WO2007136286A1

WO2007136286A1 - Formulation containing neck domains and/or carbohydrate recognition domains for cosmetic aplications, namely for the treatment of keratin fibres like hair

Info

Publication number: WO2007136286A1
Application number: PCT/PT2007/000020
Authority: WO
Inventors: Artur Manuel Cavaco Paulo; Carla Joana S. M. Silva
Original assignee: Universidade Do Minho
Priority date: 2006-05-19
Filing date: 2007-05-21
Publication date: 2007-11-29
Also published as: PT103484A; PT103484B; EP2066292A1

Abstract

The present invention describes an innovative formulation for cosmetic applications, namely hair treatment, in which neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are incorporated in order to increase hair properties while reducing and repairing eventual damages on hair. As recognition domains a protein hydrolyzate from a milk protein, some human surfactant proteins and some synthetic biologically active peptides were used.

Description

FORMULATION CONTAINING NECK DOMAINS AND/OR

CARBOHYDRATE RECOGNITION DOMAINS FOR COSMETIC APLICATIONS, NAMELY FOR THE TREATMENT

OF KERATIN FIBRES LIKE HAIR Field of the invention

[1] This invention relates to the field of personal care products. More specifically, the present invention describes the composition of formulations and their use for cosmetic applications, namely for hair treatment, chemically pre-treated or not, formulations that contain agents (neck and carbohydrate recognition domains) for enhancing hair properties, such as elasticity and resistance, and look (curling or uncurling).

Background of the invention

[2] Human hair is a laminar-fibrous tissue, comprised of keratin. The main morphological component is the fibrous cortex (about 80%) surrounded by the multicellular fiat cuticle sheet (about 15%). The cuticle layer is characterized by having high cystine content, providing hair with its unique properties. In addition, coarse hair fibres contain a central strand of single or connected medulla cells.

[3] Human hair varies much in length, thickness and colour in different individuals and among different races of mankind. The exposure of the hair to sun, wind and modern hair styling products and techniques (e.g. shampooing, bleaching, colouration and shaping of hair with wave preparations), imparts significant and unwanted damage to the cuticle and cortex of the hair shaft. This damage results in a loss in body, lustre, and smooth texture. Such damage is also reflected in increased electrostatic charging, reduced maximum tensile strength and breaking of the hair, and in the poor appearance of hair styles.

[4] The use of proteins for cosmetic purposes began more that 50 years ago and was noted as far back as Cleopatra's time when she took her first milk bath. The efficacy and substantivity of proteins in cosmetic applications have been documented by many different methods - both scientific and subjective. The first company that first showed the substantivity of protein hydrolyzates to hair in a very simple way was the American Maywood Chemical Works in the early 1950's. A weighed swatch of hair was washed with a shampoo containing 2-3% (on a solids basis) of protein hydrolyzates (polypeptides). The hair was then washed thoroughly, carefully dried, and re- weighed. It was found that the hair had absorbed 15-20% of its weight in polypeptide. In addition, it has been shown that hair that is more damaged retains more protein, which has been described as a 'self-adjusting' system. In another study performed, it was shown that the adsorption of collagen-derived proteins increases with increase in damage to the hair, with increase in concentration of peptides used, and with a decrease in molecular size of the protein [1-3].

[5] Therefore, the use of protein materials in the formulation of modern hair care products to provide shine, strength, softness, smoothness and good combing properties is well known. The patent JP10251127discloses a composition capable of permeating into shampooed hair to increase the moisture-retention and imparting the hair with moistness as well as dry feeling by including a water-soluble compound derived from a vegetable protein derivative (a low-molecular peptide of various kinds of amino acids obtained by hydrolyzing a plant such as rice with an acid, an alkali, a proteinase, etc.), a cationic surfactant and chitosan or chitin. The patent WO 00/23039 describes a hair treatment composition containing a non-naturally occurring keratin protein. The patent WO 03/045340 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising a mixture of a hydrolysed protein and an amino acid with aliphatic side chain. The inclusion of hy- drolysed proteins in hair formulations is also described in patents EP0186025 and WO 98/51265 were they are said to provide an excellent finishing effect. Also, patents WO 92/00720 and WO 00/71086 describe the use of amino acids such as leucine, lysine or valine to stimulate growth and regeneration of hair and to prevent the formation of split ends. The use of enzymes as activating agents to deliver some benefits in hair care, like for example in patent WO 00/64405, is also being described.

[6] ^■ In this present invention, the use of polypeptides and/or surfactant proteins acting as neck recognition domains (NRD) and/or carbohydrate recognition domains (CRD) is described.

[7] Hair is composed of lipids (structural or free) that act as a barrier to the penetration of compounds into its interior. The hair lipids are part of the intercellular complex and are also present in the outer cuticle layer, the exocuticle, where they are linked to the hair proteins by thio-ester linkages.

[8] The knowledge that surfactant proteins from mammals lungs are able to recognize and interact with lipids lead to the assumption that fragments or models representing those proteins could recognize and interact with hair lipids, increasing therefore the penetration of several compounds inside hair.

[9] The lung is made up of a series of branches conducting air into pulmonary alveoli.

Maintenance of alveolar patency at end expiration requires pulmonary surfactant, a mixture of saturated and unsaturated phospholipids and proteins that lines the epithelial surface and reduces surface tension. By weight, pulmonary surfactant is composed of approximately 50% saturated phospholipids, 40% unsaturated phospholipids and 10% protein, including hydrophilic surfactant proteins A (SP-A) and D (SP-D), and the hydrophobic surfactant proteins B (SP-B) and C (SP-C) [4;5].

[10] As used herein, 'surfactant proteins compounds' is intended to refer to proteins found in lung, and includes derivatives, analogs, homologs, salts and fragments thereof. Also, 'synthetic protein polymers / biologically active peptides' refers to protein compounds that include peptides which are defined as synthetic chains of up to 100 amino acids and fragments, which substantially correspond in sequence to amino acid sequence found in specific portions of antimicrobial lung surfactant protein compounds.

[11] In one embodiment of the present invention, the antioxidant or antimicrobial protein compound is a peptide comprising from about 5 to 90, preferentially from about 5 to 30 amino acids. The peptides of this present invention may be linked additionally to a detectable label or solid matrix or carrier, by either or both the N-terminus and the C-terminus. One important outcome if using these antioxidant or antimicrobial peptides in solution is that they are capable of preventing spoilage, off flavours and off colours due to oxidation and/or microbial proliferation in the cosmetic preparations.

[12] In another embodiment of the present invention, the peptides may be further co- yalently attached to a hair colouring agent, providing therefore a hair colouring formulation that has the durability of the permanent hair dyes without the use of oxidizing agents that damage hair.

[13] The willing of consumers to have undamaged and youthful looking hair justifies by itself the establishment of new inventions relating to compositions for hair care. Therefore, a new methodology of hair treatment is presented here, by using neck and/ or carbohydrates recognition domains that are capable of increasing hair elongation, tensile strength and body, while preventing its damage.

[14] Although many reported studies for the use of protein compounds in hair formulations, it does not appear from the above-mentioned references that proteins enhances and/or maintain the elasticity of hair as in the invention described in this present patent.

Summary of the invention

[15] The present invention describes an innovative formulation for cosmetic applications, namely hair treatment, in which neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are incorporated in order to increase hair properties while reducing and repairing eventual damages on hair.

[16] ^■ In this invention were tested as recognition domains a protein hydrolyzate from a milk protein, some human surfactant proteins and some synthetic biologically active peptides.

Description of the invention

[17] During the development of the present invention, the applicant has recently discovered that the use of compounds acting as neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains enhances the elasticity and/or tensile strength of hair, especially in chemically treated hair. It was also verified that, after treating bleached hair or not, with an aqueous solution containing the NRDs and/or CRDs, the hair was strengthened in both elastic and yield regions. In addition, hair treatment with the recognition domains was found to extend the body, gloss and brightness of the hair. One novelty of this invention lies in the fact that the peptide treatment is specifically driven, by using the recognition domains, to the local damaged hair where the treatment is needed.

[18] In the present invention the term elasticity refers to the flexibility of hair and/or to its tensile strength. Further, in the present invention, chemical treatment refers to bleaching or dyeing, and chemically treated hair refers to bleached or dyed hair. The chemical processes related to bleaching or dyeing hair are very hard causing reduction in the elastic modulus and elastic gradient of the hair compared to untreated hair. In the present invention, the used recognition domains were found to have a pronounced effect on the elasticity of chemically treated hair.

[19] In the scope of the present invention, the recognition domains could be applied into hair in the form of, such as but not limited to, an aqueous solution or a conventional conditioning or shampooing composition. A conventional hair care composition may be in the form of a lotion, mousse, spray, gel or hair mask. It may be a rinse-off or leave-on formulation. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are formulated into a rinse-off shampooing formulation. Further, the recognition domains could be incorporated into a bleaching or colorant formulation. In addition to enhancing and/or maintaining the elasticity of hair, the recognition domains also protects hair against further damage when, for example, the bleached hair is subsequently dyed. The recognition domains also extend the gloss and brightness of the hair and increase its body.

[20] The amount of the recognition domains to be used according to the present invention depends for example on the condition of the hair, the origin of the hair or the formulation of the hair care product. The amount of the recognition domains may vary from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight.

[21] The neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains from the formulation for cosmetic applications can be selected from a group comprised by:

Hydrolysed proteins

• Fragments or models of the mammal sequence of surfactant proteins

• Biological active peptides

• Synthetic peptides

• Peptides containing cysteine residues

Synthetic protein polymers with a size equal to or less than 30 amino acids [22] Furthermore, the synthetic protein polymers from the formulation for hair care might be a repetitive amino acid sequence with chemical or biological activities or functions.

[23] Additionally, the formulations might contain phospholipids in its composition (as phosphatidylcholine, for example) and the recognition domains might be linked to a chromophore, such as p-aminophenol or p-diaminobenzene, for example.

[24] In the scope of the present invention, the recognition domains could be amino acids with one of the following sequences and their mammal variants, described by the one- letter code which are the symbols commonly used in the art to represent the amino acid residues in peptides.

[25] SEQ ID NO: 1.

LLLLKLLLLKLLLLKLLLLK

SEQ IDNO: 2.

AAAAKAAAAKAAAAKAAAAK

SEQ IDNO: 3.

LLLKLLLKLLLKLLLKLLLK

SEQIDNO: 4.

LLLLL LCLCL LLKAK AK

SEQ ID NO: 5.

KAKAK LLLCL CLLLL LL

SEQ ID NO: 6.

QGQVQ HLQAA FSQYK KVELF PK

SEQ ID NO: 7.

ATLHD FRHQI LQTRG ALSLQ GK

SEQ ID NO: 8.

FPIPL PYCWL CRALI KRIQA NIPKG K [26] Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description. It should be understood, however, that the detailed description and the specific examples, while indicating several preferred embodiments of the invention, are given by way of illustration only, since various changes and modifications within the scope of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description. Description of Preferred Embodiments:

[27] The effect of the recognition domains on the elasticity of hair was studied by measuring the tensile strength of hair. The method used in this study broadly follows the guidelines laid down in ASTM D1445-95 for the tensile testing of fibres. The measurements were done with an Instron 4505 tensile tester machine with a load cell of maximum capacity of 2,5 N. For each measurement, 20 hairs were taken randomly from the tress. Each hair was individually mounted in the tensile jig by means of a paper device that was previously slashed using a fixed gauge length of 20 mm, and pulled under controlled conditions (2O⁰C, 55% humidity), at a rate of 2 mm/min, until breakage occurs. Data were acquired by a computer and for each hair the applied load against extension was recorded. Using an average mean diameter of 75 μm, the data were converted to stress (load/unit area) against strain (% extension).

[28] As keratin fibres, tresses of European virgin blond hair (acquired to IMHAIR,

LTD) were used, that were previously submitted or not to a bleaching pre-treatment. It is considered as virgin hair all hair that was never exposed to or that has been at least for 10 years without undergoing any chemical treatment. The hair was subjected to a bleaching pre-treatment, in order to provide damaged hair samples for this particular application. The process was carried out using all the samples simultaneously, such that they received exactly the same extent of processing. The bleaching pre-treatment was performed using 10% OfH₂O₂ (hydrogen peroxide) by gram of hair, in 0.1 M Na₂ CO₃/NaHCO₃ pH 9 buffer, at 5O⁰C for one hour. After the bleaching pre-treatment, all tresses of hair were washed abundantly with distilled water.

[29] The hair samples that were not pre-treated were simply washed in distilled water, at 5O⁰C for one hour.

Example 1 :

[30] Treatment of European blond hair with hydrophobic peptides:

As example of recognition domains, a solution containing one part of a peptide of structure (XXXXY)₄, in which X is an hydrophobic amino acid and Y is a polar, neutral or basic amino acid, was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine. The peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs_m&: 544 run; Em ^ 572 nm), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair. The hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37°C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time. After the treatment the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water. [31] To evaluate the quality of the hair specimen and the degree of damage caused in the treatment process, tensile strength tests and fluorescence microscopy evaluation were performed. Also, a panel of 5 technicians evaluated the handle and appearance of the hair, verifying that the hair treated this way presented an increase in the smoothness and body appearance, mainly on the lustre and brightness of the hair, relatively to the bleached hair.

Example 2 :

[32] Treatment of European blond hair with SPD^^ :

As example of recognition domains, a solution containing one part of a peptide mimicking the representative structure of the amino acids 215 to 236 of surfactant protein SP-D was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine. The peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs_max: 544 nm; Em _mix: 572 run), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair. The hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37⁰C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time. After the treatment the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.

[33] To evaluate the quality of the hair specimen and the degree of damage caused in the treatment process, tensile strength tests and fluorescence microscopy evaluation were performed. Also, a panel of 5 technicians evaluated the handle and appearance of the hair, verifying that the hair treated this way presented an increase in the smoothness and body appearance, mainly on the lustre and brightness of the hair, relatively to the bleached hair.

Example 3 :

[34]

:

Similar studies were performed using as example of recognition domains a solution containing one part of a peptide mimicking the representative structure of the amino acids 1 to 26 of surfactant protein SP-B that was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine. The peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs_mdx: 544 nm; Em _mέx: 572 nm), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair. The hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37°C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time. After the treatment the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.

[35] To evaluate the quality of the hair specimen and the degree of damage caused in the treatment process, tensile strength tests and fluorescence microscopy evaluation were performed. Also, a panel of 5 technicians evaluated the handle and appearance of the hair, verifying that the hair treated this way did not present any difference when compared to the control sample (untreated hair).

[36] Table 1 . Results obtained to the peptides penetration by fluorescence microscopy, tensile strength resistance, elongation and Young modulus of the European blond hair fibres treated as described in examples 1 to 3, for the same period of time

ΪΈHSILE

PSE - HLUORESCEHCE YOUHG STRE1ΪGTH ELOHGATIOH

TREftTMEHT TRERTMEHT MICROSCOPY MODULUS KESISTEHCE ^

(Wa)

Water washing

Control

Bleaching

Water

Peptides washing from

Example 3

Bleaching

[37] The above table (Table 1) shows the results obtained for the tensile strength resistance tests (mean values) of the European blond hair samples. It is seen that comparing with the control sample (untreated hair), the bleaching pre-treatment induces a significant resistance loss (of about 20%), while the elongation values remain practically unchanged. On the other hand, it is possible to observe in the same table that both tensile strength resistance and elongation are higher for the hair samples treated with the peptides solutions, mainly in bleached (damaged) hair. It seems therefore clear that the recognition domains used are able to prevent the degradation on the hair surface and by that reason the hair treated this way presents a larger elongation period. [38] The penetration of the recognition domains into hair interior was monitored by fluoresce microscopy. It was seen that the peptides ability to penetrate completely into cortex or to be retained at the cuticle layer depends essentially on their composition. The hair tresses treated with the peptides used as recognition domains from example 1 and 2 showed a higher penetration than the hair tresses treated with peptides from example 3. This fact explains the non variance of tensile strength resistance for the hair samples treated as described in example 3.

References [39] [1] Inolex Technical Services Report #11, Cosmetic Effects of Substantive

Proteins. [40] [2] Berdick, M. McDonald, E.G.: Some microtechniques for Hair. J. Soc. Chem., 9:

86-101 (1958). [41] [3] S. Karjala, J. Williamson and A. Karler, J. Soc. Cos. Chem., 17, 513 (1966) -

Studies on the substantivity of Collagen-derived polypeptides to human hair. [42] [4] Curstedt T and Johansson J, New synthetic surfactants - basic science, Biology of the Neonate, 87, 332-337, 2005. [43] [5] Head JF, Mealy TR, McCormack FX, Seaton BA, Crystal structure of trimeric carbohydrate recognition and neck domains of surfactant protein A, The Journal of

Biological Chemistry, 278 (44), 43254-43260, 2003.

Claims

[I] Formulation for cosmetic applications, namely for enhancing the properties of hair and other keratin fibres characterized by having neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains.

[2] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by having also phospholipids in its composition. [3] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are covalently linked to a chromophore. [4] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are hydrolysed proteins. [5] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are fragments or models of the mammal sequence of surfactant proteins. [6] Foπnulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are biological active peptides. [7] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are synthetic peptides. [8] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by that neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are peptides containing cysteine residues. [9] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 1, characterized by having synthetic protein polymers with a size equal to or less than 30 amino acids. [10] Formulation for cosmetic applications, according to claim 9, characterized by that the synthetic protein polymers have a repetitive sequence of amino acids with chemical or biological functions or activities.

[II] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the preceding claims, characterized by promoting the contact of the formulations described in claims 1 to 10 with skin.

[12] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the claims 1 to 10, characterized by being applied to keratin fibres. [13] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the preceding claim, characterized by applying sequentially redox agents and the formulations described in claims 1 to 10. [14] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the claims 1 to 10, characterized by being meant to colouring keratin fibres. [15] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the claims 1 to 10, characterized by being meant to curl keratin fibres.

[16] Utilization of the formulation for cosmetic applications, according to the claims 1 to 10, characterized by being meant to uncurl keratin fibres.