WO2024082999A1 - 稳态双层型化妆水及其制备方法 - Google Patents
稳态双层型化妆水及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024082999A1 WO2024082999A1 PCT/CN2023/123759 CN2023123759W WO2024082999A1 WO 2024082999 A1 WO2024082999 A1 WO 2024082999A1 CN 2023123759 W CN2023123759 W CN 2023123759W WO 2024082999 A1 WO2024082999 A1 WO 2024082999A1
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- double
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- lotion
- emulsifier
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- UKSFMDODPANKJI-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[methyl(octadecanoyl)amino]ethanesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CCS([O-])(=O)=O UKSFMDODPANKJI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/26—Optical properties
- A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
Definitions
- the invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a lotion with a double-layer appearance.
- the invention also relates to a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
- Toner is a necessary skin care product in our daily life. It is usually used after cleansing as the first step in the skin care process. Toner has multiple skin care benefits. It can help remove residual additives from cleansing products and perform secondary cleansing on the skin. It can also adjust and balance the pH value on the skin surface and restore the weak acidity of the skin. Toners mostly contain ingredients such as polyols, which can provide hydration and moisturizing effects to the skin, soften the skin's stratum corneum, and help promote the subsequent skin care products to be better absorbed by the skin.
- Ordinary lotions are usually single-layer water-based products with a uniform appearance. Most of them are transparent or translucent, with a light texture and strong fluidity. This type of lotion generally does not contain oily ingredients. After application, it can only meet short-term moisturizing needs and cannot maintain long-term moisturizing effects. Therefore, after the water skin care step, it is still necessary to use skin care products such as lotions and creams to meet the skin's longer-term moisturizing needs.
- the fast-stratified two-layer system also has high requirements for the filling process in production, requiring water and oil to be filled in steps, or requiring the use of specific stirring and filling equipment, which extends the production time.
- the other is a suspension-oil biphasic formulation, which is to suspend the oil droplets in the water phase by selecting a suitable stable suspension system, presenting an oil-water two-phase state with evenly distributed oil droplets.
- the stable suspension system should have good suspension ability, low viscosity and refreshing skin feeling, which is technically difficult.
- the two types of two-phase lotions mentioned above are a mixture of water and oil when applied, because the water and oil are separated and the oil is not emulsified, and the skin adhesion is poor.
- the double-layer lotion described in the present invention is prepared with inulin lauryl carbamate.
- the difference from the above two technologies is that after standing, the upper layer is the emulsion phase and the lower layer is the water phase. After shaking, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which is more skin-friendly when applied. After standing again, the layered appearance of emulsion on top and water on the bottom will be restored. It has a novel and high-value visual feature, which attracts the attention of consumers.
- the present invention unexpectedly found that when the oil phase/water phase is within a certain ratio range and the inulin lauryl carbamate/oil meets a certain ratio range, a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and lower water texture can be prepared using only a single inulin lauryl carbamate, without the need for additional compounding of other emulsifiers or stabilizers.
- This double-layer lotion can be stable for more than 2 months in an environment of 25°C to 48°C, that is, after standing for 3 minutes to 3 hours in an environment of 25°C to 48°C, it presents a double-layer appearance with an upper emulsion phase and a lower water phase, and after shaking it well, it becomes a milky white uniform liquid, and after standing again, the stratification process will be completed again after about 3 minutes to 3 hours, and the stratification state of upper emulsion and lower water will be presented again.
- the present invention also found that on the basis of inulin lauryl carbamate, only a small amount of non-ionic emulsifier containing PEG or ester or polyether structure is needed to help the formula achieve stability in a low temperature (0-10°C) environment, and no additional emulsifier or stabilizer is needed.
- the upper layer is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase.
- the double-layer appearance is achieved. It is a milky white uniform liquid. After being left to stand for about 3 minutes to 3 hours, the stratification process will be completed again, and the stratified state of milk on top and water on the bottom will be restored.
- the purpose of the present invention is to provide a double-layer lotion with the appearance of milk on top and water on the bottom.
- the double-layer lotion is a stable double-layer dosage form with a stable and controllable stratification time and a stable water content of the milk layer.
- the present invention also provides a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
- the present invention provides a stable double-layer lotion comprising:
- emulsifier 0.1-0.6 wt% of an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is inulin lauryl carbamate;
- the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil is 0.01-0.1;
- the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is the emulsion phase, and the lower layer is the water phase;
- the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion is 3 minutes to 3 hours.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention further comprises 0.1-0.5 wt% of an auxiliary emulsifier.
- the auxiliary emulsifier is selected from: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sucrose laurate, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether, PPG-25-laureth-25, coceth-7, polysorbate-20, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, sodium coceth sulfate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, sodium myristoyl glutamate or a combination thereof.
- the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a plant oil, liquid ester, synthetic oil, and silicone oil that is liquid at room temperature.
- the oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, and mineral oil.
- the humectant in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol selected from glycerin, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or a combination thereof.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention further comprises one or a combination of two or more water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
- the water content of the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 15-20% by weight.
- the present invention also provides a method for preparing a double-layer lotion, comprising the following steps:
- steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90° C.
- the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 3000-5000 rpm.
- FIG1 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 after being prepared and left to stand for 12 hours.
- FIG. 2 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 left to stand for 3 to 20 minutes.
- FIG3 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 left to stand for 30 minutes to 1.5 hours.
- FIG. 4 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 left to stand for 2 to 4 hours.
- FIG5 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 after being left to stand for 5 hours to 22-24 hours.
- FIG6 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 3 left to stand for 22-24 hours to 7 days.
- the present invention provides a double-layer lotion, which is prepared by inulin lauryl carbamate, and after standing still, the upper layer is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is a water phase, and after being shaken well, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which has better skin affinity when applied. Moreover, after standing again, the layered appearance of upper emulsion and lower water will be restored, which has novel and high-value visual characteristics, attracting consumers' attention.
- the double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has the advantages of moisturizing, lightness, easy absorption, and water-oil balance. Excellent skin feel, favored by consumers.
- the stable double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain various liquid oils and fats acceptable in the cosmetics field.
- oil means one or more hydrophobic compounds having a melting point below 30°C.
- Suitable examples of compounds that can be used for the oil component of the double-layer type lotion of the present invention include: vegetable oils, liquid esters (glycerides, triglycerides of fatty acids), synthetic oils and silicone oils.
- esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), pentaerythritol tetracaprylate and mineral oil.
- the oil contained in the double-layer type lotion of the present invention is selected from: dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane or any combination thereof.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-20% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-15% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-15% by weight of fat.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-10% by weight of oil. In other embodiments, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 10-12% by weight of oil.
- An “emulsifier” is an additive that stabilizes a mixture of two or more liquids that are generally immiscible.
- the present invention uses inulin lauryl carbamate as an emulsifier to prepare a double-layer type lotion.
- Inulin lauryl carbamate is a plant polymer emulsifier derived from inulin.
- Inulin is a sugar derived from chicory roots. It is a linear polysaccharide compound composed of fructose monomers.
- Inulin lauryl carbamate is a plant emulsifier obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the polysaccharide backbone of inulin.
- the two-layer lotion of the present invention does not contain other emulsifiers.
- inulin lauryl carbamate as an emulsifier can prepare a stable double-layer lotion.
- the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase. After being shaken, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which is more skin-friendly when applied.
- the double-layer lotion will restore the layered appearance of upper emulsion and lower water, which has novel and high-value visual characteristics.
- the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.6 wt % of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.2-0.6 wt % of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.3-0.5 wt % of an emulsifier.
- the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 0.01-0.1. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 0.02-0.08. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 0.03-0.05.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention can also use an auxiliary emulsifier.
- the auxiliary emulsifier is selected from: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sucrose laurate, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether, PPG-25-laureth-25, coceth-7, polysorbate-20, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, sodium coceth sulfate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, or any combination thereof.
- the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of a co-emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.4 wt % of a co-emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.2-0.4 wt % of a co-emulsifier.
- Humectants are a class of products that can increase or Cosmetic raw materials that retain moisture in the upper layer of the skin. This type of raw material has low volatility and can retain moisture, absorbing it on the surface of the skin. It is a type of skin conditioner.
- the humectant used in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol.
- the humectant can be selected from: glycerol, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or any combination thereof.
- the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 1-10% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-8% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-5% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-8% by weight of a moisturizer.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain other ingredients.
- the double-layer lotion of the present application may contain water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
- the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of ingredients with moisturizing, nourishing, soothing, acne removal, oil control, freckle removal and whitening, exfoliation, sun protection, firming, anti-wrinkle, and repair effects.
- the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol,
- the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.2 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
- the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of a bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate. 0.2-0.5% by weight of bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate.
- the present invention also provides a method for preparing a stable double-layer lotion.
- the double-layer lotion can be prepared according to the following method:
- the obtained double-layer lotion is left to stand for 3-24 hours to obtain the double-layer lotion after the first stratification, wherein the upper layer is a white emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase.
- the stratified lotion is shaken and then allowed to stand again.
- the stratification can be completed again after 3 minutes to 3 hours, presenting an appearance of an upper layer of the emulsion phase and a lower layer of the water phase.
- the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C. In a more preferred embodiment, the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 80-90°C.
- the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 2000-5000 rpm. In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 3000-5000 rpm. In a more preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 5000 rpm.
- step (c) the homogenization in step (c) is maintained for 10-20 minutes.
- deionized water, polyol, inulin lauryl carbamate and optional auxiliary emulsifier are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90°C as the first phase, and oil is mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90°C as the second phase.
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90°C, homogenized at 2000-5000 rpm, maintained for 10-20 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45°C, added with other ingredients, stirred uniformly, the preparation is completed, and allowed to stand for use.
- the core of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is to achieve a double-layer stable state, and its stable state is mainly manifested in the following four aspects:
- the advantage is that consumers can observe visible stratification in a short time of 3-5 minutes, which not only satisfies consumers' interest in product experience, but also satisfies consumers' convenience of use.
- the whole process from shaking to pouring on the hands basically takes about ten seconds to one minute, so 3-5 minutes is enough, and it also ensures that the product poured out after each shaking is uniform and consistent, and the upper and lower layers will not be inconsistent when pouring due to too fast stratification, which may cause differences in skin feel and efficacy.
- the emulsion phase gradually rises and the water phase layer gradually becomes higher.
- the water phase has a semi-permeable appearance, and the interface between the emulsion phase and the water phase gradually changes from blurred to clear.
- This process is the process of gradual separation of the emulsion phase and the water phase, and the initial stratification is basically completed.
- the emulsion phase and the water phase are still in the equilibrium process of phase separation, which is manifested by the decrease in the height of the emulsion phase and the water phase becoming more transparent. This process is the equilibrium stage of stratification.
- the height of the emulsion phase is basically close, and the transparency of the water phase is basically the same. This process is the completion stage of a stratification process.
- the process of standing still for 3 minutes to 3 hours is the visual stratification time that consumers can observe in actual use, that is, the stratification process can be completed once by standing still for more than 3 hours.
- this visualized layering time is not only controllable, but also very consistent with consumers' usage habits.
- consumers use the product every morning and evening, they can ensure that they can observe the change process of the steady-state double-layer lotion restoring its layers after shaking it well, and they can shake it again when they use it again; for a small number of consumers, if they need to use the product three times a day, morning, noon and evening, then the 3-hour split is enough.
- the layer duration can also meet the above requirements.
- the height of the emulsion phase decreased only slightly compared to that of standing for 3-8 hours; when the standing time was further extended, the height of the emulsion phase remained unchanged, indicating that after standing for 22-24 hours, the double-layer lotion reached a final stable state.
- the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion that reaches the final stable state is called "snow top” because it has the appearance of snow on the top of a mountain.
- the upper emulsion phase and the lower water phase will quickly merge into one, and after standing, they will quickly show the stratification characteristics.
- the entire visual dynamic stratification process is completed after 3 minutes to 3 hours.
- the milk layer and the water layer have a clear interface, and the volume ratio (height ratio) of the milk layer and the water layer is relatively fixed.
- the upper emulsion phase is separated, and the water content in the upper emulsion phase is measured by the water content analysis method (Karl Fischer method) to be 15-20%.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention has controllable visual stratification time and controllable stable state standing time, and is a stable double-layer lotion.
- the stable double-layer lotion of the present invention has a fixed ratio of emulsion and water layers, and the water content of the upper emulsion phase of the stable double-layer lotion is also relatively stable.
- the double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has excellent skin feel of moisturizing, being light and easy to absorb, and having a water-oil balance, and is favored by consumers.
- Example 1 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed evenly at 80° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and squalane are mixed evenly at 80° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 80° C., and homogenized at 5000 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for later use.
- Example 2 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate were mixed at 85°C.
- Mix evenly as the first phase mix dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane evenly at 85°C as the second phase, add the second phase into the first phase at 85°C, homogenize at 4500 rpm, keep for 18 minutes, and homogenize to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is applied for later use.
- Example 3 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 75° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and squalane are mixed uniformly at 75° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 75° C., and homogenized at 4000 rpm for 20 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for later use.
- Example 4 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and squalane are mixed uniformly at 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 90° C., and homogenized at 3500 rpm for 12 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for later use.
- Example 5 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 70° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and squalane are mixed uniformly at 70° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70° C., and homogenized at 5000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for later use.
- Example 6 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70 to 90° C., homogenized at 3500 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 7 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, butylene glycol and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70 to 90° C., and homogenized at 5000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for later use.
- Example 8 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- Example 9 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70 to 90° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 13 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is applied for standby use.
- Example 10 Preparation of double-layer lotion using a single emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, 1,3-propylene glycol and inulin lauryl carbamate are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70 to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70 to 90° C., homogenized at 3000 rpm, and maintained for 18 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 11 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are uniformly mixed at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature (25-30° C.), homogenized at 5000 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed for use.
- Example 12 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 30-50° C. as the first phase
- caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 30-50° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 30-50° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed for use.
- Example 13 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 70-80° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70-80° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70-80° C., homogenized at 2500 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 14 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 80-90° C., homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 15 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 50-70° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90° C., homogenized at 3000 rpm for 18 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is applied for use.
- Example 16 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed uniformly at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature (25-30° C.)
- homogenized at 5000 rpm for 12 minutes that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed for use.
- Example 17 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-20 Methyl glucose sesquistearate is mixed evenly at 30-50° C. as the first phase
- caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed evenly at 30-50° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 30-50° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is applied for use.
- Example 18 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed uniformly at 70-80° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 70-80° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70-80° C., homogenized at 2500 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 19 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 80-90° C., homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 20 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed uniformly at 50-70° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90° C., and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 18 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is applied for use.
- Example 21 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and polysorbate-20 are mixed uniformly at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at room temperature (25-30° C.) as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature (25-30° C.), homogenized at 5000 rpm, maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 22 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and polysorbate-20 are mixed uniformly at 30-50° C. as the first phase
- caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at 30-50° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 30-50° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- Example 23 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerol, inulin lauryl carbamate and polysorbate were added.
- Ester-20 is mixed evenly at 70-80°C as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed evenly at 70-80°C as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 70-80°C, homogenized at 2500 rpm, and maintained for 20 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is applied for use.
- Example 24 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and polysorbate-20 are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 80-90° C., homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for use.
- Example 25 Preparation of double-layer lotion by compounding emulsifier
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate and polysorbate-20 are mixed uniformly at 50-70° C. as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and polydimethylsiloxane are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90° C. as the second phase
- the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90° C., homogenized at 3000 rpm for 18 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
- deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate were mixed evenly at room temperature (25-30°C) as the first phase
- dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane were mixed evenly at room temperature (25-30°C) as the second phase
- the second phase was added to the first phase at room temperature (25-30°C), homogenized at 5000 rpm, maintained for 10 minutes, stirred evenly, and the preparation was completed, and allowed to stand until a double-layer lotion was formed for use.
- the upper layer was the emulsion phase
- the lower layer was the water phase.
- a transparent oil layer was observed to precipitate on the surface of the upper emulsion, indicating that the emulsion layer was unstable.
- Comparative Example 1 show that when inulin lauryl carbamate is used as a single emulsifier, the emulsification temperature is one of the key factors that determine whether a double-layer lotion can be successfully prepared. When the temperature is too low, even if the homogenization is performed for a sufficient period of time under high shear strong homogenization conditions, a stable and ideal double-layer lotion cannot be obtained.
- Deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate were mixed evenly at 80-85°C as the first phase, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane were mixed evenly at 80-85°C as the second phase, the second phase was added to the first phase at 80-85°C, homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 5 minutes, the preparation was completed, and left to stand until a double-layer lotion was formed for use.
- the upper layer was the emulsion phase
- the lower layer was the water phase. Overnight, a small amount of transparent oil layer was still observed on the surface of the upper emulsion, indicating that the emulsion layer was unstable.
- Comparative Example 2 show that when inulin lauryl carbamate is used as a single emulsifier, homogenization strength is also another key factor that determines whether a double-layer lotion can be successfully prepared. When the homogenization strength is low, even if the emulsification temperature is high enough, a stable and ideal double-layer lotion cannot be obtained.
- Deionized water, glycerin, inulin lauryl carbamate, and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate were mixed uniformly at 80-85°C as the first phase, and oil was mixed uniformly at 80-85°C as the second phase.
- the second phase was added to the first phase at 80-85°C, and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to prepare After completion, let it stand until the double-layer lotion is ready for use. After the lotion is separated overnight, it is observed that the transparency of the water phase is low, there is precipitation at the bottom, and the interface between the water phase and the upper emulsion is not clear, indicating that the double-layer lotion is not successfully prepared.
- a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and lower water texture can be prepared using only a single emulsifier, inulin lauryl carbamate, without the need for additional compounding of other emulsifiers or stabilizers.
- This double-layer lotion can be stable in an environment of 25°C to 48°C, that is, after standing in an environment of 25°C to 48°C, it presents a double-layer appearance with an upper emulsion phase and a lower water phase. After shaking, it becomes a milky white uniform liquid. After standing again, the stratification process will be completed again after about 3 minutes to 3 hours, and the stratification state of upper emulsion and lower water will be presented again.
- V the volume of liquid sample added, ml
- the arithmetic mean of the two parallel measurement results shall be taken as the measurement result.
- the absolute difference between the two parallel tests shall not be greater than 10% of the arithmetic mean.
- Example 2 and 8 use inulin lauryl carbamate as a single emulsifier, and the oil composition of Example 8 contains conventional synthetic oils and polydimethylsiloxane;
- Example 14 is a composite system of inulin lauryl carbamate and auxiliary emulsifier PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil;
- Example 17 is a composite system of inulin lauryl carbamate and auxiliary emulsifier PEG-20 methyl glucosyl ester.
- Example 23 is a compound system of inulin lauryl carbamate and auxiliary emulsifier polysorbate-20.
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention has a steady-state water content of the milk layer, and the water content of the milk layer is stably controllable at 15-20%.
- the double-layer lotion obtained in Example 3 was put into a 200 ml colorless transparent glass bottle, shaken up and down 10 times to fully mix, and then allowed to stand. The stratification state was observed and photographed at different time points, as shown in Figures 2 to 6.
- the process of restoring the layers of the double-layer lotion after shaking is a dynamic process.
- the visible stratification phenomenon can be observed after standing for 3-5 minutes, which not only satisfies the fun of the consumer experience, but also satisfies the convenience of the consumer. That is, when the consumer shakes the lotion well to apply it on the face, the whole process is very simple.
- the process takes about a dozen seconds to 1 minute, so 3-5 minutes is fully sufficient, and 3-5 minutes also ensures that the product poured out after each shaking is uniform and consistent; from 3 minutes to 3 hours of standing is the visual stratification time that consumers can observe during the use of the product; 3 hours of standing can basically complete a complete visual stratification process, and this duration is controllable and in line with consumer usage habits, that is, when consumers use the product in the morning and evening every day, they can observe the steady-state double-layer lotion restoring the stratification process after shaking, and can shake it again when used again; for a small number of consumers, if they need to use the product three times a day, morning, noon and evening, then a stratification time of 3 hours can also meet the above requirements.
- the process of standing for 3 minutes to standing for 22-24 hours is the stratification state of the double-layer lotion described in the present invention, wherein standing for 3 minutes to standing for 3 hours can be used as the visualized stratification time of the double-layer lotion described in the present invention.
- Test Example 5 Layered Observation Test Simulating Consumer Usage Scenario
- Test sample Double-layer lotion sample of Example 3
- Evaluation method 10 internal consumers are randomly selected to shake the test samples according to their personal usage habits and shaking intensity, and then let them stand. The starting time of standing is recorded. After the consumers recognize that the layers have been separated, the ending time is recorded again, and the time difference is calculated to evaluate the time required for the double-layer lotion to complete the separation again after standing. During the entire observation process, the samples are required to remain in a static state.
- Example 14 On the basis of Example 14, other ingredients such as active ingredient dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, bifida yeast fermentation product lysate, flavor and preservative phenoxyethanol were added as samples for consumer use test evaluation.
- weight percentage 82.95 parts by weight of deionized water, 5 parts by weight of glycerin, 0.3 parts by weight of inulin lauryl carbamate and 0.4 parts by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the first phase, 4 parts by weight of dicaprylyl carbonate, 3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 3 parts by weight of squalane are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C.
- the second phase is added to the first phase at 80-90° C., homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45° C., 0.2 parts by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, 0.5 parts by weight of bifid yeast fermentation product lysate, 0.15 parts by weight of bisabolol, 0.1 parts by weight of essence and 0.4 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol are added, homogenized at 2000 rpm, maintained for 5 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained; after the preparation is completed, it is allowed to stand until a double-layer lotion is used.
- the oil-soluble bisabolol and essence are emulsified in the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion, while the water-soluble dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and bifid yeast fermentation product lysate are in the lower water phase of the double-layer lotion; since the preservative phenoxyethanol has a certain distribution coefficient in the oil-water phase, part of it is in the emulsion phase and part in the water phase.
- the double-layer lotion is shaken again, it will become a uniform milky white liquid again. These ingredients are evenly mixed in the milky white lotion.
- consumers use the double-layer lotion it can help soothe and repair the skin, giving them a pleasant experience.
- Test population Female consumers aged 20 to 30
- L'Oreal Essence Water Toner B-L'Oreal Revitalizing Hyaluronic Acid Double Brightening Essence Water
- the double-layer lotion of the present invention is superior to the commercially available L'Oreal Revitalizing Hyaluronic Acid Water-filling Double Brightening Essence Water ("L'Oreal Essence Water”) in terms of the degree of liking the application feeling, the overall degree of liking the skin feeling, the degree of absorption, the skin comfort, the degree of liking the lightness and burden-free feeling on the skin, the degree of liking the residual feeling on the skin, the degree of liking the moisturizing feeling on the skin, the softness of the skin, and the skin moisturizing and hydrating effect. It can be seen that the double-layer lotion of the present invention has a better skin feel than the commercially available L'Oreal Essence Water and is more popular with consumers.
- the ingredients of the commercially available L'Oreal Essence Water include: water, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, safflower seed oil, 1,2-hexanediol, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, tromethamine, adenosine, capryloyl salicylic acid, sodium hyaluronate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium cocoether sulfate, tocopherol (vitamin E), caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, and fragrance.
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种稳态双层型化妆水,其包含:5-20重量%的油脂;0.1-0.6重量%的乳化剂,所述乳化剂是菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯;1-10重量%的保湿剂;和水;其中,所述乳化剂与所述油脂的重量比为0.01-0.1其中,所述双层型化妆水的上层是乳液相,下层是水相;其中,所述双层型化妆水的可视化分层时长为3分钟至3小时。本发明还涉及这种稳态双层型化妆水的制备方法。
Description
本发明涉及化妆品领域,具体涉及一种呈现双层外观特点的化妆水,本发明还涉及这种双层化妆水的制备方法。
化妆水是我们日常生活中必备的护肤品,通常在洁面之后使用,作为护肤流程中的第一步。化妆水具有多重的护肤功效,可以帮助清除洁面产品残留的添加剂,对肌肤进行二次清洁;也可以调节和平衡皮肤表面的pH值,恢复皮肤的弱酸性。化妆水大多都含有多元醇等成分,可以给皮肤提供补水保湿的功效,同时软化皮肤角质层,帮助促进后续护肤品更好地被肌肤吸收。
普通的化妆水通常是单层型的水剂产品,外观均匀一致,多数呈现透明或半透明的状态,质地轻薄,流动性强。这类化妆水一般不含有油脂类成分,涂抹后仅能满足短期的保湿,并不能维持长久的滋润效果,因此在水的护肤步骤之后仍然需要使用乳液和面霜等护肤品,满足肌肤更长效的滋润需求。
为增强化妆水的滋润效果,市场上也有出现了一些含有油脂的水油双相剂型的化妆水,一般常见的会有这几种不同的形式。一种是上油下水分层型,如中国专利《一种水油双层化妆水及其制备方法》(专利号202011562832.4),添加了40-50%的油脂得到上层油相下层水相的水油双层化妆水,提高了保湿和滋润力。这种化妆水由于水油不相容的特点很快就会分层,需要先充分摇匀之后再快速倒出使用,但是消费者很难控制好倒出时的水油比例,密度差的原理油容易漂在上层,所以往往倒出的油相偏多,导致肤感偏油腻。另外,快速分层的双层体系对生产中灌装过程的要求也较高,需要水油分步灌装,或者需要借助特定的搅拌灌装设备,延长了生产工时。另一种是悬油双相剂型,即通过选择一种合适的稳定悬浮体系,将油滴悬浮在水相中,呈现油滴均匀分布的油水两相状态。但是这种剂型对悬浮体系的要求比较高,需要寻求到一种合适
的稳定悬浮体系,既能满足具有较好的悬浮能力,又要保持低粘的质地和清爽的肤感,技术难度较高。上述两种双相剂型的化妆水,由于水油是两相分离的状态,油脂并没有被乳化,所以涂抹时是水油的混合液,贴肤性较差。
相反,本发明所述的双层化妆水用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯制备,与上述两种技术的不同之处在于,静置后上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后则成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,涂抹时亲肤性更好;当再次静置后会重新恢复上乳下水的分层外观,具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点,吸引了消费者的眼球。
目前也有一些类似的利用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯的技术实现上乳下水的分层剂型,如《一种双层保湿精华液及其制备方法》(中国专利号202010710079.2),利用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯0.1%~0.5%复配PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯1%~3%乳化,油脂为辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯5%~8%,制备得到一种双层保湿精华液,但是其乳化剂的添加量比较大,且乳化剂/油脂的相对比例也较高,可能会有一定的皮肤刺激性风险,配方成本也比较高。再如,《一种双层乳液》(中国专利号201711399009.4),利用0.1-1.0%菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯复配0.01-0.2%的稳定剂(羟丙基甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素等)和0.1-2.5%乳化剂(蔗糖月桂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-20等),通过控制菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯/油脂=1∶50~150,得到一种保湿双层乳液,也同样存在乳化剂用量较大的问题,而且还需要额外添加纤维素等稳定剂帮助协同稳定。
本发明意外地发现,当满足油相/水相在一定的比例范围,且菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯/油脂满足一定的比例范围的条件下,仅用单一的菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯就可以制备得到上乳下水质地的双层化妆水,而不需要额外复配其他乳化剂或者稳定剂。这种双层化妆水在25℃至48℃的环境下可以实现2个月以上稳定,即在25℃至48℃的环境下静置3分钟至3小时后,呈现上层为乳液相下层为水相的双层外观,摇匀后成为乳白色的均匀液体,再次静置,大约经过3分钟至3小时会再次完成分层的过程,重新呈现上乳下水的分层状态。
本发明还发现,在菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯的基础上,只需复配很少量的含PEG或酯类或聚醚结构的非离子乳化剂,就可以帮助配方实现在低温(0-10℃)环境下的稳定性,同样也不需要额外复配其他乳化剂或者稳定剂。满足实现在0-48℃环境下静置3小时后,上层为乳液相下层为水相的双层外观,摇匀后成
为乳白色的均匀液体,再次静置大约经过3分钟至3小时后会再次完成分层的过程,重新呈现上乳下水的分层状态。
本发明的目的在于提供一种外观为上乳下水的双层化妆水,这种双层化妆水是一种稳态的双层剂型,具有稳定可控的分层时长和稳定的乳层含水量,本发明还提供了这种双层化妆水的制备方法。
发明内容
一方面,本发明提供了一种稳态双层型化妆水,其包含:
5-20重量%的油脂;
0.1-0.6重量%的乳化剂,所述乳化剂是菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯;
1-10重量%的保湿剂;和
水;
其中,所述乳化剂与所述油脂的重量比为0.01-0.1;
其中,所述双层型化妆水的上层是乳液相,下层是水相;
其中,所述双层型化妆水的可视化分层时长为3分钟至3小时。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水还包含0.1-0.5重量%的辅助乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,所述辅助乳化剂选自:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、PPG-1-PEG-9月桂二醇醚、PPG-25-月桂醇聚醚-25、椰油醇聚醚-7、聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类,椰油醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、PEG-40甘油椰油酸酯、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠或它们的组合。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的油脂为在室温下为液态的植物油脂、液态酯类、合成油脂和硅油类油脂。在优选的实施方式中,油脂选自:棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、环戊硅氧烷、季戊四醇四辛酸酯、矿物油它们的组合。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的保湿剂是多元醇,选自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的组合。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水还包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质中的一种或两种以上的组合。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中上层乳液相中的含水量为15-20重量%。
另一方面,本发明还提供了双层型化妆水的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(a)将保湿剂、乳化剂、任选的辅助乳化剂和水在室温至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;
(b)将油脂在室温至90℃的条件下混合,作为第二相;
(c)在室温至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质至均匀一致乳白色液体;
(d)冷却至室温至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。
在优选的实施方式中,所述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。在优选的实施方式中,所述步骤(c)在3000-5000转/分条件下均质化。
图1为实施例3双层化妆水制备完成后静置12小时的照片。
图2为实施例3双层化妆水静置3至20分钟的照片。
图3为实施例3双层化妆水静置30分钟至1.5小时的照片。
图4为实施例3双层化妆水静置2小时至4小时的照片。
图5为实施例3双层化妆水静置5小时至22-24小时的照片。
图6为实施例3双层化妆水静置22-24小时至7天的照片。
本发明提供了一种双层型化妆水,该双层型化妆水采用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯制备,静置后上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后则成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,涂抹时亲肤性更好。而且,当再次静置后会重新恢复上乳下水的分层外观,具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点,吸引消费者的眼球。
本发明的双层稳态化妆水,具有保湿滋润、轻薄易吸收、水油平衡的
优异肤感,受到消费者的青睐。
为了提供更简明的描述,本文给出的一些数量表述没有用术语“约”修饰。应当理解,无论是否明确地使用了术语“约”,本文所给出的每个量都意在指代实际的给定值,并且还意在指代由本领域的普通技术人员可合理推测出的这些给定值的近似值,包括这些给定值的由实验和/或测量条件所引起的近似值。
油脂
本发明的稳定双层化妆水可以包含化妆品领域可接受的各种液态油脂。
如本文所用,“油脂”意指一种或多种具有低于30℃熔点的疏水化合物。可用于本发明的双层型化妆水的油脂组分的化合物的合适例子包括:植物油脂、液态酯类(脂肪酸的甘油酯、甘油三酯)、合成油脂和硅油类油脂。具体的非限制性例子包括但不限于:酯例如棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、硅油(如聚二甲基硅氧烷和环戊硅氧烷)、季戊四醇四辛酸酯和矿物油。在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中包含的油脂选自:碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷或它们的任意组合。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-20重量%的油脂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-15重量%的油脂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约8-15重量%的油脂。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约8-10重量%的油脂。在另一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约10-12重量%的油脂。
乳化剂
“乳化剂”是使通常不可混溶的两种或更多种液体的混合物稳定的添加剂。本发明采用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯作为乳化剂来制备双层型化妆水。
菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯是一种来源于菊粉的植物聚合物乳化剂。菊粉是一种来源于菊苣根的糖,它是由果糖单体构成的线性聚多糖化合物。菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯是通过将疏水链嫁接到菊粉的聚多糖脊椎上而得到的植物乳化剂。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水不含其他乳化剂。
采用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯作为乳化剂能够制备得到稳态的双层型化妆水。这种双层型化妆水在静置后上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后则成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,涂抹时亲肤性更好。同时,这种双层型化妆水再次静置后(例如,3分钟至3小时)会重新恢复上乳下水的分层外观,具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.6重量%的乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.2-0.6重量%的乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.3-0.5重量%的乳化剂。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中乳化剂与油脂的重量比为0.01-0.1。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中乳化剂与油脂的重量比为0.02-0.08。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中乳化剂与油脂的重量比为0.03-0.05。
辅助乳化剂
任选地,本发明的双层型化妆水还可以使用辅助乳化剂。在一些实施方式中,辅助乳化剂选自:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、PPG-1-PEG-9月桂二醇醚、PPG-25-月桂醇聚醚-25、椰油醇聚醚-7、聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类,椰油醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、PEG-40甘油椰油酸酯、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠或它们的任意组合。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.5重量%的辅助乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.4重量%的辅助乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.2-0.4重量%的辅助乳化剂。
保湿剂
保湿剂是一类在产品中可在宽广相对湿度范围变化和较长时间内增加或
保持皮肤上层水分的化妆品原料,这类原料具有低的挥发性,可以保留水分,吸留在皮肤表面,是一类皮肤调理剂。
本发明的双层型化妆水采用的保湿剂为多元醇类。例如,保湿剂可以选自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的任意组合。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约1-10重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约2-8重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约2-5重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-8重量%的保湿剂。
其他成分
本发明的双层型化妆水可包含其他成分。例如,本申请的双层型化妆水可以包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质等。
在优选的实施方式中,所述化妆品活性物质选自具有保湿、滋养、舒缓、祛痘、控油、祛斑美白、去角质、防晒、紧致、抗皱、修护功效的成分中的一种或两种以上的组合。在优选的实施方式中,所述化妆品活性物质选自:维生素类、维生素A或其衍生物类、维生素B或其衍生物类、维生素C或其衍生物类、叶酸或其衍生物类、维生素D或其衍生物、维生素E或其衍生物类、类胡萝卜素或胡萝卜素、蛋白质、氨基酸、多肽类、肌肽及脱羧肌肽、胶原及水解胶原类、阿魏酸、虾青素、麦角硫因、辅酶类、透明质酸类、神经酰胺类、糖或多糖类生物大分子、水杨酸及其衍生物类、传明酸、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、红没药醇、乳酸杆菌及酵母发酵液类、甘草来源提取物类、甘草酸二钾、甘草亭酸硬脂酸酯、牡丹酚甙、积雪甙、天然产物提取物中的一种或两种以上的组合。
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.5重量%的甘草酸二钾。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.2重量%的甘草酸二钾。
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.5重量%的二裂酵母发酵溶胞产物滤液。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约
0.2-0.5重量%的二裂酵母发酵溶胞产物滤液。
双层化妆水的制备方法
本发明中还提供了稳态双层型化妆水的制备方法。在一些实施方式中,可以按照以下方法制备双层型化妆水:
(a)将保湿剂、乳化剂、任选的辅助乳化剂和水在室温(例如25℃-30℃)至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;
(b)将油脂在室温(例如25℃-30℃)至90℃的条件下混合,作为第二相;
(c)在室温(例如25℃)至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质化直至形成均匀一致的乳白色液体;
(d)冷却至室温(例如25℃)至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。
在优选的实施方式中,将得到的双层型化妆水静置3-24小时,得到首次分层后的双层型化妆水,上层为白色乳液相,下层为水相。
在优选的实施方式中,将分层后的化妆水摇匀后再次静置,经过3分钟至3小时可以再次完成分层,呈现上层为乳液相下层为水相的外观。
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。在更优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在80-90℃下进行。
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在2000-5000转/分条件下均质化。在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在3000-5000转/分条件下均质化。在更优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在5000转/分条件下均质化。
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)的均质化保持10-20分钟。
在一个具体的实施方式中,将去离子水、多元醇、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及任选的辅助乳化剂在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将油脂在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在室温至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000-5000转/分,保持10-20分钟,冷却至室温至45℃加入其他成分,搅拌均匀,制备完成,静置待用。
双层型化妆水的优势
本发明的双层型化妆水的最核心在于,实现了双层稳定状态,其稳定态主要表现在以下四个方面:
(1)开始出现分层的时长可控
将稳态双层型化妆水摇匀后,静置3-5分钟就能观察到开始有分层的现象,即上层乳液相和下层水相开始分离,底部出现半透明的水相层,此过程为分层现象的开始阶段。
优势在于,当消费者在3-5分钟的较短时间内就能观察到可见的分层现象,不仅满足了消费者对产品体验的趣味性,也同时满足了消费者的使用便捷性。当消费者在使用时,从先摇匀再到倾倒在手上,基本上整个过程在十几秒至1分钟左右,因此3-5分钟的时间完全能够满足,同时也确保了每次摇匀后倒出的产品是均匀一致的,不会因为分层太快而使得倒出时上下层比例不一致,从而导致可能由此造成的肤感和功效的差异。
(2)完成可视化分层过程的时长可控
在静置3分钟至40分钟的时间内,随着时间的延长,乳液相逐渐上升,水相层逐渐变高,在这个过程中水相为半透外观,乳液相和水相的分界面逐渐由模糊变清晰,此过程为乳液相和水相逐渐分离的过程,初步分层基本完成。
在静置40分钟至3小时的时间内,乳液相和水相仍然处于分相的平衡过程中,表现为乳液相高度在减小,水相更趋于透明,此过程为分层的平衡阶段。
在静置3小时至8小时的时间内,乳液相的高度基本接近,水相的透明度也基本一致,此过程为一次分层过程的完成阶段。
因此,静置3分钟至3小时的过程就是消费者在实际使用中可观察到的可视化分层时长,即静置3小时以上就可以完成一次分层的过程。
优势在于,这一可视化的分层时长不仅可控,而且非常符合消费者的使用习惯。当消费者在每天早晚使用产品时,确保能够观察到稳态双层化妆水在摇匀后重新恢复分层的变化过程,当再次使用时可重新进行摇匀;对于少数消费者,如果需要每天早中晚分三次使用产品,那么3小时的分
层时长也能满足上述要求。
(3)达到最终稳定态的时长可控
当静置至22-24小时,乳液相的高度与静置3-8小时相比仅有极轻微的减小;当继续延长静置时长,乳液相的高度则保持不变,表明当静置22-24小时后,双层化妆水达到了一个最终的稳定态。
本发明中将达到最终稳定态的双层化妆水的上层乳液相称之为“雪顶”,因其有着山顶积雪的外观特点,摇晃后上层乳液相和下层水相会快速融合一体,静置后又能快速呈现分层特色,经过3分钟至3小时整个可视化动态分层过程完成。
(4)稳态双层化妆水中上层乳液相的含水量是可控的
当双层化妆水静置22-24小时以上,达到最终稳态后,乳层和水层有清晰的分界面,而且乳层和水层的体积比(高度比)是相对固定的。将上层乳液相进行分离,用含水量的分析测试方法(卡尔·费休法)测得上层乳液相中的含水量在15-20%。
尽管在发明专利《一种双层护肤乳液及其制备方法》(中国专利号201610714882.7)中有提及到,该双层护肤乳液在完成分层后,上层为乳液,下层为液体,上下两层的比例为1∶1,但该结论只是大致判断,并没有明确的科学评估方法,更没有提及评估乳液层的含水量。
综上可见,本发明的双层化妆水具有可控的可视化分层时长和可控的稳定态静置时长,是一种稳态的双层型化妆水。本发明的稳态双层型化妆水具有固定的乳水层比例,且这种稳态双层化妆水的上层乳液相的含水量也是相对稳定的。
本发明的双层稳态化妆水,具有保湿滋润、轻薄易吸收、水油平衡的优异肤感,受到消费者的青睐。
下面结合具体实施例,以进一步阐述本发明。有必要在此指出的是,实施例只用于对本发明进行进一步的说明,不能理解为对本发明保护范围的限制,该领域的技术熟练人员可以根据上述本发明的内容做出一些非本质的改进和调整。下列实施例中未注明具体条件的试验方法,通常按照常
规条件,或按照制造厂商所建议的条件。除非另有说明,所有的百分比和份数按重量计。
本发明实施例中采用的实验材料的来源、名称和外观如下表所示:
本发明实施例中使用的实验仪器包括:
1.固定搅拌器IKA RW20
2.恒温水浴锅上海一恒科学仪器有限公司HWS 28型
3.称量天平METTLER TOLEDO PL602-S
4.均质机Polytron公司PT 3100 D型
5. 48℃烘箱:MMM group MMM707
6. 4℃冰箱:MMM group FRIOCELL707 90570
7.-18℃冰箱:海尔DW-40L
8.卡尔费休水分测试仪
实施例1:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表1所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在80℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例2:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表1所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在85℃混合
均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在85℃混合均匀作为第二相,在85℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4500转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例3:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表1所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在75℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在75℃混合均匀作为第二相,在75℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例4:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表1所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例5:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表1所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在70℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
表1:实施例1-5单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
实施例6:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表2所示,将去离子水、甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇和菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例7:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表2所示,将去离子水、甘油、丁二醇和菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例8:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表2所示,将去离子水、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇和菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液
体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例9:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表2所示,将去离子水、甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇和菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持13分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例10:单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表2所示,将去离子水、甘油、1,3-丙二醇和菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在70至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
表2:实施例6-10单一乳化剂制备双层化妆水
实施例11:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表3所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第二相,在室温(25-30℃)时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例12:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表3所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在30-50℃混合均匀作为第一相,将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在30-50℃混合均匀作为第二相,在30-50℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例13:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表3所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在70-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70-80℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2500转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例14:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表3所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在80-90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在80-90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例15:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表3所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在50-70℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在室温至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
表3:实施例11-15复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
实施例16:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表4所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第二相,在室温(25-30℃)时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例17:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表4所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-20
甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在30-50℃混合均匀作为第一相,将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在30-50℃混合均匀作为第二相,在30-50℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例18:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表4所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在70-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70-80℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2500转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例19:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表4所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在80-90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在80-90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例20:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表4所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在50-70℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在室温至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
表4:实施例16-20复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
实施例21:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表5所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及聚山梨醇酯-20在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第二相,在室温(25-30℃)时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例22:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表5所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及聚山梨醇酯-20在30-50℃混合均匀作为第一相,将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在30-50℃混合均匀作为第二相,在30-50℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例23:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表5所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及聚山梨醇
酯-20在70-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷在70-80℃混合均匀作为第二相,在70-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2500转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例24:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表5所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及聚山梨醇酯-20在80-90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷在80-90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
实施例25:复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
按表5所示,将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及聚山梨醇酯-20在50-70℃混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在室温至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
表5:实施例21-25复配乳化剂制备双层化妆水
对比例1
按表6所示将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在室温(25-30℃)下混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷室温(25-30℃)混合均匀作为第二相,在室温(25-30℃)时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持10分钟,搅拌均匀,制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。上层为乳液相,下层为水相,隔天观察到上层乳液表面有透明油层析出,说明乳液层不稳定。
对比例1的结果说明,当菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯作为单一乳化剂使用时,乳化温度是决定能否成功制备得到双层化妆水的关键因素之一,当温度偏低,即使在高剪切的强均质条件下均质足够的时长,最终也不能得到稳定理想的双层化妆水。
对比例2
将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯在80-85℃下混合均匀作为第一相,将碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷80-85℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-85℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持5分钟,制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。上层为乳液相,下层为水相,隔夜观察到上层乳液表面仍有少量的透明油层析出,说明乳液层不稳定。
对比例2的结果说明,当菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯作为单一乳化剂使用时,均质强度同样也是决定能否成功制备得到双层化妆水的另一个关键因素,当均质强度偏低的工艺条件下,即使乳化温度足够高,最终也不能得到稳定理想的双层化妆水。
对比例3
将去离子水、甘油、菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯、甲基硬脂酰基牛磺酸钠在80-85℃下混合均匀作为第一相,将油脂80-85℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-85℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,制备
完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。隔夜观察到化妆水分层后水相透明度低,底部有析出沉积,且水相与上层乳液的分界面不清晰,说明没有成功制得双层化妆水。
表6:对比例1-3制备化妆水
测试例1:实施例1-10稳定性考察
将实施例1-10的样品分别在25℃、40℃、48℃、4℃下分别储存4周、8周和12周,考察各个实施例的样品的稳定性。结果如表7所示。
表7:实施例1-10的稳定性结果
测试例2:实施例11-25稳定性考察
将实施例11-25的样品分别在25℃、40℃、48℃、4℃下分别储存4周、8周和12周,考察各个实施例的样品的稳定性。结果如表8所示。
表8:实施例11-25的稳定性结果
通过表7-8的结果可以看出,仅用单一乳化剂菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯能够制备得到上乳下水质地的双层化妆水,而不需要额外复配其他乳化剂或者稳定剂。这种双层化妆水在25℃至48℃的环境下可以实现稳定,即在25℃至48℃的环境下静置后,呈现上层为乳液相下层为水相的双层外观,摇匀后成为乳白色的均匀液体,再次静置,大约经过3分钟至3小时后会再次完成分层的过程,重新呈现上乳下水的分层状态。同时,在菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯的基础上,只需复配很少量的含PEG或酯类或聚醚结构的非离子乳化剂,就可以帮助配方实现在低温(0-10℃)环境下的稳定性,同样也不需要额外复配其他乳化剂或者稳定剂。满足实现在0-48℃环境下静置后,上层为乳液相下层为水相的双层外观,摇匀后成为乳白色的均匀液体,再次静置大约经过3分钟至3小时后会再次完成分层的过程,重新呈现上乳下水的分层状态。
测试例3:乳层含水量测试
(1)测试方法
卡尔·费休试剂的标定(容量法)
在反应瓶中加一定体积(浸没铂电极)的甲醇,在搅拌下用卡尔·费休试剂滴定至终点。加入10mg水(精确至0.0001g),滴定至终点并记录卡尔·费休试剂的用量(V1)。
卡尔·费休试剂的滴定度按式(1)计算:
T=m/V1……………………………………(1)
T=m/V1……………………………………(1)
式中:T-卡尔·费休试剂的滴定度,mg/ml;
m-加入水的质量,mg;
V1-滴定水时卡尔·费休试剂的耗用量,ml。
试样中水分的测定:
于反应瓶中加一定体积的甲醇浸没铂电极,在搅拌下用卡尔·费休试剂滴定至终点。迅速将易溶于甲醇的试样直接加入滴定杯中;对于不易溶解的试样,应采用对滴定杯进行加热或加入已测定水分的其他溶剂辅助溶解后用卡尔·费休试剂滴定至终点。
(2)含水量计算
试样中水分的测定结果按式(2)或式(3)计算
X(%)=(V2×T)/(m×10)……………………………………………(2)
X(%)=(V2×T)/(V×ρ×10)……………………………………(3)
X(%)=(V2×T)/(m×10)……………………………………………(2)
X(%)=(V2×T)/(V×ρ×10)……………………………………(3)
式中:X-样品中水分的百分含量,%;
V2-滴定试样时卡尔·费休试剂的用量,ml;
T-卡尔·费休试剂的滴定度,mg/ml;
m---加入试样的质量,g;
V---加入液体样品的体积,ml;
ρ---液体样品的密度,g/ml。
取两次平行测定结果的算术平均值作为测定结果,两次平行试验绝对差值应不大于算术平均值的10%。
(3)含水量结果
表9:含水量测试结果
通过表9的结果可以看出,本发明的双层化妆水,将其上层乳液相分离后,用含水量的分析测试方法(卡尔·费休法)测得上层乳液相中的含水量稳定在15-20%。其中,实施例2和实施例8是以菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯作为单一乳化剂,且实施例8的油脂组成中包含了常规的合成类油脂和聚二甲基硅氧烷;实施例14为菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯和辅助乳化剂PEG-40氢化蓖麻油的复配体系;实施例17为菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯和辅助乳化剂PEG-20甲基葡糖倍
半硬脂酸酯的复配体系;实施例23为菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯和辅助乳化剂聚山梨醇酯-20的复配体系。
可见,本发明的双层化妆水具有稳态的乳层含水量,且乳层的含水量稳定可控在15-20%。
测试例4:双层化妆水的实验室分层观察测试
将实施例3得到的双层化妆水为例,将双层化妆水装入200ml规格的无色透明玻璃瓶子中,上下摇晃10次充分摇匀后静置,在不同的时间点分别观察分层状态并拍照,见图2-图6。
(1)将稳态双层型化妆水摇匀后,静置3-5分钟就能观察到开始有分层的现象,即上层乳液相和下层水相开始分离,底部出现半透明的水相层,此过程为分层现象的开始阶段;
(2)在静置3分钟至40分钟的时间内,随着时间的延长,乳液相逐渐上升,水相层逐渐变高,在这个过程中水相为半透外观,乳液相和水相的分界面逐渐由模糊变清晰,此过程为乳液相和水相逐渐分离的过程,初步分层基本完成;
(3)在静置40分钟至3小时的时间内,乳液相和水相仍然处于分相的平衡过程中,表现为乳液相高度在减小,水相更趋于透明;此过程为分层的平衡阶段;
(4)在静置3小时至8小时的时间内,乳液相的高度基本接近,水相的透明度也基本一致,此过程为一次分层过程的完成阶段。
(5)当继续静置至22-24小时,虽然与静置3-8小时相比,乳液相的高度仅有极轻微的减小,但消费者在日常使用中是观察不到这一微小变化的;当继续延长静置时长,乳液相的高度则保持不变,表明当静置22-24小时后,双层化妆水达到了一个最终的稳定态。
可见,双层化妆水在摇匀后静置恢复分层的过程是一个动态的过程,静置3-5分钟能观察到可见的分层现象,既满足了消费者使用体验的趣味性,也满足了消费者的使用便捷性,即当消费者从摇匀到上脸使用,整个
过程在十几秒至1分钟左右,因此3-5分钟的时间完全能够满足,且3-5分钟也确保了每次摇匀后倒出的产品是均匀一致的;从静置3分钟至静置3小时是消费者在使用产品过程中能够观察到的可视化分层时长;静置3小时基本可以完成一次完整的可视化分层过程,这一时长是可控且符合消费者使用习惯的,即当消费者在每天早晚使用产品时,能观察到稳态双层化妆水在摇匀后重新恢复分层的变化过程,当再次使用时可重新进行摇匀;对于少数消费者,如果需要每天早中晚分三次使用产品,那么3小时的分层时长也能满足上述要求。
因此,静置3分钟至静置22-24小时的过程都是本发明所述的双层化妆水的分层状态,其中静置3分钟至静置3小时可以作为本发明所述的双层化妆水的可视化分层时长。
测试例5:模拟消费者使用场景的分层观察测试
样本量:10人
测试样品:实施例3双层化妆水样品
评估方法:随机选择10名内部消费者,按照个人的使用习惯和摇晃力度将测试样品摇匀后静置,记录开始静置的时间,待消费者自我认知已完成分层后,再次记录结束的时间,统计时间差值,以此评估消费者在实际使用产品的过程中可观察到的双层化妆水在静置后再次完成分层的所需时长。在整个观察过程中,要求样品始终保持静置状态。
测试结果:
表10:参与测试的10名消费者自我观察到的分层时长
由表10可知,消费者能观察到开始出现分层的时长基本也在3至5分钟左右,消费者自我观察感知到完成分层的时长基本在30分钟至2小时左右,满足在本发明所定义的3分钟至3小时为可视化分层时长的范围内。
应用例1
在实施例14的基础上,添加活性成分甘草酸二钾、二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞产物、香精和防腐剂苯氧乙醇等其他成分,作为消费者使用测试评估的样品。
按重量百分比,将82.95质量份的去离子水、5质量份的甘油、0.3质量份的菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯及0.4质量份的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在80-90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将4质量份的碳酸二辛酯、3质量份的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、3质量份的角鲨烷在80-90℃混合均匀作为第二相,在80-90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000转/分,保持20分钟,冷却至室温至45℃后加入0.2质量份的甘草酸二钾、0.5质量份的二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞产物、0.15质量份红没药醇、0.1质量份香精、0.4质量份苯氧乙醇,均质2000转/分,保持5分钟,得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。
其中油溶性的红没药醇、香精被乳化在双层化妆水的上层乳液相中,水溶性的甘草酸二钾和二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞产物在双层化妆水的下层水相中;由于防腐剂苯氧乙醇在油水相有一定分配系数,则一部分在乳液相中,一部分在水相中。当双层化妆水被再次摇匀后,则会重新成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,这些成分就被均匀地混合在乳白的化妆水中,在消费者使用双层化妆水时,能够帮助舒缓、修护肌肤,愉悦体验。
测试例6:消费者使用评估
测试人群:20~30岁消费者女性消费者
样本量:10人
测试样品:
化妆水A-应用例1稳态双层化妆水
化妆水B-市售欧莱雅复颜玻尿酸水光充盈双重焕亮精华水(简称“欧莱雅精华水”)
产品使用方式:按照平时使用化妆水的习惯,左右半脸分别使用应用例1稳态双层化妆水和市售欧莱雅精华水,进行对比打分;每天至少2次,早晚各使用1次;每个产品使用3天,共计6天。
评估方法:
表11:消费者测试评估方法
测试结果:
表12化妆水A和化妆水B的消费者使用评估测试结果
由表12的结果可以看出,本发明的双层化妆水在涂抹感受的喜欢程度、肤感总体喜欢程度、吸收程度、肌肤舒适度、肌肤轻盈无负担的喜欢度、肌肤上的残留感的喜欢度、肌肤的润泽感的喜欢度、肌肤的柔软度和肌肤滋润保湿效果等各个方面均优于市售欧莱雅复颜玻尿酸水光充盈双重焕亮精华水(“欧莱雅精华水”)。可见,本发明的双层化妆水,相比市售欧莱雅精华水,具有更优异的肤感,更受消费者欢迎。
其中,市售欧莱雅精华水的全成分包括以下:水、氢化聚癸烯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、红花籽油、1,2-己二醇、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、氨丁三醇、腺苷、辛酰水杨酸、透明质酸钠、PEG-40甘油椰油酸酯、乙基己基甘油、椰油醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、生育酚(维生素E)、辛甘醇、苯氧乙醇、香精。虽然市售欧莱雅精华水所用的油脂成分与本发明的双层化
妆水存在部分重叠,但本发明的双层化妆水所用的乳化剂菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯以及辅助乳化剂PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-20等都不是市售产品所实现的配方技术,因此,本发明与市售欧莱雅精华水是不一样的技术实现方式。
Claims (13)
- 一种稳态双层型化妆水,其包含:5-20重量%的油脂;0.1-0.6重量%的乳化剂,所述乳化剂是菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯;1-10重量%的保湿剂;和水;其中,所述乳化剂与所述油脂的重量比为0.01-0.1;其中,所述双层型化妆水的上层是乳液相,下层是水相;其中,所述双层型化妆水的可视化分层时长为3分钟至3小时。
- 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,还包含0.1-0.5重量%的辅助乳化剂。
- 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述辅助乳化剂选自:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、蔗糖月桂酸酯、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、PPG-1-PEG-9月桂二醇醚、PPG-25-月桂醇聚醚-25、椰油醇聚醚-7、聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类,椰油醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、PEG-40甘油椰油酸酯、肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠或它们的组合。
- 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述油脂为在室温下为液态的植物油脂、液态酯类、合成油脂和硅油类油脂。
- 如权利要求4所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述油脂选自:棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、环戊硅氧烷、季戊四醇四辛酸酯、矿物油它们的组合。
- 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述保湿剂是多元醇,选 自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的组合。
- 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,还包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质中的一种或两种以上的组合。
- 如权利要求7所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述化妆品活性物质选自具有保湿、滋养、舒缓、祛痘、控油、祛斑美白、去角质、防晒、紧致、抗皱、修护功效的成分中的一种或两种以上的组合。
- 如权利要求7所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述化妆品活性物质选自:维生素类、维生素A或其衍生物类、维生素B或其衍生物类、维生素C或其衍生物类、叶酸或其衍生物类、维生素D或其衍生物、维生素E或其衍生物类、类胡萝卜素或胡萝卜素、蛋白质、氨基酸、多肽类、肌肽及脱羧肌肽、胶原及水解胶原类、阿魏酸、虾青素、麦角硫因、辅酶类、透明质酸类、神经酰胺类、糖或多糖类生物大分子、水杨酸及其衍生物类、传明酸、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、红没药醇、乳酸杆菌及酵母发酵液类、甘草来源提取物类、甘草酸二钾、甘草亭酸硬脂酸酯、牡丹酚甙、积雪甙、天然产物提取物中的一种或两种以上的组合。
- 如权利要求1-9中任一项所述的双层型化妆水,其中,上层乳液相中的含水量为15-20重量%。
- 如权利要求1-10中任一项所述的双层型化妆水的制备方法,包括以下步骤:(a)将保湿剂、乳化剂、任选的辅助乳化剂和水在室温至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;(b)将油脂在室温至90℃的条件下混合,作为第二相;(c)在室温至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质至均匀一致乳白 色液体;(d)冷却至室温至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。
- 如权利要求11所述的制备方法,其中,所述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。
- 如权利要求11所述的制备方法,其中,所述步骤(c)在2000-5000转/分条件下均质化。
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