CN105506963B - 一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN105506963B
CN105506963B CN201511015722.5A CN201511015722A CN105506963B CN 105506963 B CN105506963 B CN 105506963B CN 201511015722 A CN201511015722 A CN 201511015722A CN 105506963 B CN105506963 B CN 105506963B
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chitosan
ludox
dressing liquid
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wool fabric
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CN105506963A (zh
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赵军伟
林红
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Suzhou Golden Bird Textile Co ltd
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Jiangyin Changjing Garden Wool Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，包括羊毛面料预处理、配置壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液、整理、干燥和粘合等步骤。本发明通过采用壳聚糖溶液对内层羊毛面料形成保护作用，使其在经低温气氛中等离子处理后纤维表面损伤不大，对羊毛纤维原有的拒水性能影响不大；通过将壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液整理到内层羊毛面料的一侧表面，整理液中的组分之间发生缩合反应，在羊毛面料的表面交联成具有一定刚性的薄膜，使羊毛面料具有单面抗毡缩的性能，将上述内层羊毛面料与轻薄的外层羊毛面料复合，可获得毡缩性能优良的双面呢。

Description

一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法。
背景技术
羊毛具有弹性好、吸湿性强、保暖性好、光泽柔和等许多优良特性。毛面料的风格高贵、服用性能优越。然而，未经整理的羊毛面料在水洗时经不断挤压、揉搓下会发生毡缩，从而引起面料尺寸缩小、呢面发毛、织纹混乱等外观变化，上述变化不断积累会影响面料的外观和服用性能，在一定程度上限制了羊毛的应用领域。毛面料毡缩的原因，传统的观点认为主要是由羊毛鳞片层结构所引起的定向摩擦效应和羊毛的卷曲、弹性所造成。因此，防止羊毛面料毡缩的方法便是建立在如何减少定向摩擦效应以及改变羊毛单方向运动倾向的基础上，归纳起来有破坏鳞片层和使聚合物(或称树脂)沉积在纤维表面这两个方面。
CN104153195A中公开了一种先采用三(2-羧乙基)膦(TCEP)对羊毛面料进行前处理，使羊毛纤维角蛋白中的二硫键断裂形成具有较高活性的巯基，然后使2-丙烯酸-(2-羟基-1，3-亚丙基)二[氧基(2-羟基-3，1-亚丙基)]酯(GDA)与经过TCEP前处理的羊毛面料反应，即碳碳双键与巯基发生反应，通过化学键合法将富含羟基的分子链引入到羊毛蛋白质分子中，经过处理后的制品具有防毡缩功能。CN 103031704 B则公开了一种采用超声波作用下对羊毛面料进行氯化预处理，然后依次经还原脱氯、酶处理和酶失活处理步骤，且氯化预处理与酶处理的结合，有效地提高了纤维纵向的剥鳞均匀性，从而达到了羊毛面料的防毡缩效果。上述两种方法涵盖了两种防毡缩处理的方法，前者在羊毛表面引入接枝基团，面料的手感会因为涂层的存在而受到显着影响，后者不可避免的会导致纤维结构松弛。虽然羊毛鳞片层具有在湿热、化学试剂或外力条件下使羊毛具有缩绒性或毡缩性，但是其结构坚韧，使羊毛具有抗摩损性、抗污染性且色泽柔的特点，其成分天然，且具有天然的拒水性，应得到一定程度的利用。因此，有必要对现有技术中的防毡缩双面呢的制备方法进行优化。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的缺陷，提供一种的整理前后纤维结构松紧变化小，保留单面羊毛优良性能的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法。
为实现上述技术效果，本发明的技术方案为：一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
S1：对内层羊毛面料的A面单面刮涂壳聚糖酸溶液，壳聚糖酸溶液中的壳聚糖浓度为2～5％，自然干燥，清洗烘干，将内层羊毛面料置于低温气氛中等离子处理；
S2：配置壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化硅、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5～5，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5～3％，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的硅含量为0.4～2％；
S3：将内层羊毛面料的B面喷水浸湿，将S2所得壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液涂布在内层羊毛面料的浸湿面上并略向面料内部渗透；
S4：对S3所得面料室温下自然干燥；
S5：将内层羊毛面料与外层羊毛面料通过胶粘剂粘合，烘干得夹芯式防毡缩双面呢。
S1中的壳聚糖包覆在羊毛面料的一侧表面，低温等离子处理羊毛时，壳聚糖成膜对羊毛的表层起到一定的保护作用，高能粒子轰击纤维表面，对羊毛的浅表层产生刻蚀作用，而未经壳聚糖预处理的另一侧表面等高能粒子轰击后刻蚀作用明显，羊毛纤维表面的疏水酯体层被破坏，润湿性能明显增加，并且在纤维表面引入了极性基团；壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液充分渗透至羊毛纤维中，高分子的壳聚糖交联形成稳定的网状结构，硅溶胶的羟基、壳聚糖的羧基、氨基和羊毛纤维表面的极性基团交联成膜，硅溶胶胶粒被绑缚在壳聚糖网状结构中，导致交联生成的膜兼具壳聚糖膜的柔性和硅溶胶成膜的刚性，因此单面硅溶胶处理后的羊毛面料具有防止面料毡缩的性能。S3中先将内层羊毛面料的B面喷水浸湿，然后涂布硅溶胶，通过水中氢键的吸附，可引导整理液中的硅溶胶向面料中少量渗透，增加成膜后的薄膜与面料之间的粘接界面，从而增加两者之间的粘接强度。
通过将经壳聚糖硅溶胶处理后的内层羊毛面料的B面与外层羊毛面料一体式粘接，与皮肤接触的内层羊毛面料的A面制得成衣后，A面经壳聚糖预处理，壳聚糖具有优良的抑菌和吸湿保湿性能，将硅溶胶处理面作为衣物内表面，可以适用于贴身穿着，透气性优良，而且壳聚糖包覆后的羊毛面料比未处理的羊毛手感更顺滑。
优选的技术方案为，S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为氨气，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为100～150W，处理时间为20～50s。采用氨气作为等离子处理非聚合性气体，可以在羊毛表面接枝大量的氨基，不仅可以有效提高羊毛面料表面的亲水性能，接枝引入的氨基可与壳聚糖的活性羧基脱水缩合形成稳定的交联结构，有助于增强面料表面膜体的耐水洗性能。
为了保证羊毛胶粘强度和面料的使用寿命，优选的技术方案为，S5中的胶粘剂为PUR热熔胶，胶粘剂的涂布方式为点胶。PUR热熔胶的端-NCO可与壳聚糖硅溶胶所形成的薄膜表面的亲水氨基和羟基生成耐水性较好的脲键和甲酸酯键，脲键间的氢键作用会进一步增强热熔胶的粘接强度。
优选的技术方案为，S2中壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向水玻璃中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入水玻璃溶液中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5～20min；有机酸为选自C3～C6的二元酸和多元酸中的至少一种。酸性条件下壳聚糖充分溶解，超声震荡有助于使硅溶胶颗粒均匀分散在壳聚糖溶液中，有机酸在线型分子之间起架桥作用，可作为交联剂参与壳聚糖相互键合交联生成复杂的网状结构，最终烘干成膜。
优选的技术方案为，所述壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中还含有成膜剂，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2～2％，所述成膜剂为水溶性树脂。水溶性树脂参与壳聚糖的交联反应，增加成膜物质所形成的薄膜与面料之间的界面粘接牢度，有助于调节薄膜的弹性和柔软性，使之与面料的弹性和柔软性相一致。
优选的技术方案为，所述水溶性树脂为选自聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂中的至少一种。聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂均能增加壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的粘性和流变性能，而且，上述三种树脂中所含的疏水组分有助于提高面料表面所成薄膜的疏水性，阻止渗入面料表面的水分进一步向面料内部渗透，保证穿着者的服用舒适性。
进一步优选的技术方案为，所述水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80～95％。乳香树脂与聚氨酯树脂同时加入，两者混合交联分散在壳聚糖和硅溶胶形成壳聚糖网状结构中，有助于增加薄膜的透明度，另外还可以使面料具有一定的保健香氛功能。
为了进一步改进在面料表面所形成的薄膜的柔软性，优选的技术方案为，所述壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.05～0.5％。羟基增塑剂的氢键与壳聚糖的活性氨基发生氢键作用，替代了原有的壳聚糖分子链之间或壳聚糖与硅溶胶氢键之间的极性连接，降低膜内刚性连接点的数量，从而使薄膜更柔软疏松，增加面料的透气性，进而增强面料的服用舒适性。
进一步有选的技术方案为，所述羟基增塑剂为甘油和/或乙二醇。采用小分子的甘油和/或乙二醇，更容易进入壳聚糖分子间之间占据连接点，相比之下，由于乙二醇的分子更小，因此使用在壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中得到的薄膜兼具良好的透气性和拒水性。
本发明的优点和有益效果在于：
本发明通过采用壳聚糖溶液对内层羊毛面料形成保护作用，使其在经低温气氛中等离子处理后纤维表面损伤不大，对羊毛纤维原有的拒水性能影响不大；
通过将壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液整理到内层羊毛面料的一侧表面，整理液中的组分之间发生缩合反应，在羊毛面料的表面交联成具有一定刚性的薄膜，使羊毛面料具有单面抗毡缩的性能，将上述内层羊毛面料与轻薄的外层羊毛面料复合，可获得毡缩性能优良的双面呢；
内层羊毛面料表面形成的薄膜还具有与面料相适应的柔性，膜层与面料之间的粘接面积大，粘接强度良好，薄膜粘接羊毛面料的使用寿命长；
壳聚糖本身的抗菌、吸湿特点，因此整理后的羊毛面料具有手感好、抗菌、吸湿透气等优点。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1：
实施例1的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
S1：对内层羊毛面料的A面单面刮涂壳聚糖酸溶液，壳聚糖酸溶液中的壳聚糖浓度为2％，自然干燥，清洗烘干，将羊毛面料至于低温气氛中等离子处理；
S2：配置壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化硅、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的pH至为5，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5％，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的硅含量为2％；
S3：将内层羊毛面料的B面喷水浸湿，将S2所得壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液涂布在内层羊毛面料的浸湿面上并略向面料内部渗透；
S4：对S3所得面料室温下自然干燥；
S5：将内层羊毛面料的B面与外层羊毛面料通过胶粘剂粘合，烘干得夹芯式防毡缩双面呢。
实施例1基于正硅酸乙酯制备二氧化硅水溶胶，具体制备方法为：将一定量制备好的甲酸和水的混合溶液逐滴加入到正硅酸乙酯中，超声振荡60min取出，转移到恒温水浴容器中，在50℃下搅拌约30min，直到得到均匀透明的溶胶，然后陈化一段时间待用。
S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为空气，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为90W，处理时间为120s；S3中的涂布方式为圆网涂布；壳聚糖酸溶液的组成为壳聚糖、甲酸和水。
实施例1的S5中的胶粘剂为PUR热熔胶，胶粘剂的涂布方式为点胶。
实施例2
实施例2基于实施例1，区别在于：壳聚糖酸溶液中的壳聚糖浓度为5％；壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为3％，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的硅含量为0.4％。
S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为氩气，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为200W，处理时间为20s。
S2中壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向水玻璃中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入水玻璃溶液中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡20min；有机酸为衣康酸；S3中的涂布方式为转移涂布。
实施例3
实施例3基于实施例2，区别在于：壳聚糖酸溶液中的壳聚糖浓度为3.5％；壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的pH至为4.2，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为1.7％，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的硅含量为1.2％。
S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为氨气，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为100W，处理时间为100s。
S2中壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向水玻璃中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入水玻璃溶液中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5min；有机酸为柠檬酸；S3中的涂布方式为转移涂布。
实施例4
实施例4与实施例3的区别为：S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为选自氩气、氧气、氮气、氨气中的至少一种，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为150W，处理时间为60s。
S2中壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向水玻璃中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入水玻璃溶液中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡12min；有机酸为苹果酸；S3中的涂布方式为刮涂。
壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2％，成膜剂为水溶性松香树脂。
实施例5
实施例5与实施例4的区别为：施加电压放电功率为125W，处理时间为40s。
壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为2％，成膜剂为水溶性树脂。水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80％。
壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中增塑剂甘油的重量百分比为0.05％。
实施例6
实施例6与实施例5的区别为：壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为1％，水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为95％。
壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中增塑剂乙二醇的重量百分比为0.5％。
实施例7
实施例7与实施例6的区别为：水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为87％。
壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.25％。增塑剂选用甘油与乙二醇1:1混合而成。
对比例
对比例直接采用外层羊毛面料与内层羊毛面料通过PUR热熔胶粘合。
内层面料采用较厚的羊毛面料，外层面料采用轻薄型羊毛面料，外层羊毛面料的克重为内层羊毛面料克重的1/2～1/3之间。
实施例和对比例试样检测：
1、根据国际羊毛纺织品组织(IWTO)的测试方法TM31对未经处理的和处理后的双面呢的防毡缩性能进行评价。羊毛的松弛收缩率要服从于7A标准，其次要进行5次连续的5A水洗。实验结果为羊毛面料松弛后的毡缩百分比；
2、采用KES-F织物风格仪对双面呢的手感进行检测(Ⅰ～Ⅴ级，Ⅰ级柔软度最优)；
3、耐洗性能测试：按照AATCC 61-2003洗涤不褪色，家用和商用：加速方法测定。
4、根据AATCC-2003标准，用连通管型水压仪测定试样的耐净水压性能。
试样检测值见下表：
对比例由于未采用硅溶胶整理，因此其柔软度优良，但是其静水压表现较差，且多次水洗之后静水压压降明显。
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (10)

1.一种夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
S1：对内层羊毛面料的A面单面刮涂壳聚糖酸溶液，壳聚糖酸溶液中的壳聚糖浓度为2～5%，自然干燥，清洗烘干，将内层羊毛面料置于低温气氛中等离子处理；
S2：配置壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的主要组成为壳聚糖、二氧化硅、有机多元酸、水，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的pH至为3.5～5，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中壳聚糖的重量百分比为0.5～3%，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的硅含量为0.4～2%；
S3：将内层羊毛面料的B面喷水浸湿，将S2所得壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液涂布在内层羊毛面料的浸湿面上并略向面料内部渗透；
S4：对S3所得面料室温下自然干燥；
S5：将内层羊毛面料的B面与外层羊毛面料通过胶粘剂粘合，烘干得夹芯式防毡缩双面呢。
2.根据权利要求1所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为选自氩气、氧气、氮气、氨气中的至少一种，施加电压放电频率为13. 75MHz，功率为100～200W，处理时间为20～100s。
3.根据权利要求2所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，S1中低温等离子处理工序中，等离子处理装置腔内非聚合性气体为氨气，施加电压放电频率为13.75MHz，功率为100～150W，处理时间为20～50s。
4.根据权利要求1所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，S5中的胶粘剂为PUR热熔胶，胶粘剂的涂布方式为点胶。
5.根据权利要求1所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，S2中壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液的制备过程为：将壳聚糖溶解于有机酸水溶液中的壳聚糖混合溶液，向水玻璃中加水稀释，然后将壳聚糖混合溶液搅拌下加入水玻璃溶液中，用有机酸调节pH值，超声振荡5～20min；有机酸为选自C3～C6的二元酸和多元酸中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，所述壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中还含有成膜剂，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中成膜剂的重量百分比为0.2～2%，所述成膜剂为水溶性树脂。
7.根据权利要求6所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，所述水溶性树脂为选自聚氨酯树脂、松香树脂和乳香树脂中的至少一种。
8.根据权利要求7所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，所述水溶性树脂由聚氨酯树脂和乳香树脂混合而成，水溶性树脂中聚氨酯树脂的含量为80～95%。
9.根据权利要求6所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，所述壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液还包含羟基增塑剂，壳聚糖硅溶胶整理液中增塑剂的重量百分比为0.05～0.5%。
10.根据权利要求9所述的夹芯式防毡缩双面呢的制备方法，其特征在于，所述羟基增塑剂为甘油和/或乙二醇。
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