CN109554805A - 一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺 - Google Patents

一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺 Download PDF

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CN109554805A
CN109554805A CN201811438754.XA CN201811438754A CN109554805A CN 109554805 A CN109554805 A CN 109554805A CN 201811438754 A CN201811438754 A CN 201811438754A CN 109554805 A CN109554805 A CN 109554805A
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terylene
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陆国民
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Tongxiang City Jing Feng Textile Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/39—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using acid dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/341—Material containing ester groups using acid dyes
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    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/36—Material containing ester groups using dispersed dyestuffs
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
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    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，首先使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为经丝，在整经机上设置整经长度为5600m,整经根数为7840根，整经长度达到后进行倒轴；穿筘选择19号筘，每筘2穿入，筘幅为206.3cm，设置上机纬密28.3梭/cm，落布长度设置为200米/匹，使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为纬纱，全甲纬喷纬，纹板为平纹组织，车速控制在650r/min，使用储纬滚筒回转式储纬器；然后坯布经原布检验。该涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺染色均匀，不易褪色，回弹性好，耐磨性好。

Description

一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺
技术领域：
本发明涉及纺织领域，具体讲是一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺。
背景技术：
现有的运动面料种类繁多，但大多无法兼顾弹性和染整色牢固，造成运动面料无法适用于高端产品。
发明内容：
本发明所要解决的技术问题是，提供一种染色均匀，不易褪色，回弹性好，耐磨性好的涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺。
本发明的技术解决方案是，提供一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，首先使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为经丝，在整经机上设置整经长度为5600m,整经根数为7840根，整经长度达到后进行倒轴；穿筘选择19号筘，每筘2穿入，筘幅为206.3cm，设置上机纬密28.3梭/cm，落布长度设置为200米/匹，使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为纬纱，全甲纬喷纬，纹板为平纹组织，车速控制在650r/min，使用储纬滚筒回转式储纬器；然后坯布经原布检验，经开卷，接头，白胚打卷冷堆，使布面得到均匀收缩，为下道工序进一步回缩增加弹性做好充分准备；准备进入预缩机，预缩机设定温度180℃，预缩机处理好的布面进入预定型机，预定型温度设置为200℃，车速为30m/min，经向超喂10％；最后进行染色，工艺设置为德思达进口酸性染料4％，高效涤纶分散染料2g/L，pH调节剂1g/L，敖和分散剂1g/L,浴比1:7,染色时间为95℃*60min,升降温速率为0.5℃/min。
作为优选，染色时还进行固色处理，酸性固色剂1.5g/L,冰醋1g/L,浴比1：7，固色温度时间为80℃*40min。染色完成布料进入自动脱水机，脱水时间为15min。
进一步的，脱水完成的布再次整理定型，设置定型温度为160-170℃，时间为30-60s，加入清水柔软剂10g/L,非离子抗静电10g/L,超毛柔软剂10g/L,车速60m/min，超喂4-5％，过程采用一浸一轧，轧液率为5％。
采用以上技术方案后与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下优点：经纬纱均采用81D/48F的T8纱线，采用平纹组织织造，产品染色均匀，不易褪色，回弹性好，耐磨性好，可广泛应用于制作外套，裤子，成本低；在织物后处理过程中，采用T8纱线的织物色牢度等级达到了4.0～4.5，1S内瞬间吸湿，吸湿高度可达20cm，染色容易，上色均匀且不易褪色；同时采用T8纤维的纱线可以做出仿锦纶的效果，锦纶由于其原料价格高昂，其成品售价远高于涤纶，消费者往往难接受如此高昂的价格。T8纤维由于其高性能，色牢度高等特性，且可以做出仿锦纶效果，在技术成熟后可以成为替代锦纶的优异产品，价格低且性能不亚于锦纶。
具体实施方式：
下面就具体实施方式对本发明作进一步说明：
一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，首先使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为经丝，在整经机上设置整经长度为5600m,整经根数为7840根，整经长度达到后进行倒轴；穿筘选择19号筘，每筘2穿入，筘幅为206.3cm，设置上机纬密28.3梭/cm，落布长度设置为200米/匹，使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为纬纱，全甲纬喷纬，纹板为平纹组织，车速控制在650r/min，使用储纬滚筒回转式储纬器；然后坯布经原布检验，经开卷，接头，白胚打卷冷堆，使布面得到均匀收缩，为下道工序进一步回缩增加弹性做好充分准备。整经机选用江阴第四纺织机械制造有限公司生产的SHGA215C分条整经机。
然后进入染整工艺，染整工艺为：坯布经原布检验，检验内容包括物理指标及布面瑕疵，经开卷，接头，白胚打卷冷堆，使布面得到均匀收缩，为下道工序进一步回缩增加弹性做好充分准备。由于未经过上浆，前处理阶段不需要平幅退浆，准备进入预缩机，预缩机设定温度180℃，预缩机处理好的布面进入预定型机，预定型温度设置为200℃，车速为30m/min，经向超喂10％，由于T8纱线弹性优异，胚布下机后幅宽方向回缩率高达40％-50％，需要借助预缩预定型，使得织物的规定幅宽与回缩率达到平衡。T8原料的染色工艺与普通涤纶织物类似，工艺设置为德思达进口酸性染料(O.W.F)4％，高效涤纶分散染料2g/L,PH调节剂AB-45 1g/L，敖和分散剂TF-510C 1g/L,浴比1:7,染色时间为95℃*60min,升降温速率为0.5℃/min。
为使得布面具有更高的色牢度，T8面料色牢度可达到4级，需要加入固色工艺，工艺条件为：酸性固色剂1.5g/L,冰醋1g/L,浴比1：7，固色温度时间为80℃*40min。染色完成布料进入ZSH-2000型自动脱水机，脱水时间约为15min。
为使得布面具有更加良好的手感、风格、幅宽，脱水完成的布需要再次整理定型。一般设置定型温度为160-170℃，时间为30-60s，加入清水柔软剂TF-406B 10g/L,非离子抗静电TF-480A 10g/L,超毛柔软剂10g/L,车速60m/min，超喂4-5％，过程采用一浸一轧，轧液率为5％。
本发明经纬纱均采用81D/48F的T8纱线，采用平纹组织织造，产品染色均匀，不易褪色，回弹性好，耐磨性好，可广泛应用于制作外套，裤子，成本低；在织物后处理过程中，采用T8纱线的织物色牢度等级达到了4.0～4.5，1S内瞬间吸湿，吸湿高度可达20cm，染色容易，上色均匀且不易褪色；同时采用T8纤维的纱线可以做出仿锦纶的效果，锦纶由于其原料价格高昂，其成品售价远高于涤纶，消费者往往难接受如此高昂的价格。T8纤维由于其高性能，色牢度高等特性，且可以做出仿锦纶效果，在技术成熟后可以成为替代锦纶的优异产品，价格低且性能不亚于锦纶。

Claims (3)

1.一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：首先使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为经丝，在整经机上设置整经长度为5600m,整经根数为7840根，整经长度达到后进行倒轴；穿筘选择19号筘，每筘2穿入，筘幅为206.3cm，设置上机纬密28.3梭/cm，落布长度设置为200米/匹，使用81D/48F的T8纱线作为纬纱，全甲纬喷纬，纹板为平纹组织，车速控制在650r/min，使用储纬滚筒回转式储纬器；然后坯布经原布检验，经开卷，接头，白胚打卷冷堆，使布面得到均匀收缩，为下道工序进一步回缩增加弹性做好充分准备；准备进入预缩机，预缩机设定温度180℃，预缩机处理好的布面进入预定型机，预定型温度设置为200℃，车速为30m/min，经向超喂10％；最后进行染色，工艺设置为德思达进口酸性染料4％，高效涤纶分散染料2g/L，pH调节剂1g/L，敖和分散剂1g/L,浴比1:7,染色时间为95℃*60min,升降温速率为0.5℃/min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：染色时还进行固色处理，酸性固色剂1.5g/L,冰醋1g/L,浴比1：7，固色温度时间为80℃*40min。染色完成布料进入自动脱水机，脱水时间为15min。
3.根据权利要求2所述的涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：脱水完成的布再次整理定型，设置定型温度为160-170℃，时间为30-60s，加入清水柔软剂10g/L,非离子抗静电10g/L,超毛柔软剂10g/L,车速60m/min，超喂4-5％，过程采用一浸一轧，轧液率为5％。
CN201811438754.XA 2018-11-28 2018-11-28 一种涤纶双组分弹力纤维运动面料的制作工艺 Pending CN109554805A (zh)

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CN111764024A (zh) * 2020-05-12 2020-10-13 桐乡市卓源纺织股份有限公司 一种低弹丝抗静电涤纶面料的制备方法
CN114934341A (zh) * 2021-07-23 2022-08-23 上海九裕纺织科技有限公司 一种基于t8生产梭织仿针织面料的织造工艺及应用

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111764024A (zh) * 2020-05-12 2020-10-13 桐乡市卓源纺织股份有限公司 一种低弹丝抗静电涤纶面料的制备方法
CN114934341A (zh) * 2021-07-23 2022-08-23 上海九裕纺织科技有限公司 一种基于t8生产梭织仿针织面料的织造工艺及应用
CN114934341B (zh) * 2021-07-23 2023-05-12 上海九裕纺织科技有限公司 一种基于t8生产梭织仿针织面料的织造工艺及应用

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