WO2023237762A1 - Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) - Google Patents

Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) Download PDF

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WO2023237762A1
WO2023237762A1 PCT/EP2023/065541 EP2023065541W WO2023237762A1 WO 2023237762 A1 WO2023237762 A1 WO 2023237762A1 EP 2023065541 W EP2023065541 W EP 2023065541W WO 2023237762 A1 WO2023237762 A1 WO 2023237762A1
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sorbitan
weight
composition
composition according
polymers
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PCT/EP2023/065541
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French (fr)
Inventor
Heidi Rolfes
Pradisha NAICKER
Kwezikazi MOLAMODI
Eliud THIONGO
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from ZA2022/06423A external-priority patent/ZA202206423B/en
Priority claimed from FR2207788A external-priority patent/FR3138311A1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023237762A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023237762A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s)
  • the present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpoly glyco side type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s).
  • the composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.
  • their scalp may also be dry and itchy.
  • compositions that do not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to cleanse the hair gently and efficiently as well as to bring a moisturizing effect in order to reduce the discomfort for users having curly or kinky hair.
  • compositions shall also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of the hair, in particular curly hair to kinky hair while reducing knots and avoiding breakage or damage of the fibers.
  • a composition comprising a combination of nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), sorbitan ester(s) and cationic polymer(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
  • hair treated with such a combination offers efficient but gentle cleansing properties while enhancing the moisture of the hair.
  • Hair moisture is associated with three attributes: i) hair health, ii) look & feel and lastly iii) manageability.
  • Hair health refers to how nourished the hair is, scalp moisture, hair integrity and hair growth while hair look & feel refer to shine, softness, smoothness, texture and color.
  • the real-life assessment of hair moisturization for women have chemically or non-chemically processed hair is the ease manageability: how easy the hair is to detangle, comb and achieve a desired style.
  • composition comprising:
  • nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the composition of the present invention provides a very efficient cleansing of the hair and the scalp with an immediate moisturizing effect. Moreover, the moisturizing effect can last at least 48 hours after the use of the composition.
  • the condition of hair is improved, especially the softness of the hair. The hair is also healthier and stronger, allowing it to better resist to combing and detangling.
  • the hair is easier to comb and detangle and presents better cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and shine.
  • the hair is also more manageable leading thus to a better styling, and presents less breakage.
  • composition of the present invention also provides a lasting moisturizing effect to the scalp, therefore reducing the discomfort and the itchiness thereof.
  • composition of the invention has a reduced water footprint and a good biodegradability.
  • the composition confers immediate fiber transformation to the hair and imparts moisturizing, emollient and protective properties to the hair and to the scalp.
  • the composition provides instant softness and hydration to the hair fibers.
  • composition conducts to a slight waxy coating on the hair, which results an improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of the hair fibers.
  • This slightly waxy coating thus aids in the combing and detangling of the hair to facilitate styling.
  • the composition according to the invention also has a good moisturizing effect on the scalp. Without being bound by this theory, it is known that curly hair and scalp, and more particularly frizzy hair and scalp, can be naturally dry, with little production of sebum. This type of hair needs to be permanently nourished and hydrated.
  • the composition according to the invention contributes in hair hydration and thus improves its strength and resistance (hair less fragile or brittle) as well as its softness.
  • the composition according to the invention is particularly useful for treating curly or frizzy hair.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined.
  • the term "free of" a component refers to a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, preferably which does not contain (0%) said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.
  • composition of the invention is free of amphoteric surfactants.
  • composition of the invention is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
  • the composition of the invention is free of silicones.
  • the composition is free of anionic surfactants, of amphoteric surfactants and of silicones.
  • Nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type are nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type which may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
  • - v denotes a number ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
  • nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization that is to say the value of v, being able to range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being of between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
  • Preference is very particularly given to C8-C18 alkyl (l,4)-(poly)glucosides, and in particular coco-glucoside.
  • the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures.
  • the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside.
  • the total amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of coco-glucoside ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.
  • the polyols of the invention are different from the alkylpolyglycosides previously described, and are different from polysaccharides.
  • polyol within the meaning of the present invention is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the hydrocarbon chain is linear or branched, and saturated.
  • the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups.
  • the polyols may be chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.
  • the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of glycerin ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
  • the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be oxyethylenated or non- oxyethylenated.
  • the non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate, more preferably sorbitan oleate.
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic, oleic acid, of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • sorbitan and of isostearic acid such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 2 to 20 OE
  • sorbitan and of lauric acid such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate
  • the polyoxyethylenated esters especially containing from 3 to 20 OE
  • sorbitan and of stearic acid such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate.
  • the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are preferably chosen from non- oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non- oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixture thereof.
  • the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.
  • the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of sorbitan oleate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises on or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer refers to any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups.
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic group or any group ionizable to an anionic group.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used have a weight- average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5.106, preferably of between about 103 and 3.106.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of:
  • - R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4 R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • the copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - polymers preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cationic polysaccharides notably cationic celluloses, guar gums and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic guar gums and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • the cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • cationic associative celluloses which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups including at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • Ra, Rb and Rc which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q" represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
  • R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN + -, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;
  • x and y which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.
  • At least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
  • radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radicals represent a linear or branched Cl to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
  • R may be a group chosen from -N + (CH3)3, Q’“ and - N + (Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N + (CH3)3, Q’’.
  • R’ may be a group -N + (Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’“.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • C18 alkyl such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.
  • R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide
  • R represents trimethylammonium chloride
  • CP represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride
  • CH3(Ci2H2s)N + -, Cl represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride
  • This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
  • the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s).
  • Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s)
  • Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s)
  • Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s).
  • Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).
  • the cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • the cationic guar may be chosen from products with INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Rhodia.
  • polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide
  • polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/ dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • these derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/ dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc.
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • Rio and Rn independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a Cl to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
  • - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R13, R14, RIS and Ri6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2) n CO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b)
  • X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number- average molar mass
  • Ris, R19, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) P OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - X denotes an anion, such as a halide
  • - A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2 .
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight- average molecular mass of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500000 g/mol.
  • the cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
  • the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of the cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of cationic guar gums ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Oils of triglyceride type Oils of triglyceride type
  • composition of the invention may also comprise oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
  • amphoteric surfactants amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
  • the composition may preferably be removed by rinsing with water.
  • the fibres may then be dried or left to dry.
  • the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • compositions are indicated as mass percentages of active material (am) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • Protocol for product application
  • compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative), as well as a further composition D (a standard shampoo on the market, comparative) were applied to wet hair (naturally curly hair, curl pattern 4-5 or 7-8).
  • the standard protocol for assessing detangling is conducted on bleached multi ethnic hair (Curl pattern 4-5). The following protocol was used for each composition Al, A2 and D, a standard shampoo on the market:
  • the product amount applied was 0.4g/g of hair, with 30 seconds of massaging, 1 min leave-in period, followed by 30 second rinse step.
  • compositions according to the invention improve the detangling of the hair in a very important manner. d) Hair Softness of dry hair
  • the compression method was developed to simulate the consumer action of assessing softness by touching and scrunching the hair on their head.
  • the method measures the force of compression of a swatch using a cylinder and piston set up.
  • the resistance offered by the sample is taken as indicator of hair softness.
  • hair softness is a desirable attribute for the curliest hair, hair softness was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as follows:
  • the swatch is inserted inside the cylinder with the root ends at the bottom and the tips ends facing upwards.
  • the swatch is secured using a cotton string. This allows for the swatch to be introduced without any constraints.
  • the piston is then attached to the sensor and the compression force exerted by the piston onto the swatch are measured. This is repeated 5 times and the average compression work is captured using a LLOYD LS1EH extensometer (Amatek): the lower the compression work, the softer the hair.
  • compositions according to the invention improve the softness of the hair in a very important manner.
  • the vitro Afro combing method was developed to simulate the on-head combing motion from root to tip on very curly hair.
  • a specific comb designed for combing African hair is used.
  • the swatch is inserted at the root of the swatch in the comb and the swatch is clamped to the sensor.
  • the swatch moves in a linear translation and the combing forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the combing forces are captured using a Lloyd LS1EH extensometer (Amatek).
  • compositions according to the invention improve the hair combing in a very important manner.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s). The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s)
The present invention relates to a composition useful for cleansing keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpoly glyco side type, polyol(s), C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s). The composition of the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactants.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres using such a composition.
People with curly or kinky hair often experience dry hair. This is related to the particular structure of this type of hair.
Moreover, their scalp may also be dry and itchy.
People with curly to kinky hair generally have a scalp which produces little sebum. In addition, this sebum does not distribute well on the scalp and hair, especially when the curls are tight. As sebum has a nourishing and protective role for hair, its poor distribution leads to brittle and fragile hair.
The dryness of the hair and scalp can also be aggravated by the use of shampoos that may be too aggressive.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions that do not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to cleanse the hair gently and efficiently as well as to bring a moisturizing effect in order to reduce the discomfort for users having curly or kinky hair.
The compositions shall also improve the combing, styling and detangling properties of the hair, in particular curly hair to kinky hair while reducing knots and avoiding breakage or damage of the fibers.
It has now been discovered that a composition, comprising a combination of nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), sorbitan ester(s) and cationic polymer(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above. In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a combination offers efficient but gentle cleansing properties while enhancing the moisture of the hair. Hair moisture is associated with three attributes: i) hair health, ii) look & feel and lastly iii) manageability. Hair health refers to how nourished the hair is, scalp moisture, hair integrity and hair growth while hair look & feel refer to shine, softness, smoothness, texture and color. The real-life assessment of hair moisturization for women have chemically or non-chemically processed hair is the ease manageability: how easy the hair is to detangle, comb and achieve a desired style.
Thus, a subject of the invention is a composition comprising:
- one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more polyols,
- one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan,
- one or more cationic polymers.
The composition of the present invention provides a very efficient cleansing of the hair and the scalp with an immediate moisturizing effect. Moreover, the moisturizing effect can last at least 48 hours after the use of the composition. The condition of hair is improved, especially the softness of the hair. The hair is also healthier and stronger, allowing it to better resist to combing and detangling.
Moreover, the hair is easier to comb and detangle and presents better cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and shine. The hair is also more manageable leading thus to a better styling, and presents less breakage. These benefits are also long lasting.
The composition of the present invention also provides a lasting moisturizing effect to the scalp, therefore reducing the discomfort and the itchiness thereof.
Moreover, the composition of the invention has a reduced water footprint and a good biodegradability.
The composition confers immediate fiber transformation to the hair and imparts moisturizing, emollient and protective properties to the hair and to the scalp. The composition provides instant softness and hydration to the hair fibers.
The application of the composition conducts to a slight waxy coating on the hair, which results an improvement in the smoothness and suppleness of the hair fibers. This slightly waxy coating thus aids in the combing and detangling of the hair to facilitate styling.
The composition according to the invention also has a good moisturizing effect on the scalp. Without being bound by this theory, it is known that curly hair and scalp, and more particularly frizzy hair and scalp, can be naturally dry, with little production of sebum. This type of hair needs to be permanently nourished and hydrated. The composition according to the invention contributes in hair hydration and thus improves its strength and resistance (hair less fragile or brittle) as well as its softness. The composition according to the invention is particularly useful for treating curly or frizzy hair.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free of" a component refers to a composition which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, preferably which does not contain (0%) said component, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of amphoteric surfactants.
More preferably, the composition of the invention is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
Preferably, the composition of the invention is free of silicones.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of anionic surfactants, of amphoteric surfactants and of silicones.
Nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type, present in an amount of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glyco side type which may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a number ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- 1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, being able to range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being of between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside. Preference is very particularly given to C8-C18 alkyl (l,4)-(poly)glucosides, and in particular coco-glucoside.
Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures.
More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type is coco-glucoside.
Mention may be made, among the commercial products, of the products sold by BASF under the Plantacare® 818 name.
Preferably, the total amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of coco-glucoside ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferentially from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyols
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.
The polyols of the invention are different from the alkylpolyglycosides previously described, and are different from polysaccharides.
By "polyol" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the hydrocarbon chain is linear or branched, and saturated.
Particularly, the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
Preferably, the polyol(s) comprise(s) from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups.
The polyols may be chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin. Preferably, the total amount of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 3 OH groups, ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferentially, the total amount of glycerin ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Fatty acid esters of sorbitan
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be oxyethylenated or non- oxyethylenated.
Preferably, the fatty acid is unsaturated (comprises at least one C=C bond, preferably one) and more preferably comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 20, most preferably is oleic acid.
The non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate, more preferably sorbitan oleate.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12- C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic, oleic acid, of sorbitan containing especially from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (POLYSORBATE-21),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-20),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-
40), - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-60),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (POLYSORBATE-61),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-80),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (POLYSORB ATE- 81),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65),
- polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing especially from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as:
- the polyoxyethylenated ester containing 20 OE of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG- 10 sorbitan laurate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate),
- the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 3 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
The C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are preferably chosen from non- oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non- oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from: sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixture thereof. Preferentially, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate. Preferably, the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of sorbitan oleate ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polymers
The composition according to the invention also comprises on or more cationic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" refers to any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
Preferably, the cationic polymers according to the invention do not comprise any anionic group or any group ionizable to an anionic group.
Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used have a weight- average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5.106, preferably of between about 103 and 3.106.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:
Figure imgf000010_0001
in which formulae:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxy alkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/ vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/ methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;
- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Cl C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses, guar gums and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic guar gums and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, use may also be made of cationic associative celluloses, which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI):
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which:
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q’ in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q" represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+-, Q’’ in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.
Preferably, in formula (VI), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Preferably, in formula (VI), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still CIO to C24 or even CIO to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched Cl to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Better still, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q’“ and - N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q”, preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q’’.
Even better still, R’ may be a group -N+(Ci2H2s)(CH3)2, Q’“. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
- Polyquatemium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VI) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, CP and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H2s)N+-, Cl". This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (VI) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs (between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa.s). Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs (2.5 Pa.s), Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs (2.7 Pa.s) and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs (2.8 Pa.s). Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs (between 1 and 2 Pa.s).
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). The cationic guar may be chosen from products with INCI name hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Rhodia. (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quatemization products of these polymers.
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quatemized;
(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/ dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/ dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the poly alkylene poly amine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII):
Figure imgf000016_0001
in which formulae (VII) and (VIII):
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxy alkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a Cl to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
- Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight- average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula
Figure imgf000016_0002
in which formula (IX):
- R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxy alkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)nCO-D-OC- (CH2)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical - CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number- average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula (X):
Figure imgf000018_0001
in which formula (X) Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound of formula (X) that is particularly preferred is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XI):
Figure imgf000018_0002
in which formula (XI):
- Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X" denotes an anion, such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2- CH2 .
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) polyamines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers including in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000019_0001
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000019_0002
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight- average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total amount of the cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the total amount of cationic guar gums ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oils of triglyceride type
The composition of the invention may also comprise oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
When present in the composition of the invention, the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric surfactants, amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including tocopherol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as previously defined, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
After an optional leave-on time, the composition may preferably be removed by rinsing with water. The fibres may then be dried or left to dry.
Generally, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The example that follows serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Examples
In the example that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are indicated as mass percentages of active material (am) relative to the total weight of the composition. a) Compositions
Compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
Figure imgf000022_0001
b) Protocol for product application
The compositions Al and A2 (according to the invention) and C (comparative), as well as a further composition D (a standard shampoo on the market, comparative) were applied to wet hair (naturally curly hair, curl pattern 4-5 or 7-8).
For each test, a product amount 0.4g/g of hair was applied for 30 seconds by massaging onto wet hair, product was left on hair for 1 min then rinsed for 30 seconds. Assessments were carried out at ambient conditions, the conditioning effects were evaluated on wet and dry hair. c) Wet detangling
A common and highly consumer-relevant approach for measuring this lubrication involves an instrumental combing experiment. To evaluate the smoothness properties, the classical Garcia combing method (ML Garcia and J Diaz, Combability Measurements on Hair, J Cosmet Sci 27 379-398 (1976)) is conducted on hair while hair is still wet.
The standard protocol for assessing detangling is conducted on bleached multi ethnic hair (Curl pattern 4-5). The following protocol was used for each composition Al, A2 and D, a standard shampoo on the market:
1. Eight tresses (each 3.0g, 8in in length) were used per composition.
2. As indicated above (see b)), the product amount applied was 0.4g/g of hair, with 30 seconds of massaging, 1 min leave-in period, followed by 30 second rinse step.
3. Six measurements are taken per tress using an Instron tensile tester to measure maximum force as an indicator of product performance. 4. Testing involves use of an Instron tensile tester to measure frictional forces while a wet hair tress is pulled through a comb and evaluates of the “combing force”: the lower the strength, the easier the detangling.
The results are indicated in the table below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the detangling of the hair in a very important manner. d) Hair Softness of dry hair
In order to quantify the modification made by the treatment to hair softness, the longitudinal compression forces of dry hair were assessed.
The compression method was developed to simulate the consumer action of assessing softness by touching and scrunching the hair on their head.
The method measures the force of compression of a swatch using a cylinder and piston set up. The resistance offered by the sample is taken as indicator of hair softness. As hair softness is a desirable attribute for the curliest hair, hair softness was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as follows:
To carry out the test, after treatment as outlined in the product application protocol outline above (see b) above), the swatch is inserted inside the cylinder with the root ends at the bottom and the tips ends facing upwards. The swatch is secured using a cotton string. This allows for the swatch to be introduced without any constraints. The piston is then attached to the sensor and the compression force exerted by the piston onto the swatch are measured. This is repeated 5 times and the average compression work is captured using a LLOYD LS1EH extensometer (Amatek): the lower the compression work, the softer the hair.
The results are indicated in the table below:
Figure imgf000023_0002
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the softness of the hair in a very important manner. e) Ease of combing of dry hair
To assess the combing forces of dry hair swatches in order to quantify the modification made by treatment, the vitro Afro combing method was developed to simulate the on-head combing motion from root to tip on very curly hair. To measure the force of combing of swatch, a specific comb designed for combing African hair is used. To carry out the test, the swatch is inserted at the root of the swatch in the comb and the swatch is clamped to the sensor. The swatch moves in a linear translation and the combing forces are measured. This movement is repeated 4 times and the combing forces are captured using a Lloyd LS1EH extensometer (Amatek).
Ease of combing was assessed on very curly hair from (curl pattern 7-8) as outlined above.
The lower the combing force, the easier the hair is to comb.
The results are indicated in the table below:
Figure imgf000024_0001
It can be seen here that the compositions according to the invention improve the hair combing in a very important manner.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, present in an amount of at least to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more polyols,
- one or more C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan,
- one or more cationic polymers.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said one or more nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type are chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, capryl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and their mixtures, and more preferentially the nonionic surfactant of alkylpoly glyco side type is coco-glucoside.
3. Composition according to either of claims 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of nonionic surfactants of alkylpoly glycoside type ranges from 4 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 4.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more polyols are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane - 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, octane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polyols ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and better still from 2 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are chosen from non-oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably from non-oxyethylenated C12-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, and even more preferably from sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate and mixtures thereof, and most preferably the C8-C30 fatty acid ester of sorbitan is sorbitan oleate.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said one or more cationic polymers are chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula below:
Figure imgf000027_0001
in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and
- X denotes an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or an halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) cationic polysaccharides;
(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals having linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers; 1
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine;
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene poly amines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents;
(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;
(7) alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers;
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (IX):
Figure imgf000028_0001
formula (IX), in which:
- R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or alternatively R , Ru, Ris and Ri6, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R , Ri4, RIS and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Cl to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a CO-O-R17-D or CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X" denotes an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid; with the proviso that Ai, R13 and R15 may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2-)n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group conforming to one of the following formulae: -(CH2- CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4, representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2- CH2-; or d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-i-CO-CH-;
(9) quaternary poly ammonium polymers comprising units of the formula (XI):
Figure imgf000029_0001
formula (XI), in which:
- Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, or P-hydroxypropyl radical or a radical - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-;
(10) quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers;
(11) polyamines; and
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units conforming to the formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000029_0002
(b) optionally one or more units conforming to the formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000030_0001
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said one or more cationic polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, preferably from cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof, more preferably from cationic guar gums and mixtures thereof, preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and better still from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic polymers ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably chosen from heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the total amount of triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of anionic surfactants.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of amphoteric surfactants.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric surfactants.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of silicones.
17. Cosmetic process for cleansing keratin fibers wherein a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied.
PCT/EP2023/065541 2022-06-09 2023-06-09 Composition comprising nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type, polyol(s), c8-c30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and cationic polymer(s) WO2023237762A1 (en)

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ZA2022/06423 2022-06-09
FRFR2207788 2022-07-28
FR2207788A FR3138311A1 (en) 2022-07-28 2022-07-28 Composition comprising a nonionic surfactant(s) of the alkylpolyglycoside type, a polyol(s), a C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) of sorbitan and a polymer(s) s) cationic(s)

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