JP5144040B2 - Hair treatment composition - Google Patents
Hair treatment composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5144040B2 JP5144040B2 JP2006203626A JP2006203626A JP5144040B2 JP 5144040 B2 JP5144040 B2 JP 5144040B2 JP 2006203626 A JP2006203626 A JP 2006203626A JP 2006203626 A JP2006203626 A JP 2006203626A JP 5144040 B2 JP5144040 B2 JP 5144040B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- acid
- treatment
- examples
- minutes
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title claims description 53
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 44
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dihydrogen disulfide Chemical compound SS BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- DLLMHEDYJQACRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(carboxymethyldisulfanyl)acetic acid Chemical group OC(=O)CSSCC(O)=O DLLMHEDYJQACRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 13
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- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N L-glutamic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 2
- RZOXALOSBVDYRY-UHFFFAOYSA-N azane;2-(carboxymethyldisulfanyl)acetic acid Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]C(=O)CSSCC([O-])=O RZOXALOSBVDYRY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物により過度に還元された毛髪に塗布するための毛髪処理用組成物に関する。特に、縮毛矯正処理工程において、縮毛矯正用の高温整髪用アイロンを用いる前の毛髪に使用する毛髪処理用組成物に関する。 The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition for applying to hair that has been excessively reduced by a first hair straightening composition containing a reducing agent. In particular, the present invention relates to a hair treatment composition used for hair before using a high-temperature hair-styling iron for straightening hair in a curly hair straightening process.
従来の縮毛矯正処理に用いられる第1剤は有効成分としてチオグリコール酸類やシステイン類などの還元剤と、それを促進させる助剤としてアンモニアやアミン類などのアルカリ剤を配合している。そして、一般的な縮毛矯正処理の方法としては、前記のような還元剤とアルカリ剤を配合した第1剤を毛髪に塗付して毛髪を還元させて、所望の軟化状態(還元により毛髪がやわらかくなった状態)の毛髪にした後、水洗し、コームなどでストレート形状を形成する。次に有効成分として過酸化水素や臭素酸塩などの酸化剤を配合した縮毛矯正処理に用いられる第2剤を塗付して酸化させることで、そのスタイルの状態を保っている。また、表面温度が60℃〜220℃の高温整髪用アイロンを用いる場合は、まず、前記第1剤を毛髪に塗布して毛髪を還元させ、充分に水洗した後、毛髪の水分を除き、適当な温度に設定した高温整髪用アイロンを用いて数秒間処理する。次に、有効成分として過酸化水素や臭素酸塩などの酸化剤を配合した縮毛矯正処理に用いられる第2剤を塗付して酸化させることで、そのスタイルの状態を保っている。このように、縮毛矯正用の第1剤および第2剤は、毛髪内のジスルフィド結合を切断・再結合させる化学反応を利用して毛髪をストレート形状にする効果を得るものであるが、最適な結果を得るためには熟練した美容技術者が最適な軟化状態を見極めて、第1剤を洗い流す必要があった。この見極めを誤り、毛髪が軟化しすぎた場合(オーバータイムともいう)は、酸化処理工程において著しく毛髪に損傷を引き起こし、毛髪の滑らかさは損なわれ、毛髪は縮れた状態になる。また、オーバータイムした毛髪に前記の高温整髪用アイロンを用いた熱処理を施した場合、前記の損傷度合いはさらに大きくなる。 The first agent used in conventional hair straightening treatments contains a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or cysteine as an active ingredient, and an alkali agent such as ammonia or amines as an auxiliary to promote it. As a general method for straightening hair, a first agent containing a reducing agent and an alkaline agent as described above is applied to the hair to reduce the hair, and a desired softened state (hair by reduction). After the hair is softened), it is washed with water and a straight shape is formed with a comb or the like. Next, the state of the style is maintained by applying and oxidizing a second agent used for curly hair straightening treatment containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or bromate as an active ingredient. When using a hairstyling iron with a surface temperature of 60 ° C. to 220 ° C., first apply the first agent to the hair to reduce the hair, wash it thoroughly with water, and then remove the moisture from the hair. Treat for several seconds using a hot hairstyling iron set to a suitable temperature. Next, the state of the style is maintained by applying and oxidizing the 2nd agent used for the hair straightening process which mix | blended oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide and a bromate, as an active ingredient. As described above, the first and second agents for straightening hair are effective in making hair straight by utilizing a chemical reaction that cleaves and recombines disulfide bonds in hair. In order to obtain a satisfactory result, it was necessary for a skilled beauty technician to find the optimum softened state and to wash away the first agent. If this determination is mistaken and the hair is too soft (also referred to as overtime), the hair is significantly damaged in the oxidation process, and the smoothness of the hair is lost and the hair becomes curly. Further, when the overtimed hair is subjected to heat treatment using the high-temperature hair-styling iron, the degree of damage is further increased.
また、第1剤の軟化速度は毛髪の髪質や損傷度合いによって異なり、特に損傷が大きくなるほど軟化速度が速くなる。一般的に毛髪の毛先は日常生活において損傷を受けており、また染毛剤や脱色剤などにより不均一に損傷を受けている場合も多い。このように部位によって損傷度合いが異なる毛髪は、毛髪全体を均一に最適な軟化状態にするには美容師の高度な技術と経験を必要としていた。例えば、損傷部分には事前に第1剤の効果を減力させるクリームを塗布することや、損傷部分が軟化された時点で一度洗い流してから、再度未軟化部分だけに第1剤を塗布するため、非常に非効率であった。また、ジスルフィド結合の還元反応の速度を抑制するために、縮毛矯正処理用の第1剤に物質として二硫化物を配合することは一般的な技術である。つまり、毛髪内において緩やかに還元反応が進行することで最適な軟化状態の見極めが行いやすくなったが、この配合量を多くすると軟化速度が遅くなるという弊害が発生するため、それほど多くの量を配合することはできなかった。しかしながら、このような製剤を用いたとしても、損傷毛の場合は、適切な処理時間を見誤ると過度に軟化させてしまうことがあり、縮毛矯正処理における技術的な課題となっていた。 The softening speed of the first agent varies depending on the hair quality and the degree of damage of the hair, and the softening speed increases as the damage increases. Generally, the hair ends are damaged in daily life, and are often damaged unevenly by hair dyes and decoloring agents. As described above, the hair whose degree of damage varies depending on the site requires advanced techniques and experience of a hairdresser to uniformly and optimally soften the entire hair. For example, to apply a cream to reduce the effect of the first agent in advance on the damaged portion, or to wash away once the damaged portion is softened and then apply the first agent only to the unsoftened portion again It was very inefficient. In order to suppress the rate of reduction reaction of disulfide bonds, it is a common technique to mix disulfide as a substance with the first agent for straightening hair. In other words, the reduction reaction progresses slowly in the hair, making it easier to determine the optimal softening state.However, if this amount is increased, the effect of slowing the softening will occur, so a larger amount should be used. It could not be blended. However, even if such a preparation is used, in the case of damaged hair, if the appropriate treatment time is mistaken, it may be excessively softened, which has been a technical problem in hair straightening treatment.
本発明は、還元剤により過度に還元された毛髪を、最適な軟化状態の毛髪に戻すための毛髪処理用組成物およびその処理方法を提供することを目的とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide a hair treatment composition and a treatment method for returning hair excessively reduced by a reducing agent to hair in an optimal softened state.
本発明者らは、鋭意研究を繰り返した結果、二硫化物を特定量含有する毛髪処理用組成物を、還元剤を含む縮毛矯正処理に用いる第1剤を毛髪に塗布する還元工程後直ぐに使用することによって、最適な軟化状態の毛髪にすることを見出し、本発明を完成した。 As a result of repeating diligent research, the present inventors have found that a hair treatment composition containing a specific amount of disulfide is applied immediately after the reduction step in which the first agent used for the hair straightening treatment containing a reducing agent is applied to the hair. As a result, the present inventors have found that the hair is in an optimal softened state by use, and completed the present invention.
すなわち、本発明は、少なくとも1種以上の還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物を塗布した後の毛髪に使用する毛髪処理用組成物であって、二硫化物を10重量%〜25重量%含有し、かつpHが3〜6.4である毛髪処理用組成物に関する。 That is, the present invention is a hair treatment composition used for hair after applying the first agent composition for straightening curly hair containing at least one reducing agent, wherein 10 % by weight of disulfide is used. contains ~ 25 wt%, and about pH is 3 to 6.4 der Ru hair treatment composition.
前記二硫化物がジチオジグリコール酸またはその塩であることが好ましい。 The disulfide is preferably dithiodiglycolic acid or a salt thereof.
また、本発明の組成物を塗布し、最適な軟化状態に戻した後、表面温度が60℃〜220℃の高温整髪用アイロンによる縮毛矯正処理を施すことができる。 Moreover, after apply | coating the composition of this invention and returning to an optimal softened state, the hair temperature correction process by the high-temperature hair-styling iron whose surface temperature is 60 degreeC-220 degreeC can be performed.
本発明の組成物によると、毛髪を軟化しすぎたいわゆるオーバータイムの状態であっても、最適な軟化状態の毛髪にすることができる。 According to the composition of the present invention, even in a so-called overtime state in which the hair is excessively softened, it is possible to obtain an optimally softened hair.
本発明の毛髪処理用組成物は、少なくとも1種以上の還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物を塗布した後の毛髪に使用するものである。 The composition for hair treatment of the present invention is used for hair after applying the first agent composition for straightening curly hair containing at least one reducing agent.
前記還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物としては、とくに限定されるものではなく、少なくともチオグリコール酸およびその塩、システインなどの還元剤および助剤としてのアンモニア、モノエタノールアミンやトリエタノールアミンなどのアルカノールアミン、水酸化ナトリウムなどのアルカリ剤を含んでいるものであれば、特に限定されるものではない。 The first hair straightening composition containing the reducing agent is not particularly limited, and includes at least ammonia as a reducing agent and auxiliary agent such as thioglycolic acid and its salts, cysteine, monoethanolamine, It is not particularly limited as long as it contains an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine and an alkali agent such as sodium hydroxide.
本発明の毛髪処理用組成物は、特定量の二硫化物を含むものである。特定量の二硫化物を含有することによって、切断された毛髪中のシスチンのジスルフィド結合を再結合させることが可能である。詳細には、還元剤であるチオ化合物とシスチンのジスルフィド結合の還元反応に伴い生成するジチオ化合物との化学平衡を、特定量の二硫化物を添加することでチオ化合物を生成させる反応側に傾けることによって、同時に起こるジスルフィドの再結合反応により、再度還元が可能な毛髪の状態または最適な軟化状態とすることができるものである。 The hair treatment composition of the present invention contains a specific amount of disulfide. By containing a certain amount of disulfide, it is possible to recombine the disulfide bonds of cystine in the cut hair. Specifically, the chemical equilibrium between the reducing agent thio compound and the dithio compound produced by the reduction reaction of the cystine disulfide bond is tilted toward the reaction side where a specific amount of disulfide is added to produce the thio compound. By this, the recombination reaction of disulfides that occurs at the same time can bring the hair into a state that can be reduced again or the optimum softened state.
前記二硫化物としては、ジチオジグリコール酸、ジチオジグリコール酸ジアンモニウム、ジチオジ乳酸ジアンモニウム、ジアセチルシスチンなどが挙げられる。なかでも、操作中の臭いなどの点で、ジチオジグリコール酸ジアンモニウムが好ましい。 Examples of the disulfide include dithiodiglycolic acid, diammonium dithiodiglycolate, diammonium dithiodilactic acid, and diacetylcystine. Of these, diammonium dithiodiglycolate is preferred from the standpoint of odor during operation.
前記二硫化物の配合量は、毛髪処理用組成物全体の5重量%〜30重量%であり、より好ましくは、10重量%〜25重量%である。二硫化物の配合量が、5重量%未満の場合、過度に還元された状態から最適な軟化状態の毛髪に戻す効果が低くなり、30重量%を超える場合は、毛髪を最適な軟化の状態に戻す反応を急激に進めすぎることから、毛髪が収斂し、若干損傷する可能性がある。 The blending amount of the disulfide is 5% by weight to 30% by weight, and more preferably 10% by weight to 25% by weight of the entire hair treatment composition. When the blending amount of disulfide is less than 5% by weight, the effect of returning from an excessively reduced state to the optimally softened hair is reduced, and when it exceeds 30% by weight, the hair is optimally softened. Since the reaction to return to too rapidly proceeds, the hair may converge and may be slightly damaged.
本発明においては、前記二硫化物を毛髪処理用組成物中に5重量%〜30重量%の範囲で安定に配合でき、毛髪に塗布しやすい媒体に配合することができる。このような媒体は、化粧品や医薬部外品等に用いられる成分で目的に応じて構成される。例えば、界面活性剤、油脂、ロウ類、炭化水素、脂肪酸、高級アルコール、高級アルコール以外のアルコール、エステル類、シリコーン油、多価アルコール、糖類、高分子、植物抽出物、加水分解物、金属イオン封鎖剤、pH調整剤などがあげられる。 In this invention, the said disulfide can be mix | blended stably in the range for 5 to 30 weight% in the composition for hair treatment, and can be mix | blended with the medium which is easy to apply | coat to hair. Such a medium is a component used for cosmetics, quasi-drugs and the like, and is configured according to the purpose. For example, surfactants, fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, higher alcohols, alcohols other than higher alcohols, esters, silicone oils, polyhydric alcohols, sugars, polymers, plant extracts, hydrolysates, metal ions Examples thereof include a sequestering agent and a pH adjusting agent.
界面活性剤としては、アニオン性界面活性剤、カチオン性界面活性剤、非イオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤などがあげられる。 Examples of the surfactant include an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant.
アニオン性界面活性剤としては、ヤシ油脂肪酸カリウム、ラウリン酸トリエタノールアミン、ステアリン酸マグネシウム、ミリスチン酸カルシウム、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテル酢酸、ポリオキシエチレンラウリルエーテル酢酸ナトリウム、ステアロイル乳酸ナトリウム、ステアロイル乳酸カルシウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸サルコシン、ラウロイルサルコシントリエタノールアミン、ヤシ油脂肪酸アシルグルタミン酸、ヤシ油脂肪酸アシルグルタミン酸ナトリウム、ラウロイルグルタミン酸ナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルアラニンナトリウム、ラウロイルメチルアラニントリエタノールアミン、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルタウリンカリウム、ミリストイルメチルタウリンナトリウム、アルカンスルホン酸ナトリウム、テトラデセンスルホン酸ナトリウム、スルホコハク酸ジオクチルナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン、セチル硫酸ナトリウム、オレイル硫酸ナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリルリン酸ナトリウム、セチルリン酸ジエタノールアミン、ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテルリン酸トリエタノールアミンなどがあげられる。 Anionic surfactants include coconut oil fatty acid potassium, triethanolamine laurate, magnesium stearate, calcium myristate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether acetic acid, sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether acetate, sodium stearoyl lactate, calcium stearoyl lactate, Palm oil fatty acid sarcosine, lauroyl sarcosine triethanolamine, coconut oil fatty acid acyl glutamic acid, coconut oil fatty acid sodium acyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, coconut oil fatty acid sodium methylalanine, lauroyl methylalanine triethanolamine, coconut oil fatty acid methyl taurine potassium, myristoyl Sodium methyl taurate, sodium alkane sulfonate, sodium tetradecene sulfonate Lithium, Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, Sodium cetyl sulfate, Sodium oleyl sulfate, Sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate, Sodium lauryl phosphate, Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Sodium polyoxyethylene oleyl ether phosphate, Examples thereof include polyoxyethylene oleyl ether phosphate triethanolamine.
カチオン性界面活性剤としては、ジオクチルアミン、ジメチルステアリルアミン、ステアリン酸ジエチルアミノエチルアミド、塩化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化アルキル(20〜22)トリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ジステアリルジメチルアンモニウム、塩化トリ(ポリオキシエチレン)ステアリルアンモニウム(5EO)、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化ミリスチルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム、塩化ラウリルピリジニウム、塩化セチルピリジニウム、塩化メチルベンゼトニウムなどがあげられる。 Examples of cationic surfactants include dioctylamine, dimethylstearylamine, diethylaminoethylamide stearate, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, alkyl (20-22) trimethylammonium chloride, distearyl chloride. Examples include dimethylammonium chloride, tri (polyoxyethylene) stearylammonium chloride (5EO), benzalkonium chloride, myristyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, and methylbenzethonium chloride.
両性界面活性剤としては、2−アルキル−N−カルボキシメチル−N−ヒドロキシエチルイミダゾリニウムベタイン、塩酸アルキルジアミノエチルグリシン、ヤシ油脂肪酸アシル−N−カルボキシエチル−N−ヒドロキシエチルエチレンジアミン二ナトリウム、ラウリルアミノプロピオン酸ナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸アシル−N−カルボキシエチル−N−ヒドロキシエチレンジアミンナトリウム、ラウリルジメチルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、ステアリルアミノ酢酸ベタイン、ラウリン酸アミドプロピル酢酸ベタイン、ラウリルヒドロキシスルホベタインなどがあげられる。 Amphoteric surfactants include 2-alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, alkyldiaminoethylglycine hydrochloride, coconut oil fatty acid acyl-N-carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethylethylenediamine disodium, lauryl Examples include sodium aminopropionate, coconut oil fatty acid acyl-N-carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethylenediamine sodium, lauryldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, stearylaminoacetic acid betaine, lauric acid amidopropylacetic acid betaine, and lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine.
非イオン性界面活性剤としては、ポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオクチルドデシルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンベヘニルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオクチルフェニルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン(2)ステアリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン(20)ステアリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンデシルテトラデシルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレンラウリルエーテル、モノラウリン酸ポリエチレングリコール、ステアリン酸ジエチレングリコール、自己乳化型モノステアリン酸ポリエチレングリコール(2)、ジステアリン酸ジエチレングリコール、モノオレイン酸ポリオキシエチレン(20)ソルビタン、ポリオキシエチレン(20)ヤシ油脂肪酸ソルビタン、ポリオキシエチレン(20)オレイン酸ソルビタン、ポリオキシエチレンヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、モノラウリン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビット、オレイン酸ポリオキシエチレン(3)ソルビット、親油型モノステアリン酸グリセリン、ヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリル、モノラウリン酸ソルビタン、モノミリスチン酸ソルビタン、モノオレイン酸ポリ(2〜10)グリセリル、イソパルミチン酸ジグリセリル、ヤシ油脂肪酸ショ糖エステル、アルキルグルコシド、ヤシ油アルキルジメチルアミンオキシド、オレイルジメチルアミンオキシドなどがあげられる。 Nonionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene octyldodecyl ether, polyoxyethylene behenyl ether, polyoxyethylene octyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, Polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene decyl tetradecyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene lauryl ether, polyethylene glycol monolaurate, diethylene glycol stearate, self-emulsifying polyethylene glycol monostearate (2), Diethylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene (20) Palm oil fatty acid sorbitan, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan oleate, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbite monolaurate, polyoxyethylene oleate (3) sorbite, parent Oil type glyceryl monostearate, palm oil fatty acid glyceryl, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, poly (2-10) glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl isopalmitate, sucrose ester of coconut oil fatty acid, alkyl glucoside, coconut oil Examples thereof include alkyl dimethylamine oxide and oleyl dimethylamine oxide.
油脂としては、小麦胚芽油、コメヌカ油、シアバター、マカデミアナッツ油、メドウホーム油、卵黄油などがあげられる。 Examples of the fat include wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, shea butter, macadamia nut oil, meadow home oil, and egg yolk oil.
ロウ類としては、ホホバ油、ミツロウ、カルナウバロウなどがあげられる。 Examples of the waxes include jojoba oil, beeswax and carnauba wax.
炭化水素としては、軽質イソパラフィン、軽質流動イソパラフィン、スクワラン、セレシン、パラフィン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、流動パラフィン、流動イソパラフィン、ワセリンなどがあげられる。 Examples of the hydrocarbon include light isoparaffin, light liquid isoparaffin, squalane, ceresin, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, petrolatum and the like.
脂肪酸としては、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘニン酸、オレイン酸、イソステアリン酸、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、ウンデシレン酸などがあげられる。 Examples of the fatty acid include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and undecylenic acid.
高級アルコールとしては、セチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、ベヘニルアルコール、ミリスチルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、ラウリルアルコール、セトステアリルアルコールなどがあげられる。 Examples of the higher alcohol include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol and the like.
高級アルコール以外のアルコールとしては、エチルアルコール、プロピルアルコール、ブチルアルコールなどの低級アルコール、動植物性のステロール類などがあげられる。 Examples of alcohols other than higher alcohols include lower alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, and butyl alcohol, and animal and plant sterols.
エステル類としては、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、ステアリン酸ステアリル、ラウリン酸イソステアリル、オレイン酸オクチルドデシル、2−エチルヘキサン酸ヘキシル、コハク酸ジ2−エチルヘキシル、コハク酸ジエトキシエチル、イソステアリン酸フィトステリルなどがあげられる。 Esters include isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, isostearyl laurate, octyldodecyl oleate, hexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethoxyethyl succinate, phytosteryl isostearate Etc.
シリコーン油としては、デカメチルトリシロキサン、メチルポリシロキサン、高重合メチルポリシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ポリオキシエチレン・メチルポリシロキサン共重合体、アミノエチルアミノプロピルシロキサン・ジメチルシロキサン共重合体エマルション、アミノエチルアミノプロピルメチルシロキサン・ジメチルシロキサン共重合体、トリメチルシロキシケイ酸、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサンなどがあげられる。 Silicone oils include decamethyltrisiloxane, methylpolysiloxane, highly polymerized methylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer emulsion, Examples thereof include aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane.
多価アルコールとしては、エチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、グリセリン、ポリグリセリン、1,3−ブチレングリコールなどがあげられる。 Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, polyglycerin, and 1,3-butylene glycol.
糖類としては、ソルビトール、トレハロースなどがあげられる。 Examples of the saccharide include sorbitol and trehalose.
高分子としては、ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム、カルボキシビニルポリマー、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ポリビニルピロリドン、カルボキシメチルセルロース、プルラン、カチオン化セルロース、グアーガム、アクリル酸・メタクリルアルキル共重合体、テトラオレイン酸ポリオキシエチレンソルビトール、ポリビニルピロリドン、ポリアクリルアミド、マレイン酸共重合体、ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレン共重合体などがあげられる。 Polymers include sodium polyacrylate, carboxyvinyl polymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxymethylcellulose, pullulan, cationized cellulose, guar gum, acrylic acid / methacrylic alkyl copolymer, polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetraoleate, polyvinylpyrrolidone , Polyacrylamide, maleic acid copolymer, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene copolymer and the like.
植物抽出物としては、アボカドエキス、アルモンドエキス、甘草エキスなどがあげられる。加水分解物としては、加水分解ケラチン、加水分解コラーゲンなどがあげられる。 Examples of plant extracts include avocado extract, almond extract, licorice extract and the like. Examples of the hydrolyzate include hydrolyzed keratin and hydrolyzed collagen.
金属イオン封鎖剤としては、アラニン、エデト酸、エデト酸二ナトリウム、ジエチレントリアミン五酢酸五ナトリウムなどがあげられる。 Examples of the sequestering agent include alanine, edetic acid, disodium edetate, and pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid.
本発明の毛髪処理用組成物のpHは特に限定されるものではないが、pH3〜pH10とすることが好ましい。pHが3未満の場合は当該反応時間が長くなり、処理効率が悪くなる傾向があり、pHが10を超える場合は毛髪へのダメージが生じる傾向がある。pH調整剤としては、クエン酸、リン酸、乳酸、酢酸、リンゴ酸、プロピオン酸、カプリン酸、安息香酸、コハク酸、アジピン酸などの酸があげられ、アンモニア、水酸化ナトリウム、モノエタノールアミン、アルギニンなどの塩基があげられる。 The pH of the hair treatment composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably pH 3 to pH 10. When the pH is less than 3, the reaction time becomes long and the treatment efficiency tends to be poor, and when the pH exceeds 10, the hair tends to be damaged. Examples of the pH adjuster include acids such as citric acid, phosphoric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, malic acid, propionic acid, capric acid, benzoic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, ammonia, sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, Examples include bases such as arginine.
毛髪処理用組成物の剤型は毛髪への操作性を考慮すると、クリーム状、またはゲル状のものが好ましい。その粘度は極度に低いものや極度に高いものは操作性上好ましくない。好ましくは、500mPa・s〜80,000mPa・sであり、より好ましくは500mPa・s〜50,0000mPa・sであり、1,000mPa・s〜50,0000mPa・sが塗布する際に毛髪からたれ落ちることなく特に好ましい。ここで、本発明における粘度は、25℃におけるB型粘度計VISCOMETER VT−20(東機産業(株)製)により測定した値である。 The dosage form of the hair treatment composition is preferably in the form of cream or gel in consideration of operability to the hair. Those whose viscosity is extremely low or extremely high are not preferable in terms of operability. Preferably, it is 500 mPa · s to 80,000 mPa · s, more preferably 500 mPa · s to 50,000 mPa · s, and 1,000 mPa · s to 50,000 mPa · s dripping from the hair when applied. Especially preferred without. Here, the viscosity in the present invention is a value measured by a B-type viscometer VISCOMETER VT-20 (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.) at 25 ° C.
本発明の毛髪処理用組成物は、少なくとも1種以上の還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物を塗布した後の毛髪に使用する。当該使用するタイミングは、適用する毛髪の性質および気候等により依存するため時間範囲として特に限定されるものではないが、軟化しすぎた一般にオーバータイムと呼ばれる時間経過後の毛髪に適用することが、本発明の効果を有効に得られる点で好ましい。本発明の毛髪処理用組成物の塗布は、還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物を塗布した状態の毛髪にそのまま行なってもよいし、前記還元剤を配合した縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物を充分に水洗した後に行なってもよい。また、毛髪全体がオーバータイムとなった場合に限らず、部分的にオーバータイムの状態となった場合には、当該部分に本発明の毛髪処理用組成物を使用することができる。 The hair treatment composition of the present invention is used for hair after applying the first hair straightening composition containing at least one reducing agent. The timing of use is not particularly limited as the time range because it depends on the nature of the hair to be applied and the climate, etc., but it is applied to the hair after a lapse of time generally called overtime, which is too soft, This is preferable in that the effect of the present invention can be obtained effectively. The hair treatment composition of the present invention may be applied to hair in a state where the first hair straightening composition containing a reducing agent is applied, or for hair straightening containing the reducing agent. You may carry out after fully washing a 1st agent composition with water. Moreover, not only when the whole hair becomes overtime, but also when the hair is partially overtime, the hair treatment composition of the present invention can be used for the portion.
最適な軟化状態の毛髪に戻すために、本発明の毛髪処理用組成物は毛髪に塗布した後少なくとも2分以上放置することが好ましい。当該放置する工程は、常温で行うことができる。 In order to return the hair to an optimal softened state, the hair treatment composition of the present invention is preferably left for at least 2 minutes after being applied to the hair. The leaving step can be performed at room temperature.
また、本発明の毛髪処理用組成物により最適な軟化状態に戻した毛髪から、薬液を洗い落とし、充分に水分を除いた後、表面温度が60℃〜220℃の高温整髪用アイロンによる縮毛矯正処理をすることができる。毛髪処理用組成物を使用せずに高温整髪用アイロンによる処理を施した場合、熱処理をした個所に極度な縮れが生じる。 Further, after the chemical solution is washed away from the hair that has been returned to the optimum softened state by the hair treatment composition of the present invention, water is sufficiently removed, the hair is straightened by a high-temperature hair-styling iron having a surface temperature of 60 ° C to 220 ° C. Can be processed. When a treatment with a high-temperature hairstyling iron is performed without using a hair treatment composition, extreme shrinkage occurs at the heat-treated portion.
以下、本発明の毛髪処理用組成物およびその処理方法を実施例に基づいて詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例に限られるものではない。なお、実施例1と実施例4は本発明外の組成物であり、参考例として理解されたい。 Hereinafter, although the composition for hair treatment of this invention and its processing method are demonstrated in detail based on an Example, this invention is not limited to these Examples. In addition, Example 1 and Example 4 are compositions outside this invention, and should be understood as a reference example.
表1に示す縮毛矯正用第1剤組成物および表2に示す本発明の毛髪処理用組成物は以下の手順により調製した。まず、成分Aと成分Cをそれぞれ80℃まで加熱して成分を完全に溶解させた後に、加熱を停止し両成分を混合して、攪拌しながら冷却した。その後、混合液の液温を50℃まで下げ、予め常温で混合しておいた成分Bを添加し混合して調製した。表1および表2中、特に断らない限り単位は重量部である。また、表1および表2中、精製水にて100とは、精製水を加えてA成分とB成分を含む混合液全体を100重量%としたことを示す。 The first hair straightening composition shown in Table 1 and the hair treatment composition of the present invention shown in Table 2 were prepared by the following procedure. First, component A and component C were each heated to 80 ° C. to completely dissolve the components, and then the heating was stopped and both components were mixed and cooled with stirring. Then, the liquid temperature of the liquid mixture was lowered to 50 ° C., and component B previously mixed at room temperature was added and mixed to prepare. In Tables 1 and 2, the unit is parts by weight unless otherwise specified. Moreover, in Table 1 and Table 2, 100 with purified water means that purified water was added to make the entire mixed solution containing the A component and the B component 100% by weight.
調製した溶液のpHは、pH METER HM−30S(東亜電波工業(株)製)により測定した。また、粘度はB型粘度計VISCOMETER VT−20(東機産業(株)製)により測定した。測定温度はともに25℃とした。 The pH of the prepared solution was measured by pH METER HM-30S (manufactured by Toa Denpa Kogyo Co., Ltd.). The viscosity was measured with a B-type viscometer VISCOMETER VT-20 (manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.). Both measurement temperatures were 25 ° C.
(対象毛髪の選択)
評価のための健康毛としては、カラーやパーマなどの化学処理が行われていない日本人女性の毛髪を用い、同一人物から長さ20cm、1gの毛束を26本用意した。
(Selection of target hair)
As healthy hair for evaluation, Japanese female hair that was not subjected to chemical treatment such as color and perm was used, and 26 hair bundles having a length of 20 cm and 1 g were prepared from the same person.
ダメージ毛は上記の毛束に対して、アンモニアと過酸化水素の混合溶液による脱色処理を次の工程にて処理したものを用いる。 The damaged hair is obtained by treating the above-mentioned hair bundle with decolorization treatment using a mixed solution of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide in the next step.
(ダメージ毛作製処理工程)
アンモニア8%の溶液と、過酸化水素6%の溶液を用意した。これらの2つの溶液を1:1の比率(体積比)で混合し、その溶液に毛髪を浸漬し、35℃にて30分放置後、水洗し、乾燥させることで脱色した。この工程を2回繰り返してダメージ毛を作製した。
(Damaged hair production process)
A solution of 8% ammonia and a solution of 6% hydrogen peroxide were prepared. These two solutions were mixed at a ratio (volume ratio) of 1: 1, hair was immersed in the solution, allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes, washed with water, and dried to be decolorized. This process was repeated twice to produce damaged hair.
(毛髪処理用組成物による処理方法)
健康毛髪の毛束とダメージ処理した毛束に対して、以下のとおり処理を行った。
処理例1〜4:上記健康毛髪に対して、還元用剤1を塗布して、順に10分、20分、30分、40分放置した後、水にて洗い流した。
処理例5:上記健康毛髪に対して、還元用剤1を塗布して30分放置した後、比較例1のクリームを塗布し、よくなじませ10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例6〜8:上記健康毛髪に還元用剤1を塗布して30分放置した後、順に実施例2〜4のクリームをそれぞれ塗布し、よくなじませ10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例9:健康毛髪に還元用剤1を塗布して30分放置した後、実施例5の液体を塗布し、よくなじませ、10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例10:健康毛髪に還元用剤1を塗布して30分放置した後、水にて一旦還元用剤を洗い流した後、実施例3のクリームを塗布し、10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例11〜14:ダメージ毛髪に対して、還元用剤2を塗布し、順に時間を10分、20分、30分、40分放置した後、水にて洗い流した。
処理例15:ダメージ毛髪に還元用剤2を塗布して30分放置した後、比較例1のクリームを塗布し、よくなじませ10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例16〜18:ダメージ毛髪に還元用剤2を塗布して30分放置した後、実施例1〜3のクリームをそれぞれ塗布し、よくなじませ10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
処理例19〜22:ダメージ毛髪に対して、還元用剤3を塗布し、順に時間を10分、20分、30分、40分放置した後、水にて洗い流した。
処理例23:ダメージ毛髪に還元用剤3を塗布して30分放置した後、実施例3のクリームを塗布し、よくなじませ10分放置した後、水にてすべての薬剤を洗い流した。
(Treatment method using hair treatment composition)
Treatment was performed as follows on the hair bundle of healthy hair and the damaged hair bundle.
Treatment Examples 1 to 4: The reducing agent 1 was applied to the healthy hair and left for 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and 40 minutes in order, and then washed with water.
Treatment Example 5: After applying the reducing agent 1 to the above healthy hair and leaving it for 30 minutes, apply the cream of Comparative Example 1 and let it blend for 10 minutes. Washed away.
Treatment Examples 6 to 8: After applying the reducing agent 1 to the above healthy hair and leaving it for 30 minutes, apply each of the creams of Examples 2 to 4 in order and let it blend for 10 minutes. The drug was washed away.
Treatment Example 9: The reducing agent 1 was applied to healthy hair and allowed to stand for 30 minutes, and then the liquid of Example 5 was applied, thoroughly blended, allowed to stand for 10 minutes, and then all chemicals were washed away with water.
Treatment Example 10: After applying the reducing agent 1 to healthy hair and leaving it for 30 minutes, after rinsing the reducing agent with water, applying the cream of Example 3 and leaving it for 10 minutes, All drugs were washed away.
Treatment Examples 11 to 14: The reducing agent 2 was applied to damaged hair and left for 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and 40 minutes in order, and then washed with water.
Treatment Example 15: The reducing agent 2 was applied to damaged hair and allowed to stand for 30 minutes, then the cream of Comparative Example 1 was applied, allowed to blend well, allowed to stand for 10 minutes, and then all chemicals were washed away with water.
Treatment Examples 16 to 18: After applying the reducing agent 2 to damaged hair and leaving it for 30 minutes, applying each of the creams of Examples 1 to 3 and allowing them to blend well for 10 minutes, all the drugs in water Washed away.
Treatment Examples 19 to 22: The reducing agent 3 was applied to damaged hair and left for 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and 40 minutes in order, and then washed with water.
Treatment Example 23: The reducing agent 3 was applied to damaged hair and allowed to stand for 30 minutes, then the cream of Example 3 was applied, allowed to blend well, allowed to stand for 10 minutes, and then all chemicals were washed away with water.
(判定方法)
状態の観察:美容技術者による上記処理毛束の軟化度合いの判定を行う。次に処理毛束を乾燥させた後に高温整髪用アイロン(180℃)にてプレス処理を行い、酸化剤を塗布した後の毛髪状態を観察した。
(Judgment method)
Observation of state: The beauty technician determines the degree of softening of the treated hair bundle. Next, after drying the treated hair bundle, press treatment was performed with a high-temperature hair-styling iron (180 ° C.), and the hair state after applying the oxidizing agent was observed.
毛髪の軟化状態は、下記の3段階に分けて評価した。
A:良好な軟化状態
B:若干軟化が行き過ぎた状態
C:軟化が行き過ぎた状態
The softened state of the hair was evaluated in the following three stages.
A: Good softening state B: Slight softening too much C: Softening too much
また、仕上がりは下記の4段階で評価した。
a:滑らかで縮れがない
b:若干の縮れがある
c:全体的に縮れている
d:強度に縮れている
Moreover, the finish was evaluated in the following four stages.
a: Smooth and not crimped b: Slightly crimped c: Shrinkage as a whole d: Shrinked in strength
軟化状態および仕上がりの評価結果は表3〜表5に示す。 The evaluation results of the softened state and the finish are shown in Tables 3 to 5.
弾性率の決定:処理毛束の軟化度合いを数値化するために、弾性率を測定した。弾性率は毛髪を伸張させて得られる強伸度曲線の立ち上がり部分であるフック領域の接線の傾きから求められる。 Determination of elastic modulus: The elastic modulus was measured in order to quantify the degree of softening of the treated hair bundle. The elastic modulus is obtained from the slope of the tangent line of the hook region, which is the rising portion of the strong elongation curve obtained by stretching the hair.
(測定用サンプルの作製と毛髪の強伸度測定)
測定用サンプルの作製と毛髪の強伸度測定は以下の手順にて行なった。
1.作製した各々の毛束から1本ずつ毛髪を取り出し、2cmの間隔を空け、その両端を粘着テープにて挟み込み固定する。
2.それぞれの毛髪の断面積を毛髪外径測定器KL151A(アンリツ社製)にて測定する。
3.これらの測定用サンプル毛髪に対し、前記処理を施す。
4.処理後のサンプルをテンシロンUTM−II−20(オリエンテック社製)の所定の位置に固定し、伸張速度を2mm/minに設定し、空気中にて伸張させる。
(Preparation of measurement samples and measurement of hair elongation)
Preparation of a sample for measurement and measurement of strong elongation of hair were performed according to the following procedure.
1. One hair is taken out from each of the produced hair bundles, 2 cm apart, and both ends thereof are sandwiched and fixed with an adhesive tape.
2. The cross-sectional area of each hair is measured with a hair outer diameter measuring device KL151A (manufactured by Anritsu).
3. These treatments are performed on the sample hair for measurement.
4). The sample after the treatment is fixed at a predetermined position of Tensilon UTM-II-20 (Orientec Co., Ltd.), the extension speed is set to 2 mm / min, and the sample is extended in the air.
これら一連の測定作業を行い、これによって得られた強伸度曲線の立ち上がり接線の傾きから毛髪単位面積あたりの弾性率を算出した。 A series of these measurement operations were performed, and the elastic modulus per unit area of hair was calculated from the slope of the rising tangent of the strong elongation curve obtained thereby.
表3〜表5より、実施例1〜5の毛髪処理用組成物で処理した毛髪は、毛髪の損傷の有無にかかわらず、還元状態と弾性率が最適な軟化状態にまで回復し、仕上がりも優れていた。 From Tables 3 to 5, the hair treated with the hair treatment compositions of Examples 1 to 5 recovers to a softened state in which the reduced state and elastic modulus are optimal regardless of whether the hair is damaged or not, and the finish is also finished. It was excellent.
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JP2005343831A (en) * | 2004-06-03 | 2005-12-15 | Kao Corp | Hair shape-controlling agent |
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