CN111820490B - Method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing - Google Patents
Method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing Download PDFInfo
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- CN111820490B CN111820490B CN201910301368.4A CN201910301368A CN111820490B CN 111820490 B CN111820490 B CN 111820490B CN 201910301368 A CN201910301368 A CN 201910301368A CN 111820490 B CN111820490 B CN 111820490B
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- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 84
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 59
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 15
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 70
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 230000000903 blocking effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 210000002414 leg Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009964 serging Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000037237 body shape Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 13
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 7
- 210000003746 feather Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002955 Art silk Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000001015 abdomen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000000396 iron Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000002372 labelling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 210000004417 patella Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/06—Trousers
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and ironing, which comprises the following steps: (1) Cutting the front piece of trousers, namely cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a wool mode, and opening the small crotch for cutting; (2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method; (3) The bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer; and (4) ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. Wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front fly of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are moved in, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of the iron is S-line, and the front fly and the hip circumference are pressed in and out at the two sides of the line of pressing; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: setting the drawing distance of the rear crotch part, folding the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece along the line of straightening and sewing, and ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece. The method of the invention improves the drawing and cutting efficiency and also improves the height conformity of the trousers pieces to the body shape.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for making trousers, in particular to a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing.
Background
The traditional industrialized production solves the problem of mass production, but still has the defects in the aspect of conforming to the personalized human body, for example, the fit degree of the crotch, the hip, the waist and other parts is not high, and the clothes purchased by consumers are difficult to completely reach the fit.
In the prior art, some trousers manufacturers process the three-dimensional shape of the trousers through a shaping machine, but the defect is that the difference of individual body types cannot be realized through unified shapes and unified shaping standards.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for cutting, ironing and making trousers, which solves the problem of low individual fitness of the existing making process, designs the shape and the size of the trousers according to individuals, adopts folding and stacking cutting methods and implements the folding and stacking cutting methods at the same time, improves the cutting efficiency of advanced customization of the trousers and reduces the cost.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides a method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) The bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces by adopting a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer;
(4) And (5) ironing the front trouser piece and the rear trouser piece.
Wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front opening of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are retracted, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of an iron is S-line, the retraction ironing is carried out on the two sides of the straightening line, the front trousers are folded along the straightening line and the curvature straightening line of the front trousers is ironed; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: set for the elongation of back crotch portion pull-out length 8.0 ~ 10 centimetres, set for according to the protrusion degree of buttock, the protrusion is little can select 8.0 centimetres, and the protrusion is big can select 10 centimetres, and the back part flatiron trend is the S line and returns the pull-out ironing in stile line both sides, follows the folding back trousers piece of stile line and irones back trousers piece curvature stile line.
Preferably, in step (1), the front pants pieces are cut, comprising:
(1.1) determining the length of trousers, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the size of a trouser opening, selecting a cloth, wherein the long edge of the cloth is = -4.0+ 1.0 of the length of trousers, the wide edge of the cloth is =4.0 +2.0cm of hip circumference, and the wide edge of the doubled cloth forms a double layer;
(1.2) drawing the front crotch: one end point of the long edge of the cloth is taken as a trouser length point a, a small crotch point b, ab = hip circumference/4 +1.0cm, a crotch erecting point c and a front fly point d are set on the long edge, cb is perpendicular to the long edge, cb = half hip circumference/10-1.0 cm, cd is parallel to ba, cd = half hip circumference/10 +2.5cm, bd is connected, a perpendicular line from the c point to the bd is intersected at the e point, the ce length is trisected, one third point on the ce, which is close to the e point, is connected with the small crotch point b and the front fly point d through an arc line to form the small crotch, the cd is prolonged to be intersected with the wide side at the f point, the f point is taken as a crotch erecting point, and the connecting point f, one third point of the line segment ce, d and b form a front arc line;
(1.3) drawing a trouser pipeline: setting the other end point of the long edge of the cloth as a trouser length outer starting point h, setting a trouser length inner starting point g on the wide edge, gh = 1/2-trouser mouth/2 cm of the wide edge of the cloth, setting a hem outer point i on the long edge, setting a hem inner point j on the front trouser piece, ji being vertical to the long edge, hi and gj being the folding trouser edge of the front trouser piece and connecting jb, setting a k point as a crotch point, a k1 point as a tightening trouser leg point, a k1 point as the middle point of a line segment jb, setting kk1 to be vertical to the line segment jb, connecting b, k1, j and g to form a trouser pipeline, cutting double-layer cloth along the line, and cutting a layer of cloth along the front crotch part;
(1.4) drawing the front piece pleat: before unfolding, drawing a pleat on the waist of the trousers piece, setting a pleat 1 and a pleat 2, setting the width of the pleat 1= hip circumference/4-waistline/4-2.5 cm, the width of the pleat 2 = hip circumference/4-waistline/4-3.0 cm, setting a woolen trouser length point w as an endpoint which corresponds to the point a in doubling and is not cut, and setting the distance between one endpoint of a pocket line and the woolen trouser length point w and the length of the pocket line to determine the intersection point of the pocket line and a long edge or a trouser leg line.
Preferably, hi = gj, and hi and gj are 3.5 to 4.0cm in length. Wherein, the thin material can be selected to be 3.5 cm, and the thick material can be selected to be 4.0cm.
Preferably, in the step (2), the rear piece of trousers is cut, and the method comprises the following steps:
(2.1) drawing a back large crotch: by means of front trouser piece stack cutting, setting a rear waistline large point n, wherein wn is rear piece waistline large, wn = waistline/4.0 cm, setting a rear warping point n1, n1n is perpendicular to a wide side, n1n = (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2, setting a rear hip circumference base point m point to be one third of a line segment fc adjacent to a point c, m is a rear hip circumference base point, mm1 is parallel to the wide side, mm1 is the difference number of the rear trouser piece hip circumference stack cutting on the front trouser piece, a connecting line segment n1m1 is extended to generate an intersection point with a front crosspiece line and continue to extend for a certain distance to a crotch point l, wherein the distance = (hip circumference/20)/2, an angle line segment l is led out upwards at the crotch point l, an o point is a rear crotch lo high point, the crotch line segment is parallel to the wide side, the crotch = hip circumference/10 cm, setting a point o1 to be at the crotch point 1 and be connected with the crotch point l, dividing the crotch point to form a three-fold line, and dividing the crotch point l into a curved line and a crotch point m and a crotch point;
(2.2) drawing a crotch suture line: setting a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding edge outer point p and a rear folding edge inner point q by means of a front trouser piece, rp and sq are used for widening a rear trouser opening, rp = sq = the trouser opening/2 + 2.0-folded wool-like front trouser opening cm, the folded wool-like front trouser opening = 1/2-gh of the wide edge of the cloth, pq and rs are used for folding edges and are equal to the length of the folded trouser edge of the front trouser piece, a rear crotch point t is positioned at the upper third of a line segment oq and is close to a point o, tt1 is a tightening amount, tt1= half hip circumference/20-0.5, tt1 is perpendicular to oq, and the points o, t1 and q are connected to form a rear trouser piece crotch sewing line for cutting the rear trouser piece;
(2.3) the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folded edge, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser opening, the waist line of the rear trouser piece is wn1, and the outer side line of the rear trouser piece is the same as that of the front trouser piece;
(2.4) setting a dart at the back waist opening, wherein the dart is positioned at the center of the back waist opening (the central line of the triangle is vertical to the waist opening line), and drawing the dart into a triangle.
Preferably, said mm1= hip circumference/20-4.5 cm.
Preferably, the dart is 10-2.0cm long and 10-0.2cm wide.
Preferably, the pp1= (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2 cm.
Preferably, in step (3), the bottom barrier and the knee girth are cut into silk depending on the front and rear trousers pieces, comprising:
(3.1) cutting the knee leg surrounding silk, which is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers piece by a certain distance;
(3.2) cutting the bottom blocking cloth, setting the distance from the point 1 to the point n1 and the distance from the point o to the point 2, and connecting the point 1 and the point 2 by adopting a curve;
(3.3) knee lining is manufactured at the bottom edge, ironed and buckled for a distance and the raised edge is sewn at the position corresponding to the trouser opening, no seam is leaked at the front side of the trousers, the knee lining is set to be attached to the front trousers piece, and other three edges except the waist line are overlooked by overlocking stitches;
(3.4) buckling and reversing the bottom blocking cloth at the radian for ironing, setting the bottom blocking cloth to be attached to the crotch of the rear trouser piece, sewing by using a raised edge, preventing stitches from leaking on the front side of the trousers, overlocking the rear trouser piece and the bottom blocking cloth, and overlocking the other three edges except the waist line;
(3.5) adopting a binding process for the crotch back camber, setting the binding width, and matching the length with the crotch back length;
(3.6) cutting the bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk by using the down yarns, wherein the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by using the weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by using the oblique yarns, and the pre-shrinking treatment is carried out before the down yarns are cut.
Preferably, the distance n1 from the bottom 1 point is 15 cm, and the distance o from the bottom 2 point is 15 cm.
Preferably, the ironing process parameters are as follows: the pressure is 30-98 kpa, the temperature is 160 ℃, and the time is 10s.
The trousers cutting, ironing and pressing manufacturing method solves the problem of low individual fitness of the manufacturing process and has the following advantages:
the invention adopts a trousers cutting, pressing and ironing manufacturing technology, and the method has the characteristics of flexible cutting, simple method, high cutting efficiency, clear ironing skill, suitability for individual body type, strong size and the like;
(1) The method of the invention adopts a cloth folding mode to cut the front trousers pieces, stacks the cut trousers pieces on the basis of the cut front trousers pieces, the cutting structural diagrams are drawn by hairline, the bottom blocking cloth and the knee wrap silk are cut on the cut front trousers pieces and the cut rear trousers pieces in a copying way, and are fixed on the trousers pieces by utilizing a selvage raising needle method and a binding process to form a protective layer, and the front trousers pieces and the rear trousers pieces are manually pulled out and ironed to process the three-dimensional shapes of the trousers pieces, so that the trousers are more in line with the personalized body shape;
(2) The method of the invention can better solve the three-dimensional modeling of the trousers, can meet the wearing requirements of different body types, has lower production cost, and has artistic effect and aesthetic feeling;
(3) The method of the invention adopts a folding method to cut the front trousers pieces quickly, the back trousers pieces are cut by the aid of the front trousers pieces in a stacking manner, drawing and cutting efficiency is greatly improved, and the trousers pieces are ironed by adopting a manual ironing technology to realize three-dimensional drawing and ironing, so that the height of the trousers pieces to the body is improved, and the trousers pieces have the characteristics of easy operation, cutting, ironing treatment, low manufacturing cost and the like.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view of a rectangular structure of the cloth of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a schematic view of the folding of the inventive fabric.
Figure 3 is a schematic illustration of a small crotch drawing of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a drawing of the first side seam and the top seam of the pants of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a second drawing of the leg openings and the side seams of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a schematic side seam cut of a front panel of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of the present invention for cutting a fly.
Fig. 8 is a schematic drawing of a pleat of the present invention.
FIG. 9 is a drawing of a back panel of the present invention.
Figure 10 is a schematic view of the present invention for cutting a knee girth.
Fig. 11 is a schematic diagram of the bottom cloth of the present invention.
Fig. 12 is a schematic view of a bottom edge trimming and ironing process of the knee welt silk.
Figure 13 is a schematic view of the bottom edge curling of the knee wrap of the present invention.
FIG. 14 is a schematic view of the overlocking process of knee cuffs and trousers pieces according to the present invention.
FIG. 15 is a schematic diagram of the cutting and ironing of the back panel bottom flap of the present invention.
FIG. 16 is a schematic view of the back panel, bottom gusset overlock and back crotch piping stitching of the present invention.
FIG. 17 is a first schematic drawing of ironing a front piece of pants according to the present invention.
FIG. 18 is a second drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the front pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 19 is a drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the rear pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 20 is a second drawing and ironing schematic diagram of the rear piece of pants of the present invention.
FIG. 21 is a schematic perspective view of front and back panels of the present invention.
FIG. 22 is a schematic view of a rear panel crotch binding process of the present invention.
And (3) labeling: a trouser length point a; a small crotch point b; a rise point c; a front fly point d; a rise point f; the outer starting point h of the length of the trousers; starting point g in the length of the trousers; folding outer points i; a hem inner point j; a crotch point k; tightening the trouser leg point k1; the back waistline is a large point n; a back warping point n1; a posterior hip circumference base point m; the posterior hip circumference maximum point m1; a crotch point l; the back crotch height point o; the outer starting point r of the rear trouser length; starting point s of the back trouser length; the outer point p of the rear folded edge; the inner point q of the rear folded edge; a rear crotch point t; a rear crotch tightening point t1; the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be described clearly and completely below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
A method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing comprises the following steps:
(1) Cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) The bottom blocking cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk by depending on the front and the rear trousers pieces;
(4) The trousers piece is pulled out and ironed, the front trousers piece is pulled out and ironed and the back trousers piece is pulled out and ironed respectively, the appearance curve of the trouser legs of the front trousers piece which is pulled out and ironed is smaller than that of the back trousers piece, and the pulling-out amount of the back trousers piece at the back crotch is larger.
The invention adopts a cloth folding mode to cut the front trousers pieces, stacks the cut back trousers pieces on the basis of the cut front trousers pieces, draws the cutting structure chart by the hairline seams, imitates the cutting on the cut front and back trousers pieces by the bottom cloth and the knee wrap silk, and fixes the bottom cloth and the knee wrap silk on the trousers pieces by utilizing the edge raising needle method and the overlock process to form a protective layer. The three-dimensional shape of the front and rear trousers pieces is processed by manual drawing and ironing, so that the trousers are more in line with the personalized body shape, and the above technologies are implemented in the cutting of the woollen materials. The invention improves the cutting efficiency by folding and stacking cutting methods of the front and the back trouser pieces, and the heat treatment of the trouser pieces by manual drawing ironing is beneficial to the individualized manufacture of high-grade woolen materials.
(1) Front piece tailoring process
As shown in figures 1-8, the drawing tailoring process (taking 170/76A as an example) of the front trousers of the invention is as follows:
the sizes of all parts of the trousers are set, taking the 170/76A type as an example, the length of the trousers =103 cm, the hip circumference =100 cm, the waist circumference =78 cm and the mouth of the trousers =22 cm, the ranges of the sizes of different men's trousers are 160/68A, 165/72A, 170/76A, 175/80A and 180/84A, and the size difference of two adjacent sizes of the men's trousers is as follows: the trousers have the length difference =3 cm, the hip circumference difference =4.0 cm, the waist circumference difference =4.0 cm and the trouser opening difference =1.0 cm, and are used for cutting trousers with different sizes.
The length and the width of the cloth are set, as shown in fig. 1, the long edge of the cloth cover is 104 cm (calculation method: long edge = trouser length size-4.0 + 1.0), the wide edge is 31 cm (wide edge = hip circumference/4 +4.0+ 2.0), the cloth is folded, the wide edge of the cloth is folded to form a double layer, the front side of the cloth is inside, and the back side of the cloth is outside, as shown in fig. 2.
As shown in figure 3, a trouser length point a (which is an end point of a long side), a small crotch point b, a crotch point c (cb is vertical to the long side), a front opening point d (cd is parallel to the long side), a crotch ab =27 cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4 + 1.0), a small crotch height cb =4.0 cm (calculation method: half hip circumference/10-1.0), a crotch bending length cd =6.5 cm (calculation method: half hip circumference/10 + 2.5), a crotch is drawn, cb is vertical to cd and bcd to form a right-angle triangle, ce is vertical to a hypotenuse bd, the ce length is trisected, and a point one third point close to the e point on ce, a small crotch point b and a front opening point d are connected by an arc line to form a small crotch radian.
As shown in fig. 4, extending cd, crossing the wide side at point f, setting point f as the rise point, setting the outer starting point h (the other end of the long side), the inner starting point g (on the wide side), the outer folding point i (on the long side), and the inner folding point j (ji perpendicular to the long side); wherein, the starting point g of the inner part of the trouser length is used for determining the size of the trouser mouth and is h 4.5cm away from the starting point h of the outer part of the trouser length (the calculation method is 1/2-trouser mouth/2 of the wide edge of the cloth); the outer folding point i and the inner folding point j are used for folding the edge of the trousers, and hi =4.0 cm and ij =4.5 cm are set (the calculation method of the starting point g in the length of the trousers); setting a point k as a crotch point, a point k1 as a trouser leg tightening point, setting the point k1 at the center of a line segment jb, setting the point kk1 to be vertical to the line segment jb, setting the value range of the point kk1 to be 1.0-2.0 cm, using the line to shape different trouser legs, connecting b, k1, j and g by an arc line to form a trouser leg line, and cutting the line, as shown in figures 5 and 6.
The front crotch portion is cut by cutting a layer of cloth from an arc line consisting of a point f, a lower one-third point of a line ce, and d and b, as shown in fig. 7.
The front pants-piece gather setting, unfolding the front pants-piece gather drawing at the waist, as shown in fig. 8, set the gather 1 and the gather 2, the gather 1 width is 3.0cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4-waist circumference/4-2.5), the gather 2 width is 2.5cm (calculation method: hip circumference/4-waist circumference/4-3.0), the pocket line end point is 4.0cm from the wool pants length point w (i.e., the end point of the long side not cut, corresponding to point a when folding), the length is 22 cm.
(2) Process for cutting back piece of trousers
As shown in fig. 9, the rear pants piece is formed by cutting the front pants piece in a stacked manner, and a rear waist line large point n, a rear warping point n1, a rear hip line base point m, a rear hip line large point m1, a crotch point l, a rear crotch high point o, a rear pants length outer starting point r, a rear pants length inner starting point s, a rear hem outer point p, a rear hem inner point q, a rear crotch point t, a rear crotch tightening point t1, and a rear pants mouth outer oblique point p1 are set for drawing and cutting the rear pants piece.
Let wn be 23.5 cm (calculation: waist/4 + 4.0) for the back waist, and nn1 be 1.5 cm (calculation (hip/20-2.0)/2) for the back warp. Setting a third position (the lower third position of the front trouser piece standing crotch) of the m point of the back hip circumference base point, which is close to the c point, on the line segment fc, and setting the mm1 as the difference of the back trouser piece hip circumference stacked on the front trouser piece, which is 0.5cm, so as to adjust the inclination of the back crotch line.
The connecting line segment n1m1 is extended to form an intersection point with the front crosspiece line, and is extended to the crotch point l by a certain distance of 2.5cm (calculated by (hip circumference/20)/2). The lo line segment is set to be drawn upward at the crotch point l, and lo is parallel to the wide side, lo =10 cm (calculation method: hip circumference/10). Setting the point o1 to be in the middle point of the line segment om1 and connecting the point o with the crotch point l to form a crotch line lo1, dividing the crotch line lo1 into three equal parts, taking one third of the point close to the crotch point l as a crotch bending tangent point, and connecting the point m1, the crotch bending tangent point and the point o to form a rear large crotch radian for cutting the rear large crotch.
And setting a rear trouser opening to be drawn and cut based on the front trouser opening, setting rp and sq to widen the rear trouser opening, wherein the value is rp = sq =4.0 cm (the calculation method is that the trouser opening/2 + 4.0-the folded fur-like front trouser opening and the folded fur-like front trouser opening = 1/2-gh =11cm of the wide edge of the cloth). Pq and rs are set for folding, and the value is the same as the folding trouser edge of the front trouser piece, and pq = rs =4.0.
The rear crotch point t is positioned at one third of the line segment oq close to the point o, tt1 is the tightening amount, tt1 is perpendicular to oq, the value of tt1 is 2.0cm (the calculation method is that half hip circumference/20-0.5), and the point o, the point t1 and the point q are connected to form a rear trouser piece crotch sewing line for cutting the rear trouser piece.
The outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser leg opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folded edge, and pp1=1.5 cm is set for obliquely cutting the rear trouser leg opening. The waist line of the back piece is connected wn1, and the outer side line of the back piece is the same as that of the front piece. A dart road is set at the back waist opening, the dart road is positioned at the center of the back waist opening, the length of the dart road is 8.5 cm, the width of the dart road is 2.0cm, and the dart road is drawn into a triangle.
(3) Cutting process of bottom blocking cloth and knee surrounding silk
As shown in figure 10, the knee girth fabric is cut, and is cut according to the front trouser piece, and is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trouser piece by 15 cm.
As shown in figure 11, the bottom blocking cloth is cut, and compared with the crotch of the back trousers piece, the distance n1 between the point 1 of the bottom and the point 2 of the point o is set to be 15 cm, and the point 2 of the bottom 1 is set to be connected by a curve. Specifically, a line segment is used for connecting the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 point, a vertical line of the bottom 1 line segment and the bottom 2 line segment is made at 1/2 of the bottom 1 line segment and the bottom 2 line segment, the length of the vertical line is 11cm, and the curvature is drawn by connecting the 11cm point, the bottom 1 point and the bottom 2 point.
As shown in figures 12 and 13, the knee cap silk is made at the bottom edge of the trousers, is ironed and buckled for 1.0cm, is hemmed and sewn at the position corresponding to the opening of the trousers, and is preferably free from the stitches on the front side of the trousers. The leg band silk was set to fit the front piece of pants, and as shown in fig. 14, the other three sides except the waist line were welt-stitched by overlock stitching.
As shown in figure 15, the bottom blocking cloth is ironed by being buckled down by 1.0cm at the radian, the bottom blocking cloth is set to be attached to the crotch part of the rear trousers pieces, the raised edges are adopted for sewing, and the front side of the trousers is preferably free from stitches. As shown in figure 16, the back piece and the bottom piece are overlooked, and the other three edges except the waist line are overlooked.
As shown in fig. 22, the crotch back camber is performed by a binding process using a binder to bind, setting the binding width to 3.0cm, folding the binding in half along the length, folding the two sides of the binding back by 0.7 cm, holding the crotch of the back pants, binding the binding with a bias thread cutting down feather material, setting the binding width to 0.8 cm, and matching the length with the crotch back length.
The bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk are both cut by adopting the feather yarns, the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by oblique yarns, and the feather yarns are preshrinked before being cut. Compared with beautiful silk, the cost of the down-feather is easy to reduce, the down-feather warp is made of artificial silk (filament fiber) thick yarn, the weft is made of cotton fiber thin yarn, the surface of the material is smooth, stiff, smooth and flat, the shrinkage is small, and the fabric is easy to be attached.
(4) Trousers piece ironing process
As shown in fig. 17, the front trousers piece is pulled out and ironed, the front trousers piece is pulled in the front part and the side hip circumference, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the iron trend is S line, and the pulling out and ironing is carried out on the two sides of the line of the pressing line. Ironing process parameters are as follows: a pressure of 30-98 kpa (0.3 kgf/cm) 2 ～1kgf/cm 2 ) Temperature 160 ℃ and time 10s.
As shown in fig. 18 and 21, the front trousers piece is pulled back and forth to enable the inner and outer side seams of the trousers piece to be approximately straight lines, the front trousers piece is folded along the seam line and the front piece curvature seam line is ironed, the front belly part of the curvature seam line after ironing is convex, the knee is concave, and the outer side seam is straight.
As shown in fig. 19-21, the rear pants piece is pulled back and forth to make the inside and outside seams of the pants piece approximate to a straight line, the rear crotch is set to be pulled out by 10cm, the front pants piece is folded along the holding-up line and the curved holding-up line of the rear pants piece is ironed, the buttocks are convex after the curved holding-up line is ironed, the knees are concave, and the outside seams are straight.
As shown in figure 22, in the process of trimming the crotch part of the back trousers, a trimming device is adopted for trimming, the width of a trimming cloth strip is set to be 3.0cm, the trimming cloth strip is folded along the length, two sides of the cloth strip are folded back by 0.7 cm again, the crotch part of the back trousers is clamped for trimming, the trimming cloth strip adopts a feather yarn material for oblique thread cutting, and the length is matched with the length of the back crotch.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (8)
1. A method for making trousers by cutting, ironing and pressing is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:
(1) Cutting the front trouser piece, cutting the inner and outer side seams of the trouser legs in a cloth folding mode in a woolen shape, and cutting the trouser legs by opening the small crotch;
(2) Cutting the rear trousers pieces by a front trousers piece stacking cutting method;
(3) The bottom barrier cloth and the knee circumference are cut into silk depending on the front and the back trousers pieces, and are fixed on the front trousers piece and the back trousers piece by adopting a raised edge stitch method and an overlock process to form a protective layer;
(4) The front trouser piece and the back trouser piece are pulled and ironed;
wherein, the front trouser pieces are ironed by pulling: the front opening of the trousers and the hip circumference of the side edges are retracted, the knees of the trousers are pulled out from inside to outside, the trend of an iron is S-line, the retraction ironing is carried out on the two sides of the straightening line, the front trousers are folded along the straightening line and the curvature straightening line of the front trousers is ironed; pulling and ironing the rear trousers piece: setting the elongation of the pulled-out length of the rear crotch part to be 8.0-10 cm, setting the trend of a rear piece iron to be an S line, performing pull-out ironing on two sides of a straightening line, folding the trousers piece along the straightening line and ironing the curvature of the rear trousers piece;
in the step (1), the front trousers piece is cut, and the method comprises the following steps:
(1.1) determining the length of trousers, the hip circumference, the waist circumference and the size of the opening of trousers, selecting cloth, wherein the long edge of the cloth is =4.0 cm +1.0cm from the length of trousers, and the wide edge of the cloth is =4.0 cm +4.0cm from the width of buttocks, and the wide edge of the doubled cloth is doubled;
(1.2) drawing the front crotch part: one end point of a long edge of the cloth is taken as a trouser length point a, a small crotch point b, ab = hip circumference/4 +1.0cm, a crotch standing point c and a front opening point d are set on the long edge, cb is perpendicular to the long edge, cb = half hip circumference/10-1.0cm, cd is parallel to ba, cd = half hip circumference/10 +2.5cm, bd is connected, a perpendicular line is intersected at the point e from the point c to the point bd, the ce length is divided into three equal parts, one third point on the crotch, which is close to the point e, is connected with the small crotch point b and the front opening point d through an arc line to form the small crotch, the radian of cd is prolonged to be intersected at the point f, the point f is taken as a crotch straightening point, and a connecting point f, a point of three third of a line segment, d and b form a front arc line;
(1.3) drawing a trouser pipeline: setting the other end point of the long edge of the cloth as a trouser length outer starting point h, setting a trouser length inner starting point g on the wide edge, wherein gh = 1/2-trouser opening/2 cm of the wide edge of the cloth, setting a hem outer point i on the long edge, setting a hem inner point j on the front trouser piece, wherein ji is vertical to the long edge, hi and gj are the folding trouser edges of the front trouser piece and are connected with jb, setting a k point as a crotch point, a k1 point as a trouser pipe tightening point, a k1 point as the middle point of a line segment jb, setting a kk1 vertical to the line segment jb, connecting b, k1, j and g by an arc line to form a trouser pipeline, cutting double-layer cloth along the line, and cutting a layer of cloth along the front arc line at the crotch part;
(1.4) drawing the front trouser sheet pleat: drawing a pleat on the waist of the trousers piece before unfolding, setting a pleat 1 and a pleat 2, wherein the width of the pleat 1 is = hip circumference/4-waistline/4-2.5 cm, the width of the pleat 2 is = hip circumference/4-waistline/4-3.0 cm, a woolen-like trouser length point w is an end point which corresponds to the point a in the doubling process and is not cut, and setting the distance between one end point of a pocket line and the woolen-like trouser length point w and the length of the pocket line so as to determine the intersection point of the pocket line and the long edge or the trouser leg line;
in the step (2), cutting the rear trousers piece, comprising the following steps:
(2.1) drawing a back large crotch: setting a rear waistline large point n by cutting a front trouser sheet stack, wherein wn is the rear waist large point, wn = waistline/4.0 cm, setting a rear warping point n1, n1n is perpendicular to a wide side, n1n = (hip circumference/20-2.0 cm)/2, setting a point m of a rear hip circumference base point to be one third of a line fc adjacent to a point c, m is the rear hip circumference base point, mm1 is parallel to the wide side, mm1 is the difference number of the rear trouser sheet hip circumference stack cut on the front trouser sheet, setting a connecting line segment n1m1 and extending to generate an intersection point with the front crosspiece line and continuing to extend a certain distance to a crotch point l, the distance = (hip circumference/20)/2, a line segment is led out upwards at the crotch point l, an o point is a rear crotch point, the crotch point is parallel to the wide side, the crotch = hip circumference/10 cm, setting a point o1 to be positioned at the crotch point 1 and connected with the crotch point l, dividing the crotch point lo into three equal parts, and dividing the crotch point into a curved line, the three equal parts, wherein the crotch point l is used for forming a three equal dividing point;
(2.2) drawing a crotch suture line: setting a rear trouser length outer starting point r, a rear trouser length inner starting point s, a rear folding outer point p and a rear folding inner point q, rp and sq for widening a rear trouser opening by means of a front trouser piece, rp = sq = trouser opening/2 +2.0 cm-folded wool-like front trouser opening cm, the folded wool-like front trouser opening = 1/2-gh of the wide edge of the cloth, pq and rs are used for folding edges and are equal to the length of the front trouser piece folding trouser edge, a rear crotch point t is positioned at the upper third of a line segment oq and close to an o point, tt1 is a tightening amount, tt1= half hip circumference/20-0.5 cm, and tt1 is perpendicular to oq, and connecting o, t1 and q points to form a rear trouser piece lower crotch suture line for cutting the rear trouser piece;
(2.3) the outer oblique point p1 of the rear trouser opening is the increasing amount of the outer point p of the rear folded edge, and is used for obliquely cutting the rear trouser opening, the waist line of the rear trouser piece is wn1, and the outer side line of the rear trouser piece is the same as that of the front trouser piece;
(2.4) setting a dart at the back waist opening, wherein the dart is positioned at the center of the back waist opening and is drawn into a triangle.
2. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein hi = gj, and hi and gj are 3.5-4.0 cm in length.
3. The pant cutting, ironing and manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein mm1= hip circumference/20-4.5 cm.
4. The method for making trousers with cutting, ironing and pressing functions as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dart is 10-2.0cm long and 10-0.2cm wide.
5. Trousers cutting, ironing and pressing method according to claim 1, characterized in that pp1= (hip circumference/20-2.0)/2 cm.
6. The trousers cutting, ironing and making method according to claim 1, wherein in the step (3), the bottom barrier cloth and the knee circumference are cut by silk depending on the front and rear trousers pieces, comprising:
(3.1) cutting the knee leg surrounding silk, which is shorter than the bottom edge of the front trousers piece by a certain distance;
(3.2) cutting the bottom blocking cloth according to the crotch of the rear trousers piece, setting the distance between a point 1 and a point n1, and the distance between a point o and a point 2, wherein the point 1 and the point 2 are connected by a curve;
(3.3) knee lining is manufactured at the bottom edge, ironed and buckled for a distance and the raised edge is sewn at the position corresponding to the trouser opening, no seam is leaked at the front side of the trousers, the knee lining is set to be attached to the front trousers piece, and other three edges except the waist line are overlooked by overlocking stitches;
(3.4) buckling and reversing the bottom blocking cloth at the radian for ironing, setting the bottom blocking cloth to be attached to the crotch of the rear trouser piece, sewing by using a raised edge, preventing stitches from leaking on the front side of the trousers, overlocking the rear trouser piece and the bottom blocking cloth, and overlocking the other three edges except the waist line;
(3.5) adopting a binding process for the crotch back camber, setting the binding width, and matching the length with the crotch back length;
(3.6) cutting the bottom blocking cloth and the knee surrounding silk by using the down yarns, wherein the material of the knee surrounding silk is cut by using the weft yarns, the material of the bottom blocking cloth is cut by using the oblique yarns, and the pre-shrinking treatment is carried out before the down yarns are cut.
7. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 6, wherein the distance between the point 1 and the point n1 is 15 cm, and the distance between the point o and the point 2 is 15 cm.
8. The method for making trousers cutting, ironing and pressing according to claim 1, wherein the ironing process parameters are as follows: the pressure is 30-98 kpa, the temperature is 160 ℃, and the time is 10s.
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CH359671A (en) * | 1959-03-23 | 1962-01-31 | Gros Charles | Trouser cutting process |
| CN87215431U (en) * | 1987-11-10 | 1988-09-21 | 王卫东 | Models for measuring size of clothes, trousers and body |
| CN101485499B (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2014-03-05 | 吴厚林 | Trouser suit pattern as well as structure design skill and technique for trouser suit |
| JP5060679B2 (en) * | 2009-04-15 | 2012-10-31 | 株式会社オンワードホールディングス | Pants and methods for making pants |
| JP2012031563A (en) * | 2011-09-24 | 2012-02-16 | Caitac Corp | Garment |
| CN202750732U (en) * | 2012-07-05 | 2013-02-27 | 上海宝鸟服饰有限公司 | Suit pants with knee portion silk rough selvedges processed in hot melt mode |
| CN103859674A (en) * | 2014-03-07 | 2014-06-18 | 老合兴洋服（杭州）有限公司 | Ironing method for rear cut pieces of western-style clothes |
| CN108185556A (en) * | 2018-03-06 | 2018-06-22 | 黎明职业大学 | A kind of method of cutting out of Western-style trousers worn suitable for bulging build |
| CN109602101B (en) * | 2018-12-28 | 2020-09-04 | 西京学院 | Two-in-one cutting method for woolen trouser leg surrounding silk and pocket cloth |
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Effective date of registration: 20240522 Address after: Room 201, Building 1, No. 767 Tianshan 1st Road, Jimo District, Qingdao City, Shandong Province, 266000 Patentee after: Qingdao Aida Fashion Design Co.,Ltd. Country or region after: China Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University Country or region before: China |