WO2021255260A1 - Composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester de polyglycéryle - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester de polyglycéryle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021255260A1
WO2021255260A1 PCT/EP2021/066659 EP2021066659W WO2021255260A1 WO 2021255260 A1 WO2021255260 A1 WO 2021255260A1 EP 2021066659 W EP2021066659 W EP 2021066659W WO 2021255260 A1 WO2021255260 A1 WO 2021255260A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
fatty acid
esters
carbon atoms
polyglycerol
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PCT/EP2021/066659
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English (en)
Inventor
Bernadette DAVID
Arno WAHLER
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2006447A external-priority patent/FR3111547B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR2006451A external-priority patent/FR3111549B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2021255260A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021255260A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising a polyol and at least one polyglyceryl ester
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising a polyol and at least one specific polyglyceryl ester, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose, and said composition being substantially free of oil, or having a turbidity equal to or greater than 150 NTU, or comprising PEG-100 stearate. It also relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising a polyol, at least one specific polyglyceryl ester, and at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose.
  • the skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles.
  • the skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.
  • the human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis).
  • the epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming a germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.
  • corneal layers or stratum corneum
  • Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.
  • fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggression such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), mechanical actions (friction, shocks, abrasion, surface tearing, projection of dust, particles, shaving or epilation), thermal or climatic unbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic unbalances (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal aggressions of the psychological stress type.
  • irritants detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes
  • mechanical actions frequency, shocks, abrasion, surface tearing, projection of dust, particles, shaving or epilation
  • thermal or climatic unbalances cold, dryness, radiation
  • xenobiotic unbalances undesirable micro-organisms, allergens
  • One of the critical steps in the terminal differentiation process of the stratum corneum is cross-linking of proteic precursors of the cornified envelope. This phenomenon plays an essential role in the development and maintenance of skin cohesion and physical properties of the skin such as the barrier function.
  • the cornified envelope is an essential component of corneocytes.
  • Maturing of the cornified envelope from the deep layers to surface layers of the stratum corneum can be characterized by morphological and biophysical or mechanical parameters.
  • Hydrating agents conventionally used such as moisturizers, hydrating polymers or fatty bodies such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin.
  • These active agents can increase the mechanical suppleness of the stratum corneum, increase its state of hydration and/or improve the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a surface film on the skin. In general, these effects are not remanent in time and only last for a few hours. Furthermore, after the skin has been cleaned, these active agents are eliminated and the effect of increased mechanical suppleness of the skin, improved skin texture or optical properties of the skin disappear.
  • compositions that confer a plumping effect and/or a bouncy appearance on the skin are also a need for compositions that confer a plumping effect and/or a bouncy appearance on the skin.
  • Boncy appearance means an effect of remodelling the skin. The skin is smoother and has a more fleshy appearance, that remains even after pressing on the skin with a finger.
  • the inventors have now discovered that the association of a polyol and at least one polyglyceryl ester can satisfactorily increase the suppleness of the skin and confer a plumping effect and a bouncy appearance on it.
  • the purpose of the present invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising the following in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 10% by weight of at least one polyol. at least one ester chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose, and said composition comprising at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate), or
  • composition does not contain any stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate), then the composition is substantially free of oil, or the composition has a turbidity equal to or greater than 150 NTU.
  • PEG-100 stearate polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units
  • the ester is chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol units, preferably the ester is chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol units.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising the following in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one polyol, at least one ester chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.
  • “Physiologically acceptable” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.
  • Another purpose of this invention is cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to make the skin more supple, particularly the stratum corneum.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 to 18 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the ester is chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol units.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the polyglycerol ester according to the invention results from esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a polyglycerol.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is a mono- or diester, and preferably a mono-ester.
  • polyglycerol designates glyceryl polymers that are linear chains of 2 to 10 glycerol units.
  • esters that are more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C18 carboxylic acid(s), such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, or myristic acids.
  • the carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.
  • they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol by a C10 to C18 carboxylic acid.
  • esters suitable for this invention can be derived from esterification of a polyglycerol by one or several identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri ester, or a mixture thereof.
  • the ester is chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 5 glycerol units, the esters of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns, and the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the ester is chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, and of polyglycerol comprising 5 glycerol units.
  • esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 5 glycerol units is formed (i) from at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 12 carbon atoms (also called C12 fatty acid), and (ii) from 5 glycerol units.
  • the C12 fatty acid is saturated and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 5 glycerol units is polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 5 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-5 monolaurate.
  • esters of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is formed (i) from at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 10 carbon atoms (also called C10 fatty acid), and (ii) from 4 glycerol patterns.
  • the C10 fatty acid is saturated and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C10 fatty acid is capric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 4 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate.
  • esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is formed (i) from at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 12 carbon atoms (also called C12 fatty acid), and (ii) from 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the C12 fatty acid is saturated and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 10 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate or PG-4 caprate is available under the tradename TEGOSOFT PC 41 from the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-5 monolaurate or PG-5 laurate is available under the tradename SUNSOFT A-121 E-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate or PG-10 laurate is available under the tradename DERMOFEEL G 10 L from the company Dr Straetmans.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 6% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one polyol.
  • composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least 10% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total composition weight.
  • polyol means a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least 2 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyols used in this invention can have an average molecular mass by weight of less than or equal to 1000, and preferably between 90 and 500.
  • the polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • This polyol can be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
  • the polyol can be selected from the group composed of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, octane 1 ,2-diol, polyethyleneglycols, particularly having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is glycerine.
  • said polyol(s) is(are) present in a content of 7% to 30% by weight, preferably of 10% to 30% by weight and preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.
  • Polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose
  • composition according to the invention is substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose.
  • “Substantially free” means that the composition comprises less than 0.008% by weight relative to the total weight of the polysaccharide composition comprising rhamnose and/or fucose.
  • the composition is totally free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose, that is, the composition does not contain any polysaccharide of this type.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least on one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate). If the composition does not contain any stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate), then the composition is substantially free of oil, or the composition has a turbidity equal to or greater than 150 NTU.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate).
  • said ester is a monoester.
  • stearic acid and polyethylene glycol including 100 ethylene oxide units let us mention the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture marketed under the tradename Arlacel 165 by Croda.
  • the glyceryl stearate and the polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 will be sourced individually.
  • glyceryl stearate is sold by OLEON under the name RADIASURF 7143 RSPO MB, or by STEARINERIE DUBOIS under the name STEARATE DE GLYCEROL 50/50/MB (DUB GMS 50/50 MB or DUB GMS 50/50), or by ISP under the name CERASYNT SD
  • the polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 is sold by Croda under the name MYRJ S100-PA-(SG) or SP MYRJ S 100 MBAL-PA-(RB)or (SG).
  • the stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 2.5% by weight.
  • the composition does not contain any stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate); in this case the composition is either substantially free of oil (case A) or the composition has a turbidity equal to or greater than 150 NTU (case B).
  • PEG-100 stearate 100 ethylene oxide units
  • the composition does not contain any stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units (PEG-100 stearate).
  • the composition according to the invention is substantially free of oil. “Substantially free” means that the composition comprises less than 0.008% by weight and preferably less than 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil composition. Preferably, the composition is totally free of oil, that is, the composition does not contain any oil.
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase as described below.
  • the composition according to the invention has a turbidity equal to or greater than 150 NTU.
  • NTUs are units for measurement of the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement is made, for example, with a model 21 OOP turbidity meter made by the Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being references AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are made at ambient temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one oily phase.
  • the oily phase preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil.
  • the quantity of oily phase may range for example from 5% to 90%, and preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total composition weight. It can further contain other fats.
  • Oil it should be understood a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x10 5 Pa), not water-miscible.
  • Not miscible it should be understood that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution that comprises only one single phase, in the aforementioned conditions of temperature and pressure. The observation is made with the naked eye or using a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for the purposes of information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to sit, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.
  • oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention mention may be made for example of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol "810", “812" and “818” by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and synthetic esters in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decano
  • silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise other fatty substances in the oily phase.
  • this fatty substance is selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention is neither a “microemulsion” nor a “nanoemulsion.”
  • a microemulsion refers to a single, thermodynamically-stable, isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three components, comprising an oily component, an aqueous component, and a surfactant.
  • a microemulsion also refers to an emulsion having a transparent or translucent appearance due to small particle sizes.
  • the composition according to the invention does not have a dispersed phase with a mean diameter by number equal to 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser granulometry or optical microscopy.
  • the composition according to the second alternative is an emulsion that does not have a single, thermodynamically-stable, isotropic liquid phase and that is neither transparent nor translucent. It has a creamy appearance, particularly that of an opaque creme.
  • the dispersed phase typically contains droplets with a mean diameter by number on the order of one micrometer, measured by laser granulometry or by optical microscopy.
  • the composition comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one polyol, at least one ester chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose, then said composition further comprises an aqueous phase and/or an oily phase.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise an additional surfactant, chosen in particular from the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan, and esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl.
  • the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units is preferably a stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester (20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, PEG-20 to PEG-50).
  • the number of ethylene oxide units can range from 20 to 50, preferably from 35 to 50.
  • a stearate comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units
  • the stearic acid esters comprising 20, 30, 40, or 50 ethylene oxide units, respectively, such as the products marketed under the tradename Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51 , Myrj 52 P (polyethyleneglycol stearate 40 OE; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59 P by CRODA.
  • the stearate comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units can be present in the composition according to the invention with a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 3% by weight.
  • the additional surfactant can also be chosen from the C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters and the C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters.
  • the C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan esters are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain with 16 to 22 carbon chains, with sorbitol.
  • these esters can be chosen from among stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates will be used in preference, and more preferably sorbitan stearates.
  • the C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan ester present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C.
  • sorbitan ester that can be used in the composition according to the invention
  • sorbitan monostearate CFA name: Sorbitan stearate
  • Span 65 V sorbitan tristearate
  • sorbitan monopalmitate CFA name: Sorbitan palmitate
  • Span 80 V sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the tradename Span 80 V
  • sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniquema under the tradename Span 85 V
  • the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.
  • the C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan ester can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 1.5% by weight.
  • the glyceryl and fatty acid ester can be obtained particularly using an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, with 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, with 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glyceryl and fatty acid ester particular mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA name Glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
  • the glyceryl and fatty acid ester used is chosen from among glyceryl stearates.
  • the glyceryl and fatty acid ester can be present in a quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.4% to 3% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.
  • physiologically acceptable means a medium compatible with keratin materials.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous medium comprising water and possibly an organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen for example among linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • an organic solvent soluble in water at 25°C, chosen for example among linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition generally comprises from 4 to 95% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 20 to 90%.
  • the quantity of organic solvent(s) can range for example from 0% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better from 1% to 20% by weight, and even better still from 1 .5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble thickening polymer chosen from:
  • - natural polymers such as derivatives of cellulose such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, carob gum, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan gums, alginates, karaya gum, modified starches, modified or non-modified guar gums and their derivatives such as hydroxypropylguar, or hyaluronic acid salts such as sodium hyaluronate,
  • cellulose such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, carob gum, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan gums, alginates, karaya gum, modified starches, modified or non-modified guar gums and their derivative
  • Hydrophilic clay refers to a clay that is capable of swelling in water: such a clay swells in water and, after hydration, forms a colloidal dispersion.
  • hydrophilic clay let us mention smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, and beidellite.
  • synthetic hectorites such as the products sold by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and particularly sodium, lithium, and magnesium silicates); bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company RHEOX; magnesium and aluminum silicates, particularly hydrated, such as the products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, Veegum HS, Veegum DGT, or calcium silicates and particularly the one in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C;
  • AMPS® acrylamido propane sulfonic
  • copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid/acrylamide for example of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold in particular by SEPPIC,
  • Copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate such as for example the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular the one used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by SEPPIC, or the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular the one used in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by SEPPIC (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);
  • associative polymers and, in particular, associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C16-OE120-C16 by the company ELEMENTIS (marketed under the name RHEOLATE FX1100, a molecule with a urethane function and a weight average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 hav ing a urea function sold by RHEOX, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (ces polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with an alkyl chain at C20 and a urethane bond, sold at 20% active material in water.
  • associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C16-OE120-C16 by the company ELEMENTIS (marketed under the name RHEOLATE FX1100, a molecule with a urethane function and a weight average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205
  • Solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes can also be used in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium.
  • RHEOLATE FX1010, RHEOLATE FX1035 and RHEOLATE 1070, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 27820, and Rheolate 244 sold by ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from RHOM & HAAS, or Borchigel LVV 44 from BORCHERS. - and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic thickening polymer according to the invention is present with a content of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as in particular charges, dyes, UV filters, preservatives, and/or active ingredients.
  • UV filter As a UV filter, mention may be made of organic or mineral UV filters, well known to those skilled in the art.
  • dyes As examples of dyes, let us mention the dyes chosen from water-soluble colorants, powdery dyes such as pigments, nacres, and glitters well know to a person skilled in the art.
  • vitamin A retinol
  • its derivatives including its esters such as retinyl palmitate, vitamin C, and the C- glycoside derivatives.
  • the C-glycosides derivatives may be selected from he compounds with the following general formula:
  • R designates a C 1 -C 4 , in particular C 1 -C 2 , non-substituted linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
  • S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferably a - CH(OH)- group; as well the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical isomers thereof.
  • C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane may advantageously be implemented for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
  • a C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may advantageously consist of hydroxypropyl-tetrahydropyrantriol also called C- beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, supplied in particular in a 30 weight% solution in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40) by CHIMEX under the name MEXORYL SBB®.
  • the salts of the C-glycoside derivatives that are suitable for the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acids, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
  • organic acids salts may include one or several carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group(s). They can consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids can further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention can particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
  • the acceptable solvates for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents.
  • solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • a C-glycoside derivative that is suitable to the invention may be obtained in particular through the synthesis method described in the document W002/051828.
  • composition according to the invention may be contained directly within a container, or indirectly.
  • the composition may be disposed over any suitable medium.
  • this medium is capable of absorbing the composition (impregnated medium), such as a towelette ; a fibrous makeup remover pad, woven or unwoven; a felt; cotton wool; a flocked film; or a sponge.
  • the cosmetic composition according to this invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional components using a conventional method.
  • the composition of the invention comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one polyol, at least one ester chosen from the esters of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and at least one stearic acid and polyethylene glycol ester including 100 ethylene oxide units, said composition being substantially free of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose and/or fucose, it is an emulsion. It typically has a creamy appearance, and corresponds notably to case B above.
  • the turbidity of said compositions according to the invention is at least 150 NTU.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to make the skin more supple, for example the stratum corneum.
  • the softening effect of the skin confers a plumbing effect and/or a rebounded appearance on the latter.
  • the skin is smoother and has a more fleshy appearance, that remains even after pressing on the skin with a finger. This allows obtaining surface effects, in particular on cutaneous microreliefs, in particular smoothing wrinkles and fine lines; and/or hydrating the skin.
  • the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise.
  • Example 1 Preparation of compositions according to the invention and of comparative compositions
  • compositions F1 to F3 according to the invention are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below.
  • compositions F4 to F5 according to the invention and the comparative composition F6 are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below. [Table 2]
  • Example 2 Measurina the in vitro mechanical effect of compositions on skin
  • compositions can be tested for their mechanical elasticity properties with respect to the stratum corneum as follows:
  • a DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis) apparatus sold under the ElectroForce®3100 name by Bose is used. This technique was used to study viscoelastic properties of the stratum corneum. The material was loaded sinusoidally and its deformation was measured. The storage modulus (E’) of the stratum corneum can then be determined, that characterizes it mechanically. This magnitude is directly related to the elastic properties of the stratum corneum.
  • the area of the stratum corneum sample to be tested is 2 cm 2 (1 cm X 2 cm).
  • the samples are first conditioned at 75% relative humidity for at least 12 hours, and the measurement is also taken at 75% relative humidity. 10 mI/cm 2 of each formula to be tested is deposited on the stratum corneum sample. Each formula is spread on the stratum corneum so as to cover the entire surface.
  • the dynamic load amplitude was adjusted to 40 pm, which correspond to a deformation in the elastic range of the stratum corneum (0.2% deformation).
  • Each sample is loaded at a frequency of 1 Hz, along its longest length.
  • Stratum corneum from at least two different donors is used.
  • E2h the variation of the elastic modulus measured with each treated sample during the first two hours of treatment
  • Example 3 In vivo analysis of compositions on skin with the Torquemetre®
  • the Torquemeter ® is a non-invasive device.
  • the measuring head of the DTM is composed by a 20 mm diameter movable central disk and a fixed circular plate. This device is placed on the skin through a fixed concentric double-sided adhesive tape.
  • the angle of rotation of the central disk is measured by an angular sensor with a very high resolution.
  • the central disk pivots. A torsion load equal to an angle Ue is then applied to the skin area between the mobile central disk and the fixed peripheral ring (fast deformation). The rotation angle then continues to rise at a lower speed by an angle Uv.
  • the skin After removing the torsion torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two steps, fast (deformation Ur) and slow back to the origin.
  • the precise measurement zones are identified using a circular-shaped mask.
  • the measured parameters are:
  • Ur tonicity of the skin (immediate return after removal of the stress), and Ur:Ue ratio: Elasticity of the skin (ratio between deformation and immediate return).
  • Formula F1 is effective and improve extensibility of the skin (Ue) for 1 h and 6h.
  • Formula F1 is effective and improve tonicity (Ur) for 1 h and 6h.
  • Formula F1 is effective and improve elasticity of the skin (Ur:Ue) for 1 h and 6h.
  • Formula F4 according to the invention is effective and improves the mechanical properties of the skin at 1 h (extensibility, tonicity, and elasticity) compared to bare skin.
  • Formula F5 according to the invention is effective and improves the mechanical properties of the skin at 1 h (extensibility, tonicity, and elasticity) compared to bare skin.
  • Comparative formula F6 does not improve the mechanical properties after 1 h compared to bare skin.
  • Formula F3 shows a positive impact on extensibility and tonicity after 4h and on elasticity after 1 h as compared to comparative formula F7.
  • Comparative formula F8 is not efficient after 1 h on extensibility, on tonicity after 1 h and 4h, and on elasticity after 1 h.
  • Example 4 Preparation of compositions accordina to the invention
  • compositions C1 to C3 were prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below.
  • Formula C2 causes a decrease in skin extensibility (Ue) compared to C1 .
  • C2 is significantly different from C1 and C3.
  • C2 induces 3.5 times less delayed extensibility than when PG-5 laurate is present (formulas C1 and C3).
  • formulas C1 and C3 are not significantly different from each other, both significantly increase tonicity compared to C2.
  • C4 has an effectiveness that is significantly different from bare skin at T1 h and at T6h.
  • C5 is significantly different from bare skin at T1 h and at T6h for elasticity (Ur:Ue).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester de polyglycéryle, en particulier une composition cosmétique, comprenant les constituants suivants dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : au moins 10 % en poids d'au moins un polyol, au moins un ester choisi parmi les esters d'acide gras comprenant 10 à 18 atomes de carbone et le polyglycérol comprenant 2 à 10 motifs de glycérol, ladite composition étant sensiblement exempte de polysaccharide comprenant du rhamnose et/ou du fucose, et ladite composition comprenant au moins un acide stéarique et un ester de polyéthylène glycol comprenant 100 unités d'oxyde d'éthylène, ou si la composition ne contient pas d'acide stéarique et d'ester de polyéthylène glycol comprenant 100 unités d'oxyde d'éthylène, alors la composition est sensiblement exempte d'huile, ou la composition a une turbidité égale ou supérieure à 150 NTU.
PCT/EP2021/066659 2020-06-19 2021-06-18 Composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester de polyglycéryle WO2021255260A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FRFR2006447 2020-06-19
FR2006447A FR3111547B1 (fr) 2020-06-19 2020-06-19 Composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester polyglycérolé
FR2006451A FR3111549B1 (fr) 2020-06-19 2020-06-19 Composition comprenant un polyol et au moins un ester polyglycérolé
FRFR2006451 2020-06-19

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WO2021255260A1 true WO2021255260A1 (fr) 2021-12-23

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Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
FR2928540A1 (fr) * 2008-03-11 2009-09-18 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un compose d'acide ascorbique
FR3015246A1 (fr) * 2013-12-24 2015-06-26 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une huile, un tensioactif non ionique et un compose c-glycoside
EP2939655A1 (fr) * 2014-04-30 2015-11-04 L'Oréal Composition comprenant des microcapsules contenant des particules réfléchissantes
WO2016091939A1 (fr) * 2014-12-12 2016-06-16 L'oreal Composition comportant de l'hespérétine, une huile, au moins un ester d'acide gras de (poly)glycérol et un polyol
EP3120831A1 (fr) * 2015-07-23 2017-01-25 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Administration topique de compositions cutanées ayant un faible ph
EP3498259A1 (fr) * 2017-04-27 2019-06-19 Yang Sheng Tang (Shanghai) Cosmetic R&D Co., Ltd. Composition de produit cosmétique hydratant

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
FR2928540A1 (fr) * 2008-03-11 2009-09-18 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un compose d'acide ascorbique
FR3015246A1 (fr) * 2013-12-24 2015-06-26 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant une huile, un tensioactif non ionique et un compose c-glycoside
EP2939655A1 (fr) * 2014-04-30 2015-11-04 L'Oréal Composition comprenant des microcapsules contenant des particules réfléchissantes
WO2016091939A1 (fr) * 2014-12-12 2016-06-16 L'oreal Composition comportant de l'hespérétine, une huile, au moins un ester d'acide gras de (poly)glycérol et un polyol
EP3120831A1 (fr) * 2015-07-23 2017-01-25 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Administration topique de compositions cutanées ayant un faible ph
EP3498259A1 (fr) * 2017-04-27 2019-06-19 Yang Sheng Tang (Shanghai) Cosmetic R&D Co., Ltd. Composition de produit cosmétique hydratant

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 11 May 2020 (2020-05-11), ANONYMOUS: "Body Lotion", XP055750319, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 7560837 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 2 April 2020 (2020-04-02), ANONYMOUS: "Master Pact SPF 30 PA++", XP055750324, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 7454871 *

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