CN104562350A - Method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk Download PDFInfo
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- CN104562350A CN104562350A CN201510036116.5A CN201510036116A CN104562350A CN 104562350 A CN104562350 A CN 104562350A CN 201510036116 A CN201510036116 A CN 201510036116A CN 104562350 A CN104562350 A CN 104562350A
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- looping
- silk
- yarns
- spandex
- doubling
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for manufacturing wrapped twisted yarns with spandex wrapped by silk, and belongs to the field of technologies for processing textile yarns. The method includes mulberry color yarn processing, doubling, wrapping and twisting and wrapped twisted yarn setting and precision spooling. Mulberry color yarn processing includes carrying out whitening and post-whitening dyeing on 23dtex mulberry yarns f2 S 300 and then carrying out reeling on the 23dtex mulberry yarns f2 S 300 to obtain 23dtex mulberry color yarns f2 S 300. Doubling includes doubling on the mulberry color yarns and 50D vinylon filament yarns in an untwisted manner under the condition of 19CN tension to obtain untwisted doubled yarns. Wrapping and twisting include winding the untwisted doubled yarns on the surfaces of the 20D spandex by the aid of 12CN wrapping tension, controlling drafting quantities of the 20D spandex and twisting the untwisted doubled yarns and the 20D spandex to obtain wrapped twisted yarns with the density of 1750 twists/meter. Wrapped twisted yarn setting includes setting the wrapped twisted yarns by means of dry blowing for 30 min at the dry blowing setting temperature of 60 DEG C. Precision spooling includes spooling the wrapped twisted yarns under the condition of 16CN tension after the wrapped twisted yarns are set by means of dry blowing, and returning cheese yarns after the wrapped twisted yarns are completely spooled. The method has the advantages that the method is high in feasibility and efficiency, and yarn dyeing requirements on elastic silk fabrics can be met by the wrapped twisted yarns manufactured by the aid of the method.
Description
[technical field]
The looping that the present invention relates to a kind of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, belongs to textile yarn processing technology field.
[background technology]
Along with the theory of consuming public and the change of sight, and the raising of the level of consumption, color-woven fabric elastic force kind is widelyd popularize, and guides the consumption of people to the clothes of comfortable and polynary color and clothing fabric to pursue.
Silk elastic fabric is applicable to high-grade garment material, as: nightwear, shirt, sportswear, swimsuit fabric, it solve in use and there is suture slippage and suture and drape over one's shoulders and split phenomenon, and overcome business suit tight sense existing in dress, motion process, make dress light, comfortable, thus taking is strong.
But the broadwise silk elastic fabric in prior art stage is only plain color product, real silk blank textile is dyeed by refining Bai Houzai, obtains monochromatic fabric.Wherein,
Warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts the covering yarn be composited without the mulberry silk come unstuck and spandex core silk, this covering yarn is through decatize high-temperature shaping, impel the silk gum coating spandex securely of mulberry silk, degumming process is carried out through weaving the real silk stretch fabric obtained, dyed process again, obtain real silk plain color (being commonly called as a sight) elastic fabric, because its color is pure, people cannot be met to the abundant serious hope of silk elastic fabric in color, thus limit the extensive use of silk elastic fabric.
The production of real-silk dyed elastic fabric all has no report at home with in external relevant magazine, professional magazine, data, before the present invention makes, for color parallel (looping of the real silk looping spandex is twisted thread) production method of real-silk dyed elastic fabric, also someone does not develop.
[summary of the invention]
The looping that the object of this invention is to provide a kind of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, and this looping is twisted thread, and production method exploitativeness is strong, production efficiency is high, and twisting thread by the looping of the inventive method processing to meet the knitting of look of silk elastic fabric.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention adopts following technical scheme:
The looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, comprise doubling, looping is twisted, looping twists thread sizing and precision wind, and before doubling, also comprise the processing of silkworm look silk, described silkworm look silk processing is by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 S 300 through refining bletilla refining after stain silk, then row becomes cylinder to be 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S 300; Doubling be by 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 and 50D polyvinyl long filament under yarn-doubling tension 19CN condition through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying; Looping twisting is that non-twist and plying is wound into 20D spandex surface with 12CN looping tension force on looping silk machine, and the looping that twisting becomes 1750 twists/m is twisted thread, and controls the drawing-off amount of 20D spandex in looping twisting process well; The sizing of twisting thread of described looping looping is twisted thread to carry out dry blowing sizing, and dry blowing setting temperature and time are respectively 60 DEG C, 30min; Accurate become cylinder be that looping after dry blowing being shaped is twisted thread become cylinder under one-tenth cylinder tension force is 16CN condition, become that cylinder is complete carries out cheese reply.
As preferentially, in looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and 20D spandex becomes 7.4D spandex core silk after drawing-off.
Compared with prior art, advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect as follows:
The looping of real silk looping spandex provided by the present invention is twisted thread production method, and the processing of silkworm look silk can meet the knitting of look of silk elastic fabric; Doubling adopt polyvinyl long filament under rational yarn-doubling tension with silkworm look silk through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying, non-twist and plying is neither too hard, nor too soft, move back during rear road looping and be situated between smoothly, solve non-twist and plying well in rear road and spandex looping process, the difficult problem that polyvinyl long filament very easily breaks end; Further, the optimal design-aside of looping tension force and and the choose reasonable of polyvinyl filament fineness in plying, impel looping smooth, and polyvinyl filament breakage is few; And setting process adopts dry blowing sizing and selects rational styling condition, this not only avoids the adhesion between polyvinyl long filament, and guarantee that the polyvinyl long filament be wound around up is bonded to spandex surface securely, and make self-control looping parallel become cylinder smooth, be conducive to when rear road look is knitted smooth for latitude, it is low to weave staplings rate; Embody looping of the present invention thus to twist thread the feature that productibility is strong, efficiency is high.
Twist thread by the looping of the inventive method processing, color parallel used is produced for real-silk dyed elastic fabric, look knit after grey cloth through arrange obtain real-silk dyed elastic fabric new varieties, these fabric new varieties have expanded a brand-new class fancy of silk rubbery product, start the beginning that real silk stretch fabric look is knitted, the real silk rubbery product of general plain color is developed to multicolor, thus meets people's craving for the colorful color aspect of silk elastic fabric well.
[detailed description of the invention]
The looping of real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, comprise doubling, looping is twisted, looping twists thread sizing and precision wind, and before doubling, also comprise the processing of silkworm look silk, described silkworm look silk processing is by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 S 300 through refining bletilla refining after stain silk, then row becomes cylinder to be 23dtex silkworm look silk f2S 300; Doubling be by 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 and 50D polyvinyl long filament under yarn-doubling tension 19CN condition through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying; Looping twisting is that non-twist and plying is wound into 20D spandex surface with 12CN looping tension force on looping silk machine, and the looping that twisting becomes 1750 twists/m is twisted thread, and controls the drawing-off amount of 20D spandex in looping twisting process well; The sizing of twisting thread of described looping looping is twisted thread to carry out dry blowing sizing, and dry blowing setting temperature and time are respectively 60 DEG C, 30min; Accurate become cylinder be that looping after dry blowing being shaped is twisted thread become cylinder under one-tenth cylinder tension force is 16CN condition, become that cylinder is complete carries out cheese reply.
As preferential embodiment, in looping twisting process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and 20D spandex becomes 7.4D spandex core silk after drawing-off.
Twist thread by the looping of the inventive method processing, the embodiment producing real-silk dyed elastic fabric as color parallel is as follows:
Determine web process specification, looping twists thread processing, looping twists thread dry blowing sizing, looping twists thread precision wind, look is knitted, fabric crosses water and add soft arrangement and high temperature stentering forming operation.Wherein, looping manufacturing procedure of twisting thread comprises the processing of silkworm look silk, the non-twist doubling of silkworm look silk and polyvinyl long filament and looping twining steps; The preparation of warp raw material and warp beam is also comprised before look is knitted.
1, in web process specifications design, tissue adopts five heddle satin tissue, finished product through close be 115/cm, finished product filling density is 44/cm, and finished door width is 108cm, and finished product thickness is 16.5M/M.
2, looping is twisted thread processing
Twist thread in manufacturing procedure in looping, adopt 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 to carry out non-twist doubling with 50D polyvinyl long filament, the method being wound into 20D spandex surface after non-twist doubling is again processed.
Silkworm look silk processing before 2.1 doublings
Raw material adopts 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300, and carried out refining white process, carry out dye silk after refining is white, this Morus tinctoria silk carries out into an operation on one-tenth cylinder machine, is 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300.
When refining white, refining liquid adopts the AR-617 silk scouring agent that Zhong Fang auxiliary reagent factory produces.
The non-twist doubling of 2.2 silkworm look silks and polyvinyl long filament
23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 is carried out non-twist doubling with 50D polyvinyl long filament under yarn-doubling tension 19CN, doubling winder is hung 10 grammes per square metre hammers, obtain the also sth. made by twisting also plying that bobbin hardness is 22.
The doubling Selecting parameter of table 1:23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 and 50D polyvinyl long filament
| method | yarn-doubling tension | bobbin hardness | result |
| 6 grammes per square metre hammers | 13CN | 16 | bobbin is softer, and rear road looping operation is moved back solution and had some setbacks, and broken end is many. |
| 10 grammes per square metre hammers | 19CN | 22 | bobbin is neither too hard, nor too soft, and rear road looping operation is moved back and separated smoothly, breaks end little. |
| 14 grammes per square metre hammers | 23CN | 28 | bobbin hardness suitable can, it is comparatively smooth that rear road looping operation moves back solution, breaks end less. |
Table 1 illustrates: adopt three kinds of different grammes per square metre weights and corresponding three kinds of differential tensions from this table, the three kinds of different hardness obtained through doubling non-twist plying bobbin, and doubling parameter should select 10 grammes per square metres hammers, 19CN yarn-doubling tension and bobbin hardness 22.
2.3 looping twisting:
By obtain through step 2.2 non-twist and plying is wound into 20D spandex surface by looping silk machine under looping tension force 12CN condition, the drawing-off amount of 20D spandex is controlled well in looping twisting process, two kinds of loopings that twisting becomes Z 1750T/m and S 1750T/m are twisted thread, these the two kinds identical looping twists but different twist with the fingers to looping twist thread, follow-up weave for latitude time respectively as first latitude and second latitude.
In looping (twisting) process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times, and namely the drawing-off of 20D spandex is to 7.4D.
Table 2: adopt the non-twist of different fineness polyvinyl long filament and the looping situation of plying and 20D spandex
| drafting multiple | polyvinyl long filament (D) | tension force (CN) | bobbin hardness | result |
| 2.7 | 50 | 12 | 20 | polyvinyl long filament little breakage. |
| 2.7 | 75 | 20 | 26 | polyvinyl filament breakage is many. |
| 2.7 | 100 | 25 | 35 | polyvinyl filament breakage is too many, cannot looping. |
Table 2 illustrates: when polyvinyl filament fineness selects 50D, with jointly form non-twist of 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 and plying when carrying out looping, polyvinyl long filament little breakage, is conducive to looping smooth.
3, looping twist thread dry blowing sizing
Looping twisted thread and carry out dry blowing sizing, dry blowing setting temperature 60 DEG C, dry blowing shaping time 30min on setting machine, thus guarantee not occur between polyvinyl long filament inter-adhesive, polyvinyl long filament is bonded to spandex surface securely simultaneously.
Table 3: adopting the looping of different fineness polyvinyl to twist thread is having the sizing result in unformed medium situation
Conclusion: when with wet steaming sizing, occur inter-adhesive between polyvinyl long filament, during rear road precision wind, rewinding has some setbacks; When shaping with dry blowing, stop the generation of adhesion phenomenon.
4, looping twist thread accurate become cylinder
Looping after dry blowing being shaped twists thread to become on cylinder machine to carry out into an operation in precision, becomes cylinder tension force to be 16CN, replys after lower machine, waits looming weaving used for latitude.
Table 4: the looping comprising 50D polyvinyl long filament is twisted thread, and it becomes cylinder optimum configurations
| method | become cylinder tension force | bobbin hardness | result |
| 6 grammes per square metre hammers | 10CN | 14 | bobbin hardness is softer, and move back solution when weaving and have some setbacks, broken end is many. |
| 10 grammes per square metre hammers | 16CN | 21 | move back when weaving and separate smoothly, little breakage. |
| 16 grammes per square metre hammers | 24CN | 32 | bobbin is comparatively hard, easily breaks, weaves not smooth. |
5, warp beam warping
Warp raw material adopts 23dtex to soak mulberry silk f1 S 800 × 2 Z 700, this warp raw material refines after stain silk through refining bletilla and becomes cylinder, as warping being led (look silk) bobbin, 11990 are led bobbin to be installed on German ZGM3800 Sectional warping machines and to carry out warping, warping technology condition: upper distraction force is 2.5 CN ~ 3CN, and upper axle tension force is 30 CN ~ 33CN, warp quality situation: often whole 50 circles check, broken end number of times is few, easily upper axle not easily silk pressing, and warping is complete obtains warp beam.
6, look is knitted
Parallel combination adopts two kinds of loopings of Z 1750T/m and the S 1750T/m be made up of 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300,50D polyvinyl long filament and 20D spandex to twist thread, i.e. first latitude: (23dtex silkworm look silk f2S 300+50D polyvinyl long filament+20D spandex) Z 1750T/m looping is twisted thread; Second latitude: (23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300+50D polyvinyl long filament+20D spandex) S 1750T/m looping is twisted thread.Weaving process condition: warp tension 28CN ~ 32CN, upper machine through close be 75/cm, upper machine filling density is 42.5/cm, five line satin weaves, reed porter is No. 15 reeds, and it is 5 teeth/cm that reed penetrates number, upper gate width is 160cm, picking order is that two shuttle first latitudes and two shuttle second latitudes circulate, i.e. parallel arrangement: first latitude first latitude second latitude second latitude ..., or be arranged as second latitude second latitude first latitude first latitude ...
The warp of upper machine warp beam and parallel are combined on dobby machine to be weaved, and obtains that a width is 158.5cm, green compact weight is the fabric of 101g/m after lower machine.
Look adopts different loopings to twist thread and carried out weaving test before knitting, namely looping twist thread in polyvinyl filament fineness adopt 50D, 75D, 100D to carry out sample respectively:
When polyvinyl long filament is 50D, due to looping twist thread in silkworm look silk substantially identical with polyvinyl long filament thickness, after silkworm look silk, the doubling of polyvinyl long filament again with spandex looping, the positive and negative internal stress that looping is twisted thread remains basically stable, weave performance smoothly, silk fabric face is more smooth, comfortable, and the anti-fragility of draping over one's shoulders of fabric is good.
When polyvinyl long filament is 75D, due to looping twist thread in polyvinyl long filament thicker than silkworm look silk, weave smoothly, but fabric is after Final finishing, silk fabric face is softer, easily sends out to drape over one's shoulders and splits.
When polyvinyl long filament is 100D, due to looping twist thread in thicker than silkworm look silk one times of polyvinyl long filament, move after fell to cause weaving and have some setbacks, the silk fabric face after Final finishing is softer, drape over one's shoulders split more serious.
7, fabric is crossed water and is added soft arrangement
Fabric is put into and soaks cylinder and carried out water and add soft arrangement, adopt the softener 1512 produced by Shangyu city Fine Chemical Works, softener consumption: 1g/ liter, finishing condition is that water temperature rises to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, time 40min; bath raio is 1: 6, crosses after water adds soft arrangement and the polyvinyl long filament in fabric is dissolved completely.
8, high temperature stentering forming
High temperature framing shaping machine carries out, styling condition: temperature is 150 DEG C, the speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min, and the door width controlling fabric reaches 108cm, obtains: the real-silk dyed elastic fabric finished product be made up of 92.3% mulberry silk and 7.7% spandex after high-temperature shaping.
Weave gate width, weave rear lower gate width, finished door width is respectively 160cm, 158.5cm, 108cm, its elastic force of real-silk dyed elastic fabric finished product is 31.9%.
In looping process, the drafting multiple of spandex is 2.7 times; Spandex relaxation shrinkage in fabric is 31.9%, and the spandex fineness namely in fabric reaches 10.86D.
Bobbin hardness term is related in present specification, bobbin hardness does not have unit, arrange the custom become social custom according to the industry, the mensuration of bobbin hardness values be directly obtain by the scale value that scleroscopic pointed dial is corresponding read value, this value of reading is an abstract number.
Claims (2)
1. the looping of a real silk looping spandex is twisted thread production method, comprise doubling, looping is twisted, looping twists thread sizing and precision wind, it is characterized in that before doubling, also comprise the processing of silkworm look silk, described silkworm look silk processing is by 23dtex mulberry silk f2 S 300 through refining bletilla refining after stain silk, then row becomes cylinder to be 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300; Doubling be by 23dtex silkworm look silk f2 S 300 and 50D polyvinyl long filament under yarn-doubling tension 19CN condition through non-twist and synthesize non-twist and plying; Looping twisting is that non-twist and plying is wound into 20D spandex surface with 12CN looping tension force on looping silk machine, and the looping that twisting becomes 1750 twists/m is twisted thread, and controls the drawing-off amount of 20D spandex in looping twisting process well; The sizing of twisting thread of described looping looping is twisted thread to carry out dry blowing sizing, and dry blowing setting temperature and time are respectively 60 DEG C, 30min; Accurate become cylinder be that looping after dry blowing being shaped is twisted thread become cylinder under one-tenth cylinder tension force is 16CN condition, become that cylinder is complete carries out cheese reply.
2. looping according to claim 1 is twisted thread production method, and it is characterized in that the drafting multiple of spandex in looping twisting process is 2.7 times, 20D spandex becomes 7.4D spandex core silk after drawing-off.
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Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1096549A (en) * | 1993-06-18 | 1994-12-21 | 苏州丝绸科学研究所 | Stretch yarn of real silk manufacture method and products thereof |
| US20040194444A1 (en) * | 2003-04-04 | 2004-10-07 | Vinod Yashavant Vinayak | Fluoropolymer yarn blends |
| US20060147708A1 (en) * | 2004-12-30 | 2006-07-06 | Clark Anthony L | Photochromic hybrid fabric |
| CN102505237A (en) * | 2011-09-21 | 2012-06-20 | 薛金礼 | Method for processing silk wrapped stretch yarns |
| CN203429336U (en) * | 2013-07-19 | 2014-02-12 | 杭州金富春丝绸科技股份有限公司 | Elastic chiffon |
-
2015
- 2015-01-22 CN CN201510036116.5A patent/CN104562350B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1096549A (en) * | 1993-06-18 | 1994-12-21 | 苏州丝绸科学研究所 | Stretch yarn of real silk manufacture method and products thereof |
| US20040194444A1 (en) * | 2003-04-04 | 2004-10-07 | Vinod Yashavant Vinayak | Fluoropolymer yarn blends |
| US20060147708A1 (en) * | 2004-12-30 | 2006-07-06 | Clark Anthony L | Photochromic hybrid fabric |
| CN102505237A (en) * | 2011-09-21 | 2012-06-20 | 薛金礼 | Method for processing silk wrapped stretch yarns |
| CN203429336U (en) * | 2013-07-19 | 2014-02-12 | 杭州金富春丝绸科技股份有限公司 | Elastic chiffon |
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