CN114599829A - 复合弹力纱、伸缩性织物及复合弹力纱的制造方法 - Google Patents
复合弹力纱、伸缩性织物及复合弹力纱的制造方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明揭示一种由复合弹力纱、织物及复合弹力纱的制造方法,该复合弹力纱包括由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部,在此,弹力芯纱具有依据ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性,依据本发明,能解决牛仔布用织物表面上发生的起皱(puckering)问题而得以改善触感并提高最终产品的质量。
Description
技术领域
本发明揭示一种复合弹力纱、伸缩性织物及复合弹力纱的制造方法,更具体地,复合弹力纱的芯纱使用长丝之间粘合力较低的低粘合弹力纱而解决了面料形态下的起皱(puckering)问题。
背景技术
用于牛仔布的伸缩性面料纺织成以氨纶纤维(Spandex)作为芯纱的复合弹力纱。复合弹力纱则由芯部(core section)和覆盖芯部的护层部(sheath section)构成。一般来说,用于牛仔布的面料内复合弹力纱的芯纱使用单芯或双芯弹力纱而赋予牛仔布织物伸缩性。单芯指的是芯纱适用一束弹力纱,双芯指的是芯纱适用两束弹力纱与聚酯二元纤维。
作为一例,美国专利第8,093,160号揭示了一种弹力芯纱与包含该弹力芯纱的伸缩性牛仔布,该弹力芯纱包括由一个以上的弹力芯纱与一个以上的非弹力芯纱构成的芯部及纵向包裹芯部地排列的短纤维护层部。但利用该技术得到的伸缩性牛仔布却无法提供适当水平的伸缩性,而且包含短纤维的护层部上可用的纱的厚度受到了限制。
复合弹力纱及其制造方法广为人知。例如,美国专利第4,470,250号、第4,998,403号、第7,134,265号、第6,848,151号揭示了弹力纤维芯被非弹力纤维覆盖的复合弹力纱。
以现有的复合弹力纱制作牛仔布织物的话,较薄的棉纱无法完全覆盖芯部,作为护层部的面纱与芯纱之间用于粘合的表面积较少而使得芯纱与面纱无法充分粘合。在这种情形下,以后制成牛仔布面料及制成衣服(garment)后会发生复合弹力纱的芯纱和护层部分离而脱落的滑移(slippage)现象。滑移现象导致面料内具有弹性的芯纱脱落的话,面料就会发生表面坑坑洼洼凹陷形态的起皱(puckering)问题。牛仔布织物表面的起皱现象影响衣服(garment)形态的外观而导致产品不良,因此在制作牛仔布面料时需要解决起皱问题。
目前为止人们还没有开发出可解决基于复合弹力纱的伸缩性面料的起皱问题的原纱及织物生产技术。
发明内容
本发明旨在解决前述现有技术的问题,本发明的一个目的是把长丝之间粘合力较低的弹力纱适用于复合弹力纱的芯部而解决牛仔布织物表面上发生的起皱(puckering)问题。
本发明的另一个目的是以一个单一线轴(bobbin)所供应的2束以上的弹力纱构成芯部而使得使用芯纱的织物具有高伸缩性并且提供显著提高了弹力复原性的复合弹力纱。
本发明的再一个目的是解决伸缩性织物的最终产品上发生的起皱问题而提升产品的品味并提高使用时的触感。
为了达到所述目的,本发明的一个形态揭示一种复合弹力纱,其包括由弹力芯纱(core filament)构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部,在此,弹力芯纱具有以ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝(filament)之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。
所述弹力芯纱相比于同一纤度的通用弹力芯纱具有1.5%至22%的长丝之间粘合力。
所述芯部能由聚氨酯、聚氨酯脲、或者聚氨酯与聚氨酯脲的共混物构成,所述护层部能由选自羊毛、亚麻、丝绸、聚酯、尼龙、烯烃、棉、天丝、莫代尔、聚粘胶(poly-viscose)及其组合所构成的群组的硬质纱构成。本发明中芯纱的纤度可以是40旦(denier)至120旦。
本发明的另一个形态揭示一种织物,经纱及纬纱中一个以上包含具有由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部的复合弹力纱,在此,所述弹力芯纱具有以ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。本发明的织物可以作为牛仔布用途或非牛仔布用途使用。
本发明的再一个形态揭示一种复合弹力纱的制造方法,包括下列步骤:在弹力芯纱纺丝后,进行第一次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为500至1500mg,接着,进行第二次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为9至198mg,然后卷曲制造低粘合芯纱;以短纤维粗纱披敷前一步骤所得低粘合芯纱地进行纺织。
可以在所述第一次交络步骤把空气流量设定为3~4L/min并且把温度设定为35~30℃后进行第一次交络,可以在第二次交络步骤把空气流量设定为1~2L/min并且把温度设定为15~20℃后进行交络。
本发明的效果如下。
本发明在复合弹力纱的芯部原纱适用单一弹力纱并且把长丝之间粘合力较低的弹力纱作为芯纱使用,从而解决了把一般单芯纱或双芯纱作为芯纱使用时牛仔布织物表面上发生的起皱问题。
而且,依据本发明的制造方法,凭借着添加了第一次及第二次空气交络工序的纺丝工艺能制造出防止复合弹力纱的原纱物性劣化及断丝化(filamentation)现象并且原纱内长丝束之间的粘合力较低的低粘合氨纶纤维原纱。
本发明的织物由于改善了织物表面上发生的起皱问题而提高了其表面品味,凭此,赋予使用者舒适的使用感。与此同时,适用了本发明的低粘合芯纱后获得的最终产品具有高弹力特性、显著改善的弹力恢复性特性及形状维持特性。
附图说明
图1是本发明一个实施例的复合弹力纱的芯纱制造装置的概略图。
图2是本发明一个实施例的复合弹力纱制造装置的概略图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图详细说明本发明。
本申请及权利要求书所使用的下述术语如下定义。
在本发明,“长丝(filament)”表示长的纤维束,“短纤维(staple fiber)”表示长度有限或长度短的纤维束。
在本发明,“弹力芯纱”表示具有超过100%的断裂延伸率的长丝,优选例是氨纶纤维。
在本发明所使用的术语“复合弹力纱”表示让纤维覆盖弹力芯纱周围地制造的包芯纱(“core-spun yarn”)。
在本发明,“长丝之间粘合力”指的是把原纱内的一个长丝分离成1cm以上的长度后把分离的长丝的端部挂到粘合力测量装置(Lenzing Instruments GmbH&Co.KG公司产品,Vibrodyn 400)再以一定的拉伸率拉伸并且按照ASTM D3822-07方法(单一织物纤维的拉伸性质的标准试验方法(Standard test methods for tensile properties of singletextile fibers)")测量纤维断裂强度的值(mg)。
本发明揭示的复合弹力纱是包括由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部的复合弹力纱,在此,弹力芯纱具有以ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。
所述弹力芯纱可以是相比于同一纤度的通用弹力芯纱具有1.5%至22%的较低粘合力的低粘合弹力芯纱。例如,一般通用的氨纶纤维80D原纱的长丝之间粘合力是700~900mg左右,与此相比,本发明的低粘合弹力芯纱在80D时具有大约9mg至198mg的长丝之间粘合力。
在本发明,芯纱的长丝之间粘合力相比于同一纤度的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力低于1.5%时,过低的粘合力可能会导致原纱内长丝分离的断丝化现象。另一方面,芯纱的长丝之间粘合力相比于同一纤度的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力超过22%时,无法赋予足够的表面积在覆盖工序中和作为护层部的棉纱接触并粘合,因此制作成面料形态时可能会发生起皱现象。
所述芯部能由聚氨酯、聚氨酯脲、或者聚氨酯与聚氨酯脲的共混物构成的弹力芯纱构成。
所述护层部可以是天然纤维,例如,可以是棉、羊毛、亚麻、丝绸、天丝、莫代尔。作为替代方案,护层部可以是单一成分的短(staple)合成纤维。作为一例,所述护层部可以是选自聚酯、尼龙、烯烃、聚粘胶(poly-viscose)、聚丙烯腈、变性聚丙烯腈、人造丝及它们的任意组合所组成的群组的纤维。在本发明,优选地,护层部包含棉纱。
本发明的复合弹力纱中所述芯纱的纤度是40旦至120旦。芯纱的纤度低于40旦时会形成相比于牛仔布用途的一般织物较薄的牛仔布织物而在穿戴时会降低身材矫正效果并且服饰仪态不佳。另一方面,芯纱的纤度超过了120旦时会形成相比于牛仔布用途的一般织物较厚的牛仔布织物而给予硬直厚重的感觉而降低了衣服的穿戴感。
本发明还揭示了复合弹力纱的制造方法。在本发明,在弹力芯纱纺丝后,进行第一次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为500至1500mg,接着,进行第二次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为9至198mg,然后卷曲制造低粘合芯纱,接着,以短纤维粗纱披敷所获得的低粘合芯纱进行纺织而得以制造复合弹力纱。
本发明的复合弹力纱是芯纱与护层在纺织装置通过环锭纺纱(ring spinning)或自由端纺纱(open-end spinning)纺织制造的。
氨纶纤维原纱通常在纺丝筒内较高温度下通过干式纺纱制造。此时,氨纶纤维原纱在纺丝后成为受热的状态而使得模量降低并且成为适合造成原纱扭结的温度,在引纱工序通过空气交络喷嘴赋予长丝之间粘合力进行卷曲。为了解决牛仔布织物面料内的起皱问题而需要制造粘合力较低的原纱时,可以在原纱纺丝工序中降低空气交络喷嘴所赋予的压力而制成粘合力低的原纱。但通过前述纺丝工序降低原纱的粘合力的话所生产的原纱物性会发生强度劣化的问题,还会发生原纱内长丝束分离的断丝化(filamentation)现象而导致原纱不良问题。
在本发明,对于芯纱纺丝工序内赋予粘合力的空气交络喷嘴(以下称为“交络喷嘴”),针对使用一个交络喷嘴的现有纺丝工艺,适用了分两个阶段赋予粘合力的第一及第二交络喷嘴而得以解决最终面料的起皱问题。
第一交络喷嘴14通过和现有氨纶纤维纺丝工艺一样的方法调节压力与温度而以空气让原纱通过。一般交络喷嘴空气流量是3~4L/min而温度则是35~30℃,本发明的第一交络喷嘴14的空气流量及温度和前述现有条件相同。第一交络喷嘴14给予空气时让原纱粘合成两束大长丝束地进行调节。
在本发明,第二交络喷嘴15对通过了第一交络喷嘴的原纱束赋予低温及低压并让其通过而最终制成具有低粘合力的低粘合弹力芯纱。更具体地,通过了第一交络喷嘴14的原纱以粘合成两束大长丝束的形态存在,在第二交络喷嘴15以流量1~2L/min及温度15~20℃的空气驱使原纱通过而为两个长丝束之间赋予非常低的粘合力地制造。例如,如果是80旦/6长丝的产品的话,通过了第一交络喷嘴14后成为40旦/3长丝的两束,在第二交络喷嘴15让低温低压空气通过而为两束之间赋予较低粘合力。通过前面说明的所述第一阶段及第二阶段的含空气交络喷嘴的纺丝工艺,能制造出既不会发生氨纶纤维原纱物性劣化及断丝化问题又能让原纱内长丝束间粘合力较低的低粘合氨纶纤维原纱。
低粘合弹力芯纱21是由芯纱制造装置10获得的,复合弹力纱40则是由复合弹力纱纺织装置30制造的。
图1概略示出了本发明一个实施例的复合弹力纱的芯纱制造装置。请参阅图1,为了得到低粘合弹力芯纱21而使用的芯纱制造装置10基本包括干式纺丝单元11、在干式纺丝单元11后续接连提供的导引缸12、吸油辊轮(oil pickup roller)13、卷曲装置16、以及和所述卷曲装置16相关的线轴17。
为了制造低粘合弹力芯纱21,线在干式纺丝单元11把聚氨酯脲聚合物予以纺丝成弹力纱20形态。接着,所得到的弹力纱20则通过吸油辊轮13并凭借导引缸12通过第一交络喷嘴14与第二交络喷嘴15后被传递到卷曲装置16。吸油辊轮13为了妥当地卷曲弹力纱20而在没有振荡与震动的情形下传递弹力纱20。传递给卷曲装置16的弹力纱20则卷绕到线轴17。
接着,如图2所概略图示者,卷绕了低粘合弹力芯纱21的线轴17被供应到复合弹力纱纺织装置30。复合弹力纱纺织装置30基本包括粗纱31、所述粗纱31通过的引纱缸32、接受薄粗纱31及来自线轴17的低粘合弹力芯纱21的前导引缸33、和所述前导引缸33连续地提供的纱导件34及纺丝单元35。所述纺丝单元35包括环351、移动单元352及管纱(cop)353。让粗纱31在引纱缸32之间通过,从线轴17往前导引缸33供应低粘合弹力芯纱21,和被引出的粗纱31结合,从纱导件34供应薄粗纱31与低粘合弹力芯纱21而构成顺畅的流动,面向纺丝单元35并且在纺丝单元35让环351与纱移动单元352一起动作而将薄粗纱31卷绕到低粘合弹力芯纱21,在管纱353上纺丝及卷曲而制造复合弹力纱40。
可以通过该过程得到具有芯皮结构的复合弹力纱。通过该过程得到的复合弹力纱是粗纱31覆盖在低粘合弹力芯纱21上的结构。在本发明,用于芯部的弹力纱20是由单一线轴所供应的2端(end)以上的弹力纱制造的。如前所述地在芯部使用含有单一线轴所供应的氨纶纤维之类弹力纱的多个端(end)的话,能提高使用芯纱的织物之类的最终产品的弹性及弹性恢复率。
为了提供高弹性而从个别线轴供应包含在芯纱结构的弹力纱20的话,会在氨纶纤维之间诱发张力差,从而形成不均匀的芯纱结构。在本发明所揭示的芯纱中,高弹性是由芯部的单一线轴17以多个端(end)所供应的多个弹力纱20成分实现的。因此,能得到具有高均匀性的芯纱。
本发明另外还揭示了伸缩性织物。本发明的织物中,经纱及纬纱中一个以上包含具有由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部的复合弹力纱,在此,所述弹力芯纱具有以ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。本发明的织物的用途可以是牛仔布用途或非牛仔布用织物用途。
本发明的复合弹力纱可用于制造织物、编织物、无纺布等,优选地,可用于牛仔布用伸缩性织物。在此,织物可制成包含平织、府绸(poplin)、斜织(twill)、牛津织(oxford)、花织(dobby)、缎织(sateen)、缎子(satin)及其组合的各种织造样式。
本发明的伸缩性织物可以是伸展率为20~50%而伸展复原率为90~97%。织物可以只有纬纱呈现伸缩性或者双向呈现伸缩性,在此,在经纱及纬纱两个方向都呈现有用的伸缩性及弹力恢复性特性。
下面结合实施例详细说明本发明。该实施例仅仅是例示出本发明而已,下面的实施例不能被阐释为限制本发明的范围。
实施例
实施例1
按照下述方法制造了作为复合弹力纱的芯纱使用的氨纶纤维原纱。纺丝筒内高温使得氨纶纤维原纱在纺丝后成为受热状态而成为适合造成原纱扭结的温度并被引出。此时,一面通过第一交络喷嘴一面赋予空气,氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力形成属于80D通用氨纶纤维粘合力值范围的870mg。之后,在卷曲过程中通过第二空气交络喷嘴时赋予低温低压空气而使得氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力被测出作为80D的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力值800mg的5%的40mg。
硬质纱使用棉纱16支数原纱,前面制造的低粘合弹力芯纱则作为芯纱使用。用来制造复合弹力纱中用于纬纱的复合弹力纱的氨纶纤维的DR(伸展程度)制成3.5倍。
经纱则使用纯棉11支数纺织纱纺织了面料。利用该复合弹力纱纺织面料时作为纬纱投入了复合弹力纱,投入经纱的纺织纱则不另行进行伸展地予以并轴(beaming)后使用。使用所述复合弹力纱制造斜纹面料后,确认了在进行面料水洗前织物的宽度是平均144~149cm而水洗后织物的宽度是120~125cm。通过前述工序制造了面料后按照通常的方法经过染色工序制成样品。
对复合弹力纱的芯纱的原纱特性及面料形态下的起皱发生与否进行评估后列示于下述表1。
实施例2
用于制造牛仔布织物的复合弹力纱的芯纱适用了长丝之间粘合力较低的弹力纱。此时,通过了第一交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是属于80D通用氨纶纤维粘合力值范围的880mg,通过了第二空气交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力被测出是作为80D的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力值的700mg的2%的14mg。
除了如前所述地芯纱不同以外,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
实施例3
用于制造牛仔布织物的复合弹力纱的芯纱适用了长丝之间粘合力较低的弹力纱。此时,通过了第一交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是属于80D通用氨纶纤维粘合力值范围的870mg,通过了第二空气交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力被测出是作为80D的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力值的900mg的22%的198mg。
除了如前所述地芯纱不同以外,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
比较例1
除了用于制造牛仔布织物的复合弹力纱的芯纱使用了不通过第一、第二空气交络喷嘴而只通过第一交络喷嘴地制造的通用氨纶纤维80D之外,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
比较例2
除了复合弹力纱的芯纱适用了50D的非弹力纤维与70D的氨纶纤维的双芯纱(120D)之外,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
比较例3
通过第一交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是属于80D通用氨纶纤维粘合力值范围的870mg而通过了第二空气交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是80D的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力值700mg的1%的7mg,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
比较例4
通过第一交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是属于80D通用氨纶纤维粘合力值范围的890mg而通过了第二空气交络喷嘴后氨纶纤维原纱的长丝之间粘合力是80D的通用氨纶纤维的粘合力值900mg的25.5%的230mg,其余则和实施例1相同地实施并制造了复合弹力纱及织物后,进行物性评估并将其结果一起列示在表1。
试验例
按照下述方法评估了实施例及比较例所得到的复合弹力纱及面料的物性。鉴于测量范围误差,分别测量20个样品后求得除最高值与最低值之外的中间值的平均值。此时,各试片在23℃及65%相对湿度下进行状态调节(conditioning)14小时后进行了评估。
[纤维的粘合力评估方法]
利用粘合力测量装置(Lenzing Instruments GmbH&Co.KG公司产品,Vibrodyn400)依据ASTM D3822-07测量了实施例中得到的复合弹力纱内长丝之间粘合力。测量方法如下,在原纱用指尖分离出一个长丝并且成为大约1cm以上的长度的话,把分离出来的一束长丝与没有分离而留下的长丝的各末端挂在一个测量纤维拉伸强度的测量仪(LENZING公司制造,Vibrodyn-400),然后以1,000%/分钟的一定速度拉伸,在分离出来的一束长丝和留下的长丝由于拉伸而分离时测量了力(mg)。
[纤维的强度及拉伸率评估方法]
利用自动强度拉伸率测量装置(制造厂商:Textechno,型号名:MEL)以load cell32cN、试料长度10cm、拉伸速度100cm/min的条件测量了原纱内长丝之间强度及拉伸率。此时,测量了断裂时的强度与拉伸率值。
[起皱发生与否]
纺织面料后以肉眼评估了起皱的发生与否。
表1
可从所述表1的结果得知,适用了本发明的复合弹力纱时面料没有发生起皱而且弹性回复率也优异。与此相比,比较例1、2及4则发生了起皱,比较例3发生了多起原纱断头而无法制造织物也无法进行物性评估。
前文详细说明了本发明的优选实现例,但前述说明仅仅是例示而已,具有一般知识的技术人员应知能在不脱离本发明主旨的情形下进行变形与修改,这些变形与修改应全部阐释为属于本发明的真正权利范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
包括由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部,在此,弹力芯纱具有依据ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。
2.根据权利要求1所述的复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
所述弹力芯纱相比于同一纤度的通用弹力芯纱具有1.5%至22%的长丝之间粘合力。
3.根据权利要求1所述的复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
所述芯部由聚氨酯、聚氨酯脲、或者聚氨酯与聚氨酯脲的共混物构成。
4.根据权利要求1所述的复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
所述护层部选自羊毛、亚麻、丝绸、聚酯、尼龙、烯烃、棉、天丝、莫代尔、聚粘胶(poly-viscose)及其组合所构成的群组。
5.根据权利要求1所述的复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
所述芯纱的纤度是40旦至120旦。
6.根据权利要求1所述的复合弹力纱,其特征在于,
所述弹力芯纱在卷曲之前进行交络两次,在第二次交络以相比于第一次交络步骤较低的压力及温度下进行空气交络地制造。
7.一种织物,其特征在于,
经纱及纬纱中一个以上包含具有由弹力芯纱构成的芯部与由包裹所述芯部并且以短纤维构成的护层部的复合弹力纱,在此,所述弹力芯纱具有依据ASTM D3822方法测量时长丝之间粘合力为9至198mg范围内的低粘合特性。
8.一种复合弹力纱的制造方法,其特征在于,
包括下列步骤:
在弹力芯纱纺丝后,进行第一次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为500至1500mg,接着,进行第二次交络让长丝之间粘合力成为9至198mg,然后卷曲制造低粘合芯纱;以短纤维粗纱披敷前一步骤所得低粘合芯纱地进行纺织。
9.根据权利要求8所述的复合弹力纱的制造方法,其特征在于,
所述方法包括下述步骤,
把空气流量设定为3~4L/min并且把温度设定为35~30℃后在第一交络喷嘴进行第一次交络,接着,把空气流量设定为1~2L/min并且把温度设定为15~20℃后在第二交络喷嘴进行第二次交络。
10.根据权利要求8所述的复合弹力纱的制造方法,其特征在于,
以下述方式制造,
让所述弹力芯纱相比于同一纤度的通用弹力芯纱具有1.5%至22%的长丝之间粘合力。
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