EP0927523A1 - Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production - Google Patents

Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0927523A1
EP0927523A1 EP97118355A EP97118355A EP0927523A1 EP 0927523 A1 EP0927523 A1 EP 0927523A1 EP 97118355 A EP97118355 A EP 97118355A EP 97118355 A EP97118355 A EP 97118355A EP 0927523 A1 EP0927523 A1 EP 0927523A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
reed
different
warps
insert according
fixing insert
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP97118355A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Hans Jürgen Preuss
Gerhard Thoenissen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hansel Textil & Co GmbH
Original Assignee
Hansel Textil & Co GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hansel Textil & Co GmbH filed Critical Hansel Textil & Co GmbH
Priority to EP97118355A priority Critical patent/EP0927523A1/fr
Publication of EP0927523A1 publication Critical patent/EP0927523A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a woven textile chain-graded, in the garment to be processed rotated by 90 ° from the weaving direction Fixing insert as well as a method and a device their manufacture.
  • Textile fixing inlays are glued interlinings. It deals are textile fabrics on one or both sides an adhesive is applied.
  • the fixing insert comes with another textile fabric, e.g. an outer fabric of a garment permanently glued to a laminate and is intended to have certain usage properties of the outer fabric of the garment guarantee.
  • tissue inserts primarily can be used for front fixation of women's outer clothing are.
  • these substrates should not only stabilize, stiffen, shape and fill, but also lightweight and be soft.
  • an insert of an outer garment is said to be in three zones, namely in the shoulder / chest, transition and Lap area look different.
  • For lightweight Deposits are usually multilayered using double fixation or multi-layer, e.g. built up in the shoulder / chest area. Such a differentiation to meet the Tasks of lightweight deposits in different Areas requires substantial inventory and high Workload and is particularly cost-intensive. It can also this multi-layer insert does not optimally follow the movements, e.g.
  • the stretching and shrinking adjust or adjust the outer fabric and creates in particular insofar problems with wearing and cleaning the garment with organic solvents, while the various Types of fabrics, especially types of outer fabrics, different, e.g. make irreversible movements.
  • New pollution control regulations are pushing the dry cleaning more and more in the background. Required is the possibility of full cleaning of women and women Men's outerwear in e.g. Household washing machines with mainly water or the more and more wet cleaning used on a commercial basis. There are no outerwear for this yet, sufficient with regard to the fixing insert are harmonized with shrinkage.
  • the woven multi-area insoles thus enable one more rational and cost-effective production and use of the Deposits and significant material savings in manufacturing and when cutting; but they cannot go further desired properties, such as the washability and the sufficiently correspond to elastic compliance.
  • Rustled Multi-area insoles can have further properties, such as. Ensure elasticity, but do not allow inexpensive Manufacturing and material savings in manufacturing; they also create problems with washing because they don't either are sufficiently shrinkable or adaptable.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a woven multi-area insert create that multifunctional and accordingly especially for elastic and / or light outer fabrics can be used and the processing with the outer fabric, namely when fixing with the fixation shrink, during air conditioning or during normal cooling with the relaxation shrink, when steaming or ironing with the steam shrink, when wearing the clothes with those taking place
  • Dimensional changes and when cleaning or washing follow the dimensional changes that occur harmoniously can, i.e. that does not react significantly differently than the outer fabric itself.
  • the insert should in particular compress and be stretchable and stabilize the outer fabric in its dimensions, but soft, voluminous and easy to return his.
  • a web technology was selected that is very easy to carry out.
  • the so-called plack area not different yarn material, but uniform yarn, eg the same raw materials, is used.
  • These are, for example, commercially available yarn materials made of man-made fibers, in particular synthetic man-made fibers (man-made fibers are divided into synthetic fibers and cellulosic fibers).
  • Novel yarns made of multicomponent staple fibers are also preferably used (described, for example, in DE 196 44 111.0-26 A1).
  • the production of the interlining fabrics according to the invention on weaving machines is particularly cost-effective in comparison to shaved multi-range interlinings which are produced on warp knitting machines with weft insertion.
  • the multi-functional multi-area insert according to the invention can also be produced in black with black yarns or spun threads.
  • insert types can be produced in the weight classes n lap / plack 50/80 g / m 2 , 70/95 g / m 2 , 90/115 g / m 2 .
  • a zonally different weight, uniformly made of multi-layered interlining made of fully synthetic yarns, with continuous in the warp the same or uniform yarn, i.e. no different yarns and the same or uniform yarn throughout the weft is used.
  • the same can be done in the warp and in the weft Yarn or a different yarn in the warp than used in the weft his.
  • the insert fabric according to the invention has a zonal one different weave density. This different density or the different weight is used to produce a higher one Density preferably through regular multi-thread sheet feed and / or irregular and / or multi-thread sheet feed and / or generated with graded reeds.
  • With appropriate Number of heald frames and partial warp beams if any e.g. the trigger voltage is controlled electronically, too multi-ligament tissues, i.e. different types of bonds within a fabric web.
  • Fully synthetic polyester yarns are preferably used (PES yarns), and / or polyamide yarns (PA yarns). Doing so for plain yarns in the warp and weft directions Textured yarn types used for elastic inserts. Textured Yarns are known to be crimped thermoplastic filament yarns from continuous chemical fibers.
  • these yarns are used in the invention as warp and / or Shot material used.
  • Another special yarn variant for the invention are endless Multi-component filament yarn. Via a special process the yarn manufacturer achieves a pleasant, fibrous feel and Volume and roughness for the insert.
  • Another selected yarn variant are multi-component spun yarns.
  • Spinning fiber fiber of limited length (DIN 60000, 01.69)).
  • ring, open end or similar spinning process a yarn is produced which is made by mixing e.g. thermal stable with shrinking polyester fibers after a novel Finishing process an elastic yarn or fixation insert material enables.
  • Such yarns are extraordinarly roughened and through the possibility of mixing e.g. Polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, Viscose, cotton and wool meet all requirements the insert is customizable.
  • Typical titers for the individual fibers of these Raw materials are 0.5 to 12 dtex.
  • the inserts should be elastic in the warp direction and in the weft direction be inelastic, it becomes textured in the warp direction Yarn and a plain yarn used in the weft direction.
  • the procedure is reversed.
  • Fig. 6 illustrates a common design of a multi-area insert 5 from a woven multi-area interlining 1.
  • the warp direction of the fabric web 1 is indicated by the arrow K and the Shot direction marked by arrow S.
  • the weft direction S have the web 1 and the bordered insert 5 different Zones (I, II and III) on by different warp thread densities are marked and accordingly have different properties.
  • the insert points in the warp direction K and / or weft direction S over the entire width and Length of the insert each homogeneous elastic compression and Elasticity, because in the warp direction K a uniform yarn and also uses a uniform yarn in the weft direction S.
  • Fabric webs can be different for the inserts according to the invention Structure, i.e. in the sense of the invention with different dense zones are woven. Give examples of this 1 and 2.
  • the warp direction is marked in these figures K and the shot direction S.
  • the web 1 points in the weft direction S a medium heavier, i.e. denser dark zone and two side lighter ones, i.e. less dense zones.
  • Figure (2) shows two heavier zones on the outside and a lighter zone in the middle.
  • Lane 1 as shown in Figure (3) points between the middle heavier zone and the two lateral lighter zones each have a transition zone with a Warp thread density between the density of the lighter and the density of the heavier zone.
  • On lane 1 as shown in the illustration (4) are also corresponding transition zones between the two outer heavier and the middle lighter zone arranged.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates schematically how the webs according to FIG. 1 can be produced, for example.
  • a reed 2 is indicated with equally spaced reed bars 3, each one Limit reed gap 4.
  • one Inlay provided area 6 is starting from the left margin regularly a warp thread 7 in a reed gap 4 of the Webblattes 2 fed.
  • Im following to the right Transition area 8 for a transition zone of an insert is a irregular, periodically repeating sheet feed provided with initially two warp threads 7 in the one reed gap 4a followed in the weft direction by four each with one thread equally wide reed gaps 4 per period 8a, two such Periods 8a are provided.
  • periods 8b Close to these periods are three periods 8b, each consisting of a two-thread Occupation in a gap 4a and three single-ended gaps 4 exist.
  • periods 8c with one each follow two-thread and two single-thread sheet feeders. After that follows a plack zone 9, in which a regular two-ply Sheet feed is provided.
  • the yarn of the warp threads 7 is in each case yarn with the same titer or fineness consisting of the same Material.
  • the warp threads 7 are made of weft threads which only one weft thread 10 is shown, because FIG. 3 a cross section in the weft direction, in the usual way meandered, with adjacent warp threads wrapped sinusoidally become. Possible and further the density is differentiating but also, the two-packs of warp threads in a reed gap 4a with only one sinusoidal loop instead of two Sinus arches as shown in Figure 3.
  • the weft threads point also have the same titer among themselves and are from the same Shot material.
  • a reed with graduated reed gaps i.e. With zonal gaps of different widths can be used.
  • An example of this is shown in Fig. 5.
  • Fig. 5 are the same Parts with the same reference numerals used in Fig. 3 marked.
  • the reed gaps 4a are narrower than is the reed gap 4 and each reed gap 4, 4a only covered with a warp thread 7.
  • Other manufacturing methods an interlining 1 according to the invention with graduated reeds are illustrated in Fig. 2.
  • the reed is according to Figure (1) in the middle made of reed bars with 160 Gaps 10 cm wide (160/10 cm) and 125 on both sides Gaps to 10 cm (125/10 cm).
  • a web with a heavier weight is woven Material 11 in the middle, each with a lateral transition zone with medium weight material 12 and medium light Material 13 and one adjoining zone light material 14.
  • the sheet feed for this is also shown in Figure (2).
  • a thread is regularly used in the zone for light material (14) moved in per relatively wide gap (125/1).
  • Zone for the medium-light material 13 is - preferably periodically - worked with irregular sheet feed (125 / 1-2).
  • the zone for the medium weight material 12 is a regular one double thread feed provided (125/2).
  • In the zone for that heavier material will be two threads in the tighter regularly gaps (160/2), resulting in the Illustration (3) with this reed (3) with 320 gaps on 10 cm (320/10 cm) in the middle and arranged laterally in each case 250 gaps on 10 cm (250/10 cm) and 125 gaps on 10 cm (125/10 cm) with regular single-thread feed for the materials 14 and 11 and irregular, possibly also periodic collection for materials 13 and 12.
  • interlining fabric webs produced according to the invention after weaving in a manner known per se and Way equipped and in the case of the use of textile yarns refined. Thereafter, in a manner known per se with adhesives coated.
  • weight classes of 35-150 g / m 2 can be realized in these multi-range inserts, ie it can, depending on the yarn used, produce articles that are only 35 g / m 2 in the lap and others that are in the Weigh the plack 150 g / m 2 . Between these limits, for example, deposits in the weight classes lap / plack 50/80 g / m 2 or 70/95 g / m 2 or 90/115 g / m 2 can be produced.
  • finishing process In case of using textured yarn this can be due to a known finishing process a defined, homogeneously elastic in warp and / or weft direction Behavior can be set.
  • Such finishing processes are for the production of the well-known mono-elastic or multi-elastic, single-layer interlining woven from textured yarns known.
  • these finishing processes also for the refinement of the invention Multi-area inserts made of textured yarns are used, without the different density zones the finishing stages disturb, but the yarns in terms of titer and material and the warp constructions must be coordinated in order to to achieve optimal effects.
  • the respective selection can Expert with simple experiments based on the teaching of the invention determine.
  • According to the invention can thus be inelastic, mono-elastic and multi-elastic Deposits are made, their properties optimal and multifunctional on the properties of the outer fabric are turned off.
  • the invention brings about a simplification in particular of the front fixation mono and multi-elastic lightweight outer fabrics in that a double fixation in the chest, shoulder or Plack area can be omitted. This means a significant reduction of working hours, variety of deposits and processing errors at the clothing manufacturer.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP97118355A 1997-10-22 1997-10-22 Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production Withdrawn EP0927523A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP97118355A EP0927523A1 (fr) 1997-10-22 1997-10-22 Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP97118355A EP0927523A1 (fr) 1997-10-22 1997-10-22 Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0927523A1 true EP0927523A1 (fr) 1999-07-07

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Family Applications (1)

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EP97118355A Withdrawn EP0927523A1 (fr) 1997-10-22 1997-10-22 Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004073436A1 (fr) * 2003-02-19 2004-09-02 Hänsel Textil GmbH Materiau d'entoilage fixable, ses procedes de production et son utilisation
CN103315426A (zh) * 2013-07-16 2013-09-25 南通大学 一种无甲醛抗菌全棉热熔机织粘合衬的生产方法
DE102018205136A1 (de) * 2018-04-05 2019-10-10 Adidas Ag Bekleidungsartikel

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1196235A (fr) * 1958-05-21 1959-11-23 Penet Revenant Procédé de fabrication de triplures et similaires pour l'entoilage d'articles vestimentaires
DE2100576A1 (de) * 1971-01-07 1972-07-20 Barig, Henryk, 8832 Weissenburg Einlagenstoff
EP0080946A1 (fr) * 1981-11-26 1983-06-08 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Perfectionnement aux étoffes de renfort à base tricotée pour entoilages de vêtements, procédés de fabrication et application à la constitution d'entoilages
EP0369046A1 (fr) * 1988-11-15 1990-05-23 KUFNER TEXTILWERKE GmbH Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande
EP0387117A1 (fr) * 1989-03-08 1990-09-12 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage et son procédé de fabrication
DE9319870U1 (de) * 1993-12-15 1994-06-01 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH, 81379 München Fixiereinlage aus einem Gewirke mit Schußfäden

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1196235A (fr) * 1958-05-21 1959-11-23 Penet Revenant Procédé de fabrication de triplures et similaires pour l'entoilage d'articles vestimentaires
DE2100576A1 (de) * 1971-01-07 1972-07-20 Barig, Henryk, 8832 Weissenburg Einlagenstoff
EP0080946A1 (fr) * 1981-11-26 1983-06-08 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Perfectionnement aux étoffes de renfort à base tricotée pour entoilages de vêtements, procédés de fabrication et application à la constitution d'entoilages
EP0369046A1 (fr) * 1988-11-15 1990-05-23 KUFNER TEXTILWERKE GmbH Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande
EP0387117A1 (fr) * 1989-03-08 1990-09-12 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Textile thermocollant destiné à l'entoilage et son procédé de fabrication
DE9319870U1 (de) * 1993-12-15 1994-06-01 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH, 81379 München Fixiereinlage aus einem Gewirke mit Schußfäden

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004073436A1 (fr) * 2003-02-19 2004-09-02 Hänsel Textil GmbH Materiau d'entoilage fixable, ses procedes de production et son utilisation
CN103315426A (zh) * 2013-07-16 2013-09-25 南通大学 一种无甲醛抗菌全棉热熔机织粘合衬的生产方法
DE102018205136A1 (de) * 2018-04-05 2019-10-10 Adidas Ag Bekleidungsartikel
CN110338486A (zh) * 2018-04-05 2019-10-18 阿迪达斯股份公司 服装制品
CN110338486B (zh) * 2018-04-05 2022-05-10 阿迪达斯股份公司 服装制品
CN114652031A (zh) * 2018-04-05 2022-06-24 阿迪达斯股份公司 服装制品
CN114652031B (zh) * 2018-04-05 2023-07-21 阿迪达斯股份公司 服装制品
US11821116B2 (en) 2018-04-05 2023-11-21 Adidas Ag Article of apparel

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