EP1682709A2 - Method for knitting a single-piece lingerie item - Google Patents
Method for knitting a single-piece lingerie itemInfo
- Publication number
- EP1682709A2 EP1682709A2 EP04791547A EP04791547A EP1682709A2 EP 1682709 A2 EP1682709 A2 EP 1682709A2 EP 04791547 A EP04791547 A EP 04791547A EP 04791547 A EP04791547 A EP 04791547A EP 1682709 A2 EP1682709 A2 EP 1682709A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- knitting
- stitches
- retained
- meshes
- basque
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 230000002787 reinforcement Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
- A41C3/00—Brassieres
- A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
- A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting and to an article obtained according to said method.
- Known methods of knitting allow articles of cylindrical symmetry to be produced in one piece.
- Such methods are implemented on circular knitting looms in which the needles are arranged in a crown, the feed wire being oriented perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the knitting and of the needles. Thanks to these methods, it is easy to produce the trunk part of the textile articles, which is substantially cylindrical.
- lingerie articles of the bra type which are relatively asymmetrical, compared to a tubular article, can only be produced in part, on a circular knitting machine, the article then being completed by other patches.
- Certain lingerie articles of the brassiere or “body” type are relatively easy to produce in one piece from a tubular knitted fabric without having to add other pieces.
- the method used to produce this article of lingerie does not allow, for example, to produce a bra with underwire, which can only be obtained by means of a rigid insert which is for example threaded into a gusset lining the cups of the bra.
- a first object of the present invention is to provide a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups. of said article, and said basque being knitted by retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones, for making reinforcements.
- a characteristic of the invention resides in the method of knitting the areas of the basque located directly above said cups which makes it possible to produce beads forming frames. In this way, there is no need to add rigid pieces to form the frames, which allows the article of lingerie to be produced in a single piece ready to wear. Thanks to this process, said articles can be produced at an advantageous cost.
- the quantity of retained meshes is gradually varied, in the direction of the weft, on either side of a central portion of said zones and said retained meshes are released. so as to form a bead whose cross section varies away from said central portion.
- reinforcements are formed whose zones corresponding to the cups have a central portion which is larger and more rigid and which extends on each side while tapering.
- said region of the basque flattens forming a first flexible portion which is extended and which is destined to lean against the lateral part of the trunk of the body and on the other side, a second part adapted to join the area of the basque located opposite the other cap.
- a first part is knitted in which, starting from a first quantity of stitches retained from a first row, said progressively is released retained meshes from the two ends of said first quantity, towards said central portion, up to a second row in which a second quantity of meshes less than said first quantity is retained, and from which said second quantity of meshes is released deductions; and then a second part is knitted in which, from a third quantity of stitches retained from a third row, stitches are progressively hooked on either side of said third quantity, diverging with respect to said portion central, up to a fourth row in which a fourth quantity of meshes greater than said third quantity is retained and from which said fourth quantity of mesh is released.
- two consecutive beads are produced, which advantageously are symmetrical to one another, which makes it possible to produce an even larger and rigid frame with a substantially circular section as will be described. in more detail in the following description.
- retaining hooks are retained before retaining said plurality of contiguous meshes and releasing said attachment meshes after having released said plurality of contiguous meshes .
- the free edge of the basque which corresponds substantially to the start of knitting is retained by the needles by said hooking stitches, while the basque and said zones are knitted.
- the said fibers are released attachment mesh so as to wind said beads in a single element thereby forming the frame.
- said Basque is knitted with at least one additional thread in said areas so as to stiffen them.
- the additional wires which one preferably chooses, more rigid, make it possible to form even more rigid reinforcements.
- a second object of the invention is to provide an article of lingerie knitted in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups of said article, and said basque being knitted in retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes, at least one bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones , to make reinforcements.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic front view of an article of lingerie obtained by the method according to the invention
- - Figure 2 is a partial schematic view of detail of the article shown in Figure 1, during its development
- - Figure 3 is a partial schematic perspective view of a section along lll-lll of the article illustrated in Figure 1.
- Figure 1 illustrates a bra 10 obtained in one piece by a conforming process to the invention and by means of a circular knitting loom of the “SM8” type from the “Santoni” brand.
- the bra 10 has a front part 11 and two lateral parts, 12, 13, each terminated by a free end, 14, 15.
- the two free ends 14, 15 are provided with hooking means to be connected together in the back so as to laterally hold said front portion 11 on the chest.
- the front part 11 comprises two cups, 16, 18 extended by straps 20, 22 connecting said side parts 12, 13 to vertically hold said cups 16, 18. Initially, before the bra 10 is made, the two ends loose were joined together and the article formed a tubular knit. It has been cut according to a known mode of implementation for producing the brassiere 10.
- a lapel, or basque 24 which is knitted according to a process according to the invention and which allows to produce frames 26 located in the areas of the basque 24 bordering the cups 16, 18.
- the basque 24, as illustrated in Figure 1 is formed of a double layer which is shown unfolded in Figure 2 in correspondence.
- Figure 2 there is shown the knitting portion of the Basque 24 corresponding to said areas, the lower part 28 corresponds to the start of knitting and the upper part 30 corresponds to the end of knitting of the Basque 24.
- Knitting is continued on a third length L3 during which, from said first row of meshes 38, the contiguous meshes retained from the first ends 42, 44 of said first quantity of contiguous meshes are gradually released for each of said zones; and this, symmetrically with respect to a central portion 46, up to a second row of stitches 47 identified in Figures 2 and 3.
- the loosening of the stitches has the effect of crossing two portions of knitting.
- said second quantity of retained meshes of the first row 38 is released, so as to cross said first row of mesh 38 across width 12 with the second row of mesh 47 and form a first bead 48 formed of two plies 50, 51.
- This bead has a relatively constant section over a width 12 and it extends in a substantially conical manner on either side up to the width H.
- there is again retained in said zones a second quantity of contiguous stitches of a third row of stitches 52, spaced from one another, over a width 12 and opposite of the second quantity of loosened stitches of the first row of stitches 38.
- a fourth length L4 during which, from said third row of stitches 52, stitches are progressively hooked from the second ends 54, 56 of the second quantity of contiguous stitches, for each of said zones.
- the stitches are hooked progressively symmetrically with respect to the central portion 46, up to a fourth row of stitches 58 identified in Figures 2 and 3.
- the knitting length L4 is substantially equal to L3, so that the quantity of meshes retained in said fourth row of meshes 58 corresponds substantially to said first quantity of meshes and to said width 11.
- ' have added an additional thread, for example PVC in the areas corresponding to the frames when knitting the Basque.
- an additional thread for example PVC
- the Basque portion located between the areas of the Basque 24 forming the frame 26 can be knitted with a particular type of mesh, different from that which is used for the other Basque portions. It is the same for the other parts of the tubular knit in which, in known manner, it is desired to obtain particular aesthetic or mechanical effects.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
- Knitting Machines (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a method for knitting a lingerie item in one single tubular piece of knit fabric, said item being knitted with a midriff band (24), extending along the lower part of the cups (16, 18) of the item. Said method comprises knitting said midriff band (24), while maintaining a plurality of adjacent stitches substantially aligned in relation to the direction of the weft, in the areas facing said cups (16, 18) such as to form at least one ripple substantially parallel to said midriff band (24) in said areas, by releasing said adjacent stitches to form underwires (26).
Description
Procédé de tricotage d'un article de lingerie d'une seule pièce Method for knitting a one-piece lingerie item
La présente invention se rapporte à un procédé de tricotage d'un article de lingerie en une seule pièce de tricot tubulaire et à un article obtenu selon ledit procédé. Des procédés connus de tricotage permettent de réaliser des articles de symétrie cylindrique d'une seule pièce. De tels procédés sont mis en œuvre sur des métiers à tricoter circulaires dans lesquels les aiguilles sont disposées en couronne, le fil d'alimentation étant orienté perpendiculairement à la direction longitudinale du tricot et des aiguilles. Grâce à ces procédés, il est aisé de réaliser la partie de tronc des articles textiles, laquelle est sensiblement cylindrique. En revanche, les articles de lingerie du type soutien-gorge qui sont relativement asymétriques, par rapport à un article tubulaire, ne peuvent être réalisés qu'en partie, sur un métier à tricoter circulaire, l'article étant complété ensuite par d'autres pièces rapportées. Certains articles de lingerie du type brassière ou « body » sont relativement aisés à réaliser d'une seule pièce à partir d'un tricot tubulaire sans avoir à rajouter d'autres pièces. On pourra se référer notamment au document FR 2 783 532, dans lequel il est décrit un article de lingerie présentant deux couches coaxiales séparées par un revers ou une basque et tricoté d'une seule pièce ; la couche intérieure présentant des parties tricotées de manière plus serrée pour former des renforts adaptés à s'ajuster notamment au niveau de la poitrine. Cependant, le procédé mis en œuvre pour réaliser cet article de lingerie ne permet pas, par exemple, de réaliser un soutien-gorge avec armatures, lesquelles ne peuvent être obtenues qu'au moyen d'une pièce rapportée rigide qui est par exemple enfilée dans un gousset bordant les bonnets du soutien-gorge.
Un but de la présente invention est alors de réaliser un article de lingerie en une seule pièce présentant une seule couche, auquel il n'est pas nécessaire de rapporter des pièces rigides pour former des armatures. Dans ce but, un premier objet de la présente invention est de proposer un procédé de tricotage d'un article de lingerie en une seule pièce de tricot tubulaire, ledit article étant tricoté avec une basque qui s'étend en bordant la partie inférieure des bonnets dudit article, et ladite basque étant tricotée en retenant une pluralité de mailles contiguës sensiblement alignées par rapport à la direction de la trame, dans les zones situées en regard desdits bonnets dudit article de façon à former, en relâchant lesdites mailles contiguës, au moins un bourrelet sensiblement parallèle à ladite basque dans lesdites zones, pour réaliser des armatures. Ainsi, une caractéristique de l'invention réside dans le mode de tricotage des zones de la basque situées à l'aplomb desdits bonnets qui permet de réaliser des bourrelets formant armatures. De la sorte, il n'est nul besoin de rajouter des pièces rigides pour former les armatures, ce qui permet de réaliser l'article de lingerie d'une seule pièce prêt à porter. Grâce à ce procédé, lesdits articles sont susceptibles d'être produits à un coût avantageux. Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention particulièrement avantageux, on fait varier progressivement la quantité de mailles retenues, dans la direction de la trame, de part et d'autre d'une portion centrale desdites zones et on relâche lesdites mailles retenues de façon à former un bourrelet dont la section varie en s'éloignant de ladite portion centrale. De la sorte, on forme des armatures dont les zones correspondant aux bonnets présentent une portion centrale plus volumineuse et plus rigide et qui s'étend de chaque côté en s'amenuisant. Ainsi, comme on l'expliquera plus en détail dans la suite de la description, d'un côté en s'écartant de la portion centrale, ladite zone de la basque s'aplatit en formant une première partie flexible qui se prolonge et qui est destinée à
prendre appui contre la partie latérale du tronc du corps et de l'autre côté, une seconde partie adaptée à rejoindre la zone de la basque située en regard de l'autre bonnet. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention conforme au précédent mode de mise en œuvre, on tricote d'abord une première partie dans laquelle, à partir d'une première quantité de mailles retenues d'une première rangée, on relâche progressivement lesdites mailles retenues en partant des deux extrémités de ladite première quantité, vers ladite portion centrale, jusqu'à une deuxième rangée dans laquelle on retient une deuxième quantité de mailles inférieure à ladite première quantité, et à partir de laquelle on relâche ladite deuxième quantité de mailles retenues ; et, on tricote ensuite une seconde partie dans laquelle, à partir d'une troisième quantité de mailles retenues d'une troisième rangée, on accroche progressivement de part et d'autre de ladite troisième quantité, des mailles en divergeant par rapport à ladite portion centrale, jusqu'à une quantième rangée dans laquelle on retient une quatrième quantité de mailles supérieure à ladite troisième quantité et à partir de laquelle on relâche ladite quatrième quantité de maille. Ainsi, grâce à ce mode particulier de réalisation, on réalise deux bourrelets consécutifs, qui avantageusement, sont symétriques l'un de l'autre, ce qui permet de réaliser une armature encore plus volumineuse et rigide avec une section sensiblement circulaire comme on le décrira plus en détail dans la suite de la description. Afin d'enrouler le ou les bourrelets pour former l'armature, de façon particulièrement avantageuse, on retient des mailles d'accrochage avant de retenir ladite pluralité de mailles contiguës et on relâche lesdites mailles d'accrochage après avoir relâché ladite pluralité de mailles contiguës. De la sorte, le bord libre de la basque qui correspond sensiblement au démarrage du tricotage est retenu aux aiguilles par lesdites mailles d'accrochage, tandis que la basque et lesdites zones sont tricotées. Après que les bourrelets ont été réalisés, on libère lesdites
mailles d'accrochage de façon à enrouler lesdits bourrelets dans un seul élément en formant ainsi l'armature. De manière préférentielle, on tricote ladite basque avec au moins un fil supplémentaire dans lesdites zones de façon à les rigidifier. Ainsi, en plus du relief qui est donné à la basque dans lesdites zones, les fils supplémentaires que l'on choisit de préférence, plus rigides, permettent de former des armatures encore plus rigides. Un second objet de l'invention est de proposer un article de lingerie tricoté en une seule pièce de tricot tubulaire, ledit article étant tricoté avec une basque qui s'étend en bordant la partie inférieure des bonnets dudit article, et ladite basque étant tricotée en retenant une pluralité de mailles contiguës sensiblement alignées par rapport à la direction de la trame, dans les zones situées en regard desdits bonnets dudit article de façon à former, en relâchant lesdites mailles contiguës, au moins un bourrelet sensiblement parallèle à ladite basque dans lesdites zones, pour réaliser des armatures. D'autres particularités et avantages de l'invention ressortiront à la lecture de la description faite ci-après de modes de réalisation particuliers de l'invention, donnés à titre indicatif mais non limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés sur lesquels : - la Figure 1 est une vue schématique de face d'un article de lingerie obtenu par le procédé conforme à l'invention ; - la Figure 2 est une vue schématique partielle de détail de l'article représenté sur la Figure 1 , au cours de son élaboration ; et, - la Figure 3 est une vue schématique partielle en perspective d'une coupe selon lll-lll de l'article illustré sur la Figure 1. La Figure 1 illustre un soutien-gorge 10 obtenu d'une seule pièce par un procédé conforme à l'invention et au moyen d'un métier à tricoter circulaire du type « SM8 » de la marque « Santoni ». Ce type de métier à tricoter est bien connu et il permet déjà de réaliser des articles « haut du corps » du type « body », « top » ou brassière ne présentant aucune armature.
Le soutien-gorge 10 présente une partie avant 11 et deux parties latérales, 12, 13, terminées chacune par une extrémité libre, 14, 15. Les deux extrémités libres 14, 15 sont munies de moyens d'accrochage pour être reliées ensemble dans le dos de façon à maintenir latéralement ladite partie avant 11 sur la poitrine. La partie avant 11 comporte deux bonnets, 16, 18 prolongés par des bretelles 20, 22 reliant lesdites parties latérales 12, 13 pour maintenir verticalement lesdits bonnets 16, 18. Initialement, avant que le soutien-gorge 10 ne soit confectionné, les deux extrémités libres étaient reliées ensemble et l'article formait un tricot tubulaire. Il a été découpé selon un mode de mise en œuvre connu pour réaliser le soutien-gorge 10. En revanche, il présente dans sa partie inférieure un revers, ou basque 24, qui est tricoté selon un procédé conforme à l'invention et qui permet de réaliser des armatures 26 situées dans les zones de la basque 24 bordant les bonnets 16, 18. La basque 24, telle qu'illustrée sur la Figure 1 est formée d'une double couche qui est représentée dépliée sur la Figure 2 en correspondance. Sur la Figure 2, on a représenté la partie de tricot de la basque 24 correspondant auxdites zones, la partie inférieure 28 correspond au démarrage du tricotage et la partie supérieure 30 correspond à la fin du tricotage de la basque 24. On décrira le procédé de tricotage conforme à l'invention en référence à la Figure 2 et à la Figure 3 sur laquelle la partie inférieure 28 de la basque 24 correspond à la première rangée de mailles 32 et la partie supérieure 30 de la basque 24 correspond à une rangée intermédiaire de mailles 34. On commence par tricoter sur le métier circulaire décrit ci-dessus, à partir de la rangée initiale de mailles 32 une première longueur de la basque 24 correspondant à quelques rangées de maille puis on retient des mailles régulièrement espacées l'une de l'autre sur toute la circonférence de la basque que l'on ne libérera qu'après avoir tricoté
entièrement la basque 24 de façon, comme on l'expliquera dans la suite de la description, à replier le tricot sur lui-même. Une maille retenue 36 permettant ce repli est illustrée sur la Figure 3. On tricote ensuite une deuxième longueur jusqu'à une première rangée de mailles 38 illustrée sur la Figure 3 et sur la Figure 2, et à partir de laquelle on retient une première quantité de mailles contiguës, régulièrement espacées l'une de l'autre, sur une largeur 11 correspondant aux zones destinées à border la partie inférieure des bonnets 16, 18. On poursuit le tricotage sur une troisième longueur L3 durant laquelle, à partir de ladite première rangée de mailles 38, on relâche progressivement les mailles contiguës retenues à partir des premières extrémités 42, 44 de ladite première quantité de mailles contiguës, pour chacune desdites zones ; et ce, de manière symétrique par rapport à une portion centrale 46, jusqu'à une deuxième rangée de mailles 47 repérées sur les Figures 2 et 3. Le relâchement des mailles a pour effet de croiser deux portions de tricot. Après avoir tricoté ladite troisième longueur L3, une deuxième quantité de mailles retenues inférieure à la première correspond à une largeur 12, centrée par rapport à 11 , pour chacune des zones. A partir de cette troisième longueur L3, on relâche ladite deuxième quantité de mailles retenues de la première rangée 38, de façon à croiser ladite première rangée de maille 38 sur la largeur 12 avec la deuxième rangée de maille 47 et former un premier bourrelet 48 constitué de deux plis 50, 51. Ce bourrelet présente une section relativement constante sur une largeur 12 et il se prolonge de façon sensiblement conique de part et d'autre jusqu'à la largeur H . Ensuite, après avoir tricoté au moins une rangée de mailles, on retient à nouveau dans lesdites zones une deuxième quantité de mailles contiguës d'une troisième rangée de maille 52, espacées l'une de l'autre, sur une largeur 12 et en regard de la deuxième quantité de mailles relâchées de la première rangée de mailles 38.
Puis, de manière symétrique on poursuit le tricotage sur une quatrième longueur L4 durant laquelle, à partir de ladite troisième rangée de mailles 52, on accroche progressivement des mailles à partir des deuxièmes extrémités 54, 56 de la deuxième quantité de mailles contiguës, pour chacune desdites zones. Comme pour le tricotage de la longueur L3, on accroche progressivement les mailles de manière symétrique par rapport à la portion centrale 46, jusqu'à une quatrième rangée de mailles 58 repérées sur les Figures 2 et 3. En outre, la longueur de tricot L4 est sensiblement égale à L3, de sorte que la quantité de mailles retenues dans ladite quatrième rangée de mailles 58 correspond sensiblement à ladite première quantité de mailles et à ladite largeur 11. De façon symétrique, on relâche alors ladite deuxième quantité de mailles retenues de la troisième rangée 52 et toutes les autres mailles retenues jusqu'à la quatrième rangée 58 durant le tricotage de la longueur L4, de façon à les croiser avec les mailles de la quatrième rangée 58 sur une largeur correspondant sensiblement à la largeur 11. On forme ainsi un second bourrelet totalement symétrique du premier dans le sens de la trame et présentant deux plis 60, 62. On tricote ensuite une cinquième longueur L5 illustrée sur la FigureThe present invention relates to a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting and to an article obtained according to said method. Known methods of knitting allow articles of cylindrical symmetry to be produced in one piece. Such methods are implemented on circular knitting looms in which the needles are arranged in a crown, the feed wire being oriented perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the knitting and of the needles. Thanks to these methods, it is easy to produce the trunk part of the textile articles, which is substantially cylindrical. On the other hand, lingerie articles of the bra type which are relatively asymmetrical, compared to a tubular article, can only be produced in part, on a circular knitting machine, the article then being completed by other patches. Certain lingerie articles of the brassiere or “body” type are relatively easy to produce in one piece from a tubular knitted fabric without having to add other pieces. Reference may be made in particular to document FR 2 783 532, in which there is described an article of lingerie having two coaxial layers separated by a cuff or a basque and knitted in one piece; the inner layer having parts knitted more tightly to form reinforcements adapted to fit in particular at the level of the chest. However, the method used to produce this article of lingerie does not allow, for example, to produce a bra with underwire, which can only be obtained by means of a rigid insert which is for example threaded into a gusset lining the cups of the bra. An object of the present invention is then to produce a lingerie article in a single piece having a single layer, to which it is not necessary to add rigid pieces to form frames. For this purpose, a first object of the present invention is to provide a method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups. of said article, and said basque being knitted by retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones, for making reinforcements. Thus, a characteristic of the invention resides in the method of knitting the areas of the basque located directly above said cups which makes it possible to produce beads forming frames. In this way, there is no need to add rigid pieces to form the frames, which allows the article of lingerie to be produced in a single piece ready to wear. Thanks to this process, said articles can be produced at an advantageous cost. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the quantity of retained meshes is gradually varied, in the direction of the weft, on either side of a central portion of said zones and said retained meshes are released. so as to form a bead whose cross section varies away from said central portion. In this way, reinforcements are formed whose zones corresponding to the cups have a central portion which is larger and more rigid and which extends on each side while tapering. Thus, as will be explained in more detail in the following description, on one side away from the central portion, said region of the basque flattens forming a first flexible portion which is extended and which is destined to lean against the lateral part of the trunk of the body and on the other side, a second part adapted to join the area of the basque located opposite the other cap. According to a particular embodiment of the invention in accordance with the previous embodiment, a first part is knitted in which, starting from a first quantity of stitches retained from a first row, said progressively is released retained meshes from the two ends of said first quantity, towards said central portion, up to a second row in which a second quantity of meshes less than said first quantity is retained, and from which said second quantity of meshes is released deductions; and then a second part is knitted in which, from a third quantity of stitches retained from a third row, stitches are progressively hooked on either side of said third quantity, diverging with respect to said portion central, up to a fourth row in which a fourth quantity of meshes greater than said third quantity is retained and from which said fourth quantity of mesh is released. Thus, thanks to this particular embodiment, two consecutive beads are produced, which advantageously are symmetrical to one another, which makes it possible to produce an even larger and rigid frame with a substantially circular section as will be described. in more detail in the following description. In order to wind up the bead (s) to form the reinforcement, in a particularly advantageous manner, retaining hooks are retained before retaining said plurality of contiguous meshes and releasing said attachment meshes after having released said plurality of contiguous meshes . In this way, the free edge of the basque which corresponds substantially to the start of knitting is retained by the needles by said hooking stitches, while the basque and said zones are knitted. After the beads have been produced, the said fibers are released attachment mesh so as to wind said beads in a single element thereby forming the frame. Preferably, said Basque is knitted with at least one additional thread in said areas so as to stiffen them. Thus, in addition to the relief which is given to the Basque in said zones, the additional wires which one preferably chooses, more rigid, make it possible to form even more rigid reinforcements. A second object of the invention is to provide an article of lingerie knitted in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups of said article, and said basque being knitted in retaining a plurality of contiguous meshes substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the zones located opposite said cups of said article so as to form, by releasing said contiguous meshes, at least one bead substantially parallel to said basque in said zones , to make reinforcements. Other particularities and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the description given below of particular embodiments of the invention, given by way of indication but not limitation, with reference to the appended drawings in which: - Figure 1 is a schematic front view of an article of lingerie obtained by the method according to the invention; - Figure 2 is a partial schematic view of detail of the article shown in Figure 1, during its development; and, - Figure 3 is a partial schematic perspective view of a section along lll-lll of the article illustrated in Figure 1. Figure 1 illustrates a bra 10 obtained in one piece by a conforming process to the invention and by means of a circular knitting loom of the “SM8” type from the “Santoni” brand. This type of knitting loom is well known and it already makes it possible to produce “upper body” articles of the “body”, “top” or brassiere type having no reinforcement. The bra 10 has a front part 11 and two lateral parts, 12, 13, each terminated by a free end, 14, 15. The two free ends 14, 15 are provided with hooking means to be connected together in the back so as to laterally hold said front portion 11 on the chest. The front part 11 comprises two cups, 16, 18 extended by straps 20, 22 connecting said side parts 12, 13 to vertically hold said cups 16, 18. Initially, before the bra 10 is made, the two ends loose were joined together and the article formed a tubular knit. It has been cut according to a known mode of implementation for producing the brassiere 10. On the other hand, it has in its lower part a lapel, or basque 24, which is knitted according to a process according to the invention and which allows to produce frames 26 located in the areas of the basque 24 bordering the cups 16, 18. The basque 24, as illustrated in Figure 1 is formed of a double layer which is shown unfolded in Figure 2 in correspondence. In Figure 2, there is shown the knitting portion of the Basque 24 corresponding to said areas, the lower part 28 corresponds to the start of knitting and the upper part 30 corresponds to the end of knitting of the Basque 24. We will describe the method of knitting according to the invention with reference to FIG. 2 and to FIG. 3 in which the lower part 28 of the basque 24 corresponds to the first row of stitches 32 and the upper part 30 of the basque 24 corresponds to an intermediate row of 34 stitches. We start by knitting on the circular loom described above, starting from the initial row of stitches 32 a first length of the basque 24 corresponding to a few rows of stitches then we retain stitches regularly spaced one of the other on the entire circumference of the Basque which will only be released after knitting fully the basque 24 so as, as will be explained in the following description, to fold the knit on itself. A retained stitch 36 allowing this folding is illustrated in FIG. 3. A second length is then knitted up to a first row of stitches 38 illustrated in FIG. 3 and in FIG. 2, and from which a first quantity is retained contiguous stitches, regularly spaced from each other, over a width 11 corresponding to the zones intended to border the lower part of the cups 16, 18. Knitting is continued on a third length L3 during which, from said first row of meshes 38, the contiguous meshes retained from the first ends 42, 44 of said first quantity of contiguous meshes are gradually released for each of said zones; and this, symmetrically with respect to a central portion 46, up to a second row of stitches 47 identified in Figures 2 and 3. The loosening of the stitches has the effect of crossing two portions of knitting. After knitting said third length L3, a second quantity of stitches retained that is less than the first corresponds to a width 12, centered with respect to 11, for each of the zones. From this third length L3, said second quantity of retained meshes of the first row 38 is released, so as to cross said first row of mesh 38 across width 12 with the second row of mesh 47 and form a first bead 48 formed of two plies 50, 51. This bead has a relatively constant section over a width 12 and it extends in a substantially conical manner on either side up to the width H. Then, after having knitted at least one row of stitches, there is again retained in said zones a second quantity of contiguous stitches of a third row of stitches 52, spaced from one another, over a width 12 and opposite of the second quantity of loosened stitches of the first row of stitches 38. Then, in a symmetrical manner, knitting is continued on a fourth length L4 during which, from said third row of stitches 52, stitches are progressively hooked from the second ends 54, 56 of the second quantity of contiguous stitches, for each of said zones. As for the knitting of the length L3, the stitches are hooked progressively symmetrically with respect to the central portion 46, up to a fourth row of stitches 58 identified in Figures 2 and 3. In addition, the knitting length L4 is substantially equal to L3, so that the quantity of meshes retained in said fourth row of meshes 58 corresponds substantially to said first quantity of meshes and to said width 11. Symmetrically, said second quantity of meshes retained from the third row 52 and all the other stitches retained up to the fourth row 58 during the knitting of the length L4, so as to cross them with the stitches of the fourth row 58 over a width corresponding substantially to the width 11. We thus form a second bead completely symmetrical to the first in the direction of the weft and having two pleats 60, 62. Then knit a fifth length r L5 illustrated in Figure
3, puis on relâche lesdites mailles retenues, correspondant à la maille 36 illustrée sur la Figure 3 et qui sont régulièrement espacées sur toute la circonférence de la basque 24. De la sorte, d'une part on forme des armatures 26 dans les zones de la basque 24 destinés à border les bonnets 16, 18 où les bourrelets ont été réalisés et que l'on visualise en coupe sur la Figure 3, et d'autre part, on forme deux plis appliqués l'un contre l'autre dans les parties latérales de la basque 24. Après la basque 24, le tricotage est poursuivi pour réaliser de manière classique, les bonnets 16, 18 et les autres éléments du soutien- gorge.
De façon particulièrement avantageuse, on utilise des fils de polyamide et des fils d'elasthanne guipés polyamide pour réaliser le soutien-gorge selon l'invention. En outre, selon un mode de mise en oeuvre particulièrement avantageux,' ont ajoute un fil supplémentaire, par exemple en PVC dans les zones correspondant aux armatures lorsqu'on tricote la basque. De la sorte, les armatures ainsi formées sont encore plus rigides. Par ailleurs, la portion de basque située entre les zones de la basque 24 formant armature 26 est susceptible d'être tricotée avec un type de maille particulier, différent de celui qui est utilisé pour les autres portions de basque. Il en est de même pour les autres parties du tricot tubulaire dans lesquelles, de manière connue, on souhaite obtenir des effets esthétiques ou mécaniques particuliers.
3, then the said retained meshes are released, corresponding to the mesh 36 illustrated in FIG. 3 and which are regularly spaced over the entire circumference of the Basque 24. In this way, on the one hand, reinforcements 26 are formed in the areas of the basque 24 intended to border the cups 16, 18 where the beads have been made and which we see in section in Figure 3, and on the other hand, we form two folds applied against each other in the lateral parts of the basque 24. After the basque 24, the knitting is continued in order to produce, in a conventional manner, the cups 16, 18 and the other elements of the brassiere. In a particularly advantageous manner, polyamide threads and polyamide wrapped elastane threads are used to make the brassiere according to the invention. In addition, according to a particularly advantageous embodiment, ' have added an additional thread, for example PVC in the areas corresponding to the frames when knitting the Basque. In this way, the reinforcements thus formed are even more rigid. Furthermore, the Basque portion located between the areas of the Basque 24 forming the frame 26 can be knitted with a particular type of mesh, different from that which is used for the other Basque portions. It is the same for the other parts of the tubular knit in which, in known manner, it is desired to obtain particular aesthetic or mechanical effects.
Claims
1. Procédé de tricotage d'un article de lingerie en une seule pièce de tricot tubulaire, ledit article étant tricoté avec une basque (24) qui s'étend en bordant la partie inférieure des bonnets (16, 18) dudit article, caractérisé en ce qu'on tricote ladite basque (24) en retenant une pluralité de mailles contiguës sensiblement alignées par rapport à la direction de la trame, dans les zones situées en regard desdits bonnets (16, 18) dudit article de façon à former, en relâchant lesdites mailles contiguës, au moins un bourrelet sensiblement parallèle à ladite basque (24) dans lesdites zones, pour réaliser des armatures (26). 1. A method of knitting an article of lingerie in a single piece of tubular knitting, said article being knitted with a basque (24) which extends by bordering the lower part of the cups (16, 18) of said article, characterized in knitting said Basque (24) by retaining a plurality of contiguous stitches substantially aligned with respect to the direction of the weft, in the areas opposite said cups (16, 18) of said article so as to form, by loosening said contiguous meshes, at least one bead substantially parallel to said basque (24) in said zones, to produce reinforcements (26).
2. Procédé de tricotage selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce qu'on fait varier progressivement la quantité de mailles retenues, dans la direction de la trame, de part et d'autre d'une portion centrale (46) desdites zones et en ce qu'on relâche lesdites mailles retenues de façon à former un bourrelet dont la section varie en s'éloignant de ladite portion centrale (46). 2. knitting method according to claim 1, characterized in that the quantity of retained stitches is varied gradually, in the direction of the weft, on either side of a central portion (46) of said zones and in that said retained meshes are released so as to form a bead whose cross section varies away from said central portion (46).
3. Procédé de tricotage selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : - on tricote une première partie dans laquelle, à partir d'une première quantité de mailles retenues d'une première rangée (38), on relâche progressivement lesdites mailles retenues en partant des deux extrémités (42, 44) de ladite première quantité, vers ladite portion centrale (46), jusqu'à une deuxième rangée (47) dans laquelle on retient une deuxième quantité de mailles inférieure à ladite première quantité, et à partir de laquelle on relâche ladite deuxième quantité de mailles retenues ; et , - on tricote une seconde partie dans laquelle, à partir d'une troisième quantité de mailles retenues d'une troisième rangée (52), on accroche progressivement de part et d'autre de ladite troisième quantité, des mailles en divergeant par rapport à ladite portion centrale (46), jusqu'à une quantième rangée (58) dans laquelle on retient une quatrième quantité de mailles supérieure à ladite troisième quantité et à partir de laquelle on relâche ladite quatrième quantité de maille. 3. knitting method according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - a first part is knitted in which, from a first quantity of stitches retained from a first row (38), progressively relaxes said retained meshes from the two ends (42, 44) of said first quantity, towards said central portion (46), to a second row (47) in which a second quantity of meshes less than said first is retained quantity, and from which said second quantity of retained meshes is released; and, - a second part is knitted in which, from a third quantity of stitches retained from a third row (52), stitches are progressively hooked on either side of said third quantity, diverging from to said central portion (46), up to a fourth row (58) in which a fourth is retained quantity of meshes greater than said third quantity and from which said fourth quantity of mesh is released.
4. Procédé de tricotage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'on retient des mailles d'accrochage avant de retenir ladite pluralité de mailles et en ce qu'on relâche lesdites mailles d'accrochage après avoir relâché lesdites mailles contiguës pour enrouler ledit bourrelet. 4. A knitting method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that retaining hooking stitches before retaining said plurality of stitches and in that said catching stitches are released after having released said contiguous meshes for winding said bead.
5. Procédé de tricotage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'on tricote ladite basque (24) avec au moins un fil supplémentaire dans lesdites zones de façon à les rigidifier. 5. A knitting method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said Basque (24) is knitted with at least one additional yarn in said areas so as to stiffen them.
6. Article de lingerie du type soutien-gorge, caractérisé en ce qu'il est obtenu par un procédé de tricotage selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5. 6. An article of lingerie of the bra type, characterized in that it is obtained by a knitting process according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0312285A FR2861096B1 (en) | 2003-10-21 | 2003-10-21 | METHOD FOR KNITTING A LINGERIE ARTICLE OF A SINGLE PIECE |
PCT/FR2004/002636 WO2005040472A2 (en) | 2003-10-21 | 2004-10-15 | Method for knitting a single-piece lingerie item |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1682709A2 true EP1682709A2 (en) | 2006-07-26 |
Family
ID=34385340
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP04791547A Withdrawn EP1682709A2 (en) | 2003-10-21 | 2004-10-15 | Method for knitting a single-piece lingerie item |
Country Status (9)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20060191298A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP1682709A2 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2007509249A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1791712A (en) |
BR (1) | BRPI0410048A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2524210A1 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2861096B1 (en) |
RU (1) | RU2005134128A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2005040472A2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP6452216B1 (en) * | 2018-02-02 | 2019-01-16 | 株式会社ニットファクター・ヒライ | Non-sewn knit innerwear and manufacturing method thereof |
Family Cites Families (12)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3772899A (en) * | 1970-03-04 | 1973-11-20 | G Novi | Seamless brassieres and brassiere blanks |
US4531525A (en) * | 1983-11-25 | 1985-07-30 | Richards Mark S | Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products |
FR2647816B1 (en) * | 1989-06-05 | 1992-02-21 | Devanlay Sa | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A TEXTILE PRODUCT WITH ANNULAR STRUCTURE |
US5592836A (en) * | 1994-05-03 | 1997-01-14 | Alba-Waldensian, Inc. | Circularly knit brassiere having knit-in-lift and support panels, and a blank and method for making same |
US5669247A (en) * | 1996-08-28 | 1997-09-23 | Guilford Mills, Inc. | Underwire brassiere, warp knitted textile fabric for use in fabricating same, and method of warp knitting such fabric |
IT1292201B1 (en) * | 1997-06-25 | 1999-01-25 | Santoni Srl | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF KNITTED ARTICLES, PARTICULARLY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF UNDERWEAR KNITWEAR, WITH PASSAGE FOR |
FR2783532B1 (en) * | 1998-09-18 | 2001-02-02 | Dim Sa | ARTICLE OF LINGERIE IN KNITTED DOUBLE SINGLE BODY |
ITCO20000014A1 (en) * | 2000-06-09 | 2001-12-09 | Franco Sciacca | METHOD AND EQUIPMENT TO PRODUCE TUBULAR KNIT ITEMS THROUGH THE UNLOADING AND RETURNING OF SHIRTS ALSO PLANNED WITH NEEDLE AND WASTE |
ITCO20000018A1 (en) * | 2000-07-10 | 2002-01-10 | Franco Sciacca | METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF TUBULAR KNIT ITEMS WITH THREE-DIMENSIONAL KNIT ZONES SUITABLE TO PRODUCE AND ACCENTUATE CONFORMATION THE |
US6685535B2 (en) * | 2002-03-07 | 2004-02-03 | Sara Lee Corporation | Graduated cup and method of making same |
GB2386382B (en) * | 2002-03-13 | 2005-09-07 | Dim Sa | Seamless bra |
US6863589B2 (en) * | 2003-04-03 | 2005-03-08 | Sara Lee Corporation | Tube brassiere and method of making |
-
2003
- 2003-10-21 FR FR0312285A patent/FR2861096B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2004
- 2004-10-15 JP JP2006536114A patent/JP2007509249A/en active Pending
- 2004-10-15 CA CA002524210A patent/CA2524210A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2004-10-15 US US10/566,234 patent/US20060191298A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2004-10-15 WO PCT/FR2004/002636 patent/WO2005040472A2/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2004-10-15 RU RU2005134128/12A patent/RU2005134128A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2004-10-15 BR BRPI0410048-4A patent/BRPI0410048A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2004-10-15 EP EP04791547A patent/EP1682709A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2004-10-15 CN CN200480013495.6A patent/CN1791712A/en active Pending
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
See references of WO2005040472A3 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2005040472A3 (en) | 2005-07-14 |
BRPI0410048A (en) | 2006-04-25 |
CA2524210A1 (en) | 2005-05-06 |
RU2005134128A (en) | 2006-06-10 |
FR2861096A1 (en) | 2005-04-22 |
JP2007509249A (en) | 2007-04-12 |
CN1791712A (en) | 2006-06-21 |
US20060191298A1 (en) | 2006-08-31 |
FR2861096B1 (en) | 2006-01-13 |
WO2005040472A2 (en) | 2005-05-06 |
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