CN101267937A - 芯吸织物及其制成的衣物 - Google Patents

芯吸织物及其制成的衣物 Download PDF

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CN101267937A
CN101267937A CNA2006800340558A CN200680034055A CN101267937A CN 101267937 A CN101267937 A CN 101267937A CN A2006800340558 A CNA2006800340558 A CN A2006800340558A CN 200680034055 A CN200680034055 A CN 200680034055A CN 101267937 A CN101267937 A CN 101267937A
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fabric
water absorbing
clothing
fiber
fibre
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T·R·博罗
H·菲尔格
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Lenzing AG
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种具有基本上完全由本质为疏水性的纤维例如聚酯或聚丙烯组成一侧和由疏水性纤维例如聚酯或聚丙烯和亲水性纤维具体是纤维素纤维例如棉、绿塞尔和粘胶人造丝的混合物组成另一侧的吸水织物。可以由这类吸湿织物例如通过整体衣物针织方法来制备衣物，由纤维素混合物组成的那侧作为所述衣物的外侧。

Description

芯吸织物及其制成的衣物
发明领域
本发明涉及芯吸织物和具体涉及含有绿塞尔(lyocell)和/或其它纤维素纤维的的芯吸织物。还涉及此类芯吸织物制成的衣物。
人们对技术性或活性织物的需求相当大，尤其是当用于运动服或其它应用时，需要能够快速和舒适地将水分从织物的一侧运输到另一侧，然后遍布于大的表面积而使蒸发带来的冷却作用最大化。然后，这种织物与常规织物相比，还可以更快干燥。
这些技术性织物不仅需要具有出众的芯吸能力，还优选需要使用舒适。理想中，当将这类织物制成衣物后，所述衣物的里层要比外层更干燥。还优选它们不能重到会使人在使用时感觉不舒服。
背景技术
已知现有技术的一种类型中，所述织物由两层聚酯制成，内层完全由疏水性聚酯组成，外层由经处理的亲水性聚酯组成。像化学处理那样对聚酯运用这些亲水性处理后，人们不幸地发现，经清洗，这些织物会失去它们的亲水性处理，以及，它们的舒适性和技术性能都会降低。
疏水性材料可能是微吸湿性的，例如具有低于约25％的低保水性的聚酯和聚丙烯腈，或非吸湿性的，例如聚丙烯、聚氯乙烯或聚乙烯。
亲水性材料倾向为强吸湿性的，例如纤维素或羊毛。
公开的美国专利申请第2004/0058072号中提到用纱来制造织物，其中用到至少部分经过疏水处理的第一纤维素纤维纱，和吸水能力高于第一纱的第二纤维素纤维纱，通过针织或机织，将第一和第二纱制成织物，使其内表面的吸水能力低于外表面。
另外，这些加工类型包括对纤维进行化学处理使其能起到所希望的作用，这类化学处理不是永久性的，在使用中会被洗掉。
WO-A-98/24621公开了一种显然是用于要从穿戴者的身体吸收液体的尿布或其它卫生类产品的单元层状复合材料。所述复合材料包括充当液体获得层的第一层，它从穿戴者快速获得液体并通过过渡带将其转移到充当临时贮存介质的第二层。所述两层均包含纤维和粘合剂，使用中所述复合材料还具有不会渗漏或从外面吸收水分的最外层外表面。
US-A-5,433,987公开了一种具有改良吸水能力的射流喷网法织物，可以吸收身体的汗水和其它体液，收集或将它们驱散使穿戴者保持舒适和卫生。可以将所述织物用作多层或叠层结构的吸收层，但用于衣物时，不能作为背离穿戴者的最外层。
其它较不相关的已知现有技术文件是US-A-2003/0181118、US-A-5,787,503、US-A-5,735,145和US-A-5,297,296。
发明内容的公开
目前已经发现，有可能将纤维制成不需要化学处理才有效的技术性芯吸织物。
本发明提供了一种用于衣物的吸水织物，所述织物具有基本上完全由本质为疏水性材料的纤维组成的最外层以及由本质为疏水性材料的纤维和亲水性纤维尤其是纤维素纤维的混合物组成的另一最外层。
本发明还提供了一种用于衣物的吸水织物，所述织物具有基本上完全由本质为疏水性材料的纤维组成的最外层以及由本质为疏水性材料的纤维例如合成或塑料纤维和亲水性纤维例如纤维素纤维的混合物组成的另一最外层，籍此，一侧的织物相比另一侧的织物更具疏水性。
本质为疏水性的材料是一种吸水率或水保持率低于25％的材料，例如聚酯、聚酰胺或聚丙烯。
优选所述本质为疏水性的塑料材料是聚酯。一侧的本质为疏水性材料例如塑料材料的纤维，可以由与另一侧的本质为疏水性材料例如塑料材料的纤维相同的材料制成，或者是不同的材料。
优选，亲水性纤维尤其是纤维素和本质为疏水性材料例如塑料材料的纤维的混合物含有低于或不超过50％的亲水性材料尤其是纤维素。所述纤维素材料优选是绿塞尔，但还可以采用其它纤维素材料或绿塞尔纤维与一种或多种其它类型例如更少量的纤维素材料的混合物。典型和优选的绿塞尔和/或其它纤维素材料的含量为10-50％，优选20-40％，更优选为约30％。还可以将短纤维和/或连续长丝用于各层。
可以通过针织或机织或通过非织造结合技术例如针刺结合来生产所述织物。它们无需和通常不使用粘合剂(粘接剂)，因此它们具有不会硬化或变得没有弹性的优点。优选的制造所述织物的方法是通过针织方法，采用双面针织工艺来同时生产双层，通过连接线连接各层使它们紧密接触。
生产所述织物的另一种方法是通过针刺结合，其中，气流成网聚酯层或其它疏水性纤维层置于气流成网绿塞尔和/或其它纤维素纤维层上，将针从聚酯侧刺入并控制针钩，使得聚酯纤维进入下层的绿塞尔和/或其它纤维素纤维层而将所述两层针刺在一起，从而生产出一侧基本上全部是聚酯，而另一侧是聚酯和绿塞尔和/或其它纤维素材料的混合物的织物。
本发明还提供了由如上所述的织物制成的衣物，其中，穿戴衣物时朝向穿戴者的衣物一侧(内侧)包含基本上完全(100％)为疏水性的层，另一侧(外侧)包含纤维混合物，例如疏水性纤维和纤维素纤维。通过使远离穿戴者的一侧由纤维混合物组成，接触到衣物的水分可以快速散布到衣物表面，同时疏水性表面与穿戴者的皮肤接触，不会使汗液散开，因此穿戴者不会感到衣物湿粘。所述衣物在吸水织物的两个侧面上都没有衬层。可以通过整体衣物针织方法来生产所述衣物，籍此用单次针织操作使衣物成型为双面织物。
附图简要说明
现在参照以下附图来描述本发明的实施方式，其中
图1是本发明织物的示意性截面图，
图2是改良的称重法吸水性检测***(GATS)的示意性表示，
图3是吸水性对时间的坐标图，
图4是吸水率对绿塞尔/聚酯混合材料中绿塞尔百分数的坐标图，
图5是针刺***的示意图，和
图6是图5的椭圆形VI内部的放大图。
技术织物，具体是适于用作运动装的芯吸织物，必须进行许多加工处理，还必须能够良好地平衡美观和实用。例如，由100％聚酯织物制成的运动装能够快速地将水分从紧贴穿戴者皮肤的织物内侧芯吸到外侧。然而，100％聚酯织物使人感觉不舒服，事实上织物中无水分保留。具体说，所述织物只是将水从内侧运输到外侧，该被运输的水分不会向边上分散。因此，在水分的高产区域，例如脊柱的中心区和手臂底下，水会在织物内和织物上快速积聚，从而给人不舒服的感觉，意味着该织物只能慢慢变干。
有人建议制造双层的聚酯运动装，内层是100％疏水性的，即未处理的聚酯，外层织物由经处理后具有亲水性的处理聚酯制成。然而，这类处理通常作为后整理加工，而这些后整理加工在重复洗涤后会被洗掉。而且，这些织物仍然具有合成纤维织物的感觉或“手感”，以及具有100％聚酯织物的常规性能，即容易起球和堆积静电荷。
另一方面，100％纤维素织物具有不同类型的问题。这些纤维素制品的水或湿气吸收性是如此高，使得水无法分散，织物趋向于感觉湿、重和粘。
而且，纤维素纤维比聚酯纤维贵，因此，织物和由此制成的衣物的费用也更高。
如图1所示，本发明提供了一种特别适合于技术性应用例如运动装的吸水织物。所述织物具有双层结构，优选其中一层1几乎全部由本质为疏水性的塑料材料例如聚酯组成，其中另一层2由绿塞尔纤维和本质为疏水性的塑料材料纤维的混合物组成。可以将其它纤维素纤维例如棉、莫代尔(modal)或粘胶人造丝纤维代替或加入绿塞尔纤维中，然而考虑到手感和强度的组合，尤其是湿强，则优选绿塞尔。
这类织物可以生产穿着舒适并具有高吸水特性的衣物。
尤其发现了，如果层2包含由聚酯制成的本质为疏水性的塑料材料纤维和重量比为10-50％的绿塞尔的混合物，则可以生产出具有永久芯吸特性的织物，所述芯吸特性不会由于重复洗涤而降低。
为了保证能够理解本发明，以下提到了织物吸水性的背景知识，该知识证明了通过利用上述用于层2的含有重量比为10-50％的绿塞尔的聚酯混合物的织物可以获得特别益处。
一种检测织物吸水性的已知方法被称为称重法吸水性检测***(GATS)。该***发表于期刊“International Nonwoven Journal”，2002年冬季刊第11卷第4期，作者为Konopka、Pourdeyhimi和Kim，题名为“非织造织物的平面内液体分布：第I部分-实验观察(In-Plane Liquid Distribution of Nonwoven fabrics：Part I-Experimental Observations)”，具体是第23-25页。本质上，所述称重法吸水性检测利用了如图2示意性所示的装置，包括贮水器3，其通过U形管4与出水孔5相连。待检测织物圆盘6置于出水口5上，从而圆盘6的材料通过毛细作用经U形管4从贮水器吸收水分。然而，只有能够吸水的织物才会“吸取”液体。
图3中所示是吸水性曲线图，其纵轴为每克织物的吸水克数，横轴为以秒计的时间。基本上，所述织物在曲线图线条第一部分7所示的吸水阶段吸水，直到曲线图线条第二部分8所示的稳定阶段为止。斜线7越陡，织物的吸水率越高，因此织物可以更快更好地吸水。稳定阶段线8的高度值表示织物吸水的总能力。进行一系列试验来确定以每克织物的每秒吸水克数(g/gs)表示的织物芯吸率。通过不断增加绿塞尔的量，采用从未处理聚酯纤维的100％聚酯织物到100％绿塞尔织物的各种聚酯/绿塞尔织物来进行试验。这些试验的结果如表1所示。
表1
  绿塞尔/聚酯混合物中的绿塞尔％   芯吸率(g/gs)
  0   0
  10   0.06
  20   0.16
  30   0.267
  40   0.4
  50   0.444
  100   0.444
通过这些试验结果，将各种织物的吸水率与对应的绿塞尔比例进行绘图。得到如图4所示的曲线图，其中纵轴可以测得吸水率(AR)，横轴可以测得聚酯/绿塞尔织物混合物中的绿塞尔的比例。
从图上可见，吸水率起初随着加入织物的绿塞尔的量的增加而增加，直到达到一最大值，约50％。超过50％后，吸水率不再增加。
无损于本发明，目前认为这种情况的原因是，当只有小比例的纤维是纤维素(例如绿塞尔)时，纤维素纤维不可能组成连续通道使水通过。然而，当存在足够的纤维素纤维时，水可以沿纤维素纤维的连续通道穿过织物。一旦各纤维素纤维已经与许多邻近的纤维素纤维相接触，此时纤维素纤维比例的增加则不再使芯吸率有任何的增加。
该意外发现促成了本发明，其中织物的层2包含绿塞尔(和/或其它纤维素)和聚酯(和/或其它合成物)的混合物。已经明确地发现，层2为聚酯和绿塞尔的混合物，而不是100％绿塞尔时，从聚酯层芯吸过来的水会散布到整个层2，而不像层2为100％绿塞尔的情况那样在一个地方积聚。
通过将水芯吸出层1，层2中的绿塞尔增强了层1的蒸发，有助于防止所述织物制成的衣物在使用中令人感觉不舒服。通过观察发现水在本发明优选层2中会往四边移动，其速率约为每10秒7.5厘米。这意味着在不到1分钟的时间内，水就几乎可以移动半米，换句话说，基本上横跨穿着由这类织物制成的衬衣的人的整个身体。这意味着，在根据本发明的织物制成的衣物中，高排汗区域中例如脊柱周围和手臂底下产生的汗水可以在层2中向四周芯吸而增强由所述织物制成的运动装的穿着舒适性。而且，通过这种横向芯吸增加了含有大量水分的表面区域，从而总体上增强了衣物的蒸发作用。因为聚酯纤维的重量低于绿塞尔，所述织物总体上能够保持低重量，此外，还增强了穿戴者的舒适度。
应该认识到，有许多方法可以制备所述双层结构，特别是可以将层1和2机织在一起或采用如US-A-5,209,084所述的双面针织加工，使用例如Edouard Dubied和Cie SA于1967年在瑞士出版的《针织手册(Dubied Knitting Manual)》一书中所描述的针织机进行针织。
用这种方法，可以同时制备和同时连接层1和2，其中层1只采用聚酯纱，层2采用聚酯/混合纱。机织和针织的织物制成衣物例如衬衣和罩衫后具有弹性，易于穿着。
制造所述织物的另一种方式是将两种没有使用化学粘合剂或粘接剂的非织造织物进行针刺结合。如图5和6所示，将气流成网聚酯短纤维或气流成网聚酯连续长丝的第一织物10置于第二层12上。层12是由绿塞尔和聚酯的混合物制成的气流成网纤维卷或垫。然后用具有向下倒钩如倒钩15的针12将所述两层针刺在一起。这样将上层10的纤维推入下层12中，如图6更清晰地所示。因为倒钩15向下，针趋向于只将层10向下推，而不太会将层12向上拉。因此，这样就形成了一种包含由聚酯组成的上层10以及由绿塞尔和聚酯纤维的混合物结合另外的从层10推下来的聚酯纤维所组成的下层12的粘合结构。图6中所示的将层10推入层12的指16能使一些聚酯正好穿过层12达到层12的底部。
在该方法的改良中，层12可以全部由非针刺结合条件下的绿塞尔纤维组成。这样就得到了如图6所示的绿塞尔和聚酯的混合物，其结合稍不如用聚酯纱和绿塞尔纤维开始制备的混合物层12那么紧密。不使用粘合剂可以使织物尽可能保持柔韧性。
显然，如果一开始，层12是聚酯和绿塞尔的混合物时，层12中的最初绿塞尔含量会比针刺结合后层中的绿塞尔含量高，基于层12所需的最终绿塞尔含量，应估计一个近似的修正值。这些针刺结合织物即使不含粘合剂也不如机织或针织织物那么有柔韧性。
本发明的另一个优点是可以采用原本用于形成所述双层的针织加工通过已知的整体衣物针织工艺在单次操作中针织一完整衣物，从而可以由聚酯或其它疏水性内层和包含聚酯和纤维素纤维(通常是绿塞尔)的混合物的外层来制备所述衣物。
尽管已经描述了关于绿塞尔和聚酯的本发明特定实施例，还可以采用其它吸湿性纤维和织物例如其它纤维素纤维，包括粘胶、莫代尔和棉，或者，甚至羊毛。
所述疏水性材料包括那些为非吸湿性或弱吸湿性的材料。

Claims (19)

1.一种用于衣物的吸水织物，所述织物具有包含基本上全部是本质疏水性的纤维的最外层、和包含疏水性纤维和亲水性纤维的混合物的另一最外层。
2.如权利要求1所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述一侧织物比所述另一侧织物更具疏水性。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述织物的一侧通过针织或机织方法制成，所述织物的另一侧通过针织或机织方法制成。
4.如权利要求3所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，两侧通过相同方法制成。
5.如权利要求3所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，一侧通过与另一侧不同的方法制成。
6.如权利要求3或4所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述一侧和另一侧的形成和结合同时进行。
7.如权利要求3-5中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，先分别形成所述一侧和另一侧，然后再结合形成织物。
8.如权利要求1-7中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述织物具有基本上完全由本质为疏水性合成或塑料材料的纤维组成的最外层和由本质为疏水性合成或塑料材料的纤维和亲水性纤维的混合物组成的另一最外层。
9.如权利要求1-8中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述亲水性纤维是纤维素纤维。
10.如权利要求9所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述纤维素纤维选自棉、绿塞尔和粘胶人造丝。
11.如权利要求1-10中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述本质为疏水性的材料选自聚酯和聚丙烯。
12.如权利要求1-11中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，一侧的所述本质为疏水性材料的纤维与另一侧的本质为疏水性的材料由不同的材料所形成。
13.如权利要求1-11中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，一侧的所述本质为疏水性材料的纤维与另一侧的本质为疏水性的材料由相同的材料所形成。
14.如权利要求9或10或从属于权利要求9或10的权利要求11-13中任一项所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，由纤维混合物形成的层含有不多于50％的纤维素纤维和不少于50％的本质为疏水性塑料材料的纤维。
15.如权利要求14所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，由纤维混合物形成的层含有10-50％、优选20-40％和更优选约为30％的纤维素纤维。
16.如权利要求14或15所述的吸水织物，其特征在于，所述纤维素纤维是绿塞尔纤维。
17.如权利要求1-16中任一项所述的吸水织物制成的衣物，其特征在于，所述含有纤维混合物的那侧是衣物的外侧。
18.如权利要求17所述的衣物，其特征在于，所述衣物是一种针织衣物，通过整体衣物针织方法进行针织。
19.如权利要求18所述的衣物，其特征在于，所述衣物是衬衣或罩衫。
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ES2364156T3 (es) 2011-08-25
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