CN103966724B - A kind of picture-weaving in silk manufacture method containing the jacquard weave of pure color block - Google Patents
A kind of picture-weaving in silk manufacture method containing the jacquard weave of pure color block Download PDFInfo
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- CN103966724B CN103966724B CN201310029543.1A CN201310029543A CN103966724B CN 103966724 B CN103966724 B CN 103966724B CN 201310029543 A CN201310029543 A CN 201310029543A CN 103966724 B CN103966724 B CN 103966724B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of weaving and subsequent processing method thereof of jacquard weave picture-weaving in silk, it adopts modern jacquard weaving machine weaving.The present invention seeks to the weaving process by changing picture-weaving in silk and corresponding post-processing approach, thus significantly improve the colour purity cleanliness of the contained simple color lump of picture-weaving in silk.The present invention adopt organizine yarn to enter a small amount of low melting point nylon hot melt adhesive silk identical with majority fibers organizine thickness of yarn with certain proportion blending, reduce the intertwined point of other barry dyeing yarns in pattern simple color lump jacquard weave district as far as possible, other barry dyeing intertwined points that fabric face is occurred obviously are reduced, and there is the long flotation line of broadwise at envers, also rear road hot-pressing processing must be carried out with the picture-weaving in silk of the inventive method weaving, thus the long flotation line at the consolidating fabric back side.<!--1-->
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of weaving and subsequent processing method thereof of jacquard weave picture-weaving in silk, it adopts modern jacquard weaving machine weaving.
Technical background
Picture-weaving in silk also claims coloured silk to knit, and is a kind of jacquard weave silk goods having floral designs, and brocade is the jacquard fabric that general reference has multiple chromatic pattern, has the latitude through brocade and parallel jacquard weave of warp jacquard weave bright and beautiful.In China, brocade have more than 3,000 year weave history, the Warring states, Han dynasty are popular in brocade, and the Tang Dynasty has a large amount of latitude brocade to occur, after this because latitude brocade is convenient relatively flexibly when weaving, are in use to the Qing Dynasty always.Picture-weaving in silk has multiple use, a large amount of for high-grade dress ornament in ancient times, also have quite a few to be brocade craft product, such as picture-weaving in silk is drawn, generally having the colored silk fabric of larger picture floral designs or being that the painting and calligraphy class technique textiles that copy for the record or for reproduction brocade craft is made into calls that picture-weaving in silk is drawn with painting and calligraphy.Bright, clear picture-weaving in silk is decorated with high development, and this type of picture-weaving in silk is drawn and all adopted manual loom weaving, such as, all have the silk tapestry fabric of collection in Ge great museum.Adopt the picture-weaving in silk of modern loom weaving to draw then to be born abroad, 1839, first France released silk weaving portrait painting and landscape painting, and Photographic tapestry formally occurs to the world.After a while, Britain foremost Si Diwen silk mill is released picture-weaving in silk and is drawn the serial art work in the international fair of Britain Yorkshire in 1879.West picture-weaving in silk draw gradually weak when, the picture-weaving in silk of China is drawn and is started to rise.First width China picture-weaving in silk in 1915 is drawn in Hangzhou and is born.China's picture-weaving in silk is drawn with culture in dense 5000 for inside information, with the oriental cultural of uniqueness for the form of expression, constitutes Chinese picture-weaving in silk and draws the national characters of drawing distinct distinctness with west picture-weaving in silk.
But, adopt the picture-weaving in silk of modern jacquard weaving machine weaving, no matter be traditional polychrome latitude (more than ten kind of barry dyeing can be reached at most) jacquard weave, or the jacquard weave of digital emulation technology triad color contamination look, all be suitable for mixed color effect or the gradient color effect of expressing picture, and be unwell to the simple color lump effect expressing picture.This weaves because modern loom can not carry out staplings as manual loom (such as weaving done in fine silks and gold thread by the tapestry method machine or little swivel loom), therefore, under there are two kinds or more different color blocks situations in same broadwise, for realizing stability and the uniformity of fabric intertexture elementary organization (being generally satin weave), on a simple color lump of fabric face except the flotation line of latitude jacquard weave look, the intertwined point of its allochromatic colour will inevitably be there is, the surperficial intertwined point of its allochromatic colour this is more, then the colour purity cleanliness of the simple color lump in surface is poorer.This problem adopts existing weaving process to be difficult to solve.
Summary of the invention
The present invention seeks to the weaving process by changing picture-weaving in silk and corresponding post-processing approach, thus significantly improve the colour purity cleanliness of the contained simple color lump of picture-weaving in silk.
The present invention adopts modern loom (comprising multi-shuttle box jacquard weaving machine and electronic jacquard Rapier looms) to weave, the filament yarn of various fibrous raw material is adopted through weft yarn, comprise mulberry silk and various chemical-fibres filaments (such as artificial silk, terylene thread or POLYAMIDE YARNS etc.), organizine yarn look is generally raw white or cream-coloured, require also can use coloured differently yarn according to design and weaving process, tram yarn adopts multiple color code dyed yarn.The present invention adopts organizine yarn except above-mentioned majority fibers raw yarn, a small amount of low melting point nylon hot melt adhesive silk identical with majority fibers organizine thickness of yarn is entered with certain proportion blending, the fusing point of nylon hot melt bound fibers is 85-110 DEG C, percent thermal shrinkage is no more than 6%, copolyamide filament fiber (such as Grilon hot melt adhesive filament yarn) can be selected, nylon hot melt bound fibers consumption is the 10-20% of organizine yarn total linear density, such as, the organizine yarn radical of tapestry fabric is 10000, solid wire density is 20D, its organizine yarn total linear density is 200000D, wherein nylon hot melt bound fibers consumption is 20000-40000D, nylon hot melt bound fibers solid wire density is similarly 20D, need when warping to embed 1000-2000 root nylon hot melt bound fibers with uniform intervals.Nylon hot melt bound fibers warp thread generally adopts crude silk, if majority fibers organizine yarn adopts deep colour dyeing silk, then nylon hot melt bound fibers warp thread can select the spin dyeing filament yarn of corresponding color and luster.Be more evenly distributed in organizine yarn to make nylon hot melt bound fibers, the adverse effect that may produce in weaving process after simultaneously avoiding adding nylon hot melt bound fibers, can to carry out with main organizine fiber yarn with nylon hot melt bound fibers and twist with the fingers processing network and becoming warping cheese before warping, the twist adopts the low twist of 1-5t/cm, then arranges with uniform intervals with the main organizine fiber yarn bobbin not adding nylon hot melt bound fibers according to the above ratio in warping and carries out warping.According to Fabric Design and weaving process requirement, if to prepare before warping and to twist with the fingers warp thread doubling radical in operation more, such as 4-5 root 1, and twist with the fingers in operation after the nylon hot melt bound fibers network adding 1 same line density becomes warp bobbins, all can carry out warping with a kind of warp bobbins.Weft yarn adopts the dyed yarn of plurality of color, and weft yarn look is generally 6-8 look, according to designing requirement, also can adopt the weft yarn of more kinds of color code.Fabric jacquard weave elementary organization of the present invention adopts satin weave or plain weave, utilize weft yarn jacquard weave to form broadwise dyed yarn flotation line at fabric face and form multicolour pattern, reduce the intertwined point of other barry dyeing yarns in pattern simple color color lump jacquard weave district as far as possible, other barry dyeing intertwined points that fabric face is occurred obviously are reduced, and there is the long flotation line of broadwise at envers, therefore, same barry dyeing yarn has significant change at the different wefting insertion section of a wefting insertion and the interlace densities of warp thread, such as yellow weft yarn is in the interlace densities of black jacquard weave A section, compare with the interlace densities of same barry dyeing yarn at the non-black jacquard weave B section with a wefting insertion, just there is notable difference (see Figure of description).With the picture-weaving in silk of the inventive method weaving, its back side there will be the long flotation line of chintzing, and fabric unit structure comparison is loose, but fabric face structure still can keep comparatively closely evenly, and its structure is then obvious lax irregular.Therefore, also must carry out rear road hot-pressing processing with the picture-weaving in silk of the inventive method weaving, hot pressing temperature is 90-120 DEG C, hot pressing time 20-60 second, can first in front hot pressing 10-40 second, then hot repressing 10-20 second overleaf.Pass through hot-pressing processing, nylon hot melt silk in embedding warp thread is melted substantially, thus the long flotation line at the consolidating fabric back side, hot-pressing processing makes the long flotation line of loose broadwise be bonded to envers completely, simultaneously because hot melt nylon is to the absorption draw of both sides warp thread, and the thermal contraction of weft yarn, fabric construction can be made more closely to stablize than before hot-pressing processing, even and if the nylon yarn do not melted completely also can not appear at fabric face.
The inventive method is applicable to the color of simple color color lump in expression picture-weaving in silk pattern more true to nature, especially the Chinese tratitional technology be suitable for containing larger area simple color color lump draws subject matter (as the class such as ew Year pictures and decoration painting) picture-weaving in silk, the existing weaving process of comparable employing better reproduces rich color in this type of pattern, also the reproduction of Clothing Color in traditional portrait picture is suitable for, such as can reproduce dense corvinus or gorgeous large red, its successful is better than the picture-weaving in silk adopting prior art weaving.Can with the picture-weaving in silk of the inventive method weaving directly hot pressing on the mounting materials such as thin silk fabric thin,tough silk, once complete the long flotation line consolidation in the back side and envers mount, be framed into the picture-weaving in silk picture handicrafs such as spool.After being framed into spool, the long flotation line part at the picture-weaving in silk back side also can not local shedding be flaked.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Figure of description is different color blocks schematic diagram and the respective organization schematic diagram of picture-weaving in silk of the present invention, in Fig. 1 a be black jacquard weave A section organize schematic diagram, in black jacquard weave A district: 1. black yarn (first latitude) and warp form 8/5 satin tissue, 2. yellow yarn (second latitude) and warp are without intertexture, are hidden in envers.In Fig. 1 b be the B section of non-black jacquard weave organize schematic diagram.In non-black jacquard weave B district: 1. black yarn (first latitude) and warp are without intertexture, are hidden in envers, 2. yellow yarn (second latitude) and warp form plain weave.Black yarn (first latitude) becomes 1:1 to configure with yellow yarn (second latitude).Fig. 2 is different jacquard weave color lump schematic diagram contained by picture-weaving in silk pattern, and in figure, A is black jacquard weave district, and B is yellow jacquard weave district.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1:
Raw material: the concise mulberry silk of warp thread 120/22D
Warp thread 2 Switzerland Ems-chemie company Grilonk-8520D hot melt adhesive long filament (copolyamide fibre)
The concise Morus tinctoria silk in weft yarn 20/22D × 4
Prepare before warping: 3, the concise mulberry silk of warp bobbins 120/22D is also twisted with the fingers network and become bobbin ,+20D hot melt adhesive long filament × 1, concise mulberry silk × 3 of twist 2t/cm warp bobbins 220/22D piece is also twisted with the fingers network and is become bobbin, twist 2t/cm
Warping: warp bobbins 1 and warp bobbins 2 one carry out warping every an arrangement
Flower pattern: 5 flowers
Warp thread look: 1 look (this white)
Weft yarn look: 6 looks (red, black, yellow, green, brown, orange)
Weave: adopt electronic jacquard Rapier looms to weave, utilize assorted weft yarn wefting insertion at different section by the corresponding change interlace densities of jacquard weave requirement, other barry dyeing yarn intertwined points in front, each simple color color lump jacquard weave district are minimized.
Post processing: carry out hot-pressing processing at fabric positive and negative, hot pressing temperature 90 DEG C, hot pressing time 30 seconds.
Embodiment 2:
Raw material: the concise mulberry silk of warp thread 120/22D
Warp thread 2 Switzerland Ems-chemie company Grilonk-8520D hot melt adhesive long filament (copolyamide fibre)
The concise Morus tinctoria silk in weft yarn 20/22D × 3
Prepare before warping: 2, the concise mulberry silk of warp bobbins 120/22D is also twisted with the fingers network and become bobbin, twist 2t/cm
+ 20D hot melt adhesive long filament × 1, concise mulberry silk × 2 of warp bobbins 220/22D piece is also twisted with the fingers network and is become bobbin, twist 2t/cm
Warping: warping is carried out in 31, warp bobbins 1 interval warp bobbins 2 arrangements
Flower pattern: 6 flowers
Warp thread look: 1 look (this white)
Weft yarn look: 7 looks (red, black, yellow, green, brown, purple, orange)
Weave: adopt electronic jacquard Rapier looms to weave, utilize assorted weft yarn wefting insertion at different section by the corresponding change interlace densities of jacquard weave requirement, other barry dyeing yarn intertwined points in front, each simple color color lump jacquard weave district are minimized.
Post processing: carry out hot-pressing processing at fabric positive and negative, hot pressing temperature 90 DEG C, hot pressing time 20 seconds.
The real silk picture-weaving in silk made with said method, in its silk fabric face multicolour pattern, simple color color lump has higher colour purity cleanliness, and fabric construction is stablized, and is applicable to be framed into scroll painting handicraft, is also applicable to dress ornament series products.
Claims (4)
1. the picture-weaving in silk weaving containing the jacquard weave of pure color block and subsequent processing method thereof, the filament yarn of various fibrous raw material is adopted through weft yarn, adopt multi-shuttle box jacquard weaving machine or the weaving of electronic jacquard Rapier looms, it is characterized in that: adopt organizine yarn except majority fibers raw yarn, a small amount of low melting point nylon hot melt adhesive silk identical with majority fibers organizine thickness of yarn is entered with certain proportion blending, the fusing point of nylon hot melt bound fibers is 85-110 DEG C, percent thermal shrinkage is no more than 6%, nylon hot melt bound fibers consumption is the 10-20% of organizine yarn total linear density, certain proportion nylon hot melt bound fibers is embedded with uniform intervals when warping, in weaving, same barry dyeing yarn is changing with the different wefting insertion section of a wefting insertion and the interlace densities of warp thread, simple color color lump jacquard weave district reduces the intertwined point of other barry dyeing yarns as far as possible, other barry dyeing intertwined points that fabric face is occurred obviously are reduced, and there is the long flotation line of broadwise at envers, weave and rear road hot-pressing processing is carried out to fabric the long flotation line of envers is cemented on fabric completely afterwards, hot pressing temperature is 90-120 DEG C, hot pressing time 20-60 second.
2. the picture-weaving in silk weaving containing the jacquard weave of pure color block as claimed in claim 1 and subsequent processing method thereof, it is characterized in that: to carry out with main organizine fiber yarn with nylon hot melt bound fibers and twist with the fingers processing network and becoming warping cheese before warping, the twist adopts the low twist of 1-5t/cm, then carry out warping, or to arrange with uniform intervals with the main organizine fiber yarn bobbin not adding nylon hot melt bound fibers and carry out warping.
3. the picture-weaving in silk weaving containing the jacquard weave of pure color block as claimed in claim 1 and subsequent processing method thereof, it is characterized in that: warp thread majority fibers adopts the concise mulberry silk of 20/22D, in warp thread, blending enters low melting point nylon hot melt adhesive silk employing Grilonk-8520D long filament, weft yarn adopts 20/22D to dye concise mulberry silk, and after fabric, road hot pressing temperature is 90 DEG C.
4. the picture-weaving in silk weaving containing the jacquard weave of pure color block as claimed in claim 1 and subsequent processing method thereof, is characterized in that: when carrying out fabric hot-pressing processing, directly hot pressing on thin silk fabric thin,tough silk mounting material, can once complete the long flotation line consolidation in the back side and envers mount.
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| CN201310029543.1A CN103966724B (en) | 2013-01-24 | 2013-01-24 | A kind of picture-weaving in silk manufacture method containing the jacquard weave of pure color block |
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| CN103966724B true CN103966724B (en) | 2016-02-10 |
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| CN105386199B (en) * | 2015-10-13 | 2017-10-27 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | Spliced clipping and carving color-woven fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN110144657A (en) * | 2019-07-05 | 2019-08-20 | 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 | A kind of losing fibre preventing cashmere class yarn and its manufacturing method, cashmere class yarn product first product, finished product and its manufacturing method |
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| CN1297072A (en) * | 2000-08-29 | 2001-05-30 | 李加林 | Method for weaving colour brocade |
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| CN101736477A (en) * | 2008-11-06 | 2010-06-16 | 杭州高盛文化经营有限公司 | Method for making three-dimensional color samite |
| CN102408705A (en) * | 2011-09-22 | 2012-04-11 | 贵州凯科特材料有限公司 | Nylon 6 with high performance and low melting-point and preparation method thereof |
| CN102443921A (en) * | 2010-10-14 | 2012-05-09 | 广州市白云区德发织带厂 | Female bra cup support jacket textile and manufacturing technology of the same |
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- 2013-01-24 CN CN201310029543.1A patent/CN103966724B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1297072A (en) * | 2000-08-29 | 2001-05-30 | 李加林 | Method for weaving colour brocade |
| CN1295144A (en) * | 2000-12-04 | 2001-05-16 | 浙江大学电气自动化研究所 | Artistic portrait and landscape picture of knitted silk |
| CN2578355Y (en) * | 2002-10-11 | 2003-10-08 | 杭州万事利丝绸科技有限公司 | Double-face brocade jacquard |
| CN1786308A (en) * | 2005-12-19 | 2006-06-14 | 韩容 | Digitel code manufacturing method jacquard weave double surface beautiful and glorious |
| CN101736477A (en) * | 2008-11-06 | 2010-06-16 | 杭州高盛文化经营有限公司 | Method for making three-dimensional color samite |
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| CN102408705A (en) * | 2011-09-22 | 2012-04-11 | 贵州凯科特材料有限公司 | Nylon 6 with high performance and low melting-point and preparation method thereof |
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Effective date of registration: 20160419 Address after: Xihu District Yi Lok Road Hangzhou city Zhejiang province 310000 No. 223 room 701 Patentee after: HANGZHOU SILK ROAD CULTURE AND ART CO.,LTD. Address before: Hangzhou City, Zhejiang province 311114 Yuhang District Banqiao Industrial Park No. 2-1 Liansheng road cross Building No. 10 Patentee before: HANGZHOU JINXIU GONGFANG ARTS & CRAFTS CO.,LTD. |
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