JP2002201541A - Crimped polyester multifilament - Google Patents

Crimped polyester multifilament

Info

Publication number
JP2002201541A
JP2002201541A JP2000394402A JP2000394402A JP2002201541A JP 2002201541 A JP2002201541 A JP 2002201541A JP 2000394402 A JP2000394402 A JP 2000394402A JP 2000394402 A JP2000394402 A JP 2000394402A JP 2002201541 A JP2002201541 A JP 2002201541A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
crimped polyester
polyester multifilament
section
cross
dents
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP2000394402A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP4183383B2 (en
Inventor
Ryuji Uemura
竜司 植村
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Teijin Ltd
Original Assignee
Teijin Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Teijin Ltd filed Critical Teijin Ltd
Priority to JP2000394402A priority Critical patent/JP4183383B2/en
Publication of JP2002201541A publication Critical patent/JP2002201541A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP4183383B2 publication Critical patent/JP4183383B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a crimped polyester multifilament capable of giving a fabric which exhibits not only simply enhanced water absorbability but also excellent washing durability and excellent quick drying property and further shows good dry touch, when subjected to a hydrophilic processing. SOLUTION: This multi-filament comprising crimped polyester filaments each having three or more of dents in the cross section in which the standard deviations of the opening depths S of the total dents is 20 to 50, and in which the dents having opening depths S of >=30% exist in amount of >=50% based on the total dents.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は捲縮ポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメントに関するものであり、さらに詳しく
は、親水加工を施した際、吸水性とその洗濯耐久性並び
に速乾性に優れ、且つ良好なドライ感を呈する布帛を得
ることが可能な捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメントに
関するものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a crimped polyester multifilament, and more particularly to a water-absorbent, highly durable, fast drying and good dry feeling when subjected to a hydrophilic treatment. The present invention relates to a crimped polyester multifilament capable of obtaining a fabric to be exhibited.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来より、サッカーシャツ、ランニング
シャツあるいはゴルフシャツなどのスポーツ衣料用途に
おいては、汗をかいても快適な状態が維持されるよう
に、吸汗速乾性を有する布帛が使用されてきた。このよ
うな吸汗速乾性布帛には、例えば特公昭62−4534
0号公報、特許第2667152号公報などに開示され
ているように、繊維の断面に凹部を有するポリエステル
繊維が用いられていることが多い。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in sports clothing applications such as soccer shirts, running shirts and golf shirts, fabrics having a quick-drying property have been used so as to maintain a comfortable state even when sweating. . Such sweat-absorbing quick-drying fabrics include, for example, JP-B-62-4534.
As disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 0, Patent No. 2,667,152 and the like, polyester fibers having concave portions in the cross section of the fibers are often used.

【0003】このような、断面に凹部を有するポリエス
テル繊維の代表例の一つがW字状断面のポリエステル繊
維であり、これらの繊維はその単繊維間に毛細管が有効
に形成されるので吸水特性や導水特性に優れているた
め、専ら仮撚加工等の加工を施されて使用されている
(例えば、特開昭63−219628号公報、特開昭6
2−6933号公報、特開昭62−21837号公報、
特開昭62−238842号公報、或いは特開昭62−
276060号公報など)。
[0003] One of the typical examples of such polyester fibers having a concave portion in cross section is a polyester fiber having a W-shaped cross section, and since these fibers have a capillary formed effectively between the single fibers, the water absorption properties and the like are high. Because of its excellent water-guiding properties, it is used after being subjected to processing such as false twisting (for example, JP-A-63-219628, JP-A-6-219628).
2-6933, JP-A-62-21837,
JP-A-62-238842 or JP-A-62-288842.
276060).

【0004】しかしながら、上記のW字状断面のポリエ
ステル繊維に仮撚等の物理的衝撃を与えた場合、構成単
繊維がその長手方向に割れ易く、せっかく形成された毛
細管が破壊されて吸水特性や導水特性が低下するという
問題があった。
However, when a physical impact such as false twist is applied to the above-mentioned polyester fiber having a W-shaped cross section, the constituent monofilament is liable to break in its longitudinal direction, and the formed capillary tube is broken, and the water absorption property and the like are degraded. There was a problem that the water transfer characteristics were reduced.

【0005】一方、特開平11−269718号公報に
は、高度に異形化された断面を有する吸水性のポリエス
テル仮撚加工糸が開示されているが、該加工糸を構成す
る繊維の断面に存在する凹部はその開口角が100〜1
50°と大きいため、水分の保持能力が低く、吸水性と
その洗濯耐久性に劣るという問題があった。
[0005] On the other hand, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-269718 discloses a water-absorbing polyester false twisted yarn having a highly deformed cross section, but is present in the cross section of the fiber constituting the processed yarn. The concave portion has an opening angle of 100 to 1
Since it is as large as 50 °, there was a problem that the ability to retain moisture was low, and the water absorption and the washing durability were poor.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明の目的は上記従
来技術の有する問題点を解消し、親水加工を施した際、
ただ単に吸水性を高めるのみならず、その洗濯耐久性並
びに速乾性に優れ、且つ良好なドライ感を呈する布帛を
得ることが可能な捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメント
を提供することにある。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art,
It is an object of the present invention to provide a crimped polyester multifilament capable of obtaining a fabric which not only merely enhances water absorption but also has excellent washing durability and quick-drying property and exhibits a good dry feeling.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者は上記目的を達
成するために鋭意検討した結果、捲縮ポリエステルフィ
ラメントの断面に存在する凹部の開口深度に特定のバラ
ツキを付与するとき、所望の捲縮マルチフィラメントが
得られることを究明し、本発明に到達した。
Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventor has found that when a specific variation is imparted to the opening depth of the concave portion existing in the cross section of the crimped polyester filament, a desired winding is obtained. The inventors of the present invention have sought to obtain a reduced multifilament and have reached the present invention.

【0008】かくして本発明によれば、その断面に、3
個以上の凹部が存在する捲縮ポリエステルフィラメント
から構成されるマルチフィラメントであって、下記方法
により測定した全凹部の開口深度Sの標準偏差が20〜
50であり、且つ開口深度Sが30%以上となる凹部が
全凹部に対して50%以上存在していることを特徴とす
る捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメントが提供される。
Thus, according to the present invention, 3
A multifilament composed of crimped polyester filaments having at least two concave portions, wherein the standard deviation of the opening depth S of all concave portions measured by the following method is 20 to
The present invention provides a crimped polyester multifilament, wherein the number of concave portions is 50 and the concave portion having an opening depth S of 30% or more exists in all concave portions by 50% or more.

【0009】(開口深度Sの測定)ポリエステルマルチ
フィラメントを構成する各フィラメントにつき、その任
意の断面における凹部の開口部の長さL、凹部の最大深
さHより下記式を用いて算出する。
(Measurement of Opening Depth S) For each filament constituting the polyester multifilament, it is calculated from the length L of the opening of the concave portion and the maximum depth H of the concave portion in an arbitrary cross section using the following equation.

【0010】[0010]

【数2】 (Equation 2)

【0011】[0011]

【発明の実施の形態】本発明の捲縮ポリエステルマルチ
フィラメントは、捲縮を有するポリエチレンテレフタレ
ートフィラメントから主として構成される。ここで、捲
縮とは上記フィラメントに、仮撚加工等、従来公知の捲
縮付与手段を適用して得たものを言う。
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The crimped polyester multifilament of the present invention is mainly composed of crimped polyethylene terephthalate filaments. Here, the crimp refers to a filament obtained by applying a conventionally known crimping means such as false twisting to the filament.

【0012】また、上記の捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメントを得るための原糸は、中間配向糸(POY)で
も完全配向糸(FOY)でも良い。
The raw yarn for obtaining the above-mentioned crimped polyester multifilament may be a middle oriented yarn (POY) or a fully oriented yarn (FOY).

【0013】本発明においては、上記捲縮ポリエステル
フィラメントの断面には3個以上の凹部が存在すること
が必要である。該凹部の数が2個未満の場合は、単繊維
間に毛細管が有効に形成されず、親水加工を施した際、
吸水特性や導水特性を高めることができない。
In the present invention, it is necessary that the cross section of the crimped polyester filament has three or more concave portions. When the number of the concave portions is less than 2, when the capillary is not effectively formed between the single fibers, and subjected to hydrophilic processing,
Water absorption characteristics and water conduction characteristics cannot be improved.

【0014】また、本発明においては、上記捲縮ポリエ
ステルフィラメントの任意の断面において、凹部の開口
部の長さをL、凹部の最大深さをHとするとき、下記式
により算出した凹部の開口深度Sが30%以上となるも
のが全凹部に対して50%以上存在していることが必要
である。
In the present invention, when the length of the opening of the recess is L and the maximum depth of the recess is H in an arbitrary cross section of the crimped polyester filament, the opening of the recess is calculated by the following equation. It is necessary that the depth S of 30% or more exists in all the recesses by 50% or more.

【0015】[0015]

【数3】 (Equation 3)

【0016】該比率が50%未満の場合は、親水加工を
施した際、吸水特性や導水特性を高めることができない
上、その洗濯耐久性並びに速乾性が低下する。一方、該
比率があまり高すぎると、仮撚加工等で、形成された毛
細管が破壊されて吸水特性や導水特性が低下することが
あるので、高々70%が好ましい。
When the ratio is less than 50%, the water absorbing property and the water guiding property cannot be improved when the hydrophilic processing is performed, and the washing durability and quick drying property are reduced. On the other hand, if the ratio is too high, the formed capillaries may be broken by false twisting or the like, and the water absorption characteristics and water conduction characteristics may be reduced.

【0017】さらに、本発明においては、全凹部の開口
深度Sの標準偏差が20〜50であることが必要であ
る。該標準偏差の値が20未満の場合は、捲縮ポリエス
テルフィラメントの断面形状が均一となり、親水加工を
施した際、その洗濯耐久性が低下する上、良好なドライ
感を呈する布帛を得ることが困難になる。一方、該標準
偏差の値が50を越える場合は、捲縮ポリエステルフィ
ラメントの断面形状の変化が大きくなり過ぎ、仮撚等の
物理的衝撃を与えた場合、構成単繊維がその長手方向に
割れ易くなり、糸切れや毛羽が発生し易くなるので、製
織編性が低下する。
Further, in the present invention, the standard deviation of the opening depth S of all the concave portions needs to be 20 to 50. When the value of the standard deviation is less than 20, the cross-sectional shape of the crimped polyester filament becomes uniform, and when subjected to hydrophilic processing, the washing durability is reduced and a fabric exhibiting a good dry feeling can be obtained. It becomes difficult. On the other hand, when the value of the standard deviation exceeds 50, the cross-sectional shape of the crimped polyester filament changes too much, and when a physical impact such as false twist is applied, the constituent single fiber is easily broken in the longitudinal direction. As a result, yarn breakage and fluff are likely to occur, and the weaving and knitting properties decrease.

【0018】本発明の捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ントは、例えば、十字断面(この場合、凹部は4個存在
する)のポリエステルマルチフィラメント中間配向糸を
従来公知の延伸仮撚加工装置に供給し、延伸倍率や延伸
仮撚の温度或いは仮撚数を適宜調整しながら延伸仮撚加
工することにより得ることができる。
For the crimped polyester multifilament of the present invention, for example, a polyester multifilament intermediate oriented yarn having a cross section (in this case, four concave portions are present) is supplied to a conventionally known drawing false twisting apparatus, and a draw ratio is set. It can be obtained by performing a stretch false twisting process while appropriately adjusting the temperature or the number of false twists.

【0019】即ち、十字断面のポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメントを延伸仮撚した場合、断面に存在する凹部の一
部が仮撚により変形され、その開口深度Sが大きい部分
や小さい部分がフィラメント間或いはフィラメントの長
手方向にランダムに形成されるので、上述のような開口
深度Sのバラツキを有する捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメントが製造可能となるのである。
That is, when a polyester multifilament having a cross-section is stretched and false-twisted, a part of the concave portion existing in the cross-section is deformed by false-twisting, and a portion where the opening depth S is large or small is formed between the filaments or the length of the filament. Since it is formed randomly in the direction, a crimped polyester multifilament having the variation of the opening depth S as described above can be manufactured.

【0020】上記の捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
トは、従来公知の方法により織編物等の布帛とすること
ができる。この際、布帛の組織や編織密度等には特に限
定はなく、従来公知のものが任意に採用できる。
The above-mentioned crimped polyester multifilament can be made into a woven or knitted fabric by a conventionally known method. At this time, there are no particular limitations on the structure of the fabric, the knitting density, and the like, and conventionally known ones can be arbitrarily adopted.

【0021】かくして得られた布帛は、例えば親水加工
を施した際、良好な吸水性を示すのみならず、その洗濯
耐久性並びに速乾性に優れ、且つ良好なドライ感を呈す
るので、特にスポーツ衣料用途に好適に使用できる。
The fabric thus obtained, for example, when subjected to a hydrophilic treatment, exhibits not only good water absorbency, but also excellent washing durability and quick-drying properties, and exhibits a good dry feeling. Suitable for use.

【0022】[0022]

【実施例】以下、実施例により本発明をさらに詳細に説
明する。尚、実施例中の物性は下記の方法により測定し
た。
The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The physical properties in the examples were measured by the following methods.

【0023】(1)D/Y ディスク式仮撚装置における、仮撚ディスクの表面速度
Dと糸走行速度Yの比を仮撚数の指標とした。
(1) The ratio of the surface speed D of the false twist disk to the yarn running speed Y in the D / Y disk type false twist device was used as an index of the number of false twists.

【0024】(2)開口深度S ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを構成する各フィラメ
ントにつき、その任意の断面において、図1に示すよう
に、凹部の開口部の長さL、凹部の最大深さHを測定
し、下記式を用いて算出する。
(2) Opening Depth S For each filament constituting the polyester multifilament, the length L of the opening of the concave portion and the maximum depth H of the concave portion were measured at an arbitrary cross section as shown in FIG. , Using the following equation.

【0025】[0025]

【数4】 (Equation 4)

【0026】(3)ウィッキング 親水加工を施した布帛につき、JIS L1907−
5.1.1(滴下法)に準じて測定を行った。L0は親
水加工を施した後のウィッキングの値(秒)、また、L
10は、JIS L0844−A−2法により10回洗
濯を行った後のウィッキングの値(秒)を表す。
(3) Wicking JIS L1907-
The measurement was performed according to 5.1.1 (dropping method). L0 is the wicking value (seconds) after the hydrophilic processing, and L0
10 represents a wicking value (second) after washing 10 times according to the JIS L0844-A-2 method.

【0027】(4)製織性 ウォータージェットルーム織機を用いて製織した際、経
糸の毛羽による停台回数が3回/時間以上の場合を不
良、3回/時間未満の場合を良好と判断した。
(4) Weaving properties When weaving was carried out using a water jet loom, the case where the number of stops due to the warp fluff was 3 times / hour or more was judged to be poor, and the case where it was less than 3 times / hour was judged to be good.

【0028】(5)布帛の風合 布帛のドライ感を熟練者5人により官能判定し、1級
(極めて不良)〜5級(極めて良好)の5段階で評価し
た。
(5) Hand feeling of the fabric The dry feeling of the fabric was sensory-determined by five skilled persons and evaluated on a scale of 1st (extremely poor) to 5th (extremely good).

【0029】[実施例1]ポリエチレンテレフタレート
ポリマーを常法により紡糸して得た、139dtex/
24フィラメントの十字断面ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント(中間配向糸)を仮撚加工装置に供給し、表1に
示す条件で仮撚加工を施して、83dtex/24フィ
ラメントの捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを得
た。
Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate polymer obtained by spinning according to a conventional method was 139 dtex /
A 24-filament cross-section polyester multifilament (intermediate-oriented yarn) was supplied to a false twisting device and subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a crimped polyester multifilament of 83 dtex / 24 filaments.

【0030】次に、該捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ントを経糸及び緯糸に配し、常法により製織及び染色仕
上げ加工を行って、織物を得た。得られた捲縮ポリエス
テルマルチフィラメント及び織物の物性を表1に示す。
Next, the crimped polyester multifilament was arranged on a warp and a weft and woven and dyed and finished by a conventional method to obtain a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained crimped polyester multifilament and woven fabric.

【0031】[実施例2]実施例1において、仮撚加工
条件を表1に示す如く変更した以外は実施例1と同様に
実施した。得られた捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト及び織物の物性を表1に示す。
Example 2 Example 1 was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twisting conditions were changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained crimped polyester multifilament and woven fabric.

【0032】[比較例1〜4]実施例1において、仮撚
加工条件を表1に示す如く変更した以外は実施例1と同
様に実施した。得られた捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラ
メント及び織物の物性を表1に示す。尚、比較例4にお
いては、製織時の経糸に毛羽が多発し、製織が不可能で
あった。
[Comparative Examples 1 to 4] The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that the false twisting conditions were changed as shown in Table 1. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained crimped polyester multifilament and woven fabric. In Comparative Example 4, the warp during weaving had many fluffs, and weaving was impossible.

【0033】[比較例5]実施例1において、十字断面
ポリエステルマルチフィラメントに代えてT字断面ポリ
エステルマルチフィラメントを使用し、仮撚加工条件を
表1に示す如く変更した以外は実施例1と同様に実施し
た。得られた捲縮ポリエステルマルチフィラメント及び
織物の物性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 5] Same as Example 1 except that a T-shaped cross-section polyester multifilament was used instead of the cross-section polyester multifilament and the false twisting conditions were changed as shown in Table 1. Was carried out. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained crimped polyester multifilament and woven fabric.

【0034】[0034]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0035】[0035]

【発明の効果】本発明によれば、親水加工を施した際、
吸水性とその洗濯耐久性並びに速乾性に優れ、且つ良好
なドライ感を呈する布帛を得ることが可能な捲縮ポリエ
ステルマルチフィラメントが得られるので、スポーツ衣
料用織編物に好適に使用できる。
According to the present invention, when subjected to hydrophilic processing,
Since a crimped polyester multifilament which is excellent in water absorbency, its washing durability and quick-drying property and can provide a fabric exhibiting a good dry feeling is obtained, it can be suitably used for a woven or knitted fabric for sports clothing.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】開口深度Sの測定方法を説明するための繊維の
断面図。
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a fiber for explaining a method of measuring an opening depth S.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

L 凹部の開口部の長さ H 凹部の最大深さ L Length of opening of recess H Maximum depth of recess

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.7 識別記号 FI テーマコート゛(参考) D03D 15/08 D03D 15/08 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. 7 Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D03D 15/08 D03D 15/08

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 その断面に、3個以上の凹部が存在する
捲縮ポリエステルフィラメントから構成されるマルチフ
ィラメントであって、下記方法により測定した全凹部の
開口深度Sの標準偏差が20〜50であり、且つ開口深
度Sが30%以上となる凹部が全凹部に対して50%以
上存在していることを特徴とする捲縮ポリエステルマル
チフィラメント。 (開口深度Sの測定)ポリエステルマルチフィラメント
を構成する各フィラメントにつき、その任意の断面にお
ける凹部の開口部の長さL、凹部の最大深さHより下記
式を用いて算出する。 【数1】
1. A multifilament composed of a crimped polyester filament having three or more recesses in its cross section, wherein the standard deviation of the opening depth S of all the recesses measured by the following method is 20 to 50. A crimped polyester multifilament characterized in that there is a concave portion having an opening depth S of 30% or more and 50% or more of all the concave portions. (Measurement of Opening Depth S) For each filament constituting the polyester multifilament, it is calculated from the length L of the opening of the concave portion and the maximum depth H of the concave portion in an arbitrary cross section using the following formula. (Equation 1)
JP2000394402A 2000-12-26 2000-12-26 Crimped polyester multifilament Expired - Lifetime JP4183383B2 (en)

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003105644A (en) * 2001-07-17 2003-04-09 Teijin Ltd Polyester false-twisted textured yarn and method for producing the same
WO2004057074A1 (en) * 2002-12-19 2004-07-08 Teijin Limited Polyester false-twisted yarn and method of manufacturing the yarn
JP2006274511A (en) * 2005-03-30 2006-10-12 Teijin Fibers Ltd Cation-dyeable false twist yarn having specific cross section and method for producing the same
JP2007063691A (en) * 2005-08-30 2007-03-15 Teijin Fibers Ltd Antistatic fabric and skin material for car seat
KR100885822B1 (en) 2004-08-17 2009-02-26 데이진 가부시키가이샤 Polyester false-twisted yarn and method of manufacturing the yarn
JP2014189915A (en) * 2013-03-26 2014-10-06 Toray Ind Inc Polyester drawn false-twisted yarn

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003105644A (en) * 2001-07-17 2003-04-09 Teijin Ltd Polyester false-twisted textured yarn and method for producing the same
JP4700238B2 (en) * 2001-07-17 2011-06-15 帝人ファイバー株式会社 Polyester false twisted yarn and method for producing the same
WO2004057074A1 (en) * 2002-12-19 2004-07-08 Teijin Limited Polyester false-twisted yarn and method of manufacturing the yarn
US7000375B2 (en) 2002-12-19 2006-02-21 Teijin Limited Polyester false-twist yarn and method of manufacturing the yarn
KR100885822B1 (en) 2004-08-17 2009-02-26 데이진 가부시키가이샤 Polyester false-twisted yarn and method of manufacturing the yarn
JP2006274511A (en) * 2005-03-30 2006-10-12 Teijin Fibers Ltd Cation-dyeable false twist yarn having specific cross section and method for producing the same
JP2007063691A (en) * 2005-08-30 2007-03-15 Teijin Fibers Ltd Antistatic fabric and skin material for car seat
JP2014189915A (en) * 2013-03-26 2014-10-06 Toray Ind Inc Polyester drawn false-twisted yarn

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