Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

• This invention relates to the field of personal care products. More specifically, the present invention describes the composition of formulations and their use for cosmetic applications, namely for hair treatment, chemically pre-treated or not, formulations that contain agents (neck and carbohydrate recognition domains) for enhancing hair properties, such as elasticity and resistance, and look (curling or uncurling).
• agents neck and carbohydrate recognition domains
• hair properties such as elasticity and resistance, and look (curling or uncurling).
• Human hair is a laminar-fibrous tissue, comprised of keratin.
• the main morphological component is the fibrous cortex (about 80%) surrounded by the multicellular fiat cuticle sheet (about 15%).
• the cuticle layer is characterized by having high cystine content, providing hair with its unique properties.
• coarse hair fibres contain a central strand of single or connected medulla cells.
• a water-soluble compound derived from a vegetable protein derivative a low-molecular peptide of various kinds of amino acids obtained by hydrolyzing a plant such as rice with an acid, an alkali, a proteinase, etc.
• a cationic surfactant and chitosan or chitin a cationic surfactant
• the patent WO 00/23039 describes a hair treatment composition containing a non-naturally occurring keratin protein.
• the patent WO 03/045340 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising a mixture of a hydrolysed protein and an amino acid with aliphatic side chain.
• the inclusion of hy- drolysed proteins in hair formulations is also described in patents EP0186025 and WO 98/51265 were they are said to provide an excellent finishing effect.
• patents WO 92/00720 and WO 00/71086 describe the use of amino acids such as leucine, lysine or valine to stimulate growth and regeneration of hair and to prevent the formation of split ends.
• the use of enzymes as activating agents to deliver some benefits in hair care, like for example in patent WO 00/64405, is also being described.
• Hair is composed of lipids (structural or free) that act as a barrier to the penetration of compounds into its interior.
• the hair lipids are part of the intercellular complex and are also present in the outer cuticle layer, the exocuticle, where they are linked to the hair proteins by thio-ester linkages.
• the lung is made up of a series of branches conducting air into pulmonary alveoli.
• pulmonary surfactant a mixture of saturated and unsaturated phospholipids and proteins that lines the epithelial surface and reduces surface tension.
• pulmonary surfactant is composed of approximately 50% saturated phospholipids, 40% unsaturated phospholipids and 10% protein, including hydrophilic surfactant proteins A (SP-A) and D (SP-D), and the hydrophobic surfactant proteins B (SP-B) and C (SP-C) [4;5].
• 'surfactant proteins compounds' is intended to refer to proteins found in lung, and includes derivatives, analogs, homologs, salts and fragments thereof.
• 'synthetic protein polymers / biologically active peptides' refers to protein compounds that include peptides which are defined as synthetic chains of up to 100 amino acids and fragments, which substantially correspond in sequence to amino acid sequence found in specific portions of antimicrobial lung surfactant protein compounds.
• the antioxidant or antimicrobial protein compound is a peptide comprising from about 5 to 90, preferentially from about 5 to 30 amino acids.
• the peptides of this present invention may be linked additionally to a detectable label or solid matrix or carrier, by either or both the N-terminus and the C-terminus.
• One important outcome if using these antioxidant or antimicrobial peptides in solution is that they are capable of preventing spoilage, off flavours and off colours due to oxidation and/or microbial proliferation in the cosmetic preparations.
• the peptides may be further co- yalently attached to a hair colouring agent, providing therefore a hair colouring formulation that has the durability of the permanent hair dyes without the use of oxidizing agents that damage hair.
• the present invention describes an innovative formulation for cosmetic applications, namely hair treatment, in which neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are incorporated in order to increase hair properties while reducing and repairing eventual damages on hair.
• the term elasticity refers to the flexibility of hair and/or to its tensile strength.
• chemical treatment refers to bleaching or dyeing
• chemically treated hair refers to bleached or dyed hair.
• the chemical processes related to bleaching or dyeing hair are very hard causing reduction in the elastic modulus and elastic gradient of the hair compared to untreated hair.
• the used recognition domains were found to have a pronounced effect on the elasticity of chemically treated hair.
• the recognition domains could be applied into hair in the form of, such as but not limited to, an aqueous solution or a conventional conditioning or shampooing composition.
• a conventional hair care composition may be in the form of a lotion, mousse, spray, gel or hair mask. It may be a rinse-off or leave-on formulation.
• the neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are formulated into a rinse-off shampooing formulation.
• the recognition domains could be incorporated into a bleaching or colorant formulation.
• the recognition domains also protects hair against further damage when, for example, the bleached hair is subsequently dyed.
• the recognition domains also extend the gloss and brightness of the hair and increase its body.
• the amount of the recognition domains to be used according to the present invention depends for example on the condition of the hair, the origin of the hair or the formulation of the hair care product.
• the amount of the recognition domains may vary from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight.
• the neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains from the formulation for cosmetic applications can be selected from a group comprised by:
• Synthetic protein polymers with a size equal to or less than 30 amino acids might be a repetitive amino acid sequence with chemical or biological activities or functions.
• the formulations might contain phospholipids in its composition (as phosphatidylcholine, for example) and the recognition domains might be linked to a chromophore, such as p-aminophenol or p-diaminobenzene, for example.
• a chromophore such as p-aminophenol or p-diaminobenzene, for example.
• the recognition domains could be amino acids with one of the following sequences and their mammal variants, described by the one- letter code which are the symbols commonly used in the art to represent the amino acid residues in peptides.
• LTD LTD
• the hair was subjected to a bleaching pre-treatment, in order to provide damaged hair samples for this particular application. The process was carried out using all the samples simultaneously, such that they received exactly the same extent of processing.
• the bleaching pre-treatment was performed using 10% OfH 2 O 2 (hydrogen peroxide) by gram of hair, in 0.1 M Na 2 CO 3 /NaHCO 3 pH 9 buffer, at 5O 0 C for one hour. After the bleaching pre-treatment, all tresses of hair were washed abundantly with distilled water.
• a solution containing one part of a peptide of structure (XXXXY) 4 in which X is an hydrophobic amino acid and Y is a polar, neutral or basic amino acid, was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine.
• the peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs m& : 544 run; Em ⁇ 572 nm), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair.
• the hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37°C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time.
• the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.
• tensile strength tests and fluorescence microscopy evaluation were performed.
• a panel of 5 technicians evaluated the handle and appearance of the hair, verifying that the hair treated this way presented an increase in the smoothness and body appearance, mainly on the lustre and brightness of the hair, relatively to the bleached hair.
• a solution containing one part of a peptide mimicking the representative structure of the amino acids 215 to 236 of surfactant protein SP-D was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine.
• the peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs max : 544 nm; Em mix : 572 run), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair.
• the hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37 0 C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time. After the treatment the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.

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• Dermatology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

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• 2006
  • 2006-05-19 PT PT10348406A patent/PT103484B/pt active IP Right Grant
• 2007
  • 2007-05-21 EP EP07747760A patent/EP2066292A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2007-05-21 WO PCT/PT2007/000020 patent/WO2007136286A1/en active Application Filing

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