CN111317701B

CN111317701B - Skin barrier repair compound, skin care emulsion and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111317701B
Application number: CN202010255854.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 温伟红; 徐洁琼; 容惠; 姚文玉
Original assignee: Guangzhou Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-02
Filing date: 2020-04-02
Publication date: 2023-03-28
Anticipated expiration: 2040-04-02
Also published as: CN111317701A

Abstract

The invention provides a skin barrier repair compound, a skin care emulsion and a preparation method thereof. The skin barrier repair composite comprises: a skin barrier repair composition, centella asiatica extract, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, bearberry leaf extract, glycyrrhiza inflate root extract, and oat protein extract; the composition for repairing skin barrier comprises: hypecoum vulgare callus culture filtrate, tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid and hydrolyzed red algae extract. The skin barrier repairing compound not only has the effect of repairing a skin barrier, but also can resist excessive free radicals, improve the self oxidation resistance of the skin, inhibit melanin pigmentation and promote the metabolism of the skin. The skin care emulsion prepared from the skin barrier repair compound has obvious whitening and repair effects, can effectively improve skin photoaging, helps cell saccharification reversal, promotes skin collagen, and has the effects of slowing skin aging, improving color spots, whitening and brightening, and reducing wrinkles.

Description

Skin barrier repair compound, skin care emulsion and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin barrier repairing compound, a skin care emulsion and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Along with the change of working and living structures, people face to radioactive electric appliances such as computers, mobile phones and the like for a long time every day, so that the skin is seriously lack of water, and if the water cannot be supplemented in time, the skin is dark, so that pigment deposition is caused, and black spots are seriously generated. Especially for sunburn or damaged skin, dark spots can occur if not repaired in time. Moreover, as the human body ages, the skin becomes thinner and loses elasticity, and senile black spots appear and are more easily stimulated. Facial skin aging is often accompanied by the appearance of dryness, water deficit, and age spots. In order to whiten and repair the skin, a common method at present is to use a high-concentration chemically-synthesized repair liquid, such as a vitamin C cream, salicylic acid, retinol and the like, but the whitening products generally have the defects that the rapid whitening effect is only focused on, the repair of skin barrier damage is neglected, and the skin becomes sensitive, becomes reddish and even red after long-term use, and can be stimulated to accelerate the growth of hair.

CN109568159A discloses a whitening and repairing beauty composition, which is prepared from 8-12 wt% of a humectant, no more than 6wt% of a skin conditioner, 0.5-1.5 wt% of a plant extract, 1.0-1.75 wt% of an auxiliary material and the balance of water.

CN110101597A discloses a skin barrier repair compound, and the composition for whitening and repairing skin barrier damage comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-10% of liquorice polysaccharide, 0.1-10% of tremella polysaccharide, 0.1-10% of okra polysaccharide and 0.1-10% of saussurea involucrate polysaccharide, and the composition can have a good repairing effect on skin barrier function damage caused by whitening and can relieve the problems of dry skin, allergy and the like caused by whitening.

Therefore, there is a need to develop a skin care product capable of whitening skin and repairing damaged skin barrier.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a skin barrier repair compound, a skin care emulsion and a preparation method thereof. The skin barrier repairing compound can achieve the effects of repairing a cutin barrier and an immune barrier simultaneously, enhancing a micro-ecological barrier, effectively inhibiting melanin from transferring to a keratinocyte, inhibiting melanin deposition, promoting skin metabolism and further reducing pigmentation; the skin care emulsion prepared by the method has obvious whitening and repairing effects, can effectively improve skin photoaging, helps cell saccharification reversal, and further achieves the effects of slowing skin aging, improving color spots, whitening and reducing wrinkles.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the present invention provides a skin barrier repair composite comprising: a skin barrier repair composition, centella asiatica extract, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, bearberry leaf extract, glycyrrhiza inflate root extract, and oat protein extract;

the composition for repairing skin barrier comprises: hypecoum vulgare callus culture filtrate, tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid and hydrolyzed red algae extract.

In the present invention, the skin barrier repair complex comprises: the skin barrier repairing composition, the centella asiatica extract, the aloe barbadensis leaf extract, the bearberry leaf extract, the glycyrrhiza inflate extract and the oat protein extract are reasonable in compatibility of medicines and have a synergistic effect, excessive free radicals are resisted, the oxidation resistance of the skin is improved, the keratinocyte barrier is repaired, the immune barrier is repaired and the micro-ecological barrier is enhanced, melanin can be effectively inhibited from transferring to keratinocytes, melanin deposition is inhibited, metabolism of the skin is promoted, and pigmentation is reduced.

In the composition for repairing the skin barrier, the hypecoum vulgare callus culture filtrate, the tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and the hydrolyzed red algae extract are matched with each other to realize synergistic interaction, so that the skin barrier is comprehensively repaired. Harmful invasion factors are isolated outside the skin by repairing the cutin barrier, repairing the immune barrier and enhancing the micro-ecological barrier, and a complete and healthy skin defense line is constructed, so that various skin problems are fundamentally solved. In addition, the composition for repairing the skin barrier has the effects of resisting inflammation, relieving, quickly and effectively soothing the inflammatory reaction and discomfort symptoms of the skin, and maintaining the steady state and the basic health of the skin.

The hypsizygus marmoreus callus culture filtrate is selected rare-earth hypsizygus marmoreus, and stem cell active factors are cultured by a special process, so that the keratinocyte renewal can be effectively regulated, the skin cutin barrier can be strengthened, and the skin resistance can be improved. The tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid is extracted from halophilic bacteria vitamin factors in desert salt lakes, can effectively protect skin immune barriers, enables the skin to be free from external damage, and keeps youth for a long time. The hydrolyzed red algae extract is preferably Durvillea in pure sea area, effectively improves the micro-ecological environment of skin, enables the number of resident flora to reach a beneficial balanced state, enables the skin to maintain healthy metabolism, and achieves ideal moisture, luster and healthy states.

The centella asiatica extract can promote the formation of collagen in the dermis of the skin, regenerate fibrin, nourish deeply, enhance the softness and elasticity of the skin, improve the phenomena of dark and yellow skin color and antioxidation, and can also dispel aged cuticle and promote the new and old skin.

The aloe vera leaf extract can effectively reduce tyrosinase activity, prevent generation and deposition of melanin, remove yellow gas, brighten skin color, repair skin wounds, soothe and calm, and repair sensitive skin.

The bearberry leaf extract can rapidly permeate into skin, effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin and block the formation of melanin while not influencing the proliferation concentration of skin cells, and accelerate the decomposition and excretion of the melanin through the combination of the bearberry leaf extract and the tyrosinase, thereby reducing the pigmentation of the skin, resisting excessive free radicals, improving the self oxidation resistance of the skin and removing color spots and freckles.

The collagen component in the glycyrrhiza inflata root extract can enable the skin to be firmer, and meanwhile, the anti-aging component in the glycyrrhiza inflata root extract can obviously resist the deposition of melanin, resist excessive free radicals, improve the self oxidation resistance of the skin and achieve the effect of whitening the skin.

The oat protein extract oat contains a large amount of antioxidant components, and the antioxidant components can effectively inhibit the progress of redox reaction in the melanin formation process, reduce the formation of melanin, lighten color spots and keep white and beautiful skin.

Preferably, the skin barrier repair compound comprises, in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 1-5 parts of a centella extract, 1-5 parts of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 0.1-3 parts of a bearberry leaf extract, 0.1-3 parts of a glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 0.1-3 parts of an oat protein extract.

In the skin barrier repair compound, the weight part of the composition for repairing the skin barrier is 1-10 parts, and may be, for example, 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts, 6 parts, 7 parts, 8 parts, 9 parts, 10 parts, etc.

In the skin barrier repair composition, the centella asiatica extract is 1 to 5 parts by weight, and may be, for example, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, etc.

In the skin barrier repair composition, the aloe vera leaf extract is 1 to 5 parts by weight, for example, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, etc.

In the skin barrier repair composition, the weight part of the bearberry leaf extract is 0.1-3 parts, for example, 0.1 part, 0.5 part, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts and the like.

In the skin barrier repair compound, the weight part of the glycyrrhiza inflata root extract is 0.1-3 parts, and can be, for example, 0.1 part, 0.5 part, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts and the like.

In the skin barrier repair composition, the oat protein extract is 0.1-3 parts by weight, such as 0.1 part, 0.5 part, 1 part, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, etc.

Preferably, the mass ratio of the hypsizygus marmoreus callus culture filtrate, the tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and the hydrolyzed red algae extract is (3-9): (2-5): (1-3).

Wherein "3 to 9" may be 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, etc.;

wherein "2 to 5" may be 2, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3, 3.2, 3.5, 3.8, 4, 4.2, 4.5, 4.8, 5, etc.;

wherein "1 to 3" may be 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3, etc.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a skin care emulsion comprising a skin barrier repair complex according to the first aspect.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1-10% of the skin barrier repair complex of the first aspect, 5-20% of a skin conditioner, 10-30% of a humectant, 1-10% of an emollient, 0.3-1.5% of an emulsifier, and the balance water.

The skin barrier repair complex of the first aspect may be present in an amount of 1-10%, for example 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

The skin conditioning agent may be present in an amount of 5-20%, for example, 5%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20%, etc., based on 100% of the total weight of the skin care emulsion.

The content of the humectant is 10-30%, for example, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 24%, 26%, 28%, 30%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

The content of the emollient is 1 to 10%, for example, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, etc., based on 100% of the total weight of the skin care emulsion.

The content of the emulsifier is 0.3-1.5%, for example, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.9%, 1.1%, 1.3%, 1.5%, etc., based on 100% by mass of the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the skin conditioning agent comprises any one of or a combination of at least two of Chondrus crispus extract, ceramide 3, hyaluronan silanol, decarboxycarnosine, nicotinamide, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, nonapeptide-1, preferably a combination of Chondrus crispus extract, ceramide 3, hyaluronan silanol, nicotinamide, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and nonapeptide-1. The skin conditioner has the advantages that the components of the skin conditioner are synergistic, the generation of skin cells is accelerated, damaged cells are repaired, the skin is promoted to synthesize more collagen, the cell aging is delayed, color spots are lightened, and therefore fine wrinkles are eliminated, and the skin is whitened and tender.

Preferably, the hyaluronic silanol is composed of macromolecular hyaluronic acid and silanetriol, and the hyaluronic silanol has a stimulation effect on keratinocytes, so that the thickness of the epidermis can be rapidly increased, and the skin can be better moisturized and protected; under the condition that skin is damaged by hormone, flagella at the outer edge of cells can be damaged, and the silanol hyaluronate can repair the flagella at the outer edge of cells, so that beneficial substances can be absorbed, and harmful substances can be eliminated, so that the existing cells are healthier.

Preferably, the mass ratio of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid to the silanetriol is (0.5-2): 1, and can be, for example, 0.5.

Preferably, the molecular weight of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid is between 150 and 180 kilodaltons, such as 150 kilodaltons, 155 Mo Daoer, 160 kilodaltons, 165 Mo Daoer, 170 kilodaltons, 175 Mo Daoer, 180 kilodaltons.

Preferably, the moisturizer comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, glycerol, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, saccharide isomerate (lodestones), 1,2-hexanediol, butanediol, panthenol, xylitol, anhydroxylitol, or xylitol-based glucoside.

Preferably, the molecular weight of the sodium hyaluronate is 80-100 kilodaltons, such as 80 kilodaltons, 82 Mo Daoer, 84 Mo Daoer, 86 Mo Daoer, 88 Mo Daoer, 90 kilodaltons, 92 Mo Daoer, 94 Mo Daoer, 96 Mo Daoer, 98 Mo Daoer, 100 kilodaltons.

Preferably, the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is between 20 and 40 kilodaltons, e.g., 20 kilodaltons, 22 kilodaltons, 24 kilodaltons, 26 kilodaltons, 28 kilodaltons, 30 kilodaltons, 32 kilodaltons, 34 Mo Daoer daltons, 36 kilodaltons, 38 kilodaltons, 40 kilodaltons.

Preferably, the emollient comprises any one or combination of at least two of squalane, shea butter, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, or dimethiconol.

Preferably, the emulsifier comprises a C20-22 alcohol and/or a C20-22 alcohol phosphate.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion further comprises 0.5-2% of an antioxidant, for example, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the antioxidant comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and/or tocopherol acetate.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion further comprises 0.1-2% of a thickening agent, for example, 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8%, 2%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the thickener comprises any one of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum or carbomer or a combination of at least two of the foregoing.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion further comprises 0.05-0.5% of pH regulator based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion, such as 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5% and the like.

Preferably, the pH adjusting agent is triethanolamine.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion further comprises 0.02-0.1% of a chelating agent, such as 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.06%, 0.08%, 0.1%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion further comprises 0.01-0.1% of a fragrance, for example, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.04%, 0.06%, 0.08%, 0.1%, etc., based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the fragrance is a perfume.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing a skin care emulsion according to the second aspect, the method comprising the steps of:

(1) Mixing the humectant with water to obtain a water phase mixed solution; mixing an emollient and an emulsifier in an oil phase to obtain an oil phase mixed solution;

(2) Mixing the water phase mixed liquor and the oil phase mixed liquor obtained in the step (1) and homogenizing to obtain homogenized liquor;

(3) And (3) mixing and stirring the homogeneous liquid obtained in the step (2), the skin barrier repair compound and the skin conditioner to obtain the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the preparation method comprises the following steps:

(1) Mixing a humectant, a thickening agent, a chelating agent and water in a water phase to obtain a water phase mixed solution; mixing an emollient and an emulsifier in an oil phase to obtain an oil phase mixed solution;

(3) And (3) mixing and stirring the homogeneous liquid obtained in the step (2), the skin barrier repair compound, the skin conditioner, the antioxidant, the pH regulator and the aromatic to obtain the skin care emulsion.

Preferably, the temperature of the aqueous phase mixing in step (1) is 80-85 ℃, for example 80 ℃, 81 ℃, 82 ℃, 83 ℃, 84 ℃, 85 ℃ and the like, and the time of the aqueous phase mixing is 5-10min, for example 5min, 6min, 7min, 8min, 9min, 10min and the like.

Preferably, the temperature for mixing the oil phase in step (1) is 78-80 deg.C, such as 78 deg.C, 78.5 deg.C, 79 deg.C, 79.5 deg.C, 80 deg.C, etc., and the time for mixing the oil phase is 5-10min, such as 5min, 6min, 7min, 8min, 9min, 10min, etc.

Preferably, the temperature for mixing and homogenizing in step (2) is 80-82 deg.C, such as 80 deg.C, 80.5 deg.C, 81 deg.C, 81.5 deg.C, 82 deg.C, etc., and the time for mixing and homogenizing is 5-10min, such as 5min, 6min, 7min, 8min, 9min, 10min, etc.

Preferably, the temperature of the mixing and stirring in the step (3) is 40-50 ℃, for example, 40 ℃, 42 ℃, 44 ℃, 46 ℃, 48 ℃,50 ℃ and the like, and the time of the mixing and stirring is 5-10min, for example, 5min, 6min, 7min, 8min, 9min, 10min and the like.

Preferably, the skin care emulsion is prepared by a method comprising the steps of:

(1) Stirring and mixing the humectant, the thickener, the chelating agent and water at 80-85 ℃ for 5-10min to obtain a water phase mixed solution; mixing emollient and emulsifier at 78-80 deg.C under stirring for 5-10min to obtain oil phase mixed solution;

(2) Mixing the water phase mixed liquor and the oil phase mixed liquor obtained in the step (1) at 80-82 ℃ and homogenizing for 5-10min to obtain homogenized liquor;

(3) And (3) mixing and stirring the homogenized liquid obtained in the step (2), the skin barrier repairing compound, the skin conditioner, the antioxidant, the pH regulator and the aromatic at 40-50 ℃ for 5-10min to obtain the skin care emulsion.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) The skin barrier repairing compound disclosed by the invention can achieve the effects of repairing a cutin barrier, repairing an immune barrier and enhancing a micro-ecological barrier, resist excessive free radicals, improve the self oxidation resistance of the skin, effectively inhibit melanin from transferring to keratinocyte, inhibit melanin deposition, promote the metabolism of the skin and further reduce the pigmentation.

(2) The skin care emulsion prepared from the skin barrier repair compound has obvious whitening and repair effects, can effectively improve skin photoaging, helps cell saccharification reversal, promotes expression of skin collagen and elastin, and also has the effects of slowing skin aging, improving color spots, whitening and brightening, and reducing wrinkles.

Detailed Description

The technical solution of the present invention is further explained by the following embodiments. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the examples are only for the understanding of the present invention and should not be construed as the specific limitations of the present invention.

The compositions for repairing skin barriers provided in the following examples were prepared by the following methods:

preparation example 1

The preparation method for preparing the hypecoum vulgare callus culture filtrate comprises the following steps:

(1) Callus induction culture: inoculating the hypecoum erectum explant into an agar culture medium for callus induction culture, wherein the induction culture temperature is 20 ℃, and the induction culture time is 14 days, so as to obtain callus;

(2) Suspension culture of callus particles: inoculating the callus obtained in the step (1) into an MS culture medium, and performing shake culture in a shake culture box at a rotation speed of 100r/min, wherein the temperature of the shake culture is 20 ℃, and the shake culture time is 14 days, so as to obtain a proliferation callus;

(3) Expanding and culturing the callus tissue: inoculating the proliferated callus obtained in the step (2) into a sterile cell bag for amplification culture at the temperature of 25 ℃ for 24 days to obtain the hypecoum erectum callus culture;

(4) Separation: and (4) filtering the hypecoum vulgare callus culture obtained in the step (3) through gauze of 100 meshes, and then performing vacuum drying at 25 ℃ to obtain the fennel callus culture filtrate.

Preparation example 2

The preparation example prepares the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, and the preparation method of the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid comprises the following steps:

(A) Culturing desert halophilic bacteria: inoculating desert halophilic bacteria into an SCDLP liquid culture medium, and culturing in a shaking incubator at the rotating speed of 1000r/min, wherein the culturing temperature is 20 ℃, and the culturing time is 48h, so as to obtain desert halophilic bacteria thallus;

(B) Osmotic shock: resuspending the desert halophilic bacteria thallus obtained in the step (A) in a high osmotic pressure solution (the high osmotic pressure solution comprises 18% of sucrose, 0.1% of EDTA and the balance of water by mass percent), soaking for 1h, and filtering to obtain a precipitate desert halophilic bacteria thallus;

(C) Electrodialysis: and (C) carrying out electrodialysis treatment on the desert halophilic bacteria thallus obtained in the step (B) to obtain the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid.

Preparation example 3

The preparation example prepares a hydrolyzed red algae extract, and the preparation method of the hydrolyzed red algae extract comprises the following steps:

(a) Extraction: cleaning Du Erwei Li Zao, pulverizing, and sieving with 100-200 mesh sieve to obtain red algae powder; adding water into red algae powder, and performing primary extraction at 70 ℃, wherein the primary extraction time is 10 hours, the mass ratio of the water to the red algae powder is 20;

(b) Hydrolysis: dissolving the red algae polysaccharide crude material obtained in the step (a) in water, adding 30wt% of aqueous hydrogen peroxide, and mixing and stirring at 50 ℃ for 1h to obtain hydrolyzed red algae extracting solution;

(c) And (3) ultrafiltration: and (c) treating the hydrolyzed red algae extracting solution obtained in the step (b) by using an ultrafiltration membrane, concentrating and desalting, wherein the ultrafiltration time is 30min, and the ultrafiltration temperature is 30 ℃ to obtain a hydrolyzed red algae extract.

Preparation example 4

The preparation example provides a composition for repairing skin barrier, and the preparation method of the composition for repairing skin barrier comprises the following steps: the skin barrier repairing composition was prepared by mixing and stirring 7 parts of the hypecoum vulgaris callus culture filtrate of preparation example 1, 3 parts of the tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid of preparation example 2, and 2 parts of the hydrolyzed red algae extract of preparation example 3 at 20 ℃ for 20 min.

The components of the composition for repairing skin barrier in the following examples were prepared by the above-mentioned preparation method, and the other components were commercially available.

Example 1

The present embodiments provide a skin barrier repair composite comprising, in parts by weight: 5 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 3 parts of a centella extract, 4 parts of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 2 parts of a bearberry leaf extract, 1 part of a glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 1 part of an oat protein extract.

Example 2

The present embodiments provide a skin barrier repair composite comprising, in parts by weight: 4 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 4 parts of a centella extract, 3 parts of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 2 parts of an bearberry leaf extract, 1 part of a glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 2 parts of an oat protein extract.

Example 3

The present embodiments provide a skin barrier repair composite comprising, in parts by weight: 7 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 1.5 parts of a centella extract, 1.5 parts of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 2 parts of a bearberry leaf extract, 2 parts of a glycyrrhiza inflate root extract and 2 parts of an oat protein extract.

Example 4

The present embodiments provide a skin barrier repair composite comprising, in parts by weight: 10 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 1 part of a centella extract, 1 part of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 1 part of an bearberry leaf extract, 1 part of a glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 1 part of an oat protein extract.

Example 5

The present embodiments provide a skin barrier repair composite comprising, in parts by weight: the skin barrier repairing composition comprises 1 part of a skin barrier repairing composition, 5 parts of a centella extract, 5 parts of an aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 3 parts of an bearberry leaf extract, 3 parts of a glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 3 parts of an oat protein extract.

Comparative examples 1 to 6

Comparative examples 1-6 provide skin barrier repair compositions, each of which has a formulation as shown in table 1 below (in the table, "4" represents a content of the corresponding component of 4 parts by weight):

TABLE 1

Application example 1

The application embodiment provides a skin care emulsion which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

the preparation method of the skin care emulsion comprises the following steps:

(1) Stirring and mixing the humectant, the thickener, the chelating agent and water at 85 ℃ for 5min to obtain a water phase mixed solution; mixing emollient and emulsifier at 78 deg.C for 10min to obtain oil phase mixture;

(2) Mixing the water phase mixed liquor and the oil phase mixed liquor obtained in the step (1) at 82 ℃ and homogenizing for 7min to obtain homogenized liquor;

(3) Mixing and stirring the homogenized liquid obtained in the step (2), the skin barrier repair compound, the skin conditioner, the antioxidant, the pH regulator and the aromatic at 45 ℃ for 6min to obtain the skin care emulsion.

Application examples 2 to 5

The difference from application example 1 is only that the skin barrier repair complex prepared in example 1 was replaced with the skin barrier repair complexes prepared in examples 2 to 5, respectively, and the remaining components and contents were the same as in application example 1.

Application example 6

The difference from application example 1 is that the skin conditioner is not added with the carrageen crispus extract, the content of the ceramide 3 is increased to 1.4%, and the rest components and content are the same as application example 1.

Application example 7

Compared with the application example 1, the skin conditioner is only different in that the decarboxylated carnosine is not added into the skin conditioner, the content of the ceramide 3 is increased to 1.3%, and the rest components and content are the same as the application example 1.

Application example 8

Compared with the application example 1, the skin conditioner is only different in that no palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is added, the content of palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is increased to 3%, the content of nonapeptide-1 is increased to 3%, and the rest components and content are the same as the application example 1.

Application example 9

Compared with the application example 1, the skin conditioner is only different in that no palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is added, the content of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is increased to 3%, the content of nonapeptide-1 is increased to 3%, and the rest components and content are the same as the application example 1.

Application example 10

Compared with the application example 1, the skin conditioner is only different in that nonapeptide-1 is not added into the skin conditioner, the content of the palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is increased to 3 percent, the content of the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is increased to 3 percent, and the rest components and the content are the same as the application example 1.

Application comparative example 1

Compared with the application example 1, the skin barrier repair compound prepared in the example 1 is not added, the lacking part is supplemented to 100% by water, and the rest components and content are the same as the application example 1.

Application of comparative examples 2 to 7

Compared with the application example 1, the skin barrier repair compound prepared in the example 1 is replaced by the skin barrier repair compounds prepared in the comparative examples 1 to 6, respectively, and the rest components and contents are the same as the application example 1.

Test example 1

Safety performance testing

The skin care emulsions provided in application examples 1 to 10 and the skin care emulsions provided in application comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to a safety performance test by the following method:

(1) Haemolysis test of erythrocytes

Preparation of erythrocyte suspension: selecting healthy rabbit, taking 9mL of blood from heart, adding 1mL of 2% potassium oxalate solution, centrifuging, discarding supernatant, diluting the precipitate to 20mL with 20mmol/L PBS solution, and storing at 4 ℃ for later use. Select samples were diluted with PBS solution to different concentrations, with 5 concentration gradients set for each sample. Adding 200 μ L of the above erythrocyte suspension (final concentration of the sample is controlled to be 5, 10, 20, 50, 100mg/mL respectively) into 10mL of diluent of the sample to be tested, taking distilled water as total blood-dissolving control, taking PBS solution as negative control, mixing gently, incubating at 37 deg.C for 30min, centrifuging at 2000r/min for 10min, collecting supernatant, and testing its absorbance at 560nm with spectrophotometer (A) ₅₆₀ ) Calculating the hemolysis rate according to the following formula;

a standard curve of hemolysis rate vs. sample concentration was plotted, and the sample concentration at which hemolysis occurred in 50% erythrocytes (HD) was calculated ₅₀ )。

(2) Protein denaturation experiments:

diluting the sample to 10g/L with PBS solution, collecting 10mL dilution of the sample to be tested, adding 200 μ L of the erythrocyte suspension, using distilled water as blank control, 1mg/mL Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) solution as positive control, mixing gently, incubating at 37 deg.C for 30min, centrifuging at 2000r/min for 10min, collecting supernatant, and testing absorbance A at 540nm and 575nm with spectrophotometer ₅₄₀ And A ₅₇₅ Calculating a protein Denaturation Index (DI) according to the following formula;

wherein R is ₁ = blank control group a ₅₇₅ Blank control group A ₅₄₀ ，R ₂ = Experimental group A ₅₇₅ Experimental group A ₅₄₀ ，R ₃ = Positive control group A ₅₇₅ Positive control group A ₅₄₀ 。

Evaluating the irritation of the sample to be tested according to the L/D value, wherein the L/D value is HD ₅₀ DI, erythrocyte hemolysis assay irritation grading criteria are shown in Table 2 below:

TABLE 2

L/D	Grading
		>100	Has no irritation
10<L/D≤100	Micro-stimulation property
		1<L/D≤10	Mild irritation
0.1<L/D≤1	Moderate irritation

The results of the above-described erythrocyte hemolysis test and protein denaturation test are shown in the following Table 3:

TABLE 3

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As can be seen from the safety performance test, the skin care emulsion prepared by the application examples 1-10 of the invention is mild and non-irritant; the skin care emulsion prepared by the invention has the sample concentration HD when 50% of red blood cells are subjected to hemolysis ₅₀ Over 20000mg/L, is more than HD of the skin care emulsion prepared by application of comparative examples 1-7 ₅₀ Meanwhile, the protein denaturation index DI is below 0.75 percent and is also obviously smaller than the skin care emulsion prepared by applying the comparative examples 1-7, which shows that the skin care emulsion can obviously reduce toxic and side effects and irritation and is safer and more reliable.

Test example 2

The skin care emulsions provided in application examples 1 to 10 and application comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to a whitening effect test by the following method:

(1) Tyrosinase activity inhibition assay

At 3X 10 ⁴ Cell density per cell/well B16 melanoma cells (melanoma cells) were transferred to 96-well plates in an incubator at 37 ℃ using a medium supplemented with 10% fetal bovineSerum, 1% antifungal antibiotic in DMEM medium for 24h. After washing the cells with 100. Mu.L of 66mM phosphate buffer pH 6.8, 100. Mu.L of 1% Triton X-100-containing PBS was added to each well, followed by dissolution for 30min with a 37 ℃ mixer. The supernatant 50. Mu.L was transferred to wells of a new plate, and 50. Mu.L of each test sample dissolved in PBS was added to the experimental group, while only 50. Mu.L of PBS was added to the control group. A5 mM Levodopa (Levodopa, L-DOPA) solution (50. Mu.L) was rapidly added between experimental groups in such a manner that no temporal difference was caused, and the absorbance (475 nm) was measured using a Plate Reader (Plate Reader), which was taken as the amount of the initial DOPAchrome (DOPACHROM).

Then, the reaction system was stirred for 45min with a mixer at 37 ℃ and the absorbance (475 nm) was measured again as the final absorbance of the reaction system, and the amount of DOPA chrome after storage was measured, thereby determining how much inhibition of tyrosinase activity was caused, and based on the obtained measurement values, the inhibition rate of tyrosinase by each experimental group to which the sample to be tested was added was calculated with the tyrosinase activity of the control group being set to 1.

(2) Experiment for inhibiting melanin synthesis

B16 melanoma cells were plated at 1X 10 ⁵ one/mL of the cells were seeded in 96-well plates at 90. Mu.L/well in CO ₂ After incubation in the incubator for 24 hours, the sample solution was added to each well. A blank control group of medium and cells was set up simultaneously.

After incubating the plates in the incubator for 72 hours, the supernatant was discarded, washed twice with PBS (phosphate buffered saline), and then digested by adding 0.5mL of trypsinized cells per well for 3min and 2mL of maintenance medium per well. After mixing, 0.5mL of each concentration was taken out and counted. Centrifuging the rest cell suspension at 2500r/min for 5min, discarding supernatant, adding NaOH solution into the precipitate, heating to dissolve melanin, and measuring absorbance at 490nm under enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.

The formula for calculating the melanin synthesis inhibition (%) of the sample is shown as follows:

wherein, A ₁ Is the absorbance value of the drug well, P ₁ Cell density of drug well, A ₂ Absorbance values for control wells; p is ₂ As a control well cell density, I' is the melanin synthesis inhibition (%) of the corresponding sample;

(3) Light aging resistance test

The oxidative stress test of cuticle keratinocyte under blue light comprises the following specific test methods: oxidizing organotypic skin model with blue light radiation, pre-treating with a test sample anti-photoaging composition and then irradiating with blue light at a blue light intensity of 15J/cm ² . Since moderate to high doses of ROS (reactive oxygen species) induce apoptosis and even cause necrosis of cells through oxidative stress of the cells, measuring the accumulation of ROS in epidermal keratinocytes can reflect the photoaging resistance of the test samples.

(4) Anti-glycation assay

85 female volunteers between 18-50 years of age were selected, and each test sample was applied to the face twice daily for 30 consecutive days without any other product during the test period. The skin test is carried out by using a German MAP580 skin tester:

the specific test results are shown in table 4:

TABLE 4

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The test data in table 4 show that the skin care lotion provided by the invention has a tyrosinase inhibition rate of more than 70%, a melanin synthesis inhibition rate of more than 60%, an ROS epidermal keratinocyte accumulation amount of less than 15%, and a glycation inhibition rate of more than 65%. The skin care emulsion has reasonable compatibility of components, has a synergistic effect, can effectively inhibit melanin from transferring to keratinocytes, inhibits melanin deposition, promotes metabolism of skin, and further reduces pigmentation; can effectively remove free radicals, inhibit the generation of human epidermal keratinocytes ROS under the blue light condition, further protect skin cells from being damaged by the irradiation of the blue light, and inhibit saccharification reaction. Therefore, the whitening essence provided by the invention can realize whitening effect from multiple aspects and make the skin healthy and fair.

Test example 3

The skin care emulsions provided in application examples 1 to 10 and application comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to a radical scavenging test by the following method:

(1) Determination of superoxide anion radical scavenging ability

Taking 4.5mL of 0.05mol/L Tris-HCl buffer solution with the pH value of 8.2, preheating for 20min in a water bath kettle at 25 ℃, then respectively adding the test samples, then adding 0.4mL of 25mmol/L pyrogallol solution, uniformly mixing, reacting for 5min in a water bath at 25 ℃, and adding 1.0mL of 8mol/L HCl to terminate the reaction.

Absorbance values were measured at 299nm with Tris-HCl buffer as a reference. The blank was replaced with 1mL of distilled water and the clearance was calculated. Clearance formula (D) (%) = [1- (a) ₄ /A ₃ )]X 100%; in the formula A ₃ Absorbance values for the blank; a. The ₄ Is the absorbance value of the sample;

(2) Measurement of hydroxyl radical scavenging ability

Sequentially adding 2mmol/L FeSO into a 25mL colorimetric tube ₄ 3mL，1mmol/L H ₂ O ₂ 3mL, shaking, adding 3mL of salicylic acid 6mmol/L, shaking, heating in 37 deg.C water bath for 15min, taking out, and measuring absorbance A _o . Then 100 mg. L are added ^-1 Shaking the sample to be measured, heating in water bath for 15min, taking out and measuring its absorbance A _x . Taking another colorimetric cylinder, adding above liquids in sequence, adding no salicylic acid, shaking, heating in water bath for 15min, and measuring value A _xo . Wherein the formula for calculating the hydroxyl radical clearance rate is as follows: hydroxyl radical clearance (%) = a ₀ -(A _x -A _x0 )/A ₀ X 100%; in the formula A ₀ Light absorption for blank control systemA value of the metric; a. The _x Adding the absorbance value of a sample system to be detected; a. The _x0 Without adding a color-developing agent H ₂ O ₂ Absorbance value of solution background.

The specific test results are shown in table 5:

TABLE 5

The test data in table 5 show that the skin care lotion provided by the invention has a superoxide anion free radical scavenging rate of above 63% and a hydroxyl free radical scavenging rate inhibiting rate of above 62%, and has good free radical scavenging effect and antioxidant effect. Because the reason for the final formation of the color spots is the result of the oxidation of free radicals in vivo, when the activity of antioxidant enzymes of a human body is reduced and the invasion of the free radicals cannot be resisted in time, the color spots are formed on the face, and the skin care lotion can well remove and resist the invasion of the free radicals, thereby slowing down the process of catalyzing lipid peroxidation and decomposing MDA by catalase, and fundamentally solving the problem of aging and darkness of the skin.

Test example 4

Evaluation of whitening and anti-aging effects

85 female volunteers aged 18-50 years were selected and used on the face with the skin care lotions provided in application examples 1-10 and application comparative examples 1-7, respectively, 1 time each day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks.

(1) The skin melanin content change of the skin before and after the application of the mask composition was evaluated by a skin red melanin tester (Hexameter MX 18). The measurement range of the used instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measurement value, the higher the melanin content in the skin is. The amount of melanin reduction on the skin of the front and back of a subject using the mask composition prepared according to the present invention;

(2) VISIA skin assay evaluation: after the face of the tested volunteer is cleaned, the face of the tested volunteer is shot by using a VISIA facial image analyzer, and the detection data of facial pigmented spots, textures and wrinkles are analyzed, wherein the higher the numerical value is, the more obvious the phenomenon of the pigmented spots and the textures are represented. After the treatment period, the information obtained by the VISIA facial image analyzer is compared with the information before treatment, the improvement condition of facial pigment spots, textures and wrinkles of the tested volunteers is analyzed, the statistical data are shown in the table 8, p is less than 0.02, and the statistical significance is achieved.

(3) The brightening effect is as follows: the skin color difference tester (the probe CL400 and the multi-probe skin test system MPA 10) is used for respectively testing the facial skin color conditions of the tested volunteers before and after treatment and calculating the ITA. The test conditions are a constant temperature and humidity environment with the temperature of 22 ℃ and the humidity of 50 percent.

The specific test results are shown in table 6:

TABLE 6

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As can be seen from the test data in table 6, by comparing the VISIA test results before and after treatment, no adverse reaction cases occurred during the treatment period using the skin care emulsions provided in application examples 1 to 10, the total skin feel was better and fresh, the melanin reduction of the subject was significant, the skin spots and the texture of the tested volunteers were significantly improved, the skin color brightening effect was significant, and the efficacy evaluation was effective. The skin care emulsion disclosed by the invention can effectively promote the expression of skin collagen and elastin, and also has the effects of slowing down skin aging, improving color spots, whitening and brightening skin and reducing wrinkles.

The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above examples of skin barrier repair complexes, skin care emulsions and methods of making the same, but the present invention is not limited to the above detailed methods, i.e. it is not meant that the present invention must rely on the above detailed methods to be practiced. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims

1. A skin barrier repair composite, comprising in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of a composition for repairing skin barriers, 1-5 parts of centella extract, 1-5 parts of aloe barbadensis leaf extract, 0.1-3 parts of bearberry leaf extract, 0.1-3 parts of glycyrrhiza inflata root extract and 0.1-3 parts of oat protein extract;

the composition for repairing skin barrier comprises hypecoum vulgare callus culture filtrate, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid and hydrolyzed red algae extract in a mass ratio of (3-9) to (2-5) to (1-3);

the hydrolyzed red algae extract is Durvillea Li Zao extract of pure sea area;

the preparation method of the hypsizygus marmoreus callus culture filtrate comprises the following steps:

(2) Suspension culture of callus particles: inoculating the callus obtained in the step (1) into an MS culture medium, and performing shake culture in a shake culture box at a rotating speed of 100r/min, wherein the temperature of the shake culture is 20 ℃, and the time of the shake culture is 14 days, so as to obtain a proliferation callus;

(4) Separation: filtering the hypecoum vulgare callus culture obtained in the step (3) through gauze of 100 meshes, and then performing vacuum drying at 25 ℃ to obtain fennel callus culture filtrate;

the preparation method of the hydrolyzed red algae extract comprises the following steps:

2. A skin care emulsion comprising the skin barrier repair complex of claim 1.

3. The skin care emulsion of claim 2, wherein the skin care emulsion comprises, by mass:

1-10% of the skin barrier repair complex of claim 1, 5-20% of a skin conditioner, 10-30% of a humectant, 1-10% of an emollient, and 0.3-1.5% of an emulsifier, with the balance being water.

4. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises any one of or a combination of at least two of Chondrus crispus extract, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin, hyaluronan silanol, niacinamide, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, or nonapeptide-1.

5. The skin care emulsion of claim 4 wherein the hyaluronan silanol is comprised of a macromolecular hyaluronic acid and a silanetriol.

6. The skin care emulsion of claim 5, wherein the mass ratio of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid to the silanetriol is (0.5-2): 1.

7. A skin care emulsion according to claim 5 wherein the molecular weight of the macromolecular hyaluronic acid is between 150 and 180 million daltons.

8. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, wherein the moisturizer comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, glycerin, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, saccharide isomerate, 1,2-hexanediol, butanediol, panthenol, xylitol, anhydroxylitol, or xylitol-based glucoside.

9. The skin care emulsion of claim 8, wherein the sodium hyaluronate has a molecular weight of 80 to 100 kilodaltons.

10. The skin care emulsion of claim 8, wherein the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate has a molecular weight of 20 to 40 ten thousand daltons.

11. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, wherein the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of squalane, shea butter, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, or dimethiconol.

12. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, wherein the emulsifier comprises a C20-22 alcohol and/or a C20-22 alcohol phosphate.

13. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, further comprising 0.5-2% of an antioxidant, based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

14. The skin care emulsion of claim 13, wherein the antioxidant comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and/or tocopherol acetate.

15. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, further comprising 0.1-2% of a thickener based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

16. The skin care emulsion of claim 15, wherein the thickener comprises any one or a combination of at least two of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80, hydrolyzed sclerosant, or carbomer.

17. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, further comprising 0.05-0.5% of a pH regulator, based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

18. The skin care emulsion of claim 17, wherein the pH adjusting agent is triethanolamine.

19. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, further comprising from 0.02 to 0.1% of a chelating agent, based on 100% of the total weight of the skin care emulsion.

20. The skin care emulsion of claim 19, wherein the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

21. The skin care emulsion of claim 3, further comprising 0.01-0.1% of a fragrance, based on 100% of the total mass of the skin care emulsion.

22. The skin care emulsion of claim 21, wherein the fragrance is a perfume.

23. A method of preparing a skin care emulsion according to any of claims 3 to 12 comprising the steps of:

(1) Mixing the humectant and water to obtain a water-phase mixed solution; mixing an emollient and an emulsifier in an oil phase to obtain an oil phase mixed solution;

(3) Mixing and stirring the homogenized liquid obtained in the step (2), the skin barrier repair compound as claimed in claim 1 and the skin conditioner to obtain the skin care emulsion.