CN102365074A - Powder composition containing fusiform particles for cosmetic use - Google Patents

Powder composition containing fusiform particles for cosmetic use Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102365074A
CN102365074A CN2009801586120A CN200980158612A CN102365074A CN 102365074 A CN102365074 A CN 102365074A CN 2009801586120 A CN2009801586120 A CN 2009801586120A CN 200980158612 A CN200980158612 A CN 200980158612A CN 102365074 A CN102365074 A CN 102365074A
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powder composition
powder
filler
compositions
described powder
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松藤慎一
川本真
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0245—Specific shapes or structures not provided for by any of the groups of A61K8/0241
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/654—The particulate/core comprising macromolecular material

Abstract

A powder composition for cosmetic use containing fusiform particles in addition to a filler and a pigment and other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, the fusiform particles being made of an organosilicone having a crosslinked polysiloxane structure, and having diameters along major axis L1 between approximately 0.05 micro meter and approximately 20 micro meter, diameters along minor axes L2 between approximately 0.03 micro meter and approximately 15 micro meter, and L1/L2 between approximately 1.1 and approximately 3.3.

Description

What be used for cosmetic use contains the particulate powder composition of spindle shape
Technical field
The present invention relates to be used for the powder composition of cosmetic use, powder foundation cream particularly, it comprises the granule that has such as non-(partly) spherical form of spindle shape shape, also cries " rugby " shape according to the present invention.
Background
Expectation provides powder composition, particularly has the dry foundation of homogeneous texture (smooth texture).Yet, also seek such as the good press forming compatibility, still less other characteristics of chip (littering) and high drop strength etc., particularly when compositions exists with the form of compact powder (compact powder).
The preparation of compact powder causes a large amount of difficulties because final composition must be enough all even closely, with the fragmentation of the product that prevents particularly to cause by bump.In order subsequently it to be applied on the horn, particularly on skin, compact powder also must be convenient to move, and moves the product that needs quantity to allow user.
Disclosure of the Invention
In view of existing product still needs improved smoothness and has the good press forming compatibility, chip still less simultaneously and the fact of high drop strength; Inventor of the present invention has tested numerous granules of desiring to be included in the dry foundation; And find that comprising spindle shape granule can provide the dry foundation of the characteristic with requirement, thereby accomplished the present invention.
According to an aspect of the present invention; The inventor proposes a kind of powder composition that is used for cosmetic use; Be in particular the compact powder form; It comprises spindle shape granule and filler, optional pigment and the acceptable component of other cosmetics, and spindle shape granule is processed by the organosilicon with cross linking polysiloxane structure (organosilicone), and along longitudinal axis L 1Diameter between about 0.05 micron to about 20 microns, along minor axis L 2Diameter between about 0.03 micron to about 15 microns, and L 1/ L 2Between about 1.1 to about 3.3.
For example, describe spindle shape granule among the Japan patent applicant announce 2003-171465 by Takemoto Fat and Oil submission and obtained the particulate method of spindle shape.
In this manual, except as otherwise noted, term " cosmetic use " comprises the purposes that is used for so-called cosmetics and Dermatology purpose and aesthetic purposes.Another theme of the present invention is to the cosmetic of human horn (such as skin, hair or fingernail, and more particularly skin) or the cosmetic process of nursing.
Compositions of the present invention can be the cosmetic that is used for skin or the compositions of nursing, and can kermes, eye shadow, face powder, foundation cream, concealer (concealer), the product of dressing up health, the product of nursing face, the product of nursing health or the form of sunscreen product be provided.More specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of foundation compositions.
Spindle shape in this description or " rugby " shape refer to such shape: sphere extends in one direction, thereby has a major axis, and spindle shape granule has the maximum gauge L between about 0.05 micron to about 20 microns along this major axis 1, and two perpendicular to major axis and mutually perpendicular minor axis L 2, spindle shape granule has the minimum diameter between about 0.03 micron to about 15 microns along this minor axis, and L 1/ L 2Between about 1.1 to about 3.3.
Organosilicon material with cross linking polysiloxane structure preferably comprises formula (I): SiO 2And formula (II): R 1SiO 1.5The unit, in fact even by it form, wherein R 1Expression contains the organic group of the carbon atom that directly links to each other with silicon atom.Organic group can be reactive organic group or not reactive organic group, and is preferably not reactive organic group.
Organosilicon material with cross linking polysiloxane structure also preferably comprises the formula of being respectively (I): SiO 2, formula (II): R 1SiO 1.5And formula (III): R 2R 3First, second of SiO and trisiloxanes unit, wherein R 1, R 2And R 3Any, identical or different in the organic group that contains the carbon atom that directly links to each other with silicon atom.R 2And R 3Also can be arbitrary in the following organic group independently: not reactive organic group, or do not have the organic group of reactive group, or reactive organic group, or have the organic group of reactive group.Yet, preferred R at least 2And R 3In any is the organic group that has reactive organic group or have reactive group.
Not reactive organic group can be C 1-C 4Alkyl, particularly methyl, ethyl, propyl group or butyl or phenyl, and be preferably methyl.
Reactive organic group can be epoxy radicals, (methyl) acryloxy, thiazolinyl, mercapto alkyl, aminoalkyl or haloalkyl, glycerol oxygen base (glyceroxy), urea groups or cyanic acid.Reactive organic group preferably can be epoxy radicals, (methyl) acryloxy, thiazolinyl or mercapto alkyl or aminoalkyl.Reactive organic group comprises 2-6 carbon atom usually, is in particular 2-4 carbon atom.
Possibly mention, 2-glycidoxypropyl ethyl, 3-glycidoxypropyl or 2-(3, the 4-epoxycyclohexyl) propyl group is as epoxy radicals.
Possibly mention, 3-methacryloxypropyl or 3-acryloxy propyl group are as (methyl) acryloxy.
Possibly mention, vinyl, pi-allyl or isopropenyl are as thiazolinyl.
Possibly mention, mercapto propyl group or mercapto ethyl are as the mercapto alkyl.
Possibly mention, 3-[(2-amino-ethyl) amino] propyl group, 3-aminopropyl or N, the N-dimethylaminopropyl is as aminoalkyl.
Possibly mention, 3-chloropropyl or trifluoro propyl are as haloalkyl.
Possibly mention, 3-glycerol oxygen base propyl group or 2-glycerol oxygen base ethyl are as glycerol oxygen base.
Possibly mention, 2-urea groups ethyl is as urea groups.
Possibly mention, cyanogen propyl group or cyanoethyl are as cyanic acid.
Preferably in formula (II) unit, R 1The expression methyl.
Advantageously, organosilicon material comprises unit (I) and (II), according to unit (I)/unit (II) molar ratio range from 30/70 to 50/50, and preferably from 35/65 to 45/55.
Equally advantageously; Organosilicon material comprises unit (I), (II) and (III); The mol ratio of total moles and trisiloxanes unit (III) that makes first siloxane unit (I) and second siloxane unit (II) is about 99: 1-50: between 50, more preferably from about 90: 10-60: between 40.The mol ratio of first siloxane unit (I) and second siloxane unit (II) can be preferably about 23: 77-40: between 60.
Organic silicon granule can be especially can be according to comprising that the method with the next stage obtains:
(a) in the presence of at least a hydrolyst and optional at least a surfactant, with formula SiX 4Chemical compound (IV) and formula R 4SiY 3Chemical compound (V) be introduced in the water-bearing media, wherein X and Y represent independently of each other: C 1-C 4Alkoxyl, comprise C 1-C 4The alkoxyl ethyoxyl of alkoxyl, C 2-C 4Acyloxy, comprise C 1-C 4The N of alkyl, N-dialkyl amido, hydroxyl, halogen atom or hydrogen atom, and R representes to comprise the organic group of the carbon atom that directly links to each other with silicon atom; With
(b) under 30-85 degree centigrade temperature, stage (a) gained mixture is contacted at least 2 hours operation with aqueous solution, this aqueous solution comprises at least a polymerization catalyst and optional at least a surfactant.
Stage (a) is equivalent to hydrolysis and the stage (b) is equivalent to condensation reaction.
In the stage (a), the molar ratio range of chemical compound (IV) and chemical compound (V) usually from 23/77 to 40/60, advantageously from 35/65 to 45/45, and be preferably 40/60.
Organic silicon granule also possibly obtain according to comprising with the method for next stage:
(a) in the presence of at least a hydrolyst, with formula SiX 4Silicon compound (IV), the formula R of formation silanol 4SiY 3The silicon compound (V) and the formula R of formation silanol 5R 6SiZ 2The silicon compound (VI) of formation silanol introduce in the water-bearing media; Silicon compound (V) for silicon compound (IV) that forms silanol and formation silanol: the mol ratio that forms the silicon compound (VI) of silanol is 99: 1-50: 50; Be preferably 90: 10-60: 40, make that (further the mol ratio of the silicon compound of the formation silanol of preferred formula IV and V is 23: 77-40: 60) to produce silanol compound in the silicon compound hydrolysis that forms silanol; With
(b) in the presence of at least a hydrolyst, in water-bearing media, cause the condensation reaction of the silanol compound that is generated
Water and chemical compound (IV) and the weight ratio scope that (V) adds up to preferably from 10/90 to 70/30.Chemical compound (IV) and the order of introducing (V) depend on their hydrolysis rate usually.From 0 to 40 degree centigrade usually of the temperature range of hydrolysis, and in order to prevent the too early condensation of chemical compound, usually can be above 30 degrees centigrade.
For chemical compound (IV), (V) and X (VI), Y and Z group:
Possibly mention, methoxy or ethoxy is as C 1-C 4Alkoxyl;
Possibly mention, methoxy ethoxy or butoxy ethyoxyl are as comprising C 1-C 4The alkoxyl ethyoxyl of alkoxyl;
Possibly mention, acetoxyl group or propionyloxy are as C 2-C 4Acyloxy;
Possibly mention, dimethylamino or lignocaine are as comprising C 1-C 4The N of alkyl, the N-dialkyl amido;
Possibly mention, the chlorine or bromine atom is as halogen atom;
Possibly mention, tetramethoxy-silicane, tetraethoxysilane, four butoxy silanes, trimethoxy Ethoxysilane, three butoxy Ethoxysilanes, tetrem acyloxy silane, four propionyloxy silane (tetrapropioxysilane), four (dimethylamino) silane, four (lignocaine) silane, silane tetrol (silanetetraol), chlorosilane triol, two silicon hexachlorides alcohol, tetrachloro silicane or chloro three hydrogen silanes are as the chemical compound of formula (IV).The chemical compound of formula (IV) is preferably selected from tetramethoxy-silicane, tetraethoxysilane, four butoxy silanes and their mixture.
After the polyreaction, the chemical compound of formula (IV) causes the unit of formula (I) to form.
After the polyreaction, the chemical compound of formula V causes the unit of formula (II) to form.
R group in the chemical compound of formula V have with to the R in formula (II) chemical compound 1The said identical implication of group.
Possibly mention; MTMS, ethyl triethoxysilane, propyl group three butoxy silanes, butyl three butoxy silanes, phenyl trimethoxy Ethoxysilane, methyl three butoxy Ethoxysilanes, methyl triacetoxysilane, methyl three propionyloxy silane, methyl three (dimethylamino) silane, methyl three (lignocaine) silane, methyl-monosilane triol, methyl chloride are for Disilicoethane alcohol, methyl trichlorosilane or methyl three hydrogen silanes, as the examples for compounds of the formula V that comprises not reactive organic group R.
Possibly mention, the examples for compounds as the formula V that comprises reactive organic group R has:
The silane that contains epoxy radicals; Such as (3-glycidoxypropyl) trimethoxy silane, (3-glycidoxypropyl) triethoxysilane, [2-(3, the 4-epoxycyclohexyl) ethyl] trimethoxy silane, (3-glycidoxypropyl) methyl dimethoxysilane, (2-glycidoxypropyl ethyl) methyl dimethoxysilane, (3-glycidoxypropyl) two-methyl methoxy base silane or (2-glycidoxypropyl ethyl) dimethyl methyl TMOS;
The silane that contains (methyl) acryloxy is such as (3-methacryloxypropyl) trimethoxy silane or (3-acryloxy propyl group) trimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains thiazolinyl is such as vinyltrimethoxy silane, allyltrimethoxysilanis or isopropenyl trimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains sulfydryl is such as sulfydryl-propyl trimethoxy silicane or mercapto ethyl trimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains aminoalkyl is such as (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxy silane, (3-[(2-amino-ethyl) amino] propyl group) trimethoxy silane, (N, N-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxy silane or (N, N-dimethyl aminoethyl) trimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains haloalkyl is such as (3-chloropropyl) trimethoxy silane or trifluoro propyl trimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains glycerol oxygen base is such as (3-glycerol oxygen base propyl group) trimethoxy silane or two (3-glycerol oxygen base propyl group) dimethoxy silane;
The silane that contains urea groups is such as (3-urea groups propyl group) trimethoxy silane, (3-urea groups propyl group) methyl dimethoxysilane or (3-urea groups propyl group) dimethyl methyl TMOS;
The silane that contains cyanic acid is such as cyanogen propyl trimethoxy silicane, cyanogen propyl group methyl dimethoxysilane or cyanogen propyl-dimethyl methoxy silane.
The chemical compound that comprises the formula V of reactive organic group R be preferably selected from the silane that contains epoxy radicals, contain (methyl) acryloxy silane, contain thiazolinyl silane, contain the silane of sulfydryl or contain the silane of aminoalkyl.
The chemical compound (IV) and the instance (V) that are preferred for embodiment of the present invention are respectively tetraethoxysilane and MTMS.
Possibly be used as having of hydrolysis and polymerization catalyst individually: base catalyst, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or amine (such as ammonia, trimethylamine, triethylamine or tetramethylammonium hydroxide); Or acidic catalyst, it is from organic acid, such as selecting in citric acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, p-methyl benzenesulfonic acid, DBSA, the dodecyl sodium sulfonate, or from mineral acid, such as selecting in hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid or the phosphoric acid.When it existed, employed surfactant was preferably nonionic or anion surfactant or the mixture of the two.Dodecylbenzene sodium sulfonate can be used as anion surfactant.The end of hydrolysis is indicated by the generation of water-fast product (IV) and disappearance (V) and homogenizing liquid layer.
The silicon compound of the formation silanol of formula (VI) is the result to form siloxane unit (III).Z group in the formula (VI) can be selected from the cited group of radicals X in the formula (IV).R in the formula (VI) 5And R 6Can be selected from the R in the formula (III) 2And R 3Described group.
Another catalyst that the condensation stage (b) can be used the catalyst identical with the said hydrolyzed stage or from above-mentioned those catalyst, selected.
When this process finishes, obtain the suspension of thin organic silicon granule in water, wherein granule can randomly separate from their medium subsequently.Therefore said process can comprise the other filtration stage by the product of (b) stage gained, and for example on membrane filter, optional is with the centrifugal stage of filter liquor subsequently, is intended to granule is separated from liquid medium, and is the stage of dried particles subsequently.Certainly can use other separation methods.
In a special embodiment, spindle shape granule has the crack along its major axis.
And by weight, spindle shape granule is generally the 40wt% that is less than of powder composition, preferably between about 1wt% is to about 40%, preferably at about 5wt% with between the 20wt%, more preferably arrives between about 15wt% at about 10wt%.
In a special embodiment, cross linking polysiloxane comprises and is respectively SiO 2, R 1SiO 1.5And R 2R 3First, second of SiO and trisiloxanes unit, wherein R 1, R 2And R 3Any, identical or different in the organic group that contains the carbon atom that directly links to each other with silicon atom.The mol ratio of trisiloxanes unit and first, second and trisiloxanes unit total moles is between 1-50%.
The mol ratio of first siloxane unit and second siloxane unit is about 23: 77-40: between 60.In powder composition of the present invention, R 2And R 3In at least one and R 1Can preferably be selected from: epoxy radicals, (methyl) acryloxy, mercapto alkyl, aminoalkyl and contain any organic group in the above group.
Filler
The filler (one or more) that exists in the compositions can be spherical or non-sphere.In a special embodiment, compositions comprises non-Ball-type packing at least.
Especially, the filler in the compositions comprises at least a tabular or the filler of stratiform form and other Ball-type packings of choosing wantonly, and said filler is selected from: Talcum, Muscovitum; Silicon dioxide, the powder that powder that the powder that Kaolin, polyamide form, gather-Beta-alanine forms and polyethylene form, the powder that tetrafluoro ethylene polymer (PTFE) forms; Lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride gathers the polymerization tiny balloon of (vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile or the polymerization tiny balloon of acrylic copolymer; The silicones microballon, the granule that the polysiloxane elastomer forms, winnofil, magnesium carbonate; Basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, Barium Sulfate, aluminium oxide; Polyurethane powder, compounded mix, hollow silicon dioxide microsphere; Glass or ceramic microcapsule, or by having 8-22 carbon atom, being preferably the metallic soap that the organic carboxyl acid of 12-18 carbon atom is derived and obtained, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt or myristic acid magnesium.
In a preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises at least a filler, and this filler is non-sphere and has lamellar or the stratiform form.
We can enumerate lauroyl lysine, Muscovitum, Talcum, boron nitride, Kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, Barium Sulfate, perlite and their the mixture instance as this filler.
In a special embodiment, compositions comprises at least a layered fillers, is selected from Talcum, Muscovitum, boron nitride and their mixture especially.
Said filler can carry out surface treatment by silicone compounds and/or aminoacid.
The instance of filler of being convenient to lamellar of the present invention or stratiform form is as shown in table 1 below.
Figure BPA00001446023200091
NT=is untreated
LL-5%=handles through 5% lauroyl lysine
Especially, layered fillers can be selected from:
-Talcum, it is a magnesium silicate hydrate, the Talcum of particularly being sold with title " Talc P3 " with title " Talc Luzenac00 " and Nippon Talc by Luzenac;
-Kaolin, it is an aluminium hydrosilicate, is provided with the particle form that has usually less than the anisotropy shape of 30 micron-scales.Spendable Kaolin is the commodity of being sold with title " Kaolin Supreme 1 " by English China Clays.
-Muscovitum or aluminium silicate are selected from white mica, phlogopite, biotite (tiotite), sericite, lepidolite, paragonite, emerylite, roscoelite, contain the artificial or synthetic mica that replaces the fluorine atom of hydroxyl in the natural mica, and these micaceous heating or calcination product.Muscovitum provides with sheet form usually, and it is of a size of the 2-200 micron, preferred 5-70 micron, and thickness is the 0.1-5 micron, preferred 0.2-3 micron.Spendable Muscovitum does, for example, and those that sell with title " Mica Concord " with title " Mica SFG70 " or by Sciama by Aspanger.
-stratiform silicon dioxide, particularly such as by Maprecos with title " SG Flake 3M " or the commodity sold with title " Chemicelen " by Sumitomo.
-and their mixture
According to a preferred embodiment, layered fillers is selected from Talcum, Muscovitum, boron nitride and their mixture.
According to a concrete embodiment; Gross weight with respect to compositions; Talcum, Muscovitum and/or boron nitride can from 5 to 90% weight content range be present in the compositions of the present invention; Preferred from 10 to 85% weight, more preferably from 20 to 80% weight, and the more preferably weight of from 50 to 80% compositionss.
With respect to the gross weight of compositions, the content range that all fillers in the present composition can from 5 to 90% weight exists, preferred from 10 to 85% weight, more preferably from 20 to 80% weight, and the more preferably weight of from 50 to 80% compositionss.
Especially, the filler of lamellar or stratiform form be in the present composition filler total amount 50 to 100%.
Compositions also can comprise Ball-type packing, especially for the sliding that improves compositions.This Ball-type packing can be selected from: the powder that powder that the powder that polyamide forms, gather-Beta-alanine forms and polyethylene form, and the silicones microballon, the granule that the polysiloxane elastomer forms, polyurethane powder, and composition thereof.Ball-type packing can the 0-20% composition weight content range have 1-10% composition weight particularly.
Pigment
Powder composition of the present invention particularly, if it is a cosmetic product, can comprise at least a pigment.
Term pigment is construed as and is meant Any shape, white or colour, inorganic or organic granule, and it is insoluble to Physiological Medium and it is intended to make compositions painted.Pigment can be white and/or colored and inorganic and/or organically.
According to a concrete embodiment, compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a pigment that is selected from inorganic pigment.These inorganic pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigment especially.
In inorganic pigment, possibly mention: titanium dioxide (optional), zirconium or cerium oxide through surface treatment; And zinc, ferrum (black, yellow or red) or chromated oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and barba hispanica; And metal dust (such as aluminium powder or copper powder) and their mixture.
According to an embodiment preferred, be present in the inorganic pigment in the present composition, particularly metal oxide pigment, be selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and/or ferrum oxide.
According to a concrete embodiment, compositions can comprise at least two kinds of different pigment.According to a same embodiment preferred, compositions can comprise at least a first pigment and at least a titanium dioxide second pigment that is selected from ferrum oxide.
Except that inorganic pigment, compositions of the present invention can comprise organic pigment.In organic pigment, possibly mention the pigment of white carbon black, D and C type and based on the color lake of alkermes, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
Pigment also can comprise with the easy color pigment (goniochromatic pigment) in angle.The change color that these pigment are relatively large along with viewing angle appears.Be prone to color pigment with the angle and can be selected from, for example, comprise the pigment and the liquid crystal pigment of multi-coated interference structure.
Under the situation of multiple structure, the latter can comprise, and is for example two-layer at least, and every layer (independent or be not independent of other layer), for example, by at least a material preparation that is selected from following material: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2O 3, MgO, Y 2O 3, S 2O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2O 5, Ta 2O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloy, polymer and their combination.
What comprise multiple structure is prone to toner those in following document, describing: US-A-3 especially with the angle, and 438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170; 439, EP-A-341,002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472; 371, EP-A-395,410, EP-A-753,545, EP-A-768,343, EP-A-571,836, EP-A-708; 154, EP-A-579,091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364; 467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO-9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-196,14,637.They provide with the sheet form with metallochrome.
Can be used for multiple structure of the present invention does, for example, and following structure: Al/SiO 2/ Al/SiO 2/ Al; Cr/MgF 2/ Al/MgF 2/ Al; MoS 2/ SiO 2/ Al/SiO 2/ MoS 2Fe 2O 3/ SiO 2/ Al/SiO 2/ Fe 2O 3Fe 2O 3/ SiO 2/ Fe 2O 3/ SiO 2/ Fe 2O 3MoS 2/ SiO 2/ Muscovitum oxide/SiO 2/ MoS 2Fe 2O 3/ SiO 2/ Muscovitum oxide/SiO 2/ Fe 2O 3Thickness according to different layers obtains various colors.Therefore, about structure Fe 2O 3/ SiO 2/ Al/SiO 2/ Fe 2O 3, be the SiO of 320-350nm to thickness 2Layer, color is from gold-green ash-red of becoming; To thickness is the SiO of 380-400nm 2Layer, color is a gold from red stain; To thickness is the SiO of 41O-420nm 2Layer, color is green from purple stain; And to thickness is the SiO of 430-440nm 2Layer, color becomes red from coppery.
Therefore, multiple structure can be inorganic or organic in essence.Thickness according to each different layers obtains various colors.According to the invention comprise the multi-coated interference structure be prone to color pigment those in following document, describing: US-A-3 especially with the angle, 438,796, EP-A-227,423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170; 439, EP-A-341,002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472; 371, EP-A-395,410, EP-A-753,545, EP-A-768,343, EP-A-571,836, EP-A-708,154, EP-A-579; 091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4; 225,031, WO-9517479 (BASF) and DE-A-196,14,637 and their combination.They provide with the sheet form with metallochrome.
Comprise being prone to color pigment with the angle and can be selected from and comprise following commerce and be prone to color pigment of multi-coated interference structure: the Infinite Colors that comes from Shiseido with the angle; The Sicopearl Fantastico that comes from BASF; The Colorstream, Xirallic and the Xirona that come from Merck; Come from the Colorglitter of Flex and their mixture.
Especially, at application EP-A-1, liquid crystal pigment has been described in 046,692.Those known CTFA Polyacrylate 4 by name and by Wacker with title " Helicone TrademarkHC Sapphire ", " Helicone TrademarkHC Scarabeus ", " Helicone TrademarkHC Jade ", " Helicone TrademarkHC Maple ", " Helicone TrademarkHC XL Sapphire ", " Helicone TrademarkHC XL Scarabeus ", " Helicone TrademarkHC XL Jade " with " Helicone Trademark" commodity of selling can use as liquid crystal particle HC XL Maple especially.
With respect to the gross weight of compositions, the content range that pigment can 0-30% weight is present in the compositions of the present invention, is in particular 1-30% weight, preferred 5-20% weight and more preferably 5-15% weight.
Acceptable other components of cosmetics do, for example, and wax class, antiseptic, cosmetics active principle, wetting agent (moisturizing agent), UV screener, thickening agent, water, surfactant, binding agent or spice.Acceptable other components of cosmetics can be one or more powder phases, comprise spherical solid granule, boron nitride particle, laminate granular, additional particulates, fatty binder, wax class, paste fat thing and other additives.
Fatty binder
Compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a fatty binder.
In the implication that should use, the terms fat binding agent is interpreted as be meant the fatty phase that comprises at least a oil usually.This fat is particularly useful as the disperse medium of powder phase mutually.Fatty binder can advantageously comprise at least a oil.
Fatty binder also can comprise the wax class.
Oil can be selected from the oil of tradition as the binding agent in loose or the compact powder.These oil can be selected from especially:
-ermine oil, turtle oil, Oleum Glycines, Oleum Vitis viniferae, Oleum sesami, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Oleum helianthi, Oleum Gossypii semen, American Avocado Tree oil, olive oil, Oleum Ricini, Simmondsia chinensis oil or Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen;
-hydrocarbon ils is such as liquid paraffin, squalane or liquid petrolatum;
-fatty ester is such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, stearic acid isodecyl ester, Standamul 7061, lauric acid hexyl ester, isononyl isononanoate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, lauric acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, myristic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester, lactic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester, succinic acid two (2-ethylhexyl) ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, three glyceryl isostearates or three isostearic acids, two glyceride;
-silicone oil is such as polymethyl siloxane, PSI, fatty acid modified polysiloxanes, aliphatic alcohol or polyoxyalkylene, fluorosilicone or perfluor carburetion;
-higher fatty acids is such as myristic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid, mountain Yu acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
-high fatty alcohol is such as recheton (ketanol), stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol;
-Shi (I) gathers (fluoromethane alkyl) (dimethyl) siloxanes:
Figure BPA00001446023200141
Wherein:
The integer that-n representative from 5 to 90 changes, especially from 30 to 80 and especially from 50 to 80,
The integer that-m representative from 1 to 150 changes, especially from 1 to 80 and especially from 1 to 40,
The integer that-a representative from 0 to 5 changes, and
-Rf representes to comprise the perfluoro alkyl group of 1-8 carbon atom;
And
-their mixture.
According to an embodiment preferred; Oil is selected from the fat acid ester, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, stearic acid isodecyl ester, Standamul 7061, lauric acid hexyl ester, isononyl isononanoate, Palmic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, lauric acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Palmic acid 2-octyl group ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, myristic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester, lactic acid 2-octyl group dodecyl ester, succinic acid two (2-ethylhexyl) ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, three glyceryl isostearates or three isostearic acids, two glyceride.
With respect to the gross weight of binding agent, the oil of binding agent can 10-100% weight exist.With respect to the gross weight of compositions, the content range that binding agent can 0.5-15% weight is present in the compositions of the present invention particularly 1-10% weight and more preferably 1.5-5% weight.
Additive
Compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a other conventional components of cosmetics; This component can be selected from especially: surfactant, antioxidant, spice, antiseptic, nertralizer, opacifier, vitamin, wetting agent, reagent, screening agent, skin-remove stricture of vagina (dermo-decontracting) activating agent, soothing agent (soothing agent), stimulate corium or epidermis macromole synthetic and/or prevent the reagent of its decomposition, anti-saccharifying (antiglycation) agent, irritation (irritation) agent, remover (desquamating agent), depigmenting agent, anti-coloring agent or short coloring agent (propigmenting agent) from tanned (self-tanning) chemical compound, crease-resistant activating agent, emollient, hydrophilic or lipophilic active principle, antipollution or free radical, the NO-synthase inhibitor, stimulate fibroblast or Keratinocytic propagation and/or Keratinocytic differentiation reagent, act on microcirculatory reagent, act on the metabolic reagent of cellular energy, renovation agent and their mixture.
In a special embodiment, surfactant comprises zinc stearate, and binding agent comprises that mineral oil or phenyl gather trimethicone (phenyl trimethicone), and antiseptic comprises phenoxyethanol.
According to an embodiment preferred, compositions of the present invention can be the cosmetic composition of powder type, and it comprises:
I) at least a filler with respect to the gross weight of compositions, is 20-85% weight, preferred 50-85% weight,
The spindle shape granule that is ii) made by the organosilicon with cross linking polysiloxane structure with respect to the gross weight of compositions, is 1-40% weight, preferred 5-20% weight, and along longitudinal axis L 1Diameter between about 0.05 micron to about 20 microns, along minor axis L 2Diameter between about 0.03 micron to about 15 microns, and L 1/ L 2Between about 1.1 to about 3.3,
Iii) at least a pigment with respect to the gross weight of compositions, is 0-30% weight, preferred 1-30% weight,
Iv) at least a fatty binder with respect to the gross weight of compositions, is 2-15% weight, preferred 5-10% weight.
Especially, filler is non-Ball-type packing, has lamellar or stratiform form.Only if outside the Ball-type packing, compositions also can comprise Ball-type packing, and especially, non-Ball-type packing is the 50-100% weight of total filler in the compositions.
In a preferred embodiment, pigment is inorganic pigment.Compositions advantageously comprises titanium dioxide and ferrum oxide.
Fatty binder advantageously comprises the fatty phase that contains oil, and said oil is selected from mineral oil, silicone oil and mixture especially.
According to an embodiment preferred, compositions of the present invention can be anhydrous composition.Term " anhydrous composition " is interpreted as the compositions that refers to comprise the water that is less than 2% weight; Actual water even less than 0.5% weight; And it is water-free in particular, and this water is not during preparation of compositions, to add, but corresponding to residual water that blended component provided.
In a special embodiment; Compositions of the present invention exists with the compact powder form; And can mix through composition (organic silicon granule, filler and optional pigment) and prepare the powder phase; At this moment follow to stir to add fatty phase, subsequently mixture is ground, sieves, also compacting in the impouring ware then.
Powder mutually uses the press compacting with the fatty mixture through grinding and sieving mutually, especially through using the pressure of 0.5MPa-10MPa scope, and the preferred pressure of 1MPa-5MPa scope.
The compositions that obtains like this is provided with the form of compact powder.
According to the present invention, powdery components can be cosmetics or the nursing product that is used for skin, and can kermes, eye shadow, face powder, foundation cream, concealer, dress up the product of health, the product of nursing face, the product of nursing health or the form of sunscreen product and provide.
More specifically, compositions is the powder foundation cream, is the form of compact powder especially.
The accompanying drawing summary
Fig. 1 is the figure that schematically shows spindle shape grain shape.
Fig. 2 is the figure that crackle forms during the compression moulding that shows at the bottom of the moulding powder.
Fig. 3 shows the amount of the product that obtains through the sponge wiping and the figure (formula I) of the amount of the chip (litter) of appearance simultaneously.
Fig. 4 is presented at the amount of 100 friction back chips.
Fig. 5 shows coefficient of friction.
Fig. 6 shows the drop strength of the product of die mould.
Embodiment is described
Below embodiment of the present invention will be described.It should be noted that providing embodiment and description thereof to be merely helps to understand the present invention, is limited to following embodiment and should not be construed as with the present invention by any way.
Fig. 1 schematically shows spindle shape coating of particles.Granule is a rugby shape, promptly along the diameter of major axis greater than any other diameter, and two minor axises and axis and orthogonal.In fact two minor axises can be defined as any direction, if these minor axises with the plane of axis on.Along longitudinal axis L 1Diameter between about 0.05 micron to about 20 microns, along minor axis L 2Diameter between about 0.03 micron to about 15 microns, and L 1/ L 2Between about 1.1 to about 3.3.As can be from Fig. 1 understood, on the granule that in following experiment, uses, along having groove on the surface of major axis.Yet groove is optional.
Following table 2 shows the form with spindle shape shape and particles of different sizes (embodiment granule 1 and embodiment granule 2) of the present invention; And bowl-type (reference particles 1 or NLK506), spherical (reference particles 2 or Tospearl; Reference particles 3 or Silica Beads SB700 and reference particles 4 or KSP300) more particulate form.Their average-size and frictional force also show in table 2.
Figure BPA00001446023200181
Table 3 shows the component of formula I, to wherein adding above-mentioned granule.Formula I comprises typical component in the cosmetic composition.
Following table 4 is presented at the embodiments of the invention (embodiment 1-8) of test and contrasts the particulate amount that comprises in the reference example (reference example 1-17). Particulate amount 5,10,15 and the scope of 20wt% in change.
Figure BPA00001446023200191
Figure BPA00001446023200201
Following table 5 shows another prescription of cosmetic composition, formula I I.Also comprise identical granule among the formula I I.
Figure BPA00001446023200211
Fig. 2 shows the compression moulding result who obtains after a kind of compositions of formula I is suppressed through the MIZUHO forcing press.Crackle as shown in Figure 2 occurs, and therefore confirm,, be not suitable for as cosmetic composition such as foundation cream, solid, cosmetic, eye shadow etc. for the compositions that comprises 15wt% or more Silica Beads SB700 or KSP300.In other words, find that reference example 11,12,16 is not suitable for as product.
Fig. 3 (A)-3 (F) demonstration is extracted the result who tests with chip to embodiment 1-8 and reference example 1-16.One of reason that reduces chip is, because the existence of chip, the outward appearance around the product is very in disorder.Test through repeating reciprocating test machine; The block of being processed by test composition is rubbed by sponge, and the amount amount (extracted amount) of the compositions that the measurement sponge is taken away behind preset friction number of times and that remain in (chip) compositions on block surface.As can be clearly from Fig. 3 (A) and 3 (B), when granule is the spindle shape, when NLK600 and NLK602, the chip in whole test specification be very little.When comprising other kind granules, except the situation of Tospearl, chip trends towards bigger, when particulate amount is higher than 10wt%, is unfavorable therefore particularly.See from the viewpoint of expecting less chip, think that compositions of the present invention and the compositions that comprises Tospearl are ideal, and other granules are not.
Fig. 4 shows the result that 2 the compositions of filling a prescription is carried out similar test.The amount of the chip after the pictorialization sponge friction 100 times.Even the result shows that when comprising Silica Beads SB700 or KSP300, a large amount of relatively chips occurs.Other results much at one and can accept comprise the compositions that comprises aspherical particle.
Fig. 5 shows the coefficient of friction (MIU) of compositions.Bulk powder to testing combination is measured coefficient of friction.Through test machine, record along the bulk powder surface and move needed power of sponge and the vertical power that puts on bulk powder, and confirm that its ratio is a coefficient of friction.Comprise that observed popular tendency does in the spindle shape grains of composition, when the particulate amount that comprises in the compositions increases (embodiment 1-8), coefficient of friction reduces.In the compositions that comprises bowl-type granule (reference example 1-4) and Silica Beads SB700, observe result much at one.Yet about comprising the compositions of Tospearl, no matter the particulate amount that comprises in the compositions, coefficient of friction is high, and this shows through adding Tospearl can not obtain smoothness.
Fig. 6 shows the drop strength of compositions after the compression moulding.The powder of warp compacting drops on the ceramic tile from the height of 20cm, up to the initial weight of loss 5%.Fig. 6 shows the number of times that compositions falls.By can be clear among the figure, compositions of the present invention, embodiment 9 and 10 shows very high anti-falling property, and compares with the blank sample that does not comprise spheroidal particle, comprises other kind grains of composition and resists to fall and tend to more fragility.
These test results are used number evaluation.Table 6 shows the definition of using in the assessment.
Figure BPA00001446023200231
Following table 7 shows the result that said definition is assessed according to table 6.Table 7 clearly illustrates, compares with comprising particulate other compositionss of other kinds, comprises the particulate embodiments of the invention of spindle shape and shows comprehensive advantage.Has shortcoming at least a characteristic that every kind of other compositions is described herein.
Figure BPA00001446023200232
Now can be clear; Discovery is used for can accepting component except filler and pigment and other cosmetics and also comprising the particulate powder composition of spindle shape and show the excellent characteristic that cosmetic composition requires of cosmetic use; Such as the good compression moulding compatibility, a spot of friction chip, little coefficient of friction, with the drop strength that guarantees that slick contact is become reconciled.
The embodiment of prescription
Kermes (blush)
The prescription of kermes (cheek) product is described below.
Figure BPA00001446023200233
Figure BPA00001446023200241
Eye shadow
The prescription of eye shadow product is described below.
Figure BPA00001446023200242
Foundation cream (compact powder)
The prescription of foundation cream (compact powder) product is described below.

Claims (12)

1. powder composition; Be in particular the compact powder form, be used for cosmetic use, it comprises spindle shape granule and filler and optional pigment and the acceptable component of other cosmetics; Said spindle shape granule is processed by the organosilicon with cross linking polysiloxane structure, and along longitudinal axis L 1Diameter between about 0.05 micron to about 20 microns, along minor axis L 2Diameter between about 0.03 micron to about 15 microns, and L 1/ L 2Between about 1.1 to about 3.3.
2. the described powder composition of claim 1, wherein spindle shape granule has the crack along its major axis.
3. a described powder composition in the claim 1 and 2; Wherein said spindle shape granule is less than the weight of 40wt% powder composition; Preferably arrive between about 40wt%, more preferably arrive between about 20wt%, more preferably arrive between about 15wt% at about 10wt% at about 5wt% at about 1wt%.
4. a described powder composition among the claim 1-3; Wherein filler is tabular or the non-Ball-type packing of stratiform form, such as lauroyl lysine, Muscovitum, Talcum, boron nitride, Kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, Barium Sulfate, perlite, PTFE and their mixture.
5. a described powder composition among the claim 1-3, wherein filler is the 5-90% of whole compositionss.
6. a described powder composition among the claim 1-3, wherein:
Said filler comprises the filler and other optional Ball-type packings of at least a tabular or stratiform form, and said filler is selected from powder that Talcum, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, Kaolin, polyamide form, gathers-powder that powder that Beta-alanine forms and polyethylene form, the powder that tetrafluoro ethylene polymer forms, lauryl lysine; Starch, boron nitride, the polymerization tiny balloon of (dichloroethylene)/acrylonitrile or acrylic copolymer partially; The silicones microsphere, the granule that silicone elastomer forms, winnofil; Magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite; Barium Sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder; Compounded mix, hollow silica microsphere, glass or ceramic microcapsule; Or the metallic soap that obtains by organic acid, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt or tetradecylic acid magnesium with 8-22 carbon atom, preferred 12-18 carbon atom;
Said pigment comprises one or more in the following material: through optional surface-treated titanium dioxide; Zirconium or cerium oxide; And zinc, ferrum (black, yellow or red) or chromated oxide; Manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferrum indigo plant; And metal dust, such as aluminium powder or copper powder; With their mixture; With
The acceptable component of other cosmetics comprises in wax class, antiseptic, cosmetics active principle, wetting agent, UV screener, thickening agent, water, surfactant, binding agent or the spice one or more.
7. the described powder composition of claim 4, wherein said surfactant comprises zinc stearate, said binding agent comprises that mineral oil or phenyl gather trimethicone, and said antiseptic comprises phenoxyethanol.
8. a described powder composition in the claim 1 and 5, wherein cross linking polysiloxane comprises and is respectively SiO 2, R 1SiO 1.5And R 2R 3First, second of SiO and trisiloxanes unit, wherein R 1, R 2And R 3For any organic group, identical or different with the carbon atom that directly links to each other with silicon atom.
9. each described powder composition among the claim 1-6, wherein the total moles of first siloxane unit and second siloxane unit and the unitary mol ratio of trisiloxanes are about 99: 1-50: between 50, more preferably from about 90: 10-60: between 40.
10. the described powder composition of claim 7, wherein the mol ratio of first siloxane unit and second siloxane unit is about 23: 77-40: between 60.
11. each described powder composition, wherein R among the claim 6-8 2And R 3In at least one and R 1Be selected from epoxy radicals, (methyl) propyl group acyloxy, mercapto alkyl, aminoalkyl and contain in the above group any organic group.
12. each described powder composition among the claim 1-9; Wherein powder composition is the product that is used for the cosmetic or the nursing of skin, and it is kermes, eye shadow, face powder, foundation cream, concealer, dresses up the product of health, nurses the product of face, the product of nursing health or the form of sunscreen product.
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Application publication date: 20120229