CN113730321A - Anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents

Anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDF

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CN113730321A
CN113730321A CN202111161931.6A CN202111161931A CN113730321A CN 113730321 A CN113730321 A CN 113730321A CN 202111161931 A CN202111161931 A CN 202111161931A CN 113730321 A CN113730321 A CN 113730321A
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wrinkle
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skin
use according
firming
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CN113730321B (en
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闫继鹏
丛琳
李雪竹
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Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics, relating to the technical field of cosmetics; the anti-wrinkle compact composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: carnosine: 0.01-0.1 part; oligopeptide-4: 1-5 ppm; palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 5-50 ppm; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 1-10 ppm; oat kernel extract: 0.02-0.5 part. The invention selects the carnosine, the oligopeptide-4, the palmitoyl tripeptide-5, the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and the oat kernel extract, the five components complement each other in mechanism, and have synergistic effect, and the whole addition amount of the composition can achieve remarkable effects of resisting wrinkles, removing wrinkles and tightening within a very low range.

Description

Anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics.
Background
The skin is used as the first barrier of the human body, resists the invasion of external complex environment, the barrier function of the skin is reduced along with the influence of the environment and the aging of the skin, and collagen, elastin and the like in the skin are gradually reduced, so that the skin has aging phenomena such as wrinkles, elasticity loss and the like.
Many conventional cosmetics employ techniques such as pseudo-filling, and thus cannot truly improve skin wrinkles, sagging, and the like for a long period of time. At present, a great part of firming and anti-wrinkle cosmetics use peptides and peptide compositions to achieve the purpose. It is known that a single peptide requires a large amount to achieve a certain tightening and anti-wrinkle effect. The combination of various peptides becomes one direction of the existing compact and anti-wrinkle cosmetics. However, the current technical scheme is simple compounding of various peptides, and the synergistic effect of action mechanisms is not realized. And the use amount of various peptide raw materials is extremely large, so that the product cost is high, but the effect is common.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide an anti-wrinkle firming composition and an application thereof in cosmetics, wherein the anti-wrinkle firming composition is prepared from five components, namely carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract, which are complementary in mechanism and have a synergistic effect, and the whole addition amount of the anti-wrinkle firming composition can achieve remarkable anti-wrinkle, wrinkle-removing and firming effects within a very low range.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the anti-wrinkle and anti-firming composition is composed of the following components in parts by weight:
carnosine: 0.01-0.1 part;
oligopeptide-4: 1-5 ppm;
palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 5-50 ppm;
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 1-10 ppm;
oat kernel extract: 0.02-0.5 part.
The invention is obtained by deeply researching the factors influencing the skin state: the primary function of skin fibroblasts is to provide toughness and elasticity by producing extracellular matrix components, including collagen and elastin. Aged fibroblasts enter a growth state and arrest, and undergo functional changes (called cellular senescence), resulting in skin damage and oxidative stress. Aged fibroblasts secrete growth factors, cytokines and degrading enzymes, resulting in loss of skin elasticity, delayed wound healing and altered surface morphology.
In cells, mitochondria act as "power factories" for cells, they absorb nutrients and convert them into energy to perform various biological functions. In aging cells, mitochondrial metabolism is imbalanced, leading to severe skin damage, reduced energy production, increased ROS and excess mitochondrial dna (mtdna). Mitochondrial dysfunction is associated with a number of age-related diseases and photoaging. Dysfunctional unhealthy mitochondria can reduce energy production and increase oxidative stress.
The damage to the skin caused by portions of UV at different wavelengths is widely recognized. However, there is no general understanding of visible and infrared light damage to the skin.
UVC: almost all of which is absorbed by the ozone layer. UVB: DNA damage, sun burn. UVA: DNA oxidation, immunosuppression, color deposition. Visible-blue light portion: excessive color deposition, oxidation pressure. Visible-red light portion: the oxidation pressure. IRA: heat, oxidative damage. It is seen that UVB directly damages DNA, UVA, visible and infrared light induce the formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS).
Glycosylation reactions are cross-linking reactions between sugars and proteins that ultimately result in unusual products: AGEs (glycosylated end products). AGEs are inter-linked proteins that have lost biological activity. AGEs are toxic to cells. Crosslinking of collagen can lead to skin hardening and increased wrinkling.
Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) attack nuclear and mitochondrial dna (mtdna), activate signal pathways, modify gene expression, initiate inflammation, and further destroy key biomolecules. Proinflammatory cytokines (e.g., TNF α) and MMPs are released, contributing to the worsening of inflammation (inflammation, swelling, redness). MMP: degrading skin proteins (e.g., collagen and elastin). Tumor necrosis factor (TNF α): the local increase triggers inflammation.
Free radicals are regulated by the skin's own nonenzymatic (vitamin C/E) and antioxidase systems (GSH/GSSG, TRX/TRXR), and excessive accumulation of free radicals breaks the redox balance, producing oxidative stress, and the skin is thus damaged. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF α) activate amino terminal kinases (JNK) and protein kinases (p38), inducing the production of MMPs and more cytokines, leading to further inflammation. TRX can bind to ASK1 and control the regulation of p38 and JNK activation.
The antioxidant enzyme has high active oxygen scavenging effect, thereby effectively restoring skin dynamic balance. The thioredoxin system contains thioredoxin-1 (TRX-1), which acts as a regulator of thiol/disulfide redox, scavenging Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) in cells and preventing photoaging.
Aiming at factors influencing the skin state, the anti-wrinkle firming cosmetic composition provided by the invention is a supplement of skin essential polypeptide, wherein the skin resistance can be enhanced by the carnosine, and the young state of cells is maintained by maintaining the activity of the cells in a full spectrum wave band and under a free radical condition; by increasing the production of collagen, the skin becomes delicate and elastic again. Carnosine reacts with sugars and aldehydes of low molecular weight, reducing the production of carbonyl protein through the mediation of these molecules, inhibiting the glycation reaction, and obviously promoting the production of collagen. Anti-glycosylation-protects collagen and other structural proteins from degradation. Carnosine enhances the intercellular antioxidant capacity. In the epidermal and dermal layers, carnosine is a quencher that is very potent for UV-induced free radical ROS. In human body test, carnosine can well inhibit MMP-1 up-regulation induced by infrared. In the invention, the carnosine and other four components have synergistic effect, and can play good effect only within a small addition amount range (0.01-0.1%).
In the present invention, oligopeptide-4, similar to thioredoxin-1 (plant-TRX-1), has a function of protecting skin cells from inflammation and photoaging caused by radiation-induced Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and tumor necrosis factor (TNFa) at a small addition amount (1-5 ppm).
According to the invention, the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 can be combined with other four components to play roles in preventing collagen degradation and promoting collagen generation when the addition amount is 5-50 ppm.
According to the invention, when the addition amount of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is 1-10ppm, the synthesis of type I collagen, type III collagen and fibronectin in fibroblasts can be stimulated. It can stimulate the generation of type IV collagen on aging fibroblast, and can reduce wrinkle and make skin smooth and glossy.
The oat kernel extract is a molecule with elasticity and toughness, and is taken from a purified component of oat branch type natural polysaccharide. The complex polysaccharide with high molecular weight is connected with intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds, is attached to the skin surface in the form of a continuously adhesive firming film, and has the effects of firming, resisting wrinkles and smoothing. In the present invention, the amount of addition is only 0.02 to 0.5%.
The five components complement each other in mechanism, and have synergistic effect. Therefore, the effects of resisting wrinkles, removing wrinkles and tightening can be achieved within a very low addition range.
According to a preferable technical scheme, the anti-wrinkle and anti-firming composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
carnosine: 0.02-0.08 portion;
oligopeptide-4: 2-3 ppm;
palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 10-30 ppm;
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 3-8 ppm;
oat kernel extract: 0.05 to 0.3 portion.
In a second aspect, there is provided a use of the anti-wrinkle tightening composition according to the first aspect in the preparation of a cosmetic. The formulation of the cosmetic includes, but is not limited to, cream, lotion, aqua, essence, mask, gel, makeup base, and spray.
Further, the anti-wrinkle compact composition in the cosmetic is 0.0307-0.0665% by mass.
Further, the cosmetic also comprises a cosmetic matrix auxiliary material: 99.9335-99.9693 percent.
In the invention, the cosmetic matrix auxiliary materials are all the matrix auxiliary materials commonly used in the cosmetic field; preferably, the cosmetic base auxiliary material is selected from one or more of emulsifier, emollient, solubilizer, thickener, skin conditioner, humectant, pH regulator, preservative, chelating agent, essence and water.
Preferably, the humectant in the present invention is one or more selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, methyl gluceth-20, methyl gluceth-10, glycerin acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glycerin polyether-26, polyglycerin-6, polyglycerin-10, betaine, and hyaluronic acid.
As a preferred embodiment, the emollient in the present invention is selected from one or more of squalane, jojoba seed oil, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl myristate, shea butter, olive oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, C13-14 isoparaffin.
As a preferable technical scheme, the thickening agent in the invention is selected from one or more of carrageenan, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, gellan gum, polyacrylamide and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
As a preferable technical scheme, the pH adjusting agent in the present invention is selected from one or more of citric acid, sodium citrate, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, arginine, acetic acid, lactic acid, fruit acid, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, and disodium hydrogen phosphate; more preferably, the pH adjusting agent is arginine or citric acid or sodium citrate.
As a preferred technical solution, the chelating agent in the present invention is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA and combinations thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the skin conditioner of the present invention is tocopherol acetate.
As a preferred technical scheme, the preservative in the invention is a common preservative in the field of cosmetics, and is preferably a mild preservative; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin; more preferably, the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
As a preferable technical scheme, the essence disclosed by the invention is a common essence in the field of cosmetics, and is selected from one or more of faint scent essence, floral essence, fruity essence and compound scent essence.
The solubilizer is a common solubilizer in the field of cosmetics, and is PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
In the present invention, the water is water that meets the cosmetic requirements.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the anti-wrinkle firming composition selects the five components of carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract, wherein the carnosine reacts with sugar and low molecular weight aldehyde, the generation of carbonyl protein is reduced through the mediation of the molecules, the saccharification reaction is inhibited, and the generation of collagen can be obviously promoted; oligopeptide-4 has the function of protecting skin cells from radiation-induced active oxygen, inflammation and photoaging caused by matrix metalloproteinase-9 and tumor necrosis factor; palmitoyl tripeptide-5 has the functions of preventing collagen degradation and promoting collagen generation; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can stimulate the synthesis of type I collagen, type III collagen and fibronectin in fibroblasts, has an effect of stimulating the generation of type IV collagen on aging fibroblasts, can reduce wrinkles and enable the skin to be smoother and glossy; the oat kernel extract is connected with intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds, is adhered to the skin surface in the form of a continuously adhesive firming membrane, and has effects of firming skin, removing wrinkle and smoothing; the five components complement each other in mechanism, have a synergistic effect, and compared with the existing anti-wrinkle firming product, the whole addition amount of the anti-wrinkle firming product is in a very low range, so that the anti-wrinkle, anti-wrinkle and firming effects can be more remarkable.
Additional aspects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part in the description which follows, and in part will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described and illustrated with reference to specific embodiments in order to more fully understand the technical content of the present invention; it is to be understood that the embodiments described below are only a few embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments; all other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
The features, benefits and advantages of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.
All percentages, fractions and ratios are calculated on the total mass of the composition of the invention, unless otherwise indicated. The term "mass content" herein may be represented by the symbol "%".
The use of "including," "comprising," "containing," "having," or other variations thereof herein, is meant to encompass the non-exclusive inclusion, as such terms are not to be construed. The term "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients can be added that do not affect the end result. The term "comprising" also includes the terms "consisting of and" consisting essentially of. The compositions and methods/processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.
The essence and the preservative are conventional additives in the cosmetic technical field, and the amount of the essence and the preservative can be added by those skilled in the art according to the specification of the type and the content of the essence and the preservative in the cosmetic according to the design requirement of the product.
The base materials defined in the examples and comparative examples can be added according to the kind described in the present application and the amount to be added to the cosmetic, as required by the product design.
Examples 1 to 4
Examples 1-4 provide an anti-wrinkle and anti-firming composition, which specifically consists of:
example 1: carnosine: 0.02 percent; oligopeptide-4: 2 ppm; palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 5 ppm; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 2 ppm; oat kernel extract: 0.05 percent.
Example 2: carnosine: 0.04 percent; oligopeptide-4: 3 ppm; palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 10 ppm; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 3 ppm; oat kernel extract: 0.1 percent.
Example 3: carnosine: 0.06 percent; oligopeptide-4: 4 ppm; palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 20 ppm; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 5 ppm; oat kernel extract: 0.2 percent.
Example 4: carnosine: 0.08 percent; oligopeptide-4: 5 ppm; palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 40 ppm; palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 8 ppm; oat kernel extract: 0.4 percent.
Examples 5 to 8
Examples 5 to 8 provide cosmetics including the anti-wrinkle tightening composition of examples 1 to 4, in particular, in the form of an anti-wrinkle tightening essence.
The anti-wrinkle and firming essence of examples 5 to 8 and the blank example was prepared according to the formula composition in the following table 1.
Table 1: formulation composition (%)
Figure BDA0003290542870000071
Figure BDA0003290542870000081
Comparative examples 1 to 10
Comparative examples 1 to 10 provide a cosmetic, specifically, a formulation of the cosmetic is an anti-wrinkle and firming essence; the anti-wrinkle and firming essence of comparative examples 1 to 10 was prepared according to the formulation composition in table 2 below.
Table 2: formulation composition (%)
Figure BDA0003290542870000082
Comparative examples 11 to 15
Comparative examples 11 to 15 provide cosmetics, specifically, in the form of an anti-wrinkle and firming essence;
the anti-wrinkle and firming essence of comparative examples 11 to 15 was prepared according to the formulation composition in table 3 below.
Table 3: formulation composition (%)
Serial number Composition (I) Comparative example 11 Comparative example 12 Comparative example 13 Comparative example 14 Comparative example 15
1 Carnosine 0 0.06% 0.06% 0.06% 0.06%
2 Oligopeptide-4 4ppm 0 4ppm 4ppm 4ppm
3 Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 20ppm 20ppm 0 20ppm 20ppm
4 Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 5ppm 5ppm 5ppm 0 5ppm
5 Oat kernel extract 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0
6 Oligopeptide-1 0.06% 0 0 0 0
7 Oligopeptide-2 0 4ppm 0 0 0
8 Tetrapeptide-7 0 0 20ppm 0 0
9 Hexapeptide-9 0 0 0 5ppm 0
10 Oat extract 0 0 0 0 0.2%
11 Essence base material Balance of Balance of Balance of Balance of Balance of
The essential liquid bases in tables 1-3 are: carbomer (thickener) 0.2%, jojoba seed oil (emollient) 0.2%, butylene glycol (humectant) 2.5%, disodium EDTA (chelating agent) 0.02%, methylparaben (preservative) 0.1%, tocopherol acetate (skin conditioner) 0.05%, arginine (pH adjuster) 0.08%, phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.3%, essence 0.05%, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (solubilizer) 0.2%, and the balance of deionized water.
The essence base stock can be replaced and added according to actual design requirements.
The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:
according to the proportion, deionized water, carbomer, jojoba seed oil, butanediol, EDTA disodium and methylparaben are added into a water kettle, stirred and heated to 55 ℃, kept warm and stirred for 40 minutes, cooled to 40 ℃, added with arginine, tocopheryl acetate, phenoxyethanol, the anti-wrinkle firming composition (carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract), added with PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil pre-solubilized transparent essence, and stirred uniformly to obtain the corresponding anti-wrinkle firming essence.
Effect verification test:
skin firmness effect test and anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effect test
The test samples and methods of use are shown in Table 4, and the measured parameters are shown in tables 5 and 6.
Table 4:
Figure BDA0003290542870000101
table 5:
Figure BDA0003290542870000102
table 6:
Figure BDA0003290542870000103
subject information:
female subjects aged 25-40 years had loose, under-tightened facial skin and significant fine line problems at the corners of the eyes.
The recruitment scenario is shown in table 7.
Table 7:
number of subjects recruited 200
Number of visitors 195
Number of persons taking in 190
Data analysis of effective number of persons 190
The subjects were divided into 19 groups of 10 persons each, the same group of subjects used the same samples, controls 1-15 or examples 5, 6, 7, 8 were used half-face, blanks were used half-face, and the test values were averaged for each group.
Table 8 uses sample correspondence information for the test groups.
Table 8:
Figure BDA0003290542870000111
Figure BDA0003290542870000121
the testing steps are as follows:
after the subject had been allowed to rest in a laboratory environment for 30 minutes at D0, D14, D28, respectively, the subject was subjected to image acquisition and testing using a corresponding skin elasticity tester Cutometer and a skin rapid optical imaging system PRIMOS.
And (3) testing results:
skin firmness: the Courage + Khazaka skin elasticity tester Cutometer is used for detecting a skin tightness parameter F4, and the smaller the measurement value, the better the skin tightness is. Tables 9 and 10 mean, change and rate of change of the skin tightening parameter F4 values at different time points for 19 groups of subjects using different test samples
Table 9:
Figure BDA0003290542870000122
Figure BDA0003290542870000131
table 10:
Figure BDA0003290542870000132
Figure BDA0003290542870000141
from the test results of tables 9 and 10, it can be obtained: comparing the data of groups 1-10 and 16, 17, 18, 19, the F4 values of groups 16, 17, 18, 19 were most significantly reduced, indicating that examples 5, 6, 7, 8 had significant tightening effects; wherein, when only one of carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract is adopted in the control examples 1-5, the tightening effect is remarkably reduced; in comparative examples 6 to 10, in the absence of any one of carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract, the tightening effect was improved compared with the essence in comparative examples 1 to 5, but in the case that the total amount of the active ingredients was almost similar, the tightening effect was also significantly reduced compared with the essence in examples 5, 6, 7 and 8; the five components complement each other in mechanism, and have synergistic effect.
Compared with the data of the 11 th to 15 th groups and the data of the 16 th, 17 th, 18 th and 19 th groups, other peptides with tightening effects are adopted to replace one of the components of the invention respectively, and the tightening effect of the replaced essence is obviously weakened. The five components of the composition have synergistic compaction effects, are not easily replaced by other peptides, and cannot achieve the same effect by replacing the conventional peptides with good compaction effects.
Skin wrinkle volume: the Canfieldsci skin rapid optical imaging system PRIMOS was used to detect skin wrinkle volume, with smaller values indicating a smaller wrinkle volume. The larger the numerical value reduction rate is, the better the anti-wrinkle effect of the sample is. Table 11 shows the test value change rate.
Table 11:
Figure BDA0003290542870000142
Figure BDA0003290542870000151
from the test results of table 11, it can be seen: comparing the data of groups 1-10 and 16, 17, 18, 19, the F4 values of groups 16, 17, 18, 19 were most significantly reduced, which indicates that examples 5, 6, 7, 8 had significant anti-wrinkle and anti-wrinkle effects; wherein, when only one of carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel extract is adopted in the control examples 1-5, the anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effects are obviously reduced; in comparison examples 6-10, the anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effects of the extracts of carnosine, oligopeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and oat kernel are improved compared with those of the extracts of comparison examples 1-5, but the anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effects of the extracts of examples 5, 6, 7 and 8 are also remarkably reduced when the total amount of the active substances is basically similar to that of the extracts of examples 5, 6, 7 and 8; the five components complement each other in mechanism, and have synergistic effect.
Compared with the data of the 11 th to 15 th groups and the data of the 16 th, 17 th, 18 th and 19 th groups, other peptides with the anti-wrinkle and anti-wrinkle effects are adopted to respectively replace one of the components, and the anti-wrinkle and anti-wrinkle effects of the replaced essence are obviously weakened. The five components of the composition have synergistic anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-removing effects, and are not easy to be replaced by other peptides.
In conclusion, the five components have synergistic anti-wrinkle, wrinkle-removing and tightening effects, are not easily replaced by other peptides, and cannot achieve the same effect by replacing the five components with the existing peptides with better anti-wrinkle, wrinkle-removing and tightening effects.
Safety test
1. The number of tested persons: 30 persons in total, 2 men and 28 women; minimum age: 25 years, maximum age: age 42; mean age 33.2 ± 9 years volunteer enrollment criteria.
2. The test method comprises the following steps: examples 5-8 were tested for patch. Selecting a qualified spot tester, placing about 0.020-0.025 mL of a tested object into the spot tester by using a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).
3. The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 12 below.
Table 12: grading standard of adverse skin reactions
Figure BDA0003290542870000161
The result of the human skin closed patch test shows that 0 of 30 persons has positive reaction, and the test object does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of test objects according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).
Stability test
1. Stability test samples: the essences of examples 5 to 8.
2. The test method comprises the following steps: the internal control standard (illumination for 1 month and high and low temperature test for 3 months) is higher than the national standard and the industrial standard; the high and low temperature test is a cycle of placing at-8 +/-2 ℃ and 40 +/-1 ℃ for 24 hours respectively;
3. the test results are shown in Table 13 below.
Table 13:
Figure BDA0003290542870000171
Figure BDA0003290542870000181
from the results of Table 13 above, it can be seen that: the anti-wrinkle and firming essence prepared in the embodiments 5 to 8 of the invention has good stability in product application.
Further, through tests, the cosmetics containing the anti-wrinkle firming composition disclosed by the invention are prepared into cosmetics of other dosage forms, such as anti-wrinkle firming cream, anti-wrinkle firming emulsion, anti-wrinkle firming water aqua, anti-wrinkle firming mask, anti-wrinkle firming gel, anti-wrinkle firming base makeup, anti-wrinkle firming spray and the like, and the cosmetics of other dosage forms have the same effect as the cosmetics confirmed in the embodiment within the range of the proportioning disclosed by the invention.
When the cosmetic formulation is an anti-wrinkle firming emulsion, an anti-wrinkle firming cream or an anti-wrinkle firming gel, those skilled in the art can appropriately add an emulsifier and a thickener according to actual product design and relevant regulations.
The technical solutions provided by the embodiments of the present invention are described in detail above, and the principles and embodiments of the present invention are explained herein by using specific examples, and the descriptions of the embodiments are only used to help understanding the principles of the embodiments of the present invention; meanwhile, for a person skilled in the art, according to the embodiments of the present invention, there may be variations in the specific implementation manners and application ranges, and in summary, the content of the present description should not be construed as a limitation to the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The anti-wrinkle firming composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
carnosine: 0.01-0.1 part;
oligopeptide-4: 1-5 ppm;
palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 5-50 ppm;
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 1-10 ppm;
oat kernel extract: 0.02-0.5 part.
2. The anti-wrinkle tightening composition according to claim 1, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight:
carnosine: 0.02-0.08 portion;
oligopeptide-4: 2-3 ppm;
palmitoyl tripeptide-5: 10-30 ppm;
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: 3-8 ppm;
oat kernel extract: 0.05 to 0.3 portion.
3. Use of the anti-wrinkle tightening composition according to claim 1 or 2 in the preparation of cosmetics.
4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the wrinkle-resistant firming composition is contained in the cosmetic in an amount of 0.0307-0.0665% by mass.
5. The use according to claim 4, wherein the cosmetic further comprises a cosmetic base adjuvant: 99.9335-99.9693 percent.
6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the cosmetic base adjuvants are selected from one or more of emulsifiers, emollients, solubilizers, thickeners, skin conditioners, moisturizers, pH regulators, preservatives, chelating agents, fragrances, water.
7. Use according to claim 6, wherein the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, methyl gluceth-20, methyl gluceth-10, glycerol acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, glycerol polyether-26, polyglycerol-6, polyglycerol-10, betaine, hyaluronic acid.
8. Use according to claim 6, wherein the emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, jojoba seed oil, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, mineral oil, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl myristate, shea butter, olive oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, triglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, C13-14 isoparaffins.
9. The use according to claim 6, wherein the thickener is selected from one or more of carrageenan, acrylates/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymers, carbomers, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, gellan gum, polyacrylamide, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
10. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic formulation comprises creams, lotions, essences, masks, gels, foundations and sprays.
CN202111161931.6A 2021-09-30 2021-09-30 Anti-wrinkle firming composition and application thereof in cosmetics Active CN113730321B (en)

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