CN101864636A - Woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and production method thereof - Google Patents
Woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101864636A CN101864636A CN201010225250A CN201010225250A CN101864636A CN 101864636 A CN101864636 A CN 101864636A CN 201010225250 A CN201010225250 A CN 201010225250A CN 201010225250 A CN201010225250 A CN 201010225250A CN 101864636 A CN101864636 A CN 101864636A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a woven fabric having functions of isomerism on double side, guiding sweat on single direction and rapidly drying and a production method thereof. The front and back sides of the woven fabric of the invention have different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties; the back side is mainly provided with two or more stranded yarns formed by twisting water-refusing single yarns and hydrophilic single yarns; and the front side is mainly provided with the hydrophilic yarns. The front and back sides of the woven fabric have different hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties so a 'pushing and pulling' effect for water or sweat is generated. The back side of the fabric has hydrophobic property while maintaining a small hydrophilic property, so the water or sweat can be rapidly transmitted to the front side of the fabric and steamed, therefore realizing the function of guiding the sweat on single direction. When user sweats, the fabric is not next to the skin and will dry soon.
Description
Technical field
The invention provides a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven and the production method thereof of leading sweat, quick-drying function, belong to the textile dyeing and finishing technical field.
Background technology
Along with the development with articles of dress of improving constantly of people's living standard, the consumer is more and more higher to the comfortableness of clothing, pursuit functional and each side such as outward appearance and feel.Therefore, produce not only comfortable but also have certain functional fabric and clothing is the development trend of textile industry from now on.
Natural fabric, particularly pure cotton fabric, its comfortableness and the feature of environmental protection are subjected to consumer's favor deeply.Textile fiber has good hygroscopicity, but will be next to the shin after moisture absorption, makes the wearer feel uncomfortable.So production has moisture absorbing and sweat releasing and quick-drying function, fabric comfortable and easy to wear, dry and comfortable, good hand touch have good practicality.
In order to overcome cotton textiles or to be the blending clothes of main component problems next to the shin after perspiration with the cotton, improve the micro climate environment between the skin and clothing when perspiring, developed a series of products in recent years.Wherein most often adopt the reverse side of fibers material, the textile material of positive employing as knitted fabric.The reverse side fibers material, polypropylene fine denier silk for example, dacron fine-denier silk, and the foreign fiber etc. with groove structure has good wet transmitting performance, but water conservation not itself, thus sweat can be transferred to apace fabric face and rapidly diffusion reach the fast effect of doing.What " Dri-Fit " product of NIKE company adopted is exactly this method.
Chinese patent ZL200510061285.0 " all cotton hydroscopic fast-drying knitted fabric and production method thereof " discloses a kind of unidirectional production method of leading the knitting pure cotton fabric of sweat function that has.It mainly is that the water treatment yarn is refused in employing and the hydrophilic treatment yarn forms the hydrophobic surface with certain hydrophilic point at the knitted fabric reverse side, and fabric outer is a hydrophily, thereby reaches the fast effect of doing of intelligence.But this patented method can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Chinese patent ZL200410027297.7 " the textile fast production method of doing smart fabric of special arrangement " discloses a kind of unidirectional production method of leading the knitting textile thing of sweat function that has.It mainly is that the water treatment yarn is refused in employing and the hydrophilic treatment yarn forms the hydrophobic surface with certain hydrophilic point at the knitted fabric reverse side, and fabric outer is a hydrophily, thereby reaches the fast effect of doing of intelligence.But this patented method can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Chinese patent ZL200610035051.3 " a kind of comfortable fast ectonexine of doing has fabric and production method thereof hydrophilic, hydrophobic performance difference " discloses to adopt at fabric backing and has carried out hydrophobic coating or hydrophobic method for printing reaches the two-sided opposite sex, the effect of unidirectional perspire.The method of this patent not only needs special coating or printing equipment, and is higher to the specification requirement of coating or stamp simultaneously.The thickness of coating or stamp must be able to accurately be controlled.Thickness is too little, and then washability is poor; Thickness too conference influences the hydrophilicity of fabric face, thereby can reduce the unidirectional sweat performance of leading of fabric.
Another piece Chinese patent application " textile the unidirectional functional production of woven fabrics method of sweat of leading " (publication number CN 101463566A) adopts the hydrophilic dyeing of whole warp thread, and the method that the part weft yarn is refused water dyeing reaches the effect of unidirectional perspire.But this patented method wrong yarn problem occurs easily because of adopting hydrophilic yarn and the water-proof yarn method of picking at interval when weaving.The hydrophilic of fabric backing presents opposite sex distribution at the longitude and latitude both direction simultaneously, and sweat mainly spreads along fabric backing broadwise hydrophilic yarn during perspiration, and can not obtain the equally distributed fabric of hydrophilic point of reverse side.
Because the hydrophilic point of reverse side is not equally distributed in the fabric of prior art, so when wearing, can not disperse sweat equably, thereby can not obtain sufficient comfort and good surface appearance, so people require further improvement the structure of fabric to simplify even diffusion and the evaporation that weaving process obtains to help more sweat, improve the fabric of snugness of fit and aesthetic property.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, provide a kind of convenient for production, function is good has the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven and the production method thereof of leading sweat, quick-drying function.
The invention provides a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function, it is characterized in that, the tow sides possess hydrophilic property and the hydrophobic difference of described fabric, described reverse side mainly is arranged with by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn, because grain cross has only a kind of yarn, so hydrophilic point and refuse water spot and present even distribution; Described front mainly is arranged with hydrophilic yarn.Fabric of the present invention also can be that described reverse side all is by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; Described front all is a hydrophilic yarn.
Weft yarn in the woven of the present invention is by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; The warp thread of described fabric is a hydrophilic yarn, and the number of front riser is greater than the number of latitude floating-point in the fabric of the present invention, and organizational structure of fabrics is mainly twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
The invention provides a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, the unidirectional production method of leading the woven of sweat, quick-drying function, this method comprises with hydrophilic yarn and by hydrophilic single thread with refuse the twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread or multistrand yarn carries out look and knits woven operation.Knit in the woven operation at described look, warp thread adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 shows the situation of sweat in the reverse side diffusion of different fabrics.
Fig. 2 shows the situation of sweat in the diffusion of the front of different fabrics.
Wherein:
Fabric 1: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn all adopts water-proof yarn;
Fabric 2: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 4: 1;
Fabric 3: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 2: 1;
Fabric 4: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of weft yarn water-proof yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 1: 1;
Fabric 5: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn all adopts refuses water single thread and the hydrophilic single thread yarn behind twisted thigh also.
The specific embodiment
The definition of each term
" refusing the water single thread " of being mentioned in the present invention or " water-proof yarn " are meant to have hydrophobic yarn, it comprises synthetic fiber and through refusing the cotton yarn of water treatment, wherein synthetic fiber are selected from polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester, nylon, polyurethane, polyvinyl acetate, mineral fibres etc.The present invention preferably the cotton yarn through refusing water treatment for refusing water single thread or water-proof yarn.
" refusing water treatment " of mentioning among the present invention is meant the technology of using according to routine, with refusing the processing that the water consistent lubricant carries out, the described water consistent lubricant of refusing is the conventional WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent that uses in this area, for example can select methylol stearic amide, etherificate polyhydroxy melamine, containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or Organic fluoride emulsion for use.Wherein said methylol fatty acid class hydrophobicity auxiliary agent is preferably long-chain methylol fatty acid class, and its carbon chain lengths is preferably 14～28 carbon; Described containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion can be the containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of CATION silicon system, also can be the dimethyl silicone polymer containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of band active group or Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane Fluid emulsion etc.; Described Organic fluoride emulsion is selected from the Synergistic mixtures of fluorine-containing alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion or fluorine carbon and hydrocarbon class.
" hydrophilic single thread " and " hydrophilic yarn " mentioned in the present invention can be identical or different, and it is selected from natural fabrics such as cotton, flax, ramie, silk or through the natural fabric of hydrophilic treatment.The present invention is hydrophilic single thread and hydrophilic yarn through the cotton yarn of hydrophilic treatment preferably, and wherein hydrophilic yarn can be hydrophilic single thread or its folded yarn.
" hydrophilic treatment " of the present invention is meant the technology of using according to routine, the processing of carrying out with hydrophilic consistent lubricant, described hydrophilic consistent lubricant is the conventional hydrophily auxiliary agent that uses in this area, for example can select the derivative of fatty amine, fatty amine, silicone based or their combination for use.Preferred hydrophily selection of auxiliary hydrophilic organic silicon softener, the hydrophilic organic silicon softener can be selected the silicone softening agent of polyether-modified oxirane or expoxy propane polymerization for use.
Among the present invention, warp thread adopts through dyeing and the yarn after doing hydrophilic treatment.Warp thread can be single thread, also can be strand.Weft yarn adopts bifilar or multistrand yarn.Single thread carries out the branch cylinder after dyeing finishes handles, and wherein a part of yarn is carried out hydrophilic treatment, and another part yarn is refused water treatment.Single thread after passing through hydrophilic treatment and refusing water treatment is carried out and the twisted thigh.Wherein double strand yarn is that 1 strand of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 1 strand are refused water treatment single thread and twisted thigh; Three strands of yarns adopt 1 strand of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 2 strands to refuse water treatment single thread and twisted thigh, and perhaps 2 strands of hydrophilic treatment single thread and 1 strand are refused water treatment single thread and twisted thigh.
The yarn hydrophilic treatment adopts following technology: yarn joins in the aqueous solution that concentration is 0.5～10g/l hydrophily auxiliary agent after finishing dyeing and fixation and handles.Directly oven dry of back disposes.The derivative of hydrophily selection of auxiliary fatty amine, fatty amine, silicone based or their combination.Preferred hydrophily selection of auxiliary hydrophilic organic silicon softener, the hydrophilic organic silicon softener can be selected the silicone softening agent of polyether-modified oxirane or expoxy propane polymerization for use.Its consumption is every liter of treatment fluid 0.5～10 gram hydrophilic softener, and generally between 1: 5～1: 10, the processing time is 10～60 minutes to the weight ratio (bath raio) between handled cotton yarn and the described treatment fluid that contains softener, and treatment temperature is 30 ℃～100 ℃.Cotton yarn after the processing is 80 ℃～150 ℃ oven dry.
Yarn is refused water treatment and adopted following technology: yarn joins in the WATER REPELLENCY adjuvant water solution that concentration is 0.5～100g/l after finishing dyeing and fixation and handles.Directly oven dry of back disposes.The WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent can be selected methylol stearic amide, etherificate polyhydroxy melamine, containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion or Organic fluoride emulsion for use.Wherein said methylol fatty acid class hydrophobicity auxiliary agent is preferably long-chain methylol fatty acid class, and its carbon chain lengths is preferably 14～28 carbon; Described containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion can be the containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of CATION silicon system, also can be the dimethyl silicone polymer containing hydrogen silicone oil emulsion of band active group or Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane Fluid emulsion etc.; Described Organic fluoride emulsion is selected from the Synergistic mixtures of fluorine-containing alkyl acrylate copolymer emulsion or fluorine carbon and hydrocarbon class.The consumption of WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent is every liter of treatment fluid 0.5～100 gram WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent, weight ratio (bath raio) between handled cotton yarn and the described treatment fluid that contains the WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent is generally between 1: 5～1: 10, processing time is 10～60 minutes, and treatment temperature is 30 ℃～100 ℃.Cotton yarn after the WATER REPELLENCY auxiliary agent is handled is 80 ℃～150 ℃ oven dry.
Sizing: can select starching or exempt from starching according to actual kind demand.The starching kind is follow-up can to replace the destarch operation with one washing step for exempting from.
Weave: carry out according to the conventional yarn-dyed fabric technological process of production.
In the fabric of the present invention, the thicker and loose fabric of structure has two-sided preferably different in nature effect usually.On the contrary, frivolous, hard-packed fabric is because the diffusion velocity of moisture or sweat is slower, and the effect that influences the two-sided opposite sex and do soon.The latitude floating number of fabric face is few more, and the latitude floating number of fabric backing is many more, and effect is good more.Thereby the selected fabric of the present invention is mainly twill structure, satin weave structure and multi-arm structure.The relative plain weave structure of this kind fabric structure is more loose, and presents certain otherness through the distribution of weft yarn on the fabric two sides, thereby can get a desired effect.Preferred twill structure is 4/4 twill, 4/1 twill, and 3/1 twill, 2/1 twill, 2/1 herringbone is oblique, and 3/1 herringbone is oblique etc.; Preferred satin weave structure is 5 piece 3 and flies through the face satin weave that 5 piece 2 is flown through the face satin weave; Preferred multi-arm structure is twill or the satin weave multi-arm at the bottom of the plain weave.
Back arrangement: the back arrangement is carried out according to the flow process of grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → preshrunk.Wherein grey cloth pre-setting temperature is 130～190 ℃.Preferably, adopt 140～170 ℃.The purpose of grey cloth pre-setting is to improve the durability of water-proof yarn water repellency.Singe, destarch, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment process according to conventional yarn-dyed fabric production technology.The part kind can adopt exempts from sizing technique production, then simultaneously can exempt the destarch operation, and replaces with together common washing.Can carry out Liquid Ammonia Treatment to fabric according to actual needs.Hydrophilic softener is adopted in typing, has good moisture pick-up properties to guarantee fabric.
The fabric weft yarn of Sheng Chaning mainly is arranged in fabric backing like this, owing to weft yarn is by hydrophilic single thread and refuses the strand that water single thread plying forms, thus hydrophilic point and hydrophobic evenly distributed at fabric backing; Warp thread mainly is arranged in fabric face, because warp thread is a hydrophilic yarn all, thereby fabric face shows good hydrophilicity.Such structure has guaranteed the moisture pick-up properties that fabric backing is good, and sweat can be absorbed by hydrophilic point fast and be transferred to fabric face and rapid diffusion and evaporation, thereby reaches the fast effect of doing.Reverse side owing to fabric contains a certain proportion of hydrophobic point simultaneously, thereby greatly reduces the adhesion between clothes and the skin when perspiring, and has improved snugness of fit.
Compared with the prior art woven of the present invention and manufacture method thereof have following advantage:
1, the fabric weft yarn adopts a kind of yarn, compares with the method for water-proof yarn interval picking with adopting hydrophilic yarn, has avoided the wrong yarn problem that very easily occurs when weaving.Especially spending the type complexity when fabric, color is easier makes mistakes.
2, compare with the method for water-proof yarn interval picking with adopting hydrophilic yarn, hydrophilic point, the hydrophobic point of fabric backing of the present invention evenly distribute, thereby avoided clothing to become wet back sweat and mainly spread the uneven situation of appearance diffusion along the direction of hydrophilic yarn at the absorption sweat, help the even diffusion and the evaporation of sweat more, improved wearing comfortableness and aesthetic property.
3, coating or method for printing need special coating or printing equipment, and because woven itself is very frivolous, higher to the control difficulty of coating or stamp thickness.The too big moisture pick-up properties that influences fabric backing of coating or stamp thickness; The DeGrain of the too little two-sided opposite sex of thickness influences snugness of fit.And method of the present invention does not need special coating or printing equipment, utilizes general yarn-dyed fabric mill's existing equipment to produce.
Mode with embodiment further specifies the present invention below, but the present invention never only limits to the technical scheme of embodiment.
Embodiment one
The fabric warp thread adopts the 40s cotton yarn, and weft yarn adopts the 80s/2 cotton yarn.Adopt 2/1 twill left to right weave.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Will according to common process through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and the 40s cotton yarn of fixation treatment to add concentration be in hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft HWS (GE company) aqueous solution of 4g/l, handled 30 minutes at 40 ℃, calculate by weight, cotton yarn is 1:10 with the ratio (bath raio) of the hydrophily consistent lubricant aqueous solution.Yarns treated is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
The preparation of weft yarn:
With the textile single thread of 80s/1 according to common process carry out kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and fixation after carry out the branch cylinder.Get wherein the yarn of half and carry out the hydrophilic soft oil processing, to obtain the hydrophily single thread.The preparation condition of hydrophily single thread is identical with the preparation process condition of the warp thread of present embodiment.
Get above-mentioned second half yarn through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and fixation after the textile single thread of 80s/1 refuse water treatment.Concrete steps are: will according to common process through kiering, bleaching, dye, soap and the 80s/1 cotton yarn of fixation treatment joins in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) that concentration is 6g/l, handled 30 minutes at 60 ℃; bath raio is 1: 10, and the cotton yarn of handling is through 130 ℃ of hf dryings.
With the textile single thread of above-mentioned 80s/1 through the hydrophilic soft oil processing with above-mentioned to carry out twisted and plied on the yarn two-for-one twister be the 80s/2 cotton yarn through refusing the textile single thread of 80s/1 that the water consistent lubricant handles.
Weave: the grey cloth that is made into 3/1 twill left to right structure according to conventional method starching → warping → weaving process.
Back arrangement: grey cloth is carried out pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → shrinking processes.The pre-setting temperature is 150 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 50m/min.Singe, destarch, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.The hydrophilic softener Ultraphil DCW (Huntsman company) of 30g/l is adopted in the back typing.
Embodiment two
The fabric warp thread adopts the 80s/2 cotton yarn, and weft yarn adopts the 80s/2 cotton yarn.Adopt the oblique weave of 3/1 herringbone.
The preparation of warp thread:
80s/2 cotton yarn kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, after fixation is finished cotton yarn added in the aqueous solution that concentration is the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Ultraphil of 4g/l DCW (Huntsman company), handles 30 minutes at 40 ℃, bath raio is 1: 10.Yarns treated is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
The preparation of weft yarn:
80s single thread (single thread 1) kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
80s single thread (single thread 2) kiering → bleach → dye → soap, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/2 yarn in 1/1 ratio and sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of present embodiment.
Single thread 2 refuse water treatment be carry out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, behind the color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) of 6g/l, handled 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 ℃, and bath raio is 1: 10.The cotton yarn of handling is through 130 ℃ of hf dryings.
Weave: employing is exempted from sizing technique and is weaved, and fabric construction is that 3/1 herringbone is oblique.
Back arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → shrinking processes.The pre-setting temperature is 160 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 60m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.The DCW Conc. (Huntsman company) of 30g/l is adopted in typing.
Embodiment three
The fabric warp thread adopts the single cotton yarn of 40s, and weft yarn adopts the 80s/3 cotton yarn.Adopt 3/1 left twill weave.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, adding concentration after fixation is finished is in the aqueous solution of the hydrophilic consistent lubricant NT-H550 of 3g/l (Nanotex company), handles 20 minutes in 40 ℃, bath raio is 1: 8.Yarns treated is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
The preparation of weft yarn:
Single cotton yarn (single thread 1) kiering → bleach → dye → soap of 80s, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Single cotton yarn (single thread 2) kiering → bleach → dye → soap of 80s, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/3 yarn according to 1/2 ratio and sth. made by twisting
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of present embodiment.
Single thread 2 refuse water treatment be carry out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, behind the color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant Olephobol CO (Huntsman company) of 6g/l, handled 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 ℃, and bath raio is 1: 8.The cotton yarn of handling is through 130 ℃ of hf dryings.
Weave: be made into 3/1 left twill structure according to conventional starching → warping → weaving process
Back arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → shrinking processes.The pre-setting temperature is 170 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.The NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l is adopted in typing.
Embodiment four
The fabric warp thread adopts the 100s/2 single thread, and weft yarn adopts the 100s/2 yarn.Adopt and fly through face satin weave weave for 5 piece 3.
The preparation of warp thread:
Kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to common process, adding concentration after fixation is finished is in the aqueous solution of the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft of 3g/l JSS (GE company), handles bath raio 1: 10 30 minutes for 40 ℃.Yarns treated is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
The preparation of weft yarn:
Single cotton yarn (single thread 1) kiering → bleach → dye → soap of 100s, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Single cotton yarn (single thread 2) kiering → bleach → dye → soap of 100s, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to the 100s/2 yarn in 1/1 ratio and sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of present embodiment.
Single thread 2 refuse water treatment be carry out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, behind the color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant Olephobol CO (Huntsman company) of 6g/l, handled 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 ℃, bath raio 1: 8.The water-proof yarn of handling is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
Weave: adopt and exempt from sizing technique production, fabric construction is 5 piece 3 and flies through face satin weave structure.
Back arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → shrinking processes.The pre-setting temperature is 170 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.The NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l is adopted in typing.
Embodiment five
The fabric warp thread adopts the 60s single thread, and weft yarn adopts the 80s/2 yarn.3/1 twill multi-arm structure at the bottom of the employing plain weave.
The preparation of warp thread: kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
Wherein kiering, bleaching, dye, soap, fixation carries out according to normal process, adding concentration after fixation is finished is in the hydrophilic consistent lubricant Magnasoft of 4g/l HWS (GE company) aqueous solution, handles bath raio 1: 10 30 minutes for 40 ℃.Yarns treated is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
The preparation of weft yarn:
80s cotton yarn (single thread 1) kiering → bleach → dye → soap, the hydrophilic consistent lubricant of fixation → mistake → oven dry
80s cotton yarn (single thread 2) kiering → bleach → dye → soap, fixation → mistake are refused water consistent lubricant → oven dry
Above-mentioned single thread 1 and single thread 2 are plied to 80/2 yarn according to 1/1 ratio and sth. made by twisting.
The hydrophilic treatment of single thread 1 is identical with the preparation of the warp thread of present embodiment.
Single thread 2 refuse water treatment be carry out kiering, bleaching according to common process, dye, soap, behind the color fixing process, adding concentration is in the aqueous solution of refusing water consistent lubricant NT-X100 (Nanotex company) of 6g/l, handled 30 minutes, treatment temperature is 60 ℃, bath raio 1: 10.The water-proof yarn of handling is through hf drying, and bake out temperature is 100 ℃.
Weave: be made into 3/1 twill multi-arm structure at the bottom of the plain weave according to conventional starching → warping → weaving process.
Back arrangement: carry out according to grey cloth pre-setting → singe → destarch → mercerising → Liquid Ammonia Treatment → typing → shrinking processes.The pre-setting temperature is 170 ℃, speed of a motor vehicle 80m/min.Singe, washing, mercerising, Liquid Ammonia Treatment carry out according to common process.The NT-H550 (Nanotex company) of 50g/l is adopted in typing.
Test case: fabric is done Evaluation on effect soon
Prepared different fabric 1～5:
Fabric 1: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn all adopts water-proof yarn;
Fabric 2: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 4: 1;
Fabric 3: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 2: 1;
Fabric 4: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, and wherein the ratio of the water-proof yarn of weft yarn and hydrophilic yarn is 1: 1;
Fabric 5: warp thread all adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn all adopts refuses water single thread and the hydrophilic single thread yarn behind twisted thigh also.
Fig. 1 has shown respectively that with Fig. 2 sweat is in the double-edged spread condition of different fabrics.Wherein Fig. 1 is a fabric backing, i.e. the one side of fabric and contact skin; Fig. 2 is the front of fabric, i.e. the one side that contacts with external environment of fabric.The institutional framework of five kinds of fabrics 1～5 all adopts 2/1 twill left to right of 120x90.All adopt 80/2 purified cotton yarns through weft yarn, and through the hydrophilic of weft yarn with to refuse water treatment identical with embodiment 1.
As can be seen for fabric 1～4, human body is when perspiring from Fig. 1 and 2, and sweat is at first absorbed by the hydrophilic yarn of fabric backing and along the hydrophilic yarn diffusion, sweat is transferred to fabric face by the intertwined point through weft yarn simultaneously.Change color can take place in hydrophilic yarn after absorbing sweat, and water-proof yarn is not owing to absorbing sweat, and color can not change.Thereby as shown in the figure pattern can appear at the reverse side of fabric, and not attractive in appearance when wearing.The color of fabric 5 then shows very even.
Table 1 is depicted as above-mentioned different fabric 1-5 according to AATCC-79 and M﹠amp; The result of S P134 method of testing test.
Table 1
From the data of table 1 as can be seen, fabric 5 of the present invention obviously is better than fabric 1-4 aspect absorption speed, and at 30 minutes performance is preferably arranged also aspect the evaporation rate.
Claims (8)
1. one kind has the two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function, it is characterized in that, the tow sides possess hydrophilic property and the hydrophobic difference of described fabric, described fabric backing mainly are arranged with by refusing the twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or by hydrophilic single thread with refuse the twisted and plied multistrand yarn that obtains of water single thread; Described fabric face mainly is arranged with hydrophilic yarn.
2. a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 1, wherein said fabric backing are by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; Described fabric face is a hydrophilic yarn.
3. a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, the weft yarn of described fabric is by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn; The warp thread of described fabric is a hydrophilic yarn.
4. according to claim 1-3 any described a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, a unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function, wherein, the number of the front riser of described fabric is greater than the number of latitude floating-point.
5. according to claim 1-4 any described a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, a unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function, wherein, described organizational structure of fabrics is a twill structure, satin weave structure or multi-arm structure.
6. a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, unidirectional woven of leading sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 5, wherein, described twill structure adopts 4/4 twill structure, 4/1 twill structure, 3/1 twill structure, 2/1 twill structure, 3/1 herringbone biassed fabric or 2/1 herringbone biassed fabric; Described satin weave structure adopts and flies through face satin weave structure or 5 piece 2 for 5 piece 3 and fly through face satin weave structure; Described multi-arm structure adopts with the plain weave to be the twill multi-arm structure at the end or to be the structure of the satin weave multi-arm at the end with the twill.
7. one kind has the two-sided opposite sex, the unidirectional production method of leading the woven of sweat, quick-drying function, and this method comprises with hydrophilic yarn and by hydrophilic single thread with refuse the twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread or multistrand yarn carries out look and knits woven operation.
8. a kind of the have two-sided opposite sex, the unidirectional production method of leading the woven of sweat, quick-drying function according to claim 7, it is characterized in that, knit in the woven operation at described look, warp thread adopts hydrophilic yarn, and weft yarn adopts by refusing twisted and plied double strand yarn that obtains of water single thread and hydrophilic single thread or multistrand yarn.
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