WO2017036134A1 - A hair conditioning composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof - Google Patents

A hair conditioning composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017036134A1
WO2017036134A1 PCT/CN2016/077962 CN2016077962W WO2017036134A1 WO 2017036134 A1 WO2017036134 A1 WO 2017036134A1 CN 2016077962 W CN2016077962 W CN 2016077962W WO 2017036134 A1 WO2017036134 A1 WO 2017036134A1
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composition according
composition
weight
amount
relative
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PCT/CN2016/077962
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French (fr)
Inventor
Mingjia LI
Ji Feng
Chaochun Dong
Tan WANG
Zhaoxia Bao
Xiaopeng Hong
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to CN201680046771.1A priority Critical patent/CN109069403A/en
Publication of WO2017036134A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017036134A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair care composition, comprising at least a surfactant, fatty alcohols, and lotus flower oil.
  • the cosmetic preparation leads to an improvement in the physical-optical properties of the hair, without leaving the hair with an oily or coated appearance.
  • the invention also relates to use of the cosmetic preparation.
  • Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers: the central part, which is called hair marrow (medulla) , is regressed in humans, often completely missing; then there is the marrow, also called cortex; and cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.
  • hair marrow marrow
  • the horny layer being the external sheath of the hair, and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.
  • Sunlight mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing, hair treatments, such as hair colorations, bleaching and permanent waving, and also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage to hair.
  • One aim of hair care is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a period as long as possible and, in the case of loss of the natural state, to restore it.
  • natural healthy hair has a silky shine look, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel.
  • Lotus is a perennial aquatic plant with pink flowers. Lotus is utilized as a dietary staple and also for a variety of medical purposes in Eastern Asia, particularly in China. Lotus seed is utilized in the management of a variety of conditions, including tissue inflammation, poisoning, cancer, and leprosy. A pale yellow coloured liquid, extracted from Lotus plants, has been considered sacred for centuries. It has been used as effective remedy for skin conditions and stress related ailments such as headache, nausea, morning sickness, vomiting etc.
  • Lotus flower comprises linoleic acid, protein, phosphorus, iron and vitamins B and C. Practitioners of Ayurveda medicine often use lotus flowers on the face because the flower has soothing and cooling properties. Lotus (Nelumbonuficera) flower essential oil increases melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes as described in detail in Exp. Mol. Med. 2009, July 31.41 (7) , 517-524.
  • Lotus flowers belong to the botanical family of Nelumbonaceae. This is a family different from the botanical family of Nymphaeaceae, the family of water lilies.
  • US 2006/072105 A1 discloses the use of an extract of Nymphaeacaerulea in compositions for conditioning hair. It is described that the extract of Nymphaeacaerulea is improving the hair shine, but also has positive effects on combability, elasticity and manageability of hair and improves the volume and body of the hair. However, the extract is an aqueous one and the Blue Lotus Flower (Nymphaeacaerulea) belongs to another botanical plant family than the Lotus flowers used in the present invention.
  • CN 101164520A discloses in examples 1 and 7 the use of an extract of Lotus flowers. There is no description of any effect nor what kind of extract is used.
  • conditioning compositions also suffer from the following disadvantages: Conditioning compositions containing synthetic and/or natural oils or oily extracts often leave the hair with an oily, unclean or coated feel or even an over conditioned feel. In consequence, the hair has not enough volume and body.
  • the present invention is made to overcome the above mentioned disadvantages of the prior art conditioning compositions.
  • Aim of the present invention is to make available conditioning compositions containing a natural oil, such as lotus flower oil, for treatment of hair without leaving an oily film on the hair, but at the same time providing good combability, softness and gliding in wet and dry hair together with hair, that is free flowing after application of compositions of the present invention without any heavy or coated feel.
  • the conditioning composition of the present invention should retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over as long a period as possible, and restore the condition of the hair as much as possible when it is damaged.
  • Inventors of the present invention found out that a conditioning composition containing lotus flower oil in a concentration of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair.
  • the present invention provides a composition for conditioning hair, comprising
  • -Lotus flower oil in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the composition comprises preferably 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 6.0 % by weight of lotus flower oil.
  • composition can optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of “detailed description of the invention” , such as cationic polymers, humectants such as silicones, preservatives, pearlescent agents and colorants.
  • auxiliary components such as cationic polymers, humectants such as silicones, preservatives, pearlescent agents and colorants.
  • the composition comprises balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100% by weight.
  • the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention in conditioning and nourishing hair, especially to improve the combability, gliding, and softness of dry hair.
  • the use of the compositions of the present invention is providing free flowing hair with body and volume and sufficient amounts of moisture.
  • the conditioning composition of the present invention leads to significantly improved combability, gliding, and softness of dry hair. Furthermore, after treatment with compositionsof the present invention, hair is free flowing, having body and volume, and retains sufficient amounts of moisture.
  • the lotus flower oil can be obtained from lotus flowers through CO 2 supercritical extraction process using GTCC as the solvent, aiming at getting an oil soluble substance from the lotus flower.
  • lotus flower oil is commercially available from the Morechem Company, Korea.
  • lotus flower oil and/or an oily extract of lotus flower is essential for the present invention.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably those which have conditioning qualities. More preferably, the cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts. It is still more preferred that the quaternary ammonium salts contain nitrogen atoms having three methyl groups as substituents whereas the fourth substituent is a long-chained alkyl residue which can be straight, branched, substituted or unsubstituted. It is preferred that the alkyl residue is a straight, unsubstituted one containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms. It is even more preferred when the alkyl residue contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the corresponding anion can be selected from the group chloride, bromide and methosulfate. It is most preferred to use behentrimonium chloride, which can be purchased as Genamin KDMP from ClariantShe GmbH (Germany) .
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the cationic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants which can function as cationic surfactants at acidic pH-values are called nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality. These surfactants also very useful. They have a biodegradability which is better than those of classic cationic surfactants in most of the cases. Said surfactants, even those having long chain alkyl substituents have a good water solubility.
  • the most preferred surfactant of this class of surfactants is behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • At least one of said nonionic surfactants can be used.
  • the at least one said nonionic surfactant is used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of said nonionic surfactants.
  • inventive compositions can contain cationic surfactants or nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality. However, it is preferred that the inventive compositions contain both, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality.
  • fatty alcohols are used.
  • Fatty alcohols are straight, long-chained with one hydroxyl group at the first carbon atom.
  • the alkyl residue has 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can have one or multiple double bonds. It is preferred that the alkyl residues have 14 to 20 carbon atoms. More preferred is the use of cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.
  • the at least one fatty alcohol is used preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 12.0 % by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • additional conditioning components can be optionally comprised in the composition.
  • Silicones especially dimethicones and/or amodimethicones are a preferable class of hair care components.
  • dimethicones and amodimethicones are emollients.
  • Hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention can contain dimethicones or amodimethicones, but it is preferred to use a mixture of dimethicones and amodimethicones.
  • the ratio by weight of dimethicones to amodimethicones is from 5 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 5, preferable from 3 ⁇ 1 to 1 ⁇ 3, even more preferred 3 ⁇ 1.
  • Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms.
  • the functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane.
  • many siloxane units are arranged in a linear way, each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues.
  • Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length account for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values. Dimethicones, or silicone fluids, as they are also called, can be purchased having varying values of viscosity.
  • cst centistokes
  • 1,000,000 cst Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1,000,000 cst.
  • the lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications.
  • the products having 100-500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products.
  • the viscosity values are referring to those values which are given by the suppliers of the respective silicone components to characterize these components.
  • the silicones are preferably dimethicones available as Baysilone M Dimethicone (5,000-2,000,000 cst, ) or CB-50M ( ⁇ 500,000 cst at 25°C) , both supplied by Momentive; further preferred are Dimethyl Silicone Fluids supplied by Dow Corning like PMX-200 Silicone Fluid (60,000-500,000 cst) or CB 6634 Fluid (250,000 ⁇ 650,000 cst) .
  • the dimethicones are used preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.75% to 3.5 % by weight, even more preferably 1.0 to 2.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the dimethicones.
  • Amodimethicones have a similar molecular structure as dimethicones, siloxane units arranged in a linear way. But a considerable part of the methyl residues is substituted by residues containing a nitrogen atom or an amine residue.
  • the amodimethicones are preferably amodimethicones available as 8500 Conditioning Agent, 2-8566 Amino Fluid or AP-8087 Fluid from DOW CORNING or SC-100 (SOFTCARE 100) from Shanghai Huanqiu Industrial Development Co., Ltd. or WACKER-BELSIL ADM 6058 CN from Wacker Chemicals Silicones (ZJG) .
  • the amodimethicones are used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 2.0 % by weight, even more preferred 0.25 to 1.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the silicones.
  • Cationic polymers are further type of conditioning components.
  • the cationic polymer can be of natural origin or synthetic origin, and can be selected from the group consisting of cationic polysaccharide, vinyl monomer copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, cation modified protein, etc.
  • the cationic polymers of natural origin can be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents are introduced which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair conditioning compositions.
  • An example of the modified guar molecules is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Cationic polymers derived from cellulose can also be used in the present invention. Similar to the case of guar, the substituents introduced to cellulose allow the cellulose molecule to have cationic qualities.
  • An example is polyquaternium 10 (e.g. JR obtained from Amerchol company) , which is also called cellulose 2- (2-hydroxy-3 (trimethylammonio) propoxy) ethyl ether chloride.
  • Polyquaternium 74 is an acrylic /methacrylamidepropyldimethylammonium chloride /hydroxypropyltrimethyl-ammonium copolymer.
  • cationic polymers are used the amounts of cationic polymers are from 0.001 to 1.5 % by weight, preferably 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the cationic polymers.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention preferably contain humectants.
  • Humectants are hygroscopic substances which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function.
  • Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey.
  • Preferred humectants are lactic acid and propylene glycol.
  • One or more humectants can be used according to the present invention. However it is preferred that at least two different humectants are present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the one or more humectant (s) is/are used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the humectant.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can optionally comprise pearlescent agents.
  • pearlescent agents are ethylene glycol mono-stearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can comprise preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • preservatives which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • the preferred preservatives can be used alone or in combination.
  • the total amount of preservative, referring as well to one single preservative as to a combination of preservatives, is from 0.0001 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can comprise colorants which have to be water soluble.
  • suitable water soluble colorants are CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 14700.
  • the preferred colorant for the present invention is CI 19140.
  • composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair conditioning composition.
  • the hair conditioning compositions can be prepared as oil in water emulsionswhich are directly applied to hair.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.
  • compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are preferably produced with the following procedure (Table 1 shows the detailed composition of the Examples, and Table 3 shows the corresponding trade name and INCI of the compounds) :
  • an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.
  • phase B To phase A slowly with stirring, stir at 150-250rpm until 50-60°C.
  • phase E slowly with stirring, stir and let the batch cool down to room temperature.
  • compositions comprising lotus flower oil at different concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight (Examples 1-6) are prepared as samples of the present invention, and a blank shampoo is used as the comparative sample (Comparative Example) , which does not comprise lotus flower oil at all. Respective test samples are filled in syringes, not revealing any details of the composition therein. Depending on the length of the hair, the sample use amount will be 3-5 ml.
  • a trained hairdresser starts with an initial assessment of the subject’s hair to be treated by evaluating and recording the condition of the subject’s hair.
  • Comb the hair with fine tooth comb, and assess the dry combability, then the dry gliding, anti-roughness on hair-ends, “not weight down” effect, anti-static effect, and the hair gloss.
  • the evaluation is done based on a 10-point system, “1 point” corresponds to “bad” , and “10 points” corresponds to “good” .
  • a value of 5 points is a medium value, corresponding to sufficient qualities.
  • the values of 9 to 6 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient.
  • the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.
  • test and evaluation results are shown in Table 2, wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample.
  • an amount of 2.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil in the respective composition leads to slightly improved results regarding combability, gliding and softness of wet hair.
  • 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil in the respective composition leads to a noticeable improvement in the range of 11 to 15 % concerning combability, gliding and softness in comparison to hair treated with compositions containing no lotus flower oil.
  • the flowing and the moisture content of hair in a dry condition is evaluated best after the application of compositions containing 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil, too.
  • the improvement accounts for 13 % referring to moisture content and 26 % concerning the flowing of hair.
  • the evaluation of the condition of dry hair refers to heaviness.
  • a low value means the hair feels like somewhat too thick, it looks slumping down or even oily.
  • a higher value means the anti-static ability is somewhat bad, it looks too fluffy.
  • the ideal value is between 5-7; most preferably is between 5.5-6.
  • the composition containing 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil leads to the best performance in dry hair heaviness.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition for conditioning hair containing lotus flower oil and use thereof, the composition comprising surfactant, fatty alcohol, and lotus flower oil.

Description

A Hair Conditioning Composition for Hair Care Containing Lotus Flower Oil and Use Thereof Technical field
The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair care composition, comprising at least a surfactant, fatty alcohols, and lotus flower oil. The cosmetic preparation leads to an improvement in the physical-optical properties of the hair, without leaving the hair with an oily or coated appearance. The invention also relates to use of the cosmetic preparation.
Background Art
The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is covered with hair, albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However, nowadays, the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin, it fulfills a social function because it contributes considerably to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.
Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers: the central part, which is called hair marrow (medulla) , is regressed in humans, often completely missing; then  there is the marrow, also called cortex; and cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.
Human hair in its freshly grown condition is virtually impossible to improve. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular, the horny layer, being the external sheath of the hair, and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.
Sunlight, mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing, hair treatments, such as hair colorations, bleaching and permanent waving, and also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage to hair.
One aim of hair care is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a period as long as possible and, in the case of loss of the natural state, to restore it. Generally, natural healthy hair has a silky shine look, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel.
Lotus is a perennial aquatic plant with pink flowers. Lotus is utilized as a dietary staple and also for a variety of medical purposes in Eastern Asia, particularly in China. Lotus seed is utilized in the management of a variety of conditions, including tissue inflammation, poisoning, cancer, and leprosy. A pale yellow coloured liquid, extracted from Lotus plants, has been considered sacred for centuries. It has been used as effective remedy for skin conditions and stress related ailments such as headache, nausea, morning sickness, vomiting etc.
Lotus flower comprises linoleic acid, protein, phosphorus, iron and vitamins B and C. Practitioners of Ayurveda medicine often use lotus  flowers on the face because the flower has soothing and cooling properties. Lotus (Nelumbonuficera) flower essential oil increases melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes as described in detail in Exp. Mol. Med. 2009, July 31.41 (7) , 517-524.
Lotus flowers belong to the botanical family of Nelumbonaceae. This is a family different from the botanical family of Nymphaeaceae, the family of water lilies.
US 2006/072105 A1 discloses the use of an extract of Nymphaeacaerulea in compositions for conditioning hair. It is described that the extract of Nymphaeacaerulea is improving the hair shine, but also has positive effects on combability, elasticity and manageability of hair and improves the volume and body of the hair. However, the extract is an aqueous one and the Blue Lotus Flower (Nymphaeacaerulea) belongs to another botanical plant family than the Lotus flowers used in the present invention.
Furthermore there is a great number of publications of the KPSS-Kao Company disclosing the use of an aqueous lotus flower extract as an optional additional ingredient without describing any effect of the mentioned extract; these publications are EP 1927341 B1, EP 2036534 A1, EP 1728503 B1, EP 2022487 A1, EP 2070515 A1, EP 2022481 A1, EP 2191811 B1, EP 1925281 B1, EP 2022476 A1, EP 1923043 A1, EP 1929993 A2.
CN 101164520A discloses in examples 1 and 7 the use of an extract of Lotus flowers. There is no description of any effect nor what kind of extract is used.
Furthermore, the prior art hair care compositions, especially conditioning compositions also suffer from the following disadvantages: Conditioning compositions containing synthetic and/or natural oils or oily extracts often leave the hair with an oily, unclean or coated feel or even an over conditioned feel. In consequence, the hair has not enough volume and body.
The present invention is made to overcome the above mentioned disadvantages of the prior art conditioning compositions. Aim of the present invention is to make available conditioning compositions containing a natural oil, such as lotus flower oil, for treatment of hair without leaving an oily film on the hair, but at the same time providing good combability, softness and gliding in wet and dry hair together with hair, that is free flowing after application of compositions of the present invention without any heavy or coated feel.
Preferably, the conditioning composition of the present invention should retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over as long a period as possible, and restore the condition of the hair as much as possible when it is damaged.
Summary of the invention
Inventors of the present invention found out that a conditioning composition containing lotus flower oil in a concentration of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair.
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning hair, comprising
-at least one cationic surfactant,
-at least one fatty alcohol and/or at least one emollient,
-Lotus flower oil in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
-optionally at least one preservative and/or at least one humectants and/or further auxiliary components.
In a further aspect, the composition comprises preferably 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 6.0 % by weight of lotus flower oil.
Furthermore, the composition can optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of “detailed description of the invention” , such as cationic polymers, humectants such as silicones, preservatives, pearlescent agents and colorants.
In addition to the above components and the auxiliary components, the composition comprises balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100% by weight.
In another aspect, the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention in conditioning and nourishing hair, especially to improve the combability, gliding, and softness of dry hair. In another aspect the use of the compositions of the present invention is providing free flowing hair with body and volume and sufficient amounts of moisture.
By using the composition of the present invention, the disadvantages of the prior art conditioning compositions are overcome. The conditioning composition of the present invention leads to significantly improved combability, gliding, and softness of dry hair. Furthermore, after treatment with compositionsof the present invention, hair is free flowing, having body and volume, and retains sufficient amounts of moisture.
Detailed description of the invention
The lotus flower oil can be obtained from lotus flowers through CO2 supercritical extraction process using GTCC as the solvent, aiming at getting an oil soluble substance from the lotus flower. For example, such lotus flower oil is commercially available from the Morechem Company, Korea.
The use of lotus flower oil and/or an oily extract of lotus flower is essential for the present invention.
According to the invention, the cationic surfactants are preferably those which have conditioning qualities. More preferably, the cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts. It is still more preferred that the quaternary ammonium salts contain nitrogen atoms having three methyl groups as substituents whereas the fourth substituent is a long-chained alkyl residue which can be straight, branched, substituted or unsubstituted. It is preferred that the alkyl residue is a straight, unsubstituted one containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms. It is even more preferred when the alkyl residue contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms. The corresponding anion can be selected from the group chloride, bromide and methosulfate. It is most preferred to use behentrimonium chloride, which can be purchased as Genamin KDMP from ClariantProdukte GmbH (Germany) .
The at least one cationic surfactant is used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the cationic surfactants.
According to the invention nonionic surfactants which can function as cationic surfactants at acidic pH-values are called nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality. These surfactants also very useful. They have a biodegradability which is better than those of classic cationic surfactants in most of the cases. Said surfactants, even those having long chain alkyl substituents have a good water solubility. The most preferred surfactant of this class of surfactants is behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
According to the invention at least one of said nonionic surfactants can be used. The at least one said nonionic surfactant is used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of said nonionic surfactants.
The inventive compositions can contain cationic surfactants or nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality. However, it is preferred that the inventive compositions contain both, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants with cationic functionality.
According to the invention fatty alcohols are used. Fatty alcohols are straight, long-chained with one hydroxyl group at the first carbon atom. The alkyl residue has 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can have one or multiple double bonds. It is preferred that the alkyl residues have 14 to 20 carbon atoms. More preferred is the use of cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.
The at least one fatty alcohol is used preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 12.0 % by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, additional conditioning components can be optionally comprised in the composition.
Silicones, especially dimethicones and/or amodimethicones are a preferable class of hair care components. In the sense of the present application dimethicones and amodimethicones are emollients. Hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention can contain dimethicones or amodimethicones, but it is preferred to use a mixture of dimethicones and amodimethicones. The ratio by weight of dimethicones to amodimethicones is from 5∶1 to 1∶5, preferable from 3∶1 to 1∶3, even more preferred 3∶1.
Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms. The functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane. In case of dimethicones many siloxane units are arranged in a linear way, each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues. Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length account for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values. Dimethicones, or silicone fluids, as they are also called, can be purchased having varying values of viscosity. Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1,000,000 cst. The lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications. The products having 100-500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products. The viscosity values are referring to those values which are given by the suppliers of the respective silicone components to characterize these components.
According to the invention, the silicones are preferably dimethicones available as Baysilone M Dimethicone (5,000-2,000,000 cst, ) or CB-50M (~500,000 cst at 25℃) , both supplied by Momentive; further preferred are Dimethyl Silicone Fluids supplied by Dow Corning like PMX-200 Silicone Fluid (60,000-500,000 cst) or CB 6634 Fluid (250,000~650,000 cst) .
The dimethicones are used preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.75% to 3.5 % by weight, even more preferably 1.0 to 2.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the dimethicones.
Amodimethicones have a similar molecular structure as dimethicones, siloxane units arranged in a linear way. But a considerable part of the methyl residues is substituted by residues containing a nitrogen atom or an amine residue.
According to the invention, the amodimethicones are preferably amodimethicones available as 8500 Conditioning Agent, 2-8566 Amino Fluid or AP-8087 Fluid from DOW CORNING or SC-100 (SOFTCARE 100) from Shanghai Huanqiu Industrial Development Co., Ltd. or WACKER-BELSIL ADM 6058 CN from Wacker Chemicals Silicones (ZJG) .
The amodimethicones are used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 2.0 % by weight, even more preferred 0.25 to 1.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the silicones.
Cationic polymers are further type of conditioning components. The cationic polymer can be of natural origin or synthetic origin, and can be  selected from the group consisting of cationic polysaccharide, vinyl monomer copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, cation modified protein, etc.
The cationic polymers of natural origin can be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents are introduced which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair conditioning compositions. An example of the modified guar molecules is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Cationic polymers derived from cellulose can also be used in the present invention. Similar to the case of guar, the substituents introduced to cellulose allow the cellulose molecule to have cationic qualities. An example is polyquaternium 10 (e.g. JR
Figure PCTCN2016077962-appb-000001
obtained from Amerchol company) , which is also called cellulose 2- (2-hydroxy-3 (trimethylammonio) propoxy) ethyl ether chloride.
It is also possible to use cationic polymers of synthetic origin in the present invention. An example is polyquaternium 74. Polyquaternium 74 is an acrylic /methacrylamidepropyldimethylammonium chloride /hydroxypropyltrimethyl-ammonium copolymer.
If cationic polymers are used the amounts of cationic polymers are from 0.001 to 1.5 % by weight, preferably 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the cationic polymers.
The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention preferably contain humectants. Humectants are hygroscopic substances  which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function. Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey. Preferred humectants are lactic acid and propylene glycol.
One or more humectants can be used according to the present invention. However it is preferred that at least two different humectants are present in the compositions according to the invention. The one or more humectant (s) is/are used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the humectant.
The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can optionally comprise pearlescent agents. Examples for pearlescent agents are ethylene glycol mono-stearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof.
The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can comprise preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations. However, it is preferred to use Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The preferred preservatives can be used alone or in combination. The total amount of preservative, referring as well to one single preservative as  to a combination of preservatives, is from 0.0001 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.
The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can comprise colorants which have to be water soluble. Examples for suitable water soluble colorants are CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 14700. The preferred colorant for the present invention is CI 19140.
Preparation method
The composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair conditioning composition. The hair conditioning compositions can be prepared as oil in water emulsionswhich are directly applied to hair. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.
Specifically, compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are preferably produced with the following procedure (Table 1 shows the detailed composition of the Examples, and Table 3 shows the corresponding trade name and INCI of the compounds) :
For manufacturing a batch of one of the compositions mentioned in the present invention, an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer, e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.
Heat phase A to 75~78℃ in a beaker until all components are dissolved.
Heat phase B to~50℃ in a beaker, stir 20 minutes constantly.
Add phase B to phase A slowly with stirring, stir at 150-250rpm until 50-60℃.
Add phases C and D slowly with stirring, until all components are dissolved and homogeneous.
Finally add phase E slowly with stirring, stir and let the batch cool down to room temperature.
Test method
In order to show that the addition of lotus flower oil into the inventive compositions has an effect and contributes to the solution of the above-mentioned problem, a half side test is conducted. The test is carried out through the following procedure:
Compositions comprising lotus flower oil at different concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight (Examples 1-6) are prepared as samples of the present invention, and a blank shampoo is used as the comparative sample (Comparative Example) , which does not comprise lotus flower oil at all. Respective test samples are filled in syringes, not revealing any details of the composition therein. Depending on the length of the hair, the sample use amount will be 3-5 ml.
A trained hairdresser starts with an initial assessment of the subject’s hair to be treated by evaluating and recording the condition of the subject’s hair.
Wash the subject’s hair with base blank shampoo.
After that, separate the hair of the subject from the middle of head, and clip them up.
Release one clip, wet the hair, put the same amount conditioner sample into the hand, spread the sample on the half side hair, and evaluate “spreadability” .
Stoke 30 seconds or 60 seconds; evaluate parameters such as richness and slipperiness.
Rinse the hair; assess the detangling (3-5 seconds) and gliding.
After rinse for 40 seconds, assess the gliding ability, rinse out ability and record the final time.
Clip this side hair; repeat the process to wash the other side. After finished, wet the both side hair again, cover the hair up with a towel.
After toweling the hair to remove the spare water, comb the hair with wide tooth comb, assess the wet detangling. Then comb it with fine-tooth comb, assess the wet combability.
Assess the wet gliding, anti-roughness on hair-ends.
Assess the both side whether the assessed characteristics still exist on wet hair. If not, wet hair again.
After 5 minutes, assess the hair moisture and give a general comment on both side.
Blew the hair, assess the parameter “easy to manage the hair” .
Comb the hair with fine tooth comb, and assess the dry combability, then the dry gliding, anti-roughness on hair-ends, “not weight down” effect, anti-static effect, and the hair gloss.
Assess dry hair on both two sides and check whether the dry hair fits the evaluation; finally give a general comment on both sides.
The evaluation is done based on a 10-point system, “1 point” corresponds to “bad” , and “10 points” corresponds to “good” . A value of 5 points is a medium value, corresponding to sufficient qualities. The values of 9 to 6 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient. Correspondingly, the values of 4 to  2 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.
The test and evaluation results are shown in Table 2, wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample.
Figure PCTCN2016077962-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2016077962-appb-000003
Table 3: Trade name and INCI of the compounds
Figure PCTCN2016077962-appb-000004
It can be clearly seen from Table 2 that the addition of lotus flower oil to the composition has multiple effects. It is obvious that the effect is depending on the concentration of lotus flower oil in the respective compositions. Furthermore there are differences concerning the properties of wet and dry hair. A positive influence of lotus flower oil on wet hair becomes evident only at higher concentrations. In contrast, the positive influence of lotus flower oil on dry hair mainly becomes evident in a concentration range of 0.1 to 1.0 % by weight.
In detail, an amount of 2.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil in the respective composition leads to slightly improved results regarding combability, gliding and softness of wet hair.
Referring to dry hair, 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil in the respective composition leads to a noticeable improvement in the range of 11 to 15 % concerning combability, gliding and softness in comparison to hair treated with compositions containing no lotus flower oil. The flowing and the moisture content of hair in a dry condition is evaluated best after the application of compositions containing 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil, too. The improvement accounts for 13 % referring to moisture content and 26 % concerning the flowing of hair. The evaluation of the condition of dry hair refers to heaviness. A low value means the hair feels like somewhat too thick, it looks slumping down or even oily. A higher value means the anti-static ability is somewhat bad, it looks too fluffy. The ideal value is between 5-7; most preferably is between 5.5-6. The composition containing 0.5 % by weight of lotus flower oil leads to the best performance in dry hair heaviness.
The above examples of the present invention are provided only for  illustrative purposes, and are not intended to limit the invention in any aspect. One skilled in the art should know that, changes and modifications may be carried out to technical solutions of the present invention within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims (36)

  1. A composition for conditioning hair, comprising:
    -at least one cationic surfactant and/or at least one nonionic surfactant with cationic functionality,
    -at least one fatty alcohol and/or at least one emollient,
    -lotus flower oil in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
    -optionally at least one cationic polymer and/or further auxiliary components.
  2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that lotus flower oil is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that lotus flower oil is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 6.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprises auxiliary components selected from at least one humectant, at least one preservative, at least one pearlescent agent and/or at least one colorant, and the composition comprises balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100% by weight.
  5. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of 1.0 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  6. The composition according to claim5, characterized in that the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of 2.5 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the alkyl residue of the at least one fatty alcohol contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the alkyl residue of the at least one fatty alcohol contains 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
  9. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  10. The composition according to claim9, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is quaternary ammonium salt.
  12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the nitrogen atom of the quaternary ammonium salt is connected with three methyl substituents and one alkyl substituent containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms.
  13. The composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the alkyl substituent contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  14. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is behentrimonium chloride.
  15. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant with cationic functionality is present in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  16. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the at least one nonionic surfactant with cationic functionality is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  17. The composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant with cationic functionality is behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
  18. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one emollient is at least one silicone.
  19. The composition according to claim 18, characterized in that theat least one silicone is at least one dimethicone and/or at least one amodimethicone.
  20. The composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the at least one dimethicones is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  21. The composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the  at least one dimethicones is present in an amount of 0.75% to 3.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  22. The composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the at least one dimethicones is present in an amount of 1.0 to 2.5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  23. The composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the at least one amodimethicone is present in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  24. The composition according to claim 23, characterized in that the at least one amodimethicone is present in an amount of 0.2 to 2.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  25. The composition according to claim 24, characterized in that the at least one amodimethicone is present in an amount 0.25 to 1.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  26. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic polymer comprises a cationic polymer of natural origin and/or a cationic polymer of synthetic origin.
  27. The composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the cationic polymer of natural origin is a derivative of guar or cellulose.
  28. The composition according to claim 27, characterized in that the guar derivative is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  29. The composition according to claim 27, characterized in that the  cellulose derivative is Polyquaternium-10.
  30. The composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the cationic polymer of synthetic origin is Polyquaternium-74.
  31. The composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the cationic polymer comprises mixtures of polymers of natural and synthetic origin.
  32. The composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the cationic polymer is present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  33. The composition according to claim 32, characterized in that the cationic polymer is present in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  34. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is an oil in water emulsion.
  35. Use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 34 to improve the combability, gliding and softness of dry hair.
  36. Use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 34 to improve the volume and body of dry hair.
PCT/CN2016/077962 2015-09-01 2016-03-31 A hair conditioning composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof WO2017036134A1 (en)

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