WO2019105115A1 - 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法 Download PDF

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WO2019105115A1
WO2019105115A1 PCT/CN2018/106700 CN2018106700W WO2019105115A1 WO 2019105115 A1 WO2019105115 A1 WO 2019105115A1 CN 2018106700 W CN2018106700 W CN 2018106700W WO 2019105115 A1 WO2019105115 A1 WO 2019105115A1
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yarn
fabric
cloth
warm
light
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PCT/CN2018/106700
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English (en)
French (fr)
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俞金林
符爱芬
徐导
姜红飞
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江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2019105115A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019105115A1/zh
Priority to AU2020101076A priority Critical patent/AU2020101076A4/en

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention develops a series of light and warm woven fabrics with gas storage effect, especially suitable for the warmth property of wool fabrics, and belongs to the field of textile design.
  • wool's unique natural curl and surface scale layer make it a wide range of applications.
  • the development of wool fabrics is generally divided into thick and heavy and light and thin.
  • the traditional products are developed to thick and heavy, and the weight per square meter is very high.
  • the use of raw materials is large, and the cost of enterprises is greatly increased; on the other hand, the wearing performance and easy care performance of heavy fabrics are not as good as those of thin and light products.
  • thin and light products do not have excellent thermal insulation properties.
  • the present invention has developed a series of light and warm woven fabrics. This series of fabrics not only greatly reduces the weight, but also makes the raw materials more widely adaptable, meeting the requirements of lightness and warmth.
  • the fabric design adopts the basic structure of plain weave, and uses the additional warp or weft yarn as the floating line on the bottom of the cloth to improve the warmth; using the plain weave structure, using different yarn shrinkage difference to increase the air storage space, spinning The 52s wool worsted yarn was added, and 3% elastic spandex yarn was added during the 48s/2 twisting process to spin the wool elastic yarn.
  • color multifilament yarn it is a kind of fine spinning yarn, which is made up of extremely fine filament color, used as fabric bottom yarn and increased warmth by bristles, and spun into 12.5s warp yarn and 12s color compound weft yarn. And wool roving.
  • the fluffing and raising process produces the velvet plush, so that the fabric is bulky and not exposed on the cloth surface, and the shearing of the cloth close to the cloth surface makes the difference between the surface and the bottom larger.
  • Finishing process rolling water drying - washing - shrinking - piece dyeing - drying - cloth bottoming - cloth shearing - light steaming; rolling water shaping (green steaming) - washing - shrinking - cloth shearing - Cloth raising - dry; predetermined type - boiled - flat washing - piece dyeing (washing) - drying - setting - drying.
  • the invention has the beneficial effects that: by increasing the bulkiness of the fabric, the buckling between the yarns is increased, the structure is bulky and multi-elastic, and the system is further deepened and solidified by post-finishing processing, so that the fabric generates a gas chamber, utilizing The low thermal conductivity of air increases the overall warmth of the fabric and makes the fabric light and thin.
  • the fine-spun worsted yarn is used as the warp yarn and the bulky wool yarn to make the weft yarn, which is made into a plain fabric, and the cloth bottom is processed by raising, so as to provide an extra warm feeling of the variety without increasing the excessive weight.
  • Figure 2 shows that the soft and coarse woven fabric is made of a velvety, unbleached multifilament added to the bottom of the fabric to increase the warmth.
  • Figure 3 uses a combination of worsted yarn and pure wool spandex core yarn to create a gas chamber structure for gas storage.
  • the design structure is: plain weave fabric, 355 roots/10cm dense, and weft 95cm/10cm.
  • Design finishing process rolling water drying - washing it - shrinking - piece dyeing - drying - cloth bottoming - cloth shearing - light steaming.
  • the structure is as shown in the figure, the density is 120/10 cm, and the weft density is 215/10 cm.
  • Yarn structure 12.5 branch / 1, 21.5u ⁇ 23u woollen yarn, weft -12.5 / 1, 21.5u ⁇ 23u wool wool, weft-12 / 1, 23u ⁇ 25u complex yarn .
  • Finishing process rolling water shaping (green steaming) - washing - shrinking - cloth shearing - cloth raising - drying.
  • the structure is as shown in the figure, 205 roots/10 cm in density and 198 pieces/10 cm in weft density.
  • Yarn structure 52s/2, 19.5u wool worsted yarn, 48s/2 (97%), 19.5u, 3% Lycra.
  • Finishing process pre-set type - boiled - flat wash - piece dyeing (washing) - drying - setting - drying.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

公开了一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，该织物设计采用平纹基本结构，并利用附加的经或纬纱作为浮线设于布底，利用平纹地绉纹组织，通过织物结构的设计，采用不同纱线收缩差来增加空气贮存空间，使面料温暖度提高；利用色复纱作织物底纱并通过刷毛增加保暖性；利用弹性纱生产出皱纹面料，其起皱效应取决于湿整理或接近沸点的染色，并利用拉幅定型保留所需变形；在后整理中，利用缩绒、起毛工艺产生顺伏毛绒，使织物膨松而又不显露在布面上。该方法生产出结构膨松、具有存气效应的面料，该面料具有优良保暖效果并具有轻薄风格。

Description

一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法 技术领域
本发明开发了系列具有存气效应的轻而暖梭织织物，尤其适合于羊毛织物的保暖特性的发挥，属于纺织品设计领域。
背景技术
羊毛作为一种具有优良保暖性能的天然纤维，其独特的天然卷曲和表面鳞片层使其具有广泛的应用可能。目前，对毛织物的开发一般分为厚重型和轻薄型，传统产品为了发挥羊毛织物的保暖性则将产品规格向厚重型开发，平方米克重很高。一方面造成了原料使用量大，企业成本增加巨大；另一方面，厚重织物的服用性能及易护理性能均不如轻薄型产品。但轻薄型产品又不具备优良的保暖性能。
发明内容
为了克服轻薄型产品不具有保暖性的特点，满足消费者日益苛刻的服装使用要求，本发明开发了系列轻而暖梭织织物。该系列织物不仅重量大幅减轻，原料使用上也更具广泛适应性，满足了轻薄而温暖的要求。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用的技术方案如下：
1、将细支和粗支羊毛混合，生产膨松面料的纱线，本方案中生产膨松羊仔毛纱，羊仔毛细度为22.1u，纺18s粗纱作纬纱，经纱采用细度18.5u毛条纺96s纱。
2、该类织物设计采用平纹基本结构，并利用附加的经或纬纱作为浮线于布底，使温暖度提高；利用平纹地绉纹组织，采用不同纱线收缩差来增加空气贮存空间，纺制52s羊毛精纺纱，及48s/2并捻过程中加入3％弹性氨纶丝，纺制羊毛弹性纱。
3、利用色复纱，它是一种无捻度的精纺纱，由极细的长丝色复起来，作织物底纱并通过刷毛增加保暖性，纺制成12.5s经纱和12s色复纬纱和羊毛粗纱。
4、利用弹性纱生产出皱纹面料，其起皱效应取决于湿整理或接近沸点的染色，使收缩和织物表面变形达至理想，并利用拉幅定型保留所需变形。
5、通过后整理中缩绒、起毛工艺产生顺伏毛绒，使织物膨松而又不显露在布面上，辅之贴近布面的剪毛，使面、底差异更大，共设计三种整理工艺：轧水烘干-洗呢-缩绒-匹染-烘干-布底起毛-布面剪毛-轻蒸呢；轧水定型(坯蒸)-洗呢-缩绒-布面剪毛-布底起毛-干整；预定型-煮呢-平洗煮-匹染(洗)-烘干-定型-干整。
本发明的有益效果：通过增加织物的膨松感，使纱线之间屈曲增大，结构膨松多弹，并通过后整理加工进一步加深及固封这种体系，使织物产生气室，利用空气的低导热系数提高织物整体的保暖性并使织物具有轻薄化的特征。
附图说明
下面结合附图和实例对本发明进一步说明。
图1以细支精纺毛纱作为经纱和膨松羊仔毛纱做纬纱，做成平纹织物，布底以起毛 加工，以期提供品种额外的温暖感，同时不增加过多重量。
图2该轻柔粗纺织物是利用布底加上的膨松无捻色复纱来增加温暖感的。
图3利用精纺纱和纯毛氨纶包芯纱组合，做出存气的气室结构。
具体实施方式
实例1:
如图1中，设计组织结构：平纹织物，经密355根/10cm、纬密95根/10cm。
设计纱线规格：经纱96s/2羊毛塞洛纺纱(18.5u)，纬纱18s/2羊仔毛粗纺纱(22.1u羊仔毛)。
设计整理流程：轧水烘干-洗呢-缩绒-匹染-烘干-布底起毛-布面剪毛-轻蒸呢。
实例2：
如图2中，组织结构如图，经密120根/10cm、纬密215根/10cm。
纱线结构：经-12.5支/1、21.5u～23u羊毛粗纺纱，纬-12.5支/1、21.5u～23u羊毛粗纺纱，纬-12支/1、23u～25u色复纱线。
整理流程：轧水定型(坯蒸)-洗呢-缩绒-布面剪毛-布底起毛-干整。
实例3：
如图3中，组织结构如图，经密205根/10cm、纬密198根/10cm。
纱线结构：52s/2、19.5u羊毛精纺纱，48s/2(97％)，19.5u、3％莱卡。
整理流程：预定型-煮呢-平洗煮-匹染(洗)-烘干-定型-干整。

Claims (5)

  1. 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，采用精纺纱和粗纺纱相互配合使用，使织物的膨松结构产生了存气效应，织物具有保暖效果和轻薄风格，其特征在于：将细支和粗支羊毛混合生产膨松面料的纱线，本方案中生产膨松羊仔毛纱，其羊仔毛细度为22.1u，纺18s粗纱作纬纱，经纱采用细度18.5u毛条纺96s纱。
  2. 根据权利1所述的一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，其特征在于：该类织物设计采用平纹基本结构，并利用附加的经或纬纱作为浮线于布底，使温暖度提高；利用平纹地绉纹组织，采用不同纱线收缩差来增加空气贮存空间，纺制52s羊毛精纺纱，及48s/2并捻过程中加入3％弹性氨纶丝，纺制羊毛弹性纱。
  3. 根据权利1所述的一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，其特征在于：利用色复纱，它是一种无捻度的精纺纱，由极细的长丝色复起来，作织物底纱并通过刷毛增加保暖性，纺制成12.5s经纱和12s色复纬纱和羊毛粗纱。
  4. 根据权利1所述的一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，其特征在于：利用弹性纱生产出皱纹面料，其起皱效应取决于湿整理或接近沸点的染色，使收缩和织物表面变形达至理想，并利用拉幅定型保留所需变形。
  5. 根据权利1所述的一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法，其特征在于：通过后整理中缩绒、起毛工艺产生顺伏毛绒，使织物膨松而又不显露在布面上，辅之贴近布面的剪毛，使面、底差异更大，共设计三种整理工艺：轧水烘干-洗呢-缩绒-匹染-烘干-布底起毛-布面剪毛-轻蒸呢；轧水定型(坯蒸)-洗呢-缩绒-布面剪毛-布底起毛-干整；预定型-煮呢-平洗煮-匹染(洗)-烘干-定型-干整。
PCT/CN2018/106700 2017-11-30 2018-09-20 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法 WO2019105115A1 (zh)

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CN108914425A (zh) * 2018-07-20 2018-11-30 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种粗支弹性膨松纤维轻柔干爽型织物的生产工艺

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CN105200593A (zh) * 2015-08-25 2015-12-30 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 精粗纺弹力裤料面料的制备工艺
CN205974887U (zh) * 2016-08-15 2017-02-22 桐乡市运盛纺织有限公司 一种轻质保暖弹性织物
CN206204535U (zh) * 2016-11-09 2017-05-31 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种空气层织物
CN206266807U (zh) * 2016-11-16 2017-06-20 东莞市长立纺织科技有限公司 一种具有多层编织结构的纺织物
CN107675332A (zh) * 2017-11-30 2018-02-09 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法

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