CN104562350B - Method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk Download PDFInfo
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- CN104562350B CN104562350B CN201510036116.5A CN201510036116A CN104562350B CN 104562350 B CN104562350 B CN 104562350B CN 201510036116 A CN201510036116 A CN 201510036116A CN 104562350 B CN104562350 B CN 104562350B
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- silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk, and belongs to the field of technologies for processing textile yarns. The method includes mulberry color yarn processing, doubling, wrapping and twisting and wrapped twisted yarn setting and precision spooling. Mulberry color yarn processing includes carrying out whitening and post-whitening dyeing on 23dtex mulberry yarns f2 S 300 and then carrying out reeling on the 23dtex mulberry yarns f2 S 300 to obtain 23dtex mulberry color yarns f2 S 300. Doubling includes doubling on the mulberry color yarns and 50D vinylon filament yarns in an untwisted manner under the condition of 19CN tension to obtain untwisted doubled yarns. Wrapping and twisting include winding the untwisted doubled yarns on the surfaces of the 20D spandex by the aid of 12CN wrapping tension, controlling drafting quantities of the 20D spandex and twisting the untwisted doubled yarns and the 20D spandex to obtain wrapped twisted yarns with the density of 1750 twists/meter. Wrapped twisted yarn setting includes setting the wrapped twisted yarns by means of dry blowing for 30 min at the dry blowing setting temperature of 60 DEG C. Precision spooling includes spooling the wrapped twisted yarns under the condition of 16CN tension after the wrapped twisted yarns are set by means of dry blowing, and returning cheese yarns after the wrapped twisted yarns are completely spooled. The method has the advantages that the method is high in feasibility and efficiency, and yarn dyeing requirements on elastic silk fabrics can be met by the wrapped twisted yarns manufactured by the aid of the method.
Description
[technical field]
The production method the present invention relates to a kind of looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread, belongs to textile yarn treatment technology neck
Domain.
[background technology]
Theory along with consuming public and the change of sight, and the raising of level of consumption, color-woven fabric elastic force kind
Widelyd popularize, guiding people pursue to the clothing of comfortable and polynary color and the consumption of clothing fabric.
Silk elastic fabric is applied to the garment material of top grade, such as: nightwear, shirt, sportswear, swimsuit fabric, it
Solve that to there is suture sliding in use be that suture drapes over one's shoulders and splits phenomenon, and overcome business suit institute in dress, motor process
The tight feeling existing is so that dress is light, comfortable, thus taking is strong.
But the broadwise silk elastic fabric in prior art stage is only plain color product, after real silk blank textile passes through refining in vain
Dyeed again, obtained monochromatic fabric.Wherein,
Warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel is using the cladding being composited with spandex core filaments without the mulberry silk of degumming
Line, this covering thread, through decatize high-temperature shaping, promotes the sericin coating spandex securely of mulberry silk, through weaving the real silk bullet obtaining
Power fabric carries out degumming process, more dyed process, obtains real silk plain color (being commonly called as a sight) elastic fabric, because its color is pure
Essence is it is impossible to meet abundant serious hope to silk elastic fabric in terms of color for the people, thus limiting the wide of silk elastic fabric
General application.
The production of real-silk dyed elastic fabric does not all appear in the newspapers with external relevant magazine, professional magazine, data at home
Road, color parallel (looping of the real silk looping spandex is twisted thread) producer before the present invention makes, for real-silk dyed elastic fabric
Method, also someone does not develop.
[content of the invention]
The production method it is an object of the invention to provide a kind of looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread, this looping is twisted thread producer
Method exploitativeness is strong, production efficiency is high, twists thread by the looping of the inventive method processing and can meet the knitting of color of silk elastic fabric.
For solving above-mentioned technical problem, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme that
The looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, including and silk, looping twisting, looping twist thread sizing and accurate network
Cylinder, and also include the processing of Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk before simultaneously silk, described Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk processing is through refining by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 s 300
Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) refines after stain silk, then to go into cylinder be 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2s 300;And silk be by 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 with
50d polyvinyl long filament is under the conditions of yarn-doubling tension 19cn through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying;Looping twisting is will be non-twist and close
Silk is wound into 20d spandex surface with 12cn looping tension force in bag winding machine and wire, and the looping that twisting becomes 1750 twists/m is twisted thread, bag
Twine the drawing-off amount controlling 20d spandex in twisting process;The sizing of twisting thread of described looping is looping to be twisted thread carry out dry blowing sizing, does
Steam setting temperature and the time is respectively 60 DEG C, 30min;Precision becomes the looping that cylinder is after dry blowing is shaped to twist thread
Become cylinder under the conditions of 16cn, become cylinder to finish and carry out cheese reply.
As preferential, in looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and 20d spandex becomes after drawing-off
7.4d spandex core filaments.
Compared with prior art, advantages of the present invention and having the beneficial effect that:
The looping of real silk looping spandex provided by the present invention is twisted thread production method, and the processing of Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk can meet real silk bullet
The knitting of color of power fabric;And silk using polyvinyl long filament under rational yarn-doubling tension with Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk through non-twist and synthesize non-twist
And plying, non-twist and plying is neither too hard, nor too soft, move back Jie during rear road looping smoothly, solve non-twist and plying well in rear road and ammonia
During synthetic fibre looping, a difficult problem for polyvinyl long filament easily broken end;Further, the optimal design-aside of looping tension force and and plying in dimension
The reasonable selection of synthetic fibre filament fineness, promotes looping smoothly, and polyvinyl filament breakage is few;And setting process adopt dry blowing sizing and
Select rational styling condition, this not only avoids the adhesion between polyvinyl long filament, and guarantee to be wound around polyvinyl long filament up
It is bonded to spandex surface securely, and makes self-control looping parallel become cylinder smoothly, supply latitude when being conducive to rear road color to knit smoothly, weaving
Staplings rate is low;Thus embody looping of the present invention and twist thread that productibility is strong, the feature of efficiency high.
Twist thread by the looping of the inventive method processing, produce color parallel used for real-silk dyed elastic fabric, color is knitted
Rear fabric is collated to obtain real-silk dyed elastic fabric new varieties, and it is brand-new that this fabric new varieties has expanded silk rubbery product
One class fancy, has started the beginning that real silk stretch fabric color is knitted, and so that the real silk rubbery product of general plain color is sent out to multicolor
Exhibition, thus meet people well crave for silk elastic fabric colorful color aspect.
[specific embodiment]
The looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, including and silk, looping twisting, looping twist thread sizing and accurate network
Cylinder, and also include the processing of Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk before simultaneously silk, described Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk processing is through refining by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 s 300
Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) refines after stain silk, then to go into cylinder be 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2s 300;And silk be by 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 with
50d polyvinyl long filament is under the conditions of yarn-doubling tension 19cn through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying;Looping twisting is will be non-twist and close
Silk is wound into 20d spandex surface with 12cn looping tension force in bag winding machine and wire, and the looping that twisting becomes 1750 twists/m is twisted thread, bag
Twine the drawing-off amount controlling 20d spandex in twisting process;The sizing of twisting thread of described looping is looping to be twisted thread carry out dry blowing sizing, does
Steam setting temperature and the time is respectively 60 DEG C, 30min;Precision becomes the looping that cylinder is after dry blowing is shaped to twist thread
Become cylinder under the conditions of 16cn, become cylinder to finish and carry out cheese reply.
As preferential embodiment, in looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and 20d spandex is through leading
Become 7.4d spandex core filaments after stretching.
Twist thread by the looping of the inventive method processing, produce the embodiment of real-silk dyed elastic fabric as color parallel
As follows:
Determine web process specification, looping twist thread processing, looping twist thread dry blowing sizing, looping twist thread precision wind, color knit,
Fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement and high temperature stentering forming operation.Wherein, looping twist thread manufacturing procedure include Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk processing, Bombyxmori Linnaeuss
The non-twist and silk of color silk and polyvinyl long filament and looping twining steps;The preparation of warp raw material and warp beam is also included before color is knitted.
1st, in web process specifications design, using five heddle satin tissue, finished product end count is 115/cm to tissue, finished product latitude
Close is 44/cm, and finished door width is 108cm, and finished product thickness is 16.5m/m.
2nd, looping is twisted thread processing
Twist thread in manufacturing procedure in looping, carried out using 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 and 50d polyvinyl long filament non-twist
And silk, the method being wound into 20d spandex surface after non-twist and silk again is processed.
2.1 and silk before Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk processing
Raw material adopts 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300, is carried out refining white process, carries out contaminating silk, this dyeing after refining is white
Mulberry silk carries out into an operation, as 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 on becoming cylinder machine.
When refining white, refining liquid adopts the ar-617 silk scouring agent that Zhong Fang auxiliary reagent factory produces.
2.2 Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silks and the non-twist and silk of polyvinyl long filament
23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 is carried out non-twist and silk with 50d polyvinyl long filament under yarn-doubling tension 19cn, and
10 grammes per square metres hammers are hung on silk machine, obtain bobbin hardness be 22 and twist with the fingers and plying.
Table 1:23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300 is selected with the simultaneously silk parameter of 50d polyvinyl long filament
Method | Yarn-doubling tension | Bobbin hardness | Result |
6 grammes per square metre hammers | 13cn | 16 | Bobbin is softer, and rear road looping operation is moved back solution and had some setbacks, and broken end is many. |
10 grammes per square metre hammers | 19cn | 22 | Bobbin is neither too hard, nor too soft, and rear road looping operation moves back solution smoothly, and broken end is little. |
14 grammes per square metre hammers | 23cn | 28 | Bobbin hardness fit can, it is more smooth that rear road looping operation moves back solution, and broken end is less. |
Table 1 illustrates: adopts three kinds of different grammes per square metre weights and corresponding three kinds of differential tensions from this table, three kinds obtaining through simultaneously silk
The non-twist and plying bobbin of different hardness, and silk parameter preferably selects 10 grammes per square metre hammers, 19cn yarn-doubling tension and bobbin hardness 22.
2.3 looping twisting:
The non-twist and plying obtaining through step 2.2 is wound under the conditions of looping tension force 12cn by bag winding machine and wire
20d spandex surface, controls the drawing-off amount of 20d spandex in looping twisting process, and twisting becomes z 1750t/m and s 1750t/
Two kinds of loopings of m are twisted thread, this two kinds identical looping twists but difference twist with the fingers to looping twist thread, make respectively when subsequently supplying latitude weaving
Use with second latitude for first latitude.
During looping (twisting), the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and that is, the drawing-off of 20d spandex is to 7.4d.
Table 2: using the non-twist and plying of different fineness polyvinyl long filament and the looping situation of 20d spandex
Drafting multiple | Polyvinyl long filament (d) | Tension force (cn) | Bobbin hardness | Result |
2.7 | 50 | 12 | 20 | Polyvinyl long filament little breakage. |
2.7 | 75 | 20 | 26 | Polyvinyl filament breakage is many. |
2.7 | 100 | 25 | 35 | Polyvinyl filament breakage too many it is impossible to looping. |
Table 2 illustrates: when polyvinyl filament fineness selects 50d, the nothing collectively constituting with 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300
Twist with the fingers and plying is when carrying out looping, polyvinyl long filament little breakage, be conducive to looping smooth.
3rd, looping twist thread dry blowing sizing
Looping is twisted thread dry blowing sizing is carried out on forming machine, 60 DEG C of dry blowing setting temperature, dry blowing shaping time 30min,
So that it is guaranteed that not occurring inter-adhesive between polyvinyl long filament, polyvinyl long filament is bonded to spandex surface securely simultaneously.
Table 3: the sizing result twisted thread using the looping of different fineness polyvinyl in the case of having unformed medium
Conclusion: when with wet steaming sizing, occur inter-adhesive between polyvinyl long filament, during rear road precision wind, rewinding has some setbacks;
When being shaped, prevent the generation of adhesion phenomenon with dry blowing.
4th, looping twist thread accurate become cylinder
Looping after dry blowing is shaped is twisted thread and is carried out into an operation on accurate one-tenth cylinder machine, and one-tenth cylinder tension force is 16cn, lower machine
After replied, waiting looming weaving supply latitude used by.
Table 4: the looping comprising 50d polyvinyl long filament is twisted thread, and it becomes cylinder parameter setting
Method | Become cylinder tension force | Bobbin hardness | Result |
6 grammes per square metre hammers | 10cn | 14 | Bobbin hardness is softer, moves back solution and have some setbacks during weaving, and broken end is many. |
10 grammes per square metre hammers | 16cn | 21 | Solution is moved back smoothly, little breakage during weaving. |
16 grammes per square metre hammers | 24cn | 32 | Bobbin is harder, easily breaks, and weaving is not smooth. |
5th, warp beam warping
Warp raw material adopts 23dtex to soak mulberry silk f1 s 800 × 2 z 700, and this warp raw material is after refining Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) refining
Dye silk and become cylinder, leads (color silk) bobbin as in warping, and 11990 are led bobbin, and to be installed to German zgm3800 article points whole
Through warping is carried out on machine, warping technology condition: upper distraction force is 2.5 cn~3cn, upper shaft tension force is 30 cn~33cn, warping
Quality condition: often whole 50 circles check, broken end number of times is few, and easy upper shaft is difficult silk pressing, and warping finishes and obtains warp beam.
6th, color is knitted
Parallel combines using the z being made up of 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300,50d polyvinyl long filament and 20d spandex
Two kinds of loopings of 1750t/m and s 1750t/m are twisted thread, i.e. first latitude: (23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2s 300+50d polyvinyl long filament+
20d spandex) z 1750t/m looping twists thread;Second latitude: (23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s 300+50d polyvinyl long filament+20d spandex) s
1750t/m looping is twisted thread.Weaving process condition: warp tension 28cn~32cn, upper machine end count is 75/cm, and upper machine filling density is
42.5/cm, five stricture of vagina satin weaves, reed porter is No. 15 reeds, and reed penetration number is 5 teeth/cm, and upper gate width is 160cm, picking
Order is two shuttle first latitudes and the circulation of two shuttle second latitudes, i.e. parallel arrangement: first latitude first latitude second latitude second latitude ..., or is arranged as second latitude
Second latitude first latitude first latitude ....
The warp of upper machine warp beam is combined on dobby machine with parallel group to be weaved, obtain after lower machine a width be 158.5cm,
Green compact weight is the fabric of 101g/m.
Color is twisted thread using different loopings before knitting and has been carried out weaving test, and the polyvinyl filament fineness during that is, looping is twisted thread is respectively
Sample is carried out using 50d, 75d, 100d:
When polyvinyl long filament is 50d, the Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk in being twisted thread due to looping is essentially identical with polyvinyl long filament thickness, in Mulberry
After silkworm color silk, polyvinyl long filament silk again with spandex looping, the positive and negative internal stress that looping is twisted thread remains basically stable, weaving performance smoothly,
Silk fabric face is more smooth, comfortable, and fabric prevents that to drape over one's shoulders fragility good.
When polyvinyl long filament is 75d, the polyvinyl long filament in being twisted thread due to looping is thicker than Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk, and weaving is smooth, but face
, after Final finishing, silk fabric face is softer for material, easily sends out to drape over one's shoulders and splits.
When polyvinyl long filament is 100d, thicker than Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk one times of the polyvinyl long filament in being twisted thread due to looping, is moved after fell
Lead to weaving to have some setbacks, the silk fabric face after Final finishing is softer, drape over one's shoulders split more serious.
7th, fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement
Fabric is put into and carried out water in immersion cylinder and add soft arrangement, using the softening agent being produced by Shangyu city Fine Chemical Works
1512, softening agent consumption: 1g/ liter, finishing condition rises to 80~85 DEG C for water temperature, time 40min, and bath raio is 1: 6, and mistake water adds soft
The polyvinyl long filament in fabric is made to be completely dissolved after arrangement.
8th, high temperature stentering forming
High temperature framing shaping machine is carried out, styling condition: temperature is 150 DEG C, speed is 30m/min, controls fabric
Door width reaches 108cm, obtains: the real-silk dyed elastic fabric being made up of 92.3% mulberry silk and 7.7% spandex after high-temperature shaping
Finished product.
After gate width in weaving, weaving, lower gate width, finished door width are respectively 160cm, 158.5cm, 108cm, real silk color
Knitting its elastic force of elastic fabric finished product is 31.9%.
During looping, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times;Spandex relaxation shrinkage in fabric is 31.9%, that is, in fabric
Spandex fineness reaches 10.86d.
It is related to bobbin hardness term, bobbin hardness does not have unit, arranges into according to the industry in present specification
The custom of custom, obtained by the mensure of bobbin hardness values is the direct sensing corresponding scale value of graduated disc by scleroscopic pointer
Readings, this readings is an abstract number.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, including and silk, looping twisting, looping twist thread sizing and accurate
Winder, it is characterized in that and silk before also include the processing of Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk, the processing of described Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk is by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 s
300 twists/m through refining Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) refining after stain silk, then to go into cylinder be 300 twists/m of 23dtex Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s;And silk is by 23dtex
300 twists/m of Bombyxmori Linnaeuss color silk f2 s with 50d polyvinyl long filament under the conditions of yarn-doubling tension 19cn through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and close
Silk;Looping twisting is that with 12cn looping tension force, non-twist and plying is wound into 20d spandex surface in bag winding machine and wire, and twisting becomes
1750 twists/m of looping is twisted thread, and controls the drawing-off amount of 20d spandex in looping twisting process;Described looping twist thread sizing be by
Looping is twisted thread and is carried out dry blowing sizing, and dry blowing setting temperature and time are respectively 60 DEG C, 30min;Precision wind is that dry blowing is shaped
Looping afterwards is twisted thread and is become cylinder under the conditions of becoming cylinder tension force to be 16cn, becomes cylinder to finish and carries out cheese reply.
2. looping according to claim 1 is twisted thread production method, it is characterized in that the drawing-off of spandex in looping twisting process
Multiple is 2.7 times, and 20d spandex becomes 7.4d spandex core filaments after drawing-off.
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CN1096549A (en) * | 1993-06-18 | 1994-12-21 | 苏州丝绸科学研究所 | Stretch yarn of real silk manufacture method and products thereof |
CN102505237A (en) * | 2011-09-21 | 2012-06-20 | 薛金礼 | Method for processing silk wrapped stretch yarns |
CN203429336U (en) * | 2013-07-19 | 2014-02-12 | 杭州金富春丝绸科技股份有限公司 | Elastic chiffon |
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US20040194444A1 (en) * | 2003-04-04 | 2004-10-07 | Vinod Yashavant Vinayak | Fluoropolymer yarn blends |
US20060147708A1 (en) * | 2004-12-30 | 2006-07-06 | Clark Anthony L | Photochromic hybrid fabric |
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Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN1096549A (en) * | 1993-06-18 | 1994-12-21 | 苏州丝绸科学研究所 | Stretch yarn of real silk manufacture method and products thereof |
CN102505237A (en) * | 2011-09-21 | 2012-06-20 | 薛金礼 | Method for processing silk wrapped stretch yarns |
CN203429336U (en) * | 2013-07-19 | 2014-02-12 | 杭州金富春丝绸科技股份有限公司 | Elastic chiffon |
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