CN112313003A - 用于形成含有液晶结构的乳液的方法 - Google Patents
用于形成含有液晶结构的乳液的方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN112313003A CN112313003A CN201980041712.9A CN201980041712A CN112313003A CN 112313003 A CN112313003 A CN 112313003A CN 201980041712 A CN201980041712 A CN 201980041712A CN 112313003 A CN112313003 A CN 112313003A
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- phospholipids
- liquid crystal
- cetyl alcohol
- phospholipid
- skin
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Images
Classifications
-
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Abstract
公开了使用指定的匀化器配置，即定子和转子以及剪切能量密度，以在带负电的磷脂和/或磷脂衍生物与脂肪醇之间形成液晶结构。
Description
技术领域
使用指定的匀化器配置，即定子和转子以及剪切能量密度，以在(1)带负电的磷脂和/或磷脂衍生物；与(2)脂肪醇类之间形成液晶结构。
具体公开了鲸蜡磷酸钾氢化棕榈甘油酯(
Symrise，HLB13-14)和鲸蜡醇的使用。
液晶结构组合物可使用带负电的磷脂(即，阴离子磷脂)配制。磷脂的溶解度极限取决于液晶结构组合物的总组成，并且可根据组合物中的其它成分而变化。作为指导原则，上限将为大约3.5重量％。
如本文所用，磷脂是指由亲水性头部和疏水性尾部组成的分子。磷脂趋于排列并且自身布置成两个平行的层，称为磷脂双层。构成细胞膜的此类层对于细胞发挥功能的能力是至关重要的。当磷脂带负电时，其模拟人类皮肤。
为使液晶结构组合物更像皮肤，所述组合物可含有pH调节剂以保持所述组合物的pH接近人类皮肤的pH，即约4至约5.5的pH，尽管设想稍高于和稍低于该pH也在本发明的范围内。此外，通常存在于护肤组合物中的成分，例如活性成分、着色剂和芳香剂，可被包含于所述组合物中，并且所得组合物将仍落在本发明组合物的范围内。
在本发明的液晶结构组合物中使用阴离子磷脂或带负电的磷脂在上述有益结果中起作用。磷脂在它们的极性头部基团的大小、形状和电荷方面不同。它们可为阴离子的、阳离子的或非离子的。
在磷脂中，为了本发明的目的，阴离子磷脂被包含在液晶结构中。阴离子磷脂的示例包括二肉豆蔻酰磷脂酰甘油、二棕榈酰磷脂酰甘油、二硬脂酰磷脂酰甘油、二油酰磷脂酰甘油、油酰棕榈酰磷脂酰甘油、二棕榈酰磷脂酰丝氨酸、二油酰磷脂酰丝氨酸、二肉豆蔻酰磷脂酰肌醇、二棕榈酰磷脂酰肌醇、磷脂酰乙醇胺、二硬脂酰磷脂酰肌醇、二油酰磷脂酰肌醇、二肉豆蔻酰磷脂酰丝氨酸和二硬脂酰磷脂酰丝氨酸。在这些材料中，磷酸甘油酯和磷脂酰乙醇胺为优选的磷脂。
磷脂和/或磷脂衍生物的其它示例包括例如天然磷脂衍生物，诸如蛋PC(蛋卵磷脂)、蛋PG、大豆PC、氢化大豆PC、鞘磷脂作为天然磷脂；以及合成磷脂衍生物，诸如磷脂酸(DMPA、DPPA、DSPA)；磷脂酰胆碱(DDPC、DLPC、DMPC、DPPC、DSPC、DOPC、POPC、DEPC)；磷脂酰甘油(DMPG、DPPG、DSPG、POPG)；磷脂酰乙醇胺(DMPE、DPPE、DSPE DOPE)；磷脂酰丝氨酸(DOPS)；PEG磷脂(mPEG-磷脂、聚甘油-磷脂、官能化的磷脂、末端活化的磷脂)。
随着磷脂的浓度增加，在组合物内溶解和分布变得更加困难。如果总磷脂含量超过其溶解度极限并且不完全溶解，则其可作为分离相存在，从而导致在使用该组合物后对皮肤的发粘感。
可用于根据本发明的液晶结构组合物中的脂肪醇类包括衍生自油和脂肪(例如，来自植物或动物来源)或合成疏水基团的各种醇中的任一种。脂肪醇可包含任何数量的碳原子，诸如8至34个，优选7至22个碳原子，更优选9至16个碳原子，并且甚至更优选11至16个碳原子。合适的脂肪醇类每分子可包含一个或多个醇基团。在某些优选的实施方案中，脂肪醇包括脂肪醇类。示例为鲸蜡醇。
背景技术
乳液是个人护理产品最常用的递送体系，因为它们赋予期望的性质，诸如皮肤水合、皮肤相容性、物理特性、易施用性和消费者偏好。1,2
最近，具有液晶结构的乳液已受到工业关注。这些类型的乳液通常由可溶胀和增稠水的结晶材料构成。结晶网络通过结合水的材料的层状双层来稳定。当施用到皮肤表面时，所述结构表现出粘弹特性和剪切致稀效果。此外，液晶结构在稳定性、受控剥离和保湿方面具有比常规乳液体系更好的应用性能。3-5
含有液晶结构的个人护理产品的性质不仅取决于乳液制剂的组成，而且取决于制造方法。能量密度，
并且转子和定子的级数对于匀化是重要的元素。这些属性极大地影响可实现的最小液滴大小和材料的分子缔合，这极大地影响稳定性特征并且是确保液晶结构的稳固形成的关键因素。实现被描述为d＝c(Ev)b的最小粒度，其中c和b为常数，D为粒度，Ev为能量密度，确保了消费者可接受的美学外观。
新开发的基础结构(o/w乳液，见下表1中的详细配方)形成液晶结构。在该基础结构的方法开发期间遇到了挑战。例如，在室温下几天之后，在产品中观察到白斑。
发明人确定，指定的匀化器配置(包括转子和定子的三个级)得到含有具有良好特性的液晶的乳液。
附图说明
图1示出了(a)使用比较方法制备的产品(白斑)；和(2)根据本发明的方法制备的产品(无白斑)。
图2(a)至图2(d)示出了定子和转子的不同级。
图3(a)至图3(e)示出了在使用不同匀化器时产品的外观。
图4示出了斑聚集体内各个晶体的偏振光显微镜法图像。
图5示出了对产品中的白斑的SEM-EDS元素分析。
图6示出了
的SEM-EDS元素分析。
图7(a)至图7(d)示出了FT-IR色谱图结果。
图8(a)至图8(d)示出了DSC结果。
图9示出了角质层的层状液晶结构。
图10示出了
和鲸蜡醇的层状液晶结构。
具体实施方式
天然存在的皮肤脂质和甾醇，以及人造或天然油、湿润剂、润肤剂、润滑剂等可为本发明组合物的部分。
“润肤剂”是具有软化或舒缓皮肤性质的添加剂。润肤剂通常为在涂敷后将水保持在皮肤中并有助于使皮肤光滑的化合物的复杂混合物。润肤剂通过减少蒸发来增加皮肤的水合(水含量)。优选的润肤剂是椰油酸甘油酯，其为衍生自椰子油的甘油一酯、甘油二酯和甘油三酯的混合物。
“润肤剂蜡”或“蜡”为添加剂，该添加剂(1)具有润肤剂的特性；(2)为油基的；(3)在室温下为固体。优选的润肤剂蜡为鲸蜡醇、脂肪醇-棕榈酸盐/酯(也称为十六烷-1-醇或棕榈醇)，以商品名
16购自BAS F Care Creations(Monheim，Germany)。
16为用于在美容和药物水包油乳液中调节粘度的鲸蜡醇。它是以粒料或薄片供应的白色至浅黄色亲水性蜡。该产品具有228至234的羟基值，烃含量最大为0.5％，并且凝固点为47℃至50℃。鲸蜡醇的HLB值为约15.5。其他示例包括凡士林和有机硅衍生的成分，诸如环甲基硅酮。
“乳化剂”是使通常不可混溶的两种或更多种液体的混合物稳定的添加剂。乳化剂的示例为
其为购自Symrise GmbH&Co.(Holzmiden，Germany)的磷酸的酯的复杂混合物的钾盐的磷脂衍生物。
“胶凝剂”是可通过交联或中和形成聚合物胶凝组合物的添加剂。胶凝剂还可使乳液稳定，形成凝胶，增加粘度等。胶凝剂的示例包括聚丙烯酸酯(诸如卡波姆)和多糖(诸如纤维素)。优选的胶凝剂是卡波姆，它是由丙烯酸单体构成的聚合物化学品。
根据本发明的组合物优选含有以下量的指定成分：
约>0％至约10％，优选约2％至约6％的润肤剂(优选椰油酸甘油酯)；更优选约3％至约6％；
约>0％至约8％，优选约1％至约4％的润肤剂蜡(优选鲸蜡醇)；更优选约1.5％至约3％；
约0.2％至约1.4％，优选约0.4％至约1.4％的乳化剂(优选鲸蜡磷酸盐)；更优选约0.5％至约0.6％；
约0.4％至约0.6％，优选约0.4％至约0.55％的胶凝剂(优选卡波姆)；以及
约60％至约90％的水。
除非本文另外指明，否则所有百分比(％)均按重量计。
开发基础结构以实现由
Symrise，Inc.(Branchburg，NJ)(鲸蜡磷酸钾、氢化棕榈甘油酯)和鲸蜡醇形成的层状结构与皮肤下的脂质相的相似性。见图9。该配方的结构可见于图10中，其示出了
的极性头部和鲸蜡醇的极性头部。鲸蜡醇(脂肪醇)的嵌入干扰了结构的刚性，从而使产品更像流体。
从加工的观点来看，恰当的匀化器配置，即定子和转子以及剪切能量密度，确保脂肪醇向磷脂的成功“嵌入”，这得到良好的外观、稳定性特征和皮肤屏障保护。
实施例
为本发明提出了转子和定子的三个级以解决该问题。如下所示，通过增加停留时间和更湍流的混合，多个级增强了组合物中成分之间的混合和相互作用。
将本发明的方法用于表1中的配方以获得所需的特性。
表1的组合物可依照下述程序制备：
在主容器中引入水、乙二胺四乙酸二钠和卡波姆。
控制卡波姆的良好分散，并且然后加热至80℃。
添加甘油并控制温度(80℃)。
添加
椰油酸甘油酯和鲸蜡醇。
控制
完全熔化：80℃下15分钟的乳液相。
用氢氧化钠、对甲氧基苯甲酸的水溶液中和至靶标pH＝5.6。
开始冷却至35℃。
当温度达到40℃时，任选地添加乙基己基甘油；苯氧基乙醇，然后添加玉米淀粉。
检查纯度和pH的良好分散。如果需要的话，用氢氧化钠将pH调节至pH＝5.6。
表1
根据下表2中列出的方法条件以更大规模制备组合物。
表2
发明人确定，对于转子和定子匀化器的三个级，至少高于0.18至0.30(hp/lb/min)的能量密度得到具有所需特性的产品。
方法和结果
差示扫描量热法
差示扫描量热法(DSC)是一种热分析技术，其中增加样品和参考的温度所需的热量的差值作为温度的函数进行测量。在整个实验期间，样品和参考均保持在几乎相同的温度下。一般来讲，DSC分析的温度程序被设计成使得样品夹持器温度作为时间的函数线性地增加。参考样品应在待扫描的温度范围内具有明确限定的热容量。本文使用DSC来确认脂肪醇的水合，脂肪醇在该情况下为鲸蜡醇。DSC可揭示乳化剂的水合、各种组分间相互作用以及凝胶结构中结合力的实质。10。图8示出与
相比，在鲸蜡醇的加热期间观察到相对更高的峰，这可能是由于鲸蜡醇更少水合的事实。
FT-IR
傅里叶变换红外光谱(FT-IR)为用于获得固体、液体或气体的吸收或发射的红外光谱的技术。FT-IR光谱仪同时收集宽光谱范围内的高光谱分辨率数据。这赋予了优于色散光谱仪的显著优点，色散光谱仪一次测量窄波长范围内的强度。FT-IR用于表征和确认白斑的组分。图7展示了确认白斑为鲸蜡醇的晶体。
SEM-EDS
能量色散X射线光谱法(EDS)为与扫描电子显微镜法(SEM)结合使用的化学显微分析技术。电子束与样品靶标的能量色散X射线光谱法(EDS)相互作用产生多种发射，包括x射线。EDS可用于找到低至几微米的点大小的材料的化学组成，并且用于在宽得多的光栅区域上创建元素组成标测图。扫描电子显微镜(SEM)为一种通过用聚焦电子束扫描表面来产生样品的图像的电子显微镜。电子与样品中的原子相互作用，产生含有关于样品的表面形貌和组成的信息的各种信号。如由SEM所证实，白斑主要由鲸蜡醇构成(见图4和图5)。SEM元素分析揭示白斑由碳和氧、痕量的钠和氯构成，但未检测到磷，然而磷在
中被清楚地检测到。因此，确认白斑为鲸蜡醇。
全局匀化器的比较
为了进一步理解匀化对液晶结构的形成的重要性，采用与上文相同的方法，不同的是采用不同的匀化器。捕集结果并汇总于表3中。最终外观在图3(a)-3(e)中示出。结果表明，3级转子和定子以及相对高的能量密度获得具有良好外观的产品。假设从匀化器获得的更高能量确保
和鲸蜡醇的更好缔合，从而确保液晶结构的成功形成。
表3
结论
确认白斑来自结晶鲸蜡醇的聚集体。上述结果之间的明显差异可能是由于通过脂肪醇类与阴离子表面活性剂的分子缔合的匀化导致的液滴大小减小。
参照项目5的结果，其中仅采用1级和转子，Silverson L4RT实验室设备采用与中试和生产运行不同的技术。在该设备中，泵可用于控制产品的流速，继而可控制能量密度。LAB器械基本上使用一个强剪切能量并将其施加到小规模量的LAB产品。
为了更好地确保两种乳化剂之间的分子水平缔合，需要三级转子和定子以及高匀化能量。为了进一步证明假设，制备了另一个批次。该批次的外观结果是可接受的。见图1(b)。
应当理解，虽然已以举例的方式示出和描述了本公开的各个方面，但本文受权利要求书保护的本发明并不限于此，而是可根据本专利申请和/或任何衍生专利申请中提出的权利要求的范围以其它方式不同地实施。
参考
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Claims (4)
1.一种用于确保(1)带负电的磷脂和/或磷脂衍生物；与(2)脂肪醇之间的分子水平缔合的方法，包括：
使用三级转子和定子匀化器配置。
2.一种用于确保(1)带负电的磷脂和/或磷脂衍生物；与(2)脂肪醇之间的分子水平缔合的方法，包括：
使用高匀化器能量。
3.根据权利要求1所述的方法，还包括：
对于转子和定子匀化的三个级，采用至少约0.18hp/lb/min的能量。
4.一种组合物，所述组合物根据权利要求1所述的方法制备。
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