CN111135112A

CN111135112A - Wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111135112A
Application number: CN202010085207.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张传旋
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2020-02-10
Filing date: 2020-02-10
Publication date: 2020-05-12

Abstract

The invention provides a wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition and application thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics, wherein the composition comprises: growth factors, including recombinant human epidermal growth factor; a humectant comprising a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in dispersion in a protective colloid; active peptide compositions comprising acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8; antioxidants including astaxanthin and lycopene in the form of lipid nanocapsules. The composition provided by the invention can stimulate cell activity, delay protein loss, promote protein content increase, repair skin injury, retain water and replenish water, reduce skin water dispersion amount, control water and oil balance, increase skin elasticity, relieve skin photoaging, has high transdermal efficiency and absorption speed, high retention and effective utilization rate and good storage stability, and can inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity; the composition can be used in cosmetics, wound healing and/or scar reduction materials.

Description

Wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin-care composition and application thereof.

Background

Skin is a natural barrier between the external environment and the body, protecting the organs in the body from temperature and humidity variations, and the external environment, such as ultraviolet rays and pollutants, and the human skin is composed of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue. However, the protective action of the skin is limited, and when the external influence exceeds a certain degree, it may be affected by various factors such as genetics, environment, psychosocial, etc. to weaken its function and show the symptoms of aging. Skin aging is a gradual physiological process, the barrier function of the skin is gradually impaired, resulting in loss of water, drying the skin, and increasing the susceptibility of the skin to external damage, and the elastic fibers of the skin become gradually thicker, with consequent wrinkles and deepening.

In order to keep a good appearance, people keep keen attention on skin aging resistance, and related products are diversified. With the development of science and technology, anti-aging cosmetics become an indispensable article for people. The products in the market are various in types, such as moisturizing water, sunscreen cream and the like, exogenous active substances, such as sunscreen agents, free radical scavengers, humectants and the like, are mostly added, so that the effect of partially delaying skin aging is achieved, but most of the effects are single, and the effect is not ideal. The more active methods for protecting the skin are: fundamentally improving the natural biological activity of skin cells and playing a synergistic role with the natural renewal process of the skin. Therefore, there is a need for a skin care product with comprehensive functions and capable of improving the skin as a whole, and the invention achieves the beneficial effects of complementing each other, delaying wrinkles and even reducing the depth of existing wrinkles by adding a composition capable of fundamentally delaying skin aging and an ingredient with a remarkable effect to the cosmetic in the form of the composition.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a skin-repairing cream which can stimulate cell activity, promote the increase of protein content in skin and repair skin injury; the water can be preserved and supplemented, the water dispersion loss of the skin is reduced, and the water-oil balance is controlled; the protein loss is delayed, the skin elasticity is increased, and the skin photoaging is relieved; the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition has high transdermal efficiency and absorption speed, high retention and effective utilization rate and good storage stability, and shows good matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitory activity.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for realizing the purpose is as follows:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition comprising:

at least one growth factor, including recombinant human epidermal growth factor;

at least one humectant comprising a compound having a molecular weight of 1 × 10⁴-5×10⁵Da of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid present in dispersion in a protective colloid;

active peptide compositions comprising acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8; and the number of the first and second groups,

antioxidants including astaxanthin and lycopene; the antioxidant is in the form of lipid nanocapsules.

The components in the composition synergistically play a beneficial role, and can promote the increase of collagen and elastin in skin, activate immunocompetent cells and promote the repair of skin injury; the moisture content of the skin can be increased, the water can be preserved, the water can be supplemented, the water dispersion loss of the skin can be effectively reduced, and the water-oil balance of the skin can be controlled; the skin care product has good inhibitory activity on matrix metalloproteinase-1, delays the loss of protein in the skin, increases the skin elasticity, reduces the skin roughness, relieves the skin photoaging, eliminates free radicals, has high transdermal efficiency and absorption speed, high retention and effective utilization rate in the skin, small stress response and good storage stability, and achieves the purposes of improving the skin, removing and preventing wrinkles and improving the antioxidant and anti-aging effects from inside to outside.

For the invention, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is obtained by degrading a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid solution with initial concentration of 1-3g/L serving as a raw material for 4-6h in an ultrasonic environment with frequency of 50-65kHz, temperature of 15-30 ℃ and pH value of 5-9.

The protective colloid is alginate/β -glucan hydrogel, which is obtained by adding alginate and β -glucan into sterile water containing propylene glycol, stirring at 65-85 ℃ to form uniformly mixed suspension, and removing bubbles, wherein the weight ratio of the alginate to β -glucan, the propylene glycol and the sterile water is 1:0.5-1.5:2-4:4-8, the alginate and β -glucan form a hydrogel material, and the hydrogel material is combined with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, has a good spreading effect under the action of shearing force, can permeate into the stratum corneum of skin, and achieves the effects of nutrition restoration, moisture preservation and support.

For the purposes of the present invention, the dispersion is formed under the conditions: stirring and mixing the mixture in a water bath with the temperature of 60-70 ℃ at the speed of 2000-8000r/min for 10-30 min. Preferably, the weight ratio of the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the protective colloid is 0.5: 1.8-3. The dispersion can rapidly penetrate into skin, soften stratum corneum, reduce resistance of larger molecules (such as active peptide, growth factor, etc.) in the process of passing through stratum corneum, etc., and effectively improve transdermal efficiency and absorption speed of the composition.

In a more preferred embodiment, the gel system of the dispersion is also dispersed with 0.015-0.05 wt% perillaseed and 0.05-0.1 wt% potassium guaiacolsulfonate. The hyaluronic acid and the alginate form a link in the high-speed formation of the dispersion, and the hyaluronic acid and the alginate can be permeated into the skin along with the coating and spreading process, can be retained in the horny layer and combined with the hydroxy fatty acid in the horny layer, improve the potential difference between water and oil, reduce the short-time irritation, improve the water-oil balance, particularly promote the absorption of the hyaluronic acid and reduce the water dispersion amount of the skin, enhance the adaptability to oily skin and expand the range of applicable people; more surprisingly, the synergistic gain of the two is also shown in the inhibition effect on the activity of the matrix metalloproteinase-1, the specific mechanism is not clear, but the inhibition effect can relieve the excessive degradation of collagen and elastin in the skin and achieve the effects of relieving the skin photoaging and delaying the aging.

For the present invention, the humectant further comprises a polymer having a molecular weight of not less than 1X 10⁶A high molecular weight hyaluronic acid of Da; the weight ratio of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is 1: 0.5-2. PolymerThe hyaluronic acid can form a water-retaining and water-locking layer on the surface of the skin, protect the skin from external damage, slow down wrinkle hyperplasia, increase the moisture content of the skin, improve the skin state and repair the appearance after the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is absorbed through the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, an effective amount of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 is defined as a weight ratio of 1:1 to 2.5. The acetyl hexapeptide-3 can prevent muscle contraction and smooth fine wrinkles, the acetyl hexapeptide-8 can resist skin sagging and promote skin compaction, and the two cooperate to achieve the effects of removing and preventing wrinkles.

For the invention, the lipid nanocapsule is an O/W type nano-structure prepared by a high-pressure homogenization method; the operating conditions of the high-pressure homogenization method are as follows: the pressure is 600-800bar and the cycle time is 3-4 times.

For the present invention, the lipid nanocapsule has an average particle diameter of 75 to 95nm, a polydispersity index of 0.1 to 0.2, and a Zeta potential of-32.6 to-36.5 mV. The nanocapsules have small particle size, uniform distribution and good stability.

For the present invention, the lipid nanocapsule contains 2-15 wt% of an oxidizing agent, 4-17 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin and 8-20 wt% of dipropylene glycol; the weight ratio of astaxanthin to lycopene in the oxidant is 1: 0.5-1.5. The nanocapsule can increase the storage stability of the oxidant in the composition, promote the osmotic absorption of the oxidant, and slowly release the oxidant along with the absorption of cells, so that the composition can be prevented from directly contacting with skin at a high concentration, the skin can be prevented from generating stress reactions such as allergy, red swelling and the like, and the retention amount and the effective utilization rate of the oxidant in the skin can be increased.

The invention also aims to provide the application of the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging skin care composition in cosmetics, wherein the cosmetics have the functions of moisturizing, wrinkle-removing and anti-wrinkling, antioxidation, anti-aging or/and skin elasticity improvement. The cosmetic can increase skin elasticity, promote skin cell metabolism, rapidly repair damaged skin, reduce facial skin fine lines, relieve skin sagging and flabbiness, and relieve skin photoaging, has the characteristics of light texture and easy absorption, and has multiple effects of removing wrinkles, resisting aging, repairing and the like.

For the invention, the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition is contained in the cosmetic in an amount of 0.3-15 wt%.

The invention also aims to provide application of the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition in materials for wound surface recovery or/and scar reduction. Preferably, the composition is present in the material in an amount of 10 to 45 wt%. The composition has remarkable anti-chapping effect through synergistic effect, helps to form collagen in dermis, promotes cell growth and improves cell activity, can form protective film locally, repairs damaged cells, shortens wound healing time, and reduces scar formation.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the invention increases the transdermal efficiency and the storage stability of the effective components in various forms such as liposome, nanocapsule and the like, the effective components in the composition play a role in a synergistic way, a water-retaining and water-locking layer is formed on the surface of the skin, the horny layer is softened, the metabolism of skin cells can be promoted from the inside of the skin, the cells are activated to promote the increase of protein content, the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1 is inhibited, the photoaging of the skin is relieved, the wrinkles and the wrinkles are removed, the skin state is improved, and the appearance is repaired; it can be used in cosmetics for moisturizing, removing and preventing wrinkle, resisting oxidation and aging, and/or improving skin elasticity; the material for wound surface recovery or/and scar reduction can repair damaged cells, shorten the wound healing time, reduce scar formation and has obvious anti-chap effect.

The invention adopts the technical scheme to provide the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin-care composition and the application thereof, makes up the defects of the prior art, and has reasonable design and convenient operation.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing the effect of a composition on the change in moisture content and water loss of the stratum corneum of the skin, A-moisture content, B-moisture loss rate;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the variation of the wrinkle visibility coefficient and occupancy coefficient reduction rate of the composition for skin, A-wrinkle visibility coefficient reduction rate and B-occupancy coefficient reduction rate;

fig. 3 is a diagram showing sensory evaluation results of three skin creams having a wrinkle-removing function.

Detailed Description

The technical solution of the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the following detailed description and the accompanying drawings:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition comprising: at least one growth factor, including recombinant human epidermal growth factor; at least one humectant comprising a compound having a molecular weight of 1 × 10⁴-5×10⁵Da of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid present in dispersion in a protective colloid; an active peptide composition comprising effective amounts of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8; antioxidants including astaxanthin and lycopene; the antioxidant is in the form of lipid nanocapsules.

For the purposes of the present invention, the dispersion is formed under the conditions: stirring and mixing in water bath at 60-70 deg.C at 8000r/min of 2000-; preferably, the weight ratio of the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the protective colloid is 0.5: 1.8-3. The dispersion can rapidly penetrate into skin, soften stratum corneum, reduce resistance of larger molecules (such as active peptide, growth factor, etc.) in the process of passing through stratum corneum, etc., and effectively improve transdermal efficiency and absorption speed of the composition.

For the present invention, the humectant further comprises a polymer having a molecular weight of not less than 1X 10⁶A high molecular weight hyaluronic acid of Da; the weight ratio of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is 1: 0.5-2. The high molecular weight hyaluronic acid can form a water-retaining and water-locking layer on the surface of the skin, protect the skin from external damage, slow down wrinkle hyperplasia, increase the moisture content of the skin, improve the skin state and repair the appearance after the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is absorbed through the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, active peptide compositions may also include 0-30 wt% of a combination of functional polypeptides; examples of combinations of the above functional polypeptides are: repair polypeptide combinations including, but not limited to, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and tripeptide-1-copper; supplemental collagen polypeptide combinations including, but not limited to, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; wrinkle-removing polypeptide combinations including, but not limited to, snake venom-like peptides, melittin; skin lightening polypeptide combinations including, but not limited to, nonapeptide-1, carnosine, tetrapeptide-30.

For the present invention, the oil phase of the lipid nanocapsule comprises an oxidizing agent, hydrogenated lecithin and dipropylene glycol; the oil phase forms a uniform solution under the condition of water bath at 65-75 ℃.

For the present invention, the aqueous phase of the lipid nanocapsule comprises glycerol and water in a weight ratio of 2-4: 1. In a more preferable embodiment, the water phase also comprises 0.1-0.5 wt% of accelerant, wherein the accelerant comprises berberine hydrochloride and tracheloside with the weight ratio of 1:0.5-1.5, the berberine hydrochloride and the tracheloside are embedded between the nano-capsule bimolecular layers under the environment of mutual exclusion of mechanical energy and water and oil, the asymmetry of the bimolecular layers is reduced, the stability of the nano-capsule is increased, and more unexpectedly, the berberine hydrochloride and the tracheloside are retained in the skin and exert a synergistic effect with other substances of the composition, so that the muscle contraction inhibition rate of the composition within 3h before absorption is increased by 1.3-1.8 times, the effective time is prolonged by 1.2-1.6 times, the effect is fast, the effect presentation time is long, and the composition has better effects of smoothing fine wrinkles and compacting the skin; also shows the efficacy of inhibiting hyaluronidase in vitro, can inhibit the release of allergic medium, and has good characteristics of antianaphylaxis, anaphylaxis repair and applicable to sensitive skin.

For the invention, the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition at least comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of recombinant human epidermal growth factor, 5-10 parts of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid dispersoid, 0.5-3 parts of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 0.1-5 parts of effective amount of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 composition and 1-5 parts of astaxanthin and lycopene-containing lipid nanocapsule. The composition can effectively avoid side effects such as irritation and allergy to skin, and can effectively reduce water dispersion amount of skin, control water and oil balance of skin, and expand applicable crowd range.

For the invention, the preparation method of the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition comprises the following steps: selecting the raw materials according to the parts by weight, mixing, and then homogenizing in an environment with the pressure of 300-600bar and the temperature of 20-55 ℃ for 2-3 times to obtain the product.

For the present invention, the cosmetic also comprises 0.1-5 wt% of a complex emulsion of coenzyme Q10 and lipoic acid; the composite emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 7-15% of caprylic capric acid glyceride, 4-9% of glyceryl monostearate, 103-10% of coenzyme Q, 0.5-5% of lipoic acid and the balance of deionized water.

Preferably, the preparation method of the composite emulsion comprises the following steps: putting glyceryl monostearate and caprylic capric acid glyceride into a water bath at 60-75 ℃, stirring uniformly, adding coenzyme Q10 and lipoic acid, keeping the temperature and stirring until the coenzyme Q10 and the lipoic acid are completely dissolved, adding the rest of deionized water, keeping the temperature, and stirring fully until the mixture is uniformly mixed to obtain the composite emulsion.

For the present invention, the cosmetic is selected from one or more of a water aqua, an emulsion, a face cream, an eye cream, a mask liquid, a mask cream, a BB cream, an essence lotion, a sun cream, a sunscreen lotion, an acne lotion, an essential oil, a shampoo, a moisturizer, a toner, a astringent and a smoothing toner.

For the purposes of the present invention, the cosmetic may also include suitable humectants, thickeners, preservatives, anti-sensitivity agents, pH regulators, anti-aging agents. Specific examples include, but are not limited to: humectant such as one or more of polyalcohol, sodium hyaluronate, ceramide, trehalose, polysorbate-30, and amino acid humectant; thickening agents such as one or more of carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum; preservatives such as 1, 2-hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin; anti-allergic agent such as plant extracts of herba Avenae Fatuae kernel, herba Dendrobii, Tremella, folium Ginkgo, etc.; pH regulator such as one or more of citric acid and its sodium salt, lactic acid and its sodium salt, triethanolamine, arginine, etc.; anti-aging agent such as SOD, ceramide, ascorbic acid, and vitamin A/E.

The purpose of the invention is also to provide the application of the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition in materials for wound surface recovery or/and scar reduction. Preferably, the composition is present in the material in an amount of 10 to 45 wt%. The composition has remarkable anti-chapping effect through synergistic effect, helps to form collagen in dermis, promotes cell growth and improves cell activity, can form protective film locally, repairs damaged cells, shortens wound healing time, and reduces scar formation.

It is to be understood that the foregoing description is to be considered illustrative or exemplary and not restrictive, and that changes and modifications may be made by those skilled in the art within the scope and spirit of the appended claims. In particular, the present invention covers other embodiments having any combination of features from the different embodiments described above and below, without the scope of the invention being limited to the specific examples below.

Example 1:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition comprising: 0.5 part of recombinant human epidermal growth factor, 10 parts of dispersion of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 2 parts of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 1 part of effective amount of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 composition and 1.5 parts of lipid nanocapsule containing astaxanthin and lycopene.

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition comprises the following steps:

(1) using high molecular weight hyaluronic acid solution with initial concentration of 2g/L as raw material, and degrading for 6h in ultrasonic environment with frequency of 60kHz, temperature of 25 ℃ and pH value of 7.5 to obtain hyaluronic acid solution with molecular weight of 17 × 10⁴Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of (a);

(2) adding alginate and β -dextran into propylene glycol-containing sterile water, stirring at 75 deg.C to form a uniformly mixed suspension, and removing bubbles to obtain alginate/β -dextran hydrogel, wherein the weight ratio of the alginate to β -dextran, propylene glycol and sterile water is 1:1.2:2.3: 7.5;

(3) taking low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and hydrogel according to a weight ratio of 0.5:2, adding 0.035 wt% perillartine and 0.065 wt% potassium guaiacolsulfonate, stirring and mixing for 30min at a speed of 6000r/mi in a water bath with a temperature of 70 ℃ to obtain a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid dispersion;

(4) taking high molecular weight hyaluronic acid as another humectant component according to the weight ratio of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of 1: 1;

(5) mixing acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 according to the weight ratio of 1:1.5 to obtain an active peptide composition;

(6) mixing an oxidant, hydrogenated lecithin and dipropylene glycol, stirring at a water bath condition of 75 ℃ to form a uniform solution to obtain an oil phase, uniformly mixing glycerol and water according to a weight ratio of 3:1 to form a water phase, sending the oil phase into the water phase, and circularly homogenizing for 3 times under a pressure of 800bar to obtain a lipid nanocapsule, wherein the lipid nanocapsule contains 6.5 wt% of the oxidant, 12 wt% of the hydrogenated lecithin and 14 wt% of dipropylene glycol, the weight ratio of astaxanthin to lycopene in the oxidant is 1:1, the average particle size of the obtained lipid nanocapsule is 83.7nm, the polydispersity index is 0.12, and the Zeta potential is-33.4 mV;

(7) selecting the raw materials according to the parts by weight, mixing, and then homogenizing in an environment with the pressure of 400bar and the temperature of 25 ℃ for 2 times of circulation to obtain the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition.

Example 2:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition comprising: 1.5 parts of recombinant human epidermal growth factor, 8 parts of dispersion of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 1.5 parts of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, 1.5 parts of effective amount of acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 composition, 0.3 part of carnosine, 70.2 parts of palmitoyl tetrapeptide and 3.5 parts of lipid nanocapsule containing astaxanthin and lycopene.

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition is different from the steps in the example 1 in that:

step (1) taking a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid solution with the initial concentration of 2.5g/L as a raw material, and performing ultrasonic degradation for 4.5 hours to obtain a hyaluronic acid solution with the molecular weight of 23 multiplied by 10⁴Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of (a);

taking low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid and hydrogel according to the weight ratio of 0.5:2.5, and adding 0.05 wt% of perillaseed and 0.09 wt% of potassium guaiacolsulfonate to prepare a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid dispersion;

mixing acetyl hexapeptide-3 and acetyl hexapeptide-8 according to the weight ratio of 1:2, adding carnosine and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 according to the weight parts, and uniformly mixing to obtain an active peptide composition;

and (6) sending the oil phase into the water phase, and circularly homogenizing for 3 times under the pressure of 750bar to obtain the lipid nanocapsule, wherein the lipid nanocapsule contains 5 wt% of an oxidant, 15 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin and 10 wt% of dipropylene glycol, the weight ratio of astaxanthin to lycopene in the oxidant is 1:1.5, the average particle size of the obtained lipid nanocapsule is 78.9nm, the polydispersity index is 0.11, and the Zeta potential is-34.7 mV.

Example 3:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition, wherein the raw materials and the parts by weight thereof are the same as in example 1.

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition optimizes the steps in the embodiment 3, and the specific optimization measures are as follows:

step (6) mixing glycerol and water uniformly according to the weight ratio of 3:1, adding 0.15 wt% of accelerant to form a water phase, and preparing the lipid nanocapsule, wherein the accelerant comprises berberine hydrochloride and trachelospermin according to the weight ratio of 1:0.8, the average particle size of the obtained lipid nanocapsule is 79.3nm, the polydispersity index is 0.105, and the Zeta potential is-34.1 mV;

the other steps are the same as those in the example 1, and the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging skin care composition is prepared.

Example 4:

the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin cream comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

TABLE 1 wrinkle-dispelling antiaging skin cream raw material table

Note: the raw materials can be purchased except for self-made raw materials.

A wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin cream is prepared by the following steps: dissolving the phase A component at 75 ℃, adding the phase B component, keeping the temperature at 2000r/min, homogenizing for 15min, stirring, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the phase C component and the phase D component, stirring uniformly, and degassing to obtain the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care cream.

Example 5:

the wrinkle-removing anti-aging mask liquid comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 1.5 wt% of wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition obtained in example 3, 3 wt% of butanediol, 0.5 wt% of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 10 wt% of glycerol, 0.1 wt% of tremella polysaccharide, 0.05 wt% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.3 wt% of carbomer and the balance of deionized water. The raw materials can be purchased except for self-made raw materials.

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing anti-aging mask liquid comprises the following steps: and (3) fully and uniformly mixing the raw materials to obtain the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging mask liquid.

Comparative example 1:

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition is different from that of the example 1 only in that:

in the step (3), only 0.035 wt% of perillartine is added, and no guaiacol potassium sulfonate is added.

Comparative example 2:

in the step (3), only 0.065 wt% of potassium guaiacolsulfonate is added, and perilla scape is not added.

Comparative example 3:

the perillartine and the potassium guaiacolsulfonate are not added in the step (3).

Comparative example 4:

a wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition, wherein the raw materials and the parts by weight thereof are the same as in example 3.

The preparation method of the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition is different from that of the example 3 only in that:

in the step (6), the accelerant is berberine hydrochloride without adding trachelospermin.

Comparative example 5:

in the step (6), the accelerant is trachelospermin without berberine hydrochloride.

Test example 1:

determination of moisture content and moisture loss in the stratum corneum

The test method comprises the following steps: selecting a group of persons with normal healthy skin and no cosmetic allergy history, wherein the persons are 35-60 years old, 20 men and 40 women need to have visible fine lines or wrinkles at the canthus, and no nevus, acne and other interference factors influencing the test result exist. The subjects were held half a day, morning and evening, with the compositions for 10 weeks, and were not co-administered with other wrinkle-removing skin care products during the test period. The indoor temperature is 25 +/-1 ℃ during the test; and (3) cleaning the face with clean water under the environment with the humidity of 50 +/-5%, wherein the face cleaning time of each person is the same, wiping the face water by using a paper towel without a fluorescent agent, and smearing 2g of a corresponding sample. The test was performed 10min after the sample was used.

The determination method comprises the following steps: the test samples were example 1 and comparative examples 1,2 and 3, and the skin moisture loss value was measured using a transdermal moisture loss measuring instrument and the moisture content of the cheek skin was measured using a digital skin moisture measuring instrument, using no sample applied as a blank. After using corresponding samples for 0h, 2h, 4h and 6h, testing the moisture content and the moisture loss rate of the cheek skin, and measuring for 3 times to obtain an average value. The results are shown in FIG. 1.

FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the effect of a composition on the change in moisture content and rate of water loss from the stratum corneum of the skin, A-moisture content, B-rate of water loss. As can be seen from the graph A, the water content of the skin can be increased in each group compared with the blank group, and the difference is not obvious; as can be seen from FIG. B, example 1 significantly reduced the water dispersion loss, which was comparable to comparative example 2, while comparative examples 1 and 3 did not differ significantly, and the water dispersion loss was greatest except for the blank group; the composition can retain water and supplement water, and achieves the effects of nutrition restoration and moisture retention support; meanwhile, the perillartine and the potassium guaiacolsulfonate in the example 1 can be added to cooperate with other components to realize synergism, so that the water dispersion amount of the skin is reduced, the water-oil balance is improved, the generation of dry wrinkles of the skin is reduced, the adaptability of oily skin is enhanced, and the range of applicable people is expanded.

Test example 2:

wrinkle visibility coefficient and occupancy coefficient test for skin

The test method comprises the following steps: the procedure of test example 1 was followed.

The determination method comprises the following steps: the test samples were examples 1 and 3, and the samples were used as a blank group without any smearing, and after 1 week, 2 weeks, 5 weeks, and 10 weeks of use of the samples, the positions of the left and right tails of the eyes of the subject were photographed by a facial image analyzer VISIA-CR, the wrinkle visibility coefficient and the wrinkle occupancy coefficient were calculated, and the improvement of the facial wrinkles before and after use of the samples was evaluated. The results are shown in FIG. 2.

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the change in the wrinkle visibility coefficient and occupancy of the composition to the skin, A-the wrinkle visibility coefficient reduction rate and B-the occupancy coefficient reduction rate. As can be seen from fig. a and B, as the test proceeded, the reduction rates of the wrinkle visibility coefficient and the wrinkle occupancy coefficient of the canthus skin of the subject were significantly increased, and example 3 was more effective than example 1; it is demonstrated that berberine hydrochloride and trachelospermin added in example 3 can cooperate with other components to show better wrinkle removing effect, the visibility coefficient and wrinkle occupancy coefficient of canthus skin are continuously reduced, and the composition has the efficacy of eliminating fine lines of skin and weakening wrinkles.

Test example 3:

effect of wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition on skin muscle contraction

The test method comprises the following steps: the compositions prepared in examples 1 and 3 and comparative examples 4 and 5 were prepared as liquids having a concentration of 0.5% based on acetyl hexapeptide-8, respectively, and used as test groups, and the liquid prepared with acetyl hexapeptide-8 and having a concentration of 0.5% was used as a control group, and deionized water was used as a blank group. (1) Establishing a culture model: normal myoblasts were plated in MEM-containing medium at 37 ℃ in 5% carbon dioxide gelatin-coated plates until a monolayer of myofibrils was formed. Spinal cord explants of mouse embryos bearing dorsal root ganglia born 10d were then placed on the muscle cell monolayer and after 48h of co-culture, neurites growing from the explants were observed to contact the muscle cells and 100h later contraction began. After further culturing for 4 weeks, myofibrils can undergo regular contraction. (2) The test method comprises the following steps: before adding each test sample, observing the muscle contraction frequency of the culture model for 30s by using a microscope, observing for 5 times, counting, and taking an average value; the test samples were then added separately to the culture model. The muscle contraction frequency was observed at 3min, 3h and 48h for 30s each, counted and the results recorded. The inhibition rate is (number of blank groups-number of test groups)/number of blank groups × 100%. And the termination time of the effect of inhibiting muscle contraction was observed and recorded, and the results are shown in table 2 below.

TABLE 2 results of the effect of the composition on skin muscle contraction

As can be seen from the above table, the control group, example 1 and comparative example 5 showed little difference in the effect of inhibiting muscle contraction, comparative example 4 was preferable, and example 3 showed the best effect, which was 1.3 times or more the rate of inhibition of example 1 in the first 3 hours, and the effect-exhibiting time was longer than that of example 1, and the termination time was extended by 1.2 times or more. In conclusion, the berberine hydrochloride and the trachelospermin added in the preparation method of the embodiment 3 exert a synergistic effect, have a quick action and a long effect presentation time, and have better effects of smoothing fine wrinkles and compacting skin.

Test example 4:

test for inhibition of the Activity of wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin-care composition on two enzymes in the skin

(1) Effect of the composition on matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1 enzyme): preparing 50mmol/L HEPES buffer solution; diluting MMP-1 zymogen to 0.22 mu g/100 mu L with buffer solution for later use; diluting the fluorogenic substrate DQ-gelatin with buffer solution to 0.20. mu.g/100. mu.L for later use; preparing 30mmol/L stock solution of zymogen activator APMA for later use; the compositions prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 were prepared into a dispersion with a concentration of 1 mg/ml; mixing MMP-1 zymogen solution and APMA solution at a volume ratio of 10:1, and incubating at 37 deg.C for 45min for activation; taking 40 mu L of the activated MMP-1 solution (the concentration is 0.20 mu g/100 mu L), adding the activated MMP-1 solution into a 96-hole enzyme label plate, then respectively adding 8 mu L of the composition dispersion solution, setting deionized water groups as blank groups and fluorescent substrate DQ-gelatin solution as 52 mu L, and enabling the final reaction system to be 100 mu L; and putting the 96-well enzyme label plate with the completed sample adding into an incubator at 37 ℃ for incubation for 600s at constant temperature.

Test results detection (1) before the reaction, the fluorescence intensity of the composition components is detected under the detection conditions that the excitation wavelength is 460nm and the emission wavelength is 520 nm; (2) after the incubation of the reaction system is stopped, the fluorescence intensity of the whole reaction system is detected by a fluorescence microplate reader, the excitation wavelength is 460nm, and the emission wavelength is 520 nm. Processing test data: MMP-1 inhibition percentage (%) [1- (a1-a2)/a0] x 100%, a1 — fluorescence intensity of the inhibition group added with the composition component; a2-fluorescence intensity of composition ingredients themselves; a0-fluorescence intensity of blank control group. The results are shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 3 inhibition of matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Activity by compositions

	Example 1	Comparative example 1	Comparative example 2	Comparative example 3	Blank group
						Inhibition ratio%	45.28	21.64	10.76	11.54	0.15

As can be seen from the above table, example 1 shows a better inhibition effect on the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1, which indicates that the addition of perillartine and potassium guaiacolsulfonate in example 1 can synergistically enhance with other components, alleviate excessive degradation of collagen and elastin, maintain skin elasticity, and achieve the effects of reducing skin photoaging and delaying aging.

(2) Effect of the composition on hyaluronidase: the compositions prepared in examples 1 and 3 and comparative examples 4 and 5 were prepared as a 1mg/ml dispersion for use; taking 0.1mL of 0.25mmol/LCaCl2 solution and 0.5mL of hyaluronidase solution, and carrying out heat preservation culture in 37 ℃ water bath for 20 min; adding 0.5mL of the composition dispersion, setting the deionized water group as a blank group, and continuing the water bath at 37 ℃ for heat preservation and culture for 20 min; adding 0.5mL sodium hyaluronate aqueous solution, keeping the temperature in 37 ℃ water bath for 30min, and standing at normal temperature for 5 min; then 0.1mL of 0.4mol/L NaOH aqueous solution and 0.5mL of acetylacetone are added, and the mixture is heated in a boiling water bath for 15min and then immediately cooled for 5min by ice water; then adding 1.0mL of Ellisib reagent, diluting with 3.0mL of absolute ethanol, standing at normal temperature for 20min for color development, and measuring the absorbance value of the solution at the wavelength of 555nm by using a spectrophotometer. The inhibition rate of hyaluronidase was calculated as follows: hyaluronidase inhibition [% 1- (a1-a2)/a0] × 100%, a1 — fluorescence intensity of the inhibition group with the addition of composition components; a2-fluorescence intensity of composition ingredients themselves; a0-fluorescence intensity of blank control group. The results are shown in Table 4 below.

TABLE 4 inhibition of hyaluronidase Activity by compositions

	Example 1	Example 3	Comparative example 4	Comparative example 5	Blank group
						Inhibition ratio%	42.44	67.26	42.70	46.47	0.52

As can be seen from the above table, example 3 shows a better inhibitory effect on hyaluronidase activity, which indicates that berberine hydrochloride and trachelospermin added in example 3 can cooperate with other components to show the efficacy of inhibiting hyaluronidase in vitro, inhibit the release of allergic mediators, and have good anti-allergic, allergic repair and sensitive skin property.

Test example 5:

anti-chapping test for wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin care composition

The test method comprises the following steps: cream bodies prepared from the wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition prepared in example 1 by the other raw material content and preparation method in example 4 were used, and cream bodies prepared from the composition added in an amount of 10 wt% were used as a test group, and cream bodies prepared from the composition not contained were used as a blank group. The two kinds of frost bodies were subjected to a skin smearing test on the feet of a human body for one month (winter), the number of trial persons was 140, and 70 persons per group were randomly divided into 2 groups, and the evaluation after use is shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 human application evaluation chart of anti-chapping effect of composition

As shown in the table above, the cream prepared from the composition has the effects of moistening skin, forming a protective film on the surface of the skin, promoting the repair and healing of a chapped wound, stimulating the immunocompetence of cells, facilitating the recovery of a wound surface or/and reducing scars and ensuring good response of a user.

Test example 6:

sensory evaluation of skin cream having wrinkle removing function

The test method comprises the following steps: the wrinkle-removing anti-aging skin cream prepared in example 4 was set as a test group, a commercially available hexapeptide anti-wrinkle essence cream of a certain brand was set as a control group 1, and a commercially available wrinkle-removing moisturizing cream of a certain brand was set as a control group 2. 40 volunteers are selected for sensory evaluation, and the selected volunteers are required to have higher touch sensitivity and accuracy and can objectively evaluate the characteristics of the cosmetics. The specific operation method comprises the following steps: (1) appearance evaluation, (2) picking-up stage evaluation: a0.05 mL sample was touched with the index finger, and the lifting property, the stringiness and the interphalangeal adhesion of the sample were observed. (3) Evaluation of smearing stage: applying 0.1mL sample on skin, applying 10 circles on finger abdomen of index finger and middle finger, and evaluating the ease of application, greasy feeling, and moisture circle. (4) Evaluation of feel after painting: after 5min after application of the sample, it was observed whether there was any signs of rubbing and stinging, and its absorbency and retention were evaluated.

Before testing, each sample was first unordered and then subjected to sensory testing by volunteers who were asked to select the best performing sample according to the test content and recorded. Finally, the data of all testers are collated to make a radar chart, as shown in FIG. 3.

Fig. 3 is a diagram showing sensory evaluation results of three skin creams having a wrinkle-removing function. As can be seen, the test group, comparative group 1, and comparative group 2 experienced less good moisture circles, gloss and spreadability, probably due to the more prominent moisturizing effect of comparative group 2, but also resulted in poor performance in absorbency and retention of comparative group 2; the test group and the comparison group 1 have higher emulsifier content, and the frost body is more viscous, but the test group shows better moisture circle, absorbability and easy smearing degree, and the greasy feeling is weaker, and the differences of the lifting property, the wire drawing property, the fingertip adhesion force and the like of the two groups are not obvious; compared comprehensively, the test group shows a better absorption effect, the smearing stage evaluation is high, the sensory experience is more excellent, and the range of applicable people is wider and more comprehensive.

Conventional techniques in the above embodiments are known to those skilled in the art, and therefore, will not be described in detail herein.

The above embodiments are merely illustrative, and not restrictive, and those skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, all equivalent technical solutions also belong to the scope of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention should be defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition comprising:

at least one humectant comprising a compound having a molecular weight of 1 × 10⁴-5×10⁵Da, in the form of a dispersion in a protective colloid;

antioxidants including astaxanthin and lycopene; the antioxidant is present in the form of lipid nanocapsules.

2. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is obtained by degrading a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid solution with the initial concentration of 1-3g/L serving as a raw material for 4-6 hours in an ultrasonic environment with the frequency of 50-65kHz, the temperature of 15-30 ℃ and the pH value of 5-9.

3. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging and skin-care composition according to claim 1, wherein the protective colloid is alginate/β -dextran hydrogel, and the weight ratio of the alginate to β -dextran, propylene glycol and sterile water is 1:0.5-1.5:2-4: 4-8.

4. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: the dispersion is formed under the conditions: stirring and mixing the mixture in a water bath with the temperature of 60-70 ℃ at the speed of 2000-8000r/min for 10-30 min.

5. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: 0.015-0.05 wt% of perillaseed and 0.05-0.1 wt% of potassium guaiacolsulfonate are also dispersed in the gel system of the dispersoid.

6. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: the humectant also comprises a component with molecular weight not less than 1 × 10⁶A high molecular weight hyaluronic acid of Da; the weight ratio of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is 1: 0.5-2.

7. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: the lipid nanocapsule is an O/W type nano structure prepared by a high-pressure homogenization method; the operating conditions of the high-pressure homogenization method are as follows: the pressure is 600-800bar and the cycle time is 3-4 times.

8. The wrinkle-removing, anti-aging, skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein: the average particle diameter of the lipid nanocapsule is 75-95nm, the polydispersity index is 0.1-0.2, and the Zeta potential is-32.6 to-36.5 mV.

9. Use of a wrinkle-removing anti-ageing skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in cosmetics, characterized in that: the cosmetic has effects in keeping moisture, supplementing water, removing and preventing wrinkle, resisting oxidation, resisting aging or/and improving skin elasticity.

10. Use of a wrinkle-removing, anti-ageing, skin-care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in a material for wound healing and/or scar reduction, preferably in an amount of 10 to 45% by weight of the material.