WO2024134242A1 - Émulsion huile dans l'eau - Google Patents

Émulsion huile dans l'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024134242A1
WO2024134242A1 PCT/IB2022/000739 IB2022000739W WO2024134242A1 WO 2024134242 A1 WO2024134242 A1 WO 2024134242A1 IB 2022000739 W IB2022000739 W IB 2022000739W WO 2024134242 A1 WO2024134242 A1 WO 2024134242A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
mass
oil
water emulsion
fatty acid
emulsion according
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2022/000739
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Yuri Okutani
Mai OZAWA
Original Assignee
L V M H Recherche
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L V M H Recherche filed Critical L V M H Recherche
Publication of WO2024134242A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024134242A1/fr

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  • the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • polyglycerol fatty acid esters readily form thick films on skin surfaces and therefore tend to produce greasiness and stickiness when used as cosmetics. Because such films create a tightened sensation on the skin, consumers may find it uncomfortable.
  • One effective means for reducing such discomfort is to lower the content of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in the cosmetic.
  • a low surfactant content tends to result in an unstable emulsified state.
  • the Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication JP 2014073991 discloses an oil-in-water emulsion that uses a polyglycerol fatty acid ester as the surfactant and further contains a water-soluble polymer such as carboxyvinyl polymer or alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (ex: Carbopol and Pemulen TR-1) as a thickening agent.
  • a polyglycerol fatty acid ester as the surfactant and further contains a water-soluble polymer such as carboxyvinyl polymer or alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (ex: Carbopol and Pemulen TR-1) as a thickening agent.
  • one aspect of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising (1) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, (2) an (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer, (3) glyceryl glucoside and (4) glycogen.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, polyglyceryl- 10 distearate and a mixture thereof, preferably apricot kernel oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, polyglyceryl- 10 distearate and a mixture thereof.
  • the content of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester ranges from 0,1 to 10 mass %, preferably from 0, 4 to 5 mass%, preferably from 1.5 to 5 mass% based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the content of the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer ranges from 0.01 to 3 mass% based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the content of the glyceryl glucoside ranges from 0.01 to 10 mass% based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the content of the glycogen ranges from 0.005 to 2 mass% based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Another aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, comprising the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the oil- in-water emulsion of the present invention.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion of the invention comprises a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, an (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer, glyceryl glucoside and glycogen.
  • the "VP” in “(ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer” stands for "vinylpyrrolidone”.
  • a polyglycerol fatty acid ester is an ester compound of a fatty acid and polyglycerin obtained by polymerization of glycerin.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the oil-in-water emulsion of the invention functions as a surfactant.
  • Preferred polyglycerol fatty acid esters are polyglyceryl distearates such as polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl- 10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion of the invention comprises a polyglyceryl- 10 distearate.
  • An example of a suitable commercial product to be used is SUNSOFT Q- 182S-C (polyglyceryl- 10 distearate, Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.).
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester used may be a single type or a combination of two or more types.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, polyglyceryl- 10 distearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably apricot kernel oil polyglyceryl-6 esters, polyglyceryl- 10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer is a copolymer of an ammonium salt of acryloyldimethyltaurine and vinylpyrrolidone, and it functions as a thickening agent.
  • the emulsified stability is markedly superior to using other thickening agents.
  • the Applicant demonstrated that the use of such ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer provides better stability than carboxyvinyl polymer or alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol, Pemulen-TRl).
  • a suitable example of such a commercial copolymer product is ARISTOFLEX AVC (Clariant International Ltd.).
  • the content of the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer is preferably 0.01 mass% or greater, 0.05 mass% or greater or 0.1 mass% or greater, and preferably 3 mass% or lower, 1 mass% or lower, 0.5 mass% or lower or 0.25 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the glyceryl glucoside is not particularly restricted so long as it can be used in cosmetics, and an a-type, [3-type or mixture thereof may be used.
  • a preferred commercial glyceryl glucoside product is aGG-L (by JTS).
  • the glyceryl glucoside content ranges from 0.01 to 10 mass%, 0.01 to 5 mass%, 0.01 to 2 mass%, 0.1 to 10 mass%, 0.1 to 5 mass%, 0.1 to 2 mass%, 0.5 to 10 mass%, 0.5 to 5 mass% or 0.5 to 2 mass%, based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the glycogen is also not particularly restricted so long as it can be used in cosmetics, and it may be vegetable glycogen (also named plant-derived glycogen or phytoglycogen) derived from com, barley, rice, potato or tapioca, or animal glycogen derived from shellfish such as scallops, abalone, oyster, mussel or pearl oyster, or cow or pig liver.
  • the glycogen is a plant-derived glycogen (phytoglycogen), preferably from com.
  • the average molecular weight of the glycogen may be 200,000 to 1,000,000, for example.
  • a preferred commercially available glycogen product is PhytoSpherixTM (Mirexus Inc.).
  • the glycogen content ranges from 0.005 to 2 mass%, 0.005 to 1 mass%, 0.005 to 0.5 mass%, 0.01 to 2 mass%, 0.01 to 1 mass%, 0.01 to 0.5 mass%, 0.05 to 2 mass%, 0.05 to 1 mass% or 0.05 to 0.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the oil-in- water emulsion.
  • the electrolyte content in the emulsion of the invention ranges from 1 mass% or greater, 5 mass% or greater or 8 mass% or greater and 20 mass% or lower, 15 mass% or lower or 12 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the electrolyte content in the emulsion of the invention ranges from 1 mass% to 20 mass%, in particular from 5 mass% to 15 mass%, preferably from 8 mass% to 12 mass% based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the oil-in- water emulsion may also contain, as appropriate, additives that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as thickening agents distinct from the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer, humectants distinct from glyceryl glucoside and glycogen, antioxidants, pH regulators, perfumes, antioxidants, UV screen agents, skin whiteners, pigments and coloring agents.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion of the invention also contains a (meth)acrylic polymer as a thickening agent in addition to the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer.
  • the total content of thickening agents (including the (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP) copolymer and the optional additional thickening agents) in the oil-in-water emulsion is preferably 0.05 mass% or greater, 0.1 mass% or greater or 0.2 mass% or greater, and preferably 5 mass% or lower, 3 mass% or lower or 1 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the oil-in-water emulsion.
  • a polyol may be a dihydric alcohol with two alcoholic hydroxyl groups or a trihydric alcohol with three alcoholic hydroxyl groups.
  • the number of carbon atoms of the polyol may be 3 to 5, for example.
  • Examples of polyols include glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and propanediol.
  • a single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types may be used in combination.
  • the water used may be distilled water, purified water, hot spring water, deep water, or plant-derived steam distilled water such as lavender water, rose water or orange flower water.
  • solvents that are soluble in water include monoalcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol.
  • the solvent that is soluble in water may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.
  • the numerical values in Tables 1 to 3 are all mass% values, with totals of 100 mass%.
  • the thickening agent-containing starting material (A) in the table was uniformly mixed at 80°C, dispersing the thickening agent in the water while dissolving the water-soluble components such as glycogen.
  • a sodium hydroxide water-soluble solution (starting material (B)) was added to the mixture as a pH regulator, obtaining an aqueous phase.
  • starting material (C) containing an oil agent and a surfactant was uniformly mixed to obtain an oil phase. After confirming uniformity of both the aqueous phase and oil phase, the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase and thoroughly mixed at 80°C to obtain an emulsion.
  • the emulsion was cooled to 40°C, and then the electrolyte-containing starting material (D), starting material (E) and starting material (F) were added and mixed in, after which the mixture was cooled to room temperature to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une émulsion huile dans l'eau contenant (1) un ester d'acide gras de polyglycérol, (2) un copolymère (ammonium acryloyldiméthyltaurate/VP), (3) du glycéryl glucoside et (4) du glycogène.
PCT/IB2022/000739 2022-12-20 Émulsion huile dans l'eau WO2024134242A1 (fr)

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2024134242A1 true WO2024134242A1 (fr) 2024-06-27

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