EP0555250A1 - Kosmetische zubereitung - Google Patents
Kosmetische zubereitungInfo
- Publication number
- EP0555250A1 EP0555250A1 EP91918089A EP91918089A EP0555250A1 EP 0555250 A1 EP0555250 A1 EP 0555250A1 EP 91918089 A EP91918089 A EP 91918089A EP 91918089 A EP91918089 A EP 91918089A EP 0555250 A1 EP0555250 A1 EP 0555250A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- phosphorylated
- pseudoceramide
- group
- sulphated
- carbon atoms
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 68
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title description 6
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 150000001338 aliphatic hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- -1 C22 fatty acid Chemical class 0.000 claims description 41
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 22
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000026731 phosphorylation Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000006366 phosphorylation reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000002467 phosphate group Chemical group [H]OP(=O)(O[H])O[*] 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004593 Epoxy Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000006527 (C1-C5) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 230000003752 improving hair Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract description 7
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 abstract description 7
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 abstract description 7
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 abstract description 7
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 abstract description 2
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000001727 in vivo Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 28
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 23
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 22
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 17
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 17
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 14
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 12
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 11
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 description 10
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 10
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 9
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 9
- 239000003981 vehicle Substances 0.000 description 9
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 8
- NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butylhydroxytoluene Chemical compound CC1=CC(C(C)(C)C)=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1 NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000019441 ethanol Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 7
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000004322 Butylated hydroxytoluene Substances 0.000 description 6
- 235000010354 butylated hydroxytoluene Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 229940095259 butylated hydroxytoluene Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 206010013786 Dry skin Diseases 0.000 description 5
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 230000037336 dry skin Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- MGYUQZIGNZFZJS-KTKRTIGZSA-N 2-[2-[(z)-octadec-9-enoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCOCCO MGYUQZIGNZFZJS-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 4
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000001476 alcoholic effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000001408 amides Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 4
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000008309 hydrophilic cream Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 4
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- XHXFXVLFKHQFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphoryl trichloride Chemical compound ClP(Cl)(Cl)=O XHXFXVLFKHQFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 4
- FYSNRJHAOHDILO-UHFFFAOYSA-N thionyl chloride Chemical compound ClS(Cl)=O FYSNRJHAOHDILO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-octadecoxyoctadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- MUHFRORXWCGZGE-KTKRTIGZSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl (z)-octadec-9-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO MUHFRORXWCGZGE-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YMWUJEATGCHHMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dichloromethane Chemical compound ClCCl YMWUJEATGCHHMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IAZDPXIOMUYVGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylsulphoxide Chemical compound CS(C)=O IAZDPXIOMUYVGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- AXISYYRBXTVTFY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C AXISYYRBXTVTFY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ZMXDDKWLCZADIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N N,N-Dimethylformamide Chemical compound CN(C)C=O ZMXDDKWLCZADIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N Sorbitan monopalmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O IYFATESGLOUGBX-YVNJGZBMSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N Sorbitan monostearate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O HVUMOYIDDBPOLL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N Sorbitan trioleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N 0.000 description 3
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IJCWFDPJFXGQBN-RYNSOKOISA-N [(2R)-2-[(2R,3R,4S)-4-hydroxy-3-octadecanoyloxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-octadecanoyloxyethyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IJCWFDPJFXGQBN-RYNSOKOISA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229960001760 dimethyl sulfoxide Drugs 0.000 description 3
- KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N disiloxane Chemical class [SiH3]O[SiH3] KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecahydrosqualene Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 3
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000011078 sorbitan tristearate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N (2r,3r,4r,5s)-hexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexol;(z)-octadec-9-enoic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O CUNWUEBNSZSNRX-RKGWDQTMSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N (z)-1-[(z)-octadec-9-enoxy]octadec-9-ene Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CMCBDXRRFKYBDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-dodecoxydodecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCC CMCBDXRRFKYBDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JKXYOQDLERSFPT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-octadecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO JKXYOQDLERSFPT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminobenzoic acid Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XZIIFPSPUDAGJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-chloro-2-n,2-n-diethylpyrimidine-2,4-diamine Chemical compound CCN(CC)C1=NC(N)=CC(Cl)=N1 XZIIFPSPUDAGJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004358 Butane-1, 3-diol Substances 0.000 description 2
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon dioxide Chemical compound O=C=O CURLTUGMZLYLDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethyl ether Chemical compound COC LCGLNKUTAGEVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 2
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GQPLMRYTRLFLPF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nitrous Oxide Chemical compound [O-][N+]#N GQPLMRYTRLFLPF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 102000004160 Phosphoric Monoester Hydrolases Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108090000608 Phosphoric Monoester Hydrolases Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 229920002565 Polyethylene Glycol 400 Polymers 0.000 description 2
- ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propane Chemical compound CCC ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004147 Sorbitan trioleate Substances 0.000 description 2
- WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tetrahydrofuran Chemical compound C1CCOC1 WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019437 butane-1,3-diol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- DTPCFIHYWYONMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N decaethylene glycol Polymers OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO DTPCFIHYWYONMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SASYSVUEVMOWPL-NXVVXOECSA-N decyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC SASYSVUEVMOWPL-NXVVXOECSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DOIRQSBPFJWKBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibutyl phthalate Chemical compound CCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCCCC DOIRQSBPFJWKBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000012153 distilled water Substances 0.000 description 2
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000007062 hydrolysis Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000006460 hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- NNPPMTNAJDCUHE-UHFFFAOYSA-N isobutane Chemical compound CC(C)C NNPPMTNAJDCUHE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229910052943 magnesium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium sulphate Substances [Mg+2].[O-][S+2]([O-])([O-])[O-] CSNNHWWHGAXBCP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- LPNBBFKOUUSUDB-UHFFFAOYSA-M p-toluate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 LPNBBFKOUUSUDB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 2
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- FAIAAWCVCHQXDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphorus trichloride Chemical compound ClP(Cl)Cl FAIAAWCVCHQXDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940035044 sorbitan monolaurate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000001570 sorbitan monopalmitate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000011071 sorbitan monopalmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940031953 sorbitan monopalmitate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000001587 sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000011076 sorbitan monostearate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940035048 sorbitan monostearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000001589 sorbitan tristearate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229960004129 sorbitan tristearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 2
- JSPNNZKWADNWHI-PNANGNLXSA-N (2r)-2-hydroxy-n-[(2s,3r,4e,8e)-3-hydroxy-9-methyl-1-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoctadeca-4,8-dien-2-yl]heptadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)C(=O)N[C@H]([C@H](O)\C=C\CC\C=C(/C)CCCCCCCCC)CO[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JSPNNZKWADNWHI-PNANGNLXSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N (6E,10E,14E,18E)-2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosa-2,6,10,14,18,22-hexaene Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C YYGNTYWPHWGJRM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- XEIOPEQGDSYOIH-MURFETPASA-N propan-2-yl (9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoate Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XEIOPEQGDSYOIH-MURFETPASA-N 0.000 description 1
- NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZPWFUIUNWDIYCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C ZPWFUIUNWDIYCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001294 propane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019812 sodium carboxymethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001027 sodium carboxymethylcellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium polyacrylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C=C NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001593 sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011069 sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940035049 sorbitan monooleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960005078 sorbitan sesquioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004274 stearic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- XTHPWXDJESJLNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfurochloridic acid Chemical compound OS(Cl)(=O)=O XTHPWXDJESJLNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910021653 sulphate ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001117 sulphuric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011149 sulphuric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000020238 sunflower seed Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl 2-hydroxypropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)O BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrahydrofuran Natural products C=1C=COC=1 YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VUYXVWGKCKTUMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontaethylene glycol monomethyl ether Chemical compound COCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO VUYXVWGKCKTUMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichlorofluoromethane Chemical compound FC(Cl)(Cl)Cl CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940029284 trichlorofluoromethane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCO ZIBGPFATKBEMQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07F—ACYCLIC, CARBOCYCLIC OR HETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS CONTAINING ELEMENTS OTHER THAN CARBON, HYDROGEN, HALOGEN, OXYGEN, NITROGEN, SULFUR, SELENIUM OR TELLURIUM
- C07F9/00—Compounds containing elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table
- C07F9/02—Phosphorus compounds
- C07F9/06—Phosphorus compounds without P—C bonds
- C07F9/08—Esters of oxyacids of phosphorus
- C07F9/09—Esters of phosphoric acids
- C07F9/10—Phosphatides, e.g. lecithin
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
- C07H15/00—Compounds containing hydrocarbon or substituted hydrocarbon radicals directly attached to hetero atoms of saccharide radicals
- C07H15/02—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures
- C07H15/04—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures attached to an oxygen atom of the saccharide radical
- C07H15/10—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures attached to an oxygen atom of the saccharide radical containing unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C305/00—Esters of sulfuric acids
- C07C305/02—Esters of sulfuric acids having oxygen atoms of sulfate groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of a carbon skeleton
- C07C305/04—Esters of sulfuric acids having oxygen atoms of sulfate groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of a carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated
- C07C305/06—Hydrogenosulfates
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07H—SUGARS; DERIVATIVES THEREOF; NUCLEOSIDES; NUCLEOTIDES; NUCLEIC ACIDS
- C07H15/00—Compounds containing hydrocarbon or substituted hydrocarbon radicals directly attached to hetero atoms of saccharide radicals
- C07H15/02—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures
- C07H15/04—Acyclic radicals, not substituted by cyclic structures attached to an oxygen atom of the saccharide radical
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
Definitions
- the invention relates to modified pseudoceramides
- compositions for topical application to human skin, hair or nails.
- ceramides present within the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum play an important role in the production and maintenance of the water permeability barrier of the skin. Ceramides, or substances closely related to them, have been disclosed as components of skin care compositions.
- Kao Corporation in EP 227 994 and EP 282 816 disclose the use of synthetic ceramides, which are similar to their to their natural counterparts found in skin.
- Unilever in EP 97 059 disclose ⁇ -O-linoleoyl ceramides and emphasize their role in the water barrier function of the skin.
- pseudoceramides that is synthetic analogues of naturally occuring ceramides which resemble in the key properties the natural substances, and which have been modified by phosphorylation and/or sulphation. Accordingly, when these modified pseudoceramides are applied topically to the skin, together with a suitable cosmetically acceptable vehicle, they will readily penetrate the stratum corneum without permanently disrupting it, and after
- R represents the group:
- OR 2 R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or
- A represents H or the group:
- R 2 & R 3 individually represent H, a sugar
- R 4 represents a linear or branched
- non-sulphated aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 49 carbon atoms or the group Y-O-(C a H b )- ;
- R 5 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non- hydroxylated, phosphorylated or non- phosphorylated, sulphated or non-sulphated aliphatic hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 49 carbon atoms;
- P i represents a is an integer of from 7 to 49
- b is an integer of from 10 to 98
- c is 0, or an integer of from 1 to 4
- n 0 or 1
- X 1 , X 2 & X 3 individually represent H, a C 1 to 5
- alkyl group or a C 1 to 5 hydroxyalkyl group
- Y represents H or a residue of a C 14 to C 22 fatty acid having the structure (3):
- y is an integer of from 20 to 40
- z is O, or an integer of from 1 to 4; provided that at least one out of R 2 & R 3 is either a phosphate residue or a sulphate residue.
- the invention provides a class of modified
- pseudoceramides having the general structure (1) or (2) as hereinbefore defined.
- the group R 1 of the structure (1) above may preferably be aliphatic hydrocarbon group of 1 to 33 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 28 carbon atoms, yet more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the group R 4 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon group of 8 to 49 carbon atoms, more preferably 11 to 29 carbon If
- R 4 C is acyl of 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the group R 4 may be derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic group and may be sulphated or phosphorylated through reaction with the hydroxyl group(s).
- the group R 5 is preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon of up to 28 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Also, with reference to structure (1), the value of "a” is preferably an integer of from 24 to 30 and the value of "b” is preferably an integer of from 44 to 60. Also, with reference to structure (1), the group Y
- modified pseudoceramides according to the invention can be synthesised using a conventional method involving phosphorylation and/or sulphation. Examples of
- phosphorylation comprise the treatment of pseudoceramide with one of the following: (i) phosphorus pentoxide - (P 2 O 5 ),
- Examples of sulphation comprise the treatment of
- pseudoceramide with one of the following: (i) chlorosulphonic acid,
- phosphorylation will preferably be of formula
- Phosphorylation or, as the case may be, sulphation will preferably be carried out under conditions where any hydroxyl group present in the starting material can react. This then leads to (at least some) formation of product compounds in which neither R 2 nor R 3 is H. It can also convert hydroxyl groups present as substituents on R 1 , R 4 or R 5 into phosphate or sulphate groups. There may be sulphation or phosphorylation of all free hydroxyl groups in the starting material. Such uncontrolled sulphation or phosphorylation is acceptable because it is intended that the sulphate or phosphate groups will be removed in vivo by naturally occurring enzymes.
- the sulphated pseudoceramide having the structure (16) is prepared from N-(2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxypropyl)
- the invention also provides a composition for topical application to human skin which comprises: i. an effective amount of a modified pseudoceramide or mixture of modified pseudoceramides having the structure (1); and ii. a cosmetically acceptable vehicle for the modified pseudoceramide.
- composition according to the invention comprises in its simplest form a special modified pseudoceramide or a mixture of pseudoceramides and a vehicle therefor to enable the modified pseudoceramide(s) to be dispersed onto the skin and distributed thereon.
- composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of a modified pseudoceramide, or a mixture thereof, having the structure (l) as herein defined.
- Preferred examples of the modified pseudoceramide having the structure (1) are those having the structure (4) to (24), as herein defined.
- the amount of the modified pseudoceramide, or a mixture thereof present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.00001 to 50%, preferably from 0.001 to 20% and most preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
- the Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle is from 0.00001 to 50%, preferably from 0.001 to 20% and most preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
- composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the modified pseudoceramide in the composition, so as to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied to the skin and/or hair.
- Vehicles other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders.
- Emollients such as stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as
- lanolin cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, tallow, lard, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitatic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl
- lactate myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl
- Propellants such as trichlorofluoromethane
- dichlorodifluoromethane dichlorotetrafluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, trichlorotrifluoroethane, propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide;
- Solvents such as ethyl alcohol, methylene chloride, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, dimethyl sulphoxide, dimethyl formamide, tetrahydrofuran; Powders, such as chalk, talc, fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically
- silicate fumed silica
- carboxyvinyl polymer sodium carboxymethyl cellulose
- ethylene glycol monostearate
- the cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from 10 to 99.9%, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight of the emulsion, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.
- an emulsion in which case an oil or oily material will normally be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lyophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
- HLB hydrophilic-lyophilic balance
- composition according to the invention can optionally comprise one or more oils or other materials having the properties of an oil.
- suitable oils include mineral oil and
- oils vegetable oils, and oil materials, such as those already proposed herein as emollients.
- Other oils or oily materials include silicone oils, both volatile and non-volatile, such as polydimethyl siloxanes.
- the oil or oily material when present for the purposes for forming an emulsion, will normally form up to 90%, preferably from 10 to 80% by volume of the composition.
- composition according to the invention can also optionally comprise one or more emulsifiers the choice of which will normally determine whether a water-in-oil or and oil-in-water emulsion is formed.
- the chosen emulsifier or emulsifiers should normally have an average HLB value of from 1 to 6.
- a chosen emulsifier or emulsifiers should have an average HLB value of >6.
- suitable emulsifiers are set below in Table 1 in which the chemical name of the emulsifiers is given together with an example of a trade name as commercially available, and the average HLB value. Table 1
- Sorbitan trioleate Arlacel 85 1.8 Sorbitan tristearate Span 65 2.1 Glycerol monooleate Aldo MD 2.7 Glycerol monostearate Atmul 84S 2.8 Glycerol monolaurate Aldo MC 3.3 Sorbitan sesquioleate Arlacel 83 3.7 Sorbitan monooleate Arlacel 80 4.3 Sorbitan monostearate Arlacel 60 4.7 Poloxyethylene (2)
- the amount of emulsifier or mixtures thereof, to be incorporated in the composition of the invention, when appropriate is from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 20% and most preferably from 2 to 10% by weight of the
- composition of the invention can also comprise water, usually up to 98%, preferably from 5 to 80% by volume.
- composition of the invention can also optionally comprise a high molecular weight silicone surfactant which can also act as an emulsifier, in place of or in addition to the optional emulsifier (s) already mentioned.
- a high molecular weight silicone surfactant which can also act as an emulsifier, in place of or in addition to the optional emulsifier (s) already mentioned.
- the silicone surfactant is a high molecular weight polymer of dimethyl polysiloxane with polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene side chains having a molecular weight of from 10,000 to 50,000 and having the structure:
- CH 3 a has a value of from 9 to 115
- b has a value of from 0 to 50
- x has a value of from 133 to 673
- y has a value of from 25 to 0.25.
- the dimethyl polysiloxane polymer is one in which: a has a value of from 10 to 114
- b has a value of from 0 to 49
- x has a value of from 388 to 402
- y has a value of from 15 to 0.75 one of groups R' and R" being lauryl, and the other having a molcular weight of from 1000 to 5000.
- a particularly preferred dimethyl polysiloxane polymer is one in which: a has the value 14
- y has the value 1.25
- the dimethyl polysiloxane polymer is conveniently provided as a dispersion in a volatile siloxane, the dispersion comprising, for example, from 1 to 20% by volume of the polymer and from 80 to 99% by volume of the volatile siloxane.
- the dispersion consists of a 10% by volume of the polymer dispersed in the volatile siloxane.
- polysiloxane polymer can be dispersed include polydimethyl siloxane (pentamer and/or hexamer).
- a particularly preferred silicone surfactant is
- cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol such as DC 3225C Formulation Aid available from DOW CORNING.
- silicone surfactant when present in the composition will normally be up to 25%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight of the emulsion.
- adjuncts examples include preservatives, such as para-hydroxy benzoate esters; antioxidants, such butyl hydroxy toluene; humectants, such as glycerol, sorbitol,
- 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate dibutylphthalate, gelatin, polyethylene, glycol, preferably PEG 200-600; buffers, such as lactic acid together with a base such as
- triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide
- surfactants such as glycerol ethers and other pseudoceramides of synthetic, animal or plant origin
- phospholipids such as beeswax, ozokerite wax, paraffin wax, plant extracts, such as Aloe vera, cornflower, witch hazel, elderflower, cucumber; thickeners; activity enhancers; colourants;
- sunscreen materials such as ultrafine titanium dioxide and organic sunscreens such as
- p-aminobenzoic acid and esters thereof ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof.
- pseudoceramide is combined with conventional ceramides, unmodified pseudoceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol fatty acids, fatty acids, triglycerides, cerebroside,
- the modified pseudoceramide is dissolved in squalene or squalane, optionally together with conventional ceramides and/or pseudoceramides, and formulated with volatile and
- non-volatile silicones to produce an anhydrous or nearly anhydrous single phase system.
- Cosmetic adjuncts can form the balance of the composition.
- composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for reducing the permeability to water of the skin, particularly when the skin is dry or damaged, in order to reduce moisture loss and generally to enhance the quality of skin.
- the composition can also be applied to hair and nails.
- the modified pseudoceramides according to the invention have surfactant properties and can therefore also be used, in the form of a composition as herein defined, for cleansing the surface of the human body.
- the composition can be used to cleanse the skin to remove make up or can be employed in a shampoo for cleansing the hair.
- a small quantity of the composition for example from 1 to 5ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
- the topical skin, hair or nail treatment composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion having a viscosity of from 4,000 to 10,000 mPas, a fluid cream having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 20,000 mPas or a cream having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 100,000 mPas, or above.
- the composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer.
- a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation.
- the composition When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar.
- the invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.
- Example 1 The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
- Example 1 The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
- This example illustrates a high internal phase
- a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion having the following formulation was prepared:
- Example 2 This example also illustrates a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention in which the formulation of Example 1 was prepared but with the following changes: i. liquid paraffin replaced the fully hydrogenated
- Example 2 also illustrates a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention in which the formulation of Example 1 was prepared but with the following changes:
- the phosphorylated pseudoceramide had the structure (6).
- This example illustrates an oil-in-water cream containing an ester of the invention.
- Alfol 16RD is cetyl alcohol
- This example also illustrates an oil-in-water emulsion in accordance with the invention, in which the formulation of example 4 was prepared but with the following change: the modified pseudoceramide was phosphorylated and had the structure (8), as herein defined.
- This example illustrates an alcoholic lotion containing an amide of the invention.
- the lotion had the following formulation: % w/w Phosphorylated pseudoceramide
- This example illustrates an alcoholic lotion containing an amide of the invention.
- the lotion had the following formulations: % w/w Phosphorylated pseudoceramide
- compositions according to the invention represent lotions which can be used in the treatment of dry skin: % w/w
- compositions according to the invention represent lotions which can be used in the treatment of dry skin:
- Example 13 This example illustrates a high internal phase
- a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion having the following formulation was prepared:
- Example 2 also illustrates a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention in which the formulation of Example 1 was prepared but with the following changes: i. liquid paraffin replaced the fully hydrogenated
- Example 2 also illustrates a high internal phase water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention in which the formulation of Example 1 was prepared but with the following changes:
- the phosphorylated pseudoceramide had the structure (22).
- This example illustrates an oil-in-water cream containing an ester of the invention.
- Alfol 16RD is cetyl alcohol
- Example 18 also illustrates an oil-in-water emulsion containing an ester of the invention, in which the formulation of example 4 was prepared but with the following change: the sulphated pseudoceramide was that having structure (24), as herein defined.
- Example 18 the sulphated pseudoceramide was that having structure (24), as herein defined.
- Example 19 also illustrates an oil-in-water emulsion in accordance with the invention, in which the formulation of example 4 was prepared but with the following changes: the modified pseudoceramide was phosphorylated and had the structure (4) as herein defined.
- Example 19
- This example illustrates an alcoholic lotion containing an amide of the invention.
- the lotion had the following formulation: % w/w
- This example illustrates an alcoholic lotion containing an amide of the invention which is suitable for application to nails.
- the lotion had the following formulations :
- compositions according to the invention represent lotions which can be used in the treatment of dry, unmanageable hair. % w/w
- compositions according to the invention represent lotions which can be used in the treatment of dry skin, hair or nails: % w/w
- Example 24 The oil-in-water emulsion of Example 24 was prepared, but the sulphated pseudoceramide (7) was replaced with the phosphorylated pseudoceramide (18) or the phosphorylated pseudoceramide (20).
- Example 26 The water-in-oil emulsion of Example 1 was prepared, but the phosphorylated pseudoceramide (14) was replaced with the sulphated pseudoceramide (21).
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
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Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
GB909022926A GB9022926D0 (en) | 1990-10-22 | 1990-10-22 | Cosmetic composition |
GB9022926 | 1990-10-22 | ||
GB909027706A GB9027706D0 (en) | 1990-12-20 | 1990-12-20 | Cosmetic composition |
GB9027706 | 1990-12-20 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0555250A1 true EP0555250A1 (de) | 1993-08-18 |
Family
ID=26297837
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP91918089A Withdrawn EP0555250A1 (de) | 1990-10-22 | 1991-10-21 | Kosmetische zubereitung |
Country Status (7)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0555250A1 (de) |
JP (1) | JPH06504265A (de) |
KR (1) | KR930702360A (de) |
AU (1) | AU8734391A (de) |
BR (1) | BR9107032A (de) |
CA (1) | CA2094500A1 (de) |
WO (1) | WO1992006982A1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1993005763A1 (en) * | 1991-09-24 | 1993-04-01 | Kao Corporation | Composition for external skin care |
GB9124360D0 (en) * | 1991-11-15 | 1992-01-08 | Unilever Plc | Cosmetic compositions |
CA2099188C (en) * | 1992-07-24 | 2005-12-13 | Paul A. Bowser | Use of a cosmetic composition |
FR2718960B1 (fr) * | 1994-04-22 | 1996-06-07 | Oreal | Compositions pour le traitement et la protection des cheveux, à base de céramide et de polymères à groupements cationiques. |
FR2747567B1 (fr) * | 1996-04-22 | 1998-05-22 | Oreal | Utilisation de ceramide pour le traitement des ongles |
KR19980034991A (ko) | 1996-11-11 | 1998-08-05 | 안용찬 | 비천연세라미드 관련화합물 및 이를 함유하는 피부외용제 |
CN104530117B (zh) * | 2014-11-21 | 2017-05-24 | 何彦波 | 一种妥尔油酸二乙醇酰胺磷酸酯及其制备方法 |
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US4534899A (en) * | 1981-07-20 | 1985-08-13 | Lipid Specialties, Inc. | Synthetic phospholipid compounds |
JPS59187787A (ja) * | 1983-04-11 | 1984-10-24 | Meito Sangyo Kk | 酵素法スフインゴリン脂質誘導体の製法 |
-
1991
- 1991-10-21 CA CA002094500A patent/CA2094500A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 1991-10-21 WO PCT/GB1991/001839 patent/WO1992006982A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1991-10-21 JP JP3516917A patent/JPH06504265A/ja active Pending
- 1991-10-21 KR KR1019930701194A patent/KR930702360A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1991-10-21 AU AU87343/91A patent/AU8734391A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1991-10-21 BR BR919107032A patent/BR9107032A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1991-10-21 EP EP91918089A patent/EP0555250A1/de not_active Withdrawn
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See references of WO9206982A1 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO1992006982A1 (en) | 1992-04-30 |
CA2094500A1 (en) | 1992-04-23 |
BR9107032A (pt) | 1994-01-25 |
JPH06504265A (ja) | 1994-05-19 |
AU8734391A (en) | 1992-05-20 |
KR930702360A (ko) | 1993-09-08 |
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