CN113786349A - 角蛋白处理制剂和方法 - Google Patents
角蛋白处理制剂和方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113786349A CN113786349A CN202111054292.3A CN202111054292A CN113786349A CN 113786349 A CN113786349 A CN 113786349A CN 202111054292 A CN202111054292 A CN 202111054292A CN 113786349 A CN113786349 A CN 113786349A
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- formulation
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- active agent
- alkyl
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 239
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 209
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title abstract description 61
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title abstract description 23
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title abstract description 23
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 251
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 146
- -1 -CONHR)1) Chemical class 0.000 claims description 63
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 55
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 38
- 125000001072 heteroaryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 29
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 22
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 22
- 125000000753 cycloalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 21
- 125000000524 functional group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 16
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 15
- 150000002367 halogens Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 125000000592 heterocycloalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 15
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 14
- 125000000304 alkynyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 125000005647 linker group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 12
- 125000000392 cycloalkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 12
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004043 oxo group Chemical group O=* 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000003396 thiol group Chemical group [H]S* 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
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- 125000003368 amide group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- VHJLVAABSRFDPM-QWWZWVQMSA-N dithiothreitol Chemical compound SC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CS VHJLVAABSRFDPM-QWWZWVQMSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical class [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- PMNLUUOXGOOLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-mercaptopropanoic acid Chemical compound CC(S)C(O)=O PMNLUUOXGOOLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000002485 formyl group Chemical group [H]C(*)=O 0.000 claims description 4
- HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium disulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])(=O)=O HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940001584 sodium metabisulfite Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000010262 sodium metabisulphite Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 206010007134 Candida infections Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910018828 PO3H2 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000012038 nucleophile Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002431 hydrogen Chemical class 0.000 claims 3
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-REOHCLBHSA-N L-Cysteine Chemical compound SC[C@H](N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfurous acid Chemical class OS(O)=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- UFULAYFCSOUIOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteamine Chemical compound NCCS UFULAYFCSOUIOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteine Natural products SCC(N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 235000018417 cysteine Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- VHJLVAABSRFDPM-ZXZARUISSA-N dithioerythritol Chemical compound SC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CS VHJLVAABSRFDPM-ZXZARUISSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 125000004356 hydroxy functional group Chemical group O* 0.000 claims 1
- 229960003151 mercaptamine Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 150000003003 phosphines Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L sulfite Chemical class [O-]S([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims 1
- 230000001256 tonic effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 abstract description 26
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 abstract description 11
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 40
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 34
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 26
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- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 15
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 15
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 14
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical group [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 13
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 13
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 description 12
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 12
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 12
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 12
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 description 12
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 description 11
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 10
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 10
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- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 10
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 9
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 9
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 9
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical group CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 150000001204 N-oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propanedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000011976 maleic acid Substances 0.000 description 8
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-butenedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 241000447437 Gerreidae Species 0.000 description 7
- 206010044625 Trichorrhexis Diseases 0.000 description 7
- 239000000370 acceptor Substances 0.000 description 7
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 7
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 7
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UPHRSURJSA-N maleic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)\C=C/C(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UPHRSURJSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 6
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 125000004104 aryloxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 210000004919 hair shaft Anatomy 0.000 description 6
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- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000005728 strengthening Methods 0.000 description 6
- 125000000472 sulfonyl group Chemical group *S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 description 6
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- ZZTCCAPMZLDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium thioglycolate Chemical compound [NH4+].[O-]C(=O)CS ZZTCCAPMZLDHFM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 125000003010 ionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N (±)-α-Tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formaldehyde Chemical compound O=C WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000004414 alkyl thio group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
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- 235000016804 zinc Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940043810 zinc pyrithione Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- PICXIOQBANWBIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc;1-oxidopyridine-2-thione Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]N1C=CC=CC1=S.[O-]N1C=CC=CC1=S PICXIOQBANWBIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CAAIULQYGCAMCD-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;hydroxymethanesulfinate Chemical compound [Zn+2].OCS([O-])=O.OCS([O-])=O CAAIULQYGCAMCD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
用于在头发、皮肤或指甲中存在的角蛋白中重建二硫键的制剂、工具包和方法。由于染发处理和/或其它还原处理,诸如在永久性波浪期间受损的头发可用含有一种或多种活性剂的制剂处理。可在染发处理之后或与染发处理同时施用所述制剂。在永久性波浪处理期间使用所述活性剂制剂防止头发恢复到其之前的状态,这在一次或超过一次施用所述制剂之后持续至少一周、优选至少三个月、更优选至少一年、最优选超过一年。将所述活性剂制剂施用至皮肤或指甲可有助于修复由于自然磨损和撕裂或者自然老化而受损的二硫键。
Description
本申请是申请日为2015年05月15日,申请号为“201580026038.9(PCT国际申请号为PCT/US2015/031166,PCT国际申请进入国家阶段日为2016.11.16)”,发明名称为“角蛋白处理制剂和方法”的发明专利申请的分案申请,通过引用将其全部内容结合到本申请。
相关申请的交叉引用
本申请要求2014年5月16日提交的美国临时申请序列No.61/994,709的优先权,其公开内容通过引用以其整体并入本文。
技术领域
本发明一般涉及用于处理头发、皮肤或指甲中的角蛋白且特别用于在着色或永久性波浪处理期间或之后强化和/或修复头发的制剂和方法。
背景技术
染发当前是一种全球可接受的时尚现象。颜色处理包括染发、增亮和漂色。着色产品可归类为几种类型,其包括永久性、不完全永久性、半永久性和暂时性着色制剂。永久性染发产品占据了全球大部分市场。
已经非常努力地开发各种头发染色方法;这些包括氧化染料、直接作用染料、天然染料、金属染料和反应性染料。许多染发制剂,特别是永久性着色制剂,使用还原剂来断裂头发中的二硫键,从而使染发染料和漂色剂更深地渗透到头发中。
头发中的二硫键键合还通过诸如在永久性波浪和头发拉直过程中施用还原剂断裂。在二硫键断裂后,将头发置于压力下以固定最终的发型(如直的、波浪或卷曲),并且重新建立二硫键。
巯基乙酸,特别是铵盐形式,通常用于裂解头发中存在的半胱氨酸二硫键。亚硫酸氢钠是通常颜色处理中的各种染料和漂色剂中所用的已知还原剂的另一个实例。
通常,当诸如过氧化氢的氧化剂存在于着色制剂中时和/或通过使头发暴露于大气氧,部分获得恢复经还原的键的氧化。然而,该氧化步骤可能非常缓慢,并且可使头发卷曲和受损。
类似地,经历永久性波浪处理的头发通常用还原剂处理,然后用氧化剂处理。过氧化氢任选地在第二步添加,以将头发恢复至其初始状态。经处理的头发的新形成的二硫键在压力之下以维持头发的新形状;因此,它们轻易地断裂,从而导致发型随着时间恢复。
在头发造型过程中使用过氧化物可导致头发受损、非天然颜色从头发去除和/或使得头发卷曲。此外,一些潜在的还原硫醇甚至在氧化处理后可保留在头发中。用过氧化物进行的头发造型处理涉及以下与硫醇基团进行的反应:
2K-S-H+H2O2→K-S-S-K+2H2O (反应I)
其中K代表头发中的角蛋白。
在其中两个K-S-H基团不存在以使反应I发生的情况下,据信以下反应发生,其导致头发受损:
K-S-H+H2O2→K-SO2-OH (反应II)。
除了是头发中的主要组分之外,角蛋白还是皮肤和指甲中的主要组分。存在多种不同类型的角蛋白,并且它们通常分类为软和硬角蛋白。软角蛋白在皮肤中更常见,而硬角蛋白在头发和指甲中占优势。特别地,指甲由与头发中存在的角蛋白类似的改性角蛋白组成。指甲中的角蛋白的二硫键造成其不可渗透性。因此,对皮肤或指甲中存在的角蛋白的二硫桥的损害可导致不健康和/或成片的皮肤或指甲。因此,维持角蛋白的二硫桥有助于保持皮肤健康并预防指甲中的龟裂和裂开。
当施用颜色处理时,在色彩饱和度、显色、精确的初始颜色一致性、改善的耐洗性和改善的头发调理方面需要明显改善。例如,达到头发保留希望时间段的精确的初始颜色仍然是一个难以达到的目标。着色制剂还导致严重的头发损害,特别是当重复着色处理时。此外,对头发的各种标准的日常行为,例如头发梳理、头发吹干和阳光暴露可导致对头发甚至更多的损害。
对头发类似的损害还可由永久性波浪处理造成。在着色和永久性波浪这两个过程中,还需要改善以在此类造型处理期间或之后修复损害和/或强化头发。此外,需要可施用至皮肤和指甲以修复受损的角蛋白的改善的处理和方法。
需要使用还原处理修复和/或强化由着色和/或永久性波浪处理受损的头发中的角蛋白的头发制剂和处理。
还需要可修复头发中存在的潜在的还原硫醇的头发制剂和处理。
还需要可修复对存在于皮肤和头发中的角蛋白的损害的制剂和处理。
因此,本发明的目标是提供用于修复和/或强化受损的头发的经改善的制剂和方法。
本发明的目标还是提供使用在着色或永久性波浪处理之后和/或期间修复和/或强化头发的制剂的方法。
本发明的目标还是提供制剂和在还原处理后使用这些制剂修复和/或强化头发的方法。
本发明的目标还是提供制剂和使用这些制剂方法,所述制剂修复和/或强化自然磨损和撕裂或者自然老化的头发、皮肤或指甲中的角蛋白。
发明内容
公开了用于恢复在染发或永久性波浪处理期间已经断裂的头发的制剂、工具包和方法。当与不同颜色化学处理一起使用时该制剂具有类似的益处,诸如漂色、高亮、暗色、半永久性、不完全永久性和永久性颜色。还提供了改善的设计头发造型方法,例如永久性头发波浪化和头发卷曲。该制剂可在每次洗头发时或每天、每周一次、每周两次、每两周一次、每月一次、每隔一个月或以更小的间隔施用。优选地,该制剂每个月施用一次以获得所需结果。
传统的永久性头发波浪化、头发卷曲或拉直方法在还原处理之后使用过氧化氢。该过程通常花费约三天完成。本文公开的方法使用活性剂修复头发;这些活性剂在将它们施用至头发的当天从个体的头发洗出。在相同的条件(诸如温度和湿度)下,与用过氧化氢处理的相同头发相比,用本文公开的制剂处理的头发花费更长的时间恢复至其初始状态。
本文公开的制剂含有一种或多种多官能化合物。该多官能化合物含有至少一个能够形成离子键的可电离官能团,并且该多官能化合物还含有至少一个能够与硫醇基团形成共价键的官能团。在一些实施方案中,该多官能化合物含有至少两个可电离基团。任选地,与染发或永久性波浪处理同时施用该制剂。可替代地,该制剂可在染发或永久性波浪处理之后施用至受损的头发。例如,该制剂可在正处理和/或受损的头发的一周内、优选在三天内、更优选在两天内、最优选在施用着色或永久性波浪处理之后立即施用。
具体实施方式
I.定义
术语"头发"是指一缕或超过一缕头发以及头发的天然组分(诸如体油)。头发还指处女发或经处理的头发,例如已暴露于头发波浪化或头发拉直制剂的头发。
“药学上可接受的”和“美容上可接受的”可互换使用且是指以下那些化合物、材料和/或制剂,其在正确的医学判断范围内适用于与人组织和动物组织接触而无过量的毒性、刺激性、***反应或与合理的利益/风险比相当的其它问题或并发症。更特别地,药学上可接受的是指适用于与皮肤、头皮或头发接触的材料、化合物或制剂。药学上可接受的材料是本领域普通技术人员已知的。
“洗发精”,如本文所用,一般是指施用至头发的液体或半固体制剂,其含有清洁剂或肥皂用于洗头发。
“护发素(conditioner)”,如本文所用,一般是指施用至头发以使头发松软、使头发顺滑和/或改变头发光泽的制剂(如液体、霜剂、洗剂、凝胶、半固体)。
“类似物”和“衍生物”在本文可互换使用,且是指具有与母体化合物相同的核心但在键顺序、不存在或存在一个或多个原子和/或原子组或者其组合方面与母体化合物不同的化合物。衍生物可例如在核心上存在的一个或多个取代基(其可包括一个或多个原子、官能团或子结构)方面与母体化合物不同。通常,衍生物可经由化学和/或物理过程至少理论上从母体化合物形成。
“亲电子基团”或“亲电子部分”可互换使用且是指对电子具有亲和力或吸引电子的一个或多个官能团或部分。
“亲核基团”或“亲核部分”可互换使用且是指富电子且能够与亲电子基团反应的一个或多个官能团或部分。
“迈克尔受体(Michael acceptor)”,如本文所用,属于参与亲核加成反应的亲电子基团或部分的种类。迈克尔受体可为或可含有含α,β-不饱和羰基的基团或部分,诸如酮。其它迈克尔受体包括pi-键,诸如共轭至其它含吸电子基团的pi-键的双键或三键,诸如硝基团、腈基团和羧酸基团。
“羧酸”,如本文所用是指基团–COOH。除非另外说明,否则术语羧酸涵盖游离酸和羧酸盐两者。
“烷基”,如本文所用,是指饱和或不饱和脂族基团,包括直链烷基、烯基或炔基,支链烷基、烯基或炔基,环烷基、环烯基或环炔基(非环状)基团,烷基取代的环烷基、环烯基或环炔基,以及环烷基取代的烷基、烯基或炔基。除非另外说明,否则直链或支链烷基的主链具有30个或更少的碳原子(例如,对于直链为C1-C30,对于支链为C3-C30),更优选20个或更少的碳原子,更优选12个或更少的碳原子且最优选8个或更少的碳原子。在一些实施方案中,该链具有1-6个碳。类似地,优选的环烷基的环结构具有3-10个碳原子且更优选其环结构具有5、6或7个碳。以上提供的范围包括最小值与最大值之间的所有值。
术语“烷基”包括“未取代的烷基”和“取代的烷基”两者,后者是指一个或多个取代基替代烃主链的一个或多个碳上的氢的烷基部分。此类取代基包括但不限于卤素、羟基、羰基(诸如羧基、烷氧基羰基、甲酰基或酰基)、硫代羰基(诸如硫代酯、硫代乙酸酯或硫代甲酸酯)、烷氧基、磷酰基、磷酸酯、膦酸酯、次膦酸酯、氨基、酰胺基、脒、亚胺、氰基、硝基、叠氮基、巯基、烷基硫代、硫酸酯、磺酸酯、氨磺酰基、磺酰胺基、磺酰基、杂环基、芳烷基,或则芳族或杂芳族部分。
除非另外说明碳数目,否则如本文所用的“低级烷基”意指如上定义但其主链结构具有一至十个碳、更优选一至六个碳原子的烷基。类似地,“低级烯基”和“低级炔基”具有类似的链长度。优选的烷基是低级烷基。
烷基还可在碳主链内含有一个或多个杂原子。实例包括氧、氮、硫及其组合。在某些实施方案中,烷基含有一至四个杂原子。
“烯基”和“炔基”,如本文所用,是指含有长度(例如,C2-C30)类似的一个或多个双键或三键和可能对上述烷基的取代的不饱和脂族基团。
“芳基”,如本文所用,是指5-、6-和7-元芳族环。该环可为碳环环***、杂环环***、稠合碳环环***、稠合杂环环***、双碳环环***或双杂环环***,其如上所述对烷基任选地进行取代。广义上来定义,“芳”,如本文所用,包括可包含零至四个杂原子的5-、6-和7-元单环芳族基团。实例包括但不限于苯、吡咯、呋喃、噻吩、咪唑、噁唑、噻唑、***、吡唑、吡啶、吡嗪、哒嗪和嘧啶。那些在环结构中具有杂原子的芳基还可被称为“杂芳基”、“芳基杂环”或“杂芳族化合物”。芳族环可在一个或多个环位置处用如上所述的此类取代基取代,例如卤素、叠氮化物、烷基、芳烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、羟基、烷氧基、氨基、硝基、巯基、亚氨基、酰胺基、膦酸酯、次膦酸酯、羰基、羧基、甲硅烷基、醚、烷基硫代、磺酰基、磺酰胺基、酮、醛、酯、杂环基、芳族或杂芳族部分、--CF3和--CN。术语“芳”还包括具有两个或多个环状环的多环环***,其中两个或多个碳是两个邻接环(该环是“稠合环”)共有的,其中至少一个环是芳族的,如其它环状环可为环烷基、环烯基、环炔基、芳基和/或杂环,或者两个环是芳族的。
“烷基芳基”,如本文所用,是指被芳基(例如,芳族或杂芳族基团)取代的烷基。
“杂环”或“杂环的”,如本文所用,是指经由单环或双环的环碳或氮连接的环状基团,所述单环或双环含3-10个环原子且优选5-6个环原子、含碳和一至四个各自选自非-过氧化物氧、硫和N(Y)的杂原子(其中Y不存在或为H、O、(C1-4)烷基、苯基或苄基)、和任选地含有一个或多个双键或三键及被一个或多个取代基任选地取代。术语“杂环”还涵盖经取代和未取代的杂芳基环。杂环的实例包括但不限于苯并咪唑基、苯并呋喃基、苯并硫代呋喃基、苯并苯硫基、苯并噁唑基、苯并噁唑啉基、苯并噻唑基、苯丙***基、苯丙四唑基、苯并异噁唑基、苯并异噻唑基、苯并咪唑啉基、咔唑基、4aH-咔唑基、咔啉基、色满基、色烯基、噌啉基、十氢喹啉基、2H,6H-1,5,2-二噻嗪基、二氢呋喃并[2,3-b]四氢呋喃、呋喃基、呋咱基、咪唑烷基、咪唑啉基、咪唑基、1H-吲唑基、吲哚烯基(indolenyl)、吲哚啉基、吲哚嗪基、吲哚基、3H-吲哚基、靛红酰基(isatinoyl)、异苯丙呋喃基、异色满基、异吲唑基、异吲哚啉基、异吲哚基、异喹啉基、异噻唑基、异噁唑基、亚甲基二氧基苯基、吗啉基、萘啶基、八氢异喹啉基、噁二唑基、1,2,3-噁二唑基、1,2,4-噁二唑基、1,2,5-噁二唑基、1,3,4-噁二唑基、噁唑烷基、噁唑基、羟吲哚基、嘧啶基、菲啶基、邻二氮杂菲基、吩嗪基、吩噻嗪基、酚黄素基(phenoxathinyl)、吩噁嗪基、酞嗪基、哌嗪基、哌啶基、哌啶酮基、4-哌啶酮基、胡椒基、蝶啶基、嘌呤基、吡喃基、吡嗪基、吡唑烷基、吡唑啉基、吡唑基、哒嗪基、吡啶并噁唑、吡啶并咪唑、吡啶并噻唑、吡啶基(pyridinyl)、吡啶基(pyridyl)、嘧啶基、吡咯烷基、吡咯啉基、2H-吡咯基、吡咯基、喹唑啉基、喹啉基、4H-喹嗪基、喹喔啉基、奎宁环基、四氢呋喃基、四氢异喹啉基、四氢喹啉基、四唑基、6H-1,2,5-噻二嗪基、1,2,3-噻二唑基、1,2,4-噻二唑基、1,2,5-噻二唑基、1,3,4-噻二唑基、噻蒽基、噻唑基、噻吩基、噻吩并噻唑基、噻吩并噁唑基、噻吩并咪唑基、苯硫基和呫吨基。
“杂芳基”,如本文所用,是指含五个或六个含碳环原子和1、2、3或4个各自选自非-过氧化物氧、硫和N(Y)(其中Y不存在或为H、O、(C1-C8)烷基、苯基或苄基)的杂原子的单环芳族环。杂芳基的非限制性实例包括呋喃基、咪唑基、***基、三嗪基、噁唑基(oxazoyl)、异噁唑基(isoxazoyl)、噻唑基、异噻唑基(isothiazoyl)、吡唑基、吡咯基、吡嗪基、四唑基、吡啶基、(或其N-氧化物)、噻吩基、嘧啶基(或其N-氧化物)、吲哚基、异喹啉基(或其N-氧化物)、喹啉基(或其N-氧化物)等。术语"杂芳基"可包括来源于其的约八至十个环原子的邻位-稠合的双环杂环基团,特别是苯丙-衍生物或一种通过将亚丙基、三亚甲基或四亚甲基二基稠合其上而衍生的基团。杂芳基的实例包括但不限于呋喃基、咪唑基、***基、三嗪基、噁唑基(oxazoyl)、异噁唑基(isoxazoyl)、噻唑基、异噻唑基(isothiazoyl)、吡唑基(pyraxolyl)、吡咯基、吡嗪基、四唑基、吡啶基(或其N-氧化物)、噻吩基(thientyl)、嘧啶基(或其N-氧化物)、吲哚基、异喹啉基(或其N-氧化物)、喹啉基(或其N-氧化物)等。
“卤素”,如本文所用,是指氟、氯、溴或碘。
术语“经取代的”,如本文所用,是指本文所述的化合物的所有可允许的取代基。在最广泛的意义上,可允许的取代基包括有机化合物的非环状和环状、支链和非支链、碳环和杂环的、芳族和非芳族取代基。说明性取代基包括但不限于卤素、羟基或含有任何数目的碳原子、优选1-14个碳原子的任何其它有机分组,并任选地包括一个或多个杂原子诸如呈直链、支链或环状结构形式的氧、硫或氮分组。代表性取代基包括烷基、经取代的烷基、烯基、经取代的烯基、炔基、经取代的炔基、苯基、经取代的苯基、芳基、经取代的芳基、杂芳基、经取代的杂芳基、卤基、羟基、烷氧基、经取代的烷氧基、苯氧基、经取代的苯氧基、芳氧基、经取代的芳氧基、烷基硫代、经取代的烷基硫代、苯基硫代、经取代的苯基硫代、芳基硫代、经取代的芳基硫代、氰基、异氰基、经取代的异氰基、羰基、经取代的羰基、羧基、经取代的羧基、氨基、经取代的氨基、酰胺基、经取代的酰胺基、磺酰基、经取代的磺酰基、磺酸、磷酰基、经取代的磷酰基、膦酰基、经取代的膦酰基、聚芳基、经取代的聚芳基、C3-C20环、经取代的C3-C20环、杂环、经取代的杂环、氨基酸、肽和多肽基团。
杂原子(诸如氮)可具有本文所述的有机化合物的满足杂原子化合价的氢取代基和/或任何可允许的任何取代基。应理解“取代”或“经取代的”包括隐含的条件:此类取代根据经取代的原子和取代基所允许的化合价并且该取代产生稳定的化合物,即不诸如通过重排、环化、消除等自动经历转变的化合物。
“聚合物”,如本文所用,是指含有大于10个单体单元的分子。
“水溶性”,如本文所用,通常意指在25℃下至少50、75、100、125、150、200、225或250 g溶解于1L水中。
II.制剂
本文公开的制剂和方法涉及处理头发、皮肤或指甲中的角蛋白。在一个实施方案中,该方法涉及在头发经历着色处理后或者在永久性波浪处理之后或期间强化和/或修复头发。此外,该制剂可减少或防止由于染发和/或漂色过程导致的头发受损。
A.制剂
该制剂含有一种或多种多官能化合物(在本文中也被称为“活性剂”。
活性剂可与一种或多种被认为对人头发和/或人头皮安全且有效的药学上可接受的载体和/或赋形剂组合,并且可施用至个体的头发而不引起非所需的生物副作用,诸如灼伤、发痒和/或发红或者类似的不利反应。该制剂还可含有使得制剂呈中性pH或约pH 3至约pH 12、优选pH 5至pH 8范围内的pH的赋形剂。
活性剂通常以在制剂的约0.01重量%至约50重量%、优选制剂的约1重量%至约25重量%、更优选约1重量%至约15重量%、最优选约1重量%至约10重量%范围内的量存在。通常,活性剂可以在制剂的约0.5至约3重量%或制剂的约1至约3重量%范围内的量存在。
活性剂在水溶液中稳定在6至8的pH和约25-30℃、优选约25℃的温度下持续至少2、3、4、5、6、8、9、10、11或12个月或更久的时间段。如本文就保质期而使用的“稳定的”意指至少40、45、50、55、60、65、70、75、80、85、90或95%的化合物在指定的时间段内不改变。
a.活性剂
活性剂是可含有能够形成离子键的可电离官能团与能够与硫醇形成共价键的官能团的多官能化合物。适合的可电离官能团包括但不限于酸性基团(诸如羧酸、磺酸、膦酸)和碱性基团(诸如胺)。能够与硫醇形成共价键的适合官能团包括但不限于迈克尔受体、烷基卤或磺酸酯。
活性剂可具有下式:
其中Z是接头或不存在、m和n各自为独立地选自0-6的整数,前提是m+n至少为2、B是能够与硫醇形成共价键的官能团且A是可电离官能团。在一些实施方案中,可电离基团A可独立地选自由以下组成的组:-COOH、-SO3H、-PO3H2和–N(R1)2;其中R1独立地选自由以下组成的组:氢、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基、杂环烷基和杂芳基;其中每个R1独立地为未取代的或被一个或多个取代基取代。在一些其它实施方案中,可电离基团A可为离子基,诸如–N+(R1)3。在一些优选的实施方案中,每个R1独立地选自甲基、乙基或异丙基。
根据式I的示例性活性剂可含有硫醇反应性官能团作为基团B,例如,诸如在以下部分所示的那些:
其中R独立地选自氢、C1-6烷基、芳基或可电离官能团;Z’是氧(O)、NH或不存在;及G是碳(C)且g是1,或者G是硫(S)且g是2。
接头Z当存在时可为或可含有烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基或杂芳基。烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基和芳基中的一个或多个碳原子可被杂原子取代,从而产生例如含醚或烷基胺的接头。
接头Z可被一个或多个取代基任选地取代,所述取代基可为相同或不同的,包括氢、卤素、氰基、烷氧基、烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基、杂芳基、胺、羟基、氧代、甲酰基、酰基、羧酸(-COOH)、-C(O)R1、-C(O)OR1、羧酸根(-COO-)、伯胺(例如,-CONH2)、仲胺(例如,-CONHR11)、-C(O)NR1R2、-NR1R2、-NR1S(O)2R2、-NR1C(O)R2、-S(O)2R2、-SR1和-S(O)2NR1R2、亚磺酰基(例如,-SOR1)及磺酰基(例如,-SOOR1);其中R1和R2可各自独立地为氢、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基、杂环烷基和杂芳基;其中R1和R2的每一个独立地被选自由以下组成的组的一个或多个取代基任选地取代:卤素、羟基、氧代、氰基、硝基、氨基、烷基氨基、二烷基氨基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或芳基氧基任选取代的烷基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或烷基或三卤代烷基任选取代的芳基、被芳基或杂芳基或氧代或经羟基任选取代的烷基任选取代的杂环烷基、被羟基任选取代的环烷基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或烷基或三卤代烷基任选取代的杂芳基、卤代烷基、羟基烷基、羧基、烷氧基、芳基氧基、烷氧基羰基、氨基羰基、烷基氨基羰基及二烷基氨基羰基。
在某些优选的实施方案中,接头Z是C1-10烷基,其可为未取代的或被氧代、羟基、羧基、酰胺基或氨基取代一次或多次。优选地,接头Z是C1-4烷基。烷基可为直链或支链。烷基还可被选自氧、硫和氮的杂原子中断一次或多次。此类具有杂原子中断的二-羧酸的实例是硫代二丙酸。在其它实施方案中,烷基可含有一个或多个双键或三键。
在一些实施方案中,式I的活性剂具有以下结构之一:
或这些结构的简单盐。
在某些其它实施方案中,活性剂可具有下式II:
其中Z是接头或不存在、m和n各自为独立地选自0-6的整数,前提是m+n至少为2,B是能够与亲核试剂(诸如但不限于硫醇或胺基团)形成共价键的官能团,A是如上所定义的可电离官能团及C含有还能够与亲核试剂(诸如但不限于硫醇或胺基团)形成共价键且具有与可电离基团A的电荷相反的电荷的离子基和官能团。基团C通过离子键键合(以虚线表示)至基团A。对于离子基C,o是独立地选自0-6的整数值,使得基团C和可电离基团A的电荷总和为零。在一些实施方案中,可电离基团A可独立地选自由以下组成的组:-COOH、-SO3H、-PO3H2和–N(R1)2;其中R1独立地选自由以下组成的组:氢、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基、杂环烷基和杂芳基;其中每个R1独立地为未取代的或被一个或多个取代基取代。在一些其它实施方案中,可电离基团A可为离子基,诸如–N+(R1)3。在一些优选的实施方案中,每个R1独立地选自甲基、乙基或异丙基。
根据式II的活性剂可含有硫醇反应性官能团作为基团B,例如,诸如在以下部分所示的那些:
其中R独立地选自氢、C1-6烷基、芳基或可电离官能团;Z’是氧(O)、NH或不存在;及G是碳(C)且g是1,或者G是硫(S)且g是2。
接头Z当存在时可为或可含有烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基或杂芳基。烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基和芳基中的一个或多个碳原子可被杂原子取代,从而产生例如含醚或烷基胺的接头。
接头Z可被一个或多个取代基任选地取代,所述取代基可为相同或不同的,包括氢、卤素、氰基、烷氧基、烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基、杂芳基、胺、羟基、氧代、甲酰基、酰基、羧酸(-COOH)、-C(O)R1、-C(O)OR1、羧酸根(-COO-)、伯胺(例如,-CONH2)、仲胺(例如,-CONHR1)、-C(O)NR1R2、-NR1R2、-NR1S(O)2R2、-NR1C(O)R2、-S(O)2R2、-SR1和-S(O)2NR1R2、亚磺酰基(例如,-SOR1)及磺酰基(例如,-SOOR1);其中R1和R2可各自独立地为氢、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基、杂环烷基和杂芳基;其中R1和R2的每一个独立地被选自由以下组成的组的一个或多个取代基任选地取代:卤素、羟基、氧代、氰基、硝基、氨基、烷基氨基、二烷基氨基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或芳基氧基任选取代的烷基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或烷基或三卤代烷基任选取代的芳基、被芳基或杂芳基或氧代或经羟基任选取代的烷基任选取代的杂环烷基、被羟基任选取代的环烷基、被一个或多个卤素或烷氧基或烷基或三卤代烷基任选取代的杂芳基、卤代烷基、羟基烷基、羧基、烷氧基、芳基氧基、烷氧基羰基、氨基羰基、烷基氨基羰基及二烷基氨基羰基。
在某些优选的实施方案中,接头Z是C1-10烷基,其可为未取代的或被氧代、羟基、羧基、酰胺基或氨基取代一次或多次。优选地,接头Z是C1-4烷基。烷基可为直链或支链。烷基还可被选自氧、硫和氮的杂原子中断一次或多次。此类具有杂原子中断的二-羧酸的实例是硫代二丙酸。在其它实施方案中,烷基可含有一个或多个双键或三键。
基团C是通过离子键键合至可电离基团A的离子基且含有至少一个选自以下的硫醇反应基:迈克尔受体、含琥珀酰亚胺基的基团、含马来酰亚胺基的基团、吖内酯、苯并噁嗪酮衍生物、乙烯砜、乙烯亚砜亚胺、乙烯磺酸盐、乙烯膦酸盐、苯并噁嗪酮、异氰酸酯、环氧化物、含有离去基团的亲电子部分、亲电硫醇受体、丙烯酸或丙烯酸酯基团、甲基丙酸烯或甲基丙烯酸酯基团、苯乙烯基团、丙烯酰胺基团、甲基丙烯酰胺基团、马来酸酯基团、延胡索酸酯基团、衣康酸酯基团、乙烯醚基团、烯丙基醚基团、烯丙基酯基团、乙烯酯基团、磺酸酯基团、膦酸酯基团、亚砜基团、磺酰胺基团、亚磺酰亚氨基团、亚磺酰胺基团、磺酰亚氨酯(sulfonimidate)基团或磺酰亚氨酰胺基团。
在一些实施方案中,式II的活性剂具有以下结构之一:
b.赋形剂
该制剂通常含有一种或多种美容上可接受的赋形剂。美容上可接受的赋形剂包括但不限于防腐剂、抗氧化剂、螯合剂、防晒剂、维生素、染料、染发剂、蛋白质、氨基酸、天然提取物诸如植物提取物、湿润剂、芳香剂、香料、油、润肤剂、润滑剂、黄油(butter)、渗透剂、增稠剂、粘度调节剂、聚合物、树脂、头发固定剂、成膜剂、表面活性剂、清洁剂、乳化剂、乳浊剂、挥发物、推进剂、液体媒介物、载体、盐、pH调节剂(如柠檬酸)、中和剂、缓冲剂、头发调理剂、抗静电剂、防卷曲剂、去头屑剂、吸附剂及其组合。
该制剂通常含有至少两种美容上可接受的赋形剂。在一些形式中,制剂含有活性剂、水和任选的防腐剂和/或芳香剂。
用于处理头发的制剂可呈任何的适合物理形式。适合的形式包括但不限于低至中等粘度液体、洗剂、乳状物、摩丝、喷雾剂、凝胶剂、霜剂、洗发精、护发素等。包括或从头发护理制剂排除适合的赋形剂,诸如以上列出的那些,这取决于制剂所用的形式(例如,头发喷雾、霜剂、护发素或洗发精)。
药物赋形剂通常以制剂的约10重量%至约99.99重量%、优选约40重量%至约99重量%、更优选约80重量%至约至约99重量%范围内的量存在。
i.表面活性剂
表面活性剂是能够减低水表面张力并导致头发制剂滑过或者滑动至皮肤或头发上的表面-活性剂。表面活性剂还包括清洁剂和肥皂。表面活性剂可为两性、阴离子或阳离子的。可用于该制剂中的适合的表面活性剂包括但不限于3-氨基丙烷磺酸、扁桃酰胺、扁桃酰胺丙基甜菜碱、扁桃酰胺丙基胺氧化物、氢化牛脂酰谷氨酸铝、羊毛脂酸铝、硫酸氨基乙酯、氨丙基月桂基谷氨酰胺、C12-15烷基硫酸铵、C12-15烷醇聚醚硫酸铵、C12-16烷基硫酸铵、C9-10全氟烷基磺酸铵、辛醇聚醚硫酸铵、辛醇聚醚-3硫酸铵、甘油单酯硫酸铵、硫酸铵、羟乙基磺酸铵、椰油酰肌氨酸铵、枯烯磺酸铵、聚二甲硅氧烷共聚醇硫酸铵、十二烷基苯磺酸铵、异硬脂酸铵、月桂醇聚醚硫酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-12硫酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-5硫酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-6羧酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-7硫酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-8羧酸铵、月桂醇聚醚-9硫酸铵、月桂酰肌氨酸铵、月桂基硫酸铵、月桂基磺基琥珀酸铵、肉豆蔻醇聚醚硫酸铵、肉豆蔻基硫酸铵、壬苯醇醚-30硫酸铵、壬苯醇醚-4硫酸铵、油酸铵、棕榈仁油醇硫酸铵、聚丙烯酸铵、硬脂酸铵、妥尔油酸铵、二甲苯磺酸铵、二甲苯磺酸铵、amp-异硬脂酰明胶/角蛋白氨基酸/赖氨酸羟基丙基三甲基氯化胺、amp-异硬脂酰水解胶原、杏仁油PEG-6酯、杏酰胺、杏酰胺丙基甜菜碱、花生醇聚醚-20、鳄梨油酰胺、鳄梨油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、巴巴苏油酰胺、巴巴苏油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、巴巴苏油酰胺丙基胺氧化物、山嵛基苄基二甲基氯化铵(behenalkonium chloride)、山嵛酰胺、山嵛酰胺、山嵛酰胺丙基甜菜碱、山嵛胺氧化物、月桂醇聚醚硫酸钠、月桂基硫酸钠、月桂醇的聚氧基醚或鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20,或其组合。
适合的阴离子表面活性剂包括但不限于含羧酸根、磺酸根和硫酸根离子的那些。阴离子表面活性剂的实例包括长链烷基磺酸钠、钾、铵和烷基芳基磺酸钠、钾、铵,诸如十二烷基苯磺酸钠;磺基琥珀酸二烷基钠,诸如十二烷基苯磺酸钠;磺基琥珀酸二烷基钠,诸如双-(2-乙基硫氧基)-磺基琥珀酸钠;及烷基硫酸盐,诸如月桂基硫酸钠。阳离子表面活性剂包括但不限于季铵化合物诸如苯扎氯铵、苄索氯铵、西曲溴铵、硬脂基二甲基苄基氯化铵、聚氧乙烯和椰油胺。非离子型表面活性剂的实例包括乙二醇单硬脂酸酯、丙二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、甘油单硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-4-油酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇酰化物(sorbitanacylate)、蔗糖酰化物(sucrose acylate)、PEG-150月桂酸酯、PEG-400单月桂酸酯、聚氧乙烯单月桂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯、聚氧乙烯辛基苯基醚、PEG-1000鲸蜡基醚、聚氧乙烯十三烷基醚、聚丙二醇丁基醚、401、硬脂酰单异丙醇酰胺及聚氧乙烯氢化牛脂酰胺。两性表面活性剂实例包括N-十二烷基-.β.-丙氨酸钠、N-月桂基-β-亚氨基二丙酸钠、肉豆蔻酰基两性乙酸盐、月桂基甜菜碱和月桂基硫代甜菜碱。
可将超过一种表面活性剂包含在该制剂中。
任选地以在制剂的约0.1重量%至约15重量%、优选制剂的约1重量%至约10重量%的范围内的量包含表面活性剂。
ii.润肤剂
润肤剂是指保护皮肤免受潮湿或刺激、柔和、光滑、涂覆、润滑、润湿、保护和/或清洁皮肤的材料。适用于该制剂中的润肤剂包括但不限于硅酮化合物(例如,聚二甲基硅氧烷、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲硅氧烷共聚醇或者环戊硅氧烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的混合物、环戊硅氧烷聚硅酮的混合物)、多元醇诸如山梨糖醇、甘油、丙二醇、乙二醇、聚乙二醇、辛二醇、聚丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、己二醇、异戊二醇、木糖醇;棕榈酸乙基己酯;甘油三酯诸如辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和脂肪酸酯,诸如鲸蜡硬脂基异壬酸酯或棕榈酸鲸蜡酯。在一个特定实施方案中,润肤剂是聚二甲基硅氧烷、酰胺基聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、环戊硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-7泛醇基磷酸钾或其组合。可将超过一种的润肤剂包含在该制剂中。
任选地以在制剂的约0.5重量%至约15重量%、优选制剂的约1重量%至约10重量%的范围内的量包含润肤剂。
iii.乳化剂
该制剂还可含有一种或多种乳化剂。适合的乳化剂包括但不限于不饱和酯和苯乙烯磺酸酯单体的共聚物、鲸蜡硬脂醇、甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇的聚氧基乙二醇醚、硬脂酸、聚山梨醇酯-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-20、卵磷脂、乙二醇硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-60、聚山梨醇酯-80或其组合。可将超过一种的乳化剂包含在该制剂中。
任选地以在制剂的约0.05重量%-15重量%、优选制剂的约0.1重量%-10重量%的范围内的量包含乳化剂。
iv.防腐剂
一种或多种防腐剂可包含在该制剂中。适合的防腐剂包括但不限于含甘油化合物(例如,甘油或乙基己基甘油或苯氧基乙醇)、苄醇、对羟基苯甲酸酯(对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丁酯、对羟基苯甲酸异丁酯等)、苯甲酸钠、乙二胺-四乙酸(EDTA)、山梨酸钾和/或葡萄柚籽提取物或其组合。可将超过一种的防腐剂包含在该制剂中。其它防腐剂是化妆品行业已知的,并且包括水杨酸、DMDM乙内酰脲、甲醛(Formaldahyde)、氯苯甘醚(Chlorphenism)、三氯生、咪唑烷基脲、重氮烷基脲、山梨酸、甲基异噻唑啉酮、脱氢醋酸钠、脱氢乙酸、季铵盐–15、司拉氯铵、吡硫鎓锌、焦亚硫酸钠、2-溴-2-硝基丙烷、二葡萄糖酸氯己定、聚氨丙基双胍、苯扎氯铵、亚硫酸钠、水杨酸钠、柠檬酸、印楝油、精油(各种)、乳酸和维生素E(生育酚)。
任选地以在制剂的约0.1重量%至约5重量%、优选制剂的约0.3重量%至约3重量%的范围内的量包含防腐剂。优选地,该制剂不含对羟基苯甲酸酯。
v.调理剂
可将一种或多种调理剂包含在该制剂中。适合的调理剂包括但不限于硅酮基试剂(如硅酮季铵盐-8)、泛醇、水解小麦和/或大豆蛋白、氨基酸(例如小麦氨基酸)、米糠蜡、白芒花籽油、芒果籽油、葡萄籽油、荷荷巴籽油、甜杏仁油、羟乙基山萮酰胺丙基二甲基氯化铵、芦荟叶提取物、库拉索芦荟叶汁、植烷三醇、泛醇、棕榈酸视黄酯、山嵛基三甲基硫酸甲酯铵、环戊硅氧烷、季铵盐-91、硬脂酰氨丙基二甲胺及其组合。
任选地以在制剂的约0.1重量%至约5重量%、优选制剂的约0.3重量%至约3重量%的范围内的量包含调理剂。
vi.稀释剂
稀释剂,如本文所用,是指稀释活性剂的物质。水是优选的稀释剂。该制剂通常含有大于1%(按重量计)的水、优选大于5%(按重量计)的水、更优选大于50%(按重量计)的水和最优选大于80%(按重量计)的水。醇,诸如乙醇和异丙醇可以最低浓度(制剂的约0.5重量%)使用以增强头发渗透和/或减少臭味。
vii.粘度改性剂
该制剂可含有一种或多种粘度改性剂,诸如增粘剂。此类试剂的类别包括但不限于粘性液体(诸如聚乙二醇)、半合成聚合物(诸如半合成纤维素衍生物)、合成聚合物(诸如卡波姆、泊洛沙姆及聚乙烯亚胺(如PEI-10))、天然存在的聚合物(诸如***树胶、黄蓍胶、藻酸盐(例如,藻酸钠)、卡拉胶、植物胶(诸如黄原胶)、石油膏、蜡)、颗粒缔合胶体(诸如膨润土、胶体二氧化硅和微晶纤维素)、表面活性剂(诸如PPG-2羟乙基椰油/异硬脂酰胺)、乳化剂(诸如二硬脂醇聚醚-75IPDI)和盐(诸如氯化钠)及其组合。
viii.抗氧化剂
制剂可含有一种或多种抗氧化剂。实例包括但不限于生育酚、BHT、抗坏血酸、野茶树叶提取物、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁、类胡萝卜素、白藜芦醇、柠檬酸三乙酯、熊果苷、曲酸、抗坏血酸四已基癸酯、超氧化物歧化酶、锌、焦亚硫酸钠、番茄红素、泛醌及其组合。
ix.乳浊剂
该制剂可含有一种或多种乳浊剂。将乳浊剂添加至该制剂以使其不透明。适合的乳浊剂包括但不限于乙二醇二硬脂酸酯和乙氧基化脂肪醇。
c.制剂的形式
i.喷雾剂
该制剂可呈喷雾剂的形式。该喷雾剂通常包含活性剂和美容上可接受的载体。在一些实施方案中,该载体是水或水与醇混合物。该喷雾制剂任选地包含抗氧化剂、防晒剂、维生素、蛋白质、肽、植物提取物、湿润剂、油、润肤剂、润滑剂、增稠剂、头发调理剂、聚合物和/或表面活性剂。优选地,该喷雾制剂包含防腐剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂包含芳香剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂包含表面活性剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂含有水、芳香剂、防腐剂和活性剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂含有水、芳香剂、防腐剂和活性剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂含有水、防腐剂、芳香剂、活性剂和抗静电剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂含有水、防腐剂、芳香剂、活性剂和头发调理剂。在一些实施方案中,该制剂含有水、防腐剂、芳香剂、活性剂和表面活性剂。
头发喷雾制剂可从包括气溶胶分配器或泵喷雾分配器的容器分配。此类分配器是本领域已知的并且可从多个制造商商购获得。
推进剂
当头发喷雾制剂从加压气溶胶容器分配时,推进剂可用于将制剂挤出容器。适合的推进剂包括但不限于可液化气体或卤化推进剂。适合的推进剂的实例包括二甲醚和烃推进剂,诸如丙烷、正丁烷、异丁烷、CFC和CFC-替代推进剂。推进剂可单独使用或掺混。
推进剂的量可在制剂的约10重量%至约60重量%范围内。推进剂可因在两室容器中与头发修复制剂分离。其它适合的气溶胶分配器是特征在于推进剂为压缩空气的那些,可使用泵或等效装置在使用前将所述压缩空气填充到分配器内。常见的非气溶胶泵喷雾分配器,即雾化器还可用于将制剂施用至头发。
ii.护发素
该制剂可呈护发素的形式。护发素通常包含于适合的载体中的活性剂。此外,该护发素可包含源自多糖的阳离子聚合物(例如阳离子纤维素衍生物、阳离子淀粉衍生物、阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物和阳离子刺槐豆胶衍生物)、合成阳离子聚合物及这些试剂的混合物或组合。该制剂可包含其它合成或天然聚合物或源自生物制备工艺的聚合物,其在适当的情况下例如用阳离子或中性基团官能化。这些聚合物可对制剂具有稳定或强化作用和/或调理作用(沉积于皮肤或头发的表面上)。
活性剂可以任何适合的浓度包含。护发素中活性剂的典型浓度的范围为少量(诸如约0.01%(按重量计)、优选至少0.1%(按重量计))至大量(诸如高达50%(按重量计))。优选地,护发素含有浓度在0.1%(按重量计)至5%(按重量计)、更优选0.1%重量至3%(按重量计)范围内的活性剂。尽管更高浓度的活性剂可存在于护发素中,但通常不需要它们获得所需结果。
iii.洗发精
头发修复制剂可呈洗发精的形式。洗发精通常包含于适合的载体中的活性剂。可以任何适合的浓度包含活性剂。洗发精中活性剂的典型浓度的范围为少量(诸如约0.01%(按重量计)、优选至少0.1%(按重量计))至大量(诸如高达50%(按重量计))。优选地,洗发精含有浓度在0.1%(按重量计)至5%(按重量计)、更优选0.1%(按重量计)至3%(重量)范围内的活性剂。尽管更高浓度的活性剂可存在于洗发精中,但通常不需要它们获得所需结果。
此外,洗发精可包含约0.5重量%至约20重量%的表面活性剂材料。用于洗发精组合物中的表面活性剂是本领域熟知的且公开于例如Gallagher等的美国专利No.6,706,258和Geary等的美国专利No.7,598,213。
iv.霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂和擦亮剂
头发、皮肤或指甲修复制剂可呈霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂或擦亮剂的形式。霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂或擦亮剂通常包含于适合的载体中的活性剂。可以任何适合的浓度包含活性剂。霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂或擦亮剂中活性剂的典型浓度的范围为少量(诸如约0.01%(按重量计)、优选至少0.1%(按重量计))至大量(诸如高达50%(按重量计))。优选地,霜剂或洗剂含有浓度在0.1%(按重量计)至5%(按重量计)、更优选0.1%(按重量计)至3%(按重量计)范围内的活性剂。尽管更高浓度的活性剂可存在于霜剂或洗剂中,但通常不需要它们获得所需结果。
此外,该制剂根据其用途可包含油、头发调理剂和/或增稠剂。霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂或擦亮剂还可包含芳香剂、植物提取物和/或表面活性剂。霜剂、洗剂、凝胶剂或擦亮剂可包装于管、桶、瓶或其它适合的容器中。
v.液体活性剂制剂
在一些实施方案中,提供液体活性剂制剂,其在使用时与第二制剂(诸如着色或增亮制剂)混合。在这些实施方案中,液体活性剂制剂可含有于适合的载体、通常为如上所述的稀释剂中的任何适合浓度的活性剂。一定浓度的活性剂适于为混合物提供适当最终体积和最终浓度的活性剂。
例如,液体活性剂制剂可含有浓度在约5%(按重量计)至约50%(按重量计)或更大范围内的活性剂。在一个优选的实施方案中,液体活性剂制剂含有约20%(按重量计)的活性剂。
对于增亮施用,在使用前,将足够体积的液体活性剂制剂与足够体积的增亮制剂混合以形成具有所需浓度的活性剂的增亮混合物。增亮混合物中活性剂的典型浓度的范围为少量(诸如约至少0.01%(按重量计)、优选至少0.1%(按重量计))至大量(诸如高达50%(按重量计))。优选地,增亮混合物含有浓度在0.1%(按重量计)至5%(按重量计)、更优选0.1%(按重量计)至3%(重量)范围内的活性剂。尽管更高浓度的活性剂可存在于增亮混合物中,但通常不需要它们获得所需结果。
III.使用方法
A.用着色剂处理头发
a.将着色制剂施用至头发
通常将着色制剂施用至个体的头发,然后进行本领域技术人员已知的正常染发程序。通常,头发颜色处理包括两个互补过程:施用漂色制剂以对头发天然色素和/或头发中存在的其它人工色素漂色,和使染料前体扩散至头发内,然后是导致在毛干内形成发色团的偶联反应,所述发色团太大以致不能扩散出头发。漂色制剂通常含有漂色剂以使头发增亮并产生游离硫醇基团。染发制剂可为诸如通过混合漂色粉和显色剂形成的增亮制剂。更复杂的颜色可含有若干前体和许多偶联剂,并且可涉及多个反应。
染料前体可含有若干种成分,其各自具有不同的功能。第一成分通常是碱化剂(通常是氨和/或氨替代物,诸如单乙醇胺[MEA])。碱化剂在染发过程中起多种作用,包括膨胀头发纤维以有助于染料前体的扩散。染料前体通常包括p-二胺和对氨基酚。一旦前体渗透毛干,其被氧化为活性中间体。然后中间体与颜色偶联剂反应以产生耐洗染料。更具体地,在氧化剂的存在下,中间体与另一种氧化染料中间体分子偶联以在毛干内形成大型稠环颜色化合物。前体中间体应在偶联反应之前渗透毛干,因为稠环产品太大以致于不能渗透毛干。偶联剂改变前体化合物氧化所产生的颜色。不完全永久性与永久性产品之间的主要差异是碱化剂及过氧化物浓度。角质层膨胀程度不像不完全永久性染料那样大,从而使得与永久性着色产品相比染料渗透不太有效。
若干种着色制剂使用还原剂,诸如硫酸氢钠以断裂头发内的二硫键,从而使得染发染料更深地渗透至头发内。具体来说,本发明包括将毛干内胱氨酸的一些二硫键还原为硫醇基团同时断裂氢键。还原过程改变了头发的化学性质和化妆性质,这是非所需的。
头发染色过程之后可能为洗发精和调理处理,一种中和冲洗或酸平衡的洗发精,除了阳离子或两性表面活性剂,其还含有阳离子-活性润肤剂和四元聚合物之外。可替代地,头发干燥过程之后可能为是施用本文所述的活性剂制剂,之后是洗发精和/或调理处理。
b.将活性剂制剂施用至头发
活性剂制剂可与染发制剂同时施用或在施用染发制剂之后施用。例如,活性剂制剂可与染发处理混合,并且可将含有活性剂和染发处理两者的混合物施用至头发。
可替代地,在染发之后,将活性剂制剂或其制剂施用至头发。尽管通常在着色处理当天施用活性剂,但可在稍后施用活性剂,诸如用还原剂处理之后1至2周内。通常,施用的活性剂制剂(或活性剂制剂和染发制剂的混合物)的量足以浸透头发。可将活性剂以单次施用施用至头发,或者活性剂的施用可重复一次或多次。通常,每次施用中施用的活性剂制剂的量足以浸透头发。在每次施用中施用至头发的活性剂制剂的体积可为每人约1至约100mL,这取决于他们头发的长度和体积。在一些实施方案中,活性剂的施用可在第一次施用之后立即(如在10至15秒内)或约1、5、7.5、10、12.5、15、17.5或20分钟后重复。
在施用之后立即从头发冲洗活性剂和用洗发精洗发,例如施用后10、15、25、30、45或60秒内或者两、三、四或五分钟内。可替代地,活性剂可在施用后约30分钟内、优选介于约5分钟和约20分钟之间、更优选将活性剂施用至头发后约10分钟从头发冲洗,这取决于头发类型。
如果将活性剂制剂与染发处理组合并且作为混合物施用至头发,则混合物留在头发足够染发处理所需的时间。通常,将混合物施用约10分钟。将混合物根据标准染发处理方法从头发去除,如施用混合物之后约10分钟冲洗和用洗发精洗发。
在施用之后从头发冲洗活性剂制剂。可冲洗头发,之后在最后施用活性剂之后立即洗涤(如在施用后10至15秒内)。优选地,在最后施用活性剂之后约10分钟或更久、诸如约15分钟至约30分钟、任选将活性剂重复至施用头发之后约20分钟冲洗和/或洗涤头发。
通常在施用活性剂的当天从个体头发洗涤活性剂。相反,仅使用过氧化氢(且不涉及添加活性剂)的传统电烫通常在施用后至少48小时内不洗涤(在传统永久性处理后48小时之前洗头发可导致头发中卷曲的量显著损失和/或导致头发受损)。
本文所述的制剂改善了头发质量(诸如外观(如光泽)和手感),并且当头发经受处理(诸如着色或永久性波浪化)时减少了头发断裂。
在一些实施方案中,与来自相同个体的未处理的头发相比,用活性剂处理之后,头发断裂减少5、10、15、20、25、30、35、40、45或50%或更高。头发断裂是在着色和其它处理期间遇到的重大问题。
B.用还原剂化学处理头发
在一个实施方案中,在用活性剂处理之前,使头发经受用于头发的波浪化(在本文中也被称为头发电烫或永久性波浪)和/或卷曲的还原剂。
a.将还原剂施用至头发
波浪化或卷曲头发中第一步是断裂半胱氨酸二硫键以形成游离硫醇部分。用于断裂半胱氨酸二硫键的过程是经由施用还原剂进行的。用于施用还原剂的过程涉及按照本领域技术人员已知的正常的电烫或头发拉直程序。例如,对于电烫头发,首先洗涤头发并安置在各种尺寸的电烫棒上。其次,将还原剂,诸如巯基乙酸盐还原溶液或洗剂至施用头发。使头发静置指定时间段,然后从头发冲洗巯基乙酸盐溶液。
在该过程中施用过氧化氢是任选的。在一些过程中,诸如当处理之前化学处理过的头发时,通常不使用过氧化氢。在其它过程中,诸如当电烫处女发时,可添加过氧化氢。在这些实施方案中,在冲洗掉还原剂之后,通常添加过氧化氢。然后在添加活性剂之前从头发冲洗过氧化氢。
b.施用活性剂
还原处理之后,将一种或多种活性剂或其制剂施用至头发。尽管通常该试剂在用还原剂处理当天施用,但其可在诸如用还原剂处理后1至2周内施用。
通常,施用的活性剂制剂的量足以浸透头发。在获得所需水平的头发波浪化或卷曲之后,通常从头发冲洗该试剂并用洗发精洗发。在一些实施方案中,在最终施用活性剂之后立即(例如在施用后10、15、25、30、45或60秒内)从头发冲洗活性剂。可替代地,可在施用后约30分钟内、优选介于约5分钟和约20分钟之间、更优选在最后将活性剂施用至头发之后约10分钟内冲洗和洗涤头发,这取决于头发类型。可在施用后10、15、25、30、45、60秒内从头发冲洗活性剂,并且仍然获得所需水平的头发波浪化或卷曲。
可以单次施用将活性剂施用至头发,或者该试剂的施用可重复一次或多次。通常,每次施用中施用的活性剂制剂的量足以浸透头发。在一些实施方案中,每次施用中施用至头发的活性剂制剂的体积可为每个电烫棒约1至约10mL。在一些实施方案中,活性剂的施用可在第一次施用之后立即(例如在10至15秒内)或约1、5、7.5、10、12.5、15、17.5或20分钟重复。在一些实施方案中,第二次施用是在第一次施用之后约7分钟至约10分钟。
在施用后从头发冲洗活性剂。可在最后施用活性剂之后立即(例如在施用后10至15秒内)冲洗和洗涤头发。可替代地,可在最后施用活性剂之后约10分钟或更久、诸如约15分钟至约30分钟、优选在将活性剂重复施用至头发之后约20分钟冲洗和洗涤头发。
通常在施用活性剂的当天从个体头发洗涤活性剂。相反,仅使用过氧化氢(且不涉及添加活性剂)的传统电烫通常在施用后至少48小时内不洗涤(在传统永久性处理后48小时之前洗涤头发可导致头发中卷曲的量显著损失和/或导致头发受损)。
可将本文所述的制剂施用至头发以改善头发质量(诸如外观(如光泽)和手感)并且当头发经受后续处理(诸如着色)时减少头发断裂。
在一些实施方案中,与来自相同个体的未处理的头发相比,施用活性剂之后,头发断裂减少5、10、15、20、25、30、35、40、45或50%或更高。头发断裂是在着色和其它处理期间遇到的重大问题。
C.用活性剂处理皮肤或指甲
在一个实施方案中,将含有一种或多种活性剂的制剂施用至皮肤或指甲。将活性剂制剂施用至皮肤或指甲可有助于修复由于自然磨损和撕裂或者自然老化而受损的二硫键。
在一些实施方案中,活性剂制剂呈霜剂或洗剂的形式,其适合于施用至皮肤或指甲。在其它实施方案中,活性剂制剂呈凝胶剂或擦亮剂的形式,其适合于施用至指甲。通常,施用的活性剂制剂的量足够处理皮肤或指甲内受损的角蛋白。可以单次施用将活性剂制剂施用至皮肤或指甲,或者根据需要,该试剂的施用可重复一次或多次以获得所需的修复角蛋白损害和/或强化皮肤或指甲的效果。
IV.工具包
提供了用于处理头发的工具包。在一个实施方案中,工具包通常含有用于对染发的第一制剂。染发制剂通常包含能够还原头发内的二硫键以产生游离硫醇基团的还原剂。工具包还包含含有有效量的活性剂的第二制剂。
工具包还可包括显色剂瓶、手套、洗发精、护发素和/或臭味消除剂。通常还提供工具包使用说明书。
通常,工具包含有超过一个的容器(或在给定容器中超过一个室)以确保增亮剂(如过氧化物)或着色剂与活性剂分隔贮藏。
a.第一制剂
工具包中的第一制剂可为着色处理。第一制剂可被配制为两种或多种组分,其可在施用至头发之前混合在一起。例如,第一制剂可呈两种组分的形式,诸如染料前体和氧化剂。通常,染发制剂含有能够还原头发中的二硫键并产生经还原的游离硫醇基团的还原剂。适合的还原剂包括但不限于巯基乙酸、硫代乳酸、二氢硫辛酸、硫代甘油、巯基丙酸、亚硫酸氢钠、硫氢化铵、甲醛合次硫酸锌、甲醛合次硫酸氢钠、焦亚硫酸钠、硼氢化钾、聚乙二醇化硫醇和氢醌。如本领域的技术人员将理解,第一制剂中还原剂的量足以断裂足够数目的二硫键以用于染发成分的有效扩散。
第一制剂的组分可根据所需的染发处理(诸如半永久性、不完全永久性或永久性头发颜色)、头发质地、使用者皮肤敏感性等而不同。用于不同的染发处理、头发质地和头发敏感性的染发制剂是本领域技术人员已知的。
b.活性剂制剂
第二制剂含有有效量的一种或多种活性剂。以上讨论了含有活性剂的适合的制剂。第二制剂可呈任何适合的形式。适合的形式包括但不限于低至中等粘度液体、洗剂、乳状物、摩斯、喷雾剂、凝胶、霜剂、洗发精、护发素等。第二制剂将存在于适合的容器中,这取决于该制剂的形式。
在一个实施方案中,活性剂制剂以两种或多种单独的成分提供。例如,活性剂可以在密封包装中的干粉提供,并且赋形剂可提供于小瓶或其它容器中。可提供适用于活性剂和赋形剂的混合容器。
在一些实施方案中,将活性剂制剂(或第二制剂)与第一制剂(或染发处理)混合,并将混合物施用至头发。
c.工具包中的其它材料
工具包还可含有臭味消除剂。该臭味消除剂可掺入第一或第二制剂或其混合物中。可替代的,该臭味消除剂存在于适合的容器中以供在从头发洗涤第二制剂之前或之后使用。一些适合的臭味消除剂是本领域普通技术人员已知的。
应理解所公开的方法和制剂不限于所述的特定方法、方案和试剂,因为它们可变化。还应理解本文所用的方法是仅为了描述特定实施方案的目的,并且不意在限制本发明的范围,本发明的范围将仅由随附权利要求限制。
实施例
实施例1:用活性剂制剂处理的经着色的头发的保色性和质地.
概述
从人受试者获得三个头发样品并切成1/2英寸宽纬丝。
活性剂制剂:使用浓度为于10g总溶液(水)中200mg的马来酸。
方法
将活性剂制剂经由喷雾瓶和使用手指按摩施用至第二和第三颜色处理的头发样品。使活性剂制剂在第二头发样品上停留约1分钟的时间段,和在第三样品上停留约10分钟的时间段。随后冲洗头发样品,然后用保湿洗发精和护发素洗涤五次,之后检查。
结果:
用活性剂制剂处理的头发样品显示了比对照更佳的保色性、更闪亮和更少的卷曲。用活性剂制剂处理的头发样品摸起来感觉比对照更光滑并且结合更少的卷曲和增加的光泽使得整个外观更健康。
实施例2:传统电烫的头发和使用活性剂制剂电烫的头发中的保色性比较。
方法
将从人受试者获得的1/2英寸宽的头发样品纬丝用清洁洗发精洗涤,然后用毛巾擦干。将巯基乙酸铵或二硫苏糖醇用宽的细齿梳机械拉动通过头发若干次,然后在头发上停留10分钟至1小时。然后将头发用水冲洗30秒至1分钟,然后用毛巾擦干。
然后将实施例1中所述的活性剂制剂(于水中的马来酸)经由针形鼻施用器施用,浸渍头发并使其停留7.5分钟。重复该步骤,总共持续15分钟。然后冲洗头发1-2分钟,用洗发精洗发,然后用各种沙龙洗发精和护发素品牌,包括保湿洗发精和保湿护发素调理。
将第二头发样品如上所述拉直,但使用过氧化氢替代活性剂制剂。将头发样品洗涤并重复调理。
头发颜色比较:
结果
与用过氧化氢处理的头发相比,用活性剂制剂处理的头发样品展现了颜色强度更接近第一次洗涤之前的头发样品。
实施例3:用与活性剂制剂同时施用的增亮制剂处理的头发与单独用增亮制剂处理的头发的比较
实施例1中的活性剂制剂含有浓度为10g总溶液(水)中2.0g的马来酸。
测试人头发的两个样本。样品从相同的头部取得,1英寸宽,并且分成两半。颜色为中褐色且之前已用未知的专业头发颜色进行颜色处理。
样本1,1/2英寸宽和8英寸长用与活性剂制剂混合的传统增亮成分增亮。将1oz的Joico Verocolor Veroxide显色剂-20体积与1oz的Joico Verolight漂色粉混合以形成增亮制剂。然后将9mL活性剂制剂添加至增亮制剂以形成混合物。
当头发放在铝箔上时,将混合物用施用器刷子施用至样本1头发上。然后用箔包裹样本,并使其处理35分钟。将样本冲洗并用洗发精洗发一次。
样本2,对照,1/2英寸宽和8英寸长用传统增亮成分在不存在的活性剂制剂情况下增亮。将1oz的Joico Verocolor Veroxide显色剂-20体积与1oz的Joico Verolight漂色粉混合以形成具有奶油稠度的增亮制剂。
当头发放在铝箔上时,将增亮制剂用施用器刷子施用在样本2头发上。然后用箔包裹样本,并使其处理35分钟。将样本冲洗并用洗发精洗发一次。
结果
观察到样本1与样本2的头发质量有显著差异。样本1头发比对照,样本2更松软、较少卷曲、看起来水润且更闪亮。
将两个样本再洗涤并调理5次,与对照,样本2(单独用增亮制剂处理)相比,样本1(用增亮制剂和活性剂制剂的混合物处理)具有相同显著的益处。
实施例4:用与活性剂制剂同时施用的漂色制剂处理的头发与单独用漂色制剂处理的头发的比较
概述
从人受试者获得两个头发样品并切成1/2英寸宽纬丝。
方法
(1)将0.5盎司的增亮粉(Clairol Professional,Basic White)和0.5盎司的调理霜显色剂(Redken,Blonde Icing)合并形成漂色混合物。将3.5g的2-(甲基丙烯酰基氧基)乙-1-铵(Z)-3-羧基丙烯酸酯(在水中12重量%)添加至漂色混合物并用刷子充分混合。
(2)将制备的漂色混合物用刷子刷到头发样本上以充分涂覆头发缕。将混合物涂覆的头发包裹在铝纸中并使其在环境条件下静置两个小时的时间段。
(3)在两小时漂色时期后,将头发样本用洗发精洗涤,随后使头发风干。
结果
观察到样本1与样本2之间的头发质量有显著差异。显示样本1头发没有可识别的断裂、触感良好和健康的外观,而对照(单独用漂色制剂处理)显示一些断裂、具有粗糙的触感且被磨损且具有不健康外观。
实施例5:用与活性剂制剂同时施用的漂色制剂处理的头发与单独用漂色制剂处理的头发的比较
概述
从人受试者获得两个头发样品并切成1/2英寸宽纬丝。
方法
(1)将0.5盎司的增亮粉(Clairol Professional,Basic White)和0.5盎司的调理霜显色剂(Redken,Blonde Icing)合并形成漂色混合物。将3.5g的丙-2-烯-1-铵(Z)-3-羧基丙烯酸酯(在水中10重量%)添加至漂色混合物并用刷子充分混合。
(2)将制备的漂色混合物用刷子刷到头发样本上以充分涂覆头发缕。将混合物涂覆的头发包裹在铝纸中并使其在环境条件下静置两个小时的时间段。
(3)在两小时漂色时期后,将头发样本用洗发精洗涤,随后使头发风干。
结果
观察到样本1与样本2之间的头发质量有显著差异。显示样本1没有可识别的断裂、触感良好和健康的外观,而对照(单独用漂色制剂处理)显示一些断裂、具有粗糙的触感且被磨损且具有不健康外观。
实施例6:传统电烫对比使用马来酸的电烫的比较
概述
从人受试者获得头发样品并切成1/2英寸宽纬丝。
还原剂:巯基乙酸铵(ATG)从由Zotos制造的永久性波浪工具包获得。10g溶液中的300mg二硫苏糖醇还用作还原剂。
活性剂制剂:使用浓度为10g总溶液(水)中的200mg的马来酸。
方法
使用活性剂电烫头发的方法
将头发用清洁洗发精洗涤、用毛巾擦干,然后卷绕在电烫棒上。然后将巯基乙酸铵或二硫苏糖醇施用至头发并在头发上停留10分钟至1小时。然后冲洗头发30秒至1分钟,然后用毛巾涂抹干燥。
将活性剂制剂经由针形鼻施用器施用至头发,浸渍头发。使活性剂制剂在头发上停留约7.5分钟的时间段。将头发用活性剂制剂再浸渍一次,并再停留7.5分钟,总共15分钟。然后用水冲洗头发约1-2分钟,然后从电烫棒上展开。在将头发从电烫棒移除后,将头发用各种沙龙洗发精和护发素品牌(包括保湿洗发精和保湿护发素)洗发并调理。洗涤和干燥步骤重复40次。
将第二部分的头发如上所述电烫,例外是使用过氧化氢替代活性剂制剂。
结果
两种电烫(使用活性剂制剂或过氧化氢)仅显示在40次使用相同的洗发精和护发素进行洗涤和干燥循环之后总卷曲减少。然而,与使用过氧化氢的电烫相比,使用活性剂制剂的电烫的外观和质地显示更有光泽和更少的卷曲。
实施例7:由于重复施用传统电烫和活性剂制剂导致的头发断裂的比较。
方法
获得两个头发样品。将两个样品用二硫苏糖醇或巯基乙酸铵如实施例4所述处理。将一个头发样品随后用活性剂制剂(水中的马来酸)处理,而另一个用过氧化氢中和。在用活性剂制剂处理头发的当天完成过程。用过氧化氢的样品(传统电烫)在三天内完成过程。
经48小时的时间段对每个头发样品重复程序三次。
结果
目检后,用活性剂制剂处理的第二头发样品显示几乎无或无断裂迹象。然而,用过氧化氢处理的第一头发样品显示了显著的断裂。
实施例8:与之前用日本直发膏直发的头发的受损程度的比较
方法
获得两个头发样品,第一个之前用日本直发膏(Japanese relaxer)(Yuko)拉直而第二个之前用无碱液直发膏(no lye relaxer)(African Pride Miracle DeepConditioning)拉直。将样品如实施例4和5所述使用活性剂制剂(水中的马来酸)处理。
获得另一个之前用无碱液直发膏(African Pride Miracle Deep Conditioning)拉直的头发样品。将该样品用传统头发拉直电烫(Zotos)处理。
结果
用活性剂制剂处理的头发样品显示没有显著受损。然而,用传统电烫处理的样品甚至在施用期间显示显著断裂。
Claims (10)
3.如权利要求1和2中任一项所述的方法,其中所述接头Z是烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基或杂芳基
其中所述烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基或杂芳基或聚合物是未取代的或被以下基团取代一次或多次:卤素、氰基、烷氧基、烷基、烯基、环烷基、环烯基、芳基、杂环烷基、杂芳基、胺、羟基、氧代、甲酰基、酰基、羧酸(-COOH)、-C(O)R1、-C(O)OR1、(-COO-)、伯胺(例如,-CONH2)、仲胺(例如,-CONHR1)、-C(O)NR1R2、-NR1R2、-NR1S(O)2R2、-NR1C(O)R2、-S(O)2R2、-SR1、-S(O)2NR1R2、-SOR1或-SOOR1;
其中R1和R2各自独立地选自由以下组成的组:氢、烷基、烯基、炔基、环烷基、芳基、杂环烷基和杂芳基,其中R1和R2的每一个独立地为未取代的或被一个或多个取代基取代。
4.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法,其中所述接头Z是C1-4烷基。
5.如权利要求4所述的方法,其中所述烷基被替代烷基烃主链的一个或多个碳上的氢的一个或多个取代基取代,或者所述烷基被所述烃碳主链内的一个或多个杂原子取代,或其组合,且
其中所述取代基选自由以下组成的组:氧代、羟基、羧基、酰胺基和氨基。
6.如任何前述权利要求所述的方法,其还包括以下步骤:
施用包含能够还原所述头发内的二硫键的还原剂的第一制剂以产生游离硫醇基团,
其中所述步骤在步骤(a)之前进行。
7.如权利要求6所述的方法,其中所述还原剂选自由以下组成的组:巯基乙酸及其衍生物盐和酯、硫代乳酸及其衍生物盐和酯、半胱氨酸及其衍生物、半胱胺及其衍生物、无机亚硫酸盐、焦亚硫酸钠、其它无机亚硫酸氢盐、二硫苏糖醇、二硫赤藓糖醇、有机膦和日本直发膏。
8.如权利要求1-5中任一项所述的方法,其还包括在步骤(a)之前或与其同时,
将着色制剂施用至所述头发,所述着色制剂包含染发剂和能够还原所述头发内的二硫键以产生游离硫醇基团的还原剂。
9.如权利要求8所述的方法,其中在步骤(a)之前将所述着色制剂施用至所述头发。
10.如权利要求1-5中任一项所述的方法,其还包括在步骤(a)之前或与其同时将漂色制剂施用至所述头发,所述漂色制剂包含增亮所述头发且产生游离硫醇基团的漂色剂。
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