CN114903812A - Special-moistening repair cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Special-moistening repair cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN114903812A
CN114903812A CN202110672366.3A CN202110672366A CN114903812A CN 114903812 A CN114903812 A CN 114903812A CN 202110672366 A CN202110672366 A CN 202110672366A CN 114903812 A CN114903812 A CN 114903812A
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skin
extract
ceramide
repair cream
cream
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姚哲男
舒鹏
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Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a special repairing cream and a preparation method thereof. The preparation raw materials comprise skin conditioner, emollient, humectant, thickener, chelating agent, pH regulator, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer and water; wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, saccharomyces bifidus fermentation product filtrate, ceramide, and plant extract. The moisturizing and skin brightening effects are realized, and meanwhile, the moisturizing and skin brightening effects can also penetrate deep into the skin, repair the damaged skin and enhance the elasticity of the skin, so that the moisturizing and skin brightening agent is also suitable for people who have sensitive skin, skin damaged by sunshine and skin easy to dry in winter.

Description

Special-moistening repair cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a special repairing cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In the rapidly developing modern society, severe environmental pollution and huge living pressure accelerate the aging and damage of the skin. Therefore, people increasingly pay more attention to skin care. In recent years, various skin care products have been increasingly enthusiastic.
The skin barrier is composed of the sebaceous membrane, the stratum corneum proteins, and intercellular lipids, and is the protective wall of the skin. In dry autumn and winter, the water loss of the skin is accelerated, the cuticle is thinned, the barrier of the skin is damaged, the resistance of the skin is reduced, and the problems of skin deterioration, redness, itching, rash and the like can be caused by any slight stimulation, so that the skin becomes worse! In addition, high concentrations of alcohol preservatives and fragrances can cause damage to the sebum membrane, damage to the structural integrity of the skin, and long-term use can result in compromised skin barriers.
However, various ether or hydroxyl emulsifiers and traditional chemical preservatives such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and the like are added in the existing cream products, although the emulsifiers can improve the stable preservation property of the skin care product to a certain extent. However, the addition of the chemical preservatives has irritation to sensitive skin, skin damaged by sunshine and skin easy to dry in winter, and easily damages the skin barrier structure to cause damage. In addition, the effective components in the existing cream products are difficult to deeply penetrate into the skin, and can only be extracted and remained on the surface layer of the skin within a short time to improve the moisture retention.
Therefore, there is a need for a soothing cream that on the one hand reduces irritation to the skin and on the other hand protects the sebaceous membrane, the stratum corneum proteins, repairs the damaged skin barrier and maintains the integrity of the skin structure. The invention provides the special moisturizing repair cream which is natural and non-toxic, moisturizes and can maintain the elasticity of skin and deeply repair damaged skin so as to meet the requirements of people who feel sensitive skin, suffer from sunburn damage and easily dry skin in winter.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve some problems in the prior art, the invention provides a special-moistening repair cream in a first aspect, which is prepared from the raw materials of a skin conditioner, an emollient, a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a pH regulator, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer and water; wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises at least one of panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, split yeast fermentation product filtrate, ceramide, and plant extract.
According to a preferable technical scheme, the skin care cream comprises, by weight, 5-25% of a skin conditioner, 1-10% of an emollient, 5-30% of a humectant, 0.1-3% of a thickening agent, 0.05-0.15% of a chelating agent, 0.05-0.15% of a pH regulator, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsifier, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsion stabilizer and the balance of water.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the skin conditioner comprises a mixture of panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, saccharomyces bifidus fermentation product filtrate, ceramide, and plant extract.
According to a preferable technical scheme, the panthenol accounts for 1-8% of the preparation raw material of the repair cream in percentage by weight; the oat beta glucan accounts for 0.2-4% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the nicotinamide accounts for 2-7% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the sugar isomer accounts for 0.5-1% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream, and the secondary fission yeast fermentation product filtrate accounts for 4-6% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the ceramide accounts for 0.5-3.5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the plant extract accounts for 0.5-5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the ceramide comprises a mixture of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4 and ceramide 6II, and the weight ratio is (1-2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (1-2).
As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the plant extract includes at least one of aloe vera leaf extract, sophora flavescens root extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, echinacea purpurea extract, dendrobium nobile stem extract, and phellodendron amurense bark extract.
As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the emollient comprises at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, squalane, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyethylene glycol-150 and jojoba seed oil.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the emulsion stabilizer includes at least one of microcrystalline wax, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium di (lauramide glutamine) lysine, stearic acid, and behenic acid.
As a preferable technical scheme, the preparation raw materials further comprise 0.05-1% of an aromatic, 0.1-1.5% of a coloring agent and 0.05-2.5% of an antioxidant in percentage by weight.
The second aspect of the invention provides a preparation method of the special repair cream, which at least comprises the following steps: mixing the raw materials according to the formula, heating, stirring and cooling.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the antioxidant effect of the extreme moisturizing cream of example 1 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Unless otherwise indicated, implicit from the context, or customary in the art, all parts and percentages herein are based on weight and the testing and characterization methods used are in step with the filing date of the present application. To the extent that a definition of a particular term disclosed in the prior art is inconsistent with any definitions provided herein, the definition of the term provided herein controls.
The technical features of the technical solutions provided by the present invention are further clearly and completely described below with reference to the specific embodiments, and the scope of protection is not limited thereto.
The words "preferred", "preferably", "more preferred", and the like, in the present invention, refer to embodiments of the invention that may provide certain benefits, under certain circumstances. However, other embodiments may be preferred, under the same or other circumstances. Furthermore, the recitation of one or more preferred embodiments does not imply that other embodiments are not useful, nor is it intended to exclude other embodiments from the scope of the invention. The sources of the components not mentioned in the present invention are all commercially available.
The inventor of the invention finds that after the intensive research for solving the problems, the invention provides the super-moisturizing repair cream and the preparation method thereof, the compound specific skin conditioner is adopted, and the raw materials are matched with each other for use and have multiple synergistic effects by controlling the proportion of panthenol, oat beta glucan, nicotinamide, saccharide isomerous body, yeast fermentation product filtrate, ceramide and plant extract in the skin conditioner, and the aloe barbadensis leaf extract, the sophora flavescens root extract, the lycium barbarum fruit extract, the echinacea purpurea extract, the dendrobium stem extract and the phellodendron bark extract are used as main plant extract components to realize the three-dimensional multi-effect skin nourishing, realize the water replenishing and brightening of the skin, and can penetrate into the deep skin to repair the damaged skin and enhance the elasticity of the skin, thereby realizing the skin sensitive to the skin and the skin damaged by the sun and further improving the elasticity of the skin, The method is also suitable for people who are easy to dry skin in winter.
The invention provides a special-moistening repair cream, which is prepared from the raw materials of a skin conditioner, an emollient, a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a pH regulator, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer and water; wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises at least one of panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, saccharomyces bifidus fermentation product filtrate, ceramide, and plant extracts.
The preparation raw materials of the super-moistening repair cream comprise, by weight, 5-25% of a skin conditioner, 1-10% of an emollient, 5-30% of a humectant, 0.1-3% of a thickening agent, 0.05-0.15% of a chelating agent, 0.05-0.15% of a pH regulator, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsifier, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsion stabilizer and the balance of water.
Preferably, the weight percentage of the panthenol in the raw materials for preparing the repair cream is 1-8%; the oat beta glucan accounts for 0.2-4% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the nicotinamide accounts for 2-7% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the sugar isomer accounts for 0.5-1% of the preparation raw material of the repair cream, and the secondary fission yeast fermentation product filtrate accounts for 4-6% of the preparation raw material of the repair cream; the ceramide accounts for 0.5-3.5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream in percentage by weight; the plant extract accounts for 0.5-5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream.
Panthenol is also known as panthenol or provitamin B5. Has effects of keeping moisture and nourishing skin. Similar to skin lipid membrane, is easy to absorb, permeate and infiltrate the cuticle on the surface of the skin, so that the skin is soft, and the dryness and roughness of the skin are improved. Repairing skin barrier, improving skin water locking ability, and enhancing natural moisture-keeping barrier of skin. The skin cell operation is maintained, the skin cell is stimulated to grow more, the moisture is relieved, and the capability of the skin for resisting the external stimulation is improved.
Beta- (1 → 3, 1 → 4) glucan in oat is called oat beta glucan for short, and is a non-starch polysaccharide existing in the cell walls of the endosperm and aleurone layer of oat. The oat beta glucan can deeply moisturize water and form a film on the surface of the skin to reduce the water loss of the skin, so that the moisturizing effect is achieved. The skin care product can also reduce fine wrinkles, improve the smoothness of the skin, improve the elasticity of the skin, improve the immune function of the skin, improve the tolerance of the skin and obviously improve the desquamation phenomenon. Can also promote the production of collagen, increase the regeneration capacity of damaged skin cells, have the defense effect on ultraviolet invasion, and can repair the skin after being sunburned.
Nicotinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is an amide compound of nicotinic acid, which has the effects of preventing the transfer of pigments to the skin surface and inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes. Nicotinamide accelerates DNA repair and effectively protects against UV damage. Besides, niacinamide can promote the production of collagen, improve fine lines and wrinkles on the skin surface and resist acne, and relieve the formation of comedo, acne and sebum.
The saccharide isomerate (saccharoide isomerate) is a water-locking magnetite and is colorless or yellowish transparent liquid extracted from a cane sugar complex. Has the functions of repairing epidermal cells, improving the skin moisturizing capability and having natural skin-friendly property. The moisture-retaining skin care product can help skin to firmly bind moisture, construct ultra-stable water storage capacity, strongly lock a moist healthy skin state like a magnet, maintain the water magnetic field capacity of the skin, and further deeply activate the skin. Under the synergistic effect of the compound, the compound not only makes the new keratinocytes healthier and the pores more detailed, but also can effectively repair the damaged cells and inject water into the skin more effectively.
Examples of the ceramide include ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6II, ceramide 7, ceramide 8, ceramide 9, and ceramide 10. In the present invention, among them, at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6II, and ceramide 7 is preferable, a mixture of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, and ceramide 6II is more preferable, and the weight ratio is preferably (1 to 2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (1-2).
Compared with the prior patent that N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di (phytosterol/2-octyl dodecyl) ester, glyceramide ethyl methacrylate/stearyl methacrylate copolymer, polyquaternary ammonium salt 51, N- (tetradecyloxy hydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxydecanoamide and other ceramides are usually selected as skin conditioners, the ceramide of the invention selects the combination of the five ceramides, has a structure similar to that of a substance forming a skin cuticle, can quickly permeate into the skin, helps to update a natural protective layer of the skin, forms a healthy skin protection function, and reduces water evaporation and loss. Meanwhile, the natural skin lipid membrane of the skin is intensively repaired, and the defense function of the barrier on the surface layer of the skin is strengthened. It also helps to promote keratinocyte metabolism, normalize skin natural exfoliation process, and recover skin smoothness and tenderness. Inhibiting secretion of active sebaceous gland, balancing water and oil of skin, and improving self-protecting function of skin.
The yeast product is yeast fermentation filtrate (BIFIDA FERMENT FILTRATE) derived from edible probiotic Bifidobacterium longum, and is obtained by culturing and filtering to obtain product containing multiple metabolite components. The secondary yeast fermentation product filtrate contains active ingredients such as various amino acids, lipids, polysaccharides, adenosine, vitamins, trace minerals, vitamin B groups and the like. Is safe to human body temperature and easy to be absorbed and utilized by skin. The active matter obtained by utilizing the biotechnology can help the skin to resist harmful pathogenic bacteria and maintain the micro-ecological balance of the skin surface; the skin care product can moisten and nourish the skin, regulate the skin immunity, and help the skin to resist the damage to the skin caused by external environment, oxidative stress and the like; meanwhile, can be promoted to increase the moisture content of the skin, reduce the water loss of the skin and enhance the barrier function of the skin. The product has effects of keeping moisture, repairing, brightening skin, removing wrinkle, and improving skin elasticity.
As the plant extract, at least one of aloe vera leaf extract, sophora flavescens root extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, echinacea purpurea extract, dendrobium nobile stem extract, barberry bark extract, agaricus extract, ophiopogon root extract, opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, gentian extract, barberry bark extract, gardenia fruit extract, hybrid rose extract, arbutin, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, artemisia capillaris flower extract, morus alba root extract, jujube fruit extract, scutellaria root extract, sweet orange fruit extract, witch hazel extract, horse chestnut seed extract, blueberry fruit extract, antlers carva japonica extract, palmleaf extract, sophora flavescens extract, opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, sweet maple extract, lemon fruit extract, bilberry/leaf extract, and sugarcane extract can be cited.
The plant extracts of the present invention are preferably aloe vera leaf extract, sophora flavescens root extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, echinacea purpurea extract, dendrobium stem extract, and phellodendron amurense bark extract. More preferably, the weight ratio of the aloe vera leaf extract, the sophora flavescens root extract, the lycium barbarum fruit extract, the echinacea purpurea extract, the dendrobium stem extract and the phellodendron amurense bark extract is (1-2): (1-2): (1-2): (1-2): (1-2): (1-2).
Aloe vera (scientific name: Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f.) is a plant of the genus Aloe of the family Liliaceae. Has short stem, upright without branch, large and thick leaves, fleshy and juicy, needle-shaped, wide base, two rows of leaves growing when the plant is young, and rosette shape after growing. The extract of the leaves of Aloe BARBADENSIS (Aloe BARBADENSIS) contains polysaccharides, vitamins and anthraquinones and has skin astringent, softening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and bleaching effects. It also has effects in relieving sclerosis and keratinization, improving scar, preventing wrinkle, eye pouch, and cutis laxa, keeping skin moist and delicate, treating skin inflammation, and treating acne, freckle, acne, scald, knife wound, and insect bite.
The radix sophorae flavescentis has multiple effects of whitening, diminishing inflammation, resisting acne, resisting bacteria and the like, is used for beautifying and protecting skin for hundreds of years, and is a popular cosmetic raw material for various large cosmeceutics. Radix Sophorae Flavescentis (Sophora FLAVESCENS) root extract containing matrine and cytisine has effects of clearing heat, promoting diuresis, resisting bacteria, relieving inflammation, and relieving dry and itching of skin.
Phytochemicals (phytochemicals) contained in extracts of the fruits of Lycium BARBARUM (Lycium BARBARUM) can help prevent oxidation of DNA and repair damaged DNA. This suggests that it may be an ideal ingredient in anti-aging products. In addition, the fructus Lycii extract also contains fructus Lycii polysaccharide and beta-carotene, which are highly effective antioxidants, and have effects in maintaining epithelial tissue growth and differentiation, and preventing xerosis cutis and follicular keratinization.
Echinacea purpurea (ECHINACEA PURPUREA) extract has effects of enhancing immunity, contains multiple active ingredients, and can stimulate activity of immunocyte such as leukocyte in human body, and improve immunity. Also contains triterpenes, and can be used for treating dermatitis and inhibiting skin induced allergy; can enhance the resistance of capillary vessel, inhibit capillary vessel permeability, and has antiinflammatory effect; simultaneously, the composition can eliminate free radicals, has oxidation resistance and has the effect of delaying aging; has certain inhibiting effect on melanocyte, and has effects of whitening skin and removing speckle. The Echinacea purpurea extract is suitable for 7 types of skin, such as sensitive skin, wrinkled skin, oily skin, tolerant skin, pigmented skin, non-pigmented skin, and dry skin.
Dendrobium nobile (Dendrobium nobile Lindl), also known as Dendrobium nobile, belongs to perennial epiphytic herbaceous orchidaceae, has thin and thick stem at two ends, flat whole branch and golden yellow color, is like the hairpin of ancient hairpin, and is called Dendrobium nobile. The stem extract of Dendrobium NOBILE (Dendrobium NOBILE) contains water soluble polysaccharide, is a natural antioxidant and immunopotentiator, has effects of significantly increasing SOD level of human body, and has significant effects in scavenging free radicals, resisting oxidation, and resisting aging.
Cortex Phellodendri (PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE) bark extract is yellow powder extract product of bark of PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE belonging to Rutaceae. Mainly contains berberine, and contains palmatine, phellodendrine, dauricine, sinomenine, phellodendron bark, etc. Can promote the generation of collagen, and has the function of anti-aging by combining the oxidation resistance; can inhibit hair growth, and can be used for treating skin hirsutism in combination with aromatase activation; has anti-inflammatory and odor inhibiting effects.
The skin conditioner of the present invention further comprises at least one of inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzylamide diacetate, cocoyl glucoside, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, tetrapeptide-4, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, sodium di (lauramidoglutamine) lysine, tocopheryl acetate, ergothioneine, vitamin C glucoside, magnesium vitamin C phosphate, sodium alginate, and propylene glycol alginate.
The skin conditioner can be directly mixed with other components to prepare the repair cream, or one or more of the skin conditioners can be respectively mixed to prepare a skin conditioner premix solution through pretreatment, and then the skin conditioner premix solution is mixed with other components to prepare the repair cream.
The inventor unexpectedly discovers that the skin conditioner premix solution is prepared by adding different skin conditioners into different solvents for mixing and pretreatment, so that the skin conditioner can form active microspheres in the subsequent preparation process of the repair cream, and the formed active microsphere structure can keep the stability and activity of the active ingredients of the skin conditioner for a long time; on the other hand, the active ingredients of the skin conditioner can be slowly released from the active microspheres, so that the comfort is improved, and the sustained release and long-term effectiveness of the active ingredients are ensured.
Preferably, the pre-mixed liquid of the secondary fission yeast fermentation product filtrate comprises the secondary fission yeast fermentation product filtrate, 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol.
Preferably, the oat beta-glucan premix comprises oat beta-glucan, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and octanediol.
Preferably, the premix of the glycerophosphoinositide choline salt and the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid comprises the glycerophosphoinositide choline salt, the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, sodium hyaluronate and water.
Preferably, the premix solution of the aloe vera leaf extract, the sophora alopecuroides root extract, the lycium barbarum fruit extract, the echinacea purpurea extract and the dendrobium stem extract comprises the aloe vera leaf extract, the sophora alopecuroides root extract, the lycium barbarum fruit extract, the echinacea purpurea extract, the dendrobium stem extract, glycerol glucoside, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and water.
Preferably, the premixed liquid of the coco glucoside, the palmitoyl tripeptide-8 and the tetrapeptide-4 comprises the coco glucoside, the palmitoyl tripeptide-8, the tetrapeptide-4, glycerol and water.
Preferably, the premix of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4 and ceramide 6II comprises ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 6II, hydrogenated lecithin and glycerol.
Preferably, the pre-mixed solution of the phellodendron amurense bark extract comprises the phellodendron amurense bark extract, butanediol and water.
Preferably, the premix of the sodium bis (lauramidoglutamine) lysine comprises the sodium bis (lauramidoglutamine) lysine and water.
The emollient of the present invention includes at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, squalane, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyethylene glycol-150, and jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil. Squalane uses a completely pure natural component of 100% olive oil origin, has a natural affinity with the skin, and easily penetrates the skin without oily feeling, while imparting a soft, silky feel to the skin.
The humectant of the present invention includes at least one of a polyol, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer. Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include: diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and the like; trihydric alcohols such as glycerin, trimethylolpropane, etc.; tetrahydric alcohols such as diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, and the like; pentahydric alcohols such as xylitol, triglycerin, and the like; hexahydric alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, and the like; and their polymers such as diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerols, and the like.
Polyol is often selected as the humectant in the prior art, but the dual moisturizing effect is lacked only by using the polyol as the humectant, and an amphiphilic molecule amino acid double-lock emulsification technology is adopted in the invention. The amphiphilic molecule amino acid double-lock emulsification technology enables the product to have the moisturizing feeling of brightening the skin color while having the moisturizing feeling of water, the product is moist but not oily, the product is double-moisturized, the product can be uniformly dispersed in essence water according to the particle size of about 0.7 mu m under a microscope, and the water nutrient component breaks the membrane and is discharged when the product is smeared. As the moisturizer of the present invention, preferred ones include butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer. The combination of the alcohol moisturizers butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate moisturizer sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate cross-linked polymer can form a multi-layer water locking and moisturizing layer, and can promote fatty acid components and amino acids in plant extracts to form an amphiphilic molecule amino acid structure, so that the emulsified repairing cream is hydrophilic and oleophilic, and can preserve moisture doubly, and water nourishing components break membranes during smearing to ensure that the product has water moistening feeling, also has skin brightening moistening feeling, is moist but not oily, and has better effects on the autumn and winter moistening and repairing of sensitive skin and large dry skin.
Examples of the thickener of the present invention include carbomer, xanthan gum, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymer, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene block copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, cationized cellulose, guar gum, locust bean gum, and carrageenan. Among these thickeners, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, sorbitan oleate, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer are preferable. As the thickener of the present invention, carbomer and xanthan gum are preferable.
Examples of the chelating agent of the present invention include disodium EDTA (disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate), nitrilotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, hydrolyzed polymaleic anhydride, fumaric acid (fumaric acid) -propylene sulfonic acid copolymer, and the like, and among these chelating agents, disodium EDTA is preferable.
Examples of the emulsifier of the present invention include PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, batyl alcohol, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, fatty acid soap, alkyl sulfate (sodium lauryl sulfate, alkylbenzene sulfonate (sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, phosphate, N-dodecyldimethylamine and other amine derivatives), quaternary ammonium salt, polyoxyethylene ether, polyoxypropylene ether, block copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, polyol fatty acid ester, polyvinyl alcohol, lecithin, lanolin, gum arabic, sorbitan monooleate, sucrose fatty acid ester, isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol isostearate, propylene glycol laurate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil and batyl alcohol are preferred.
In order to improve the stability of the essence particles formed in the emulsification process, the invention can adopt the conventional technology in the field or the D-phase emulsification technology in the emulsification process, and the preparation of stable emulsion by using polyalcohol is a method developed in the future, namely the D-phase emulsification method. Adopts the D-phase emulsification technology to generate essence particles (pore diameter is 20-50 μm) less than 1 μm, so that active nutrition is doubly permeated. The molecules are tiny and are uniformly distributed, the distribution is 10 times smaller than that of common molecules, the size of the molecules can reach 500 times of the cross section of the hair, and the absorption is facilitated. Has unique micro-emulsified liquid texture, good touch feeling and better absorption by skin. The phase D emulsification method is preferred in the present invention, and the emulsion stabilizer of the present invention includes at least one of microcrystalline wax, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium di (lauramide glutamine) lysine, stearic acid, and behenic acid. Preferably, the emulsifier comprises a mixture of microcrystalline wax, behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, and the weight ratio of the emulsion stabilizer to the emulsifier is (0.5-1.2): 1. The emulsifier can improve the stability of the emulsion in the process of repairing the cream under the action of microcrystalline wax, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and is beneficial to the uniform distribution of other effective components in the emulsion. In addition, the microcrystalline wax, the behenyl alcohol, the cetyl alcohol and the stearyl alcohol cover the periphery of the effective components to form a layer of protective film, so that the slow release and absorption of the effective components are improved in the using process, and the contact comfort is improved.
The super-moistening repair cream and the preparation method thereof comprise raw materials, by weight, 0.05-1% of an aromatic, 0.05-1.5% of a colorant and 0.05-2.5% of an antioxidant. Preferably, the aromatic is selected from natural essential oils, such as Pelargonium GRAVEOLENS (Pelargonium GRAVEOLENS) flower oil, Anthemis NOBILIS (Anthemis NOBILIS) flower oil, Cymbopogon CITRATUS (Cymbopogon CITRATUS) leaf oil, Rose Benth essential oil, Osmanthus fragrans essential oil, the colorant is selected from natural pigments or plant extract dyeings, such as caramel color, beet red, carmine, Monascus red, sorghum red, Gardenia yellow; the plant extract dyeing substance includes anthocyanidin, xanthophyll, phycocyanin, carotene, and carotenoid.
Examples of the antioxidant of the present invention include p-hydroxyacetophenone, ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, α -tocopherol, β -tocopherol, γ -tocopherol, δ -tocopherol, α -tocotrienol, β -tocotrienol, γ -tocotrienol, δ -tocotrienol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin E, tocopherol nicotinate, 6-hydroxy-2, 5, 7, 8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid, N-acetylcysteine, α -ribonic acid, dehydroribonic acid, glutathione, uric acid, dihydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, dibutylhydroxytoluene, isoascorbic acid, Glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium erythorbate, gallic acid, propyl gallate, tannic acid, catechin, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, protocatechuic acid, rice bran extract, quercetin (quercetin), epicatechin acid salt, carnosol, sesamol, sesamin, sesamolin, zingerone, gingerol, capsaicinoid, vanillylamide, texas acid, bromophenol, aspergillis glaucor yellow, melanoidin, retinol, dehydroretinol, vitamin A oil, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinal, retinoic acid, riboflavin butyrate, flavin mononucleotide, flavin adenine dinucleotide, superoxide dismutase, ubiquinol, ubiquinone, catalase, glutathione peroxidase, catalase iron oxide enzyme, metallothionein, ceruloplasmin, transferrin, lactoferrin, catechin, caffeoylurea, quercetin, alpha-isoascorbate, quercetin, and alpha-isoquercitrin, Bilirubin, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, phytic acid, histidine, tryptophan, O-phosphono-pyridoxoylidene rhodamine. Among these antioxidants, ascorbic acid is preferred.
The second aspect of the invention provides the above-mentioned special repair cream and the preparation method thereof, which at least comprises the following steps: mixing the raw materials according to the formula, heating, stirring and cooling.
Detailed Description
The present invention is described in detail below with reference to examples, which are provided for the purpose of further illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention, and the insubstantial modifications and adaptations thereof by those skilled in the art based on the teachings of the present invention will still fall within the scope of the present invention.
In addition, the starting materials used are all commercially available, unless otherwise specified.
Example 1
The first aspect of example 1 provides a moisturizing cream, and the raw materials for preparation are shown in the table 1-1 in percentage by mass.
TABLE 1-1
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000071
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000081
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000091
A second aspect of example 1 provides a method of making a moisturizing cream and a method of making the same, comprising the steps of:
first, the components of each phase in the table 1-2 are prepared according to the formula in the table 1-1
Tables 1 to 2
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000101
Then the preparation method comprises the following steps:
1. prefabrication a2, B2, B3, B4, B5, B6, B7, C2, C3: heating A2 phase to 90-95 deg.C, stirring, dissolving, and keeping the temperature at 80 deg.C; soaking B2 phase in sterilized water; b3 phase is stirred, moistened and dispersed evenly; heating the B4 phase to 70 ℃ until the dissolution is complete; dissolving B5 phase with high-temperature sterilized water to obtain transparent solution; heating the B7 phase to 45 ℃, and stirring to dissolve uniformly; the C2 phase is uniformly dissolved by the sterilized deionized water with 60 degrees; dissolving the C3 phase with sterilized cold deionized water;
2. mixing the A1 phase, heating to 60 deg.C, stirring, adding the treated A2 phase, homogenizing for 25 min until the mixture becomes semitransparent, adding the A3 phase hot water, homogenizing at medium speed for 8 min until the mixture becomes milky white, and keeping the temperature at 70 deg.C for use;
3. heating the B1 phase to 85 ℃, adding the B3 phase for homogenization for 2 minutes under the condition of homogenization, adding the B2 phase for stirring and homogenization for 4-5 minutes until the mixture is uniformly dispersed, stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation, defoaming, completely cooling, cooling to 70 ℃, adding the treated B4 phase for stirring for 5 minutes, continuously cooling to 50 ℃, and preserving heat for later use;
4. filtering the A1+ A2+ A3 phase, pumping into the B1+ B2+ B3+ B4 phase, stirring for 20 minutes until the mixture is uniformly dispersed, and continuously cooling;
5. cooling to 45 ℃, adding B5, B6, B7, C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5, stirring for 10 minutes until the mixture is uniformly dispersed, taking a plate, filtering and discharging, and aging a material body for 24 hours to obtain the ultra-moist repair cream.
Example 2
Example 2 is similar to example 1, but the starting materials are prepared in percentages by mass, see table 2
TABLE 2
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000111
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000121
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000131
Example 3
Example 3 is similar to example 1, but the starting materials were prepared in mass percent, see table 3.
TABLE 3
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000132
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000141
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000151
Example 4
Example 4 is similar to example 1, but the starting materials were prepared in mass percent, see table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000152
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000161
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000171
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 is similar to example 1, but the starting materials were prepared in mass percent, see table 5.
TABLE 5
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000172
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000181
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000191
Comparative example 2
Comparative example 2 is similar to example 1, but the starting materials were prepared in mass percent, see table 6.
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000192
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000201
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000211
The plant extracts described in the above examples are commercially available and are not particularly limited.
Evaluation of Performance
1. Evaluation of high temperature stability: the obtained repair creams of the embodiments are respectively placed at 45 ℃ for 1 month to observe whether the repair cream changes, if the repair cream generates the clotting phenomenon, the change is recorded as O. The test results are shown in Table 4.
2. Skin elasticity test: 30 healthy volunteers aged 25-40 years were selected, and the volunteers used the treatment cream on the left face and the right face respectively in the morning and evening every day for 4 weeks. The average of the skin elasticity improvement rates was measured using MPA 580. The test results are shown in Table 4.
3. And (4) water replenishing test: selecting 30 healthy volunteers aged 25-40 years, coating the volunteers with the repair cream at fixed positions once a day in the morning and at night for 4 weeks, testing the average water content of the stratum corneum of the coated part before the repair cream is used and the average water content of the stratum corneum of the coated part after the repair cream is used for 4 weeks by using a skin water tester Corneometer CM825, and calculating the water content increase rate. The test results are shown in Table 4.
4. Skin firmness test: selecting 30 healthy volunteers aged 25-40 years, coating the volunteers with a repair cream once a day in the morning and evening at fixed positions for 4 weeks, testing the skin firmness R0 by using a skin elasticity tester Cutomer dual MPA580, wherein the lower the R0 value is, the firmer the skin is, and calculating the reduction rate of the skin firmness R0 after 4 weeks of use. The test results are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000212
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000221
5. Skin roughness test: 30 female volunteers 30-60 years old, who were subjected to double-blind, in vivo experiments, with normal, dry and sensitive skin smeared with the product of example 1 2 times a day for 4 weeks, and were analyzed on the skin surface by SELS (skin microscope and surface analysis system), 5 parameters: roughness, peeling, smoothness, wrinkles and number.
By test analysis, the average skin roughness decreased by 86% after 4 weeks using the product of example 1.
6. And (3) oxidation resistance test: a female volunteer with UV spots was selected and applied with the product of example 1 2 times daily for 4 weeks, and the left and right faces were examined using a VISIA skin test instrument, respectively, as shown in fig. 1.
The UV spots are mainly caused by UV irradiation and reflect the melanin generation condition of the basal layer of the skin, and the figure shows that the product of the example 1 of the application can obviously improve the UV spots, and the UV spots are reduced by 8 percent after 4 weeks.
7. And (3) irritation test:
the test substance: special moisturizer of example 1
Negative control: blank space
Subject: 30 persons, male 0 person and female 30 persons in total, the age is 22-60 years, the average age is 36 +/-9.3 years, and the selection criteria of volunteers of the subjects are met
The test method comprises the following steps: the selection area is not more than 50mm 2 A suitable spot tester with a depth of about 1mm, using a closed patch test method, adding about 0.020-0.025ml (g) of the test substance to the spot tester, applying the spot tester to the back of the subject, removing the test substance after 24h, observing the skin reaction at 0.5, 24 and 48h after removal, and recording the result according to the skin reaction grading standard in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety 2015.
And (3) testing results: the results of the human skin patch experiments showed that the skin reactions of 30 subjects were negative at 3 observation time points of 0.5h, 24h and 48h after removal.
The specific test results are as follows:
in the human body skin patch test, the skin reaction grading standard is as follows:
grade of rating Skin reactions
0 Negative reaction
1 Carrying out suspicious reaction; only weak erythema
2 Weak positive reaction (erythema reaction); erythema, infiltrates, edema, and possibly papules
3 Strong positive reaction (herpes reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, pimples, herpes; the reaction can exceed the tested area
4 Very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction); obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, fusional herpes; reaction beyond the test area
The cosmetic human skin patch test results are as follows:
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000222
the skin reactions of the subjects at different time points were as follows:
Figure RE-GDA0003251501350000231

Claims (10)

1. the super-moistening repair cream is characterized in that the preparation raw materials comprise a skin conditioner, an emollient, a humectant, a thickening agent, a chelating agent, a pH regulator, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer and water; wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises at least one of panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, split yeast fermentation product filtrate, ceramide, and plant extract.
2. The repair cream of claim 1, wherein the preparation raw materials comprise, by weight, 5-25% of a skin conditioner, 1-10% of an emollient, 5-30% of a humectant, 0.1-3% of a thickener, 0.05-0.15% of a chelating agent, 0.05-0.15% of a pH regulator, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsifier, 0.05-2.5% of an emulsion stabilizer, and the balance of water.
3. The cream of claim 2, wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises a mixture of panthenol, oat beta glucan, niacinamide, saccharide isomerate, yeast bifidus fermentation product filtrate, ceramides, and plant extracts.
4. The repair cream of claim 3, wherein the panthenol is present in an amount of 1-8% by weight based on the base material for preparing the repair cream; the oat beta glucan accounts for 0.2-4% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the nicotinamide accounts for 2-7% of the mass of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the sugar isomer accounts for 0.5-1% of the preparation raw material of the repair cream, and the secondary fission yeast fermentation product filtrate accounts for 4-6% of the preparation raw material of the repair cream; the ceramide accounts for 0.5-3.5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream; the plant extract accounts for 0.5-5% of the raw materials for preparing the repair cream.
5. The repair cream of claim 4, wherein the ceramide comprises a mixture of ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4 and ceramide 6II in a weight ratio of (1-2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2): (1-2).
6. The repair cream of claim 3, wherein the plant extract comprises at least one of aloe vera leaf extract, sophora flavescens root extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, echinacea purpurea extract, dendrobium stem extract, and phellodendron amurense bark extract.
7. The repair cream of claim 2 wherein the emollient comprises at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, squalane, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyethylene glycol-150, jojoba seed oil.
8. The repair cream of claim 2 wherein the emulsion stabilizer comprises at least one of microcrystalline wax, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium di (lauramidoglutamine) lysine, stearic acid, behenic acid.
9. The repair cream of claim 2, wherein the raw materials further comprise, by weight, 0.05 to 1% of a fragrance, 0.1 to 1.5% of a colorant, and 0.05 to 2.5% of an antioxidant.
10. The method of preparing a moisturizing cream according to any of claims 1-9, comprising at least the steps of: mixing the raw materials according to the formula, heating, stirring and cooling.
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