Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C3/00—Brassieres
  • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
  • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
  • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
  • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
  • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting and to an article obtained according to said method.
• Known methods of knitting allow articles of cylindrical symmetry to be produced in one piece.
• Such methods are implemented on circular knitting looms in which the needles are arranged in a crown, the feed wire being oriented perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the knitting and of the needles. Thanks to these methods, it is easy to produce the trunk part of the textile articles, which is substantially cylindrical.
• lingerie articles of the bra type which are relatively asymmetrical, compared to a tubular article, can only be produced in part, on a circular knitting machine, the article then being completed by other patches.
• Certain lingerie articles of the brassiere or “body” type are relatively easy to produce in one piece from a tubular knitted fabric without having to add other pieces.
• the method used to produce this article of lingerie does not allow, for example, to produce a bra with underwire, which can only be obtained by means of a rigid insert which is for example threaded into a gusset lining the cups of the bra.
• a first object of the present invention is to provide a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups. of said article, and said basque being knitted by retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones, for making reinforcements.
• a characteristic of the invention resides in the method of knitting the areas of the basque located directly above said cups which makes it possible to produce beads forming frames. In this way, there is no need to add rigid pieces to form the frames, which allows the article of lingerie to be produced in a single piece ready to wear. Thanks to this process, said articles can be produced at an advantageous cost.
• the quantity of retained meshes is gradually varied, in the direction of the weft, on either side of a central portion of said zones and said retained meshes are released. so as to form a bead whose cross section varies away from said central portion.
• reinforcements are formed whose zones corresponding to the cups have a central portion which is larger and more rigid and which extends on each side while tapering.
• said region of the basque flattens forming a first flexible portion which is extended and which is destined to lean against the lateral part of the trunk of the body and on the other side, a second part adapted to join the area of the basque located opposite the other cap.
• a first part is knitted in which, starting from a first quantity of stitches retained from a first row, said progressively is released retained meshes from the two ends of said first quantity, towards said central portion, up to a second row in which a second quantity of meshes less than said first quantity is retained, and from which said second quantity of meshes is released deductions; and then a second part is knitted in which, from a third quantity of stitches retained from a third row, stitches are progressively hooked on either side of said third quantity, diverging with respect to said portion central, up to a fourth row in which a fourth quantity of meshes greater than said third quantity is retained and from which said fourth quantity of mesh is released.
• two consecutive beads are produced, which advantageously are symmetrical to one another, which makes it possible to produce an even larger and rigid frame with a substantially circular section as will be described. in more detail in the following description.
• retaining hooks are retained before retaining said plurality of contiguous meshes and releasing said attachment meshes after having released said plurality of contiguous meshes .
• the free edge of the basque which corresponds substantially to the start of knitting is retained by the needles by said hooking stitches, while the basque and said zones are knitted.
• the said fibers are released attachment mesh so as to wind said beads in a single element thereby forming the frame.
• said Basque is knitted with at least one additional thread in said areas so as to stiffen them.
• the additional wires which one preferably chooses, more rigid, make it possible to form even more rigid reinforcements.
• a second object of the invention is to provide an article of lingerie knitted in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups of said article, and said basque being knitted in retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes, at least one bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones , to make reinforcements.
• FIG. 1 is a schematic front view of an article of lingerie obtained by the method according to the invention
• - Figure 2 is a partial schematic view of detail of the article shown in Figure 1, during its development
• - Figure 3 is a partial schematic perspective view of a section along lll-lll of the article illustrated in Figure 1.
• Figure 1 illustrates a bra 10 obtained in one piece by a conforming process to the invention and by means of a circular knitting loom of the “SM8” type from the “Santoni” brand.
• the bra 10 has a front part 11 and two lateral parts, 12, 13, each terminated by a free end, 14, 15.
• the two free ends 14, 15 are provided with hooking means to be connected together in the back so as to laterally hold said front portion 11 on the chest.
• the front part 11 comprises two cups, 16, 18 extended by straps 20, 22 connecting said side parts 12, 13 to vertically hold said cups 16, 18. Initially, before the bra 10 is made, the two ends loose were joined together and the article formed a tubular knit. It has been cut according to a known mode of implementation for producing the brassiere 10.
• a lapel, or basque 24 which is knitted according to a process according to the invention and which allows to produce frames 26 located in the areas of the basque 24 bordering the cups 16, 18.
• the basque 24, as illustrated in Figure 1 is formed of a double layer which is shown unfolded in Figure 2 in correspondence.
• Figure 2 there is shown the knitting portion of the Basque 24 corresponding to said areas, the lower part 28 corresponds to the start of knitting and the upper part 30 corresponds to the end of knitting of the Basque 24.
• Knitting is continued on a third length L3 during which, from said first row of meshes 38, the contiguous meshes retained from the first ends 42, 44 of said first quantity of contiguous meshes are gradually released for each of said zones; and this, symmetrically with respect to a central portion 46, up to a second row of stitches 47 identified in Figures 2 and 3.
• the loosening of the stitches has the effect of crossing two portions of knitting.
• said second quantity of retained meshes of the first row 38 is released, so as to cross said first row of mesh 38 across width 12 with the second row of mesh 47 and form a first bead 48 formed of two plies 50, 51.
• This bead has a relatively constant section over a width 12 and it extends in a substantially conical manner on either side up to the width H.
• there is again retained in said zones a second quantity of contiguous stitches of a third row of stitches 52, spaced from one another, over a width 12 and opposite of the second quantity of loosened stitches of the first row of stitches 38.
• a fourth length L4 during which, from said third row of stitches 52, stitches are progressively hooked from the second ends 54, 56 of the second quantity of contiguous stitches, for each of said zones.
• the stitches are hooked progressively symmetrically with respect to the central portion 46, up to a fourth row of stitches 58 identified in Figures 2 and 3.
• the knitting length L4 is substantially equal to L3, so that the quantity of meshes retained in said fourth row of meshes 58 corresponds substantially to said first quantity of meshes and to said width 11.
• ' have added an additional thread, for example PVC in the areas corresponding to the frames when knitting the Basque.
• an additional thread for example PVC
• the Basque portion located between the areas of the Basque 24 forming the frame 26 can be knitted with a particular type of mesh, different from that which is used for the other Basque portions. It is the same for the other parts of the tubular knit in which, in known manner, it is desired to obtain particular aesthetic or mechanical effects.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
• Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
• Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
• Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
• Knitting Machines (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=34385340

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (9)

Families Citing this family (1)

Family Cites Families (12)

• 2003
  • 2003-10-21 FR FR0312285A patent/FR2861096B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2004
  • 2004-10-15 CA CA002524210A patent/CA2524210A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2004-10-15 WO PCT/FR2004/002636 patent/WO2005040472A2/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2004-10-15 JP JP2006536114A patent/JP2007509249A/ja active Pending
  • 2004-10-15 BR BRPI0410048-4A patent/BRPI0410048A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2004-10-15 US US10/566,234 patent/US20060191298A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2004-10-15 EP EP04791547A patent/EP1682709A2/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2004-10-15 RU RU2005134128/12A patent/RU2005134128A/ru not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2004-10-15 CN CN200480013495.6A patent/CN1791712A/zh active Pending

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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