WO2023159478A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials and mask containing the same - Google Patents

Composition for caring for keratin materials and mask containing the same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023159478A1
WO2023159478A1 PCT/CN2022/077961 CN2022077961W WO2023159478A1 WO 2023159478 A1 WO2023159478 A1 WO 2023159478A1 CN 2022077961 W CN2022077961 W CN 2022077961W WO 2023159478 A1 WO2023159478 A1 WO 2023159478A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
sodium
acid
mask
alginate
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PCT/CN2022/077961
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Mingxuan MA
Changjian HOU
Zhenxi LEE
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2022/077961 priority Critical patent/WO2023159478A1/en
Priority to FR2203030A priority patent/FR3133016A1/en
Publication of WO2023159478A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023159478A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212Face masks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and mask containing the some.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • Skin aging is part of the aging process of human body, which not only relates to the age itself, but also closely relates to external factors, such as sunlight exposure.
  • the light induced skin aging ( “light-aging” ) is mainly caused by sunlight irradiation, and as depletion of the ozone layer is aggravating, the light-aging of the skin becomes more and more serious, which affects the appearance of the skin.
  • Extracts of herbal medical materials generally comprises many active ingredients, such as saponins, flavonoids, and alkaloids, many of which ingredients have various skin-care functions.
  • Cosmetic products based on herbal ingredients have thousands of years of history in China. Particularly, nowadays, people prefer natural substances rather than chemically synthesized substances. Therefore, cosmetic products containing herbal ingredients, for example, acidic fermentation extract, are getting more popular.
  • the composition In order to be commercially acceptable, the composition must be stable for a certain period of time. No matter how efficacious a product is, the product will not be commercially acceptable if it separates or otherwise deteriorates under normal shipping and storage conditions prior to sale.
  • compositions for caring for keratin materials comprising an acidic fermentation extract, which is stable and suitable for a mask using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
  • composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • composition according to the present invention is stable and suitable for a mask, especially those using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
  • composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 14-65 UD, as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm, and has a jelly like texture.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic product.
  • composition according to the present invention can deliver a light and fresh sensory.
  • the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
  • Fig. 1 shows the rheological plot of composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1, wherein square lines indicate the storage modulus; triangle lines indicate the loss modulus.
  • Fig. 2 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 1 under different conditions, A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
  • Fig. 3 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 2 under different conditions, A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
  • keratin material is intended to cover the skin. Facial skin and eye skin are most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • stable means that the composition does not show any obvious change in appearance and smell as well as flowing behavior for at least 2 months.
  • composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:
  • composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acidic fermentation extract.
  • acidic fermentation extract mention can be made of inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, thermus thermophillus ferment, lactococcus ferment, vitreoscilla ferment, lactobacillus ferment, and combinations thereof.
  • the acidic fermentation extract is selected from inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium.
  • Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium may be made according to the process set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362.
  • the Bifidobacterium may originate from a variety of species. Preferably the species are those that confer the “probiotic” designation. Most preferred is where the species is Bifidobacterium longum.
  • Bifidobacterium More specific examples of Bifidobacterium are referred to by their INCI names, e.g. Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, and so on. Also suitable are Bifida extract, which is an extract obtained from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium longum, and Bifida ferment filtrate which is a filtrate of the product obtained by fermentation of Bifida.
  • the inactivated culture of Bifidobacterium is selected from Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, Bifida extract, Bifida ferment filtrate, and a combination thereof.
  • Bifida ferment lysate which is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under the CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
  • Bifida ferment lysate is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under the CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
  • Such a lysate is in particular sold under the name Repair Complex by the company K. Richter GmbH.
  • Bifida ferment lysate contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disintegrated.
  • Bifida ferment lysate contains acetic acid and/or lactic acid.
  • the acidic fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid.
  • Suitable neutralized polyacrylic acids for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.
  • the neutralized polyacrylic acids can be partially or totally neutralized.
  • the acrylic monomers of the neutralized polyacrylic acids according to the invention may be neutralized to a proportion of from 5%to 100%.
  • Examples thereof include the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.
  • the most preferred neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
  • Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.
  • hydrophilic polymer means a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.
  • said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate is designed by CAS number 9003-04-7.
  • Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed by Sigma-Aldrich, or COSMEDIA SP sold by the company BASF.
  • Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia contains 90%solids and 10%water.
  • the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.3-7.0.
  • the composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3.
  • the composition may comprise a pH adjusting agent in order to have a suitable pH.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, monosodium dibasic phosphate, gluconic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, trisodium citrate, acetic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sodium phosphate, sodium gluconate, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate potassium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from acetic acid, sodium acetate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, citric acid, sodium citrate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can react with the alginate for jellification.
  • sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can not only react with the alginate, but also behave as a pH agent.
  • composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents, for instance C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents for instance C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, and glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol.
  • the at least one C2-C8 polyol is selected from propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
  • the aqueous phase comprises propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerin.
  • the at least one C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 8 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may represent in amount ranging from 30 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 97 wt. %, more preferably from 60 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises no oily phase.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprises one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
  • enzymes for example, flavonoids; additional antiaging agents; humetants (for example, biosaccharide gum-1, mannose, sodium hyaluronate) ; tensioning agents; soothing agents; additional ferments (for example, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment) , and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , additional thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose) , and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , additional thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose)
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof
  • composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble mask tissue to form a mask.
  • the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • water insoluble means that the mask tissue is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
  • the skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask tissue and the weight ratio of the mask tissue used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
  • the mask tissue can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
  • the mask tissue is an alginate tissue.
  • Alginate tissues are known in the art and are described in WO2020001069A1.
  • an alginate tissue may comprise a water insoluble alginate chosen from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 100 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the tissue.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the mask tissue may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer tissue is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other.
  • the multilayer tissue can be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
  • the mask tissue can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
  • the mask tissue is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired.
  • the mask tissue is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
  • composition according to the present invention can be produced by firstly forming the aqueous phase, then adjusting the pH to 5.0-6.3, followed by adding the neutralized polyacrylic acid and then acidic fermentation extract, lastly adjusting the pH to 5.3-7.0.
  • composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for keratin materials, and especially human skin.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for anti-aging.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition or the mask as defined above to the keratin materials.
  • the keratin materials are facial skin and/or eye skin.
  • compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :
  • composition of invention example 1 for illustration:
  • compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
  • the viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • a sample If a sample can pass each of the individual tests, it passes the static stability test. If a sample fails at any time point under any temperature during the test, the sample is evaluated as “fail the static stability test” .
  • the oscillation mode of rheometer was used in the test and the spinner is CP-50.
  • the frequency (f) was set to be from 1Hz to 10 Hz. 2-3 drops of a sample were applied to the testing plate of the rheometer. Then the testing temperature was set to be 45°C or room temperature and maintained for 1 minute. The storage modulus and the loss modulus of the sample were recorded.
  • Fig. 1 demonstrates the rheology behaviour of each composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1.
  • composition of invention example is more stable.

Abstract

A composition for caring for keratin materials comprises in an aqueous phase: (i) at least one acidic fermentation extract; and (ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid, wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm. A cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprises the step of applying the composition or the mask on the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS AND MASK CONTAINING THE SAME TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and mask containing the some. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
BACKGROUND ART
Skin aging is part of the aging process of human body, which not only relates to the age itself, but also closely relates to external factors, such as sunlight exposure. The light induced skin aging ( “light-aging” ) is mainly caused by sunlight irradiation, and as depletion of the ozone layer is aggravating, the light-aging of the skin becomes more and more serious, which affects the appearance of the skin.
Extracts of herbal medical materials generally comprises many active ingredients, such as saponins, flavonoids, and alkaloids, many of which ingredients have various skin-care functions. Cosmetic products based on herbal ingredients have thousands of years of history in China. Particularly, nowadays, people prefer natural substances rather than chemically synthesized substances. Therefore, cosmetic products containing herbal ingredients, for example, acidic fermentation extract, are getting more popular.
There are many challenges in formulating cosmetic compositions. As far as masks (facial masks and eye masks) are considered, in order to have better impregnation into a mask tissue, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition should be relatively low. However, the polymer contained in the cosmetic composition with a relatively low viscosity will tend to be unstable and precipitate from the composition.
In addition, for masks using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue, it is necessary to comprise cationic salts or ions for the cosmetic composition impregnated into the tissue, which might also reduce the stability of the cosmetic composition.
In order to be commercially acceptable, the composition must be stable for a certain period of time. No matter how efficacious a product is, the product will not be commercially acceptable if it separates or otherwise deteriorates under normal shipping and storage conditions prior to sale.
Thus, there is a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising an acidic fermentation extract, which is stable and suitable for a mask using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
(i) at least one acidic fermentation extract; and
(ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid,
wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
The composition according to the present invention is stable and suitable for a mask, especially those using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
The composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 14-65 UD, as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm, and has a jelly like texture.
The composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic product.
The composition according to the present invention can deliver a light and fresh sensory.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and
B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the mask tissue.
According to a third aspect, the present invention also provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:
Fig. 1 shows the rheological plot of composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1, wherein square lines indicate the storage modulus; triangle lines indicate the loss modulus.
Fig. 2 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 1 under different conditions, A: 37℃ for 2 months, B: 45℃ for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
Fig. 3 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 2 under different conditions, A: 37℃ for 2 months, B: 45℃ for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…” .
As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover the skin. Facial skin and eye skin are most particularly considered according to the present invention.
As used herein, “stable” means that the composition does not show any obvious change in appearance and smell as well as flowing behavior for at least 2 months.
The composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:
(i) at least one acidic fermentation extract; and
(ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid,
wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acidic fermentation extract.
As an example of acidic fermentation extract, mention can be made of inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, thermus thermophillus ferment, lactococcus ferment, vitreoscilla ferment, lactobacillus ferment, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, the acidic fermentation extract is selected from inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium.
Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium may be made according to the process set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362.
The Bifidobacterium may originate from a variety of species. Preferably the species are those that confer the “probiotic” designation. Most preferred is where the species is Bifidobacterium longum.
More specific examples of Bifidobacterium are referred to by their INCI names, e.g. Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, and so on. Also suitable are Bifida extract, which is an extract obtained from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium longum, and Bifida ferment filtrate which is a filtrate of the product obtained by fermentation of Bifida.
Thus, preferably, the inactivated culture of Bifidobacterium is selected from Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, Bifida extract, Bifida ferment filtrate, and a combination thereof.
Most preferred is Bifida ferment lysate, which is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under  the CAS No.: 96507-89-0. Such a lysate is in particular sold under the name Repair Complex
Figure PCTCN2022077961-appb-000001
by the company K. Richter GmbH.
Bifida ferment lysate contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disintegrated. Generally, Bifida ferment lysate contains acetic acid and/or lactic acid.
Advantageously, the acidic fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Neutralized polyacrylic acid
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid.
Suitable neutralized polyacrylic acids for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.
The neutralized polyacrylic acids can be partially or totally neutralized.
The acrylic monomers of the neutralized polyacrylic acids according to the invention may be neutralized to a proportion of from 5%to 100%.
Examples thereof include the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.
The most preferred neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.
According to the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.
In one preferred embodiment, said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate is designed by CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed by Sigma-Aldrich, or COSMEDIA SP sold by the company BASF.
Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia
Figure PCTCN2022077961-appb-000002
contains 90%solids and 10%water.
Advantageously, the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
PH adjusting agent
According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention  has a pH of 5.3-7.0.
Preferably, the composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3.
The composition may comprise a pH adjusting agent in order to have a suitable pH.
The pH adjusting agent is selected from citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, monosodium dibasic phosphate, gluconic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, trisodium citrate, acetic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sodium phosphate, sodium gluconate, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate potassium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and a combination thereof.
Preferably, the pH adjusting agent is selected from acetic acid, sodium acetate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, citric acid, sodium citrate, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof.
When the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition is impregnated into an alginate tissue to form a mask, a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can react with the alginate for jellification. In other words, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can not only react with the alginate, but also behave as a pH agent.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents, for instance C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, and glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol.
Preferably, the at least one C2-C8 polyol is selected from propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
More preferably, the aqueous phase comprises propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerin.
Advantageously, the at least one C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 8 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may represent in amount ranging from 30 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 97 wt. %, more preferably from 60 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises no oily phase.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
Depend on the final purpose, the composition according to the present invention can comprises one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
As cosmetic active ingredients that may be used in the composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; additional antiaging agents; humetants (for example, biosaccharide gum-1, mannose, sodium hyaluronate) ; tensioning agents; soothing agents; additional ferments (for example, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment) , and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , additional thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose) , and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present  invention.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.1 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %of Bifida ferment lysate;
(ii) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %, of sodium polyacrylate; and
(iii) a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof,
wherein the composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
The composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble mask tissue to form a mask.
According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and
B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the mask tissue.
Water insoluble mask tissues
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the mask tissue is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
The skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask tissue and the weight ratio of the mask tissue used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
The mask tissue can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
In some embodiments, the mask tissue is an alginate tissue.
Alginate tissues are known in the art and are described in WO2020001069A1.
For example, an alginate tissue may comprise a water insoluble alginate chosen  from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 100 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the tissue.
Preferably, when the mask tissue is an alginate tissue, the composition according to the present invention comprises a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The mask tissue may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer tissue is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other. The multilayer tissue can be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
The mask tissue can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
The mask tissue is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the mask tissue is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
Preparation and use
The composition according to the present invention can be produced by firstly forming the aqueous phase, then adjusting the pH to 5.0-6.3, followed by adding the neutralized polyacrylic acid and then acidic fermentation extract, lastly adjusting the pH to 5.3-7.0.
The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for keratin materials, and especially human skin.
In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used for anti-aging.
According to the third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition or the mask as defined above to the keratin materials.
In particular, the keratin materials are facial skin and/or eye skin.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.
Examples
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022077961-appb-000003
Invention Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3
Compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :
Table 2
Components IE. 1 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 IE. 2
Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Citric acid 0 0.203 0.203 0.23 0
Sodium polyacrylate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Xanthan gum 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12
Sodium citrate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.35
Bifida ferment lysate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0 0.05 0.05 0.05 0
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0 0 0.2 0.2 0
Sodium phytate 0 0.2 0 0 0
pH 6.0 5.1 5.1 5.0 6.3
Preparation procedure:
Each composition was prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 for illustration:
1) . adding water, and glycerin, to a blender, heating to 70℃ and stirring to fully mix the components above;
2) . adding sodium citrate to the blender to adjust the pH to approximately 5.0-6.3; adding sodium polyacrylate to the blender and stirring for 15-20 minutes to obtain a homogeneous solution while maintaining the temperature to be 70℃;
3) . adding xanthan gum to the blender with stirring; cooling down the system to room temperature; then adding Bifida Ferment Lysate, with stirring; and
4) . adjusting the pH to approximately 6.0 with sodium citrate to obtain the composition.
Evaluation:
The compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
Viscosity
The viscosity was measured at 25℃, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
Stability
About 100 ml of samples were stored in transparent glass bottles separately, and then kept at different temperatures, including 4℃, room temperature (RT) , 37℃, 45℃and 55℃, for different period of time, consisting of initial time (T0) , 5 days, 10 days, 1 month and 2 months. The appearance of the samples was observed at each time point. The sample was evaluated to pass the test when it was uniform in color and smell, with no delamination, and no apparent change in flowing behaviour.
If a sample can pass each of the individual tests, it passes the static stability test. If a sample fails at any time point under any temperature during the test, the sample is evaluated as “fail the static stability test” .
The results for viscosity and stability were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
Properties IE. 1 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 IE. 2
Viscosity (UD) 20 14 15 14 20
Stability Pass Fail Fail Fail Pass
Rheology test
The oscillation mode of rheometer was used in the test and the spinner is CP-50. The frequency (f) was set to be from 1Hz to 10 Hz. 2-3 drops of a sample were applied to the testing plate of the rheometer. Then the testing temperature was set to be 45℃ or room temperature and maintained for 1 minute. The storage modulus and the loss modulus of the sample were recorded.
Fig. 1 demonstrates the rheology behaviour of each composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1.
If the plot obtained shows a comparatively larger initial point, no or red-shifted intersection point of the two modulus, and a better linear behaviour, then the sample has a more robust structure and thus, less risk having the stability issue.
It can be seen from Fig. 1, composition of invention example is more stable.

Claims (15)

  1. A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
    (i) at least one acidic fermentation extract; and
    (ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid,
    wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  2. Composition of claim 1, wherein the acidic fermentation extract is inactivated culture of Bifidobacterium, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, thermus thermophillus ferment, lactococcus ferment, vitreoscilla ferment, lactobacillus ferment, and combinations thereof, preferably the acidic fermentation extract is selected from Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, Bifida extract, Bifida ferment filtrate, and a combination thereof, preferably, the inactivated culture of Bifidobacterium is Bifida ferment lysate.
  3. Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the acidic fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. Composition of any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is selected from metal salts of polyacrylic acid, preferably, the neutralized polyacrylic acid is selected from sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid, more preferably, the neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
  5. Composition of any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the acrylic monomer of the neutralized polyacrylic acid is neutralized to a proportion of from 5%to 100%.
  6. Composition of any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a pH adjusting agent selected from citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, monosodium dibasic phosphate, gluconic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, trisodium citrate, acetic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sodium phosphate, sodium gluconate, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate potassium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium dihydrogen  phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and a combination thereof, preferably, the pH adjusting agents is selected from acetic acid, sodium acetate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, citric acid, sodium citrate, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the pH adjusting agents is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof.
  8. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aqueous phase comprieses at least one of water, monoalcohols and at least one C2-C8 polyol.
  9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the at least one C2-C8 polyol is selected from propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
  10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the at least one C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 8 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, comprising no oily phase.
  12. Composition according to claim 1 comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    (i) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of Bifida ferment lysate;
    (ii) from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate; and
    (iii) apH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof,
    wherein the composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  13. A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
    A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and
    B) a composition according to any of claims 1-12 impregnated into the mask tissue.
  14. Mask according to claim 13, wherein the water insoluble mask tissue is an alginate tissue comprising a water insoluble alginate chosen from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 100 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the tissue.
  15. A cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition of any of claims 1 to 12 or the mask of claim 13 or 14 on the keratin materials.
PCT/CN2022/077961 2022-02-25 2022-02-25 Composition for caring for keratin materials and mask containing the same WO2023159478A1 (en)

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FR2203030A FR3133016A1 (en) 2022-02-25 2022-04-04 care composition for keratinous materials and mask containing the same

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US20140161855A1 (en) * 2011-07-14 2014-06-12 Monsanto Technology LLC a corporation Cosmetic with enhanced collagen i synthesis
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
US20160271264A1 (en) * 2015-03-20 2016-09-22 Elc Management Llc Optically-activated system for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections
US20180360702A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2018-12-20 L'oreal Composition based on an aqueous phase containing a dispersion of an anhydrous composite material
WO2020127577A1 (en) * 2018-12-21 2020-06-25 L V M H Recherche Pro-vitamin effect of an extract of a probiotic microorganism

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DE3024318A1 (en) 1980-06-27 1982-01-28 Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Karl Richter GmbH, 1000 Berlin COSMETIC AGENTS
CN106421867A (en) * 2016-07-20 2017-02-22 国家纳米科学中心 Antibacterial calcium alginate dressing containing nanogold
WO2020001069A1 (en) 2018-06-28 2020-01-02 L'oreal Kit for caring for the skin
EA202190066A1 (en) * 2018-07-04 2021-06-07 Кхр. Хансен А/С AQUATIC COMPOSITIONS FOR LOCAL USE CONTAINING VIABLE PROBIOTIC BACTERIA
CN108904432A (en) * 2018-08-02 2018-11-30 广州航美化妆品有限公司 A kind of multiple-effect facial mask with tender skin, anti-acne effect

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140161855A1 (en) * 2011-07-14 2014-06-12 Monsanto Technology LLC a corporation Cosmetic with enhanced collagen i synthesis
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
US20160271264A1 (en) * 2015-03-20 2016-09-22 Elc Management Llc Optically-activated system for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections
US20180360702A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2018-12-20 L'oreal Composition based on an aqueous phase containing a dispersion of an anhydrous composite material
WO2020127577A1 (en) * 2018-12-21 2020-06-25 L V M H Recherche Pro-vitamin effect of an extract of a probiotic microorganism

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