしまう。 Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-43133, multifilaments with different dyeability do not intermingle with each other in the cross-sectional direction, forming independent fusion layers in some parts, and crimped yarns in other parts. Disclosed. However, knitted fabrics using such yarns have rough heathering because the yarns include crimped portions, and are prone to flow. Furthermore, a knitted fabric in which a fused false twisted yarn composed of filaments having the same dyeability and a filament exhibiting a heathered texture are interknitted has an unsatisfactory smooth feel and heathered effect. In other words, when fused yarns and heathered yarns are mixed and knitted, the fused yarns and heathered yarns are formed in separate stitches, so the crisp feel caused by the fused yarns is halved, and the overall appearance does not become heathered. In the case of a plain weave, the pattern will be a pique-like or border-like pattern, and in the case of a patterned weave, the pattern will be a distribution of heather-like portions and plain-tone portions. In particular, in order to make the entire surface of the raised pattern structure have a heathered texture, it is necessary to form all the surface stitches with heathered yarn. In this case, although a heathered texture is obtained on the entire surface, the silky feel is not obtained at all.On the other hand, if simply fused false twisted yarn is partially used to impart a silky feel, the heathered texture disappears on the entire surface. .
本考案は、上記の点に鑑みてなされたものであ
つて、その目的とするところは、染色性が異なる
２種のマルチフイラメントを組み合わせた糸条か
ら従来困難であつたメリハリの強いきめ細かな杢
調と麻に似たシヤリ感を兼備した***柄の杢調柄
編地を提供することにある。 The present invention was developed in view of the above points, and its purpose is to create a finely grained grain with sharpness, which was previously difficult to create, from a yarn that combines two types of multifilaments with different dyeability. The purpose of this invention is to provide a heather pattern knitted fabric with a raised pattern that has both texture and a smooth feel similar to linen.
（問題点を解決するための手段）
すなわち本考案は、融着杢糸によつて表面組織
を形成している***柄編地において、該融着杢糸
は染色性の異なる２種の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチ
フイラメント糸が糸条長手方向に緊密撚糸部と嵩
高撚糸部を交互に有し、かつ該緊密撚糸部におい
て上記２種のマルチフイラメント糸のフイラメン
トがともに融着しており、しかも実質的に無撚部
を有しないことを特長とする杢調柄編地を要旨と
する。(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention provides a raised pattern knitted fabric in which the surface texture is formed by fused heathered yarns, in which the fused heathered yarns are made of two types of thermoplastics having different dyeability. The synthetic fiber multifilament yarn has tightly twisted portions and bulky twisted portions alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the filaments of the two types of multifilament yarns are fused together in the tightly twisted portion, and the filaments of the two multifilament yarns are substantially fused together. The main feature is a heathered pattern knitted fabric that is characterized by having no non-twisted parts.
以下、本考案を詳細に説明する。 The present invention will be explained in detail below.
本考案の編地は、少なくとも編地表面を構成す
る糸条が異染性フイラメントの混在した特殊な融
着杢糸であることと編地表面を柄状に***した編
組織である。 The knitted fabric of the present invention has a knitted structure in which at least the yarn constituting the surface of the knitted fabric is a special fused heathered yarn mixed with different dye filaments, and the surface of the knitted fabric is raised in a pattern.
ここで、異染性フイラメントの混在した特殊な
融着杢糸とは、第１に糸条の長手方向に緊密撚糸
部と嵩高撚糸部が交互に存在したものである。該
緊密撚糸部はＳ撚あるいはＺ撚を有し、一方嵩高
撚糸部は緊密撚糸部とは異なる方向の撚すなわち
Ｚ撚あるいはＳ撚を有する。しかも該緊密撚糸部
は細く集束しており該嵩高撚糸部は、該緊密撚糸
部に比べて太く集束しているため太細調の外観を
呈する。さらに緊密撚糸部と嵩高撚糸部の間にお
いて実質的に無撚部が存在せず、直ちに撚方向が
変化している。この撚方向変換部が長く存在する
と無撚部が形成されることになつて、この部分は
編地表面で曳け状の外観を呈しこれが欠点とな
る。 Here, the special fused heathered yarn containing a mixture of discolored filaments is one in which, firstly, closely twisted yarn portions and bulky twisted yarn portions are alternately present in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The tightly twisted yarn section has an S twist or a Z twist, while the bulky yarn section has a twist in a different direction than the tightly twisted yarn section, ie a Z twist or an S twist. Furthermore, the tightly twisted yarn portion is narrowly bundled, and the bulky twisted yarn portion is thickly bundled compared to the tightly twisted yarn portion, so that it has a thick and fine appearance. Further, there is substantially no non-twisted portion between the tightly twisted yarn portion and the bulky yarn portion, and the twist direction immediately changes. If this twist direction changing part exists for a long time, a non-twist part will be formed, and this part will have a ragged appearance on the surface of the knitted fabric, which is a drawback.
第２に、上記緊密撚糸部において染色性の異な
る２種のフイラメントがともに融着しておりこれ
により本考案の目的とする強いシヤリ感が得られ
る。ところが上記緊密撚糸部において１種のフイ
ラメントのみが融着している場合は糸条全体の剛
性が低くなり、シヤリ感はもとより張りと腰も満
足できないものとなる。一方、嵩高撚糸部におけ
るフイラメントの融着状態は緊密撚糸部よりも融
着している部分が少ないが、この嵩高撚糸部は異
染性フイラメントが混在し、撚によつて集束して
いるため、微細でメリハリの強い杢外観と集束に
よるシヤリ味効果が得られる。 Second, two types of filaments with different dyeability are fused together in the tightly twisted portion, thereby providing the strong silky feeling that is the object of the present invention. However, if only one type of filament is fused in the tightly twisted portion, the stiffness of the entire yarn becomes low, resulting in unsatisfactory silkiness as well as tension and stiffness. On the other hand, the fused state of the filaments in the bulky yarn part is smaller than that in the tightly twisted yarn part, but this bulky yarn part contains heterochromatic filaments and is bundled by twisting. You can get a fine, sharp heathered appearance and a shari effect by focusing.
本考案の杢調編地は、染色性の異なる２種の熱
可塑性マルチフイラメント糸のいずれもが高度に
融着した糸条を表面が***した編組織に編立てら
れることによつて、従来得られなかつた強いシヤ
リ味効果を示す。すなわち、この編地の***構造
から生ずる凹凸感と特殊な融着杢糸による麻様シ
ヤリ感が相俟つて、より好ましい麻に似た感触と
編地表面のメリハリが強く、きめ細かな全面杢調
の両効果を併わせて得ることができる。ここで隆
起柄とは一般にブリスター組織と呼ばれ、編地表
面の任意部分がふくれた構造を有する柄組織や、
横縞状とか縦縞状に***したリツプル組織、コー
ドレーン組織などがその代表的なものである。 The heathered knitted fabric of the present invention is created by knitting yarns in which two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeability are highly fused into a knitted structure with a raised surface. Shows a strong sushi taste effect that cannot be absorbed. In other words, the unevenness caused by the raised structure of this knitted fabric and the linen-like smooth feel created by the special fused heathered yarn combine to create a more preferable linen-like feel, a sharply defined knitted fabric surface, and a fine all-over heathered texture. Both effects can be obtained at the same time. Here, the raised pattern is generally called a blister structure, and is a pattern structure in which an arbitrary part of the surface of the knitted fabric is swollen.
Typical examples include ripple structures with raised horizontal or vertical stripes and cord lane structures.
また、それら以外に特殊な組織により幾何学模
様に***した組織なども本考案には含まれる。 In addition to these, the present invention also includes structures that are raised in geometric patterns due to special structures.
本考案の杢調柄編地に用いられる融着杢糸は例
えば次のようにして得ることができる。すなわち
第４図に示す仮撚加工機において、染色性の異な
る２種のフイラメント糸１１，１２例えばカチオ
ン染料に可染性のポリエステルマルチフイラメン
ト糸とカチオン染料に不染性のポリエステルマル
チフイラメント糸がガイド１３により引揃えら
れ、この引揃え糸Ｙは、フイードローラ１４によ
りフイードローラ１４・スピンドル１６間の仮撚
加撚域へオーバーフイード状態で導かれる。仮撚
加撚域では高速度で回転するスピンドル１６によ
つて加撚された引揃え糸Ｙは、接触式の第１ヒー
タ１５により加撚状態のまま熱固定されるが、こ
の時第１ヒータ１５の温度を引揃え糸Ｙの軟化点
から融点近傍の温度に設定しておくと、引揃え糸
Ｙを構成するフイラメントが融化され、フイラメ
ント同志が加撚状態のまま融接着される。融接着
された糸条は、仮撚加撚域で加撚された形態のま
まスピンドル１６を通過する。スピンドル１６を
通過した糸条は、過剰に解撚された部分と解撚さ
れない部分を混在させながら第１デリバリーロー
ラ１７により引取られ第１デリバリーローラ１
７・第２デリバリーローラ１９間の再熱処理域に
導かれる。再熱処理域では、オーバーフイード状
態で非接触式の第２ヒータ１８により熱処理し、
糸条に発生したトルクを低減させる。次いで第２
デリバリーローラ１９を出た糸条は、捲取ローラ
２０によつて捲取チーズ２１に捲取られる。な
お、この加工において用いる各ヒーターは接触式
でも非接触式でもよいが、第１ヒーターは熱効率
よく融接着させるために接触式ヒーターが望まし
く、第２ヒーターは仮撚加工域で形成された糸形
態を維持するために非接触ヒーターが望ましい。 The fused heathered yarn used in the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained, for example, as follows. That is, in the false twisting machine shown in FIG. 4, two types of filament yarns 11 and 12 having different dyeability, for example, a polyester multifilament yarn dyeable with cationic dyes and a polyester multifilament yarn undyable with cationic dyes, are guided. 13, and the aligned yarn Y is guided by a feed roller 14 to a false twisting area between the feed roller 14 and the spindle 16 in an overfeed state. In the false twisting/twisting region, the drawn yarn Y twisted by the spindle 16 rotating at high speed is heat-fixed in the twisted state by the contact type first heater 15. When the temperature of step 15 is set at a temperature from the softening point to the vicinity of the melting point of the drawn thread Y, the filaments constituting the drawn thread Y are melted and the filaments are fused together in a twisted state. The fused yarn passes through the spindle 16 in a twisted state in the false twisting area. The yarn that has passed through the spindle 16 is taken up by the first delivery roller 17 while having excessively untwisted portions and untwisted portions mixed together.
7 and guided to the reheat treatment area between the second delivery rollers 19. In the reheat treatment area, heat treatment is performed using a non-contact second heater 18 in an overfeed state,
Reduces the torque generated in the yarn. Then the second
The yarn leaving the delivery roller 19 is wound up onto a winding cheese 21 by a winding roller 20. Each heater used in this processing may be a contact type or a non-contact type, but the first heater is preferably a contact type heater in order to thermally efficiently fuse and bond, and the second heater is used to heat the yarn formed in the false twisting area. A non-contact heater is desirable to maintain
本考案に用いる融着杢糸に緊密撚糸部と嵩高撚
糸部が交互に形成される理由は、以下のように考
えられる。すなわち、スピンドル１６の下流では
糸条に加撚方向とは逆の撚が加えられスピンドル
１６の上流で加撚された撚を解こうとする。この
時加撚方向に融接着された糸条は長手方向にわず
かの融接着斑を有しているものと考えられ、融接
着の弱い箇所の撚が優先的に解かれ、かつ過解撚
されるため、長手方向に加撚方向の撚と解撚方向
の撚を交互に有し、実質的に無撚部を有しない糸
条が得られる。解撚方向の撚を有する部分は一旦
加撚状態で熱固定された糸条が逆の撚によつて過
度に解撚されたものであるため解撚されない部分
より嵩高となる。この撚の解撚されない部分が緊
密撚糸部となり、過度に解撚された部分が嵩高撚
糸部となる。 The reason why tightly twisted yarn parts and bulky twisted yarn parts are alternately formed in the fused heathered yarn used in the present invention is thought to be as follows. That is, a twist is applied to the yarn in the direction opposite to the twisting direction downstream of the spindle 16, and an attempt is made to untwist the yarn twisted upstream of the spindle 16. At this time, the yarn fused in the twisting direction is thought to have slight fused spots in the longitudinal direction, and the twists in the weakly fused areas are preferentially untwisted and over-twisted. Therefore, a yarn having twists in the twisting direction and twists in the untwisting direction alternately in the longitudinal direction and having substantially no untwisted portions can be obtained. The portion having a twist in the untwisting direction is the yarn that has been heat-set in the twisted state and has been excessively untwisted by twisting in the opposite direction, so it is bulkier than the untwisted portion. The untwisted portion becomes a tightly twisted yarn portion, and the excessively untwisted portion becomes a bulky yarn portion.
緊密撚糸部と嵩高撚糸部はおおむね１mm〜数十
mmの種々の長さで分布するが、この分布はフイー
ドローラ１４と第１デリバリーローラ１７間の仮
撚加工域のオーバーフイード率が大きくなる程緊
密撚糸部と嵩高撚糸部が共に長くなる傾向にあ
り、ヒータ温度を高くしたり、加工速度を遅くし
たりして熱効果を大きくすると緊密撚糸部の長さ
の割合が大きくなる傾向にある。 Tightly twisted yarn part and bulky twisted yarn part are approximately 1mm to several dozen
mm, and this distribution tends to be such that as the overfeed rate in the false twisting area between the feed roller 14 and the first delivery roller 17 increases, both the tightly twisted yarn section and the bulky twisted yarn section become longer. If the thermal effect is increased by increasing the heater temperature or slowing down the processing speed, the ratio of the length of the tightly twisted yarn portion tends to increase.
第１図は本考案の杢調柄編地に用いられる融着
杢糸の一例を示す概略側面図であり、１種のマル
チフイラメント糸１と、これとは染色性の異なる
他のマルチフイラメント糸２から構成され、糸条
の長手方向にＺ撚で集束した緊密撚糸部３とＳ撚
で集束した嵩高撚糸部４が交互に存在している。
この緊密撚糸部３と嵩高撚糸部４の境界にある撚
方向変換部５は極めて短いもので実質的に無撚部
は存在しない。 FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of fused heathered yarn used in the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention, including one type of multifilament yarn 1 and other multifilament yarns with different dyeability. In the longitudinal direction of the yarn, tightly twisted yarn portions 3 that are bundled with a Z twist and bulky twisted yarn portions 4 that are bundled with an S twist exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
The twist direction changing portion 5 located at the boundary between the tightly twisted yarn portion 3 and the bulky yarn portion 4 is extremely short, and there is substantially no untwisted portion.
（作用）
本考案の杢調柄編地とは、上記のように編地表
面を構成する糸条がその長手方向に緊密撚糸部と
緊密撚糸部とは反対方向の撚を有する嵩高撚糸部
が交互に存在しているので編地上において、染色
性の異なる２種の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフイラ
メント糸の交互撚構造によつて得られる色差杢が
撚方向の変化によつて光の反射に対して方向性を
発揮し、また、上記緊密撚糸部と嵩高撚糸部の間
に見掛太さの差があり、その太細によつて陰影が
異なり、自然な変化のある意匠効果に富んだ杢効
果が得られるものである。しかも、無撚部が実質
的に存在しないので、編地上に曳け状の外観を呈
する等の欠点がないものである。(Function) The heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the yarns constituting the surface of the knitted fabric have, in the longitudinal direction, a tightly twisted portion and a bulky twisted portion having a twist in the opposite direction to the tightly twisted yarn portion. Because they exist alternately, on the knitted fabric, the color difference heat obtained by the alternating twist structure of two types of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarns with different dyeability can be improved against light reflection by changing the twist direction. In addition, there is a difference in apparent thickness between the tightly twisted yarn part and the bulky twisted yarn part, and the shading differs depending on the thickness, creating a heathered effect that is rich in design effects with natural variations. is obtained. Furthermore, since there is substantially no non-twisted portion, there are no defects such as a twisted appearance on the knitted fabric.
さらに緊密撚糸部において２種のマルチフイラ
メントはいずれも融着しており、嵩高撚糸部では
少なくとも１種のマルチフイラメントが融着して
いるので強いシヤリ感が得られ、そのシヤリ感に
加え、編地表面の***構造による凹凸感の相乗作
用により麻に似た優れた感触と意匠効果がえられ
る。 Furthermore, in the tightly twisted yarn section, the two types of multifilaments are both fused together, and in the bulky yarn section, at least one type of multifilament is fused, resulting in a strong silky feel. The synergistic effect of the uneven texture created by the raised structure of the ground surface provides an excellent feel and design effect similar to linen.
（実施例） 以下、本考案を実施例に基づいて説明する。(Example) The present invention will be explained below based on examples.
実施例 １
融点が253.7℃で100デニール／48フイラメント
のポリエチレンテレフタレート糸と融点が252.1
℃で50デニール／12フイラメントのスルホイソフ
タル酸成分を1.5モル％共重合したエチレンテレ
フタレート成分を主たる構成単位とするカチオン
染料可染性ポリエステル糸を引揃えて、第４図に
示す仮撚加工機で次の条件により融着仮撚加工を
行つた。Example 1 100 denier/48 filament polyethylene terephthalate yarn with a melting point of 253.7°C and a melting point of 252.1
50 denier/12 filaments of cationic dye-dyeable polyester yarn whose main constituent unit is ethylene terephthalate component copolymerized with 1.5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid component at ℃ was aligned and twisted using the false twisting machine shown in Figure 4. Fusion false twisting was performed under the following conditions.
スピンドル回転数 220000回／分
仮撚数 2200回／ｍ
糸速 100ｍ／分
仮撚加撚方向 Ｚ
仮撚加工域オーバーフイード率 15.6％
第１ヒータ１５温度（接触式ヒータ） 243℃
第２ヒータ１８温度（非接触式ヒータ） 250℃
再熱処理域オーバーフイード率 7.5％
得られた糸条を第２図に示すリツプル組織で編
立し、つづいてカチオン染料を用いて常法により
染色し、仕上加工を行つた。その結果、編地全面
が微細な杢調を呈し、その中に横縞柄が浮き出た
外観を有し、しかも麻様の優れたシヤリ感のある
杢調編地が得られた。 Spindle rotation speed 220000 times/min Number of false twists 2200 times/m Yarn speed 100 m/min False twisting direction Z False twisting area overfeed rate 15.6% 1st heater 15 temperature (contact type heater) 243℃ 2nd heater 18 Temperature (non-contact heater): 250℃ Reheating area overfeed rate: 7.5% The obtained yarn is knitted with the ripple structure shown in Figure 2, then dyed using a cationic dye by a conventional method, and finished. I went to As a result, a heathered knitted fabric was obtained in which the entire surface of the knitted fabric had a fine heathered texture, a horizontal striped pattern stood out in the appearance, and an excellent linen-like smooth feel.
（考案の効果）
本考案の杢調柄編地は上記のような構成を有す
るので杢調とシヤリ感の両方を狙つた従来の融着
糸では得られなかつた強いシヤリ感があり、しか
も自然な変化に富み、微細でメリハリの強い清涼
感に優れた効果を発揮する。(Effects of the invention) Since the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, it has a strong silky feel that could not be obtained with conventional fused yarns that aim to achieve both a heathered texture and a silky feel. It has a rich variety of changes, and has an excellent effect on a subtle and sharp cooling sensation.
第１図は本考案の杢調柄編地に用いられる融着
杢糸の一例を示す概略図、第２図は本考案の杢調
柄編地例の編成方法を示す編成組織図、第３図は
本考案の杢調柄編地の一例を示す概略模式図、第
４図は本考案の杢調柄編地に用いる融着杢糸の製
造方法の一例を示す概略図である。
１，２……染色性の異なる２種のマルチフイラ
メント糸、３……緊密撚糸部、４……嵩高撚糸
部、５……撚方向変換部、Ｆ１〜Ｆ１２……編立
給糸口番号、１１，１２……仮撚加工供給糸、１
３……ガイド、１４……フイードロール、１５…
…第１ヒータ、１６……スピンドル、１７……第
１デリバリーロール、１８……第２ヒータ、１９
……第２デリバリーロール、２０……捲取ロー
ル、２１……捲取チーズ、Ｙ……引揃え糸。
Figure 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of fused heathered yarn used in the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention, Figure 2 is a knitting organization diagram showing the knitting method for the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention, and Figure 3 The figure is a schematic diagram showing an example of the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the method for manufacturing the fused heathered yarn used in the heathered pattern knitted fabric of the present invention. 1, 2... Two types of multifilament yarns with different dyeability, 3... Tightly twisted yarn section, 4... Bulky twisted yarn section, 5... Twisting direction changing section, F1 to F12... Knitting yarn feeder number, 11 , 12...False-twisted supply yarn, 1
3...Guide, 14...Feed roll, 15...
...First heater, 16...Spindle, 17...First delivery roll, 18...Second heater, 19
...Second delivery roll, 20... Winding roll, 21... Winding cheese, Y... Pulling thread.
Claims (1)
柄編地において、該融着杢糸は染色性の異なる２
種の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸が糸
条長手方向に緊密撚糸部と嵩高撚糸部を交互に有
し、かつ該緊密撚糸部において上記２種のマルチ
フイラメント糸のフイラメントがともに融着して
おり、しかも実質的に無撚部を有しないことを特
徴とする杢調柄編地。 In a raised pattern knitted fabric whose surface texture is formed by fused heathered yarns, the fused heathered yarns have two different dyeability.
The type of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn has tightly twisted yarn parts and bulky twisted yarn parts alternately in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the filaments of the two types of multifilament yarns are fused together in the tightly twisted yarn part. , a heathered pattern knitted fabric characterized by having substantially no non-twisted portions.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1986201478U JPH0519346Y2 (en) | 1986-12-27 | 1986-12-27 |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1986201478U JPH0519346Y2 (en) | 1986-12-27 | 1986-12-27 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS63106786U JPS63106786U (en) | 1988-07-09 |
| JPH0519346Y2 true JPH0519346Y2 (en) | 1993-05-21 |
Family
ID=31164969
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP1986201478U Expired - Lifetime JPH0519346Y2 (en) | 1986-12-27 | 1986-12-27 |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH0519346Y2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2593984B2 (en) * | 1991-10-02 | 1997-03-26 | 鐘紡株式会社 | Marbled socks and their manufacturing method |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS55152835A (en) * | 1979-05-16 | 1980-11-28 | Oda Gosen Kogyo Kk | Sprinkle like knitted fabric |
| JPS6112957A (en) * | 1984-06-26 | 1986-01-21 | ユニチカ株式会社 | Production of pile knitted fabric |
-
1986
- 1986-12-27 JP JP1986201478U patent/JPH0519346Y2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS55152835A (en) * | 1979-05-16 | 1980-11-28 | Oda Gosen Kogyo Kk | Sprinkle like knitted fabric |
| JPS6112957A (en) * | 1984-06-26 | 1986-01-21 | ユニチカ株式会社 | Production of pile knitted fabric |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS63106786U (en) | 1988-07-09 |
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