WO2023122849A1 - Method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to devise scaled garments with a fit matching the body type of each user - Google Patents
Method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to devise scaled garments with a fit matching the body type of each user Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023122849A1 WO2023122849A1 PCT/CL2022/050147 CL2022050147W WO2023122849A1 WO 2023122849 A1 WO2023122849 A1 WO 2023122849A1 CL 2022050147 W CL2022050147 W CL 2022050147W WO 2023122849 A1 WO2023122849 A1 WO 2023122849A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- bust
- measurements
- hip
- waist
- scaling
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
- A41H1/02—Devices for taking measurements on the human body
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
- A41H1/02—Devices for taking measurements on the human body
- A41H1/04—Stands for taking measurements
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/04—Making patterns by modelling on the human body
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/06—Patterns on paper
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61H—PHYSICAL THERAPY APPARATUS, e.g. DEVICES FOR LOCATING OR STIMULATING REFLEX POINTS IN THE BODY; ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION; MASSAGE; BATHING DEVICES FOR SPECIAL THERAPEUTIC OR HYGIENIC PURPOSES OR SPECIFIC PARTS OF THE BODY
- A61H3/00—Appliances for aiding patients or disabled persons to walk about
Definitions
- the present invention refers to the creation of patterns for making garments.
- it refers to a method for reproducing scaled patterns that makes it possible to design garments adapted to particular dimensions of the body from reduced-scale models, granting a personalized fit.
- Garment fit patterns are supplied in various selected overall sizes, the wearer selects the size that best fits or fits the entire body of the person for whom the garment is intended. While the general stature of the individual will accommodate a one size pattern, certain major fit and structural areas of the body may not fit properly within the selected single size pattern. For example, the size of the bust and the size of the waist may not be in the proportion provided by a single pattern size. In addition, the individual's posture influences the fit of the garment in certain parts of the figure. As a result, one or more areas of fit typically do not accurately fit the garment formed from the pattern of a selected size.
- the prior art teaches methods and apparatus for altering clothing patterns to accommodate variations in an individual figure from the average figures for which the patterns are made.
- the present invention relates to a method for scaling garment patterns, the main objective of which is to conceive scaled garments, starting from any preconceived pattern, which achieves an improved fit consistent with the actual body type of each user.
- Another objective of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that ensures a correct way of taking the personalized measurements of each user.
- Another object of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that allows creating a modified base pattern from any pre-existing pattern according to the average measurements of a target user group.
- Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that is based on a modified pre-existing scaling tool that allows the method to be applied to a wider range of wearer sizes.
- the method of the invention in general, is based on measurement, pattern-making and transfer steps, where the measurement refers to the taking of real measurements by the end user, the pattern-making refers to the conformation of a basic miniature pattern defined with average measurements of a target user group that has common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics, and the transfer stage refers to the scaled drawing of the final pattern to full scale for cutting of the garment fabric.
- the method includes three general stages of measurement, pattern making and transfer of the pattern, where these three general stages are developed according to the following steps:
- the end user's body measurements are taken according to three contours, bust, waist and hip, but making clear differences between the front and back of the body, so that each contour is not taken as the measurement. of a simple circle, but takes into account the distribution of the contour.
- a marker is located, which can be a piece of adhesive tape with a central mark, although a simple piece of tape can serve in the same way;
- the markers are placed at specific points on the body that help to differentiate the front from the rear and at the same time help to better position the tape measure with which the measurements are taken.
- This tape measure may be a conventional tape of the type used in the clothing-making area.
- markers are placed in the areas of the flanks of the body, defining then, a marker for the center point of the right flank of the bust, one for the center of the right flank of the waist and one for the center of the right flank. of the hip, those that are placed aligned on the same imaginary longitudinal axis on the right side of the body; and in turn, a marker is defined for the center point of the left flank of the bust, of the center point of the left flank of waist and one from the center point of the left flank of the hip, which are placed aligned on an imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis of the body.
- a marker is placed at the tip of the right breast, a marker at the tip of the left breast, a marker in the center of the right flank at bust height, a marker in the center of the left flank at the height of the bust.
- the first two markers that are placed at the tip of each breast serve to indicate where the largest diameter of the bust contour is produced, which is desirable to identify so that the final designed garment has a good fit in said area.
- the markers that are placed on the flanks must be in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the line below the axillary area and at the same time, these markers must be aligned horizontally with the markers placed at the tip of each breast.
- the measurement of the front section of the bust, the rear section of the bust and the total contour of the bust is obtained, where the total contour of the bust is obtained by extending the tape measure all the way around, passing through the markers. flanks and sinus markers; the measurement of the front section of the bust is obtained by extending the tape measure from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank passing through the markers of the breasts; meanwhile, the measurement of the rear section of the bust is obtained, preferably, by subtracting the measurement of the front section of the bust from the measurement of the total contour of the bust;
- This way of obtaining the posterior section of the bust is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and ensure that it is being measured correctly in the markers attached to the body.
- a marker is placed in the center of the right flank and a marker is placed in the center of the left flank at the height of the narrowest area of the abdomen; they must be placed in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the extension of a longitudinal line that passes under the axillary area and at the same time, these markers must be aligned horizontally with each other.
- the measurement of the front waist section, the rear waist section and the complete waist contour are obtained; to obtain the complete contour is circled, with the tape measure, the waist around its entire perimeter making it pass through both markers on each flank; the measurement of the front waist section is obtained by extending the tape measure in front of the body from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank; meanwhile, the measurement of the rear waist section is preferably obtained by subtracting the measurement of the front section from the measurement of the total waist contour;
- This way of obtaining the posterior section of the waist is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and ensure that he is measuring correctly on the markers attached to the body.
- a marker is placed in the center of the right flank and one in the center of the left flank, both at the height of the most prominent area of the hips in a frontal view; and a third marker is placed in the posterior center between the buttocks, in the most projected area of the buttocks in a lateral view, which serves to visualize where the greatest posterior measurement of the hips occurs.
- the markers that are placed on the flanks must be in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the longitudinal line below the axillary area, and at the same time. Based on these markers, the measurement of the front section of the hips, the rear section of the hips and the total contour of the hips is obtained, where the total contour of the hips is obtained by extending the tape measure around the body passing through the markers on the flanks.
- the measurement of the front section of the hip is obtained by extending the tape measure from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank passing through the abdomen; meanwhile, the measurement of the posterior hip section is preferably obtained by subtracting the measurement of the front hip section from the measurement of the total hip contour; As in the other two sections of the bust and waist, this way of obtaining the posterior section of the hip is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and make sure you are measuring correctly on the markers attached to the body.
- two other markers are placed in the frontal area of the body, a marker in the central frontal point of the neck base and a marker in the central frontal point of the hip; both aligned in the center of the body, which allow a reference height to be measured for the conformation of the pattern to be scaled.
- the upper height point coincides with the lowest area of the neckline of the garment, while the lower height point coincides with the lower edge of the garment, so that these points in the front area are not always located. precisely at the birth of the clavicles or at the height of the hips.
- each set of measurements differentiated between bust, waist and hip measurements are recorded and indexed with a special differentiating symbol between each group of measurements.
- the bust measurements, the waist measurements and the hip measurements are indexed with a different geometric figure from each other; for example, bust measurements are indexed with a square, waist measurements are indexed with a circle, and hip measurements are indexed with a triangle.
- the bust measurements, waist measurements, and hip measurements are each indexed in a different color from one another.
- This differentiated identification of the different groups of measurements is especially useful in the following stages of the method, since the measurements are applied for the conformation of the miniature pattern and also for the final scaling in real size of the pattern.
- a basic miniature pattern is formed, as a master pattern, which is defined with average measurements of a target user group that has common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics.
- the average measurements of a target user group effectively refer to an average obtained from measuring a certain group, for example, people of a certain ethnic or age group who have common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics; This is done to achieve that the final result of the method really makes it possible to conceive garments with a better fit, a fact that is not achieved with garments made based on standardized bodies that do not consider the differences that can be observed between the different groups, by age or by characteristics. morphological.
- the average body of women of Asian origin are petite and short, compared, for example, to the average body of women of European or African origin.
- a first step is distinguished, in which a miniature pattern of the front and back of the garment to be scaled is drawn, taking into account an average of real body measurements of a target user group. , arriving at the pattern drawing of any size, small, medium or large, but considering the average measurements of the determined target user group.
- Said drawing of the miniature pattern comprises a contour that defines the outer limits and the inner cuts of the pattern, such as the cuts for making darts for adjusting the garment to the curvatures of the body.
- a mathematical constant is established between a real average measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the thumbnail pattern.
- said mathematical constant corresponds to the quotient between an average real measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the miniature pattern.
- the quotient is the actual average distance from the frontal base point of the neck to the frontal hip point of the target user group, divided by the same distance measured in the miniature pattern.
- This constant will be useful when determining some polar coordinates that will be used for the final layout of the scaled pattern.
- a reference point must be determined in the miniature pattern for plotting polar coordinates, which will allow the exact scaling of the miniature pattern taking as reference the average measurements of the target user group and the custom measurements of the end user.
- Said reference point can be identified with a cross, an exis letter or any symbol that contains a clearly identifiable point.
- strategic points must be established on the outline of the miniature pattern. Said strategic points are located in each one of the vertices of the straight sections of the contour of the miniature pattern and, at least one intermediate strategic point is located between the vertices of curved sections of the contour. These strategic points are the minimum points to determine the contour and it is these points that will be projected to scale to later join them and form the pattern scaled to real scale based on which the fabric is cut to form the garment.
- strategic points there are not only points that only mark meeting vertices between the sides or that mark the trajectory of a curve in the curved sections of the pattern, as happens in the sections of the armhole and in the curved necklines; but strategic points must also be established that help to locate and size interior elements of the pattern that are not part of the outline, as happens with the interior cuts for the making of adjustment darts; in the latter case, said strategic points are located on the contour of the miniature pattern by drawing a radius from the reference point marked with a cross and passing it through each of the vertices that make up said darts cut until each radius drawn intersects the contour line of the pattern.
- each strategic point established in the contour of the miniature pattern must be differentiated between points dependent on the bust measurement, points dependent on the waist measurement and points dependent on the hip measurement, indexing them with the same symbols.
- special measures adopted in the measurement step of the present method drawing the symbol at the outer end of the extent of the radius drawn from the reference point.
- the points dependent on the bust measurement are, normally, those contour points that are in the area above the waist marked on the miniature pattern;
- the points dependent on the waist measurement are, normally, those points placed on and below the waist line, but they are also all those strategic points that mark the position of the waist dart cuts, so that it is feasible to index with the waist measurement symbol to some strategic points that are above the waist line and also on the hip line.
- the points that depend on the hip measurement are, normally, those points placed below the waist line and that determine the width of the pattern on the lower edge.
- the value of the polar coordinates must be determined, for this the radial distance must be measured from the reference point to each of the strategic points located on the outline of the miniature pattern and said radial distance multiplied by the mathematical constant obtained in the previous stage.
- the miniature pattern is taken, front or back, with the values of the polar coordinates already determined and where the strategic points have been identified with different symbols in correlation with the measurement on which they depend, whether they depend on the bust, waist or hip; and said miniature pattern is transferred to a final substrate that can be a mold paper or the final fabric.
- the miniature pattern is placed near one corner of the piece of cloth or paper and attached with some temporary adhesive medium.
- a special flat scaler is used, based on the instrument used in the pattern making technique known as "gold cut”; this scaler includes a graduation of normal tape measure and two scale graduations equal to each other, but different from the normal scale, and that presents a small perforation for each scale graduation.
- the three graduations extend in print as longitudinal stripes next to each other, one on one side edge, one central, and one on an opposite side stripe.
- the strip on a side edge corresponds to the actual measurements of a tape measure and ranges from the number zero to fifteen; the central strip covers numbers from two to one hundred and thirty-eight, and the side strip covers numbers from zero to one hundred and forty, where the numbers of the central strip are spatially interspersed with those of the side strip, and where, the strip with Tape measure measurements begin with zero at the approximate height between number one hundred two and one hundred four of both scale graduations.
- the special flat scale can comprise an extension where the scale of the central band extends to number two hundred and eighty-two, and the scale of the side band extends to number two hundred and eighty; this allows the method to be applied to scale garments of more extreme sizes.
- a normal tape measure is attached to the scaler that allows the number of normal numbers to be extended.
- the special flat scaler is taken and the section measurement is placed on the scale graduations. front of the bust registered in the measurement stage;
- a fixing device such as a pin or thumbtack, is passed through its perforation, which acts as a turning axis, and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern that is fixed on the final substrate.
- a first polar line is drawn from the reference point, passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and said line extends in the same direction until it reaches the figure noted in the standard tape measure. Strategic point through which it is passing, thus locating the projected strategic point that is marked on the final substrate.
- the same procedure is repeated with the measurements of the front waist section, for which the measurement at the axis point set on the scale must be changed for the measurement of the front waist section and the lines corresponding to strategic points that have the symbol that represents waist measurements.
- the same procedure is repeated with the measurements of the front hip section, for which the measurement at the axis point set on the scale must be changed for the measurement of the front hip section and the lines corresponding to strategic points that have the symbol that represents hip measurements.
- these projected points on the final substrate are joined by replicating in real size the shape of the outline of the miniature pattern, where the sections straight sections between vertices are joined with a straight rule and curved sections between vertices are joined with truss-type rules.
- Figure 1 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the arrangement of the markers in the body is seen, according to a front and a rear view.
- Figure 2 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the measurements on the body are shown, according to a side view and a front view.
- Figure 3 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the arrangement of the markers in the body is shown, according to side views of the body.
- Figure 4 shows an exemplary diagram of step b) and step c) where the layout of the miniature pattern is shown.
- Figure 5 shows an exemplary diagram of step b), showing the determination of a mathematical constant, according to a first embodiment of the invention.
- Figure 6 shows an exemplary diagram of step d), to establish strategic points on the outline of a miniature pattern.
- Figure 7 shows an exemplary diagram of step d).
- Figure 8 shows an exemplary diagram of step e) to differentiate each strategic point.
- Figure 9 shows an exemplary diagram of step f) to determine the value of the polar coordinates.
- Figure 10 shows an exemplary diagram of step g) to transfer the miniature pattern to a final real scale.
- Figure 11 shows an exemplary isometric view of step g) using a special scaler.
- Figure 12 shows a front view of the special scaler.
- the present invention relates to a method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to design scaled garments with a better fit consistent with the body type of each user.
- the method includes general stages of measurement, pattern making and transfer, which are carried out through the following steps: a) measuring the human body
- markers are placed at specific points on the body, locating a marker at the tip of the right bust (1), a marker at the tip of the left bust (2), a marker in the center of the right flank (3) to the left bust height, one marker in the center of the left flank (4) at bust height, one marker in the center of the right flank at waist height (5), one marker in the center of the left flank at waist height waist (6), a marker in the center of the right flank at hip height (7), a marker in the center of the left flank at hip height (8), a marker in the rear center of the buttocks (9) at the height of hip markers, a marker of the neck base front center point (10) and a marker of the hip center front point (11).
- the different required measurements are obtained, which, as illustrated in FIG. 2, correspond to the measurement of the front section of the bust (20), the rear section of the bust (30), front waist (40), back waist (50), front hip (60), back hip (70), full bust (80), full waist (90), the full hip contour (100), the frontal height (110) of the trunk.
- the markers for the center points of the right flank of the bust (3), center of the right flank of the waist (5) and center of the right flank of the hip (7) are placed aligned in a same imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis (xd) of the body; and the markers for the center of the left flank (4) of the bust, center of the left flank of the waist (6) and center of the left flank of the hip (8) are placed aligned on an imaginary left lateral longitudinal axis (xi) of the body .
- the right bust point marker (1) and the left bust point marker (2) are placed at the highest point of each bust and serve to mark the horizontal position of the tape measure extended from the center marker. from the right flank (3) to the center marker of the left flank (4) when seeking to obtain the front bust section measurement (20).
- the posterior center marker between the buttocks (9) is placed in the most projected area of the buttocks.
- the neck base front central point marker (10) and the hip central front point (11) are placed on the same central longitudinal imaginary axis (y) of the body (FIG.l).
- Each set of measurements differentiated between bust, waist and hip measurements are recorded and indexed with a special differentiating symbol between each group of measurements, where the measurements of bust (20, 30), waist measurements (40, 50), and hip measurements (60,70), are indexed with a different geometric figure from each other.
- hip measurements (60, 70) are indexed with a triangle
- waist measurements (40, 50) are indexed with a circle
- bust measurements (20, 30) are indexed with a square.
- the measurements of the back sections of the bust (30), back of the waist (50) and back of the hip (70) are obtained by subtracting the respective front sections of the bust (20), waist (40) and hips (60), from the corresponding full contours of bust (80), waist (90) and hips (100).
- b) draw a miniature pattern
- the mathematical constant is the quotient between a real average measurement of a specific body part of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same body part represented in the thumbnail pattern.
- the quotient is the actual distance from the frontal base point of the neck (10) to the frontal hip point (11) of the target user group (shown in FIG. 5), divided by the same measured distance in the thumbnail pattern (200).
- a strategic point (400) is located on each of the vertices (202) of the sections lines (203) of the contour (201) and, at least, one intermediate strategic point (401) between the vertices (202) of curved sections (204) of the contour (201).
- the strategic points dependent on the measurements of the front section of the bust are indexed with a square
- the strategic points dependent on the measurement of the front waist section are indexed with a circle
- the strategic points depending on the measurement of the front hip section are indexed with a triangle.
- the miniature pattern (200) Transfer to real scale and on a definitive substrate (S), (referring to the illustration in FIG. 11), the miniature pattern (200) with the polar coordinates determined in step f), using a scaler special plane (500) that includes a normal graduation (501) and two graduations (502), (503) on the same scale but different from the normal scale (501), and that presents a small perforation (504) for each measure in scale graduations (502), (503) and to which Attach a normal tape measure (600).
- the miniature pattern (200) is arranged and fixed on a final substrate (S) which can be patterned paper or the final substrate (S) of the final fabric.
- the special flat scaler (500) is located, the section measurement of the bust, waist or hip registered in step a);
- a connector axis (700) is arranged in the perforation (504) of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point (300) of the miniature pattern (200).
- a polar line (302) is drawn from the reference point (300) and passing through a strategic point (400) with the special symbol that identifies the measurement and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure on the tape measure. noted at the strategic point through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point (400') on the final substrate (S).
- the measurement of the front section of the bust registered in stage a) is located on the special flat scaler; where a connecting axis is arranged in the perforation of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern (200);
- a first polar line is drawn from the reference point and passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure noted at the point on the tape measure. strategic through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point; and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the front waist section and the front hip section.
- the measurement of the rear bust section recorded in stage a) is located on the special flat scaler; where a connecting axis is arranged in the perforation of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern; A first polar line is drawn from the reference point and passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure noted at the point on the tape measure. strategic through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point; and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the posterior section of the waist and the posterior section of the hip.
- said projected strategic points (400') of the projected pattern (200') are joined both from the front and the back, replicating in real size the shape of the contour (201 ) of the thumbnail pattern (200), where the straight sections between vertices are joined with a straight rule and the curved sections between vertices are joined with truss-type rules.
- the special flat scaler (500) comprises three longitudinal stripes with printed metric scales, where the strip on a lateral edge corresponds to a normal scale (501); and the other two stripes, central (502) and lateral (503), have measurements of the same scale as each other, but different from the scale of the tape measure.
- the band with normal scale (501) covers from the number zero to fifteen; the central band (502) covers numbers from two to one hundred and thirty-eight, and the side band (503) covers numbers from zero to one hundred and forty, where the numbers in the central band are spatially interspersed with those in the side band, and where, the strip with normal scale (501) begins with zero at the approximate height between number one hundred two and one hundred four of both central (502) and lateral (503) scales.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Pain & Pain Management (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
- Rehabilitation Therapy (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Measurement Of The Respiration, Hearing Ability, Form, And Blood Characteristics Of Living Organisms (AREA)
- Calculators And Similar Devices (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to devise garments with a fit matching the body type of each user. The method comprises the following steps: a) measuring the human body according to differentiated bust, waist and hip sections, differentiated in turn into front and back sections, locating a number of markers; b) drawing a miniature pattern of the front and back of the garment and establishing a mathematical constant; c) determining, on the miniature pattern, a reference point for plotting polar coordinates; d) establishing strategic points on the outline of the miniature pattern; e) differentiating each strategic point by indexing them with the same special symbols adopted in step a); f) determining the value of the polar coordinates; and g) transferring the miniature pattern with the polar coordinates determined in step f) to full scale and on a definitive substrate, using a special flat scalimeter.
Description
MÉTODO PARA ESCALAR PATRONES DE PRENDA DE VESTIR, QUE PERMITE CONCEBIR PRENDAS DE VESTIR ESCALADAS CON UN CALCE CONCORDANTE CON EL TIPO DE CUERPO DE CADA USUARIO METHOD FOR SCALING CLOTHING PATTERNS, WHICH ALLOWS TO DESIGN SCALED GARMENTS WITH A FIT CONCORDING WITH THE BODY TYPE OF EACH USER
MEMORIA DESCRIPTIVA DESCRIPTIVE MEMORY
La presente invención se refiere a la creación de patrones para confeccionar prendas de vestir. En particular, se refiere a un método para reproducir patrones escalados que permite concebir prendas adaptadas a dimensiones particulares del cuerpo a partir de modelos a escala reducida, otorgando un calce personalizado. The present invention refers to the creation of patterns for making garments. In particular, it refers to a method for reproducing scaled patterns that makes it possible to design garments adapted to particular dimensions of the body from reduced-scale models, granting a personalized fit.
DESCRIPCIÓN DEL ESTADO DE LA TÉCNICA DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF THE ART
Es posible ver que individuos con cuerpos con medidas fuera de los estándares actuales en cuanto a tamaños y formas del cuerpo en la producción de prendas, son marginados en el consumo de prendas, y tienen que conformarse con un mal ajuste. Esto, porque los estándares de las tablas de tallas no corresponden a los datos de los cuerpos de una población en específico. It is possible to see that individuals with bodies measuring outside current standards in terms of body sizes and shapes in the production of garments, are marginalized in the consumption of garments, and have to settle for a poor fit. This is because the size chart standards do not correspond to the data of the bodies of a specific population.
El mundo de la industria textil, se ve sometido a constantes cambios por su dependencia a las tendencias de la moda; estas condiciones junto con la alta competitividad de ese mercado ha llevado a que la industrialización apunte a una producción rápida y de bajo costo, obligando principalmente a una estandarización de las tallas, dejando atrás los métodos tradicionales de confección a medida que permitían fabricar una prenda que además de poder ajustarse a la moda del momento, se ajustaba de acuerdo a los gustos personales y la forma del cuerpo para cada usuario. The world of the textile industry is subjected to constant changes due to its dependence on fashion trends; These conditions, together with the high competitiveness of this market, have led industrialization to aim at rapid and low-cost production, forcing mainly a standardization of sizes, leaving behind the traditional tailor-made methods that allowed the manufacture of a garment that In addition to being able to adjust to the fashion of the moment, it was adjusted according to personal tastes and the shape of the body for each user.
Esto ha provocado que a medida que los procesos de producción de prendas de vestir se fueron industrializando, se establecieron tallas estándares que se basan en una idea de cuerpo perfectamente proporcionado, que en la realidad suelen ser más bien escasos.
Existe un mercado dedicado a la confección a menor escala que apunta principalmente a la producción de prendas personalizadas, basándose en el uso de patrones de prendas ya concebidos, pero modificándolos para lograr un mejor calce de acuerdo a las medidas personales. Estos usuarios tienen conocimientos de confección y buscan hacerse su propia ropa para satisfacer necesidades que el mercado estandarizado de prendas no permite llenar, principalmente usando patrones ya concebidos que vienen de diferentes tallas, sin embargo, dichas tallas no siempre calzan bien cuando el cuerpo se sale de ciertos estándares. This has meant that as the garment production processes became industrialized, standard sizes were established that are based on an idea of a perfectly proportioned body, which in reality tend to be rather scarce. There is a market dedicated to clothing on a smaller scale that aims mainly at the production of personalized garments, based on the use of garment patterns already conceived, but modifying them to achieve a better fit according to personal measurements. These users have knowledge of tailoring and seek to make their own clothes to satisfy needs that the standardized garment market does not allow to fill, mainly using already conceived patterns that come in different sizes, however, these sizes do not always fit well when the body comes out of certain standards.
Los patrones de ajuste de la prenda se suministran en varias tallas generales seleccionadas, el usuario selecciona la talla que más se ajusta o se adapta a todo el cuerpo de la persona a la que está destinada la prenda. Si bien la estatura general del individuo se adapta a un patrón de un tamaño, es posible que ciertas áreas principales de ajuste y estructurales del cuerpo no se adapten adecuadamente al patrón de tamaño único seleccionado. Por ejemplo, el tamaño del busto y el tamaño de la cintura pueden no estar en la proporción proporcionada por un solo tamaño de patrón. Además, la postura del individuo influye en el ajuste de la prenda en determinadas partes de la figura. Como resultado, una o más áreas de ajuste normalmente no se ajustan con precisión a la prenda formada a partir del patrón de una talla seleccionada. Garment fit patterns are supplied in various selected overall sizes, the wearer selects the size that best fits or fits the entire body of the person for whom the garment is intended. While the general stature of the individual will accommodate a one size pattern, certain major fit and structural areas of the body may not fit properly within the selected single size pattern. For example, the size of the bust and the size of the waist may not be in the proportion provided by a single pattern size. In addition, the individual's posture influences the fit of the garment in certain parts of the figure. As a result, one or more areas of fit typically do not accurately fit the garment formed from the pattern of a selected size.
Los patrones disponibles comercialmente que se utilizan en el hogar para confeccionar ropa como vestidos y trajes están disponibles convencionalmente en una variedad de tamaños elegidos para adaptarse a combinaciones normales o medias de altura, peso, musculatura, estructura ósea y factores relacionados. Si el individuo para quien se confeccionará una prenda en particular a partir de un patrón disponible comercialmente tiene una figura inusual, entonces el patrón disponible comercialmente debe modificarse para tener en cuenta tales diferencias o la prenda hecha a partir del patrón disponible comercialmente debe modificarse para el mismo propósito. Commercially available patterns used in the home for making clothing such as dresses and suits are conventionally available in a variety of sizes chosen to fit normal to average combinations of height, weight, muscular build, bone structure, and related factors. If the individual for whom a particular garment is to be made from a commercially available pattern has an unusual figure, then the commercially available pattern must be modified to account for such differences or the garment made from the commercially available pattern must be modified to accommodate such differences. same purpose.
La técnica anterior enseña métodos y aparatos para alterar patrones de prendas de vestir para adaptarse a variaciones en una figura individual de las figuras promedio para las que se hacen los patrones. The prior art teaches methods and apparatus for altering clothing patterns to accommodate variations in an individual figure from the average figures for which the patterns are made.
Dentro de las soluciones para producir vestimenta de talla personalizada se conocen aquellas que cuentan con aparatos expansibles que se ajustan al cuerpo para tomar medidas específicas que luego se consideran para la elaboración de un patrón por medios tradicionales, ejemplo de ello se ve descrito en el documento de patente US3091861A de Ronald Methuen publicado el 04/06/1063. Among the solutions to produce personalized size clothing, there are known those that have expandable devices that adjust to the body to take specific measurements that are later considered for the elaboration of a pattern by traditional means, an example of which is described in the document US3091861A to Ronald Methuen published 06/04/1063.
También se conocen métodos para alterar o cambiar patrones de prendas que traen patrones extensibles, tal como lo descrito en la patente US4222170 de Kathleen Koontz, publicado el 16/09/1980.
Uno de los métodos para escalar patrones que es ampliamente conocido y desarrollado, es el método conocido como “Corte de Oro”, desarrollado por María Aloisia Lutterloh y derivado de varias patentes, entre ellas la original AT178739B publicada el 10/06/1954. En este documento se describe un aparato para llevar a cabo un escalamiento de patrones que tiene por objeto poder agrandar inmediatamente la plantilla con una forma adecuada con una cinta métrica y un punto de referencia en el que estaría la plantilla de corte, la cinta métrica está provista de 65 unidades de longitud y se le asignan divisiones que corresponden a una relación funcional del busto y la cadera. Methods for altering or changing patterns of garments that have stretchable patterns are also known, such as that described in patent US4222170 by Kathleen Koontz, published on 09/16/1980. One of the methods for scaling patterns that is widely known and developed is the method known as "Corte de Oro", developed by María Aloisia Lutterloh and derived from several patents, including the original AT178739B published on 06/10/1954. In this document an apparatus is described to carry out a scaling of patterns that has the purpose of being able to immediately enlarge the template with a suitable shape with a tape measure and a reference point where the cutting template would be, the tape measure is Provided with 65 units of length and assigned divisions that correspond to a functional relation of the bust and hip.
En este antecedente se asume que en el cuerpo humano todas las demás medidas pueden derivarse de las medidas del busto y la cadera, se basa en la toma de medidas de esos contornos completos. In this background it is assumed that in the human body all other measurements can be derived from bust and hip measurements, it is based on taking measurements of those full contours.
Las desventajas que reviste este método están dadas porque solo se basa en las medidas de busto y cadera, asumiendo que ambas son suficientes para lograr un buen calce, sin embargo, esto no es correcto toda vez que existen cuerpos con grandes diferencias entre cintura y cadera o busto, lo que no está recogido por este método; además, y quizá una de las principales desventajas que tiene, es que considera el cuerpo como un conjunto contornos regulares, sin diferenciar la forma que el contorno posee de acuerdo a los volúmenes propios del cuerpo; es un hecho que dos personas pueden tener igual medida de contorno de busto, sin embargo, en una de ellas la parte frontal del cuerpo abarca más de la mitad del contorno total y en otra, puede ser que la parte frontal y posterior sean equivalentes. The disadvantages of this method are given because it is only based on the bust and hip measurements, assuming that both are sufficient to achieve a good fit, however, this is not correct since there are bodies with large differences between waist and hip or bust, which is not collected by this method; Furthermore, and perhaps one of the main disadvantages that it has, is that it considers the body as a set of regular contours, without differentiating the shape that the contour has according to the body's own volumes; It is a fact that two people can have the same bust contour measurement, however, in one of them the front part of the body covers more than half of the total contour and in another, it may be that the front and rear part are equivalent.
Este error del arte previo, que no considera conjuntamente los contornos de busto, cintura y cadera, y a la vez, no considera una diferenciación entre la parte delantera y la parte trasera del cuerpo, hace que los métodos desarrollados hasta ahora no permitan un escalamiento y adaptación personalizada de los patrones existentes para lograr un calce realmente mejorado. This error of the prior art, which does not jointly consider the contours of the bust, waist and hip, and at the same time, does not consider a differentiation between the front part and the rear part of the body, means that the methods developed up to now do not allow a scaling and Custom adaptation of existing patterns for a truly improved fit.
DESCRIPCIÓN DE LA INVENCIÓN DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
La presente invención se relaciona con un método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, cuyo principal objetivo es concebir prendas de vestir escaladas, a partir de un patrón cualquiera preconcebido, que logra un calce mejorado concordante con el tipo de cuerpo real de cada usuario. The present invention relates to a method for scaling garment patterns, the main objective of which is to conceive scaled garments, starting from any preconceived pattern, which achieves an improved fit consistent with the actual body type of each user.
Otro objetivo de la invención es proveer un método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir que asegura un correcto modo de tomar las medidas personalizadas de cada usuario.
Otro objetivo de la invención es proveer un método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir que permite crear un patrón base modificado a partir de un patrón cualquiera pre existente de acuerdo a las medidas promedio de un grupo usuario objetivo. Another objective of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that ensures a correct way of taking the personalized measurements of each user. Another object of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that allows creating a modified base pattern from any pre-existing pattern according to the average measurements of a target user group.
Aún otro objetivo de la invención es proveer un método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir que se basa en una herramienta de escalamiento pre existente modificada que permite aplicar el método en un rango más amplio de tallas de usuarios. Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method for scaling garment patterns that is based on a modified pre-existing scaling tool that allows the method to be applied to a wider range of wearer sizes.
Para satisfacer dichos objetivos, el método de la invención, de modo general, se basa en etapas de medición, de patronaje y de traspaso, donde la medición se refiere a la toma de medidas reales del usuario final, el patronaje se refiere a la conformación de un patrón en miniatura base definido con medidas promedio de un grupo usuario objetivo que posee características antropomórfícas y antropométricas comunes, y la etapa de traspaso se refiere al trazado escalado del patrón final a escala real para corte de la tela de confección. In order to satisfy these objectives, the method of the invention, in general, is based on measurement, pattern-making and transfer steps, where the measurement refers to the taking of real measurements by the end user, the pattern-making refers to the conformation of a basic miniature pattern defined with average measurements of a target user group that has common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics, and the transfer stage refers to the scaled drawing of the final pattern to full scale for cutting of the garment fabric.
El método incluye tres etapas generales de medición, patronaje y traspaso del patrón, donde estas tres etapas generales se desarrollan de acuerdo a los siguientes pasos: The method includes three general stages of measurement, pattern making and transfer of the pattern, where these three general stages are developed according to the following steps:
I. etapa de medición I. measurement stage
En esta etapa se toman las medidas del cuerpo del usuario final de acuerdo a tres contornos, busto, cintura y cadera, pero haciendo claras diferencias entre la parte delantera y la parte posterior del cuerpo, de modo que cada contorno no es tomado como la medida de un simple círculo, sino que toma en cuenta la distribución del contorno. At this stage, the end user's body measurements are taken according to three contours, bust, waist and hip, but making clear differences between the front and back of the body, so that each contour is not taken as the measurement. of a simple circle, but takes into account the distribution of the contour.
Para ello se localiza un marcador, que puede ser una pieza de cinta adhesiva con una marca central, aunque un simple trozo de cinta puede servir del mismo modo; los marcadores se colocan en puntos específicos del cuerpo que ayudan a diferenciar el delantero del posterior y a la vez ayudan a posicionar de mejor manera la cinta métrica con la que se toman las medidas. Esta cinta métrica puede ser una cinta convencional del tipo utilizado en el área de confección de ropa. For this, a marker is located, which can be a piece of adhesive tape with a central mark, although a simple piece of tape can serve in the same way; The markers are placed at specific points on the body that help to differentiate the front from the rear and at the same time help to better position the tape measure with which the measurements are taken. This tape measure may be a conventional tape of the type used in the clothing-making area.
Por cada contorno de busto, cintura y cadera se colocan marcadores en las zonas de los flancos del cuerpo, definiéndose entonces, un marcador del puntos centro del flanco derecho de busto, uno del centro del flanco derecho de cintura y uno del centro de flanco derecho de cadera, los que se colocan alineados en un mismo eje imaginario longitudinal lateral derecho del cuerpo; y su vez, se define un marcador del punto centro del flanco izquierdo del busto, del punto centro del flanco izquierdo de
cintura y uno del punto centro de flanco izquierdo de cadera, los que se colocan alineados en un eje imaginario longitudinal lateral derecho del cuerpo. For each contour of the bust, waist and hip, markers are placed in the areas of the flanks of the body, defining then, a marker for the center point of the right flank of the bust, one for the center of the right flank of the waist and one for the center of the right flank. of the hip, those that are placed aligned on the same imaginary longitudinal axis on the right side of the body; and in turn, a marker is defined for the center point of the left flank of the bust, of the center point of the left flank of waist and one from the center point of the left flank of the hip, which are placed aligned on an imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis of the body.
De manera específica, para tomar correctamente las medidas correspondientes al contorno de busto, se coloca un marcador en la punta del seno derecho, un marcador en la punta del seno izquierdo, un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho a la altura del busto, un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura del busto. Specifically, to correctly take the measurements corresponding to the bust contour, a marker is placed at the tip of the right breast, a marker at the tip of the left breast, a marker in the center of the right flank at bust height, a marker in the center of the left flank at the height of the bust.
Los dos primeros marcadores que se colocan en la punta de cada seno, sirven para señalar dónde se produce el mayor diámetro de contorno de busto, lo que es deseable de identificar para que la prenda concebida final tenga un buen calce en dicha zona. The first two markers that are placed at the tip of each breast serve to indicate where the largest diameter of the bust contour is produced, which is desirable to identify so that the final designed garment has a good fit in said area.
En tanto, los marcadores que se colocan en los flancos deben estar en la mitad del ancho de los laterales del cuerpo, que suele coincidir con la línea por debajo de la zona axilar y a la vez, estos marcadores deben estar alineados horizontalmente con los marcadores colocados en la punta de cada seno. Meanwhile, the markers that are placed on the flanks must be in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the line below the axillary area and at the same time, these markers must be aligned horizontally with the markers placed at the tip of each breast.
En base a estos primeros marcadores se obtiene la medida de la sección delantera de busto, la la sección posterior de busto y el contorno total de busto, donde el contorno total de busto se obtiene extendiendo la cinta métrica en todo el contorno pasando por los marcadores de los flancos y los marcadores de los senos; la medida de la sección delantera de busto se obtiene extendiendo la cinta métrica desde el un marcador del flanco derecho o izquierdo hacia el marcador del flanco opuesto pasando por los marcadores de los senos; en tanto, la medida de la sección posterior de busto se obtiene, preferentemente, restándole a la medida del contorno total de busto la medida de la sección delantera de busto; este modo de obtener la sección posterior del busto es conveniente cuando el usuario realiza automedición de su cuerpo y por lo tanto, no puede cómodamente extender la cinta por la parte posterior del cuerpo y asegurarse que se está midiendo correctamente en los marcadores adheridos al cuerpo. Based on these first markers, the measurement of the front section of the bust, the rear section of the bust and the total contour of the bust is obtained, where the total contour of the bust is obtained by extending the tape measure all the way around, passing through the markers. flanks and sinus markers; the measurement of the front section of the bust is obtained by extending the tape measure from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank passing through the markers of the breasts; meanwhile, the measurement of the rear section of the bust is obtained, preferably, by subtracting the measurement of the front section of the bust from the measurement of the total contour of the bust; This way of obtaining the posterior section of the bust is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and ensure that it is being measured correctly in the markers attached to the body.
Para tomar correctamente las medidas correspondientes al contorno de cintura, se coloca un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho y un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura de la zona más estrecha del abdomen; ellos deben colocarse en la mitad del ancho de los laterales del cuerpo, que suele coincidir con la extensión de una línea longitudinal que pasa por debajo de la zona axilar y a la vez, estos marcadores deben estar alineados horizontalmente entre sí. To correctly take the measurements corresponding to the waist contour, a marker is placed in the center of the right flank and a marker is placed in the center of the left flank at the height of the narrowest area of the abdomen; they must be placed in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the extension of a longitudinal line that passes under the axillary area and at the same time, these markers must be aligned horizontally with each other.
En base a estos marcadores se obtiene la medida de la sección delantera de cintura, la sección posterior de cintura y el contorno completo de cintura; para obtener el contorno completo se rodea,
con la cinta métrica, la cintura en todo su perímetro haciéndola pasar por ambos marcadores de cada flanco; la medida de la sección delantera de cintura se obtiene extendiendo la cinta métrica por delante del cuerpo desde el un marcador del flanco derecho o izquierdo hacia el marcador del flanco opuesto; en tanto, la medida de la sección posterior de cintura se obtiene, preferentemente, restándole a la medida del contorno total de cintura la medida de la sección delantera; este modo de obtener la sección posterior del cintura es conveniente cuando el usuario realiza automedición de su cuerpo y por lo tanto, no puede cómodamente extender la cinta por la parte posterior del cuerpo y asegurarse que se está midiendo correctamente en los marcadores adheridos al cuerpo. Based on these markers, the measurement of the front waist section, the rear waist section and the complete waist contour are obtained; to obtain the complete contour is circled, with the tape measure, the waist around its entire perimeter making it pass through both markers on each flank; the measurement of the front waist section is obtained by extending the tape measure in front of the body from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank; meanwhile, the measurement of the rear waist section is preferably obtained by subtracting the measurement of the front section from the measurement of the total waist contour; This way of obtaining the posterior section of the waist is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and ensure that he is measuring correctly on the markers attached to the body.
Para tomar correctamente las medidas correspondientes al contorno de cadera, se coloca un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho y uno en el centro del flanco izquierdo, ambos a la altura de la zona más prominente de las caderas en una vista frontal; y se coloca un tercer marcador en el centro posterior entre glúteos, en la zona más proyectada hacia fuera de los glúteos en una vista lateral, el que sirve para visualizar dónde se produce la mayor medida posterior de caderas To correctly take the measurements corresponding to the hip contour, a marker is placed in the center of the right flank and one in the center of the left flank, both at the height of the most prominent area of the hips in a frontal view; and a third marker is placed in the posterior center between the buttocks, in the most projected area of the buttocks in a lateral view, which serves to visualize where the greatest posterior measurement of the hips occurs.
Los marcadores que se colocan en los flancos deben estar en la mitad del ancho de los laterales del cuerpo, que suele coincidir con la línea longitudinal por debajo de la zona axilar, y a la vez. En base a estos marcadores se obtiene la medida de la sección delantera de caderas, la sección posterior de caderas y el contorno total de caderas, donde el contorno total de caderas se obtiene extendiendo la cinta métrica rodeando el cuerpo pasando por los marcadores de los flancos y el marcador del centro posterior entre glúteos; la medida de la sección delantera de cadera se obtiene extendiendo la cinta métrica desde el marcador del flanco derecho o izquierdo hacia el marcador del flanco opuesto pasando por el abdomen; en tanto, la medida de la sección posterior de cadera se obtiene, preferentemente, restándole a la medida del contorno total de cadera la medida de la sección delantera de cadera; al igual que en las otras dos secciones de busto y cintura, este modo de obtener la sección posterior de cadera es conveniente cuando el usuario realiza automedición de su cuerpo y por lo tanto, no puede cómodamente extender la cinta por la parte posterior del cuerpo y asegurarse que se está midiendo correctamente en los marcadores adheridos al cuerpo. The markers that are placed on the flanks must be in the middle of the width of the sides of the body, which usually coincides with the longitudinal line below the axillary area, and at the same time. Based on these markers, the measurement of the front section of the hips, the rear section of the hips and the total contour of the hips is obtained, where the total contour of the hips is obtained by extending the tape measure around the body passing through the markers on the flanks. and the posterior center marker between buttocks; the measurement of the front section of the hip is obtained by extending the tape measure from the marker of the right or left flank towards the marker of the opposite flank passing through the abdomen; meanwhile, the measurement of the posterior hip section is preferably obtained by subtracting the measurement of the front hip section from the measurement of the total hip contour; As in the other two sections of the bust and waist, this way of obtaining the posterior section of the hip is convenient when the user performs a self-measurement of his body and therefore cannot comfortably extend the tape along the posterior part of the body and make sure you are measuring correctly on the markers attached to the body.
Este modo de medir de manera separada las secciones delanteras de las posteriores permite que la conformación de la prenda de vestir tenga un calce personalizado de acuerdo a la distribución de los volúmenes de cada contorno significativo del cuerpo de cada usuario; de modo que cada contorno no se considera como un simple perímetro parejo, sino que se toma en cuenta cuánto de un determinado perímetro debe formar parte de la parte delantera o trasera del cuerpo.
Con ello, los usuarios con cuerpos que poseen zonas más prominentes hacia adelante, ya sea por el busto o un abdomen mayor, o más prominentes hacia atrás, ya sea por un volumen mayor en la zona de glúteos o porque poseen un contorno de espalda más abultado, pueden obtener prendas de vestir que se adaptan mejor a sus cuerpos sin que las prendas se vean deformadas, pues como pasa, por ejemplo, en cuerpos con un mayor volumen frontal en la zona del busto, si la prenda se concibe con un perímetro de busto sin diferenciar de manera personalizada, es probable que la línea de unión lateral entre el delantero y el trasero de la prenda, se desplace hacia la zona frontal para contener el busto, resultando muchas veces que la prenda se ve y percibe chueca, generándose pliegues diagonales por debajo del busto y hacia la espalda, perdiéndose muchas veces la línea originalmente pensada. This way of measuring the front sections separately from the rear ones allows the conformation of the garment to have a personalized fit according to the distribution of the volumes of each significant contour of the body of each user; so that each contour is not considered as a simple even perimeter, but takes into account how much of a given perimeter should be part of the front or back of the body. With this, users with bodies that have more prominent areas in the front, either due to the bust or a larger abdomen, or more prominent in the back, either due to a greater volume in the buttocks area or because they have a more contoured back. bulky, they can obtain garments that adapt better to their bodies without the garments appear deformed, because as happens, for example, in bodies with a greater frontal volume in the bust area, if the garment is conceived with a perimeter of bust without differentiating in a personalized way, it is likely that the lateral union line between the front and back of the garment moves towards the front area to contain the bust, often resulting in the garment looking and perceiving crooked, generating diagonal folds below the bust and towards the back, often losing the line originally intended.
Adicionalmente se colocan otros dos marcadores en la zona frontal del cuerpo, un marcador en el punto central frontal base cuello y un marcador en el punto frontal central de cadera; ambos alineados en el centro del cuerpo, los que permiten medir una altura de referencia para la conformación del patrón a escalar. Normalmente, el punto de altura superior coincide con la zona más baja del escote de la prenda, en tanto, el punto de altura inferior coincide con borde inferior de la prenda, de modo que no siempre, dichos puntos de la zona frontal, se ubican precisamente en el nacimiento de las clavículas o a la altura de las caderas. Additionally, two other markers are placed in the frontal area of the body, a marker in the central frontal point of the neck base and a marker in the central frontal point of the hip; both aligned in the center of the body, which allow a reference height to be measured for the conformation of the pattern to be scaled. Normally, the upper height point coincides with the lowest area of the neckline of the garment, while the lower height point coincides with the lower edge of the garment, so that these points in the front area are not always located. precisely at the birth of the clavicles or at the height of the hips.
Para facilitar el uso de cada una de las medidas obtenidas gracias a los diferentes marcadores, cada conjunto de mediciones diferenciadas entre medidas de busto, cintura y cadera se registran e indizan con un símbolo especial diferenciador entre cada grupo de medidas. To facilitate the use of each of the measurements obtained thanks to the different markers, each set of measurements differentiated between bust, waist and hip measurements are recorded and indexed with a special differentiating symbol between each group of measurements.
En una realización de la invención, las medidas de busto, las medidas de cintura y las medidas de cadera, se indizan con una figura geométrica diferente entre sí; por ejemplo, las medidas de busto se indizan con un cuadrado, las medidas de cintura se indizan con un círculo y las medidas de cadera se indizan con un triángulo. In an embodiment of the invention, the bust measurements, the waist measurements and the hip measurements are indexed with a different geometric figure from each other; for example, bust measurements are indexed with a square, waist measurements are indexed with a circle, and hip measurements are indexed with a triangle.
En una realización alternativa de la invención, las medidas de busto, las medidas de cintura y las medidas de cadera se indizan cada una con un color diferente entre sí. In an alternate embodiment of the invention, the bust measurements, waist measurements, and hip measurements are each indexed in a different color from one another.
Esta identificación diferenciada de los diferentes grupos de medidas es de especial utilidad en las siguientes etapas del método, pues las medidas se aplican para la conformación del patrón en miniatura y también para el escalamiento final en tamaño real del patrón. This differentiated identification of the different groups of measurements is especially useful in the following stages of the method, since the measurements are applied for the conformation of the miniature pattern and also for the final scaling in real size of the pattern.
II. etapa de patronal e
En esta etapa de patronaje se conforma un patrón en miniatura base, a modo de patrón maestro, que está definido con medidas promedio de un grupo usuario objetivo que posee características antropomórfícas y antropométricas comunes. II. employer stage and In this pattern-making stage, a basic miniature pattern is formed, as a master pattern, which is defined with average measurements of a target user group that has common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics.
Las medidas promedio de un grupo usuario objetivo se refieren efectivamente a un promedio obtenido de medir un grupo determinado, por ejemplo, personas de un determinado grupo étnico o etario que tienen características antropomórfícas y antropométricas comunes; esto se realiza para conseguir que el resultado final del método permita realmente concebir prendas con mejor calce, hecho que no se consigue con prendas fabricadas en base a cuerpos estandarizados que no consideran las diferencias que pueden observarse entre los diferentes grupos, por edad o por características morfológicas. The average measurements of a target user group effectively refer to an average obtained from measuring a certain group, for example, people of a certain ethnic or age group who have common anthropomorphic and anthropometric characteristics; This is done to achieve that the final result of the method really makes it possible to conceive garments with a better fit, a fact that is not achieved with garments made based on standardized bodies that do not consider the differences that can be observed between the different groups, by age or by characteristics. morphological.
Por ejemplo, se conoce que el cuerpo promedio de mujeres de origen asiático, son cuerpos menudos y de baja estatura, en comparación, por ejemplo, al cuerpo promedio de mujeres de origen europeo o africano. For example, it is known that the average body of women of Asian origin are petite and short, compared, for example, to the average body of women of European or African origin.
Es posible identificar rasgos propios de diferentes grupos incluso dentro de una misma etnia, como asimismo, es conocido que la morfología cambia en diferentes grupos etarios; conocer las diferentes características permite que el presente método, facilite la adaptación de patrones ya concebidos de acuerdo a un grupo usuario objetivo, para que estos puedan ser escalados en base a las medidas de un usuario específico de ese grupo usuario objetivo, sin que se pierda el objetivo de llegar a prendas escaladas con un buen calce, más personalizado. It is possible to identify characteristics of different groups even within the same ethnic group, as well as, it is known that the morphology changes in different age groups; Knowing the different characteristics allows this method to facilitate the adaptation of patterns already conceived according to a target user group, so that these can be scaled based on the measurements of a specific user of that target user group, without losing the objective of reaching scaled garments with a good fit, more personalized.
En esta etapa se distingue un primer paso, en el cual se dibuja un patrón en miniatura de la parte delantera y de la parte trasera de la prenda de vestir a escalar, tomando en cuenta un promedio de medidas reales del cuerpo de un grupo usuario objetivo, llegando al dibujo de patrón de una talla cualquiera, pequeña, mediana o grande, pero considerando el promedio de medidas del determinado grupo usuario objetivo. Dicho dibujo del patrón en miniatura comprende un contorno que define los límites exteriores y los cortes interiores del patrón, tal como los cortes para la confección de pinzas de ajuste de la prenda a las curvaturas del cuerpo. In this stage, a first step is distinguished, in which a miniature pattern of the front and back of the garment to be scaled is drawn, taking into account an average of real body measurements of a target user group. , arriving at the pattern drawing of any size, small, medium or large, but considering the average measurements of the determined target user group. Said drawing of the miniature pattern comprises a contour that defines the outer limits and the inner cuts of the pattern, such as the cuts for making darts for adjusting the garment to the curvatures of the body.
Luego, en base a dichas medidas promedio se establece una constante matemática entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura. Then, based on said average measurements, a mathematical constant is established between a real average measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the thumbnail pattern.
Específicamente, dicha constante matemática corresponde al cociente entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura.
En una realización de la invención, el cociente es la distancia real promedio desde el punto frontal base del cuello hasta el punto frontal cadera del grupo usuario objetivo, dividido por la misma distancia medida en el patrón en miniatura. Specifically, said mathematical constant corresponds to the quotient between an average real measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the miniature pattern. In one embodiment of the invention, the quotient is the actual average distance from the frontal base point of the neck to the frontal hip point of the target user group, divided by the same distance measured in the miniature pattern.
Esta constante será de utilidad al momento en que se determinen unas coordenadas polares que servirán para el trazado final del patrón escalado. This constant will be useful when determining some polar coordinates that will be used for the final layout of the scaled pattern.
A la vez, en el patrón en miniatura se debe determinar un punto de referencia para trazado de coordenadas polares, las que permitirán el escalamiento exacto del patrón en miniatura tomando como referencia las medidas promedio del grupo usuario objetivo y las medidas personalizadas del usuario final. Dicho punto de referencia puede ser identificado con una cruz, una letra exis o cualquier símbolo que contenga un punto claramente identificable. At the same time, a reference point must be determined in the miniature pattern for plotting polar coordinates, which will allow the exact scaling of the miniature pattern taking as reference the average measurements of the target user group and the custom measurements of the end user. Said reference point can be identified with a cross, an exis letter or any symbol that contains a clearly identifiable point.
En un paso posterior se deben establecer puntos estratégicos en el contorno del patrón en miniatura. Dichos puntos estratégicos se ubican en cada uno de los vértices de los tramos rectos del contorno del patrón en miniatura y, se ubica, al menos un punto estratégico intermedio entre los vértices de tramos curvos del contorno. Estos puntos estratégicos son los puntos mínimos para determinar el contorno y son dichos puntos los que serán proyectados a escala para luego unirlos y conformar el patrón escalado a escala real en base al cual se corta la tela para conformar la prenda de vestir. In a later step strategic points must be established on the outline of the miniature pattern. Said strategic points are located in each one of the vertices of the straight sections of the contour of the miniature pattern and, at least one intermediate strategic point is located between the vertices of curved sections of the contour. These strategic points are the minimum points to determine the contour and it is these points that will be projected to scale to later join them and form the pattern scaled to real scale based on which the fabric is cut to form the garment.
Al establecer los puntos estratégicos en el contorno del patrón en miniatura, se debe trazar un radio desde el punto de referencia, que pase por cada punto estratégico y que se extienda por fuera de dicho contorno en un tramo de longitud arbitraria. When setting vantage points on the outline of the miniature pattern, a radius must be drawn from the reference point, through each vantage point, and extending outside the outline for an arbitrary length.
Entre estos puntos estratégicos no solo se encuentran puntos que solamente marcan vértices de encuentro entre los lados o que marcan la trayectoria de una curva en los tramos curvos del patrón, como pasa en los tramos de la sisa y en los escotes curvos; sino que también se deben establecer puntos estratégicos que ayudan a localizar y dimensionar elementos interiores del patrón que no son parte del contorno, como pasa con los cortes interiores para la confección de pinzas de ajuste; en este último caso, dichos puntos estratégicos se localizan en el contorno del patrón en miniatura trazando un radio desde el punto de referencia marcado con una cruz y haciéndolo pasar por cada uno de los vértices que conforman a dicho corte de pinza hasta que cada radio trazado intercepta la línea del contorno del patrón. Among these strategic points there are not only points that only mark meeting vertices between the sides or that mark the trajectory of a curve in the curved sections of the pattern, as happens in the sections of the armhole and in the curved necklines; but strategic points must also be established that help to locate and size interior elements of the pattern that are not part of the outline, as happens with the interior cuts for the making of adjustment darts; in the latter case, said strategic points are located on the contour of the miniature pattern by drawing a radius from the reference point marked with a cross and passing it through each of the vertices that make up said darts cut until each radius drawn intersects the contour line of the pattern.
Luego, cada punto estratégico establecido en el contorno del patrón en miniatura, debe ser diferenciado entre puntos dependientes de la medida de busto, puntos dependientes de la medida de cintura y puntos dependientes de la medida de cadera, indizándolos con los mismos símbolos
especiales adoptados en el paso de medición del presente método, dibujando el símbolo en el extremo exterior de la extensión del radio trazado desde el punto de referencia. Then, each strategic point established in the contour of the miniature pattern must be differentiated between points dependent on the bust measurement, points dependent on the waist measurement and points dependent on the hip measurement, indexing them with the same symbols. special measures adopted in the measurement step of the present method, drawing the symbol at the outer end of the extent of the radius drawn from the reference point.
Los puntos dependientes de la medida de busto son, normalmente, aquellos puntos del contorno que están en la zona por arriba de la cintura marcada en el patrón en miniatura; los puntos dependientes de la medida de cintura son, normalmente, aquellos puntos colocados en y por debajo de la línea de cintura, pero también son todos aquellos puntos estratégicos que marcan la posición de los cortes de pinzas de cintura, de modo que es factible indizar con el símbolo de medidas de cintura a algunos puntos estratégicos que están por sobre la línea de cintura y también en la línea de cadera. A su vez, los puntos dependientes de la medida de cadera son, normalmente, aquellos puntos colocados por debajo de la línea de cintura y que determinan el ancho del patrón en el borde inferior. The points dependent on the bust measurement are, normally, those contour points that are in the area above the waist marked on the miniature pattern; The points dependent on the waist measurement are, normally, those points placed on and below the waist line, but they are also all those strategic points that mark the position of the waist dart cuts, so that it is feasible to index with the waist measurement symbol to some strategic points that are above the waist line and also on the hip line. In turn, the points that depend on the hip measurement are, normally, those points placed below the waist line and that determine the width of the pattern on the lower edge.
En un paso posterior, se debe determinar el valor de las coordenadas polares, para ello se debe medir la distancia radial desde el punto de referencia hacia cada uno de los puntos estratégicos ubicados en el contorno del patrón en miniatura y dicha distancia radial multiplicarla por la constante matemática obtenida en la etapa previa. In a later step, the value of the polar coordinates must be determined, for this the radial distance must be measured from the reference point to each of the strategic points located on the outline of the miniature pattern and said radial distance multiplied by the mathematical constant obtained in the previous stage.
El valor de las coordenadas polares se debe anotar sobre el tramo externo de longitud arbitraria de cada punto estratégico ubicado en el contorno del patrón en miniatura. The value of the polar coordinates must be noted on the external stretch of arbitrary length of each strategic point located on the contour of the miniature pattern.
III. etapa de traspaso III. handover stage
En esta etapa se realiza el trazado del patrón a escala real para corte de la tela y ella se lleva a cabo a través de los siguientes pasos, At this stage, the drawing of the pattern is carried out on a real scale for cutting the fabric and it is carried out through the following steps,
Se toma el patrón en miniatura, delantero o posterior, con los valores de las coordenadas polares ya determinadas y donde los puntos estratégicos han sido identificados con diferentes símbolos en correlación con la medida de la cual dependen, sean dependientes del busto, cintura o cadera; y dicho patrón en miniatura se traspasa a un sustrato definitivo que puede ser un papel de molde o la tela definitiva. The miniature pattern is taken, front or back, with the values of the polar coordinates already determined and where the strategic points have been identified with different symbols in correlation with the measurement on which they depend, whether they depend on the bust, waist or hip; and said miniature pattern is transferred to a final substrate that can be a mold paper or the final fabric.
El patrón en miniatura se ubica cercano a una esquina del trozo de tela o papel y se fija con algún medio adhesivo provisorio. The miniature pattern is placed near one corner of the piece of cloth or paper and attached with some temporary adhesive medium.
Para el traspaso como tal se ocupa un escalímetro plano especial, basado en el instrumento que se usa en la técnica de patronaje conocida como “corte de oro”; este escalímetro comprende una graduación
de cinta métrica normal y dos graduaciones a escala iguales entre sí, pero diferente de la escala normal, y que presenta una perforación pequeña por cada graduación a escala. Las tres graduaciones se extienden impresas como franjas longitudinales una al lado de la otra, una en un borde lateral, una central y otra en una franja lateral opuesta. For the transfer as such, a special flat scaler is used, based on the instrument used in the pattern making technique known as "gold cut"; this scaler includes a graduation of normal tape measure and two scale graduations equal to each other, but different from the normal scale, and that presents a small perforation for each scale graduation. The three graduations extend in print as longitudinal stripes next to each other, one on one side edge, one central, and one on an opposite side stripe.
La franja de un borde lateral corresponde a las medidas reales de una cinta métrica y abarca desde el número cero hasta el quince; la franja central abarca números desde el dos al ciento treinta y ocho, y la franja lateral abarca números desde el cero al ciento cuarenta, donde los números de la franja central están intercalados espacialmente con los de la franja lateral, y donde, la franja con medidas de cinta métrica comienza con el cero a la altura aproximada entre el número ciento dos y ciento cuatro de ambas graduaciones a escala. The strip on a side edge corresponds to the actual measurements of a tape measure and ranges from the number zero to fifteen; the central strip covers numbers from two to one hundred and thirty-eight, and the side strip covers numbers from zero to one hundred and forty, where the numbers of the central strip are spatially interspersed with those of the side strip, and where, the strip with Tape measure measurements begin with zero at the approximate height between number one hundred two and one hundred four of both scale graduations.
El escalímetro plano especial puede comprende una extensión donde la escala de la franja central se extiende hasta el número doscientos ochenta y dos, y la escala de la franja lateral se extiende hasta el número doscientos ochenta; esto permite que el método se pueda aplicar para escalar prendas de tallas más extremas. Por el lado donde está la graduación a escala normal, al escalímetro se le pega una cinta métrica normal que permite extender la cantidad de números normales. The special flat scale can comprise an extension where the scale of the central band extends to number two hundred and eighty-two, and the scale of the side band extends to number two hundred and eighty; this allows the method to be applied to scale garments of more extreme sizes. On the side where the normal scale graduation is, a normal tape measure is attached to the scaler that allows the number of normal numbers to be extended.
Ahora, para traspasar a escala real la parte delantera del patrón en miniatura y a la vez, adaptarlo de acuerdo a las medidas reales del cuerpo del usuario final, se toma el escalímetro plano especial y se ubica en las graduaciones a escala la medida de la sección delantera del busto registrada en la etapa de medición; en dicha medida se hace pasar por su perforación un dispositivo de fijación, tipo alfiler o chinche, que actúa como eje de giro, y luego éste se fija en el punto de referencia del patrón en miniatura que está fijo en el sustrato definitivo. Now, to transfer the front part of the miniature pattern to real scale and, at the same time, adapt it according to the actual measurements of the end user's body, the special flat scaler is taken and the section measurement is placed on the scale graduations. front of the bust registered in the measurement stage; To this extent, a fixing device, such as a pin or thumbtack, is passed through its perforation, which acts as a turning axis, and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern that is fixed on the final substrate.
Se traza una primera línea polar desde el punto de referencia, pasando por un primer punto estratégico con el símbolo especial que identifica las medidas de busto, y dicha línea se extiende en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica normal la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico por el que se está pasando, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado que se marca en el sustrato definitivo. A first polar line is drawn from the reference point, passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and said line extends in the same direction until it reaches the figure noted in the standard tape measure. strategic point through which it is passing, thus locating the projected strategic point that is marked on the final substrate.
Se repite lo mismo con cada uno de los puntos estratégicos indizados con el mismo símbolo de las medidas de busto. The same is repeated with each of the strategic points indexed with the same symbol of the bust measurements.
Luego, se repite el mismo procedimiento con las medidas de la sección delantera de cintura, para lo cual se debe cambiar la medida en el punto eje fijado en el escalímetro, por la medida de la sección delantera de cintura y se trazan las líneas correspondientes a puntos estratégicos que tienen el símbolo que representa a las medidas de cintura.
Luego, se repite el mismo procedimiento con las medidas de la sección delantera de cadera, para lo cual se debe cambiar la medida en el punto eje fijado en el escalímetro, por la medida de la sección delantera de cadera y se trazan las líneas correspondientes a puntos estratégicos que tienen el símbolo que representa a las medidas de cadera. Then, the same procedure is repeated with the measurements of the front waist section, for which the measurement at the axis point set on the scale must be changed for the measurement of the front waist section and the lines corresponding to strategic points that have the symbol that represents waist measurements. Then, the same procedure is repeated with the measurements of the front hip section, for which the measurement at the axis point set on the scale must be changed for the measurement of the front hip section and the lines corresponding to strategic points that have the symbol that represents hip measurements.
Se repiten los mismos pasos para el traspaso del patrón en miniatura de la parte posterior de la prenda, cambiando en el escalímetro las medidas correspondientes a la sección posterior de busto, sección posterior de cintura y sección posterior de cadera. The same steps are repeated for the transfer of the miniature pattern on the back of the garment, changing the measurements corresponding to the back section of the bust, back section of the waist and back section of the hip on the scaler.
El hecho de que en el escalímetro se ubiquen las medidas reales tomas en la primera etapa, permite que el patrón escalado haya recogido efectivamente las medidas personalizadas del usuario final. The fact that the actual measurements taken in the first stage are located in the scaler allows the scaled pattern to have effectively collected the custom measurements of the end user.
Una vez que se han trazado todos los puntos estratégicos proyectados de la parte delantera y de la parte posterior del patrón en miniatura, dichos puntos proyectados en el sustrato definitivo se unen replicando en tamaño real la forma del contorno del patrón en miniatura, donde los tramos rectos entre vértices se unen con una regla recta y los tramos curvos entre vértices se unen con reglas tipo cerchas. Once all the projected vantage points on the front and back of the miniature pattern have been traced, these projected points on the final substrate are joined by replicating in real size the shape of the outline of the miniature pattern, where the sections straight sections between vertices are joined with a straight rule and curved sections between vertices are joined with truss-type rules.
DESCRIPCIÓN DE LAS FIGURAS DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
La presente invención es susceptible de diversas modificaciones y formas alternativas; en las siguientes figuras se muestran implementaciones ejemplares específicas de la misma; sin embargo, debe entenderse, que la descripción de implementaciones ejemplares específicas no pretende limitar la divulgación a las formas particulares descritas en este documento. The present invention is susceptible to various modifications and alternative forms; Specific exemplary implementations thereof are shown in the following figures; however, it is to be understood, that the description of specific exemplary implementations is not intended to limit the disclosure to the particular forms described in this document.
Así, una descripción detallada de la invención se llevará a cabo en conjunto con las figuras que forman parte integral de esta presentación, donde: Thus, a detailed description of the invention will be carried out in conjunction with the figures that form an integral part of this presentation, where:
La figura 1 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso a) donde se ve la disposición de los marcadores en el cuerpo, de acuerdo a una vista frontal y una posterior. Figure 1 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the arrangement of the markers in the body is seen, according to a front and a rear view.
La figura 2 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso a) donde se muestran las medidas en el cuerpo, de acuerdo a una vista lateral y una frontal. Figure 2 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the measurements on the body are shown, according to a side view and a front view.
La figura 3 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso a) donde se muestra la disposición de los marcadores en el cuerpo, de acuerdo a vistas laterales del cuerpo.
La figura 4 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso b) y del paso c) donde se muestra el trazado del patrón en miniatura. Figure 3 shows an exemplary diagram of step a) where the arrangement of the markers in the body is shown, according to side views of the body. Figure 4 shows an exemplary diagram of step b) and step c) where the layout of the miniature pattern is shown.
La figura 5 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso b), mostrando la determinación de una constante matemática, de acuerdo a una primera realización de la invención. Figure 5 shows an exemplary diagram of step b), showing the determination of a mathematical constant, according to a first embodiment of the invention.
La figura 6 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso d), para establecer puntos estratégicos en el contorno de un patrón en miniatura. Figure 6 shows an exemplary diagram of step d), to establish strategic points on the outline of a miniature pattern.
La figura 7 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso d). Figure 7 shows an exemplary diagram of step d).
La figura 8 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso e) para diferenciar cada punto estratégico. Figure 8 shows an exemplary diagram of step e) to differentiate each strategic point.
La figura 9 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso f) para determinar el valor de las coordenadas polares. Figure 9 shows an exemplary diagram of step f) to determine the value of the polar coordinates.
La figura 10 enseña un diagrama ejemplificador del paso g) para traspasar el patrón en miniatura a una escala real final. Figure 10 shows an exemplary diagram of step g) to transfer the miniature pattern to a final real scale.
La figura 11 enseña una vista isométrica ejemplificadora del paso g) con utilización de un escalímetro especial. Figure 11 shows an exemplary isometric view of step g) using a special scaler.
La figura 12 enseña una vista frontal del escalímetro especial. Figure 12 shows a front view of the special scaler.
DESCRIPCIÓN DETALLADA DE LA INVENCIÓN DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
La presente invención se refiere a un método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, que permite concebir prendas de vestir escaladas con un calce mejor concordante con el tipo de cuerpo de cada usuario. The present invention relates to a method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to design scaled garments with a better fit consistent with the body type of each user.
El método comprende etapas generales de medición, patronaje y traspaso, las que se llevan a cabo por medio de los siguientes pasos: a) medir el cuerpo humano The method includes general stages of measurement, pattern making and transfer, which are carried out through the following steps: a) measuring the human body
Medir el cuerpo humano de acuerdo a secciones diferenciadas entre busto, cintura y cadera, y éstas, a la vez, diferenciadas entre secciones delanteras y posteriores.
Tal como se ilustra en la FIG. l, se colocan unos marcadores en puntos específicos del cuerpo, localizando un marcador en la punta de busto derecho (1), un marcador en la punta de busto izquierdo (2), un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho (3) a la altura del busto, un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo (4) a la altura del busto, un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho a la altura de cintura (5), un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura de cintura (6), un marcador en el centro de flanco derecho a la altura de cadera (7), un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura de cadera (8), un marcador en el centro posterior de glúteos (9) a la altura de marcadores de cadera, un marcador del punto central frontal base cuello (10) y un marcador del punto frontal central de cadera (11). Measure the human body according to differentiated sections between bust, waist and hip, and these, at the same time, differentiated between front and rear sections. As illustrated in FIG. l, markers are placed at specific points on the body, locating a marker at the tip of the right bust (1), a marker at the tip of the left bust (2), a marker in the center of the right flank (3) to the left bust height, one marker in the center of the left flank (4) at bust height, one marker in the center of the right flank at waist height (5), one marker in the center of the left flank at waist height waist (6), a marker in the center of the right flank at hip height (7), a marker in the center of the left flank at hip height (8), a marker in the rear center of the buttocks (9) at the height of hip markers, a marker of the neck base front center point (10) and a marker of the hip center front point (11).
Con la ayuda de dichos marcadores, se obtienen las diferentes medidas requeridas, las que, tal como se ilustra en la FIG.2, corresponden a la medida de la sección delantera de busto (20), la sección posterior de busto (30), la sección delantera de cintura (40), la sección posterior de cintura (50), la sección delantera de cadera (60), la sección posterior de cadera (70), el contorno completo de busto (80), el contorno completo de cintura (90), el contorno completo de cadera (100), la altura frontal (110) de tronco. With the help of said markers, the different required measurements are obtained, which, as illustrated in FIG. 2, correspond to the measurement of the front section of the bust (20), the rear section of the bust (30), front waist (40), back waist (50), front hip (60), back hip (70), full bust (80), full waist (90), the full hip contour (100), the frontal height (110) of the trunk.
Así como mejor se aprecia en la FIG.3, los marcadores de los puntos centro del flanco derecho de busto (3), centro del flanco derecho de cintura (5) y centro de flanco derecho de cadera (7) se colocan alineados en un mismo eje imaginario longitudinal lateral derecho (xd) del cuerpo; y los marcadores de los puntos centro del flanco izquierdo (4) del busto, centro del flanco izquierdo de cintura (6) y centro de flanco izquierdo de cadera (8) se colocan alineados en un eje imaginario longitudinal lateral izquierdo (xi) del cuerpo. As best seen in FIG. 3, the markers for the center points of the right flank of the bust (3), center of the right flank of the waist (5) and center of the right flank of the hip (7) are placed aligned in a same imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis (xd) of the body; and the markers for the center of the left flank (4) of the bust, center of the left flank of the waist (6) and center of the left flank of the hip (8) are placed aligned on an imaginary left lateral longitudinal axis (xi) of the body .
El marcador de la punta de busto derecho (1) y el marcador de la punta de busto izquierdo (2) se colocan en el punto más levantado de cada busto y sirven para marcar la posición horizontal de la cinta métrica extendida desde el marcador de centro del flanco derecho (3) hasta el marcador de centro del flanco izquierdo (4) cuando se busca obtener la medida sección de busto delantera (20). El marcador del centro posterior entre glúteos (9) se coloca en la zona más proyectada hacia fuera de los glúteos. The right bust point marker (1) and the left bust point marker (2) are placed at the highest point of each bust and serve to mark the horizontal position of the tape measure extended from the center marker. from the right flank (3) to the center marker of the left flank (4) when seeking to obtain the front bust section measurement (20). The posterior center marker between the buttocks (9) is placed in the most projected area of the buttocks.
El marcador de punto central frontal base cuello (10) y el punto frontal central de cadera (11), se colocan en un mismo eje imaginario longitudinal central (y) del cuerpo (FIG.l). The neck base front central point marker (10) and the hip central front point (11) are placed on the same central longitudinal imaginary axis (y) of the body (FIG.l).
Cada conjunto de mediciones diferenciadas entre medidas de busto, cintura y cadera se registran e indizan con un símbolo especial diferenciador entre cada grupo de medidas, donde las medidas de
busto (20, 30), las medidas de cintura (40, 50), y las medidas de cadera (60,70), se indizan con una figura geométrica diferente entre sí. Each set of measurements differentiated between bust, waist and hip measurements are recorded and indexed with a special differentiating symbol between each group of measurements, where the measurements of bust (20, 30), waist measurements (40, 50), and hip measurements (60,70), are indexed with a different geometric figure from each other.
En una realización de la invención, las medidas de cadera (60,70) se indizan con un triángulo, las medidas de cintura (40, 50) se indizan con un círculo y las medidas de busto (20, 30) se indizan con un cuadrado. In one embodiment of the invention, hip measurements (60, 70) are indexed with a triangle, waist measurements (40, 50) are indexed with a circle, and bust measurements (20, 30) are indexed with a square.
Las medidas de las secciones posterior de busto (30), posterior de cintura (50) y posterior de cadera (70), se obtienen restando las respectivas secciones delanteras de busto (20), cintura (40) y caderas (60), desde los correspondientes contornos completos de busto (80), cintura (90) y caderas (100). b) dibujar un patrón en miniatura The measurements of the back sections of the bust (30), back of the waist (50) and back of the hip (70) are obtained by subtracting the respective front sections of the bust (20), waist (40) and hips (60), from the corresponding full contours of bust (80), waist (90) and hips (100). b) draw a miniature pattern
Dibujar el contorno (201) de la parte delantera (D) y parte posterior (P) de un patrón en miniatura (200) de la prenda de vestir a escalar, en un formato de papel pequeño (F), así como se ilustra en la FIG.4, tomando en cuenta un promedio de medidas reales del cuerpo de un grupo usuario objetivo y en base a éstas establecer una constante matemática entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura. Dicho grupo usuario objetivo corresponde a usuarios con características antropométricas y antropomórficas similares. Draw the outline (201) of the front part (D) and back part (P) of a miniature pattern (200) of the garment to be scaled, on a small paper format (F), as illustrated in FIG. 4, taking into account an average of real body measurements of a target user group and based on these, establishing a mathematical constant between an average real measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the miniature pattern. Said target user group corresponds to users with similar anthropometric and anthropomorphic characteristics.
La constante matemática es el cociente entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura. The mathematical constant is the quotient between a real average measurement of a specific body part of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same body part represented in the thumbnail pattern.
En una realización de la invención, el cociente es la distancia real desde el punto frontal base del cuello (10) hasta el punto frontal cadera (11) del grupo usuario objetivo (mostrado en la FIG. 5), dividido por la misma distancia medida en el patrón en miniatura (200). c) Determinar un punto de referencia determinar, en el patrón en miniatura (200), un punto de referencia (300) para trazado de coordenadas polares (mostrado en la FIG. 5). d) Establecer puntos estratégicos In one embodiment of the invention, the quotient is the actual distance from the frontal base point of the neck (10) to the frontal hip point (11) of the target user group (shown in FIG. 5), divided by the same measured distance in the thumbnail pattern (200). c) Determine a reference point determine, on the miniature pattern (200), a reference point (300) for plotting polar coordinates (shown in FIG. 5). d) Establish strategic points
Establecer puntos estratégicos (400) en el contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200), así como se ilustra en la FIG.6, se ubica un punto estratégico (400) en cada uno de los vértices (202) de los tramos
rectos (203) del contorno (201) y, al menos, un punto estratégico intermedio (401) entre los vértices (202) de tramos curvos (204) del contorno (201). Establish strategic points (400) on the contour (201) of the miniature pattern (200), as illustrated in FIG. 6, a strategic point (400) is located on each of the vertices (202) of the sections lines (203) of the contour (201) and, at least, one intermediate strategic point (401) between the vertices (202) of curved sections (204) of the contour (201).
Luego, así como mejor se ejemplifica en la FIG.7, trazar un radio desde el punto de referencia (300) establecido en el paso anterior c), que pase por cada punto estratégico (400) y se extienda por fuera de dicho contorno (210) del patrón en miniatura (200) conformando un tramo externo (700) de longitud arbitraria. e) diferenciar cada punto estratégico Then, as best exemplified in FIG.7, draw a radius from the reference point (300) established in the previous step c), which passes through each strategic point (400) and extends outside said contour ( 210) of the miniature pattern (200) forming an external section (700) of arbitrary length. e) differentiate each strategic point
Diferenciar cada punto estratégico (400) entre puntos dependientes de la medida de busto, puntos dependientes de la medida de cintura y puntos dependientes de la medida de cadera, indizándolos con los mismos símbolos especiales adoptados en el paso a) para cada grupo de medidas, dibujando el símbolo en un extremo exterior del tramo externo (700) de la extensión del radio trazado en el paso anterior. Differentiate each strategic point (400) between points dependent on the bust measurement, points dependent on the waist measurement and points dependent on the hip measurement, indexing them with the same special symbols adopted in step a) for each group of measurements, drawing the symbol at an outer end of the outer section (700) of the extension of the radius drawn in the previous step.
En una realización de la invención, ejemplificada en la FIG.8, los puntos estratégicos dependientes de las medidas de la sección delantera de busto se indizan con un cuadrado, los puntos estratégicos dependientes de la medida de la sección delantera de cintura se indizan con un círculo y los puntos estratégicos dependientes de la medida de la sección delantera de cadera se indizan con un triángulo. f) determinar el valor de las coordenadas polares In an embodiment of the invention, exemplified in FIG. 8, the strategic points dependent on the measurements of the front section of the bust are indexed with a square, the strategic points dependent on the measurement of the front waist section are indexed with a circle and the strategic points depending on the measurement of the front hip section are indexed with a triangle. f) determine the value of polar coordinates
Determinar el valor de las coordenadas polares, midiendo una distancia radial (301) desde el punto de referencia (300) hacia cada uno de los puntos estratégicos (400) ubicados en el contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200) (tal como se ilustra en la FIG.9) y multiplicando dicha distancia radial (301) por la constante matemática obtenida en el paso b), y anotar el valor de la coordenada obtenido sobre el tramo externo (700) de longitud arbitraria. La coordenada polar de cada punto estratégico (400) se anota como número y representa los centímetros que se deberán traspasar al patrón escalado final. g) traspasar el patrón en miniatura Determine the value of the polar coordinates, measuring a radial distance (301) from the reference point (300) towards each of the strategic points (400) located on the contour (201) of the miniature pattern (200) (such as illustrated in FIG. 9) and multiplying said radial distance (301) by the mathematical constant obtained in step b), and noting the value of the coordinate obtained on the external section (700) of arbitrary length. The polar coordinate of each strategic point (400) is noted as a number and represents the centimeters that must be transferred to the final scaled pattern. g) trespass the thumbnail pattern
Traspasar a escala real y en un sustrato definitivo (S), (en referencia a la ilustración de la FIG.11), el patrón en miniatura (200) con las coordenadas polares determinadas en el paso f), con el uso de un escalímetro plano especial (500) que comprende una graduación normal (501) y dos graduaciones (502), (503) a escala iguales entre sí pero diferente de la escala normal (501), y que presenta una perforación (504) pequeña por cada medida en las graduaciones a escala (502), (503) y al que se le
adosa una cinta métrica normal (600). El patrón en miniatura (200) se dispone y se fija sobre un sustrato definitivo (S) que puede ser papel de molde o sustrato definitivo (S)la tela final. Transfer to real scale and on a definitive substrate (S), (referring to the illustration in FIG. 11), the miniature pattern (200) with the polar coordinates determined in step f), using a scaler special plane (500) that includes a normal graduation (501) and two graduations (502), (503) on the same scale but different from the normal scale (501), and that presents a small perforation (504) for each measure in scale graduations (502), (503) and to which Attach a normal tape measure (600). The miniature pattern (200) is arranged and fixed on a final substrate (S) which can be patterned paper or the final substrate (S) of the final fabric.
De manera general, (en referencia a la ilustración de la FIG.11) para traspasar a escala real el patrón en miniatura (200), se ubica el escalímetro plano especial (500), la medida de sección del busto, cintura o cadera registrada en la etapa a); se dispone un eje conector (700) en la perforación (504) del escalímetro correspondiente a la mencionada medida y luego se fija en el punto de referencia (300) del patrón en miniatura (200). In general, (referring to the illustration in FIG. 11) to transfer the miniature pattern (200) to a real scale, the special flat scaler (500) is located, the section measurement of the bust, waist or hip registered in step a); A connector axis (700) is arranged in the perforation (504) of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point (300) of the miniature pattern (200).
Se traza una línea polar (302) desde el punto de referencia (300) y pasando por un punto estratégico (400) con el símbolo especial que identifica la medida y se extiende la línea en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico por el que se pasa, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado (400’) en el sustrato definitivo (S). A polar line (302) is drawn from the reference point (300) and passing through a strategic point (400) with the special symbol that identifies the measurement and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure on the tape measure. noted at the strategic point through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point (400') on the final substrate (S).
Para traspasar a escala real la parte delantera del patrón en miniatura se ubica, en el escalímetro plano especial, la medida de sección delantera del busto registrada en la etapa a); donde se dispone un eje conector en la perforación del escalímetro correspondiente a la mencionada medida y luego se fija en el punto de referencia del patrón en miniatura (200); se traza una primera línea polar desde el punto de referencia y pasando por un primer punto estratégico con el símbolo especial que identifica las medidas de busto, y se extiende la línea en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico por el que se pasa, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado; y luego se repite lo mismo con las medidas de la sección delantera de cintura y la sección delantera de cadera. To transfer the front part of the miniature pattern to a real scale, the measurement of the front section of the bust registered in stage a) is located on the special flat scaler; where a connecting axis is arranged in the perforation of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern (200); A first polar line is drawn from the reference point and passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure noted at the point on the tape measure. strategic through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point; and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the front waist section and the front hip section.
Para traspasar a escala real la parte trasera del patrón en miniatura se ubica, en el escalímetro plano especial, la medida de sección de busto posterior registrada en la etapa a); donde se dispone un eje conector en la perforación del escalímetro correspondiente a la mencionada medida y luego se fija en el punto de referencia del patrón en miniatura; se traza una primera línea polar desde el punto de referencia y pasando por un primer punto estratégico con el símbolo especial que identifica las medidas de busto, y se extiende la línea en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico por el que se pasa, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado; y luego se repite lo mismo con las medidas de la sección posterior de cintura y la sección posterior de cadera. To transfer the back of the miniature pattern to a real scale, the measurement of the rear bust section recorded in stage a) is located on the special flat scaler; where a connecting axis is arranged in the perforation of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point of the miniature pattern; A first polar line is drawn from the reference point and passing through a first strategic point with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until reaching the figure noted at the point on the tape measure. strategic through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point; and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the posterior section of the waist and the posterior section of the hip.
Una vez que se han trazado todos los puntos estratégicos proyectados, se unen dichos puntos estratégicos proyectados (400’) del patrón proyectado (200’) tanto de la parte delantera como de la parte trasera, replicando en tamaño real la forma del contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200),
donde los tramos rectos entre vértices se unen con una regla recta y los tramos curvos entre vértices se unen con reglas tipo cerchas. Once all the projected strategic points have been traced, said projected strategic points (400') of the projected pattern (200') are joined both from the front and the back, replicating in real size the shape of the contour (201 ) of the thumbnail pattern (200), where the straight sections between vertices are joined with a straight rule and the curved sections between vertices are joined with truss-type rules.
Así como se ilustra en la FIG.12, el escalímetro plano especial (500) comprende tres franjas longitudinales con escalas métricas impresas, donde la franja de un borde lateral corresponde a una escala normal (501); y las otras dos franjas, central (502) y lateral (503), poseen medidas de igual escala entre sí, pero diferente a la escala de la cinta métrica. La franja con escala normal (501) abarca desde el número cero hasta el quince; la franja central (502) abarca números desde el dos al ciento treinta y ocho, y la franja lateral (503) abarca números desde el cero al ciento cuarenta, donde los números de la franja central están intercalados espacialmente con los de la franja lateral, y donde, la franja con escala normal (501) comienza con el cero a la altura aproximada entre el número ciento dos y ciento cuatro de ambas escalas central (502) y lateral (503).
As illustrated in FIG. 12, the special flat scaler (500) comprises three longitudinal stripes with printed metric scales, where the strip on a lateral edge corresponds to a normal scale (501); and the other two stripes, central (502) and lateral (503), have measurements of the same scale as each other, but different from the scale of the tape measure. The band with normal scale (501) covers from the number zero to fifteen; the central band (502) covers numbers from two to one hundred and thirty-eight, and the side band (503) covers numbers from zero to one hundred and forty, where the numbers in the central band are spatially interspersed with those in the side band, and where, the strip with normal scale (501) begins with zero at the approximate height between number one hundred two and one hundred four of both central (502) and lateral (503) scales.
Claims
REIVINDICACIONES Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, que permite concebir prendas de vestir con un calce concordante con el tipo de cuerpo de cada usuario, CARACTERIZADO porque comprende los siguientes pasos: a) medir el cuerpo humano de acuerdo a secciones diferenciadas entre busto, cintura y cadera, y éstas, a la vez, diferenciadas entre secciones delanteras y posteriores, localizando unos marcadores (10) en puntos específicos del cuerpo para obtener la medida de la sección delantera de busto (20), la sección posterior de busto (30), la sección delantera de cintura (40), la sección posterior de cintura (50), la sección delantera de cadera (60), la sección posterior de cadera (70), el contorno completo de busto (80), el contorno completo de cintura (90), el contorno completo de cadera (100), la altura frontal (110) de tronco; y donde cada conjunto de mediciones diferenciadas entre medidas de busto, cintura y cadera es indizada con un símbolo especial diferenciador entre cada grupo de medidas; b) dibujar el contorno (201) de un patrón en miniatura (200) de la parte delantera y parte trasera de la prenda de vestir a escalar, tomando en cuenta un promedio de medidas reales del cuerpo de un grupo usuario objetivo y en base a éstas establecer una constante matemática entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura; c) determinar, en el patrón en miniatura (200), un punto de referencia (300) para trazado de coordenadas polares; d) establecer puntos estratégicos (400) en el contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200) y trazar un radio desde el punto de referencia (300) establecido en el paso anterior, que pase por cada punto estratégico (400) y se extienda por fuera de dicho contorno conformando un tramo externo (700) de longitud arbitraria; e) diferenciar cada punto estratégico (400) entre puntos dependientes de la medida de busto, puntos dependientes de la medida de cintura y puntos dependientes de la medida de cadera, indizándolos con los mismos símbolos especiales adoptados en el paso a) para cada grupo de medidas, dibujando el símbolo en un extremo exterior del tramo externo (700) de la extensión del radio trazado en el paso anterior;
f) determinar el valor de las coordenadas polares midiendo la distancia radial (301) desde el punto de referencia (300) hacia cada uno de los puntos estratégicos (400) ubicados en el contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200) y multiplicando dicha distancia radial (301) por la constante matemática obtenida en el paso b), y anotar el valor de la coordenada obtenido sobre el tramo externo (700) de longitud arbitraria; g) traspasar a escala real (800) y en un sustrato definitivo, el patrón en miniatura (200) con las coordenadas polares determinadas en el paso f), con el uso de un escalímetro (500) plano especial que comprende una graduación normal (501) y dos graduaciones (502,503) a escala iguales entre sí, pero diferente de la escala normal, y que presenta una perforación (504) pequeña por cada graduación a escala (502,503). Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa a), se localiza un marcador en la punta de busto derecho (1), un marcador en la punta de busto izquierdo (2), un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho (3) a la altura del busto, un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo (4) a la altura del busto, un marcador en el centro del flanco derecho a la altura de cintura (5), un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura de cintura (6), un marcador en el centro de flanco derecho a la altura de cadera (7), un marcador en el centro del flanco izquierdo a la altura de cadera (8), un marcador en el centro posterior de glúteos (9) a la altura de marcadores de cadera, un marcador del punto central frontal base cuello (10) y un marcador del punto frontal central de cadera (11). Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa a), las medidas de busto (20, 30), las medidas de cintura (40, 50), y las medidas de cadera (60,70), se indizan con una figura geométrica diferente entre sí. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 3, CARACTERIZADO porque las medidas de cadera (60,70) se indizan con un triángulo, las medidas de cintura (40, 50) se indizan con un círculo y las medidas de busto (20, 30) se indizan con un cuadrado. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa a), las medidas de busto (20, 30), las medidas de cintura (40, 50), y las medidas de cadera (60,70) se indizan cada una con un color diferente entre sí.
Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque los marcadores (10) son porciones de material laminar adhesivo con una marca central. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en el paso a), los marcadores de los puntos centro del flanco derecho de busto (3), centro del flanco derecho de cintura (5) y centro de flanco derecho de cadera (7) se colocan alineados en un mismo eje imaginario longitudinal lateral derecho (xi) del cuerpo; y los marcadores de los puntos centro del flanco izquierdo (4) del busto, centro del flanco izquierdo de cintura (6) y centro de flanco izquierdo de cadera (8) se colocan alineados en un eje imaginario longitudinal lateral derecho (xd) del cuerpo. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en el paso a), el marcador de la punta de busto derecho (1) y el marcador de la punta de busto izquierdo (2) se colocan en el punto más levantado de cada busto y sirven para marcar la posición horizontal de la cinta métrica extendida desde el marcador de centro del flanco derecho (3) hasta el marcador de centro del flanco izquierdo (4) cuando se busca obtener la medida sección de busto delantera (20); el marcador del centro posterior entre glúteos (9) se coloca en la zona más proyectada hacia fuera de los glúteos y el marcador de punto central frontal base cuello (10) y el punto frontal central de cadera (11), se colocan en un mismo eje imaginario longitudinal central (y) del cuerpo. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en el paso a), las medidas de las secciones posterior de busto (30), posterior de cintura (50) y posterior de cadera (70), se obtienen restando las respectivas secciones delanteras de busto (20), cintura (40) y caderas (60), desde los correspondientes contornos completos de busto (80), cintura (90) y caderas (100). Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa b), dicho grupo usuario objetivo corresponde a usuarios con características antropométricas y antropomórficas similares. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa b, la constante matemática es el cociente entre una medida real promedio de una parte específica del cuerpo del grupo usuario objetivo y una medida escalada de la misma parte del cuerpo representada en el patrón en miniatura
Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 11, CARACTERIZADO porque el cociente es la distancia real desde el punto frontal base del cuello (10) hasta el punto frontal cadera (11) del grupo usuario objetivo, dividido por la misma distancia medida en el patrón en miniatura (200). Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa d), se ubica un punto estratégico (400) en cada uno de los vértices (202) de los tramos rectos (203) del contorno (201) y, al menos, un punto estratégico intermedio (401) entre los vértices (202) de tramos curvos (204) del contorno (201); Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa f), la coordenada polar de cada punto estratégico (400) se anota como número y representa los centímetros que se deberán traspasar al patrón escalado final. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa g), el patrón en miniatura (200) se dispone y se fija sobre un papel de molde o sobre la tela final. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa g, para traspasar a escala real la parte delantera del patrón en miniatura se ubica, en el escalímetro plano especial (500), la medida de sección delantera del busto (20) registrada en la etapa a); donde se dispone un eje conector (700) en la perforación (501) del escalímetro correspondiente a la mencionada medida y luego se fija en el punto de referencia (300) del patrón en miniatura (200); se traza una primera línea polar (302) desde el punto de referencia (300) y pasando por un primer punto estratégico (400) con el símbolo especial que identifica las medidas de busto, y se extiende la línea en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica (600) la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico (400) por el que se pasa, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado (400’); y luego se repite lo mismo con las medidas de la sección delantera de cintura y la sección delantera de cadera. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa g), para traspasar a escala real la parte trasera del patrón en miniatura se ubica, en el escalímetro plano especial (500), la medida de sección de busto posterior (30) registrada en la etapa a); donde se dispone un eje conector (700) en la perforación (501) del escalímetro correspondiente a la mencionada medida y luego se fija en el punto de CLAIMS Method for scaling garment patterns, which allows the design of garments with a fit consistent with the body type of each user, CHARACTERIZED because it includes the following steps: a) measuring the human body according to differentiated sections between bust, waist and hip, and these, at the same time, differentiate between front and rear sections, locating markers (10) at specific points of the body to obtain the measurement of the front section of the bust (20), the rear section of the bust (30 ), front waist section (40), back waist section (50), front hip section (60), back hip section (70), full bust girth (80), full girth waist (90), full hip contour (100), frontal height (110) of trunk; and where each set of differentiated measurements between bust, waist and hip measurements is indexed with a special differentiating symbol between each group of measurements; b) drawing the outline (201) of a miniature pattern (200) of the front and back of the garment to be scaled, taking into account an average of actual body measurements of a target user group and based on these establish a mathematical constant between an average real measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same part of the body represented in the thumbnail pattern; c) determining, on the miniature pattern (200), a reference point (300) for plotting polar coordinates; d) establishing strategic points (400) on the contour (201) of the miniature pattern (200) and drawing a radius from the reference point (300) established in the previous step, which passes through each strategic point (400) and is extends outside said contour forming an external section (700) of arbitrary length; e) differentiate each strategic point (400) between points dependent on the bust measurement, points dependent on the waist measurement and points dependent on the hip measurement, indexing them with the same special symbols adopted in step a) for each group of measurements, drawing the symbol at an outer end of the outer section (700) of the extension of the radius drawn in the previous step; f) determining the value of the polar coordinates by measuring the radial distance (301) from the reference point (300) to each of the strategic points (400) located on the contour (201) of the miniature pattern (200) and multiplying said radial distance (301) by the mathematical constant obtained in step b), and write down the value of the coordinate obtained on the external section (700) of arbitrary length; g) transfer to a real scale (800) and on a definitive substrate, the miniature pattern (200) with the polar coordinates determined in step f), with the use of a special flat scaler (500) that includes a normal graduation ( 501) and two graduations (502,503) on a scale equal to each other, but different from the normal scale, and which presents a small perforation (504) for each scale graduation (502,503). Method for scaling clothing patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step a), a marker is located on the tip of the right bust (1), a marker on the tip of the left bust (2) , a marker in the center of the right flank (3) at bust height, a marker in the center of the left flank (4) at bust height, a marker in the center of the right flank at waist height (5 ), a marker in the center of the left flank at waist height (6), a marker in the center of the right flank at hip height (7), a marker in the center of the left flank at hip height ( 8), a marker in the rear center of the buttocks (9) at the height of the hip markers, a marker in the front center point of the neck base (10) and a marker in the front center point of the hip (11). Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage a), the bust measurements (20, 30), the waist measurements (40, 50), and the hip measurements (60,70), are indexed with a different geometric figure from each other. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 3, CHARACTERIZED in that the hip measurements (60, 70) are indexed with a triangle, the waist measurements (40, 50) are indexed with a circle and the measurements bust (20, 30) are indexed with a square. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage a), the bust measurements (20, 30), the waist measurements (40, 50), and the hip measurements (60,70) are each indexed with a different color from each other. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that the markers (10) are portions of adhesive sheet material with a central mark. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step a), the markers of the center points of the right flank of the bust (3), center of the right flank of the waist (5) and right hip flank center (7) are aligned on the same imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis (xi) of the body; and the markers for the center of the left flank (4) of the bust, center of the left flank of the waist (6) and center of the left flank of the hip (8) are placed aligned on an imaginary right lateral longitudinal axis (xd) of the body . Method for scaling clothing patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step a), the right bust tip marker (1) and the left bust tip marker (2) are placed at the highest point of each bust and serve to mark the horizontal position of the tape measure extended from the center marker of the right flank (3) to the center marker of the left flank (4) when seeking to obtain the section measurement of front bust (20); the rear center marker between the buttocks (9) is placed in the most projected area of the buttocks and the front center base neck point marker (10) and the front center hip point (11) are placed in the same imaginary central longitudinal axis (y) of the body. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step a), the measurements of the rear bust (30), rear waist (50) and rear hip (70) sections , are obtained by subtracting the respective front sections of bust (20), waist (40) and hips (60), from the corresponding full contours of bust (80), waist (90) and hips (100). Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage b), said target user group corresponds to users with similar anthropometric and anthropomorphic characteristics. Method for scaling clothing patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage b, the mathematical constant is the quotient between an average real measurement of a specific part of the body of the target user group and a scaled measurement of the same body part represented in the thumbnail pattern Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 11, CHARACTERIZED in that the quotient is the real distance from the front base point of the neck (10) to the front hip point (11) of the target user group, divided by the same distance measured on the miniature pattern (200). Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step d), a strategic point (400) is located in each of the vertices (202) of the straight sections (203) of the contour (201) and at least one intermediate strategic point (401) between the vertices (202) of curved sections (204) of the contour (201); Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage f), the polar coordinate of each strategic point (400) is noted as a number and represents the centimeters that must be transferred to the scaled pattern final. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step g), the miniature pattern (200) is arranged and fixed on a mold paper or on the final fabric. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage g, to transfer the front part of the miniature pattern to a real scale, the measurement is located on the special flat scaler (500). front section of the bust (20) recorded in stage a); where a connecting axis (700) is arranged in the perforation (501) of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the reference point (300) of the miniature pattern (200); A first polar line (302) is drawn from the reference point (300) and passing through a first strategic point (400) with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until it reaches the tape measure (600) the figure recorded at the strategic point (400) through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point (400'); and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the front waist section and the front hip section. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in step g), to transfer the back of the miniature pattern to a real scale, the special flat scaler (500) is located rear bust section measurement (30) recorded in stage a); where a connector axis (700) is arranged in the perforation (501) of the scaler corresponding to the mentioned measurement and then it is fixed at the point of
22
referencia (300) del patrón en miniatura (200); se traza una primera línea polar (302) desde el punto de referencia (300) y pasando por un primer punto estratégico (400) con el símbolo especial que identifica las medidas de busto, y se extiende la línea en la misma dirección hasta alcanzar en la cinta métrica (600) la cifra anotada en el punto estratégico (400) por el que se pasa, ubicando así al punto estratégico proyectado (400’); y luego se repite lo mismo con las medidas de la sección posterior de cintura y la sección posterior de cadera. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, en la etapa g), una vez que se han trazado todos los puntos estratégicos proyectados, se unen dichos puntos estratégicos proyectados (400’) del patrón proyectado (200’) tanto de la parte delantera como de la parte trasera, replicando en tamaño real la forma del contorno (201) del patrón en miniatura (200), donde los tramos rectos entre vértices se unen con una regla recta y los tramos curvos entre vértices se unen con reglas tipo cerchas. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 1, CARACTERIZADO porque, el escalímetro plano especial comprende tres franjas longitudinales con escalas métricas impresas, donde la franja de un borde lateral corresponde a las medidas reales de una cinta métrica; y las otras dos franjas, central y lateral, poseen medidas de igual escala entre sí, pero diferente a la escala de la cinta métrica. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 19, CARACTERIZADO porque las franja con medidas reales de una cinta métrica abarca desde el número cero hasta el quince; la franja central abarca números desde el dos al ciento treinta y ocho, y la franja lateral abarca números desde el cero al ciento cuarenta, donde los números de la franja central están intercalados espacialmente con los de la franja lateral, y donde, la franja con medidas de cinta métrica comienza con el cero a la altura aproximada entre el número ciento dos y ciento cuatro de ambas escalas central y lateral. Método para escalar patrones de prenda de vestir, de acuerdo a la reivindicación 19, CARACTERIZADO porque el escalímetro plano especial comprende una extensión donde la escala de la franja central se extiende hasta el número doscientos ochenta y dos, y la escala de la franja lateral se extiende hasta el número doscientos ochenta. 22 reference (300) of the miniature pattern (200); A first polar line (302) is drawn from the reference point (300) and passing through a first strategic point (400) with the special symbol that identifies the bust measurements, and the line is extended in the same direction until it reaches the tape measure (600) the figure recorded at the strategic point (400) through which it passes, thus locating the projected strategic point (400'); and then the same is repeated with the measurements of the posterior section of the waist and the posterior section of the hip. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that, in stage g), once all the projected strategic points have been traced, said projected strategic points (400') of the projected pattern are joined (200') both from the front and from the back, replicating in real size the shape of the contour (201) of the miniature pattern (200), where the straight sections between vertices are joined with a straight ruler and the curved sections between vertices they are joined with truss-type rules. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 1, CHARACTERIZED in that the special flat scaler comprises three longitudinal stripes with printed metric scales, where the strip on one side edge corresponds to the actual measurements of a tape measure; and the other two stripes, central and lateral, have measurements on the same scale as each other, but different from the scale of the tape measure. Method for scaling clothing patterns, according to claim 19, CHARACTERIZED in that the strip with real measurements of a tape measure ranges from the number zero to fifteen; the central strip covers numbers from two to one hundred and thirty-eight, and the side strip covers numbers from zero to one hundred and forty, where the numbers of the central strip are spatially interspersed with those of the side strip, and where, the strip with Tape measure measurements begin with zero at the approximate height between the number one hundred two and one hundred four on both the central and lateral scales. Method for scaling garment patterns, according to claim 19, CHARACTERIZED in that the special flat scaler comprises an extension where the scale of the central stripe extends up to number two hundred and eighty-two, and the scale of the lateral stripe is extends to the number two hundred and eighty.
23
23
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CL3603-2021 | 2021-12-31 | ||
CL2021003603A CL2021003603A1 (en) | 2021-12-31 | 2021-12-31 | Method for scaling garment patterns, which allows conceiving scaled garments with a fit consistent with the body type of each user |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2023122849A1 true WO2023122849A1 (en) | 2023-07-06 |
Family
ID=81075086
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/CL2022/050147 WO2023122849A1 (en) | 2021-12-31 | 2022-12-30 | Method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to devise scaled garments with a fit matching the body type of each user |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
CL (1) | CL2021003603A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023122849A1 (en) |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3979831A (en) * | 1974-11-22 | 1976-09-14 | Lutz Helene P | Method and apparatus for altering clothing patterns |
US4137634A (en) * | 1976-09-20 | 1979-02-06 | John Klamar | Universal custom fit garment patterns and method of using the same |
US4899448A (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1990-02-13 | Huang Ding S | Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring |
ES2168167A1 (en) * | 1998-11-27 | 2002-06-01 | Lopez Concepcion Amador | Fabrication of a garment pattern consists of selection, for adjustment, of key points corresponding to the size of a medium stature person |
WO2013173137A1 (en) * | 2012-05-17 | 2013-11-21 | Grove Carol S | System and method for drafting garment patterns from photographs and style drawings |
-
2021
- 2021-12-31 CL CL2021003603A patent/CL2021003603A1/en unknown
-
2022
- 2022-12-30 WO PCT/CL2022/050147 patent/WO2023122849A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3979831A (en) * | 1974-11-22 | 1976-09-14 | Lutz Helene P | Method and apparatus for altering clothing patterns |
US4137634A (en) * | 1976-09-20 | 1979-02-06 | John Klamar | Universal custom fit garment patterns and method of using the same |
US4899448A (en) * | 1988-05-16 | 1990-02-13 | Huang Ding S | Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring |
ES2168167A1 (en) * | 1998-11-27 | 2002-06-01 | Lopez Concepcion Amador | Fabrication of a garment pattern consists of selection, for adjustment, of key points corresponding to the size of a medium stature person |
WO2013173137A1 (en) * | 2012-05-17 | 2013-11-21 | Grove Carol S | System and method for drafting garment patterns from photographs and style drawings |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CL2021003603A1 (en) | 2022-03-25 |
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
ES2426332T3 (en) | System and method of construction and dimensioning of bras | |
US8813378B2 (en) | System and method for drafting garment patterns from photographs and style drawings | |
CN102881049A (en) | Anatomical recognition and dimensional analysis to assist breast surgery | |
CN101639349A (en) | Full-automatic measuring method for three-dimensional (3D) manikin | |
US6467180B1 (en) | Measuring tape for determining bra size | |
ES2651151T3 (en) | Anatomical recognition and dimensional analysis of breast volume to assist in breast surgery | |
Handler | Anxiety Indexes in the Draw a Person Test; A Scoring Manual | |
WO2023122849A1 (en) | Method for scaling garment patterns, which makes it possible to devise scaled garments with a fit matching the body type of each user | |
US2231437A (en) | Adjustable pattern | |
KR20180004809A (en) | Suit pattern and measuring device for suit pattern | |
US3911584A (en) | Apparatus for tracing patterns for the garment industry | |
US4104800A (en) | Kit for drafting garment patterns | |
US2922555A (en) | Precision adjustable dress form | |
Abling et al. | Integrating draping, drafting and drawing | |
RU149647U1 (en) | ELASTIC STANDARD FOR CONTACTLESS MEASURING | |
KR102129521B1 (en) | Tape measure | |
US169744A (en) | Improvement in apparatus for drafting tailors patterns | |
US2274054A (en) | Tailor's square, and method for drafting patterns | |
US1158425A (en) | Tailor's rule. | |
CN108765367A (en) | A kind of dressing human dimension determines method and system | |
CN206880150U (en) | Facade vertical locating device | |
CN2430034Y (en) | Multifunction clothes cutting rule | |
CN209933008U (en) | Novel craniocerebral operation positioning device | |
Hofenbitzer | Patternmaking for Fashion | |
ES2680994B1 (en) | Dummy cover and method to design garments in a three-dimensional way with adhesive tape on a mannequin and develop its pattern |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
121 | Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application |
Ref document number: 22912831 Country of ref document: EP Kind code of ref document: A1 |