US2274054A - Tailor's square, and method for drafting patterns - Google Patents

Description

V. FICCIO Feb. 24, 1942.

TAILOR'S SQUARE AND METHOD FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS 4 Sheets-Sheet ,1

Original Filed July 25, 1938 ISIA LVOD IHVNTIR valeniino ficcio ATTOR'II 1 Feb. 24, 1942.

v. Flcclo TAILOR'S SQUARE AND METHOD FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS Original Filed July 25, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 .Emw 5E H.255 $5 372m r8 E83 moHoMo W L Affair! 1 Feb. 24, 1942.

V. FICCIO TAILOR'S SQUARE AND METHOD FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS Original Filed July 25, 1938 l Sheets-Sheet 3 A wLmrL A-r-nR Feb. 24, 1942. v, mew 2,274,054

TAILOR'S SQUARE-AND METHOD FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS Original Filed July 25, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 rival-run I Valentino r iccio ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 24, 1942 TAILORS SQUARE, AND lVIETHOD FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS- Valentino Ficci o, Tampa, Fla.

Substitute for abandoned application Serial'No. 221,044, July 25, 1938. This application August 22, 1941, Serial N0. 407,871

4 Claims.

This invention relates to devices for drafting patterns for mens garments and to a method of simplifying the designing of such patterns by reducing the number of measurements and computations necessary. 7

This application is filed as a substitute for application Serial No. 221,044, filed July 25, 1938, by the present applicant for the identical disclosure. I

In modern tailoring practice, the general arrangement and manner of assembly of the pieces of cloth used for the various garments have been definitely determined by experience, and the exact lengths of certain dimensions are made proportional to certain standard bodilymeasurements, with the addition of certain allowances, as for seams, for bodily posture, and for departures from normal build.

The present system provides a system of transverse and longitudinal coordinate lines which may be directly determined from the various scales imprinted or otherwise formed upon the square herein described and illustrated, the graduations onsuch scales relating to certain measurements, as the girth of the chest, of the waist, and of the hips.

The system as applied to the coat patterns also provides for two fundamental lines, which in cooperation with each other and with the other coordinates, provide the necessaryspace for enlargement at the shoulder blades'or for personal deformity, for corpulency and for over size, and they also determine the slopeof the shoulder and the shape of the gorge.

It is an important object ofthe;present in-' vention to save time and, to simplify the determination of the coordinate lines by placing the graduations at such locations upon the square that a single measurement will give both the proportionate length and the standardallowance.

In thedrawings, Figure 1 is a plan-view'of one side of the square used in drafting coat and vest patterns; Fig. 2 is a planview of the coordinate lines and the corresponding patterns of the piecesfor the front and back of a coat: Fig. 3

is a plan view of the short arm of the square on twice the scale of Fig."1; showing. the portion used for determining the coordinates of pants patterns; Fig. 4 is a, plan view of the coordinate lines and the corresponding patterns for the front and back pieces for a pair of pants; Fig. 5 is a plan view of a fragment of the long arm of the square on the same scale as that of Fig. 3, showing the portion used for laying out the coordinates for sleeve patterns; Fig. 6 is a plan view of the coordinate lines and of the corresponding patterns for the sleeve of a coat; Fig. 7 is a diagram indicating the manner in which the graduations for the depth and width of the sleeve are determined; and Fig. 8 is a plan view of Drafting of the coat pattern It will be observed that all of the scales on the surface of the square shown in Fig. 1 are used for coat and vest patterns. Fig. 2 illustrates the. patterns for the coat of aman of normal proportions and normal attitude, with a breast measure of 36 inches, waist measure of 32 inches,

and seat measure of 38 inches. I

Placing the square upon a sheet of pattern paper with the long arm across the paper and the short arm vertical, the line ,A -G is drawn substantially parallel with one side of the paper and the line A--N is drawnat right angles to the.

On the line A-G, thepointB is marked opposite the graduation 36 on the shoulder and gorge scale; the point C opposite thegraduation 36 on the back notch scale, and the point D opposite the graduation 36v on the scye depth scale. On the line A-N, the point H is marked opposite the graduation 36 on the neck scale, the point I opposite 36 on thefback scale, the point'L opposite 36 on the scye.scale, the point M opposite 36 on theshoulder point. scale, and the .point N opposite 36 on the full breast scale. Sliding the square upon .the sheet of pat ternpaper. to the left to bring the corner to the point I, the point K .is'.marked on the line A-N opposite the arrow designated fundamental line, which is a distance of two inches to the left of point I.

Note that each graduation 36 refers to the breast measure selected for the purpose of this description. The points E, F, and G are independent of the breast measure, and are determined by the location of thewaist line, at E, the seat or hip line, at F, and the bottom of the coat, at G,,th ese measures being made directlywitha tape measure and being dependent on the height of the man for whom the coat is to be made, and upon the length desired for the bottom of the coat, which is a matter of style or preference.

Vertical lines are drawn downward from the points I, K, L, M, and N, and upward at points H and K, and horizontal lines are drawn to the left from points .3, C, D, E, F, and G. A point is located of an inch to the right and of an inch below the point I) where the line drawn to the left from B intersects the line M-n drawn down from N. A straight line LZ is drawn from the point L through the point 0 and a straight line is drawn from the point N to the point P where the line B-b intersects the line M-m drawn downward from M. The intersection of lines 1-2 and N-P is designated as p. A point Q is located at a distance of three inches above K on the vertical fundamental line K-k. A line from Q to A intersects the line drawn upward from H at R. The point S is at the intersection of line 3-2) and the fundamental line K-Ic. The point T is at the intersection of the lines LZ and D-d. Draw the lines C-T, M-S, and R-S. Note that the lines M-S and R-S give the slope of the shoulder.

The point U is at the intersection of the line C-T with the fundamental line K-k. Draw a horizontal line between the vertical lines 1-2 and K-k: from U to a. Mark the point V at A. inch to the left of a and the point V A; inch to the right of V; also mark a similar seam allowance of 4 inch to the left of the point U. The point W is inch to the left of the point I at the intersection of lines 1-2 and B-b. Mark point X on the line 0-0 inch to the left of line 1-2. Mark point Y at the intersection of D-d and M-m. Mark the point Y on the ine LZ a a distan e above T equa to T-Y- Mark point T above T at one-third the distance to Y for the Scye notch where the sleeve seam comes in the Soye. Mark the point Z at 1% inches to the left of the point 0 on the line K-O extended. The line e-d-Z is drawn one inch to the left of the line N-n for the lap of a singlebreasted coat. The point t is placed 1% to the right of the point T to locate the top of the under arm dart.

It is believed that the method of determining the essential points of construction with relation to the established coordinate lines has now been made clear and that those familiar with the art can readily draft the pattern for. the coat as indicated by the drawings.

Draftin of the pants pattern As indicated in Fig. 3 the short arm of the square on the reverse side from that used for the coat and vest patterns is graduated for pants measure either waist 01' seat, with a double scale for width of legs.

A line 25-23 is first drawn lengthwise of a sheet of pattern paper, taking the distance from the point 25 to the point 26 equal to the length desired for the outside seam of the pants, and marking the point 21 at a distance from 25 equal to the length of the inside seam. Also mark a point 28 on the line 25-26 distant from 25 half the length of the inseam plus 1 inches.

Square lines across the paper from 25 to 29.,

21 to 30, 2 a to 3|, and 25 to 3:. Lay the square with the corner at 21 and the edge on the line 21-39, and mark point 33 opposite the graduation on the waist and seat scale correspondto the seat measure of the person for whom the pants are to be made. Move the corner of the square to the point 33 and mark point 34 on the line 21-36 opposite the graduation on the crotch scale corresponding to the seat measure. Square upward from the point 33 to the line 26-29, the distance 26-29 being equal to the distance 21-33. On the line 29-33, mark the point 35 at the same distance from 33 as 33 is from 34, the crotch distance. Draw the line 34-35 and connect its mid-point with the point 33. Mark point 31 at one-third of the distance from 36 to 33. Mark point 38 of an inch up from 35. Draw a curve substantially an arc of a circle through 38, 31, and 34. Mark point 39 of an inch to the right of point 33, and mark the point 48 A, of an inch to the right of point 34. Draw the line 29-39, and connect this line with the point 48 by an are similar to the one through the points 38, 31, and 34. Mark point 4| to the left of 26 at a distance of 1 inches. Mark point 42 midway between 21 and 34. Draw the vertical line 43-44 through the point 42 intersecting the line 28-3! at 45. The distance 21 to 42 is the same as the distance from 25 to 44.

Place the arrow of the width of pants legs scales on the point 45 and measure points 46 and 41 on each side opposite the scale numerals corresponding to the width desired at the knees and similarly, with the same arrow on the point 44, mark the points 48 and 49 on each side opposite the scale numerals indicating the width desired at the bottom of the legs.

Draw a curve from 4| to 21 and substantially straight lines from 21 to 41 and from 41 to 49. Also draw a line from 48 to 46 and from 43 to 48 for one front piece, and for the other front piece, draw a curve from 34 to 46 tangent to the line 48-48. This gives the patterns for the two front pieces,

For the rear pieces, the pattern may be most easily cut by placing a cut-out pattern for the larger front piece on another sheet of pattern paper and marking the lines 26-29, 21-30, 28-3l, and 25-32 horizontally, and the lines 25-26 and 43-44 vertically. Mark point 58 one inch to the right of point 21 and mark point 5| one-half inch to the right of point 41 and point 52 one-half inch to the right of point 49. Similarly, mark points 53 and 54 one-half inch to the left of points 48 and 46 respectively.

The curve through 31 and 34 is extended to point 55 which is measured from 34 a distance equal to half of the distance from 34 to 39 plus A; inch. Mark point 56 midway between points 29 and 43. Place the corner of the square at 56 and mark the point 51 opposite the graduation on the waist and seat scale corresponding with the waist measure. Point 58 is two inches to the right of point 51. A horizontal line to the right from point 38 intersects line 29-39 at 59. Connect 56 with 59.

Place the square with the outer edge of one leg on the line 56-59 and bring the outer edge of the other leg to the point 53. Draw the line 58-68. Square up from point 56 to point 68 and mark point 6| one-half inch below 68. Place one edge of the square on the line 58-68 and the edge of the other leg on the point 4|. Draw the line 62-63 three inches down from 62 to 83. Mark point 64 inch to the left of point 62 on the line 58-68 and connect 63 with 64 to shape the dart. Draw the line 84-64. Draw a curve from 55 to 54 and straight lines from 58 to 50, 58 to 5|, 5| to 52, 52 to 53, and 53 to 54, completing the draft for the rear piece.

Drafting the sleeve pattern As shown in Fig. 5, the long arm of the square on the face opposite that used for the coat is graduated for sleeve proportions.

A sheet of pattern paper is folded in a straight line along its middle approximately parallel with the side edges. Laying the square on the paper with the chest measure graduation of the sleeve width scale at the line of fold of the. paper, mark the point I at the corner of the squareand draw the line l5 down parallel. with the folded edge of the paper. Draw a second line from 6 on the folded edge to the point I. With the corner of the square still at point I, mark point 2 on the line |5 opposite the graduation on the top of sleeve scale representing the breast measurefor the coat and point 3 opposite the corresponding graduation of the sleeve depth scale. With the corner' of the square at I, mark point midway between I and 6, point 8 midway between 6 and 'l, and point 9 midway between 6 and 8. Draw horizontal lines to the left from 2 and 3 and vertical lines downward from 6, 1, 8, and 9. Connect 2 and 1 and from the mid-point I ofthis'line 2-1 draw line Ill-l I, the distance III, II being one-third of the length from I to 2-. Mark the point I2 where the line down from 8 intersects the line left from 2 and mark points l3 and M at distances of an inch above and to the left of I2. Mark point l5 at of an inch to the left of point 2 and point l5 at A of an inch to the left of l5 or one inch from point 2. Mark points Hand l8 at inch to the right and below the point I 6 where the line down from'8 intersects the line left from 3. From the point 19 where the line down from 8 intersects the line left from 3, measure downward to 20 a distance equal to that from 8 to 9, one-eighth of the sleevewidth.

Draw the upper curve through the points2, l I, 1, l3, and 14, to 2|, and the lower curve through the points l5, l1, l8, and 20 to point 2|. At22, where this curve intersects the line down from 9 make a seam allowance of A. inch upward perpendicular to the curve-and from this point 22', draw a curve across to 20. v c From point 22, measure downward ,to 23 a distance equal to the length desired for the sleeve inside. From themid-point of line 2223,. draW a line horizontally to the right to the line l -5, reaching it at 4. At a distance of 1 inches below 23, draw a horizontal line to the right to 5. Place the square with. the, breast measure graduation on the edge of the square in the wrist scale upon the vertical line 6-6" and with the point of the arrow w on the line 56( and move the graduation to the point 23, the line 23"'24 forms the lower end of the sleeve. Connect 2 and 4, and I5 and 4, and draw a curve from 4 to 24. Also draw the curves from 22 to 23 as arcs of circle each distant inch at their centers from the line 22-23. When the pattern is unfolded, the portion for the outside of the sleeve extends outward to the points 22" and 23", and the piece forthe insidewould lie with its corners at I5", 22'', 23", and 24".

Drafting the vest pattern The coordinate lines for the vest are derived from the same side of the square and from the same scales as are those for the coat. The line A-F is first drawn approximately parallel with one side edge of a sheet of pattern paper and the line AN is drawn at right angles to the first line, across the sheet.-

The points B, C,'and D are marked from the scales on the short arm and the points H, I, L, M, and' N are marked from the five scales on the long arm of the square, exactly as was done with the correspondingly lettered lines and points in drafting the coat pattern. The fundamental line at K is located two inches to the left of I and the points Q, R', and S are found as previously set forth. The waist line Ee is the same as that for the coat, but the point F is three inches below the point E. The lines MS and R-S determine the shoulder slopes. On the line M-S extended, the point m is placed 1%. inches to the left of M.

At the mid-point of the line D-d, mark the point a and mark points it and h' each an inch to the right or left of the point a. Draw vertical lines down from h and h to a and a" on the line E- -e. Mark the point 0 half way between E and 7" and the point 0' half way between e and 7'. Mark point d of an inch to the left of point D.

Place the arrow of the vest waist scale on the point 0 and mark points 1) and p equally distant from o opposite the graduations corresponding with the waist measure. Similarly mark the points q, q, on the right and left of the point 0' at the same distances. Mark the point e one inchto the left of q and draw the line de-n'. Connectthe point m with d for a medium top opening or choose a higher or lower point for the style desired.

The tailor always measures the full vest length from the bone on the back of the neck, across the shoulder, and down to the point chosen for the bottom line of the vest. The point A will be at that neck bone in the finished garment, so that the distance A to R, plus the distance m to d is the top opening and the distance A to R plus the distance mde'-n' is the full-vest length plus an allowance of one inch for seams. From n to s is 1 inches and from n to r is 3 inches. Connect r and s. Draw the vertical lines p-f and q-g. Mark points t and t at a distance of inch to the right of left of f respectively. I

Draw the curves from h through q to t on the line Fg, and from h through p to t. Connect s and t. Also connect t with a point 1) one inch above the line F---) and inch to the right of 10. Mark a point 'w on the line L-l at a distance above 1 equal to the distance ML or m"l, and on the horizontal line w-w, mark the point w to the left of w a distance equal to one-third of the distance ml plus /2 an inch. On the line M-S, mark the point m one inch to the left of the line Ll. Onthe line L--Z, mark the point I /2 inch above the point Z. Draw the scye curve from m" through w and Z to it. On the line I1Z', mark point I oneinch above the point 1. On the line R-S, mark the point s' one inch to the right of line I--i. Draw the rear curve from s through i" to h. Connect A with C and draw the line from C through d and p to v, completing the draft.

Graduation 0 the scales vest waist scale, which is based upon the waist measure.

On the short arm of the square, the graduation 24 on the shoulder and gorge scale is 1% inches from the corner of the square and-the graduag and to the tion 64 is four inches fromthe corner. It will be observed that 1 2) is one-sixteenthof 24 and l is one-sixteenth of 64. Each of the equal graduations of the scale thus represents onesixteenth of the breast measure indicated by the numerals.

Each graduation of the back notch scale is at a distance from the corner equal to onetwelfth of the indicated breast measure plus a standard allowance of 1% inches. The scye depth graduations are at a distance from the corner equal to one-sixth of the breast measure plus a standard allowance of 3% inches.

Along the edge of the square, the graduations are in inches, half-inches, quarter-inches, and eighth-inches.

On the long arm of the square, the graduations on the neck scale are at a distance from the corner equal to one-twelfth of the breast measure plus an allowance of %'of an inch.

On the back scale, the graduations are, at a distance from the corner of one-sixth the breast measure plus 1% inches.

The scye scale distance is one-fourth of the breast measure plus an allowance of 5 /2 inches.

The shoulder point graduation distance is one-third of the breast measure plus 5 inches.

The full breast graduation distance is onehalf of the breast measure plus 4 /2 inches.

The vest waist graduations are in two scales spaced equally on opposite sides of the arrow, each graduation being distant from the arrow one-eighth of the indicated waist measure.

On the other face of the square, the crotch scale is graduated to correspond with the seat measure, each graduation being at one-sixteenth of the seat measure from the corner.

The waist and seat scale graduation distance from the corner is one-fourth of the number of inches indicated by the numerals.

The width of legs scales have their graduations equally spaced on each side of the arrow at distances equal to one-fourth of the number of inches indicated by the numerals.

off a line -H, as shown in Fig. 7, on a slope such that the vertical height is to the horizontal distance as five is to twelve, or in other words, at an angle whose tangent is Since the square on the hypotenuse of a right triangle is equal to the sum of the squares on the other two sides, the hypotenuse will be thirteen in length when the base is twelve and the height five. On this line Hi-H, a plurality of points Z ta, 26a, 23a, etc., are laid off at distances from the point ls equal to one-fourth of the distances in inches represented by the corresponding breast measures. These points are projected downward upon the horizontal base line to corresponding points 24b, 26b, 28b, etc. 'A point 12 is marked on the base line at one-half'inch to the right of point 10. From this point 12, the distances to each of the points 24b, 26b, 2813, etc., are laid 01f on the square from the corner to give the graduation points 24, 26, 28, etc., of the sleeve width scale. The graduation distance from the corner is thus V of the breast measure in inches expressed by the numerals upon the scale, minus one-half an inch.

The points 240., 26a, etc., are projected horizontally upon the vertical line HI-I3 to give a aavgose series of points 240, 260, etc., each of which is of the breast measure corresponding to the numerals, above the base line. On the extension of the line 10-13 below the base line are marked the top of sleeve graduations, each distant from the point 10 one-twenty-fourth of the indicated breast measure plus a small allowance of one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch. The

- graduations on the sleeve depth scale are measured from the corner of the square at distances equal to the distances between oints 24 and 240, 26 and 260, 28 and 280, and so on. These graduation distances are thus of the breast measure, plus of the breast measure, plus a small allowance of one-eighth, three-sixteenth, or onefourth inch, according to the looseness of fit desired.

The graduations on the scales of the square and the location of the coordinate lines and points established by its use are based upon the proportions of a man of normal build. A cutter familiar with the art will recognize the simplicity and eificiency of the system disclosed in the present method of drafting patterns as compared with previous systems, and he will observe that by the use of the allowances on certain scales, space is obtained on the pap-er for enlargements and modifications due to corpulency, deformity, or faulty posture, without the overlapping of patterns for the different pieces so frequently met with in other systems.

Since these modifications of the position of the points and lines are obtained by other measurements than those of the normal proportions established by the graduations of the scales of the square, they will be described in detail in the manual of instructions designed to accompany the square, but form no part of the description of the square itself.

I claim:

1. The method of preparing a coat pattern which consists in drawing upon a sheet of material, a vertical side line and a horizontal top line, measuring on the vertical side line distances from its intersection with the top line, corresponding, with space allowances, to the shoulder and gorge depth, the back notch of the scye and the depth of the scye, measuring on the horizontal line distances from its intersection with the vertical side line corresponding, with space allowances, to the neck width, the back width, the scye front, the shoulder point, and the full breast measure, drawing vertical and horizontal coordinate lines from the points so measured, measuring a standard distance from the back width coordinate toward the scye front coordinate to determine a fundamental vertical line, measuring a'point upon the fundamental line at a standard distance above the top line, connecting said point with the intersection of the top and side lines to determine by its intersection width the neck width coordinate the position of the top of the shoulder line, connecting the intersection of the fundamental line with the shoulder depth line to the top of the shoulder line and to the shoulder point measure on the top line to determine the slopes of the shoulder on the back and front pieces respectively, drawing the outlines of the pattern in agreement with the coordinates and cutting the sheet of material along the outlines.

2. In a method of preparing a pattern for a coat, the steps by which the slopes of the shoulder seams are determined, which comprise drawtop line at right angles thereto, drawing vertical coordinate lines parallel with the side line at distances therefrom equal to one-twelfth of the breast measure plus an allowance of three eighths of an inch, one-sixth of the breast measure plus one and five eighths inches, one-sixth of the breast measure plus three and five-eighths inches, one-fourth of the breast measure plus five and one-half inches, one-third of the breast measure plus five andone-half inches, and onehalf of the breast measure plus four and onehalf inches, drawing a horizontal coordinate line parallel with the top line at a distance therefrom equal to one-sixteenth of the breast measure, drawing a line from the meeting point of the top and side lines to a point three inches above the top line on the third vertical coordinate line from the side line and intersecting the first vertical coordinate line at a point above the top line, connecting this point of intersection with the point of intersection of the third vertical coordinate with the horizontal coordinate, and connecting this last-mentioned point of intersection with the point of intersection of the fifth I vertical coordinate with the top line.

3. In a method of drafting a coat pattern as set forth in claim 2, the further step for determining the slope of the gorge which comprises connecting the point of intersection of the top line and the fourth vertical coordinate with a point lying three-quarters of an inch inward and three-quarters of an inch downward from the intersection of the sixthvertical coordinate and the horizontal coordinate.

4. The method of preparing a pattern for a coat for a person having a certain breast measure which comprises drawing upon a sheet of material a side line and a top line at right angles thereto, drawing coordinate lines parallel with the top line at distances therefrom equal to onesixteenth of said breast measure, one-twelfth of the breast measure plus 1 and five-eighths inches,

. and one-sixth of the breast measure plus three of the breast measure plus five and one-half inches, and one-half of the breast measure plus four and one-half inches.

VALENTINO FICCIO.

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