JP2013516441A - 皮膚に潤いを与えるための、ヤブツバキアルバプレナ(CamelliaJaponicaAlbaPlena)の花の少なくとも1つの抽出物の使用 - Google Patents
皮膚に潤いを与えるための、ヤブツバキアルバプレナ(CamelliaJaponicaAlbaPlena)の花の少なくとも1つの抽出物の使用 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
− たとえばアクリロイルメチルプロパンスルホン酸(AMP)ならびに/またはアクリルアミドおよび/もしくはアクリル酸および/もしくはアクリル酸の塩またはエステルの架橋または非架橋の親水性または両親媒性のホモポリマーならびにコポリマー、たとえばアンモニウムアクリロイルジメチルタウリン/VPコポリマーおよびアンモニウムアクリロイルジメチルタウリン/ベヘネス−25メタクリレートコポリマーなど、特に、Clariantの名称Aristoflex(登録商標)AVCおよびHMBで販売されているものまたは会社Noveonによって、商品名PEMULEN(登録商標)TR−1もしくはTR−2、Carbopol(登録商標)1382、Carbopol(登録商標)Ultrez20で販売されているアクリレート/C10〜30アルキルアクリレートクロスポリマー、セルロース誘導体、植物性起源(アカシアゴムもしくはアラビアゴム、寒天、ガウア、イナゴマメ、アルギナート、カラギナン、ペクチン)または微生物起源(キサンタン、プルラン)のゴム、粘土(laponite)から選択される、水相をゲル化および/または増粘するための1つまたは複数の作用物質。前記ゲル化剤および/または増粘剤は、組成物の全重量に対して約0.01〜5重量%程度の含有量で組成物において存在することができる;
− 非イオン、陰イオン、陽イオン、または両性かどうかに関わらず、1つまたは複数の界面活性剤、好ましくは乳化剤、特に、脂肪酸およびグリセロールのアルコキシ化(特にポリエトキシ化)エステル、脂肪酸およびソルビタンのアルコキシ化エステル、たとえば、名称Arlacel(登録商標)165の下で会社Croda Inc.によって売られている混合物PEG−100ステアレート/ステアリン酸グリセリルなどの、脂肪酸のアルコキシ化(エトキシ化および/またはプロポキシル化)エステル、ならびに脂肪酸およびスクロースステアレートなどのスクロースのエステルなどの、脂肪酸およびポリオールのエステル;脂肪族アルコールおよび糖のエーテル、特に、たとえば、それぞれの名称Plantaren(登録商標)2000およびPlantaren(登録商標)1200の下で会社Henkelによって売られているデシルグルコシドおよびラウリルグルコシドなどのアルキルポリグルコシド(APG)、たとえば、会社Seppicによって名称Montanov(登録商標)68の下で売られている、任意選択でセテアリールアルコールと混合されたセテアリールグルコシド、ならびにたとえばアラキジルおよびベヘニルアルコールの混合物の形態ならびに会社Seppicによって名称Montanov(登録商標)202の下で売られているアラキジルグルコシドの形態のアラキジルグルコシド;脂肪族アルコールおよびポリエチレングリコールのエーテル;ポリシロキサン修飾ポリエーテル;ベタインおよびその誘導体;ポリクアテルニウム;脂肪族アルコールのエトキシ化硫酸塩;スルホサクシネート;サルコシネート;アルキルおよびジアルキルホスフェートならびにそれらの塩;ならびに脂肪酸のセッケン。前記界面活性剤は、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜8%、好ましくは0.5〜3重量%の程度の含有量で組成物において存在することができる;
− 長い炭素鎖(C14〜C20)を有する直鎖脂肪族アルコール、特にセチルおよびステアリルアルコールなどの、1つまたは複数のコサーファクタント、前記界面活性剤は、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜5%、好ましくは0.5〜2重量%の割合で組成物において存在する;
− 室温で液体であり、一般に、揮発性または不揮発性の、炭化水素油、シリコーン油、直鎖油、環状油、または分岐油と呼ばれる、1つまたは複数の脂肪、たとえば、ポリジメチルシロキサン(ジメチコン)、ポリアルキルシクロシロキサン(シクロメチコン)、およびポリアルキルフェニルシロキサン(フェニルジメチコン)などのシリコーン油;フッ化油、アルキルベンゾエート、およびポリイソブチレンなどの分岐炭化水素、イソドデカンなどの合成油;鉱油(パラフィン);植物油(スイートアーモンド油、マカダミア油、クロフサスグリ種子油、ホホバ油、または会社Unipexによって商品名Lipex(登録商標)Omega3/6の下で販売されている油などのナガミノアマナズナ(camelina sativa)油);脂肪族アルコール、脂肪酸アミド、脂肪酸、または会社Innospecによって商品名Finsolv(登録商標)TNの下で販売されているC12〜C15アルコールのベンゾエートもしくは会社Alzo Inc.によって商品名Wickenol(登録商標)151の下で販売されているイソノニルイソノナノエート、オクチルパルミテート、イソプロピルラノレート、カプリン/カプリル酸のトリグリセリドを含むトリグリセリド、会社Cognisによって名称Cetiol(登録商標)CCの下で販売されているジカプリリルカーボネートなどのエステル;好ましくは、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約10%、好ましくは0.5〜5重量%の割合;
− オゾケライト、ポリエチレンワックス、みつろう、またはカルナウバろうなどの、1つまたは複数のろう(室温で固体であり、または実質的に固体であり、その融点が一般に35℃を超える化合物)、好ましくは、組成物の全重量に対して0.01〜約5%、好ましくは0.5〜5重量%の割合;
− 少なくとも1つの反応性基(特に水素またはビニル)を有し、少なくとも1つのアルキル(特にメチル)またはフェニル末端および/または側鎖基を有するポリシロキサンの、有機水素ポリシロキサンなどの有機シリコーンとの、触媒の存在下における、反応によって特に得られる1つまたは複数のシリコーンエラストマー、好ましくは、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約20%、好ましくは0.25〜15重量%の割合;
− 1つまたは複数の日焼け止め剤、特に、ジベンゾイルメタンの誘導体(特に、商品名Parsol(登録商標)1789の下でDSMによって売られているブチルメトキシジベンゾイルメタンを含む)、ケイ皮酸の誘導体(特に、商品名Parsol(登録商標)MCXの下でDSMによって売られているエチルヘキシルメトキシシンナメートを含む)、サリチレート、パラアミノ安息香酸、β−β’−ジフェニルアクリレート、ベンゾフェノン、ベンジリデンショウノウの誘導体、フェニルベンゾイミダゾール、トリアジン、フェニルベンゾトリアゾール、およびアントラニル酸誘導体などの有機フィルター;または色素もしくはナノ色素の形態の鉱物酸化物ベースの、被覆されたまたは被覆されていない、特に、二酸化チタンまたは酸化亜鉛ベースの無機フィルター;好ましくは、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約30%、より好ましくは0.5〜20重量%の割合;
− たとえばポンソーの二ナトリウム塩、アリザリングリーン、キノリンイエローの二ナトリウム塩、アマランスの三ナトリウム塩、タルトラジンの二ナトリウム塩、ローダミンの一ナトリウム塩、フクシンまたはキサントフィルの二ナトリウム塩などの1つまたは複数の水溶性染料、好ましくは、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約2重量%の割合;
− 1つまたは複数の増量剤、特に艶消剤の増量剤またはかすみ効果を有する増量剤、特に、ソフトフォーカス効果を有する粉末。
「増量剤」は、無色または白色で、鉱物または合成の、層状または非層状で、適用の際、組成物に粘りもしくは剛性および/または柔軟性、マットな外観、ならびに即時の均一性を与えるのに適している粒子を意味する。これらの増量剤は、特に、カモフラージュ効果またはぼかし効果によってしわを修正するまたはさらにマスクすることができる。
艶消剤は、艶消ポリマー(溶液中、分散液中、または粒子の形態の)および皮膚の光沢を低下させ、肌色をより一様にする無機粒子から選択することができる。
艶消剤は、特に、デンプン、タルク、セルロースマイクロビーズ、植物繊維、合成繊維、特にポリアミド(ナイロン12(会社Atochemによって売られているOrgasol(登録商標))などのNylon(登録商標)の粉末)、特にポリメタクリル酸メチルのアクリルコポリマーのマイクロスフェア(PMMA粒子または会社Seppicによって販売されているMicropearl(登録商標)M310粒子)、シリカ粉末、シリコーン樹脂粉末、アクリルポリマー粉末、ポリエチレン粉末、架橋エラストマー有機ポリシロキサン(特に、会社Shin−Etsuによって名称KSG(登録商標)の下で、会社Dow Corningによって名称Trefil(登録商標)、BY29(登録商標)、もしくはEPSX(登録商標)の下で、または会社Grant Industriesによって名称Gransil(登録商標)の下で売られている)、タルク/二酸化チタン/アルミナ/シリカの複合粉、ケイ酸塩粉末、およびそれらの混合物から選択することができる。
「ソフトフォーカス」効果を有する増量剤は、肌色に対して透明度およびぼかし効果を与えることができる。好ましくは、「ソフトフォーカス」増量剤は、30ミクロン以下、より好ましくは15ミクロン以下の平均粒度を有する。これらの「ソフトフォーカス」増量剤は、任意の形状のものであることができ、特に球状または非球状であることができる。それらは、シリカおよびケイ酸塩の、特にアルミナの粉末、ポリメタクリル酸メチルタイプ型の粉末(PMMAまたはMicropearl(登録商標)M310)、タルク、シリカ/TiO2またはシリカ/酸化亜鉛複合体、ポリエチレン粉末、デンプン粉末、ポリアミド粉末、スチレン/アクリルコポリマーの粉末、シリコーンエラストマー、およびそれらの混合物から選択することができる。
好ましくは、ソフトフォーカス効果を有するこれらの艶消剤または増量剤は、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約10重量%の割合で、好ましくは0.1〜約7重量%の割合で使用される。
− 1つまたは複数の色素、白色または有色で、真珠光沢のまたはそうではない、鉱物および/または有機の、被覆されたまたは被覆されていない、媒体に不溶性の、組成物を着色するおよび/または不透明にするための色素。それらは、通常のサイズまたはナノメートルとすることができる。本発明者らは、鉱物顔料の中でも、任意選択で表面処理された二酸化チタン、鉄またはクロムの酸化物、マンガンバイオレット、ウルトラマリンブルー、水酸化クロム、およびアイアンブルー(ferric blue)を挙げることができる。有機顔料の中でも、本発明者らは、カーボンブラック、D&C型の色素、カルミン、バリウム、ストロンチウム、カルシウム、アルミニウムベースのレーキを挙げることができる。真珠光沢顔料または真珠層は、光を反射する虹色の粒子である。これらの真珠光沢顔料は、チタンまたはオキシ塩化ビスマスにより覆われた雲母などの白色の真珠光沢顔料、酸化鉄を有するチタン雲母などの有色の真珠光沢顔料から選択することができる。色素は、表面処理を受けることができる。好ましくは、これらの色素は、組成物の全重量に対して0.1〜約10重量%の割合で、好ましくは、0.1〜約5重量%の割合で使用される。
− 1つまたは複数のリフティング剤。「リフティング剤」は、皮膚を伸ばし、この伸ばし効果によって、皮膚を滑らかにし、しわおよびラインの即時の減少またはさらに消失を引き起こすのに適している化合物を意味する。リフティング剤として、本発明者らは、天然起源のポリマー;混合ケイ酸塩;無機増量剤のコロイド粒子;合成ポリマー;およびそれらの混合物を挙げることができる。本発明者らは、特に、植物性または微生物起源のポリマー、外皮付属物に由来するポリマー、卵タンパク質、および天然起源のラテックスを挙げることができる。これらのポリマーは、好ましくは、親水性である。植物性起源のポリマーとして、本発明者らは、特に、タンパク質およびタンパク質の加水分解物ならびに特に、トウモロコシ、ライ麦、小麦、ソバ、ゴマ、スペルトコムギ、エンドウ、タピオカ、豆、レンズマメ、大豆、およびルピナスの抽出物などの穀物、豆科植物、および油性植物の抽出物を挙げることができる。本発明に従って使用することができる他のリフティング剤は、天然起源の多糖、特に、特にコメ、トウモロコシ、タピオカ、ジャガイモ、キャッサバ、エンドウから得られるデンプン;有利にはゲルの微粒子の水性分散液中のカラギナン、アカシアゴム(アラビアゴム)、アルギナート、寒天、ジェラン、キサンタンガム、セルロースポリマー、およびペクチン、セルロース誘導体、ならびにそれらの混合物である。合成ポリマーは、一般に、ラテックスもしくは偽ラテックス(pseudolatex)の形態であり、重縮合物型のものとすることができるまたはラジカル重合によって得ることができる。本発明者らは、特に、ポリエステル/ポリウレタンおよびポリエーテル/ポリウレタンの分散液を挙げることができる。好ましくは、リフティング剤は、PVP/ジメチコニルアクリレートおよび親水性ポリウレタンのコポリマーである(会社HydromerのAquamere(登録商標)S−2011(登録商標))。
− 1つまたは複数の防腐剤;
− EDTAの塩などの金属イオン封鎖剤;
− 香料;
− ならびにそれらの混合物。
1)アルコール抽出
500リットルのステンレス鋼リアクター中にヤブツバキアルバプレナ(Camellia Japonica Alba Plena)の花35kgを入れる。
熱い96%エタノール(容量/容量)および活性炭を用いて抽出物を洗浄する。このために、1.78kgの抽出物を14lの96%エタノールおよび1.75kgの活性炭と混合する。
プロトコール:
実施例1の抽出物の効果は、未処理試料と比べて、処理試料におけるHSP32のメッセンジャーRNAの発現を定量するために、RT−PCR(リアルタイムポリメラーゼ連鎖反応)によって評価した。結果を、これらの試料における自己の遺伝子の発現と比べて、標準化した。
− 標的遺伝子:HSP32(HO−1)
− 自己の遺伝子:GAPDH
プロトコール:
HSP27タンパク質の発現の刺激は、ツバキ属の花の様々な抽出物、すなわち、実施例1に従って得た抽出物ならびにすべて、実施例1において記載されているものと同一の抽出プロセスに従って得たヤブツバキドクターティンスレイ(Camellia japonica Dr Tinsley)、ヤブツバキブロセリアンド(Camellia japonica Broceliande)、およびヤブツバキファイアーフォールズ(Camellia japonica Fire Falls)の花の抽出物を用いて調査した。実験は、実施例2において記載されているものと同一の条件で培養したケラチノサイトの培養物に対して実行した。
プロトコール:
タンパク質PPAR−β/δの発現の刺激は、ツバキ属の花の様々な抽出物、すなわち、実施例1に従って得た抽出物ならびにすべて、実施例1において記載されているものと同一の抽出プロセスに従って得たヤブツバキドクターティンスレイ(Camellia japonica Dr Tinsley)、ヤブツバキブロセリアンド(Camellia japonica Broceliande)、およびヤブツバキファイアーフォールズ(Camellia japonica Fire Falls)の花の抽出物を用いて調査した。実験は、実施例2において記載されているものと同一の条件で培養したケラチノサイトの培養物に対して実行した。
当業者は、以下の組成物を従来法で調製することができる。下記に示す量は、重量パーセントで表現する。大文字の成分は、INCI名に従って同定される。
Claims (10)
- ヤブツバキアルバプレナ(Camellia Japonica Alba Plena)の花の少なくとも1つの抽出物を生理学的に許容される媒体中に含有する化粧用組成物。
- 前記抽出物が、任意選択で水と混合されている一価アルコールおよび/またはグリコールによるアルコール抽出によって得ることができることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の組成物。
- 前記抽出溶媒が、エタノールを含むことを特徴とする、請求項2に記載の組成物。
- 水和剤、酸化防止剤、微小循環を促進する作用物質、およびそれらの混合物から選択される少なくとも1つの活性物質をさらに含有することを特徴とする、請求項1から3のいずれか一項に記載の組成物。
- 前記活性物質が、サーマス・サーモフィルス(Thermus thermophilus)の発酵抽出物;ショウガ(Zingiber officinale)の根の抽出物;ヒアルロン酸およびその誘導体;イナゴマメ果肉の抽出物;ならびにそれらの混合物から選択されることを特徴とする、請求項4に記載の組成物。
- ヒト皮膚に潤いを与えるおよび/または乾燥からヒト皮膚を保護するための、請求項1から5のいずれか一項に記載の組成物の化粧用の使用。
- 前記組成物が、乾燥した病的でない皮膚に対して適用されることを特徴とする、請求項6に記載の使用。
- 少なくとも1つのアルコール溶媒による花の抽出によって得ることができることを特徴とする、ヤブツバキアルバプレナ(Camellia Japonica Alba Plena)の花の抽出物。
- 任意選択で水と混合されている一価アルコールおよび/またはグリコールによるアルコール抽出によって得ることができることを特徴とする、請求項8に記載の抽出物。
- 前記抽出溶媒が、エタノールを含むことを特徴とする、請求項9に記載の抽出物。
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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US29331210P | 2010-01-08 | 2010-01-08 | |
US61/293,312 | 2010-01-08 | ||
PCT/EP2011/050053 WO2011083110A2 (en) | 2010-01-08 | 2011-01-04 | Use of at least one extract of flowers of camellia japonica alba plena for moisturizing the skin |
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JP2013516441A true JP2013516441A (ja) | 2013-05-13 |
JP5746214B2 JP5746214B2 (ja) | 2015-07-08 |
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Also Published As
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US20120282244A1 (en) | 2012-11-08 |
ES2522935T3 (es) | 2014-11-19 |
US8715651B2 (en) | 2014-05-06 |
EP2521528A2 (en) | 2012-11-14 |
WO2011083110A2 (en) | 2011-07-14 |
WO2011083110A3 (en) | 2013-01-31 |
JP5746214B2 (ja) | 2015-07-08 |
EP2521528B1 (en) | 2014-08-20 |
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