EP0369046A1 - Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande - Google Patents

Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0369046A1
EP0369046A1 EP88119026A EP88119026A EP0369046A1 EP 0369046 A1 EP0369046 A1 EP 0369046A1 EP 88119026 A EP88119026 A EP 88119026A EP 88119026 A EP88119026 A EP 88119026A EP 0369046 A1 EP0369046 A1 EP 0369046A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
interlining
web
fabric according
fabric
threads
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP88119026A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Josef Dr. Hefele
Josef Kufner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Original Assignee
Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kufner Textilwerke GmbH filed Critical Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
Priority to EP88119026A priority Critical patent/EP0369046A1/fr
Priority to AU44616/89A priority patent/AU4461689A/en
Priority to JP29517289A priority patent/JPH03130449A/ja
Publication of EP0369046A1 publication Critical patent/EP0369046A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a web-like interlining material obtained with transversely to the web direction changing elasticity jump to reinforce a textile blank, preferably the front part of a garment.
  • Such inserts are used in the article to be reinforced by ironing (Einixieren) or sewing.
  • zone-shaped graded Einlagestoffe which are referred to as Mehr Schlierenseinlagen are known. They consist of woven or knitted fabric articles, as described in EP 00 80 946, and have zones or regions with different graded elasticity.
  • the interlining fabrics are made into webs, from which the inserts for the individual garments, for example for the front of a garment are cut out so that they in the later connection with the front part of the garment in the shoulder region the strongest elasticity elasticity in the chest area a weakened elasticity and elastic have the lowest elasticity in the lap area.
  • Kett version are used in which from step to step varying warp threads are used and the webs produced are graded zonewise from one edge to the web center or to the other web edge in the bounce.
  • the insert blanks are cut out in the transverse direction, as shown in Fig. 1.
  • the interlining substances can be coated on one side grid-like with hot melt adhesive and are then after cutting on the part to be reinforced, z. B. ironed on the likewise tailored front part of a garment (fixed). In a likewise applied working technique, one sews uncoated woven interlining materials with such a gradation of the elasticity of the elasticity, here in stronger execution.
  • the iron-on woven or web-knitted interlining fabrics have the drawbacks described in more detail below and do not achieve the quality of previously used multi-zone inserts of the so-called shot version in which the wefts were stepped and the zonal gradations were in web direction. Because of litistechnischer problems when cutting inserts of the shot version of this deposit material, despite its qualitative advantages practically no more use.
  • the main drawback of the known woven and web-knit multigrade systems is that the desired grading intensity, ie the desired amount of gradation of the spring elasticity, between the zones, the for the lap, chest and shoulder area of the front part of a garment can not be fully achieved.
  • the lap zone is too tight, especially in the woven multi-zone inserts. If it is attempted to make the lap zone softer by using thin warp threads in a lower warp density, the grid-shaped application of the hot-melt adhesive causes coating problems, and later ironing on the front cut causes the adhesive to permeate through the insert, making the garment difficult to make and unbearable also later Futterverklebache may occur.
  • Some weakening of these deficiencies has been achieved through the use of woven fabric inserts, but without being able to fully meet the desire of the garment industry with regard to the extent of the zonal grading of the elasticity of the elasticity.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a graduated in its elasticity Einlagestoff, which has a high gradation intensity without excessive Kettkrumpferscheinept occur.
  • This object is achieved in that the interlining of a knitted fabric of stitch-forming warp threads, an integrated therein additional thread system whose elasticity transversely changes web direction, and one associated with the fabric and the additional thread system or embedded between the fabric and the additional thread system Nonwoven fabric is formed.
  • the insert according to Fig. 2a consist of a tricot binding of the stitch forming warp threads 1, wherein the stitches are arranged in the web direction in the form of wales 2 and in the transverse direction in the form of courses 3.
  • Sideways Fleet filaments 4 of the warp threads tie Stehfäden 8 of gradually different spring elasticity.
  • the integrated standing threads 8 wind themselves alternately from one to the other side of the wales 2.
  • Fig. 2b shows how a nonwoven fabric 5 between the solid strands 8 marked and floats 4 of the top and dotted marked wales 2 of the bottom is embedded.
  • Fig. 2c finally indicates the grid-like applied coating 6, which can be located on both the top and on the bottom.
  • the gradation of the elasticity of the elasticity for example, one can make a grading within the material web 10 running from top to bottom, only in sections, wherein in Fig. 1 the zone-shaped increasing density of the longitudinally oriented longitudinal lines 11 increases the bounce from the edge to the middle.
  • the lines 12 mark in this embodiment two sections to form two Mehr Schemeseinlagen for the front of a jacket or coat.
  • the zonal increase in the bounce can be achieved by changing the fiber thickness of the standing threads 8 of the standing thread system.
  • the fiber thickness of the standing yarns at the edges 10a and 10b of the web 10 may be very small and, for example, 1.2 dtex and the standing yarns in the web center 10c very large, for example at 100 dtex.
  • the thread thickness may be very small and, for example, 1.2 dtex and the standing yarns in the web center 10c very large, for example at 100 dtex.
  • the grid-shaped coating 6 is located on the front of the web to prevent migration of the straight standing threads 9.
  • the further embodiment according to FIG. 4 represents a variant with regard to the incorporation of the short weft yarns 8.
  • the short weft yarns 8 are alternately laid around the one and the adjacent wales 2 and held by their laterally branching floats 4.
  • the knitted fabric produced according to Fig. 4b with Stehfäden 8 and inlaid fleece 5 and the Fig. 4c provided with the grid-shaped coating 6 structure maintains a certain elasticity in the longitudinal direction, which compensates for any subsequent Krumpfdisharmonien the outer fabric.
  • the coating 6 may be located on both sides in this embodiment of the multi-region insert according to the invention. Again, the zonal gradation of elasticity can be made in the same way as in the insert according to Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 5b shows the produced knitted fabric with standing threads 8, 9 and fleece 5 and Fig. 5c the coated structure. Since the involvement of the intermediate Kurzschußstehfäden 9 is stronger than in the embodiment of Fig. 3, the coating is executable on both sides. Preferably, however, the coating is performed on the Kurzschußstehfadenseite.
  • the standing threads 8 there is also the possibility of combining different types of integration of the standing threads 8 with each other.
  • the type of incorporation of soft-twisted spun yarns 8 according to the embodiment of FIG. 5 is provided, while for the breast and shoulder areas of the pad for a garment the method of incorporation of studs 8 with strong rotation and strong fiber strength according to the embodiment of FIG. 3 is provided.
  • the fiber thicknesses of the usable standing yarns 8 are in a very wide range, z. B. from 1 to 30 dtex, variable, the finer fiber strengths are provided primarily for the lap area, the coarser primarily for the shoulder area.
  • the yarn size can vary from 50 to 1500 dtex and staple fibers, continuous filaments and multifilaments can be used.
  • the fiber material can consist of cotton, rayon and synthetic. The use of wool and hair, both of which are preferably antifelt treated, is possible. Also crimped yarns can be provided to create extra softness in the lap area.
  • the yarns can be used as single yarns and as twines or twisting yarns. For example, very strong yarns, which consist of a few capillaries, can be wound with very fine yarn.
  • the basic network which connects the standing threads 8, 9 and the fleece 5 with each other, can be bound differently.
  • tricot binding it is also possible, for example, to use a cloth weave or a combination of tricot and cloth weave with a fringe weave, the latter itself not forming a network.
  • Other known types of binding are suitable.
  • the warp threads 2 of the basic network are preferably made of synthetic multifilament yarns of a thread thickness of 30 to 50 dtex and a fiber thickness of 1 to 4 dtex.
  • the nonwoven 5 embedded in the base network which is kept free from binder impregnations, is preferably a spot-welded nonwoven having a high fiber content of over 75% of synthetic fibers, such as polyester or polyamide fibers, which weld together using higher pressure and higher temperature can be.
  • synthetic fibers such as polyester or polyamide fibers
  • a low nonwoven fiber strength is chosen, it can be between 0.9 and 3.3 dtex.
  • the punctiform weld 6 can be executed in a regular or in an irregular arrangement (random point arrangement).
  • the number of welding points is preferably in the range between 30 and 80 points / cm 2 and as a percentage of the welding surface on the total surface of the nonwoven fabric 5 already 4 - 10% are sufficient to optimally maintain the softness of the composite intended for the lap part to solidify.
  • the welding is carried out with a heated spiked roller and a smooth heated counter-roller whose temperatures are only slightly differ and be close to the temperature value for the onset of melting.
  • the pressing surfaces of the spines have a rectangular, square or diamond shape.
  • nonwovens which have been preconsolidated by mechanical means e.g. hydroentangled nonwovens which have a fairly strong entanglement of the fibers. It is less preferable to use needle-punched nonwovens because they have a reduced fiber entanglement at the intended nonwoven thickness of 15-50 g / m2 and can sometimes give rise to pilling.
  • weft yarn material having a thickness of 75 to 310 dtex and containing either or exclusively a portion of synthetic fiber is used.
  • the coating can be carried out in the multi-grade Einlagestoffen invention with conventional hot melt adhesives, such as copolyamides and polyesters, by screen printing, gravure or scattering pressure.
  • a combination of screen printing and scattering pressure according to the so-called duo coating method is possible.
  • a combination with a rollercoater coating can be carried out.
  • the grid arrangement can be regular or in a confused arrangement.
  • the seated coating piles may have dot and stick shape.
  • a dot coating is used.
  • the number of coating clusters is, as usual, between about 15 and 150 points / cm2.
  • the order amount can be between 12 and 25 g / m2, kickback problems have not been shown in the multi-region deposits according to the invention.
  • a continuous change in spring elasticity may also be provided.
  • Inventive interlining fabrics are not only suitable for reinforcement of front or other sections of garments, but also suitable for reinforcing textiles for other applications, eg. B. in the decoration area.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP88119026A 1988-11-15 1988-11-15 Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande Withdrawn EP0369046A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP88119026A EP0369046A1 (fr) 1988-11-15 1988-11-15 Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande
AU44616/89A AU4461689A (en) 1988-11-15 1989-11-13 Interfacing material which is web-like or produced from a web having resilience changing transversely of the web direction
JP29517289A JPH03130449A (ja) 1988-11-15 1989-11-15 ウェブ状間挿材料

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP88119026A EP0369046A1 (fr) 1988-11-15 1988-11-15 Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0369046A1 true EP0369046A1 (fr) 1990-05-23

Family

ID=8199566

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP88119026A Withdrawn EP0369046A1 (fr) 1988-11-15 1988-11-15 Bande d'étoffe d'entoilage ou entoilage obtenu d'une bande d'étoffe avec une élasticité changeant transversalement à la direction de la bande

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0369046A1 (fr)
JP (1) JPH03130449A (fr)
AU (1) AU4461689A (fr)

Cited By (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0487850A1 (fr) * 1990-11-27 1992-06-03 Firma Carl Freudenberg Non-tissé de rembourrage lié par agent de liage projeté
EP0514563A1 (fr) * 1991-05-21 1992-11-25 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Textile de renfort pour vêtements de dessus et son utilisation
DE4116569A1 (de) * 1991-05-21 1992-11-26 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fixierbare ganzteileinlage zur verstaerkung von oberstoffen
EP0644287A1 (fr) * 1993-09-17 1995-03-22 Lainiere De Picardie S.A. Support textile biodégradable, en tricot maille trame, pour entoilage thermocollant
EP0658323A2 (fr) * 1993-12-15 1995-06-21 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Renfort en tricot avec fils de trame
EP0828019A3 (fr) * 1996-09-10 1998-03-18 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Non-tissé composite, procédé pour sa production et son utilisation
EP0894442A2 (fr) * 1997-07-31 1999-02-03 Greiff Mode GmbH & Co. Article vestimentaire
EP0927523A1 (fr) * 1997-10-22 1999-07-07 Hänsel Textil GmbH & Co. Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production
FR2773956A1 (fr) * 1998-01-28 1999-07-30 Picardie Lainiere Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou piece equivalente
EP0937801A1 (fr) * 1998-02-20 1999-08-25 Lainiere De Picardie Support textile pour le renforcement d'un vêtement ou de pièces de vêtement , procédé de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ses applications
EP1193337A2 (fr) * 2000-10-02 2002-04-03 Teresa Maria Da Silva Ataide Matériau textile à effet de transparence pour vêtement ou pour ameublement.
US7191471B2 (en) 2002-04-19 2007-03-20 Bagir Co (1961) Ltd. Item of apparel
WO2007057526A1 (fr) * 2005-11-18 2007-05-24 Florence Regnier Materiau textile ajoure reversible, utilisable dans les domaines de l'habillement, l'ameublement et la decoration interieure et procede de realisation de celui-ci.
EP3336230B1 (fr) * 2016-12-19 2022-09-14 Tietex International Ltd. Produits renforcés de manière directionnelle

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2332492A1 (de) * 1973-06-26 1975-01-16 Swh Haevelia Spinnerei Weberei Einlagestoff
US4287246A (en) * 1975-03-01 1981-09-01 Bondina, Ltd. Multizonal fiber distribution
EP0080946A1 (fr) * 1981-11-26 1983-06-08 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Perfectionnement aux étoffes de renfort à base tricotée pour entoilages de vêtements, procédés de fabrication et application à la constitution d'entoilages
EP0119754A2 (fr) * 1983-02-17 1984-09-26 Crown Textile Company Tissu de renfort composite et fusible, son procédé de fabrication
GB2175821A (en) * 1985-05-28 1986-12-10 Bondina Limited Bonded fabrics

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2332492A1 (de) * 1973-06-26 1975-01-16 Swh Haevelia Spinnerei Weberei Einlagestoff
US4287246A (en) * 1975-03-01 1981-09-01 Bondina, Ltd. Multizonal fiber distribution
EP0080946A1 (fr) * 1981-11-26 1983-06-08 LAINIERE DE PICARDIE: Société anonyme Perfectionnement aux étoffes de renfort à base tricotée pour entoilages de vêtements, procédés de fabrication et application à la constitution d'entoilages
EP0119754A2 (fr) * 1983-02-17 1984-09-26 Crown Textile Company Tissu de renfort composite et fusible, son procédé de fabrication
GB2175821A (en) * 1985-05-28 1986-12-10 Bondina Limited Bonded fabrics

Cited By (30)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0487850A1 (fr) * 1990-11-27 1992-06-03 Firma Carl Freudenberg Non-tissé de rembourrage lié par agent de liage projeté
EP0514563A1 (fr) * 1991-05-21 1992-11-25 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Textile de renfort pour vêtements de dessus et son utilisation
DE4116569A1 (de) * 1991-05-21 1992-11-26 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fixierbare ganzteileinlage zur verstaerkung von oberstoffen
US5241709A (en) * 1991-05-21 1993-09-07 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Interfacing for stiffening outer garments and its particular application
US5688558A (en) * 1993-09-17 1997-11-18 Lainiere De Picardie S.A. Process of making biodegradable textile thermo-bonding interlining
EP0644287A1 (fr) * 1993-09-17 1995-03-22 Lainiere De Picardie S.A. Support textile biodégradable, en tricot maille trame, pour entoilage thermocollant
FR2710078A1 (fr) * 1993-09-17 1995-03-24 Picardie Lainiere Support textile biodégradable, en tricot maille trame, pour entoilage thermocollant.
TR27985A (tr) * 1993-09-17 1995-11-16 Picardie Lainiere Termo-baglanmali ic-astarlama icin, atki örgüsünde bulunan biyo-bozunur tekstil destek maddesi.
EP0658323A3 (fr) * 1993-12-15 1996-09-25 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Renfort en tricot avec fils de trame.
EP0658323A2 (fr) * 1993-12-15 1995-06-21 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Renfort en tricot avec fils de trame
EP0828019A3 (fr) * 1996-09-10 1998-03-18 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH Non-tissé composite, procédé pour sa production et son utilisation
WO1998011291A1 (fr) * 1996-09-10 1998-03-19 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Tissu composite, son procede de production et son utilisation
US6242372B1 (en) 1996-09-10 2001-06-05 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Non-woven composite, a process for its production and its use
EP0894442A3 (fr) * 1997-07-31 1999-08-11 Greiff Mode GmbH & Co. Article vestimentaire
EP0894442A2 (fr) * 1997-07-31 1999-02-03 Greiff Mode GmbH & Co. Article vestimentaire
EP0927523A1 (fr) * 1997-10-22 1999-07-07 Hänsel Textil GmbH & Co. Double textile thermocollante ainsi que procédé et dispositif pour sa production
FR2773956A1 (fr) * 1998-01-28 1999-07-30 Picardie Lainiere Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou piece equivalente
EP0933032A1 (fr) * 1998-01-28 1999-08-04 Lainiere De Picardie Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente
US6250116B1 (en) 1998-01-28 2001-06-26 Laniere De Picardie Textile support for reinforcing a shirt collar or similar piece
EP0937801A1 (fr) * 1998-02-20 1999-08-25 Lainiere De Picardie Support textile pour le renforcement d'un vêtement ou de pièces de vêtement , procédé de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ses applications
WO1999042645A1 (fr) * 1998-02-20 1999-08-26 Lainiere De Picardie Support textile pour le renforcement d'un vetement ou de pieces de vetement, procede de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ses applications
FR2775300A1 (fr) * 1998-02-20 1999-08-27 Picardie Lainiere Support textile pour le renforcement d'un vetement ou de pieces de vetement, procede de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ses applications
US6281150B1 (en) 1998-02-20 2001-08-28 Lainiere De Picardie Textile support for reinforcing an item of clothing or pieces of clothing
EP1193337A2 (fr) * 2000-10-02 2002-04-03 Teresa Maria Da Silva Ataide Matériau textile à effet de transparence pour vêtement ou pour ameublement.
FR2814761A1 (fr) * 2000-10-02 2002-04-05 Silva Ataide Theresa Maria Da Materiau textile stratifie a effet de transparence pour revetement ou pour ameublement
EP1193337A3 (fr) * 2000-10-02 2009-05-20 Teresa Maria Da Silva Ataide Matériau textile à effet de transparence pour vêtement ou pour ameublement.
US7191471B2 (en) 2002-04-19 2007-03-20 Bagir Co (1961) Ltd. Item of apparel
WO2007057526A1 (fr) * 2005-11-18 2007-05-24 Florence Regnier Materiau textile ajoure reversible, utilisable dans les domaines de l'habillement, l'ameublement et la decoration interieure et procede de realisation de celui-ci.
FR2893635A1 (fr) * 2005-11-18 2007-05-25 Florence Blanche Louis Regnier Materiau textile ajoure reversible, utilisable dans les domaines de l'habillement, de l'ameublement et de la decoration interieure, et procede de realisation de celui-ci
EP3336230B1 (fr) * 2016-12-19 2022-09-14 Tietex International Ltd. Produits renforcés de manière directionnelle

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH03130449A (ja) 1991-06-04
AU4461689A (en) 1990-05-24

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