CN105708732A - 预防皮肤老化的化妆品组合物 - Google Patents
预防皮肤老化的化妆品组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105708732A CN105708732A CN201610066623.8A CN201610066623A CN105708732A CN 105708732 A CN105708732 A CN 105708732A CN 201610066623 A CN201610066623 A CN 201610066623A CN 105708732 A CN105708732 A CN 105708732A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种组合物，包含选自胺、酰胺和多元醇中的至少一种以作为活性成分。该化妆品组合物具有预防老化的效果，可以用于包含化妆品的各种工业领域。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种用于预防由红外(IR)线及其类似物所引起的老化的化妆品组合物。
背景技术
众所周知，紫外(UV)线波长比可见光线短，会对人的皮肤产生不利影响。因此，许多研究都致力于开发抗UV产品。
然而，至今红外(IR)线对皮肤的影响并不完全知道。IR线占太阳光的80％，比起UV或可见光线，IR线被大气中的微粒反射或分散的趋向相对较低，并且没有受到空气中的氧气分子或氮气分子阻断而通过空气传播到达地面。
近来，已经证明，IR线能促进血液循环、使体温升高，因此会对人的皮肤产生不利影响。特别是，已经表明，IR线会促进皮肤皱纹的产生。IR线导致皮肤皱纹形成的机理不同于UV线导致皮肤皱纹形成的机理。因此，当皮肤暴露在阳光下时，在皮肤上涂用已知的抗UV产品不能预防IR线导致的皮肤老化。
因此，有必要开发在宽波长范围内阻断射线的一种配方，该配方能阻断IR线和UV线。
发明内容
【技术问题】
本发明的目的在于提供一种涂用在皮肤上从而能够预防红外(IR)线等引起的老化的化妆品组合物。
【技术方案】
在一个一般方面，本发明提供了一种化妆品组合物，包括活性组分，所述活性组分选自胺、酰胺和多元醇中的至少一种。
【有益效果】
根据本发明的实施方式所述的化合物组合物通过阻断紫外(UV)线和红外(IR)线能预防老化，这可广泛用于美容和化妆品领域。
附图说明
参照附图和接下的详细说明，本发明公开的典型实施方式的上述及其他方面、特征和优点显而易见。
图1～4为傅立叶变换红外光谱仪测定红外保护能力结果曲线图；
图5为为傅立叶变换红外光谱仪测定近IR保护能力结果曲线图。
具体实施方式
下面详细描述典型实施方式。然而，本发明可以用不同的配方展示，不应被理解为限于此处展示的典型实施方式。相反地，这些典型实施方式是全面和完整的，将向本领域技术人员充分表达本发明的范围。在描述中，公知特征和技术的细节会省略，以避免与现有的实施方式产生不必要的混淆。
在一方面，按照本发明的一个具体实施方式所述的组合物为化妆品组合物，用来预防和改善老化，包括选自胺、酰胺和多元醇中的至少一种以作为活性成分，。
在一个具体实施方式中，所述化妆品组合物为一种用来预防热老化的组合物，尤其为用来阻断热或近红外(IR)和IR线的组合物。该化妆品组合物可以进一步包含紫外线(UV)阻断剂，同时预防热老化和光老化。例如，按照该实施方式的组合物同时阻断UVA、UVB、近IR和IR线。
在此使用的术语“热老化”是指由热引起的皮肤老化现象，包括当皮肤持续暴露在高温下时发生的皮肤老化和皮肤暴露在IR线时发生的皮肤老化。在需要在长期暴露于高温的地方工作的人、或者长时间呆在韩国干蒸室或桑拿浴室的人中经常可以发现热老化。当皮肤暴露在阳光的IR线中时，也会发生皮肤热老化。特别地，在此之前IR和近IR线被认为是对皮肤没有不良影响。然而，反复暴露在IR和近IR线中引起胶原蛋白合成迅速下降和作为胶原蛋白分解酶的基质金属蛋白酶(MMP)合成增加，导皮肤老化。
在此使用的术语“光老化(photo-aging)”是指暴露在阳光中时发生的皮肤老化，尤其是，暴露在UV线中时发生的皮肤老化。光老化发生现象的典型例子包括如脸、脖子、手臂和手等暴露部位上的浓密深度皱纹，以及如老年斑和色斑等色素沉淀。不同于包含单纯的皮肤变薄和松弛的生物老化，光老化皮肤在上真皮中有类似不正常的弹性纤维的物质。因此，真皮不能履行其支撑皮肤和保持水分的原始功能。UV线直接引起皮肤细胞中的基因的损害，导致皮肤老化、皮肤癌和皮炎，从而引起活性氧化物质大量产生，然后通过氧化进一步老化。因此，抑制胶原蛋白和形成真皮的弹性纤维的形成，以及胶原蛋白分解酶的促进作用，导致胶原和弹性纤维减少。
UV线是指波长小于可见光的电磁波，即，当通过棱镜分散太阳发出的光线时，波长为397-10nm。IR线被称为热射线，而由于UV线的强化学作用，UV线也被称为光化射线。另外，根据其波长范围，UV线可以进一步分成近UV(290nm或者更长)、晶体范围UV(290-190nm，透过水晶的波长范围)、舒曼氏射线(190-120nm)、雷曼射线(120-60nm)以及超X射线(60nm或更短)。波长为190nm或更短的UV线也被称为远UV线。
IR线是指，当通过棱镜分散太阳发出的光线时，出现在红线末端外部的电磁波。IR线的特征是比可见光或UV线更强的热力作用。因此，IR线也可以被称为热射线。根据其波长范围，IR线可以分为近IR(780-3000nm)、IR(3000-25000nm)和远IR(25000nm或更长)。
已经发现，在此公开的化合物组合物能够阻断不能被已知UV阻断剂阻断的IR线(包括近IR和IR线)。
在一个具体实施方式中，包括选自由胺、酰胺和多元醇的至少一种的化妆品组合物，具有阻断近IR和IR线的良好效果，并由下述测试例子予以证明。
在此使用的术语“胺”是含有一个作为官能团的氨基(-NH,-NH2)的化合物的通称。在一个具体实施方式中，胺包含尿素、或其盐或其衍生物。尿素是一种化学式1(CO(NH2)2)表示的有机化合物，无色结晶材料，蛋白质代谢的最终降解产物。
化学式1
在另一个具体实施方式中，胺可以包括选自乙酰氨基葡糖、多聚谷氨酸、吡咯烷酮羧酸(PCA)、丙氨酸、赖氨酸和甘氨酸、或其盐或其衍生物中的至少一种。
按照一个具体实施方式，根据组合物的总重量，胺的含量为0.001-20wt％，更优选为1-10wt％。当含有非常少量的胺时，作为近IR和IR吸收剂的组合物品质低劣，这可以表明预防热老化的效果不佳。另一方面，当含有过量的胺时，组合物会引起皮肤刺激或者使用时触感不佳。
在此使用的术语“酰胺”是含有一个作为官能团的酰胺基(-CONH2)的化合物的通称。在一个具体实施方式中，酰胺可以包含烟酰胺、或其盐或其衍生物。烟酰胺具有化学式2表示的结构式，是一种维生素B复合体。
化学式2
在另一个具体实施方式中，酰胺可以包含至少选自双泛硫氢乙胺和泛酰醇，或者其盐或其衍生物中的至少一种。
按照一个具体实施方式，根据组合物的总重量，酰胺的含量为0.001-20wt％，更优选为1-10wt％。当含有非常少量的酰胺时，作为近IR和IR吸收剂的组合物品质低劣，这可以表明了预防热老化的效果不佳。另一方面，当含有过量的酰胺时，组合物会引起皮肤刺激或者使用时触感不佳。
在此使用的术语“多元醇”是含有多个作为官能团的羟基(-OH)的化合物的通称。在一个具体实施方式中，多元醇可以包含纤维醇、或其盐或其衍生物。纤维醇具有化学式3表示的结构式，是一种具有1,2,3,4,5,6-环己六元醇结构的脂肪族六元醇。
化学式3
在另一个具体实施方式中，多元醇可以包含至少选自赤藻糖醇、甘油、麦芽糖醇、甘露醇、山梨醇、木糖醇、丁二醇、戊二醇和丙二醇、或其盐或其衍生物中的至少一种。
按照一个具体实施方式，根据组合物的总重量，多元醇的含量为0.001wt％或更高，优选为0.001-99.9wt％，更优选为1-10wt％。当含有非常少量的多元醇时，作为近IR和IR吸收剂的组合物品质低劣，这可以表明了预防热老化的效果不佳。另一方面，当含有过量的酰胺时，组合物会引起皮肤刺激或者使用时触感不佳。
在此公开的化妆品组合物预防皮肤热老化。特别地，化妆品组合物预防或阻断皮肤暴露在热、IR和/或近IR线时引起的老化的过程。在一个具体实施方式中，化妆品组合物可以进一步包含UV阻断剂。按照一个具体实施方式，进一步包含UV阻断剂的化妆品组合物同时预防了由IR吸收引起的热老化和由UV吸收引起的光老化。在此对UV阻断剂没有特别的限制，只要其具有阻断UV线的功能。所述UV阻断剂包括有机或无机UV阻断剂。
有机UV阻断剂的具体例子可以包含选自氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯、辛基二甲基对氨基苯甲酸(PABA)、甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、水杨酸辛酯、辛基三嗪酮、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、苯甲酮、氧苯酮、磺异苯酮(sulisobenzone)、二羟苯酮、麦素宁滤光环、恩索利唑、美拉地酯、阿伏苯宗、对甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、二乙基己氧基苯酚、甲氧基苯三嗪和亚甲基二苯并***基四甲基丁基苯酚中的至少一种。无机UV阻断剂的具体例子可以包含选自二氧化钛、三氧化钛、氧化锌、氮化硼、氧化铈和铁氧化物中的至少一种。所述有机或无机UV阻断剂使用没有特别的限制，只要当其加入到此公开的化妆品组合物中时，它们不对预防热老化的效果产生不利影响。
在此公开的化妆品组合物可以表现为各种不同配方，没有特别限制。例如，化妆品组合物可以表现为紧肤水、营养润肤露、营养乳霜、按摩膏、面膜、防晒霜、粉底或隔离霜。在一个具体实施方式中，化妆品组合物可以阻断近IR和IR线。在另一个具体实施方式中，化妆品组合物可以同时阻断UV线和IR线。在第二个具体实施方式中，化妆品组合物可以是一种同时阻断UVA(320-400nm)、UVB(280-320nm)、近IR和IR线的化妆品组合物。对本领域技术人员来说，每一类配方可以用已知方法很容易地得到，例如通过选择除由预期用途决定的必不可少的原料之外各种原料。
【用于发明的模式】
下面将描述实施例和实验。下述实施例和实验只用于进行说明，并不限制本发明的范围。
实施例1-11和对比例
实施例1-11和对比例的化妆品组合物通过下述表1和2所示原料制备得到。
表1
表2
测试例1——IR阻断能力的测定
测定根据实施例1-11和比较例所述的组合物的红外(IR)保护能力。特别地，IR保护能力通过傅里叶变换红外光谱仪Tensor27(购自BrukerCo.)。用于分析的样品为颗粒配方，通过测量每个样品的信号来进行测试。测试结果如图1-4所示，其中，X轴为波长范围，单位为波值(cm-1)。
根据图1-4，在IR范围内的较低信号是指较高IR阻断能力。可以看出，与对比例的组合物相比，实施例1-11的化妆品组合物具有较高的IR保护能力。
测试例2近IR吸收的测定
测定根据实施例1-11和比较例所述的组合物的近IR保护能力。特别地，近IR保护能力通过傅里叶变换红外光谱仪Tensor27(购自BrukerCo.)。用于分析的样品为颗粒配方，通过测量每个样品的信号来进行测试.测试结果如图5所示，其中，X轴为波长范围，单位为波值(cm-1)。
根据图1-4，在近IR范围内的较低信号是指较高近IR阻断能力。可以看出，与对比例的组合物相比，实施例1-3的化妆品组合物具有较高的近IR保护能力。特别地，实施例2和3的化妆品组合物在4000-10000cm-1范围内阻断近红外线最多。
下面描述样品的配方例子。然而，在此公开的化妆品组合物可以用不同于下文中描述的形式的各种形式配制。下述配方例子仅用于进行说明，并不限制本发明的范围。
配方例子1乳液
| 纤维醇(实施例3) | 3.00 |
| 2-磷酸L-抗坏血酸镁 | 1.00 |
| 水溶性胶原蛋白(1％水溶液) | 1.00 |
| 柠檬酸钠 | 0.10 |
| 柠檬酸 | 0.05 |
| 甘草浸液 | 0.20 |
| 1,3-丁二醇 | 3.00 |
| 去离子水 | 余量 |
| 单位：wt％ |
配方例子2乳霜
| 烟酰胺(实施例2) | 1.00 |
| 聚乙二醇单硬脂酸酯 | 2.00 |
| 自乳化单硬脂酸甘油酯 | 5.00 |
| 十六烷醇 | 4.00 |
| 角鲨烯 | 6.00 |
| 三2-乙基己酸甘油酯 | 6.00 |
| 神经鞘糖脂类 | 1.00 |
| 1,3-丁二醇 | 7.00 |
| 去离子水 | 余量 |
| 单位：wt％ |
配方例子3面膜
| 尿素(实施例1) | 5.00 |
| 聚乙烯醇 | 13.00 |
| 2-磷酸L-抗坏血酸镁 | 1.00 |
| 十二酰羟脯氨酸 | 1.00 |
| 水溶性胶原蛋白(1％水溶液) | 2.00 |
| 1,3-丁二醇 | 3.00 |
| 乙醇 | 5.00 |
| 去离子水 | 余量 |
| 单位：wt％ |
配方例子4精华
| 纤维醇(实施例3) | 2.00 |
| 羟基乙基纤维素(2％水溶液) | 12.00 |
| 黄原胶(2％水溶液) | 2.00 |
| 1,3-丁二醇 | 6.00 |
| 甘油 | 4.00 |
| 透明质酸钠(1％水溶液) | 5.00 |
| 去离子水 | 余量 |
| 单位：wt％ |
对典型实施方式进行了显示和描述，本领域技术人员应该理解的是，只要不脱离所附权利要求所限定的本发明的精神和范围，可在形式和细节上的进行各种变化。
另外，在不脱离其基本范围，为了适应于特定的情况或材料，可以对本发明的教义进行多种修改。因此，这意味着本发明并不受限于特定的具体实施方式，该具体实施方式是作为实施本发明的最佳模式公开，但是本发明包括落在所附权利要求范围内的所有具体实施方式。
Claims (12)
1.一种化妆品组合物包含选自胺、酰胺和多元醇中的至少一种，以作为用于预防皮肤老化的活性成分。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其预防热老化。
3.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其阻断热；或者近红外(IR)和IR线。
4.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其进一步包含紫外(UV)阻断剂。
5.根据权利要求4所述的化妆品组合物，其同时预防热老化和光老化。
6.根据权利要求4所述的化妆品组合物，其同时阻断UVA、UVB、近IR和IR线。
7.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，根据组合物的总重量，其含有0.001-20wt％的胺。
8.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，胺为选自尿素、乙酰氨基葡糖、多聚谷氨酸、吡咯烷酮羧酸(PCA)、丙氨酸、赖氨酸和甘氨酸、其盐和其衍生物中的至少一种。
9.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，根据组合物的总重量，其含有0.001-20wt％的酰胺。
10.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，酰胺选自烟酰胺、双泛硫氢乙胺和泛酰醇，其盐和其衍生物中的至少一种。
11.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，根据组合物的总重量，其含有0.001-99.9wt％的多元醇。
12.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品组合物，其特征在于，多元醇选自纤维醇、赤藻糖醇、甘油、麦芽糖醇、甘露醇、山梨醇、木糖醇、丁二醇、戊二醇和丙二醇、其盐和其衍生物中的至少一种。
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2011
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- 2011-06-22 CN CN201610066623.8A patent/CN105708732A/zh active Pending
- 2011-06-22 US US13/807,665 patent/US20130121937A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2011-06-22 WO PCT/KR2011/004546 patent/WO2012002669A2/en active Application Filing
- 2011-06-22 JP JP2013518235A patent/JP5975989B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2011-06-22 EP EP11801076.8A patent/EP2600824B1/en active Active
- 2011-06-22 SG SG2012093605A patent/SG186403A1/en unknown
- 2011-06-22 CN CN2011800323642A patent/CN103037834A/zh active Pending
- 2011-06-28 TW TW100122526A patent/TWI510268B/zh not_active IP Right Cessation
-
2015
- 2015-12-18 US US14/975,243 patent/US20160101030A1/en not_active Abandoned
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| WO2000051551A2 (en) * | 1999-03-03 | 2000-09-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care compositions |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US10722436B2 (en) | 2015-08-10 | 2020-07-28 | Mary Kay Inc. | Topical compositions |
| US11179305B2 (en) | 2015-08-10 | 2021-11-23 | Mary Kay Inc. | Topical compositions |
| US20190290575A1 (en) | 2018-03-23 | 2019-09-26 | Mary Kay Inc. | Topical compositions and methods |
| US11701322B2 (en) | 2018-03-23 | 2023-07-18 | Mary Kay Inc. | Topical compositions and methods |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP5975989B2 (ja) | 2016-08-24 |
| EP2600824A4 (en) | 2016-03-09 |
| SG186403A1 (en) | 2013-01-30 |
| WO2012002669A2 (en) | 2012-01-05 |
| EP2600824B1 (en) | 2020-06-10 |
| EP2600824A2 (en) | 2013-06-12 |
| KR101275351B1 (ko) | 2013-06-17 |
| TW201201878A (en) | 2012-01-16 |
| JP2013529681A (ja) | 2013-07-22 |
| US20130121937A1 (en) | 2013-05-16 |
| TWI510268B (zh) | 2015-12-01 |
| CN103037834A (zh) | 2013-04-10 |
| US20160101030A1 (en) | 2016-04-14 |
| KR20120001597A (ko) | 2012-01-04 |
| WO2012002669A3 (en) | 2012-04-26 |
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