WO2019105115A1 - Procédé de production d'un tissu léger et chaud à rétention d'air, tissé à la navette - Google Patents

Procédé de production d'un tissu léger et chaud à rétention d'air, tissé à la navette Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019105115A1
WO2019105115A1 PCT/CN2018/106700 CN2018106700W WO2019105115A1 WO 2019105115 A1 WO2019105115 A1 WO 2019105115A1 CN 2018106700 W CN2018106700 W CN 2018106700W WO 2019105115 A1 WO2019105115 A1 WO 2019105115A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
fabric
cloth
warm
light
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2018/106700
Other languages
English (en)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
俞金林
符爱芬
徐导
姜红飞
Original Assignee
江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 filed Critical 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司
Publication of WO2019105115A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019105115A1/fr
Priority to AU2020101076A priority Critical patent/AU2020101076A4/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention develops a series of light and warm woven fabrics with gas storage effect, especially suitable for the warmth property of wool fabrics, and belongs to the field of textile design.
  • wool's unique natural curl and surface scale layer make it a wide range of applications.
  • the development of wool fabrics is generally divided into thick and heavy and light and thin.
  • the traditional products are developed to thick and heavy, and the weight per square meter is very high.
  • the use of raw materials is large, and the cost of enterprises is greatly increased; on the other hand, the wearing performance and easy care performance of heavy fabrics are not as good as those of thin and light products.
  • thin and light products do not have excellent thermal insulation properties.
  • the present invention has developed a series of light and warm woven fabrics. This series of fabrics not only greatly reduces the weight, but also makes the raw materials more widely adaptable, meeting the requirements of lightness and warmth.
  • the fabric design adopts the basic structure of plain weave, and uses the additional warp or weft yarn as the floating line on the bottom of the cloth to improve the warmth; using the plain weave structure, using different yarn shrinkage difference to increase the air storage space, spinning The 52s wool worsted yarn was added, and 3% elastic spandex yarn was added during the 48s/2 twisting process to spin the wool elastic yarn.
  • color multifilament yarn it is a kind of fine spinning yarn, which is made up of extremely fine filament color, used as fabric bottom yarn and increased warmth by bristles, and spun into 12.5s warp yarn and 12s color compound weft yarn. And wool roving.
  • the fluffing and raising process produces the velvet plush, so that the fabric is bulky and not exposed on the cloth surface, and the shearing of the cloth close to the cloth surface makes the difference between the surface and the bottom larger.
  • Finishing process rolling water drying - washing - shrinking - piece dyeing - drying - cloth bottoming - cloth shearing - light steaming; rolling water shaping (green steaming) - washing - shrinking - cloth shearing - Cloth raising - dry; predetermined type - boiled - flat washing - piece dyeing (washing) - drying - setting - drying.
  • the invention has the beneficial effects that: by increasing the bulkiness of the fabric, the buckling between the yarns is increased, the structure is bulky and multi-elastic, and the system is further deepened and solidified by post-finishing processing, so that the fabric generates a gas chamber, utilizing The low thermal conductivity of air increases the overall warmth of the fabric and makes the fabric light and thin.
  • the fine-spun worsted yarn is used as the warp yarn and the bulky wool yarn to make the weft yarn, which is made into a plain fabric, and the cloth bottom is processed by raising, so as to provide an extra warm feeling of the variety without increasing the excessive weight.
  • Figure 2 shows that the soft and coarse woven fabric is made of a velvety, unbleached multifilament added to the bottom of the fabric to increase the warmth.
  • Figure 3 uses a combination of worsted yarn and pure wool spandex core yarn to create a gas chamber structure for gas storage.
  • the design structure is: plain weave fabric, 355 roots/10cm dense, and weft 95cm/10cm.
  • Design finishing process rolling water drying - washing it - shrinking - piece dyeing - drying - cloth bottoming - cloth shearing - light steaming.
  • the structure is as shown in the figure, the density is 120/10 cm, and the weft density is 215/10 cm.
  • Yarn structure 12.5 branch / 1, 21.5u ⁇ 23u woollen yarn, weft -12.5 / 1, 21.5u ⁇ 23u wool wool, weft-12 / 1, 23u ⁇ 25u complex yarn .
  • Finishing process rolling water shaping (green steaming) - washing - shrinking - cloth shearing - cloth raising - drying.
  • the structure is as shown in the figure, 205 roots/10 cm in density and 198 pieces/10 cm in weft density.
  • Yarn structure 52s/2, 19.5u wool worsted yarn, 48s/2 (97%), 19.5u, 3% Lycra.
  • Finishing process pre-set type - boiled - flat wash - piece dyeing (washing) - drying - setting - drying.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de production d'un tissu léger et chaud à rétention d'air, tissé à la navette, dans la conception duquel est utilisée une structure de base à armure unie, de même qu'une chaîne ou trame supplémentaire est utilisée comme ligne flottante à fixer sur le fond de l'étoffe à l'aide d'une armure crêpée unie. Le procédé consiste, dans la conception de la structure du tissu : à utiliser différents écarts de retrait des fils pour augmenter l'espace de rétention d'air, de façon à augmenter la chaleur de l'étoffe ; à utiliser un fil de couleur multifilaments comme fil de fond du tissu pour augmenter la rétention de chaleur de celui-ci par brossage ; à utiliser un fil élastique pour produire un tissu crêpé dont l'effet de crêpe dépend de l'apprêt humide ou de la teinture proche du point d'ébullition, et à utiliser une mise en forme de rame pour conserver la déformation requise ; à mettre en oeuvre, en cours de post-traitement, un processus de feutrage et de peluchage pour produire une peluche lisse conférant au tissu un effet volumineux mais pas exposé à la surface de l'étoffe. Le procédé de l'invention produit une étoffe qui présente une structure bouffante et un effet de rétention d'air, ladite étoffe étant légère et possédant un excellent pouvoir de rétention de chaleur.
PCT/CN2018/106700 2017-11-30 2018-09-20 Procédé de production d'un tissu léger et chaud à rétention d'air, tissé à la navette WO2019105115A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2020101076A AU2020101076A4 (en) 2017-11-30 2020-06-22 Production method for shuttle-woven air-storing light and warm fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201711232972.3 2017-11-30
CN201711232972.3A CN107675332A (zh) 2017-11-30 2017-11-30 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法

Related Child Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
AU2020101076A Division AU2020101076A4 (en) 2017-11-30 2020-06-22 Production method for shuttle-woven air-storing light and warm fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2019105115A1 true WO2019105115A1 (fr) 2019-06-06

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PCT/CN2018/106700 WO2019105115A1 (fr) 2017-11-30 2018-09-20 Procédé de production d'un tissu léger et chaud à rétention d'air, tissé à la navette

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Country Link
CN (1) CN107675332A (fr)
WO (1) WO2019105115A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107675332A (zh) * 2017-11-30 2018-02-09 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法
CN108914425A (zh) * 2018-07-20 2018-11-30 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种粗支弹性膨松纤维轻柔干爽型织物的生产工艺

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CN205974887U (zh) * 2016-08-15 2017-02-22 桐乡市运盛纺织有限公司 一种轻质保暖弹性织物
CN206204535U (zh) * 2016-11-09 2017-05-31 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种空气层织物
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CN107675332A (zh) * 2017-11-30 2018-02-09 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法

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CN203096314U (zh) * 2013-03-03 2013-07-31 杭州儒燕科技开发有限公司 立体蓬松的粗纺织物
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN201473681U (zh) * 2009-08-20 2010-05-19 宁波中鑫毛纺集团有限公司 一种精经粗纬短顺西服呢面料
CN102851830A (zh) * 2012-06-14 2013-01-02 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 一种精粗结合轻薄弹力呢及生产工艺
JP2015108204A (ja) * 2013-12-05 2015-06-11 東レ株式会社 複合紡績糸からなる織物
CN105200593A (zh) * 2015-08-25 2015-12-30 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 精粗纺弹力裤料面料的制备工艺
CN205974887U (zh) * 2016-08-15 2017-02-22 桐乡市运盛纺织有限公司 一种轻质保暖弹性织物
CN206204535U (zh) * 2016-11-09 2017-05-31 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种空气层织物
CN206266807U (zh) * 2016-11-16 2017-06-20 东莞市长立纺织科技有限公司 一种具有多层编织结构的纺织物
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