CN109881328A - A kind of design method and weaving process of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric - Google Patents
A kind of design method and weaving process of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN109881328A CN109881328A CN201910152263.7A CN201910152263A CN109881328A CN 109881328 A CN109881328 A CN 109881328A CN 201910152263 A CN201910152263 A CN 201910152263A CN 109881328 A CN109881328 A CN 109881328A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 108
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 44
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 241000345998 Calamus manan Species 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 235000012950 rattan cane Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 235000016213 coffee Nutrition 0.000 claims description 45
- 235000013353 coffee beverage Nutrition 0.000 claims description 45
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 241000628997 Flos Species 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- TWDJIKFUVRYBJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Cyanthoate Chemical compound CCOP(=O)(OCC)SCC(=O)NC(C)(C)C#N TWDJIKFUVRYBJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 201000003373 familial cold autoinflammatory syndrome 3 Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000020004 porter Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 208000015181 infectious disease Diseases 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
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- 235000012633 Iberis amara Nutrition 0.000 abstract description 5
- 240000007154 Coffea arabica Species 0.000 description 44
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 18
- WPPDXAHGCGPUPK-UHFFFAOYSA-N red 2 Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1C(C1=CC=CC=C11)=C(C=2C=3C4=CC=C5C6=CC=C7C8=C(C=9C=CC=CC=9)C9=CC=CC=C9C(C=9C=CC=CC=9)=C8C8=CC=C(C6=C87)C(C=35)=CC=2)C4=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 WPPDXAHGCGPUPK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000003255 Carthamus tinctorius Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 244000020518 Carthamus tinctorius Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000002168 Tilia europaea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 240000006909 Tilia x europaea Species 0.000 description 2
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005034 decoration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000003631 expected effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses the design methods and weaving process of a kind of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric, the present invention develops filled type functionality jacquard fabric new product on SGA598 type small sample loom, selects potted flower grain pattern, raw material is based on cotton, polyester filament rockets, and fabric is made to have imitative embroidery effect；Nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, making fabric not only has certain functionality, but also has highlighted the three-dimensional sense of fabric；On organization design, flower and green rattan use warp backed weave, and flowerpot uses improved double-layered structure.The present invention overcomes the limitation of small jacquard loom, adjust warp thread warp tension with the weight of suspension different weight, using flower threading method when denting, guarantee flower pattern it is full, cloth exquisiteness it is compact；Silver fiber is filled before flowerpot two-layer fabric is closed, to obtain preferable filling effect.By design and practice, desired effect is reached.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric design to weave field, and in particular to a kind of design side of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric
Method and weaving process.
Background technique
Jacquard fabric is widely used in clothing industry, family's textile fabric industry, the processing of house ornamentation adnornment industry, ornaments and construction industry,
Jacquard process refers to using a kind of tissue as bottom, another kind tissue or Various Tissues while showing floral designs, and with
Filling yarn regular sink-float landing shows pattern image, is the performance with fiber, the form of yarn count, the tissue of fabric
Variation, the weaving process that the third form and aspect shot effects etc. of interlaced generation of the color through barry dyeing is mutually set off.Wherein jacquard weave
Patterning design, yarn design and organization design are the main indicators of its product.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of filled type functionality small jacquard faces
The design method and weaving process of material.
Technical solution: a kind of design method of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric, specific design are as follows:
(1) grain pattern and Color Scheme:
The flower pattern grain pattern of fabric selects flowers theme, and in order to realize the three-dimensional sense of potted flower grain pattern, flowerpot front is by white, shallow
The grid that two kinds of colors of palm fibre are formed is constituted, and breaches the stiff of pure color flowerpot, nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, keep flowerpot convex
It rises；In order to embody the three-dimensional sense and imitative embroidery sense of bouquet, rocketed with floss silk polyester filament, light red does the flower warp of flower, shallowly
The flower warp that green makees flower rattan is also embedded the wire with indistinct black around flowerpot based on deep coffee color, so that flower pattern is vivaciously again
Prudent sense；
(2) organization design:
Flower and flower rattan two parts are warp backed weaves, and flower pattern is full, three-dimensional sense is strong；In view of longitudinal flower spacing compared with
Greatly, pale red dyeing defect pass through fabric backing to float long line longer, easily cause hook silk, take clipping and carving processing in fabric backing, knit
Under object after machine, by the pale red dyeing defect of reverse side between two flowers through cutting, by clipping and carving, keep flower life-like in basin；Flowerpot part
It is double-layered structure, is conducive to fill silver fiber between two layers of cloth, but there are two systems for the warp thread of double-layered structure, there are two weft yarns
System, and the region other than flowerpot only needs the yarn of a system, therefore, this means that the region other than flowerpot, needs
The warp thread and weft yarn of another system are hidden, the method taken on organization design is to be formed to float long line in fabric backing,
It is cut after machine under fabric；
The number of picks to round of pattern of the flower pattern grain pattern reaches 300 latitudes, and organization chart is larger, when weaving dobby, one
As indicated with pegging plan, pegging plan is resolved into six parts and is stored respectively, in weaving flower, Hua Teng, flowerpot, the grain patterns such as is left white
When call corresponding pegging plan respectively；
(3) raw material designs:
Fabric plays flower and flower rattan, polyester filament good luster, the dimness with cotton based on cotton yarn, with floss silk polyester filament
Gloss forms sharp contrast, and flower pattern protrusion is full, and fabric is made to have imitative embroidery effect；In flowerpot part, it is filled with 1.35dtex
× 45mm nano silver fibre；Silver fiber can make fabric have the function of the solid of radiation protection, uvioresistant etc. and fabric
Sense.
A kind of weaving process of the filled type functionality small jacquard fabric according to, the weaving process key technology is such as
Under:
(1) warp thread warp tension
Fabric is weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, and controlling each section warp thread warp tension is weaving
Key, in order to adjust flower, green rattan, flowerpot, the tension that passes through, when weaving, take at loom rear portion and tie up respectively, suspension is not
With the weight of weight, guarantee that Warp opening is clear, uniform tension in order with this；As can be seen that two flowerpots of warp thread direction from grain pattern
Spacing is equal with two flower spacing, so the warp thread of flower and flowerpot floats that long line length is equal, and theoretically tension is answered in reverse side
It is consistent, but the warp thread of flower forms flower pattern by floating long line in fabric face, interleaving degress is relatively fewer, and the warp thread of flowerpot
In fabric face and weft yarn with plain weave at upper layer cloth, interleaving degress is relatively more, so flower warp thread suspension weight is most
Weight, about 1.5kg, to increase its warp tension；Flowerpot warp thread takes second place, and hangs weight about 1kg, and green rattan warp thread floats long line and do not grow,
Interweave intermittently, it is most light that warp thread hangs weight, hangs weight about 0.5kg, suitably plus a small amount of tension；Ground is through then pressing positive reason
Condition is bundled on the back rest；
(2) filling mode:
Flowerpot part is two-layer fabric, and nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, grasps the filling time；Pacified according to grain pattern
Row first calls card one to knit and is left white 16 latitudes, then card two called to start self-figure basin, be the starting point of longitudinal two-layer fabric herein,
With woven progress, layer cloth flowerpot increasingly has a type, and flowerpot weft yarn is 40 latitudes, starts when knitting to 36 latitude toward in flowerpot
Silver fiber is filled, appropriate silver fiber is clamped with tweezers and is inserted in a horizontally-arranged flowerpot one by one, considers the three-dimensional sense that enhance flowerpot
And functionality, the loading of silver fiber can be increased suitably, flowerpot is closed by last 4 latitude；
(3) picking sequence is as follows:
When self-figure basin, weft yarn has white, shallow brown two kinds of colors, needs two weft inserters, is thrown according to weft yarn arrangement sequence
Latitude, 1 shallow palm fibre 1 is white will continuously to throw 4 times, just can guarantee the formation of tartan plaid basin；In addition, total number of latitude of flowerpot is 40 latitudes, after 40 latitudes
It is shallowly brown that the weft yarn in face only throws a barry dyeing；Because loom used in the product is manual wefting insertion and beating, have to control in weaving
It beats up well dynamics, firmly uniformly flowerpot, flower should be prevented not of uniform size.
As optimization: the warp density on machine of the fabric is 455/10cm, and weft density on machine is 242/10cm, lower machine warp
Close is 475/10cm, and lower machine filling density is 258/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 4.2%, weft shrinkage 6.6%, porter 64#。
The utility model has the advantages that the present invention develops filled type functionality jacquard fabric new product on SGA598 type small sample loom,
Potted flower grain pattern is selected, based on cotton, polyester filament rockets raw material, and fabric is made to have imitative embroidery effect；Nanometer is filled in flowerpot
Silver fiber, making fabric not only has certain functionality, but also has highlighted the three-dimensional sense of fabric；On organization design, flower and green rattan
Using warp backed weave, flowerpot uses improved double-layered structure.The present invention overcomes the limitations of small jacquard loom, not with suspension
Weight with weight adjusts warp thread warp tension, using flower threading method when denting, guarantee flower pattern it is full, cloth exquisiteness it is compact；In flower
Silver fiber is filled before basin two-layer fabric closure, to obtain preferable filling effect.By design and practice, expected effect is reached
Fruit.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is flowerpot regional effect figure of the invention；(a) it is fabric face flowerpot, (b) is fabric backing flowerpot；
Fig. 2 is card schematic diagram of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
The present invention has carried out practice of innovation by taking " tilia europaea dream " theme as an example, to filled type functionality small jacquard fabric." Bodhisattva
Mention Ye Meng " theme works with Buddhism term " one spends a world, one bodhi of a leaf " be design inspiration, using potted flower as grain pattern element,
Functional nano silver fiber is filled in flowerpot, is main innovative point with the imitative embroidery effect that polyester filament rockets, with high-grade household
Decorative fabric is positioning, integrates functional, three-dimensional sense and aesthetic feeling, though implied meaning, which is that all things on earth is small, agglomerates infinite wisdom.
1 product design
Ridge tracing, organization design and raw material design are that three of this filled type functionality small jacquard fabric design are main
Aspect.When designing pattern grain pattern, it need to consider organization design, raw material design, whether can be realized in technique, whether designed fabric
It can achieve the desired results.In the innovative design of product, only by grain pattern, tissue, raw material and technique realizability perfection knot
It closes, the novel fabric of effect could be obtained.
1.1 grain patterns and Color Scheme
The product is completed on small jacquard loom, the heald frame of page 16 provisioned in small jacquard loom, make flower pattern Ridge tracing by
Significant limitation is arrived.The product flower pattern grain pattern select flowers theme, but rat-fuck thinking be selection potted flower grain pattern and
It is not a decorative pattern sample.In order to realize the three-dimensional sense of potted flower grain pattern, the grid structure that flowerpot front is formed by white, shallow brown two kinds of colors
At breaching the stiff of pure color flowerpot, nano silver fibre filled in flowerpot, keep flowerpot raised.In order to embody the three-dimensional sense of bouquet
Feel with imitative embroidery, rocketed with floss silk polyester filament, light red does the flower warp of flower, and light green color makees the flower warp of flower rattan, flowerpot week
It encloses based on deep coffee color, is also embedded the wire with indistinct black, so that flower pattern is active and prudent sense.
1.2 organization design
Flower and flower rattan two parts are warp backed weaves, and flower pattern is full, three-dimensional sense is strong；In view of longitudinal flower spacing compared with
Greatly, pale red dyeing defect pass through fabric backing to float long line longer, easily cause hook silk, take clipping and carving processing in fabric backing, knit
Under object after machine, by the pale red dyeing defect of reverse side between two flowers through cutting, by clipping and carving, keep flower life-like in basin.Flowerpot part
It is double-layered structure, is conducive to fill silver fiber between two layers of cloth, but there are two systems for the warp thread of double-layered structure, there are two weft yarns
System, and the region other than flowerpot only needs the yarn of a system, therefore, this means that the region other than flowerpot, needs
The warp thread and weft yarn of another system are hidden, the method taken on organization design is to be formed to float long line in fabric backing, such as
Shown in Fig. 1 flowerpot regional effect figure, cut after machine under fabric.
Green rattan between longitudinal two potted flowers is swung left and right, is graceful.The number of picks to round of pattern of the flower pattern grain pattern as a result,
Reach 300 latitudes, organization chart is larger, when weaving dobby, is generally indicated with pegging plan, and pegging plan is resolved into six portions
Point store respectively, weave flower, Hua Teng, flowerpot, the grain patterns such as be left white when call corresponding pegging plan respectively, card 1 is at three
It is left white region, card 2 is flowerpot region, and card 3 is flower region, and card 4 is the flower rattan region of the first potted flower, and card 5 is the
The flower rattan region of two potted flowers, green rattan region of the card 6 between two flowerpots, as shown in Fig. 2 pegging plan.
The design of 1.3 raw materials
Fabric plays flower and flower rattan, polyester filament good luster, the dimness with cotton based on cotton yarn, with floss silk polyester filament
Gloss forms sharp contrast, and flower pattern protrusion is full, and fabric is made to have imitative embroidery effect.In flowerpot part, it is filled with 1.35dtex
× 45mm nano silver fibre.Silver fiber can make fabric have the function of the solid of radiation protection, uvioresistant etc. and fabric
Sense.
2 technological designs
2.1 yams
1 yams of table
2.2 warp and wefts color matching circulation
Warp thread: (2 red 1 is white for shallow 4 off-white of coffee, the 2 deep 2 black 6 deep coffee of deep coffee 2 black 2 (1 white 1 deep coffee) * 2 of coffee of deep coffee 2 black 4 of 4 off-white 22
The 1 deep coffee of deep coffee 1 white 1) (2 red 2 green 1 white 1 is deep for (the 2 deep 1 deep coffee of shallow coffee 1 of coffee of red 1 shallow coffee 1) * 2 (the 2 red 1 shallow 1 deep coffee of deep coffee 1 white 1 of coffee)
The deep coffee of coffee 1 white 1) * 2 (the 2 red 2 green 1 white 1 deep 1 deep coffee of shallow coffee 1 of coffee) (the 2 deep 1 deep coffees of shallow coffee 1 of coffee of red 2 green 1 shallow coffee 1) * 3 (2 red 2 green 1
The white 1 deep coffee of deep coffee 1 white 1) (the 2 deep coffee of red 1 green 1 red 1 white 1 deep coffee 1 white 1) (the 2 deep coffee of red 1 white 1 deep coffee 1 white 1) (2 red 1 shallow coffees 1 are deep
The 1 deep coffee of shallow coffee 1 of coffee) * 2 (the 1 deep coffee of shallow coffee 1) (1 white 1 deep coffee) the * 42 deep 2 black 4 deep coffees of deep coffee 2 black 2 of coffee of deep coffee 2 black 6
The flower warp thread number of (note: font-weight part is flowerpot region) one is 190
Weft yarn: the shallow one flower weft yarn number of palm fibre of (1 shallow palm fibre 1 is white) * 48 shallow palm fibre (1 shallow palm fibre 1 is white) * 48 shallow brown (totally 40 latitude) 125 is 165
Root
2.3 gait sequentially
(12)*33、35、46、35、467、357、467、358、468、358、469、359、469、35912、46912、
35912、461013、351013、461013、351114、461114、351114、461015、351015、461015、35916、
46916、35916、469、359、469、358、468、358、467、357、467、35、46
One Weaving Cycle warp thread number is 190
2.4 every dents penetrate several designs
In order to guarantee that pattern profile is clear, protrusion is full, the ground cloth density one of the ground cloth for the part that rockets and the part that do not rocket
Cause, denting takes colored threading method, i.e., through close different region in same fabric, penetrate number difference, through it is the ratio between close be equal to penetrate
The ratio between number.The product has different everywhere through close, is single layer ground cloth (region one), flowerpot layer cloth respectively in terms of the longitudinal direction of fabric
(region two), flowerpot layer cloth and safflower intersection (region three), flowerpot layer cloth and safflower Lv Teng intersection (region four).Such as
Fruit single layer cloth wear 2 and enter, the layer cloth in region two will wear 4 and enter to make the density of upper layer and lower layer cloth with single layer cloth be consistent,
Region three has Red Flowers through being added above flowerpot, need to be further added by two and penetrate number, that is, wear 6 and enter, and region above flowerpot fourth is that have
Pale red flower warp, light green colored rattan are added, and need to be further added by four and penetrate number, that is, wear 8 and enter.
2.5 textile processes parameters
The warp density on machine of fabric be 455/10cm, weft density on machine be 242/10cm, lower machine through it is close be 475/10cm,
Lower machine filling density is 258/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 4.2%, weft shrinkage 6.6%, porter 64#。
3 weaving key measures
3.1 warp thread warp tensions
This product need to be weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, and controlling each section warp thread warp tension is
Woven key, in order to adjust flower, green rattan, flowerpot, the tension that passes through, when weaving, take at loom rear portion and tie up respectively, hang
The weight of different weight is hung, guarantees that Warp opening is clear, uniform tension in order with this.As can be seen that the two of warp thread direction from grain pattern
Flowerpot spacing is equal with two flower spacing, thus the warp thread of flower and flowerpot reverse side to float long line length equal, theoretically open
Power should be consistent, but the warp thread of flower forms flower pattern by floating long line in fabric face, and interleaving degress is relatively fewer, and flowerpot
Warp thread in fabric face and weft yarn with plain weave at upper layer cloth, interleaving degress is relatively more, thus flower warp thread suspension weight
Object is most heavy, about 1.5kg, to increase its warp tension；Flowerpot warp thread takes second place, and hangs weight about 1kg, and green rattan warp thread floats long line not
It is long, interweave intermittently, it is most light that warp thread hangs weight, hangs weight about 0.5kg, suitably plus a small amount of tension；Ground is through then by just
Reason condition is bundled on the back rest.
3.2 filling mode
Flowerpot part is two-layer fabric, and nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, it is most important that grasps the filling time.Root
According to grain pattern arrangement, first calls card one to knit and be left white 16 latitudes, then card two is called to start self-figure basin, be longitudinal two-layer fabric herein
Starting point, with woven progress, layer cloth flowerpot increasingly has a type, and flowerpot weft yarn is 40 latitudes, starts when knitting to 36 latitude
Silver fiber is filled in toward flowerpot, appropriate silver fiber is clamped with tweezers and is inserted in a horizontally-arranged flowerpot one by one, consideration will enhance flowerpot
Three-dimensional sense and functionality, the loading of silver fiber can suitably increase, flowerpot is closed by last 4 latitude.
3.3 pickings sequence
When self-figure basin, weft yarn has white, shallow brown two kinds of colors, needs two weft inserters, is thrown according to weft yarn arrangement sequence
Latitude, it is accordingly required in particular to which the part of attention, which is that 1 shallow palm fibre 1 is white, will continuously throw 4 times, just can guarantee the formation of tartan plaid basin；In addition, flowerpot
Total number of latitude is 40 latitudes, and it is shallowly brown that the subsequent weft yarn of 40 latitudes only throws a barry dyeing.Because loom used in the product is manual wefting insertion and beating,
It has to control beating dynamics in weaving, firmly uniformly flowerpot, flower should be prevented not of uniform size.
3.4 functional test
Silver fiber not only has radiation proof function, and there are also good antistatic effect and certain antibacterial and deodouring functions for it.
Silver fiber has many good functionality, but the price is very expensive, and this product inserts a certain amount of silver fiber in flowerpot,
The class for improving product, increases value-added content of product.
Electromagnetic shielding performance test is carried out to the fabric with EMD-2G high accurate electromagnetic detection instrument, first uses electromagnetic detection instrument
It is directed at mobile phone, its radiation value is surveyed, then blocks mobile phone with the fabric, then survey electromagnetic radiation value at this time, it should be noted that is read
High frequency numerical value is taken when number.
Measurement is averaged twice, it is found that the electromagnetic radiation value of mobile phone is reduced to 2.58 μ t by 4.61 μ t, it is possible thereby to see
Out, this filled type functionality small jacquard fabric has certain radiation-proof effect.
" tilia europaea dream " theme small jacquard design innovative, innovative point first is that grain pattern and color design, breach biography
The decorative pattern sample of system, and potted flower grain pattern is selected, ground cloth is equipped with black embedding, longitudinal direction two using deep coffee as dominant hue, in flowerpot two sides
Off-white and light brown item are equipped between column flower pattern, pale red flower flickers on light green rattan, elegant grid flowerpot is mixed, like a width
Lively picture scroll.Innovative point second is that raw material selects, product rockets based on cotton yarn with polyester filament so that flower pattern have it is imitative
Embroidery effect；Nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, making the product both has certain radiation protection, uvioresistant, antistatic function
Can, and highlighted the three-dimensional sense of fabric；Weft yarn also selects polyester filament yarn, improves the gloss of fabric entirety.The three of innovative point
It is organization design, flower and green rattan are using warp backed weave, and flowerpot part uses double-layered structure, and flowerpot will be double-deck with exterior domain
It organizes the warp thread of another system, weft yarn to ensconce fabric backing and is cut a part after machine under fabric.The four of innovative point
It is technological design, overcomes the limitation of small jacquard loom, adjusts warp thread warp tension, denting with the weight of suspension different weight
Shi Caiyong it is different penetrate number, with meet fabric different zones through close, and then guarantee flower pattern it is full, it is clear-cut, cloth it is thin
It is greasy compact；It is accurate to grasp the silver fiber filling time, silver fiber is filled before flowerpot two-layer fabric is closed, to obtain preferable filling
Effect.
The weaving of the product is realized on small jacquard loom, design difficulty and technical difficulty are all larger, various by taking
Means efficiently solve corresponding difficult point, realize the design and weaving of new product, have reached desired effect, to small jacquard fabric
Innovative design has reference function.The product technology content is high, added value of product is high, belongs to medium and high-grade goods, is suitble to make curtain, embrace
Pillow, handbag, home decoration fabric etc..
Claims (3)
1. a kind of design method of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric, it is characterised in that: specific design is as follows:
(1) grain pattern and Color Scheme:
The flower pattern grain pattern of fabric selects flowers theme, and in order to realize the three-dimensional sense of potted flower grain pattern, flowerpot front is by white, shallow brown two
The grid that kind color is formed is constituted, and breaches the stiff of pure color flowerpot, nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, keeps flowerpot raised；For
The three-dimensional sense and imitative embroidery sense for embodying bouquet, are rocketed with floss silk polyester filament, and light red does the flower warp of flower, and light green color is made
The flower warp of flower rattan is also embedded the wire with indistinct black around flowerpot based on deep coffee color, so that the active not unstability again of flower pattern
Double infection；
(2) organization design:
Flower and flower rattan two parts are warp backed weaves, and flower pattern is full, three-dimensional sense is strong；In view of longitudinal flower spacing is larger, shallowly
Red Flowers pass through fabric backing to float long line longer, easily cause hook silk, take clipping and carving processing, machine under fabric in fabric backing
Afterwards, by the pale red dyeing defect of reverse side between two flowers through cutting, by clipping and carving, keep flower life-like in basin；Flowerpot part is double-deck
Tissue, is conducive to fill silver fiber between two layers of cloth, but system there are two the warp thread of double-layered structure, system that there are two weft yarns,
And the region other than flowerpot only needs the yarn of a system, therefore, this means that the region other than flowerpot, needs to hide
The warp thread and weft yarn of another system, the method taken on organization design is to be formed to float long line in fabric backing, under fabric
It is cut after machine；
The number of picks to round of pattern of the flower pattern grain pattern reaches 300 latitudes, and organization chart is larger, general to use when weaving dobby
Pegging plan indicates, pegging plan is resolved into six parts and is stored respectively, in weaving flower, Hua Teng, flowerpot, the grain patterns time-division such as is left white
Corresponding pegging plan is not called；
(3) raw material designs:
Fabric plays flower and flower rattan, polyester filament good luster, the dull with cotton based on cotton yarn, with floss silk polyester filament
Sharp contrast is formed, flower pattern protrusion is full, and fabric is made to have imitative embroidery effect；In flowerpot part, be filled with 1.35dtex ×
45mm nano silver fibre；Silver fiber can make fabric have the function of the solid of radiation protection, uvioresistant etc. and fabric
Sense.
2. a kind of weaving process of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: described
Weaving process key technology is as follows:
(1) warp thread warp tension
Fabric is weaved on TongYuan SGA598 type small sample loom, and controlling each section warp thread warp tension is woven pass
Key, in order to adjust flower, green rattan, flowerpot, the tension that passes through, when weaving, take at loom rear portion and tie up respectively, hang different heavy
The weight of amount guarantees that Warp opening is clear, uniform tension in order with this；As can be seen that two flowerpot spacing of warp thread direction from grain pattern
It is equal with two flower spacing, so the warp thread of flower and flowerpot floats that long line length is equal, and theoretically tension should be kept in reverse side
Unanimously, but the warp thread of flower in fabric face forms flower pattern by floating long line, and interleaving degress is relatively fewer, and the warp thread of flowerpot is being knitted
Object front and weft yarn with plain weave at upper layer cloth, interleaving degress is relatively more, thus flower warp thread hang weight it is most heavy, about
1.5kg, to increase its warp tension；Flowerpot warp thread takes second place, and hangs weight about 1kg, and green rattan warp thread floats long line and do not grow, and continues absolutely
Continuous to interweave, it is most light that warp thread hangs weight, hangs weight about 0.5kg, suitably plus a small amount of tension；It is then pressed normal condition and is bundled in ground
On the back rest；
(2) filling mode:
Flowerpot part is two-layer fabric, and nano silver fibre is filled in flowerpot, grasps the filling time；According to grain pattern arrangement, first
It calls card one to knit and is left white 16 latitudes, then card two is called to start self-figure basin, be the starting point of longitudinal two-layer fabric herein, with knitting
The progress made, layer cloth flowerpot increasingly have a type, and flowerpot weft yarn is 40 latitudes, and filling is silver-colored in starting toward flowerpot when knitting to 36 latitude
Fiber clamps appropriate silver fiber with tweezers and is inserted in a horizontally-arranged flowerpot one by one, considers the three-dimensional sense and function that enhance flowerpot
Property, the loading of silver fiber can be increased suitably, and flowerpot is closed by last 4 latitude；
(3) picking sequence is as follows:
When self-figure basin, weft yarn has white, shallow brown two kinds of colors, needs two weft inserters, according to weft yarn arrangement sequence carry out picking, 1
Shallow palm fibre 1 is white will continuously to throw 4 times, just can guarantee the formation of tartan plaid basin；In addition, total number of latitude of flowerpot is 40 latitudes, 40 latitudes are subsequent
It is shallowly brown that weft yarn only throws a barry dyeing；Because loom used in the product is manual wefting insertion and beating, has to control in weaving and beat
Latitude dynamics firmly uniformly should prevent flowerpot, flower not of uniform size.
3. the weaving process of filled type functionality small jacquard fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that: described knits
The warp density on machine of object be 455/10cm, weft density on machine be 242/10cm, lower machine through it is close be 475/10cm, lower machine filling density is
258/10cm, warp thread weave shrinkage 4.2%, weft shrinkage 6.6%, porter 64#。
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