CN111700828A - Oil-control repairing concealer and production process thereof - Google Patents

Oil-control repairing concealer and production process thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111700828A
CN111700828A CN202010482660.3A CN202010482660A CN111700828A CN 111700828 A CN111700828 A CN 111700828A CN 202010482660 A CN202010482660 A CN 202010482660A CN 111700828 A CN111700828 A CN 111700828A
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extract
percent
concealer
oil
skin
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CN111700828B (en
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吴依娜
陈国祥
何铣波
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Hangzhou Xinyue Cosmetic Co ltd
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Hangzhou Xinyue Cosmetic Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
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    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an oil-control repairing concealer and a production process thereof. An oil control repairing concealer comprises materials such as dimethyl silica silylate, squalane, thickening agent, petrolatum, jojoba seed oil, a first skin conditioner, a second skin conditioner and the like; wherein the first skin conditioning agent comprises a mixture of lentil seed extract and zinc PCA and the second skin conditioning agent comprises a plant extract and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The oil-control repairing concealer controls oil through the combined action of the PCA zinc and the lentil extract, repairs skin through the plant extract, and achieves the effects of controlling oil, preserving moisture and repairing.

Description

Oil-control repairing concealer and production process thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an oil-control repairing concealer; the invention also relates to a production process of the oil control repairing concealer.
Background
The concealer is a daily use cosmetic, and aims to cover up stains, spots, black spots and other flaws on the surface of human skin through colors, so that the color of the surface of the human skin is more uniform, and the purpose of beautifying the face is achieved.
The Chinese invention patent with the publication number of CN110507562A and the publication number of 2019, 11 and 29 discloses a light sensation concealing CC cream and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics, and the light sensation concealing CC cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 1-20% of inorganic powder, 5-10% of emulsifier, 0.5-3.0% of thickener, 1-3% of stabilizer, 8-17% of humectant, 15-45% of grease, 0.4-0.8% of preservative, 1-10% of skin conditioner and 25-40% of water.
In order to improve the capability of the concealer product to be attached to the epidermis of a human body, the concealer product generally contains more lipophilic substances, and in addition, the skin of the human body can secrete more grease, so that the grease is easy to deposit on the surface of the human body, and pores are blocked.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the first purpose of the invention is to provide an oil-control repairing concealer which has a strong oil-control effect, reduces the grease on the surface of the skin and reduces the grease on the surface of the human body.
The second purpose of the present invention is to provide a production process of the above oil-control repairing concealer, which can reduce the damage to the active ingredients in the oil-control repairing concealer during the production process, thereby improving the quality of the produced concealer.
The first invention purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: an oil control repairing concealer comprises the following components in parts by mass:
silica dimethyl silylate: 1 to 2 percent;
squalane: 4 to 6 percent;
thickening agent: 5 to 8 percent;
petrolatum: 25 to 30 percent;
jojoba seed oil: 0.5-1%;
first skin conditioning agent: 1.1-6%;
second skin conditioner: 2 to 7 percent;
aluminum chlorohydrate: 1 to 5 percent;
filling: 14 to 18 percent;
emulsifier: 1 to 5 percent;
antioxidant: 0.2 to 1.4 percent;
colorant: 22.2-35.4%;
preservative: 0.55 to 1 percent;
essence: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
wherein the first skin conditioner consists of a mixture of lentil seed extract and zinc PCA and the second skin conditioner comprises a plant extract and caprylic/capric triglyceride; the thickening agent is a mixture of synthetic wax and white beeswax, and the colorant is a mixture of titanium dioxide and an iron oxide colorant; the filler is composed of silica and mica.
Zinc PCA is a water-soluble skin conditioner in which zinc is an important component of various enzymes in the skin, and thus is absorbed by the skin to nourish and repair the superficial cells of the skin. The fenugreek seed extract is an excellent surfactant and has antibacterial and antioxidant effects. By matching lentil seed extract with zinc PCA, the water-soluble zinc PCA can be absorbed by cells on the surface of a human body more easily, so that the aim of quickly repairing the cells is fulfilled better. The second skin conditioner comprises plant extracts, and the skin can be repaired by the plant extracts. Because the epidermis can secrete grease to play a role in protection when the epidermal cells of the human body are damaged, the secretion of the grease of the epidermal cells of the human body is reduced after the epidermal cells of the human body are repaired by the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner, and the purpose of controlling the oil is achieved.
Petrolatum is vaseline, which acts as the base material in the concealer. Jojoba seed oil is a lubricant, has stable structure and strong antioxidant ability, and is helpful for prolonging the shelf life of cosmetics and reducing the usage amount of preservative. In addition, jojoba seed oil and squalane are similar to grease secreted by human bodies, and have high permeability. Wherein squalane can form the protection film that permeates water, breathes freely on skin surface, but because squalane itself is the alkane structure, its lock water ability is not enough, and jojoba seed oil has stronger water retention ability, mutually supports with squalane, can form the ventilative protection film of water retention to improve the comfort level and the moisturizing nature of concealer. Since in concealer the product is entirely pasty, silica and mica are required as fillers to set the product. Silica and mica, however, give a strong grainy feel when incorporated, and the use of jojoba oil and squalane as lubricants helps to reduce the grainy feel. In addition, mica and silica can also absorb oil on the surface of the skin, so that the skin is drier and more comfortable, and the oil control effect is enhanced.
The thickening agent selects the combination of synthetic wax and white beeswax, the synthetic wax is an adhesive, the viscosity of the system can be increased, the filler is bonded and is in a paste shape, and the concealer can be conveniently smeared. The white beeswax has an anti-caking effect, and after the white beeswax is doped, the system caking can be inhibited, so that the concealer is more uniform and stable. In addition, the dimethyl silicon alkylated silica has the effect of absorbing grease, has strong adsorbability on various grease substances added in a system, and can play a role of slow release, so that the jojoba seed oil, squalane and other substances can slowly permeate into the skin, and the grease secreted on the surface of the skin is absorbed, thereby further strengthening the oil control effect.
In summary, in the above technical solution, the concealer has a strong oil control capability through the combined action of the semen sojae atricolor extract and the PCA zinc, and in addition, the concealer has both oil control and concealer effects through the combined action of the jojoba seed oil and squalane. In addition, lipid substances such as jojoba seed oil and the like in the concealer are adsorbed by dimethyl silicon alkylated silica, so that the content of the lipid on the skin is reduced, and the oil control effect is further achieved.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: the components of the second skin conditioner and the mass fraction of each component in the total amount of the concealer are as follows:
sunflower seed oil: 0.3-1.1%;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: 0.05 to 0.5 percent;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: 0.05 to 0.5 percent
The fructus kochiae extract: 0.05-0.4%
The schisandra fruit extract: 0.05 to 0.4 percent;
mung bean seed extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
safflower extract: 0.1 to 0.5 percent;
gardenia extract: 0.1 to 0.5 percent;
and (3) chrysanthemum extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
plum blossom extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
caprylic/capric triglyceride: 0.6-3%;
preservative: 0.2 to 0.5 percent.
The sunflower seed oil is excellent oil, contains sterol, vitamin E, linoleic acid and other substances, can repair the skin of a human body, can be used as a base material for dissolving other plant extracts, enables the plant extracts and caprylic/capric triglyceride to be mutually dissolved better, and improves the integral uniformity of the concealer.
The fructus Arctii extract contains arctigenin, arctiin and part of organic acid, and the flos Chrysanthemi Indici extract contains Chrysanthemum alcohol, Chrysanthemum ketone, etc., and the above materials have strong oxidation resistance and can delay skin aging.
The schisandra fruit contains schizandrin, and the schizandrin has good repair capability on skin and can repair damaged cells of human epidermis so as to improve the skin quality of human. Meanwhile, the schizandrin is mild, is not easy to generate irritation, and can neutralize the irritation generated by other components.
The broom cypress fruit extract and the mung bean seed extract contain more proteins and flavonoids, have good antibacterial activity, can eliminate inflammation on the surface of skin, and have good repairing effect. The anti-oxidation substances in the burdock fruit extract and the wild chrysanthemum extract can prolong the storage time of protein, so that the concealer has the long-acting protection effect.
The safflower extract and the gardenia contain more glycosides and organic acids, the glycosides are structures of cyclic acetal formed by hemiacetal groups on sugar or sugar derivatives and hydroxyl groups of a non-sugar substance, and have strong reducibility, so that the safflower extract and the gardenia extract can absorb active substances such as generated active oxygen, free radicals and the like during ultraviolet irradiation, thereby further reducing the stimulation to the skin.
The plum blossom extract and the chrysanthemum extract contain flavonoid, essential oil and other substances, and the essential oil has a good moisturizing effect and can also provide a relatively rich fragrance. The flavonoid has the effects of resisting inflammation and bacteria, and spots and flaws on the surface of the skin usually accompany symptoms of epidermis damage, inflammation and the like, so when the concealer is coated on a wound on the surface of the skin, the skin rehabilitation can be accelerated, the stimulation to the skin is reduced, and the concealer is milder.
The plant extracts can be mixed to inhibit damage and inflammation of skin surface, and repair and lighten spots existing on skin. In addition, as more high molecular substances are often added in the concealer for improving the concealer effect, the high molecular substances can generate free radicals under the irradiation of sunlight, and glucoside substances in the plant extract can inhibit the oxidation of the skin on the surface of a human body and reduce the damage of the free radicals generated by high molecular components in cosmetics to the skin. In the numerical range of the technical scheme, the extracts have good synergistic effect, and the irritation effect of substances (such as small molecular organic acid) with irritation on the skin can be neutralized by other substances, so that the skin feel is good, and the oil control and repair effects on the skin are strong.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: the extraction method of the plant extract comprises the following steps:
sunflower seed oil: washing and drying oriented sunflower seeds, grinding and crushing, sieving with a 30-40 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether and a soxhlet extractor to obtain a petroleum ether solution of sunflower seed oil, and distilling under reduced pressure to remove the petroleum ether;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: cleaning fructus Arctii, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether at 75-85 deg.C in a Soxhlet extractor to colorless, soaking with ethanol, and ultrasonic extracting; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum distilling to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Arctii extract;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi Indici, oven drying, grinding, pulverizing, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding ethanol 5-10 times of flos Chrysanthemi Indici, heating to 50-60 deg.C, soaking under nitrogen protection for 6-10min, and extracting with ultrasound; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum removing water and ethanol to obtain flos Chrysanthemi Indici extract;
the fructus kochiae extract: cleaning Kochiae fructus, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, soaking at 40-50 deg.C for 1 hr, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at temperature not higher than 50 deg.C to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
the schisandra fruit extract: cleaning fructus Schisandrae chinensis, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding 3-6 times of ethanol, heating to 45-60 deg.C, extracting under ultrasound assistance, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, repeating for more than 3 times, and evaporating the supernatant under vacuum to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Schisandrae chinensis extract;
mung bean seed extract: cleaning and drying mung bean seeds, grinding and crushing the mung bean seeds, sieving the mung bean seeds with a 30-60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water, uniformly mixing the deionized water and the deionized water, adding a sodium carbonate solution to adjust the pH value to 6.5, soaking and extracting the mung bean seeds for 1 hour at the temperature of 40-50 ℃, centrifuging the mung bean seeds at 3000-4000r/min, taking supernatant, and removing water in the supernatant by vacuum evaporation under the condition that the temperature is not higher than 50 ℃ to obtain a broom cypress fruit extract;
safflower extract, gardenia extract: cleaning and drying part of the safflower, grinding and crushing the part in an ice-water bath, sieving the part by a 30-60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water with the mass being 20-50 times of the dry weight of the safflower, heating the mixture to 45-55 ℃ under the protection of nitrogen, carrying out ultrasonic-assisted extraction for 5-10min, centrifuging the mixture at low temperature to obtain supernatant, and removing water under vacuum to obtain a safflower extract and a gardenia extract; chrysanthemum extract, plum extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi or flos Pruni mume, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve, adding 15-20% sodium chloride solution with liquid-material ratio of (10-18):1, and soaking at room temperature under ultrasound for 20-30 min; extracting the maceration extract by steam distillation until 70% solution is evaporated, and vacuum evaporating the evaporated and condensed solution to remove water to obtain chrysanthemum essential oil and plum blossom essential oil; adding ethanol into the unevaporated material, cooling, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, vacuum evaporating to remove solvent to obtain flavonoid extract, and combining the flavonoid extract with flos Chrysanthemi essential oil and flos Pruni mume essential oil to obtain flos Chrysanthemi extract and flos Pruni mume extract.
In the technical scheme, different extraction methods are adopted for different plant extracts, and the effective components in the plant extracts are stored as much as possible.
For sunflower seeds, a Soxhlet extractor can be used for effectively extracting oil components in the sunflower seeds, materials such as vitamin E and sterol with good oil solubility can be reserved to the maximum extent, and the step is simple to operate and suitable for large-scale production.
For the burdock, the wild chrysanthemum and the schisandra fruit, the effective components are micromolecular alcohol and micromolecular acid, the structure is stable, and the extraction efficiency can be improved by adopting an ethanol leaching method for extraction and using ultrasonic for auxiliary extraction;
for the broom cypress fruit and the mung bean seeds, more protein is contained, so in order to ensure that the secondary structure, the tertiary structure and the quaternary structure of the protein are not damaged in the extraction process, the adoption of overhigh temperature is avoided as much as possible; the heating extraction at 40-50 ℃ can reduce the damage to the protein structure and improve the extraction efficiency as much as possible. The pH is adjusted to make the protein have better solubility, which is helpful for fully extracting the protein and other effective substances in the broom cypress fruit and the mung bean seed as much as possible.
The flos Carthami extract and the flos Gardeniae extract contain more easily-oxidizable materials, so that oxidation of glycosides in flos Carthami extract can be inhibited by ice water bath during grinding, and the flos Carthami extract and the flos Gardeniae extract are extracted with deionized water and heated under nitrogen protection. The glycosides in flos Carthami extract and flos Gardeniae extract can be preserved as much as possible.
In the chrysanthemum extract and the plum blossom extract, the essential oil substances can be quickly and efficiently extracted by a steam distillation method, and the residual flavonoid substances are extracted by a leaching method, so that a relatively pure extract can be obtained, the content of impurities in the extract can be reduced, and the possibility of skin allergy caused by the extract can be reduced.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
silica dimethyl silylate: 1.5 percent;
squalane: 5 percent;
thickening agent: 6.8 percent;
petrolatum: 27.5 percent;
jojoba seed oil: 1 percent;
lentil seed extract: 3 percent;
zinc PCA: 0.5 percent;
second skin conditioner: 4 percent;
aluminum chlorohydrate: 2 percent;
filling: 16 percent;
emulsifier: 2 percent;
antioxidant: 0.7 percent;
colorant: 28.8 percent;
preservative: 1 percent;
essence: 0.2 percent;
wherein the thickening agent consists of 3.8 percent of white beeswax and 3 percent of synthetic wax which account for 3.8 percent of the total concealer material, the emulsifying agent is lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, and the coloring agent consists of 25 percent of titanium dioxide, 1.4 percent of iron oxide red, 2.1 percent of iron oxide yellow and 0.3 percent of iron oxide black which account for the total concealer material; the antioxidant consists of tocopherol acetate accounting for 0.2 percent of the total material of the concealer and 0.5 percent of diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate; the filler consists of silica and 10% mica, 6% of the total mass of concealer.
In the technical scheme, the using amounts of the materials are tested and set, wherein titanium dioxide, iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow and iron oxide black are selected as coloring agents, coloring is natural, and the materials in the mixture ratio are found to have the following effects in the test: i.e. the color becomes darker under the ultraviolet irradiation, and the primary color is recovered after the irradiation is stopped for a period of time. The color changing process can prevent the skin of human from whitening and causing unnatural appearance under outdoor strong light irradiation.
In addition, the component proportion of squalane, synthetic wax, petrolatum and the filler in the technical scheme can be set, so that all materials can be uniformly dissolved, and strong granular feeling is not easy to generate. On the basis, if the content of the petrolatum is increased, the concealer is greasy and thick, and the oil control repairing effect is not realized easily; conversely, if the petrolatum content is reduced, there is a stronger graininess and it is not favorable for the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner to be evenly distributed in the concealer.
The first invention purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a process for the production of an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claims 1 to 4, comprising the steps of:
s1: mixing silica dimethyl silylate and squalane, and stirring at 20 + -5 deg.C for 15-25min to obtain a first mixed phase;
s2: mixing a thickening agent, petrolatum and jojoba seed oil, heating to 80-95 ℃, melting, cooling to 60-65 ℃ while keeping stirring, and adding the first mixed phase obtained in the step 1 to obtain a second mixed phase;
s3: adding an antioxidant, aluminum chlorohydrol, a filler and a preservative into the second mixed phase obtained in the step S2 at 60-65 ℃, and stirring for 5-8min to obtain a third mixed phase;
s4: adding 2 colorants into the third mixed phase obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing for 4-7min to obtain a colored mixed phase;
s5: cooling the colored mixed phase obtained in the step S4 to 35-40 ℃ under the condition of keeping stirring to obtain a cooled colored mixed phase, sampling the cooled colored mixed phase, comparing the sampled colored mixed phase with the color of a standard sample, if the color of the colored mixed phase is not consistent with the color of the standard sample, heating the cooled colored mixed phase to 60-65 ℃, and repeating the steps S4 and S5 until the color of the sampled colored mixed phase is consistent with the color of the standard sample;
s6: adding lentil seed extract and zinc PCA into emulsifier at 20 + -5 deg.C, stirring for 2-5min, and mixing to obtain first skin conditioner;
s7: adding the plant extract into caprylic/capric triglyceride at 20 + -5 deg.C, introducing nanometer microbubbles, and treating with ultrasound for 5-10min to mix well for 4-7min to obtain a second skin conditioner;
s8: adding the first skin conditioner obtained in the step S6 and the second skin conditioner obtained in the step S7 into the cooled coloring mixed phase obtained in the step S5, stirring for 6-15min under vacuum, gradually cooling to room temperature, and extruding to obtain a finished product;
wherein the stirring speed in the steps S1 and S2 is 800-1200rpm, and the stirring speed in the step S3 is 1000-1350 rpm; the stirring speed in the steps S4, S5 and S8 is 2000-2100 rpm; the stirring speed in step S6 is 600-800 rpm. Wherein the stirring speed in the steps S1 and S2 is 800-1200rpm, and the stirring speed in the step S3 is 1000-1350 rpm; the stirring speed in the steps S4, S5 and S8 is 2000-2100 rpm; the stirring speed in step S6 is 600-800 rpm.
In the technical scheme, the dimethyl silyl silica and the squalane are mixed to form a first mixed phase in the step S1 and the step S2, then the thickening agent, the petrolatum and the jojoba seed oil are mixed to form a second mixed phase, and the first mixed phase has good material fluidity, so that the mixture can be stirred at the temperature of 20 +/-5 ℃. In step S2, there is a temperature reduction process after the stirring, which aims to separate out the dissolved gas in the system by cooling, so as to avoid the subsequent generation of more bubbles.
In step S3, materials such as antioxidants and fillers are added, and after sufficiently stirring, the colorant is added in step S4, thereby coloring the concealer. Because silica and mica in the filler have better adsorption effect, the colorant is added after materials such as the filler are fully and uniformly mixed, the colorant is more uniformly dispersed in the produced concealer, and the uniformity of the concealer are further improved. In step S5, the temperature of the mixed coloring phase obtained in step S4 is continuously lowered, and the gas in the mixed coloring phase is exhausted, so that the color of the mixed coloring phase is more uniform.
Steps S6 and S7 configure the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner, respectively. In this process, the second skin conditioner contains many small particles because the main ingredient is a plant extract. After the nanometer microbubble is let in, the tiny particle can be along with the nanometer microbubble come-up, breaks under the ultrasonic action until the nanometer microbubble, and above-mentioned process can be with subsiding in the tiny particle dispersion of system bottom to whole system in, forms even emulsification structure, makes the overall state of second skin conditioner even more stable. If the stirring is directly used, a part of the poorly soluble substances in the plant extract is likely to settle in the system, which is disadvantageous to the uniformity of the system.
In step S8, after the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are added into the cooled coloring mixed phase, they are stirred under vacuum, so as to prevent the plant extract in the second skin conditioner from being oxidized by oxygen in the air under the condition of high temperature, and to defoam the skin, so that the concealer is not easy to generate bubbles, and is more uniform. The first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are added in the last step, so that the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are protected from being easily deteriorated in the processing process, and the oil control and repair effects of the concealer are further improved.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: in the step S8, the system is subjected to defoaming treatment by ultrasonic waves while stirring, the frequency of the ultrasonic waves being not less than 40 kHz.
In above-mentioned technical scheme, the ultrasonic wave through more than 40kHz carries out defoaming treatment to the concealer that obtains in S8, helps accelerating the process of spilling over of the inside bubble of concealer shaping back, makes concealer more even, promotes the accuse oily effect of concealer.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: in step S8, the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are uniformly and slowly added into the cooled colored mixed phase obtained in step S5 within 3-6 minutes, and stirring and ultrasonic dispersion are kept all the time in the process.
In the technical scheme, the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are added into the cooled coloring mixed phase while being stirred, and bubbles, micelle structures or coating structures generated in the adding process can be directly broken under the action of ultrasound, so that the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are not easy to agglomerate or form stable micelles in the cooled coloring mixed phase, and the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are favorably and uniformly dispersed in the cooled coloring mixed phase.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: in step S7, nitrogen is selected as the gas in the nano-micro bubbles.
In the technical scheme, nitrogen is inert gas, so when the second skin conditioner is uniformly mixed through the nanometer microbubbles, reducing substances in the second skin conditioner are not easy to oxidize, and the oil control and repair effects of the second skin conditioner and the concealer after the second skin conditioner is added on the skin are further improved.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: in step S5, the cooling rate is 8-10 deg.C/min.
When the temperature is decreased at the above-described temperature decrease rate in step S5, bubbles are gradually precipitated from the colored mixed phase. If the cooling rate is too high, the speed of bubble precipitation is too high, and uneven coloring is easily caused; if the cooling rate is too slow, on one hand, the bubble precipitation efficiency is low, so that the processing time is prolonged, and on the other hand, titanium dioxide may agglomerate in the system, so that the prepared concealer has stronger granular feeling, and the use experience of the concealer is influenced.
The present invention in a preferred example may be further configured to: in step S8, the cooling rate is 10-15 deg.C/min.
In the technical scheme, the whole system is uniformly mixed, so that the temperature can be reduced at a higher speed. In addition, the amount of the bubbles remained in the system is small in the process, and the generated bubbles are very easy to float and break even if the temperature reduction speed is high with the assistance of vacuum defoaming, so that the influence of the temperature reduction speed on the whole uniformity is small. And the rapid cooling is helpful for protecting the plant extract in the second skin conditioner, so that the repairing and oil control functions of the concealer are maintained as much as possible.
In summary, the invention includes at least one of the following beneficial technical effects:
1. according to the formula of the oil control repairing concealer, the dual oil control effect is formed by the PCA zinc and the lentil seed extract, so that epidermal cells are moistened and repaired by the PCA zinc on one hand, and the skin is promoted to absorb the PCA zinc by the lentil seed extract on the other hand, so that the oil secretion of the skin of a human body is inhibited; in addition, the plant extract in the second skin conditioner is used for nursing the skin, and the plant extract and the skin care agent act together to achieve the purpose of controlling oil. In addition, through the compounding of petrolatum, jojoba seed oil, squalane and other thickeners, mica and silica are added to form a protective layer on the surface of human skin, and grease generated by silica and mica adsorption is used to reduce greasy feeling and heavy feeling of the skin. In addition, lipophilic substances in the system can be adsorbed and slowly released through the dimethyl silicon alkylated silica, and oil secreted on the surface of the skin is adsorbed, so that the oil control capability of the concealer is further enhanced.
2. In the invention, the plant extracts comprise sunflower seed oil, burdock extract, broom cypress fruit extract, wild chrysanthemum extract, Chinese magnoliavine fruit extract, mung bean seed extract, safflower extract, gardenia extract, chrysanthemum extract and plum blossom extract, and are dissolved in caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the plant extracts can interact with each other and complement each other, so that the effects of reducing skin oxidation, reducing the oil content on the surface of the skin and repairing the surface damage of the skin are achieved.
3. In the production process of the oil-control repairing concealer, all the components are distributed and mixed, and the nanometer microbubbles and the ultrasound are jointly processed in the process of preparing the second skin conditioner, so that the components can be protected from being damaged or deteriorated in the processing process as far as possible.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail below.
In each of the following examples and comparative examples, the following experimental tests were carried out on each sample:
experiment 1, determination of skin oil control repair performance: selecting neutral skin volunteers, cleaning the face of the volunteers until the oil absorbing paper is not changed within 20 seconds after the oil absorbing paper is attached to the face of the volunteers, and selecting 1cm between two eyebrows above the nose bridge of the volunteers2The area in which the concealer to be tested was applied and the volunteers were placed in a well ventilated room at 20 ℃. After four hours, attaching the oil absorption paper to the spot covering paste, keeping the attaching state for 30 seconds, taking down the oil absorption paper, and observing whether the oil absorption paper has a transparent area. If no transparent area exists, the oil absorption paper is attached to the spot covering part again, the attaching state is kept for 30 seconds, and the paper is taken down again for observation. Repeating the steps until the cumulative attaching time of the oil absorption paper on the face reaches 2 minutes.
Experiment 2, skin repair ability experiment: a number of volunteers were randomly selected in groups of ten volunteers in each group, five male volunteers and five female volunteers. The volunteers applied 2g of the concealer to be tested to the cheeks ten am daily and removed the concealer eight pm with a commercially available three-in-one makeup remover for the lips, face and face. After three weeks, the skin viscoelasticity of the place where the concealer was applied to the cheek and the cheek viscoelasticity of the place where the concealer was applied to the cheek were measured three times using a Cutomer MPA 580 skin viscoelasticity measuring instrument manufactured by Courage Khazaka (CK) of Germany, and the change rates of the skin viscoelasticity on both sides were calculated and averaged.
Experiment 3, skin feel scoring assay: for the volunteers in experiment 1 and experiment 2, after using the corresponding concealer, the following parameters of the concealer were scored:
grading the freshness: 1-10 points, the more refreshing the score, the less greasy the score.
Grading moistening feeling: 1-10 points, the stronger the moist feeling, the higher the dry feeling, the lower the score.
Grading the fineness: 1-10 points, the less the granular sensation, the stronger the fineness, the higher the score, the more the granular sensation, the worse the fineness, and the lower the score.
Experiment 4, irritation experiment: a number of volunteers were randomly selected in groups of ten volunteers in each group, five male volunteers and five female volunteers. The volunteers applied water and 10% lactic acid to the left and right cheeks, respectively, and the stabbing sensations of the volunteers were recorded on a four-level method (no pain: 0 level; mild: 1 level; moderate: 2 level; severe: 3 level). Subsequently, the volunteers coated 2g of the concealer to be tested on both cheeks in the morning daily two weeks. After one week, two more cheek applications of water and 10% lactic acid were performed, and the volunteers were recorded for tingling by four-stage method, followed by comparison of difference in tingling between two times.
Experiment 5, color experiment: and (3) spreading 10g of concealer to be detected in a color disc, shielding part of the concealer, irradiating for 20s by using ultraviolet light, stopping irradiation, opening the shielding, and observing whether the shielding position has color difference with other positions. Then the room is kept still for 5min, and whether color difference exists between the shielding part and other positions or not is observed again.
Experiment 6, uniformity of the processing procedure experiment: and in the processing process, observing whether the stirring in each step is uneven, layered, agglomerated and the like, and recording.
In the above experiment, the value increased to a positive value and the value decreased to a negative value.
Example 1: an oil-control repairing concealer is prepared by the following steps:
s1: mixing silica dimethyl silylate and squalane, and stirring at 20 + -5 deg.C for 25min to obtain a first mixed phase;
s2: mixing a thickening agent, petrolatum and jojoba seed oil, heating to 95 ℃, melting, cooling to 60 ℃ while keeping stirring, and adding the first mixed phase obtained in the step 1 to obtain a second mixed phase;
s3: adding an antioxidant, aluminum chlorohydrol, a filler and a preservative into the second mixed phase obtained in the step S2 at 60 ℃, and fully stirring for 5min to obtain a third mixed phase;
s4: adding a colorant into the third mixed phase obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing for 7min to obtain a colored mixed phase;
s5: cooling the colored mixed phase obtained in the step S4 to 35 ℃ under the stirring state to obtain a cooled colored mixed phase, sampling the cooled colored mixed phase, comparing the sampled colored mixed phase with the color of a standard sample, if the color of the colored mixed phase is not consistent with the color of the standard sample, heating the cooled colored mixed phase to 60 ℃, and repeating the steps S4 and S5 until the color of the sampled colored mixed phase is consistent with the color of the standard sample;
s6: adding lentil seed extract and zinc PCA into emulsifier at 20 + -5 deg.C, stirring for 2min to obtain first skin conditioner;
s7: adding the plant extract into caprylic/capric triglyceride at 20 + -5 deg.C, introducing nitrogen nanometer microbubbles, and treating with ultrasound for 5min to obtain a second skin conditioner;
s8: under a vacuum state, and with the assistance of 40kHz ultrasonic dispersion, uniformly and slowly adding the first skin conditioner obtained in the step S6 and the second skin conditioner obtained in the step S7 into the cooled coloring mixed phase obtained in the step S5 within 3 minutes, then stirring for 15min, gradually cooling to room temperature, and extruding to obtain a finished product;
wherein, the thickening agent comprises synthetic wax and white beeswax, and the colorant comprises titanium dioxide, iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow and iron oxide black; the emulsifier is lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane; the antioxidant is diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate and tocopheryl acetate; the preservative is phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol with the mass ratio of 9:1, and the adding amount of each material is shown in table 1.
In steps S1 and S2, the stirring speed was 800rpm, in step S3 the stirring speed was 1000rpm, in steps S4, S5 and S8 the stirring speed was 2000rpm, and in step S6 the stirring speed was 800 rpm. In steps S2 and S5, the cooling rate is 8 ℃/min; in step S8, the cooling rate is 15 ℃/min.
The plant extracts include 0.6kg of sunflower seed oil, 0.2kg of burdock fruit extract, 0.2kg of wild chrysanthemum flower extract, 0.2kg of broom cypress fruit extract, 0.1kg of schisandra fruit extract, 0.2kg of mung bean seed extract, 0.35kg of safflower flower extract, 0.35kg of gardenia flower extract, 0.2kg of chrysanthemum flower extract and 0.2kg of plum blossom extract, which are dissolved in 1kg of caprylic/capric triglyceride, and 0.4kg of butylated hydroxytoluene is added as an antioxidant. The extraction method of each plant extract is as follows:
sunflower seed oil: washing and drying oriented sunflower seeds, grinding and crushing, sieving with a 30-mesh sieve, extracting by using petroleum ether and a soxhlet extractor to obtain a petroleum ether solution of sunflower seed oil, and removing the petroleum ether in the petroleum ether solution by reduced pressure distillation;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: cleaning fructus Arctii, oven drying, grinding, pulverizing, sieving with 60 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether at 75 deg.C in a Soxhlet extractor to colorless, soaking with ethanol, and ultrasonic extracting; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum distilling to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Arctii extract;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi Indici, oven drying, grinding, pulverizing, sieving with 60 mesh sieve, adding ethanol 5 times of flos Chrysanthemi Indici, heating to 60 deg.C, soaking under nitrogen protection for 6min, and extracting with ultrasound; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum removing water and ethanol to obtain flos Chrysanthemi Indici extract;
the fructus kochiae extract: cleaning Kochiae fructus, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 60 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, adding sodium carbonate solution to adjust pH to 6.5, soaking and extracting at 50 deg.C for 1h, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at 50 deg.C or below to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
the schisandra fruit extract: cleaning fructus Schisandrae chinensis, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 60 mesh sieve, adding 6 times of ethanol, heating to 60 deg.C, extracting under the assistance of ultrasound, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, repeating for 3 times, and evaporating the supernatant under vacuum to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Schisandrae chinensis extract;
mung bean seed extract: cleaning semen Phaseoli Radiati, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 60 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, adding sodium carbonate solution to adjust pH to 6.5, soaking and extracting at 50 deg.C for 1h, centrifuging at 3000r/min, collecting supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at no more than 50 deg.C to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
safflower extract, gardenia extract: cleaning and drying a part of a safflower flower, grinding and crushing the safflower flower in an ice-water bath, sieving the safflower flower with a 60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water with the mass 50 times of the dry weight of the safflower flower or the gardenia, heating the safflower flower or the gardenia to 55 ℃ under the protection of nitrogen, carrying out ultrasonic-assisted extraction for 10min, centrifuging the mixture at the temperature lower than 10 ℃ to obtain supernatant, and removing water under vacuum to obtain a safflower flower extract and a gardenia extract;
chrysanthemum extract, plum extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi or flos Pruni mume, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 100 mesh sieve, adding 20% sodium chloride solution with liquid-material ratio of 10:1, and soaking at room temperature under ultrasound for 20 min; extracting the maceration extract by steam distillation until 70% solution is evaporated, and vacuum evaporating the evaporated and condensed solution to remove water to obtain chrysanthemum essential oil and plum blossom essential oil; adding ethanol into the unevaporated material, cooling, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, vacuum evaporating to remove solvent to obtain flavonoid extract, and combining the flavonoid extract with flos Chrysanthemi essential oil and flos Pruni mume essential oil to obtain flos Chrysanthemi extract and flos Pruni mume extract.
Examples 2 to 3: an oil control repair concealer differing from example 1 in that the amount of partial material added was varied.
Comparative examples 1 to 5: an oil control repair concealer differing from example 1 in that the amount of partial material added was varied.
The specific amounts of each material added in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in Table 1.
Table 1: tables of specific Components of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000131
Experiments 1, 2, 3 and 5 were performed on examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5, and the results are shown in table 2.
Table 2: examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5 skin oil control ability, skin repair ability, skin feel score and processing morphology data
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000132
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000141
In table 2, it can be seen from the comparison of the above comparative examples and examples that the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner work together to help improve the moisturizing, oil control and repairing effects of the concealer, so that the skin has lower oil content on the surface and better viscoelasticity. And compared with the example 2 and the example 3, the material ratio in the example 1 has stronger improvement on the viscoelasticity of the skin and the skin feeling, and is a better example. Comparative example 1, comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 the removal of lentil seed extract, zinc PCA and a second skin conditioning agent from example 1, respectively, resulted in increased oil on the skin surface and a reduced rate of change in viscoelasticity after use. In the comparative example 4, the squalane content is too low, so that the whole is greasy, and the oil control capability is poor; in comparative example 5, jojoba seed oil was absent, and thus although there was a satisfactory oil control ability, the moisturizing ability was insufficient and the overall feeling was not sufficient. In comparative examples 4 and 5, the concealer had a strong granular feel due to lack of jojoba seed oil and squalane, and thus was not smooth enough in the overall feel.
Examples 4-12, an oil control concealer, differs from example 1 in the specific ingredients in the second skin conditioner. The specific components of the plant extracts of examples 1 and 4-12 are shown in Table 3.
Table 3: second skin Conditioning agent ingredient Table in example 1 and examples 4-12
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000142
Experiment 1, experiment 2, experiment 3 and experiment 4 were performed on examples 1 and 4 to 12, and the results are shown in table 4, respectively.
Table 4: example 1 and examples 4-12 results of experiments on skin oil control ability, skin repair ability, skin feel score and irritation
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000143
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000151
In the above experimental results, examples 1, 4 and 5 all have better water-retention oil-control repairing effects, reduce the oil content on the skin surface, and improve the skin viscoelasticity. In addition, the skin pricked after coating with lactic acid was reduced in each of examples 1, 4 and 5, and the principle thereof is presumed as follows: under the combined action of various plant extracts, the concealer can form a protective film on the surface of the skin, so that the stimulation of lactic acid to the skin is reduced. The mung bean extract and the broom cypress fruit extract contain proteins as main active ingredients, have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, and are also main ingredients for forming a protective film. Thus, in example 9, the anti-irritation ability of the concealer was significantly reduced because there was no mung bean seed extract and no broom cypress fruit extract. However, the reducing substances in the safflower extract and the gardenia extract can keep the protein generating active oxygen or free radicals under the irradiation of ultraviolet rays, so in example 11, the safflower extract and the gardenia extract are lacked, and the active oxygen substances or free radicals generated in the concealer under the irradiation of ultraviolet rays can damage the skin, cause the skin to be more sensitive and enhance the tingling sensation. In addition, in example 12, the plum blossom extract and the chrysanthemum extract are not contained, and the essential oil components in the plum blossom extract and the chrysanthemum extract have a strong moisturizing effect, so that the moisturizing feeling of example 12 is low, and meanwhile, the plum blossom extract and the chrysanthemum extract have a certain anti-inflammatory effect and can reduce the irritation to the skin.
Examples 13 to 16: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in the specific composition of the colorant in the composition. Experiment 4 was performed for example 1 and examples 13-16. The specific components of the colorants in examples 1 and 13-16 and the results of experiment 5 are shown in Table 5.
Table 5: the results of the color test and the change in the colorant composition in example 1 and examples 13 to 16
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000152
As is clear from the comparative examples conducted by the above examples and comparative examples, only the colorant of example 1 can realize color change under ultraviolet irradiation and restore the original color after stopping the irradiation.
Examples 17-27 the extraction process of the plant extract was adjusted.
Example 17: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that the burdock fruit extract is extracted directly by ethanol without a soxhlet extractor and petroleum ether.
Example 18: an oil-control repair concealer differing from example 1 in that the ethanol impregnation process was carried out without ultrasound-assisted extraction during the extraction of the burdock fruit extract.
Example 19: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that the wild chrysanthemum flower extract is extracted without nitrogen protection.
Example 20: an oil control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that ultrasonic assistance is not used during extraction of a wild chrysanthemum flower extract.
Example 21: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from that in example 1 in that sodium carbonate solution is not added during extraction of the broom cypress fruit extract and the mung bean seed extract, and sodium chloride solution with equal concentration is added instead.
Example 22: an oil control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that ultrasonic assistance is not used in extracting the schisandra fruit extract.
Example 23: an oil control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that during the extraction of the safflower extract and the gardenia extract, the grinding process is protected by an ice-water bath.
Example 24: an oil control repairing concealer is different from that in example 1 in that ultrasonic-assisted extraction is not used in the extraction of the safflower extract and the gardenia extract.
Example 25: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from that in example 1 in that when chrysanthemum extract and plum blossom extract are extracted, ethanol is directly added for leaching without using a steam distillation method.
Example 26: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from that in example 1 in that 20kg of sodium chloride solution is not added during extraction of chrysanthemum extract and plum blossom extract, and an equal amount of deionized water is added instead.
Example 27: an oil-control repairing concealer is different from the concealer in example 1 in that the extraction method of the plant extract comprises the following specific steps:
sunflower seed oil: washing and drying oriented sunflower seeds, grinding and crushing, sieving with a 40-mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether and a soxhlet extractor to obtain a petroleum ether solution of sunflower seed oil, and distilling under reduced pressure to remove the petroleum ether;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: cleaning fructus Arctii, oven drying, grinding, pulverizing, sieving with 30 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether at 85 deg.C in a Soxhlet extractor until colorless, soaking with ethanol, and ultrasonic-assisted extracting; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum distilling to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Arctii extract;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi Indici, oven drying, grinding, pulverizing, sieving with 30 mesh sieve, adding ethanol 10 times of flos Chrysanthemi Indici, heating to 50 deg.C, soaking under nitrogen protection for 10min, and extracting with ultrasound; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum removing water and ethanol to obtain flos Chrysanthemi Indici extract;
the fructus kochiae extract: cleaning Kochiae fructus, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, soaking and extracting at 40 deg.C for 1 hr, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at temperature not higher than 50 deg.C to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
the schisandra fruit extract: cleaning fructus Schisandrae chinensis, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30 mesh sieve, adding 3 times of ethanol, heating to 45 deg.C, extracting under the assistance of ultrasound, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, repeating for more than 3 times, and evaporating the supernatant under vacuum to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Schisandrae chinensis extract;
mung bean seed extract: cleaning semen Phaseoli Radiati, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, adding sodium carbonate solution to adjust pH to 6.5, soaking and extracting at 40 deg.C for 1h, centrifuging at 4000r/min, collecting supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at 50 deg.C or below to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
safflower extract, gardenia extract: cleaning and drying a part of the safflower, grinding and crushing the part in an ice-water bath, sieving the part with a 60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water with the mass 50 times of the dry weight of the safflower or the gardenia, heating the mixture to 45 ℃ under the protection of nitrogen, carrying out ultrasonic-assisted extraction for 5min, centrifuging the mixture at the temperature of not higher than 10 ℃ to obtain supernatant, and removing water under vacuum to obtain a safflower extract and a gardenia extract;
chrysanthemum extract, plum extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi or flos Pruni mume, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, adding 15% sodium chloride solution with a liquid-to-material ratio of 18:1, and soaking at room temperature under ultrasound for 30 min; extracting the maceration extract by steam distillation until 70% solution is evaporated, and vacuum evaporating the evaporated and condensed solution to remove water to obtain chrysanthemum essential oil and plum blossom essential oil; adding ethanol into the unevaporated material, cooling, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, vacuum evaporating to remove solvent to obtain flavonoid extract, and combining the flavonoid extract with flos Chrysanthemi essential oil and flos Pruni mume essential oil to obtain flos Chrysanthemi extract and flos Pruni mume extract.
The tests in experiment 1, experiment 2, experiment 3 and experiment 4 were carried out for examples 17 to 27, and the results of the tests are shown in Table 6 in comparison with example 1.
Table 6: example 1 and example 17-example 27 Experimental results of skin oil control, skin repair, skin feel score and irritation experiments
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000171
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000181
As can be seen from the data in table 6, in example 17, the burdock fruit extract was extracted without the pre-extraction with the soxhlet extractor and petroleum ether, and the partially oil-soluble irritant substance in the burdock fruit was dissolved in ethanol and remained in the concealer, thereby causing damage to the skin and causing poor effect of reducing the tingling sensation of the skin after the application of lactic acid.
In examples 18, 20, 22 and 24, the extraction process is not assisted by ultrasound, so that the effective components in the plants are difficult to be uniformly dispersed in ethanol or deionized water for leaching in the leaching process, and further the inorganic salt content in the solution obtained by leaching is high, the effective component content is low, and the water-retention and oil-control repairing effect of the concealer is weakened.
In example 19, the extraction process was not protected by nitrogen, and in example 23, the milling process was not protected by an ice water bath. In the above process, the material is oxidized by oxygen in the air, resulting in the reduction of the effective reducing components in the final extract, thus resulting in poor skin repairing ability and anti-irritation ability of the concealer.
In example 21, during extraction, sodium carbonate solution is not added for pH adjustment, and protein is easy to precipitate in the extraction process, so that the protein is settled in the lower solid layer during centrifugation, the content of the protein in the supernatant is reduced, and the skin protection effect of the concealer is weakened.
In example 25, the extraction was not performed by steam distillation, and thus the obtained chrysanthemum extract and plum extract had a small content of essential oil, resulting in poor moisturizing effect and poor moisturizing feeling of the concealer on the skin. In example 26, although steam distillation was performed, deionized water was used instead of sodium chloride solution during distillation, which resulted in poor azeotropic effect of essential oil and water during distillation, reduced essential oil content, and reduced moisturizing effect and moist feeling of the concealer.
Examples 28-37 and comparative examples 6-10 were adjusted for the production process of the concealer.
Example 28, an oil control repair concealer, different from example 1, in that in step S2, the heating temperature was 80 ℃ and the post-cooling temperature was 65 ℃; in step S5, the temperature is decreased to 40 ℃.
Example 29: an oil control repairing concealer differs from the embodiment 1 in that in the step S1, the stirring time is 15 min; in step S3, stirring for 8 min; in step S4, the mean time is 4 min; in step S6, the stirring time is 5 min; in step S7, the ultrasound time is 10 min.
Example 30: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in steps S1 and S2, the stirring speed is 1200rpm, in step S3 the stirring speed is 1350rpm, in steps S4, S5 and S8 the stirring speed is 3100rpm, and in step S6 the stirring speed is 600 rpm.
Example 31: an oil control repairing concealer differs from the embodiment 1 in that in the step S5, the cooling rate is 10 ℃/min; in step S8, the cooling rate is 10 ℃/min.
Example 32: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in steps S5 and S8, the cooling rate was 18 ℃/min.
Example 33: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in steps S5 and S8, the cooling rate was 5 ℃/min.
Example 34: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in step S8, a first skin conditioner and a second skin conditioner were slowly added to the cooled pigmented mixed phase over 6 minutes and stirred for 6 min.
Example 35: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in step S8, all of the first skin conditioning agent and the second skin conditioning agent were added directly to the cooled pigmented mixed phase.
Example 36: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that in step S8, when the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are added to the cooled pigmented mixed phase, the system is not under vacuum.
Example 37: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that when the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are added to the cooled pigmented blend phase, no sonication is performed.
Comparative example 6, an oil control repair concealer, differs from example 1 in that step S1' replaces step S1 and step S2 in example 1. Step S1': heating petrolatum to 95 deg.C, adding thickener, jojoba oil, dimethyl silicon alkylated silica and squalane, and stirring for 10 min.
Comparative example 7: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that step S5 is replaced with step S5'. Step S5': and (5) sampling the coloring mixed phase in the step S4, comparing the coloring mixed phase with the standard sample color, adjusting the added coloring agent until the coloring agent is consistent with the surface sample color, and cooling to 35 ℃ to obtain the cooled coloring mixed phase.
Comparative example 8: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that step S7 is replaced with step S7'. Step S7': mixing the plant extract with caprylic/capric triglyceride at 20 + -5 deg.C, and stirring at 1000rpm for 5 min.
Comparative example 9: an oil control repair concealer differing from example 1 in that step S6, step S7 and step S8 were replaced with step S9: adding semen Sojae Atricolor extract, zinc PCA, and plant extract into the cooled colored mixed phase, stirring under vacuum for 6min, and ultrasonic dispersing at 40kHz, and cooling to room temperature at 10 deg.C/min.
Comparative example 10: an oil control repair concealer differs from example 1 in that steps S1-S8 are adjusted as follows:
s1: mixing silica dimethyl silylate and squalane, and stirring at 20 + -5 deg.C for 25min to obtain a first mixed phase;
s2: mixing a thickening agent, petrolatum and jojoba seed oil, heating to 95 ℃ to melt the mixture, adding the first mixed phase obtained in the step 1, and stirring for 5min to obtain a second mixed phase;
s3: adding an antioxidant, aluminum chlorohydrol, a filler and a preservative into the second mixed phase obtained in the step S2 at 95 ℃, and fully stirring for 5min to obtain a third mixed phase;
s4: adding a colorant into the third mixed phase obtained in the step S3, homogenizing for 7min, and comparing with the standard sample color to obtain a colored mixed phase;
s5: adding lentil seed extract and zinc PCA into emulsifier at 20 + -5 deg.C, stirring for 2min to obtain first skin conditioner;
s7: adding the plant extract into caprylic/capric triglyceride at 20 + -5 deg.C, introducing nitrogen nanometer microbubbles, and treating with ultrasound for 5min to obtain a second skin conditioner;
s8: under a vacuum state, and with the assistance of 40kHz ultrasonic dispersion, uniformly and slowly adding the first skin conditioner obtained in the step S6 and the second skin conditioner obtained in the step S7 into the cooled coloring mixed phase obtained in the step S5 within 3 minutes, adding essence, stirring for 15min, gradually cooling to room temperature, and extruding to obtain a finished product;
wherein, the thickening agent comprises synthetic wax and white beeswax, and the colorant comprises titanium dioxide, iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow and iron oxide black; the emulsifier is lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane; the antioxidant is diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate and tocopheryl acetate; the preservative is phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol in a mass ratio of 9: 1.
In steps S1 and S2, the stirring speed was 800rpm, in step S3 the stirring speed was 1000rpm, in steps S4, S5 and S8 the stirring speed was 2000rpm, and in step S6 the stirring speed was 800 rpm. In step S8, the cooling rate is 15 ℃/min.
Experiments 1, 2, 3 and 5 were carried out for examples 28 to 37 and comparative examples 6 to 10, and the results are shown in Table 7.
Table 7: examples 1, 28-37 and comparative examples 6-10 Experimental results on skin oil control, skin repair, skin feel scores and processing morphology
Figure RE-GDA0002581396940000211
Comparing example 1 with examples 28-31 and example 34, the time, temperature and other parameters in the process were adjusted within a certain range, and the effect on the properties of the obtained concealer was small.
In example 32, since the cooling rate in step S5 and step S8 was slow, bubbles were precipitated fast during the cooling process, and the bubbles could not be sufficiently precipitated from the system, resulting in more gas being dissolved in the system, and the uniformity of the concealer was decreased. In example 33, the cooling rate in step S5 and step S8 was slow, and therefore titanium dioxide in the system agglomerated during the production process, which further affected the uniformity of the system. Both of these cause a decrease in the smoothness of the concealer, which in turn leads to a decrease in the freshness of the concealer if agglomerates form in the system.
In example 35, the addition of the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner all at once to the cooled pigmented mixed phase resulted in the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner not being uniformly dispersed throughout the concealer, thereby reducing the overall uniformity. In example 36, step S8 was not performed with vacuum, so that bubbles were less likely to be precipitated from the concealer during stirring, resulting in bubbling of the concealer during subsequent cooling. And in a non-vacuum state, the effective components in the concealer are easily oxidized by oxygen in the air, so that the repairing and oil control capability of the concealer is reduced. In example 37, the lack of ultrasonic dispersion process resulted in bubbles being precipitated from the system, and gas remained inside the concealer due to its high viscosity, and could not overflow from the concealer, and further resulted in more gas in the produced concealer, which affected the fineness and moistening of the concealer.
In comparative example 6, the processing steps of S1 and S2 were changed by directly adding dimethylsilylated silica and squalane to petrolatum and stirring with jojoba seed oil and thickener. In the process, because the bubbles can not be removed from the system, when the colorant is added subsequently, the colorant is preferentially agglomerated at the positions of the bubbles, so that the overall color is not uniform.
In comparative example 7, the color of the colored mixed phase was compared during heating, and the color changed during the cooling process. Although the color is uniform during the above process, the color after substantial cooling deviates from the standard. Therefore, in the actual production process, the color of the sample is compared with the color of the standard sample after the temperature is reduced, so that more accurate color matching is realized.
In comparative example 8, the second skin conditioner was mixed by stirring, in which some particles in the plant extract settled or adhered to the edge of the stirrer by centrifugal force, resulting in uneven mixing. And part of effective components in the plant extract have ordinary solubility and are easy to settle or agglomerate in the stirring process, so that the prepared second skin conditioner has less effective components. In the embodiment 1, a nano-microbubble method is selected for mixing, and the nano-microbubbles and the plant extract are crushed together by ultrasound, so that the effect of solubilization is achieved, the plant extract can be more fully dissolved in a system, and the repair function of the concealer is improved.
In comparative example 9, the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner were not pre-formulated and each material was directly included in the colored mixed phase after cooling. Because the solubility of the coloring mixed phase is poor after cooling, the effective components such as PCA zinc, plant extracts and the like are easily dispersed unevenly in the coloring mixed phase and are easy to agglomerate, so that the effective components in the concealer cannot be fully absorbed by the skin, and the repair capability and the oil control capability of the concealer are further reduced.
In comparative example 10, the reaction was kept at a high temperature throughout the reaction, which was not conducive to the venting of the gas dissolved in the concealer paste, resulting in many bubbles remaining in the concealer paste during the cooling molding process; on the other hand, the high temperature also easily causes the agglomeration of the materials in the concealer, thereby affecting the uniformity of the concealer. In addition, under high temperature, part of the effective components in the concealer are easily oxidized, so that the repairing capability and the oil control capability of the concealer are obviously reduced, and more grease is left on the surface of the skin.
The embodiments of the present invention are preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these embodiments, so: all equivalent changes made according to the structure, shape and principle of the invention are covered by the protection scope of the invention.

Claims (10)

1. The utility model provides a concealer is restoreed to accuse oil, a concealer is restoreed to accuse oil which characterized in that: comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
silica dimethyl silylate: 1 to 2 percent;
squalane: 4 to 6 percent;
thickening agent: 5 to 8 percent;
petrolatum: 25 to 30 percent;
jojoba seed oil: 0.5-1%;
first skin conditioning agent: 1.1-6%;
second skin conditioner: 2 to 7 percent;
aluminum chlorohydrate: 1 to 5 percent;
filling: 14 to 18 percent;
emulsifier: 1 to 5 percent;
antioxidant: 0.2 to 1.4 percent;
colorant: 22.2-35.4%;
preservative: 0.55 to 1 percent;
essence: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
wherein the first skin conditioner consists of a mixture of lentil seed extract and zinc PCA and the second skin conditioner comprises a plant extract and caprylic/capric triglyceride; the thickening agent is a mixture of synthetic wax and white beeswax, and the colorant is a mixture of titanium dioxide and an iron oxide colorant; the filler is composed of silica and mica.
2. An oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the components of the second skin conditioner and the mass fraction of each component in the total amount of the concealer are as follows:
sunflower seed oil: 0.3-1.1%;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: 0.05 to 0.5 percent;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: 0.05 to 0.5 percent
The fructus kochiae extract: 0.05-0.4%
The schisandra fruit extract: 0.05 to 0.4 percent;
mung bean seed extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
safflower extract: 0.1 to 0.5 percent;
gardenia extract: 0.1 to 0.5 percent;
and (3) chrysanthemum extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
plum blossom extract: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;
caprylic/capric triglyceride: 0.6-3%;
preservative: 0.2 to 0.5 percent.
3. An oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 2, wherein: the extraction method of the plant extract comprises the following steps:
sunflower seed oil: washing and drying oriented sunflower seeds, grinding and crushing, sieving with a 30-40 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether and a soxhlet extractor to obtain a petroleum ether solution of sunflower seed oil, and distilling under reduced pressure to remove the petroleum ether;
and (3) burdock fruit extract: cleaning fructus Arctii, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, extracting with petroleum ether at 75-85 deg.C in a Soxhlet extractor to colorless, soaking in ethanol, and performing ultrasonic-assisted extraction; centrifuging after extraction, collecting supernatant, and vacuum distilling to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Arctii extract;
wild chrysanthemum flower extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi Indici, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding ethanol, heating to 50-60 deg.C, soaking under nitrogen protection for 6-10min, and extracting with ultrasound; centrifuging after extraction, taking supernatant, and removing water and ethanol in the supernatant in vacuum to obtain a wild chrysanthemum flower extract, wherein the mass of the ethanol is 5-10 times that of the wild chrysanthemum flower;
the fructus kochiae extract: cleaning Kochiae fructus, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding deionized water, mixing, soaking at 40-50 deg.C for 1 hr, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, and vacuum evaporating at temperature not higher than 50 deg.C to remove water to obtain Kochiae fructus extract;
the schisandra fruit extract: cleaning fructus Schisandrae chinensis, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 30-60 mesh sieve, adding 3-6 times of ethanol, heating to 45-60 deg.C, extracting under ultrasound assistance, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, repeating for more than 3 times, and evaporating the supernatant under vacuum to remove ethanol to obtain fructus Schisandrae chinensis extract;
mung bean seed extract: cleaning and drying mung bean seeds, grinding and crushing the mung bean seeds, sieving the mung bean seeds with a 30-60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water, uniformly mixing the deionized water and the deionized water, adding a sodium carbonate solution to adjust the pH value to 6.5, soaking and extracting the mung bean seeds for 1 hour at the temperature of 40-50 ℃, centrifuging the mung bean seeds at 3000-4000r/min, taking supernatant, and removing water in the supernatant by vacuum evaporation under the condition that the temperature is not higher than 50 ℃ to obtain a broom cypress fruit extract;
safflower extract, gardenia extract: cleaning and drying the part of the safflower and the gardenia, grinding and crushing the part in an ice-water bath, sieving the part by a 30-60-mesh sieve, adding deionized water with the mass being 20-50 times of the dry weight of the safflower or the gardenia, heating the mixture to 45-55 ℃ under the protection of nitrogen, carrying out ultrasonic-assisted extraction for 5-10min, centrifuging the mixture at a low temperature to obtain supernatant, and removing water under vacuum to obtain a safflower extract and a gardenia extract;
chrysanthemum extract, plum extract: cleaning flos Chrysanthemi or flos Pruni mume, oven drying, grinding, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve, adding 15-20% sodium chloride solution with liquid-material ratio of (10-18):1, and soaking at room temperature under ultrasound for 20-30 min; extracting the maceration extract by steam distillation until 70% solution is evaporated, and vacuum evaporating the evaporated and condensed solution to remove water to obtain chrysanthemum essential oil and plum blossom essential oil; adding ethanol into the unevaporated material, cooling, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, vacuum evaporating to remove solvent to obtain flavonoid extract, and combining the flavonoid extract with flos Chrysanthemi essential oil and flos Pruni mume essential oil to obtain flos Chrysanthemi extract and flos Pruni mume extract.
4. An oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
silica dimethyl silylate: 1.5 percent;
squalane: 5 percent;
thickening agent: 6.8 percent;
petrolatum: 27.5 percent;
jojoba seed oil: 1 percent;
lentil seed extract: 3 percent;
zinc PCA: 0.5 percent;
second skin conditioner: 4 percent;
aluminum chlorohydrate: 2 percent;
filling: 16 percent;
emulsifier: 2 percent;
antioxidant: 0.7 percent;
colorant: 28.8 percent;
preservative: 1 percent;
essence: 0.2 percent;
wherein the thickening agent consists of 3.8 percent of white beeswax and 3 percent of synthetic wax which account for 3.8 percent of the total concealer material, the emulsifying agent is lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, and the coloring agent consists of 25 percent of titanium dioxide, 1.4 percent of iron oxide red, 2.1 percent of iron oxide yellow and 0.3 percent of iron oxide black which account for the total concealer material; the antioxidant consists of tocopherol acetate accounting for 0.2 percent of the total material of the concealer and 0.5 percent of diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate; the filler consists of silica and 10% mica, 6% of the total mass of concealer.
5. A process for the production of an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claims 1 to 4, characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
s1: mixing silica dimethyl silylate and squalane, and stirring at 20 + -5 deg.C for 15-25min to obtain a first mixed phase;
s2: mixing a thickening agent, petrolatum and jojoba seed oil, heating to 80-95 ℃, melting, cooling to 60-65 ℃ while keeping stirring, and adding the first mixed phase obtained in the step 1 to obtain a second mixed phase;
s3: adding an antioxidant, aluminum chlorohydrol, a filler and a preservative into the second mixed phase obtained in the step S2 at 60-65 ℃, and stirring for 5-8min to obtain a third mixed phase;
s4: adding 2 colorants into the third mixed phase obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing for 4-7min to obtain a colored mixed phase;
s5: cooling the colored mixed phase obtained in the step S4 to 35-40 ℃ under the condition of keeping stirring to obtain a cooled colored mixed phase, sampling the cooled colored mixed phase, comparing the sampled colored mixed phase with the color of a standard sample, if the color of the colored mixed phase is not consistent with the color of the standard sample, heating the cooled colored mixed phase to 60-65 ℃, and repeating the steps S4 and S5 until the color of the sampled colored mixed phase is consistent with the color of the standard sample;
s6: adding lentil seed extract and zinc PCA into emulsifier at 20 + -5 deg.C, stirring for 2-5min, and mixing to obtain first skin conditioner;
s7: adding the plant extract into caprylic/capric triglyceride at 20 + -5 deg.C, introducing nanometer microbubbles, and treating with ultrasound for 5-10min to mix well for 4-7min to obtain a second skin conditioner;
s8: adding the first skin conditioner obtained in the step S6 and the second skin conditioner obtained in the step S7 into the cooled coloring mixed phase obtained in the step S5, adding essence, stirring for 6-15min under vacuum, gradually cooling to room temperature, and extruding to obtain a finished product;
wherein the stirring speed in the steps S1 and S2 is 800-1200rpm, and the stirring speed in the step S3 is 1000-1350 rpm; the stirring speed in the steps S4, S5 and S8 is 2000-2100 rpm; the stirring speed in step S6 is 600-800 rpm.
6. A process for producing an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 5, wherein: in the step S8, the system is subjected to defoaming treatment by ultrasonic waves while stirring, the frequency of the ultrasonic waves being not less than 40 kHz.
7. A process for producing an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 6, wherein: in step S8, the first skin conditioner and the second skin conditioner are uniformly and continuously added into the cooled colored mixed phase obtained in step S5 within 3-6 minutes, and the above process is carried out while keeping stirring and ultrasonic dispersion all the time.
8. A process for producing an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 5, wherein: in step S7, nitrogen is selected as the gas in the nano microbubbles.
9. A process for producing an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 5, wherein: in the step S5, the cooling rate is 8-10/min.
10. A process for producing an oil control repair concealer as claimed in claim 5, wherein: in the step S8, the cooling speed is 10-15 ℃/min.
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