CN107326692A - 一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN107326692A
CN107326692A CN201710380858.9A CN201710380858A CN107326692A CN 107326692 A CN107326692 A CN 107326692A CN 201710380858 A CN201710380858 A CN 201710380858A CN 107326692 A CN107326692 A CN 107326692A
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黄德米
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Abstract

一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：1）织造后退浆：将织物用亚溴酸钠退浆，温度为80‑100℃，pH为10；2）印花后进行烘干定型：印花后烘干温度为120℃，蒸化温度为120‑130℃，蒸化时间5‑10min；随后进行热定型，温度为150℃，热定型的时间为50s，定型机速度40m/min；3）涂层：将涂层剂涂布在织物上；4）水洗：通过pH为7、20‑30℃温度的水洗，烘干，烘干温度为80℃，时间为30min。本发明的工艺流程不仅缩短了传统的工艺，降低了生产成本，同时还具有防水透气的优点，通过色织布印花工艺还改变了原有色织布花色单一的缺点，还使得花型图案更具立体感。

Description

一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料及其加工工艺，尤其是涉及一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺。
背景技术
色织是将纱线或长丝经染色后进行织布的工艺方法，有全色织和半色织之分。日本称做“先染织物”，是指先将纱线或长丝经过染色，然后使用色纱进行织布的工艺方法，这种面料称为“色织布”，生产色织布的工厂一般称为染织厂，如牛仔布，及大部分的衬衫面料都是色织布。色织布一般由小提花、剑杆织机生产。用染色的纱线织成的织物，给纱染色一般分为色纺纱和染色纱二种方式，通常说的色织布是指梭织机织的布，但针织机也同样可以做出色织针织布，相对印染布来说它风格独特。
织物印花是一种对材料的表面处理方法，除了在薄型织物上，一般所印的染料很少能渗透进织物结构的深处，水洗或干洗及随后的转笼烘燥，以及日常使用所引起的磨损，往往会使织物表面的纤维脱落，使织物表面颜色变浅或露出未着色纤维，使织物褪色。目前色织布印花工艺主要存在以下不足：色织印花的工艺复杂、效率低下且生产成本高，不能保证面料原有的特色，且花样单一，不能满足人们需求。
关于聚氨酯涂层剂用于布料涂层，有以下发明：发明CN102417573B中公开了一种人造麂皮用聚氨酯涂层剂的制备方法，使用蓖麻油聚酯多元醇、DMF、扩链剂1.4-丁二醇以及T12催化剂制得溶剂型PU溶液。发明 CN105401441A公开了一种羽绒服用涂层剂，以改性水性聚氨酯为原料，还包括水性添加剂、聚氨酯增稠剂、消泡剂和水，涂层剂选用改性水性聚氨酯，添加水性添加剂(醚类)改变水性聚氨酯结构。而在本发明中，我们同时使用聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸复合型涂料，兼备了聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸二者的优点，具有耐磨、耐腐蚀和光亮，柔软有弹性，耐水性和力学性能好，耐候性佳等特性。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，本发明加工工艺简单、易行，降低了生产成本，同时使用聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸复合型涂料，还具有防水透气的优点，通过色织布印花工艺还改变了原有色织布花色单一的缺点，还使得花型图案更具立体感。
为了达到上述目的，本发明提供以下加工工艺，包括：
1）织造后退浆：将织物用亚溴酸钠退浆，温度为80-100℃，pH为10；
2）印花后进行烘干定型：印花后烘干温度为120℃，蒸化温度为120-130℃，蒸化时间5-10min；随后进行热定型，温度为150℃，热定型的时间为50s，定型机速度40m/min；
3）涂层：将含有100份聚氨酯、80份聚丙烯酸、15份着色涂料、1份非离子型表面活性剂、2份阴离子表面活性剂和200份DMF混合后的涂层剂涂布在织物上；
4）水洗：通过pH为7、20-30℃温度的水洗，烘干，烘干温度为80℃，时间为30min。
优选地，所述的退浆为亚溴酸钠溶液有效溴浓度为1g/L。
优选地，所述的印花方式为直接印花。
优选地，所述的单次涂层为湿法涂层。
本发明的有益效果是：
1.利用强极性溶剂二甲基甲酰胺能无限混溶的特点，将直连分子的聚氨酯溶解于二甲基甲酰胺中制成涂布浆料。经聚氨酯二甲基甲酰胺涂层的底布，再经与水溶液接触，涂层表面的二甲基甲酰胺向水相溶出，而聚氨酯由于不溶于水而使得浓度迅速提高，分子间凝聚力增大，从而形成半透膜。通过半渗透膜，二甲基甲酰胺向水相扩散，而水也向涂层扩散渗透。在最外的涂层表面会出现垂直于膜表面的二甲基甲酰胺溶出通路的痕迹，最终生成微孔薄膜。此孔径只能透过水蒸气的水分子，对雨滴或水滴，因其粒径太大而无法通过，不仅具有一定的防水性，还能通过微孔透气透湿。
2.本文中使用的是聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸复合型涂料，具有低廉，安全，不燃烧，无毒，不污染环境等优点。纯聚丙烯酸乳液存在耐磨性、耐水性和耐化学品性差的缺陷，固含量高，应用范围不广等。聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸在性质上具有互补作用。聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸复合型乳液兼备了二者的优点，具有耐磨、耐腐蚀和光亮，柔软有弹性，耐水性和力学性能好，耐候性佳等特性。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例详细说明本发明，但本发明并不局限于具体实施例。
实施例1：
1）织造：对经纱、维纱线进行染色，将两种纬纱交叉打纬，与经纱一起织造成织物。
2）色织布退浆处理：去除织物上浆料的过程，棉、粘胶以及合成纤维等织物的经纱，在织造前大都先经过浆纱。浆料在染整过程中会影响织物的润湿性，并阻碍化学品对纤维接触。因此织物一般都先经退浆。棉织物退浆兼有去除纤维中部分杂质的作用。将织物用亚溴酸钠在100℃时退浆，pH为10，有效溴浓度为1g/L的亚溴酸钠溶液浸轧，在常温下堆置20分钟左右，对羧甲基纤维素、淀粉或聚乙烯醇上浆的织物有良好的退浆效果。
3）印花后进行烘干定型：印花后烘干温度为120℃，蒸化温度为130℃，蒸化时间5分钟。随后进行热定型，温度为150℃，热定型的时间为50秒，定型机速度40m/min。
4）涂层：将含有100份聚氨酯、80份聚丙烯酸、15份着色涂料、1份非离子型表面活性剂、2份阴离子表面活性剂和200份DMF混合后的涂层剂通过涂布机均匀涂布在织物上。
5）水洗：通过水凝固浴20℃，pH为7，在织物上形成多微孔性薄膜。洗水后烘干，烘干温度为80℃，时间为30min。
对比例1：
1）织造后退浆：将织物用亚溴酸钠退浆，温度为100℃，pH为10；
2）印花后进行烘干定型：印花后烘干温度为120℃，蒸化温度为130℃，蒸化时间5min；随后进行热定型，温度为150℃，热定型的时间为50s，定型机速度40m/min；
3）涂层：将含有100份聚氨酯、15份着色涂料、1份非离子型表面活性剂、2份阴离子表面活性剂和200份DMF混合后的涂层剂涂布在织物上；
4）水洗：通过pH为7、20℃温度的水洗，烘干，烘干温度为80℃，时间为30min。
按GB/T420-90标准测试皂洗牢度，按GB/T3920-1997《纺织品耐摩擦色牢度实验方法》标准测试摩擦色牢度。
通过对比，我们可以看出对比例1中所用涂料为单组分聚氨酯涂料，摩擦牢度和皂洗牢度相对于聚氨酯和聚丙烯酸复合型涂料要低1-2个等级。同时实施例1中得到的面料印花色泽艳丽，布料手感柔软、透气舒适，悬垂性好。
尽管已经示出和描述了本发明的实施例，此实施例为最优实施例，对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以理解在不脱离本发明的原理和精神的情况下可以对这些实施例进行多种变化、修改、替换和变型，本发明的范围由所附权利要求及其等同物限定。

Claims (4)

1.一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
1）织造后退浆：将织物用亚溴酸钠退浆，温度为80-100℃，pH为10；
2）印花后进行烘干定型：印花后烘干温度为120℃，蒸化温度为120-130℃，蒸化时间5-10min；随后进行热定型，温度为150℃，热定型的时间为50s，定型机速度40m/min；
涂层：将含有100份聚氨酯、80份聚丙烯酸、15份着色涂料、1份非离子型表面活性剂、2份阴离子表面活性剂和200份DMF混合后的涂层剂涂布在织物上；
4）水洗：通过pH为7、20-30℃温度的水洗，烘干，烘干温度为80℃，时间为30min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述的退浆为亚溴酸钠溶液有效溴浓度为1g/L。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述的印花方式为直接印花。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水透气型印花色织布的加工工艺，其特征在于，所述的单次涂层为湿法涂层。
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Cited By (3)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110129965A (zh) * 2019-05-28 2019-08-16 泉州迈特富纺织科技有限公司 三维织物及其制备方法
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CN112941925A (zh) * 2021-01-27 2021-06-11 深圳市玮言服饰股份有限公司 印花面料的处理工艺

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CN112663358A (zh) * 2021-01-15 2021-04-16 广州溢成印花有限公司 一种具有透气效果的印花衣料及其制备工艺
CN112941925A (zh) * 2021-01-27 2021-06-11 深圳市玮言服饰股份有限公司 印花面料的处理工艺

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