CN110004747B - 高耐水洗的t/c混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺 - Google Patents
高耐水洗的t/c混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明属于纺织印染加工领域，特别涉及高耐水洗的T/C混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺，对使用再生色母粒为涤纶原料、纺织过程使用不含PVA浆料的T/C混纺工装面料进行染整加工，其工艺流程：前处理‑‑染色‑‑后整理‑‑成品。本发明纺织过程没有使用含有PVA的浆料，减轻了前处理的工艺难度，使退煮工序的工作液浓度平均降低25%左右，第一水洗槽排水的COD值降低了40%以上，具有明显的节能减排效果；使用了色母粒为涤纶原料，染色时没有了分散染料上染的工序，提高了生产效率，同时也减少了还原清洗过程保险粉和NaOH的使用；成品具有优良的抗起毛起球及抗皱性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织印染加工领域，特别涉及高耐水洗的T/C混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺。
背景技术
T/C混纺机织物作为工装和防护类面料在国内外有着十分广泛的市场，它充分融合了涤纶纤维高强力、抗皱、耐磨和棉纤维的吸湿、透气等优良性能，成为工装面料的主流品种，尤其通过各种染整的功能性加工整理后，遍布于各种行业使用。但随着科技的进步和生产生活方式的转变，人们对工装面料的性能和耐久性的要求也在提升，其标准越来越高，如面料性能的耐水洗性，尤其是抗皱、抗起毛起球、变色等指标，现有传统工艺已经不能更好的满足需求。为不断满足客户的需求，必须在产品使用的材料和加工工艺等方面持续改进，已达到更高的标准。
纺织品的耐水洗性是指其在服用水洗过程中性能指标的衰减程度，即按照规定标准，纺织品在经过多次水洗后的抗皱性、抗起毛起球性、色牢度所保持的水平。要提高指标的耐洗性，就要根据指标的性能原理和影响因素的分析判断来针对解决。简述如下：
抗皱原理：涤纶纤维自身有一定的抗皱性，但在与棉混纺后指标及耐洗还不够理想，其原因是棉纤维水洗时，纤维无定型区膨化，干燥后收缩，导致棉纤维变形，织物起皱。T/C混纺织物浸轧免烫树脂，树脂扩散到棉纤维无定型区，高温焙烘与纤维分子形成氢键，将棉纤维分子链互相缠结起来，限制分子链相对滑移，阻碍织物变形，获得耐久的抗皱效果并提高织物缩水率。
抗起毛起球原理：T/C混纺织物受机械摩擦时纤维相互缠绕，造成表面形成毛绒和球状物，由于纤维强力高不易脱落，即为织物起毛起球。抗起毛起球整理的原理：织物浸轧抗起毛起球剂，烘干并焙烘后助剂结膜并覆盖织物表面，降低纤维间的摩擦，减少毛球的形成。
染色牢度：轧染方法中染料和纤维的结合是在纤维的表面，即所谓的环染，使得织物在服用过程中经过水洗、光照、摩擦等外力造成染料的分解、脱落，表现为褪色现象。解决方法除了选择优良的染料以外就是尽量使染料向纤维内部渗透，增强染料抗外力的能力。
发明内容
本发明的目的是解决传统工艺生产出的工装面料其耐水洗性，尤其是抗皱、抗起毛起球、变色等指标不能很好的满足客户需求等问题，提供一种高耐水洗的T/C混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺，采用改变原材料与控制染整工艺的综合方式，使产品的性能达到要求并产生了循环经济和节能减排的效应。
本发明的技术方案是：高耐水洗的T/C混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺，其特征是：对使用再生色母粒为涤纶原料、纺织过程使用不含PVA浆料的T/C混纺工装面料进行染整加工，其工艺流程：前处理--染色--后整理--成品；具体步骤为：
(1)前处理：坯布准备--烧毛--退煮--漂白--丝光--定型；
退煮工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
漂白工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
调整PH＝10.5-11；
(2)染色：浸轧染液--烘干--浸轧固色液--汽蒸--水洗、皂洗--烘干；
具体根据颜色的深度、鲜艳度及染色牢度要求来确定染色选用活性或还原染料。
a.活性染料染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
活性染料 10-60g
防泳移剂 5-20g
渗透剂 1-2g；
活性染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
NaOH 3-5g
Na2CO3 30g
NaCl 200g；
b.还原染料染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
还原染料 20-80g
防泳移剂 5-20g
渗透剂 1-2g；
还原染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
保险粉 30-50g
NaOH 35-60g；
(3)后整理：浸轧整理液--烘干--定型--预缩；
整理液组成为每升整理液中含有以下组分：
(4)成品：检验--包装。
所述(1)其中烧毛采用二正二反，车速110m/min；退煮采用浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸50min，车速70m/min；漂白采用浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸30min，车速70m/min；丝光采用NaOH220--240g/L，车速80m/min；定型采用210℃，车速60m/min。
所述(2)中浸轧染液采用多浸一轧，轧余率60--65％；汽蒸采用100℃，60s。
所述(3)中浸轧整理液采用多浸一轧，轧余率60--65％；定型采用190-195℃，车速35-40m/min；预缩采用车速35m/min,机缩3％。
本发明对使用再生色母粒为涤纶原料、纺织过程使用不含PVA浆料的T/C混纺工装面料进行染整加工，使其具备更高的耐洗服用性能，具有以下特点：
(1)由于使用色母粒为涤纶原料，使产品的皂洗、摩擦、日晒牢度平均提高0.5级以上，在经过50次工业水洗(ISO6330:1A，92℃*30min)后，其颜色变化对比原样仍可保持4级水平。
(2)由于使用了色母粒为涤纶原料，染色时没有了分散染料上染的工序，提高了生产效率，同时也减少了还原清洗过程保险粉和NaOH的使用。
(3)由于纺织过程没有使用含有PVA的浆料，减轻了前处理的工艺难度，使退煮工序的工作液浓度平均降低25％左右，第一水洗槽排水的COD值降低了40％以上，具有明显的节能减排效果。
(4)本发明的产品其抗起毛起球性能(ISO12945-2:2000,7000转)经过5次工业水洗(ISO633:1A,92℃*30min)后达到4级以上水平。
(5)本发明的产品其抗皱性能(GB/T18863-2002)经过5次工业水洗(ISO633:1A,92℃*30min)后好于DP3.5级水平。
具体实施方式
以下结合生产实例对本发明进行具体说明，但本发明不局限于本实例。
实施例1
T/C65/35 14*14 80*52 2/1 150cm纱卡黑色
工艺流程：前处理--染色--后整理--成品；
(1)前处理：坯布准备--烧毛(二正二反，车速110m/min)--退煮(浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸50min,车速70m/min)--漂白(浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸30min，车速70m/min)--丝光(NaOH 220--240g/L,车速80m/min)--定型(210℃,车速60m/min)；
退煮工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
漂白工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
调整PH＝10.5-11；
(2)染色：浸轧染液(轧余率60--65％，多浸一轧)--烘干--浸轧固色液--汽蒸(100℃,60s)--水洗、皂洗--烘干；
染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
NaOH 5g
Na2CO3 30g
NaCl 200g；
(3)后整理：浸轧整理液(轧余率60--65％，多浸一轧)--烘干--定型(190-195℃,车速40m/min)--预缩(车速35m/min,机缩3％)；
整理液组成为每升整理液中含有以下组分：
(4)成品：检验--包装。
成品主要指标：
水洗条件：按照ISO633:1A方式92℃，水洗30min,连续5次，平铺烘干。
(1)水洗后，抗起毛起球性能(ISO12945-2:2000,7000转)4级。
(2)水洗后，抗皱性能(GB/T18863-2002)DP4级。
(3)染色牢度：皂洗牢度褪变色4级、沾色4级。
摩擦牢度干摩4级、湿摩3.5级。
日晒牢度4级。
按以上条件水洗50次时，原样变化为4级。
实施例2
本实施例中所述的生产品种及质量要求与实施例1相同，颜色为咖啡色。
本实施例中所述的工艺步骤均与实施例1相同，不同点为：
退煮工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
漂白工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
还原染料染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
还原染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
保险粉 45g
NaOH 50g；
整理液组成为每升整理液中含有以下组分：
实施例3
本实施例中所述的生产品种及质量要求与实施例1相同，颜色为淡紫。
本实施例中所述的工艺步骤均与实施例1相同，不同点为：
退煮工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
漂白工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
NaOH 3g
Na2CO3 30g
NaCl 200g；
整理液组成为每升整理液中含有以下组分：
Claims (1)
1.高耐水洗的T/C混纺机织工装面料的染整加工工艺，其特征是：对使用再生色母粒为涤纶原料、纺织过程使用不含PVA浆料的T/C混纺工装面料进行染整加工，其工艺流程：前处理--染色--后整理--成品；具体步骤为：
（1）前处理：坯布准备--烧毛--退煮--漂白--丝光--定型；
所述烧毛采用二正二反，车速110m/min；退煮采用浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸50min，车速70m/min；漂白采用浸轧工作液，100℃汽蒸30min，车速70m/min；丝光采用NaOH 220--240g/L，车速80m/min；定型采用210℃，车速60m/min；
退煮工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
NaOH 20-30g
精炼酶 5-20 g
亚硫酸钠 5 g
螯合分散剂 1-2 g；
漂白工作液组成为每升工作液中含有以下组分：
H2O2 5-6 g
稳定剂 6-7 g
精炼酶 5-10 g
螯合分散剂 1-2 g
调整pH = 10.5-11；
（ 2 ） 染色：浸轧染液--烘干--浸轧固色液--汽蒸--水洗、皂洗--烘干；
所述浸轧染液采用多浸一轧，轧余率60--65%；汽蒸采用100℃，60s；
a.活性染料染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
活性染料 10-60g
防泳移剂 5-20g
渗透剂 1-2g；
活性染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
NaOH 3-5g
Na2CO3 30g
NaCl 200g；
b.还原染料染液组成为每升染液中含有以下组分：
还原染料 20-80g
防泳移剂 5-20g
渗透剂 1-2g；
还原染料固色液组成为每升固色液中含有以下组分：
保险粉 30-50g
NaOH 35-60g；
（3）后整理：浸轧整理液--烘干--定型--预缩；
所述浸轧整理液采用多浸一轧，轧余率60--65%；定型采用190-195℃，车速35-40m/min；预缩采用车速35m/min,机缩3%；
整理液组成为每升整理液中含有以下组分：
免烫树脂 80-100 g
强力保护剂 50-60 g
催化剂 15-20 g
柔软剂 5-10 g
抗起毛起球剂 60-80 g；
（4）成品：检验--包装。
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